6
THE OMAHA
SUNDAY BEE: APRIL 5. 100. C
SLIM EFFECTS IN MEN'S DRESS
Jfo ridded Shonlderi in the Summer
Sack Coat
TEOUSERS NOT TO BE TURNED UP
MarroOT-ho.l4ere4 Mem tat Be la
Style for the First Time j 1-
, Ish Coat Somewhat Shorter
and Verr Simple.
NEW YORK, April l-The styles for
men to be worn during the coming season
promise to be unmerciful to the narrow
shouldered. The plan of padding out the
shoulders to the abnormal width that wss
modish a few years aco has gradually
passed through the reaction Inevitable In
all pronounced fashions. Now the ukase
has gone forth that the high shoulder seam
Is to be the distinguishing novelty of the
summer of 1908 In men's dress.
This means that there will be no slant
to give the effect of breadth of shoulder.
Broad-shouldered men will look narrower,
while those to whom nature has given no
breadth will be shown In their native slim
nesa. It may be said In defining generally the
salient features of the summer's dress that
narrow-shouldered men will for the first
time find themselves In style. Men by
nature very broad Nvill be made to look
mailer from the effect of the high shoul
der si-am.
Bo there will be no reason why the narrow-shouldered
should resort to the pads
which were stylish only a short time ago
and have for years been with some men
an Inevitable feature of their coats.
Filling or padding of any kind will be
very much out of place In clothes, as the
Styles are notably freo from anything that
makes for stiffness. Coats will fit over
the shoulders softly and loosely and the
lapels pressed down to tho front of the
coat will bo seen less tnan they have been
even during the last fow years. All col
lars roll back softly and are a suspicion
narrower than they were.
Sack Coats a Little Shorter.
Back corns, whic h are really the standard
garment for summer wear, will bo a trifle
liortr than they hne been worn, which
Is another contribution to tho general ef
feet of fivedorn and Informality In dress
that all cartful men must seek this sum
mer If they are to be In the latest mode.
There will bu loss shapo Imparted to the
waist, which lb a move in the same dlrec
tlon, while the three seams in the back
will no longer end In open vents.
These vents were the Inevitable result
of tho overlong sack coat which has en
joyed favor for several seasons. In coats
so long some provision had to be made for
the movement of the body, and that could
be supplied only by the deep vents.
There will bo a vent In the center seam
only In tha new coats. There will be no
more strapped minis except on sporting
garments such as Norfolk and shooting
Jackets. The bottom flare on the coat, as
It was technically called, will appear no
more, for which all men of taste ought to
be thankful.
Aa the sack coat will this year be
shorter, the two buttons by which those
most pronouncid In stylo will bo closed
do not seem as striking as they did when
the coats were long. Tho coat is still
cut low enough In the neck to show the
waistcoat. There is little cut away at
the bottom below the second button and
flaps are over the three lower pockets
the change pocket fa Included here while
the handkerchief pocket Is uncovered.
There are aeveral new stunts for finish-
When you see the Bull
Dog what does It mean?
It means that Albert
Cahn sells Shirts.
What kind of Shirts?
Made-to-order Shirts.
Ready MadeShirts in
Soft, Pleated Flannels,
Silks, etc.
What are his prices?
Always the best Shirt
for the least money.
His leader, the best
white pleated Shirt,
cuffs attached or de
tached, at $1.00.
Whv don't he sell a
Colored Shirt for a Dol
lar? :
Because he can't give
you a good one for that
money--for he guaran
tees every Shirt he
sells, no matter if you
buy one Ready-Made
at $1.0, $2 or $250,
or have him make
them at $3.00, $4.00,
or $.00.
ALBERT Will
SHIRT MAKER AND
MEN'S FURNISHER
1322 Farnam St.
pf
lQ22YabhamSL
in the sleeves. One of Ihese baa two
Was bands of the material applied above
the buttons closing the sleeve. Better
style and more In accord with the almplt
city that Is sought In this spring's modes
Is the simple open cuff that closes with
iwo Dutions. in this case there Is no
false cuff, but a real opening, with the
button holes.
Iiouble-Breaated Saek Coats.
The other coat which interests the New
Torker who wants to be well dressed In
summer Is the double breaated sack coat.
which la again taking on some of the
popularity It enjoyed for several seasons.
One of New Tork'a best dressed men left
with Ms tailor a standing order for tout-
teen years that a double breasted blue
serge suit was to be made for him every
spring.
It varied only in respect to the Rise.
Additional Inches had to be considered aa
he grew older and Incidentally broader.
For three years psst ho haa dropped this
Hem from his order.
During that period these coats have been
out of style except for the use of yachts
men: and then they formed part of uni
forms, not suits. This year there Is a
promise of their revival and they are to be
made In such attractive materials that
there seems no reason why they should not
recover their old time popularity.
They are Just aa simple In the style de
clared aa correct for this year as the plain
sack. Three buttons close them on each
side. A cuff with two buttons finishes the
sleeve.
There are no strapped seams and the
cuffs aro finished with the two but
tons. Sometimes to give variety to this
simplicity, which the double breasted coat
can better stand because of Its propor
tions, there Is a band of the material
stitched across the top of a false cuff. In
better style, however. Is the cuff finish.
The lines of the double breasted coat
also follow the figure closely. There Is no
suggestion of additional breadth to tho
shoulders and the high seam shows them
In their real proportions, trying as that
may be to the narrow shouldered, who
would rather be seen brond than stylish.
The principal difference between this
coat and the double breasted coat of
former years seems to Ho In a decided In
dication of the waist line, although It la
not good stylo to cut that too closely.
There should only bo a suggestion of out
line of the figure.
Trousers Have No Caffs.
Trousers are not to be turned up this
summer ns a regular detail of style If the
fashion makers are able to accomplish so
decided a change In an established mode.
What will be easier to Impose on well
dessed men is the noticeable smallness In
tho measurements of the trousers.
They vary from those of last year In
showing more the shape of the leg and
fitting more tightly about the top of tho
boot. Tliey will also be closer at the hips.
Now that turned up trousera have been
declared out of mode the trousers leg
will fall further down over the boot. In
other words, there Is a revulsion against
the habit of wearing trousers pulled up
until it was almost possible to tell what
sort of socks were worn by the men who
sought to be more in the style than any
body else.
Of course the trousers made with the
bottom already turned up and tightly
stitched In place, so that they were not to
be ohnngrd would cause every particular
hair of a fashion designer to stand on end.
They were never worn by well dressed
men.
The waistcoat made with the suit scarcely
counts as a garment In summer. Most
men prefer the fancy waistcoat. Most
suits are made up without the waistcoat.
Those waistcoats that are made up in
the material of the suit follow the style
and cut of the fancy waistcoat and are to
be evert lower this summer than they were
last. The points which end the waistcoat
will be shorter than they were, and in the
case of the few double breasted waist
coat, worn In summer sartorial Inconsls
tency tho points will be shorter still,
Material la Varied.
And what about the material for the
summer suit, whether It be sack coat or
double breasted? There is a choice of
several materials so far as the nature of
the stuff is concerned. About the matter
of color there Is less variety. The profes
sional answer, the answer that would come
from the salesman in the Fifth avenue
shop, the wholesale man that was selling
the cloth, or the designer for the fashions,
would be but one word "gray."
"It may be check, stripe, herringbone,
any dealgn may be traced in the material
but the professional Idea would be that
the color ought to be gray, light, dark or
medium, but gray. One of the large ready
made housea In New Tork, which charge
as much for Its suits aa some of the cus
tom tailors, ' rarely . makes up any other
color In summer. Patrons who apply for
something else are told that gray is the
color for summer. To go upstairs and
order something else and pay nearly double
is the only other way of getting a brown.
for Instance, In that shop.
There are ,grey worsteds In soft finish
combined with stripes In red, green, blue,
and black, no thicker either and no more
striking to the eye than thin threads of
the same color lying on the light back
ground. Then there are checks outlined
In the same colors. Sometimes that pat
tern Is shown by thicker stripes, and they
Impart more color to the goods, which are
in a gray so light as to seem cream colored
or ao dark and slatelike in tone aa to be
almost black.
Worsted, Cheviot, Serge and FbascL
The soft finished worsteds are better
adapted to summer wear, as they do not
show the dust nor do they later show the
spots which come when water falls on this
same dust. The hard finished cheviots for
dark blue double breasted suits are per
haps the thinnest of all materials for sum
mer wear and are a temptation to the
purchaser. But like the serges In such
smooth finish, they seem to spot of them
selves.
There are other tones than those of gray.
and it is to these that the careful dresser
will be likely to turn, not alone to dis
tinguish himself from what the majority
of the world may be wearing, but alp to
una me exquisite combinations of color
so tastefully and yet so ostentatiously pre
semen in the flannels. The burnt onion
skin brown with Its lighter shades Is less
popular than It was. There are browns as
oar and rich as chocolate, with strlpts
of mauve, purple, dark blue and green.
inese stripes are not conspicuous enough
to
auraci attention, and Indeed almost
oui lor a second Inspection. Then
there are the browns approximating the
shades of tobacco which have the relief
of Stripes of white and blue or green and
white or blue and white combined Into a
single stripe. There are dark graya almost
black with brown and dark green flannels
with stripes of gray -and brewn. In the
blues there are atripea of green and of
while and black combined.
There la In these summer flannels one
pattern that always resppears. Nothing
prettier has ever been devised nor has
there ever been anything smarter, especi
ally for wear with a double breasted coat
Thia la the rather highly colored navy
blue with the stripe of white and black
placed at intervals of an inch and a half
apart It is In the market again this year
and will be always so long as men wear
flannel
KNOCK ON THE ALDRICII BILL
Fall Text of Protest Made by the
Chicago Bankers.
OMAHA MEN MORE INTERESTED
Receive Copies of Resolutions Con
demning; the Measure and Eater
Into Further Discussion
of Subject.
Brnkers of Omaha, have received copies
of the resolutions passed by representatives
of the national banks of Chicago, In whldh
the Aldrlch "bill," passed by the senate,
la severely condemned. There has bem
much discussion of the Aldrich and Fowler
bills by Omaha bankers and the receipt
of the resolutions of Chicago bankers haa
opened the subject for more discussion.
Both the Real Estate exchange" and the
Commercial club of Omaha spent hours
discussing the bills and the Commercial
club listened to J. It. Bush, president of
the New York Merchants' association, who
analysed the bills In detail.
The resolutions adopted by the Chicago
bankers are as follows:
Whereas, The Aldrlch bill ss It, hss
passed the senate contains provisions,
adopted in the last hours of Its considera
tion by that body, which are revolutionary
In their effect upon national banks, and
seriously curtail their ability to extend
accommodations to the business public. It
appears to us .-not only proper for bankers
to call attention to the facta, but their duty
to do so, and,
Whereas, The Aldrlch bill changes the
legal reserve requirments of the national
banking act which have stood for forty
years, so that nearly I3OO.O0O.UOO of lawfu
money, or about one-sixth of the lawful
money holdings of the national banks, must
be withdrawn from loanable use and locked
up In vaults or Invested In certain specified
bonds; therefore, be it resolved:
1. That the transfer of this money from
the liquid reserves of the banks, where it
is available for loans, to an Idle fund,
which the banks are forbidden under any
circumstances to encroach upon, will seri
ously Impair the working capital of the
country. It Is not merely a transfer of
money from reserve cities to other locali
ties, but a definite withdrawal of money
from use as a basis of bank credits. The
total lawful money holdings of all the na
tional banks on December 3. 1W7, according
te the statements of that date to the comp
troller of the currency, was $1.045,7.n, on
the basis of which the banks had outstand
ing loans of S4.685.337.09t. If the available
cash In their vaulta at that time had been
reduced as proposed bv the Aldrlch bill,
1 1, a hmVi would have been obliged to con-
trsct their1 loana by approximately $1,000,
000.000. We aubmlt that such a reduction
In the loaning power of the nanus concerns
the business community quite ss much as
H th hunks. It means restricted ac
commodations to the business men, higher
Interest rates upon commercial loans, and a
permanent burden upon me country m mc
form of returns upon idle capital, the sys
tem of reserves In this country being al
ready more costly than that of any other
oountry. , . . .. ,.u
That th. true method of dealing with
commercial crises, which come once in ten
or twenty years, and of meeting all unusual
demands upon the hunks, is by providing
means Tor readily lru'renring um w'J
currency when It Is needed rather than by
locking up continuously and permanently
an unnecessary proportion ui .uu.iw, -
banking capital. m , .
Tk. th anhvtl tut ion of bonds in
the vaults of country banks for balances
in the reserve and central reserve c'tlei
will not promote safety. The ability to
draw exchange on the principal cities or
the country Is an available resource even
in time of panic. It supplies the common
means or payment oeiween tuunuu n,
and during the recent panic as mucn au-
flculty was experleneea in malum"""
these balances as In maintaining cash re
serves. On the other hand, as there la no
ossenti&l difference between them and
other Profit-earning bank investments.
bonds cannot be properly counted as a
cash reserve. If the design is 10 use mem
In an emergency as a basis for circulat
ing notes under the Aldrlch bill. It can
not De aone wunoui impairing mo
raurvra at a time when the banks can
least afford such Impairment, for bank
notes very properly are not counted in
legal reserves. An Investment In bonds
la outside the field of commercial bank
ing and reduces the power of tho banks
to make commercial loans.
4. There is no objection to the pro
hibition of loans to bank officers, but
there le serious objection to such prohibi
tion against directors and companies In
which directors are Interested. The courts
have repeatedly defined the word "securi
ties" aa used in section 11 of the Aldrlch
bill to Include promissory notes and bills
of exchange (25 Am. & Eng. Ency. L.,
180; Bank of Commerce against Hart, 37
Nebraska, 202; Jennings against liavls.
SI Conn., 139; Duncan against Md. Ha v.
inst. Maryland, Jim; Wlnward against
Lincoln, 23 H. I. 476; Wagner against
Scherer, 85 New York 8upp., 894, and
others) and this Interpretation would
practically prohibit a bank from doing
Dusiness Willi any company or which
of its directors were officers or directors.
The effect would be to deprive the banks
of the very men In each community who
by ahllJty. experience and knowledge of
credits and business conditions are best
quaiuiea to serve in this advisory capac
ity. Bank directors are not salaried offl
cers; they are principally engaged In
otner lines or business, and they cannot
afford to sacrifice the right to borrow
money in order to serve on bank boards
The banks will not be strengthened by
iiiiuiiiiH me selection or tneir directors t.
men who have no active business connec.
noun. i nis section snouid also be so
amended as to Dermlt a national hnW to
own stock in an allied corporation which
owns ins ouiiuing in which the bank
situated. It Is desirable for a bank to
" a permanent nonie, and In the larg
cities where the recti,.n e i.i.T.
orriee bulldtnar involves a Vinw n.oiuv
mere snouid be no objection to ilinvinu
s eapiiBi to De supplied by
. u am, mux me oaiiK to con
wv Buiu aiueu corporation.
o. inai tnese restrictions will affect
the Institutions of the national banking
unfavorably in their competition
mi, . , 1 mo v trill L II
tn tVL. 1 .nave. "'ready moe latitude
In the character of business they are al
lowed to do. and in mnut nr ti, ......
the requirements unon ihm ... .
. la.. 1, ... .u . . . . i rr
ut? Te obliged to conform. Keg!
ulations. which make it impossible for
nytl,,nl .""""" i"e
i,at " the Aldrlch bill is avowedly
measure for lnmn
brirt .,! . um.y- l
.., i " twuipieiiennive and rinal
system Is determined unon. no rh.n.J i
ri7r?h JlnS y,e which will seriously
disturb Dreaent nm.1 iti.,. i . L 7 '
ri.,. , . . f oe ln-
X ;r .. Prv""on8. -rue regu atlona
,i.ile nUo"J banking system as to the
jeserves against deposits have stood since
J..J,yVem. w," tblished. the business
of the banks is adiuateil to ti,... ...J T .,"
credits of the country are adjusted to
them. At the date of the last statement
iuui.u uaiiKi, rcDruary 14, 19t.
ilLr,' ;i7,lu" r" amounted to
1189,087.751. Ihis msrgln. which Is the basis
of business recovery 1(i expansion, would
,mre than ,W'P1 out by the proposed
legislation, and If the banks must srenare
to do business under the proposed regula
tions after January 1. 19 thero nan
expansion of loans meantime, even for
crop-moving purposes next fall, but further
liquidation will be required and serious
vuiiueiitn may ensue, we respectfully
urge that a temoorarv maan .h..,,H n
contain harmful Innovations, which. In a
final treatment of the subject, may prove
,. . """-'"' r. "no uniess tney can be
eliminated It will be better to have no
legislation until the whole subject can be
" commission for Inquiry and
report, which we believe would be the
most practical disposition of It.
Resolved, Further. Thst a com f K...
resolutions be forwarded tn tha nr.i-.T
of -lie I nlted States, the vice president
of the 1 nlted States, the speake? of the
house of representatives, and each member
of the senate and house of reoreaenta.
lives.
Banks signing the resolutions were:
Bankers National Bank, by J. C. Craft
ice president; Commercial National' bank.'
by George E. Roberts, president; Conti
nental National bank, by George M. Rey.
noma, president; rn Exchange National
bank, by D. A. Moulton, vice president-
Drovers Deposit National bank, by William
A. Ttlden, president; First National bank
by James B. Forgan, president; First Na
tional bank of Englewood, by J. J. Nich
ols, president; Fort Dearborn National
bank, by I A. Qoddard, president; Ham-,
....... .,. i uo Duffinesa at a profit
In competition with banks organlseS un
der stale laws, will Inevitably weaken the
national system In membershin Srt nrVi!
use, en end wnh
li il
1 WOW Hsms i
III ll
Guaranteed to "Stay
FRANK WILCOX,
is
llton National bank, by Charles B. Pike,
president; Monroe National bank, by K. W.
Harden, vice president; National Bank of
the Hepubllc, by W. T. Fenton. vice pres
ident; National City bank, by David K.
Forgan, prealdent; Live Stock Exchange
National bank, by 8. R. Flynn, prsident;
National Produce bank, by R. N. Ballou,
ashler; Oakland National bank, by li. C.
t
S0RQSII
The New
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'The Smartest, Best Fitting, Best
On" without discomfort Made in all
Black, Brown and Copper Ton
Manager
WHEN a country becomes civilized it
demands typewriters. When it becomes
posted on comparative values it demands
The fact that the Smith Premier Typewriter
used in every civilized country on the globe is
not so important as the further fact that the
demand increases year after year.
The reputation of the Smith Premier is
world-wide. World-wide use has made it so.
THE SMITH PREMIER TYPEWRITER COMPANY
SYRACUSE, N. Y.
Branches Everywhere
M. O. PLOWMAN, Manager, OMAHA OFFICE
Cor. 17th and Farnam Streets, Omaha
Foster, president; Prairie National bank,
by George Woodland, president.
llallstoare una Caterpillars.
An army of 3uO.00O.0u0 caterpillars has ap
peared In the Krugersdorp district of South
Africa, which recently suffered severely
from a hailstorm.
Old colonists connect the visitation with
tha recant fall of bail, and tby recall In
Creation
OF -
Looking Low Shoes Ever
203 Scutl.
stances where plagues of Inserts hsve in
variably followed a phenomenal storm.
II is suKgeatrd that the stones carry some
germ whUh Is launched Into llfu when the
melting process begins, and farmers who
have penetrated deeply Into the mysteries
oi the veldt trace tho puriodlcal visitation
of huge swarms of butterflies and muliis,
and even of the dreaded tick, to the evolu
tion of a germ In the hailstone deposited
on the ground
Venerable Free Slaters bow resident In
Made."
Fashionable Leathers.
IStrt Street
the district have vivid memories of fright-
vaaate'rt ih- ,""r rP" Plaguea de
crP n the conquered terri
tory, and they also recall the Interesting
-iihS Wn th bUt" Insect. ied
the locusts disappeared Rhodesia Herald.
Uy using the varloua department of Tha
Bee Want Ad Ptgea you get quick return
at a small expense,