Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, April 05, 1908, HOME SECTION, Page 3, Image 27

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    New Bodices Out of Old
n on ori
1
ill
i
U
HE display of 'scr-porles In-
TT 1 tended for the ornamenting of
S I the bodice In umiaiiall lam
and varied this spring, and th
Ingenious woman should be able
to freshen almost any old frock
not too hopelnnsly out of date wltht.he aid
ef. Mm one ot theao ready made yokes
r frills or collar or waistcoats. .
One sees comparatively few of the dainty
bolero once so popular among laca and
rabroldery noveltlea of this class, but
occasionally a charming thing of this sort
la offered In lace, embroidered lingeries
Of embroidered net. More numerous are
tho deep yokes or combined yoke and
bertha effects and the collars, which vary
hihj:i qmi ronar or em-
They are delectable little affairs, these
r-ntly to wear waistcoats, much more at
tractive, many of them, than anything in
the same line which an ordinary tailor or
dressmaker would be likely to achieve, and
though at their beat they are somewhat
expensive, they will often give cachet to
the simplest of street frocks.
Dressmakers returning from abroad
brought bark such walstcoata for separate
sale or for use In costumes of their own
making, and we have seen some most at
tractive collections of the kind. One im
porter showed a number of fascinating
walstcoata In heavy, soft taffeta, covered
all over with soft dull Persian designs In
charming colorings.
These were absolutely plain, mannish,
fcrotdered batiste or Irish lace to rt.n "'"""ly tailored, clone fitting, their smart
nees depending upon the beauty of the de
sign and coloring In the silk and the per-
wJ' Wr 'lift
Xvmmw- ;. ... mnwk
M I J 'ry'A I t'r -2,, f.."7- It
I
l S "n ins
LACE COLLAR
AND CTt A VATS,
a flow nit rcn
BILK VEST AND
OTHER DRESS
ACCESSORIES.
Iff I
oddly-shaped col-j
lars falling well
over the shoulders
and sometimes sug
gesting loose bolero
lines.
There are, too,
many arrange
ments of embroid
ered lingerie and
lace, embroidered
net, etc., which are
draped In folds from
houlder to waist line, leaving a V shaped
opening In front or ar cut In this fichu or
pelerine shape without the folds and lav
ishly embroidered. Cut in one with this
overdrapery. Jumper, pelerine, or whatever
one chooses to call it, are wide folds run
ning around from shoulder seam to under
arm seam and defining a large armhole of
modified Japanese description so common ,
during racent months.
These overbodlea or garnitures are ad
Justed over simple sheer blouses, and simi
lar crosses 'twlxt pelerine and coatee are
offered In taffeta embroidered handsomely ect cut nJ finish of the garment The
In silks or in soutache. ony hint of ornamentation was In the but
Such embroidered net garnitures as the onB whlch were in each case of colored
one sketched here, with bold embroidery crTstal, Imitating eeml-preclous stones and
design In high relief and exquisite colorings, match'nK the color most prominent in the
furnish superb trimming for a bodice other- illt w,th wn,ch the1 button was used.
Wise simple. The chief difficulty about the "With a plain tailored frock ot dark or
use of such trimming is that there are or- neutral tone, such a waistcoat would be
dinarily no accompanying motifs to be used "tremely chic. On similar lines there are
elsewhere upon the frock, and It la not al- walstcoata of tolle de Jouy, the various
" ways easy to design a successful frock ant'que cotton ejects and beautiful old
which has no other touch of embroidery; Drocalea.
than the corsage trimming. Plainly cut and fitted waistcoats of pon
Tho dressmakers get around this diffl- tree in natural tone or soft dull color are
cultjr by leaving a very slight amount ot made up with no trimming beyond binding
hand embroidery to match 'the garniture and buttons of black liberty, or are beau
done especially for the frock and Intro- titled by hand embroidery, sometimes al
duoed in sleeve finish or wherever It Is most solidly covering ths surface of the
meet necessary. The beauty of the color- llk One very stunning waistcoat of man
ings In the French embroidery design ex- "ish tlnes waa formed by alternating stripes
eel that of our domestio efforts and par- of black liberty and Chinese embroidery
tloularly lovely effects are obtained la the ,n tn Chinese blues on dull blue pongee,
biscuit browns and peacock blues and the 171,6 atrlped pongees and linens are also
biscuit and white wine shades with white UP lnto waistcoats, and for dressy
or color. open coats are short elaborate little waist
Embroidered rajah, tusaor and light ooat" of Mn hand "roldcred ' rh
weight pongees are well represented In the brocade wlth tohes of gold among the
Imported corsage trimmings, appearing in coiota So very attractive waistcoats of
inmhio f - k.-., , flowered silk in soft colorings and blurred
.--... W. MM W WIW.V, W b 1 1 U,
lara. eta.
Irish lace as usual plays an Important
part In the exhibit of collars, yokes and
coats, and one may find any sort ot acces
sory from the plain standing collar and
bow or rabat to the coatee In this popular
laoe. The continued vogue of the becom
ing white gulmpe has brought out a host
of these in all shapes and sixes and com
binations ot material.
design are a specialty in one shop and are
accompanied by chemisettes and Jabots of
fine net or lace. One of these is. illus
trated among the sketches.
Apropos of frills and Jabots, we are evi
dently to have a season of extravagance
in such matters, for among the imported
neckwear come many huge bows and frills
of fine net with hemstitched, embroidered
or lace bordered edges, snd there are de-
Many of them ar so finished that they tehed by tleJ wlth ,alted ndt of th
may be applied outside a blouse or bodice um, t(n, npti mor, or ,e on tne ordor o(
as a yoko or used as a gulmpe. and there the ampUs anown here.
,ara many collar, gulmpe and chemlaette 0f gulmpes with sheer sleeves attached
arrangements of lingerie and lace which there is no end, and these are offered in
would fill In charmingly the open coat greater daintiness than usual. In one
fronts or the V-shaped opening of a bodice fashionable dressmaking establishment we
draped from shoulder to girdle. navs ,een uch fulmpet m3lie entirely of
The genuine waistcoat must not be for- fine point desprlt net. tucked. The collar
gotten in any discussion of coat and bodice was of the high, shaped type now so modish
accessories, for it has a conspicuous place and the sleeves were of the tucked net
among- the season's novelties, and though fitting the arm almost snugly and long.
' word comes from exclusive Parisian reaching down well over" the hand,
sources that the waistcoat Is not so high These models were, however, made to
in favor with the Parisian eleganto as it order In Paris, and the dressmaker is
was last season, there is no shadow of copying them for her customer, not only
doubt about Its popularity. The popularity in net. but In mousseline de sole of colors
of a mod always comes in its second sea- matching Jumper frocks and with only the
son." when ths few who have launched it shallowest little yoke and collar of sheer
have already tired ot it. cream lace for relief at the throat.
What the Women Are Doing
Factory Work and Domestic Service.
NK of the chief reaao.la why
Ol the average working fcirl pro
I ftra the workshop or the ato.e
lu uuiueaiio anvil la mai in
the latter she is pestered by
"unskilled Interference." At
least that Is the conclusion reached by
Mia Elizabeth McCrackcn, who elves her
views on the subject in the Outlook,
after interviewing a large number of fac
tory girls and domestic servants.
"I gave It up," one girl who had done
general housework told Miss UcCracken,
"because I got tired of being bossod by
people who didn't know how to do the
Job themselves."
'The foreman or forewoman tells us '
what to do," said one factory girl, "but
thfcy know."
Many of the girls who had tried do
viestlo service admitted that they bad en
countered employers who had some knowlr
edge of domestic science and art. "They
knew about it In a way." one qualified.
"But you see they all knew it 'lifreiit,
and I knew It dlfrent, too. In the fac
tory everybody know the Job the same. '
Asked whether she would prefer house
hold service 4o factory work if ah could
do the housework the way she kirew it. she
said promptly, "Yes, but J nover saw a
woman as would let me."
One woman to whom, this story was re
peated, a woman who had been a house
keeper for many years snd employed
servants, said, stiffly, that that rflrl ex
pected too much. "Servants are paid to
do as they are told in our houses," sh
observed. -
But are they? Or, if they are, should
they toe? Miss UcCracken demands. Peo
ple do not stand over the plumber and tell
him how to mend the plpea. They do
not solact th carpenter's nails when he
comes t ut up a shelf aad Insist oa his
TmPT1 TP! ITT
y J J. sULaUaLLvy
JI qJJ
dkr vi V--ff JL1 Li jJL LX
smL
QJJ
:j Tho Most Artistic Furnishings Designed for tho Modern Homo
A COMPLETE showing of everything to furnish and. beautify the home a showing of new
IX goods that clearly reflect the best efforts of the master designer and the most able craftsmen of
the country. A courteous invitation is extended to every reader l this announcement to visit
this store now so beautiful and attractive, so fresh and bright with its new Spring attire Z and
view our magnificent Spring displays.
With a thorough commercial organization deeply rooted in the largest cities of the United States with twenty-two great stores to buy goods for with the
greatest purchasing power of any home-furnishing concern on earth we can AND DO undersell EVERY OTHER CONCERN in the business. There's not a
store in Omaha that can equal our prices not one.
"We'll save you from 25 to 40 on every purchase you make here this Spring wo guarantee it.
ML.
AY
J&IS53Z33SW
wmm
SOLID OAK -,50
SIDEBOARD s2
i
loll.
I ' ,
OAK
QUARTER
This magnificent quarter-sawed
oak Sideboard is beautifully
carved and of superior workman
aliip throughout. It I fitted with
lartfo French plate, beveled
ed i? 9 mirror. Lined drawer for
silverware and large linen drawer.
An exceptional value.
CHINA
CLOSET
.75
It Is made of heavy quart
ered oak, is of handsome bent
end design, has neatly carved
top, shelves grooved for stand
ing plates. It I easily worth
double the prloe ssked.
: hUM
ilteM ; iff
SEL5RUOS, 12x9 FEET... ,
These Rugs are of the highest quality, made without miter
seams. - They are of exceptional durability the patterns mesi
handsome and the colorings the non-fadable character. This 1
without exception the one best rug value the Hartman Cuncara have
ever offered, to the people of this city.
THIS SOLID OAK
Upholstered R.ocker
GUARANTEED
NANTUCKET
LEATHER '
U j fam)
In all your experience have you ever seen such a
thoroughly high grade Kocker sold at such a ridiculous
ly low price? This Rocker Is made of solid oak. massive
frame, beautifully carved. The back and seat are up
holstered in guaranteed Nantucket Leather which has
tha wearing quality of genuine leather. Has beBt oil
tempered steel springs. Wide spacious seat, broad
back. It Is a splendid Rocker an extraordinary
value- world beater at the price.
k .y..-.
f
lit i! u!" ..Lsr.fftiK-JKWs. 1
3-Drawor Chlf.
aJ
fonlT, Solid Oak
The above price is remark
able low for such a thoroughly
well made article of furniture.
Genuine solid oak throughout,
smoothly finished. Five large
roomy drawers. It Is of un
equal value.
SOLID OAK
DKESSKK
This is positively the most ex
traordinary Iiresser value we
were ever able to offer. Tt is
extra well made and beautifully
polished. Has extra large mirror
and solid brass cast drawer
pulls.
3".
r? " rrrr "'T"5 ?TTi i .'U
HAHTrtAYS SPECIAL. VELVET
RVO. 9x12 FEET
22M
Another remarkable Rug value. These Wilton Velvet Ru? ar
woven of the finest yarns which are specially treated, li'ert-ljy
bringing out to the fullest extent the beauty and richness of the
exquisite coloring and design. We. show the greatest assortment
ever gotten together of these Rusts one cannot fail to bo pleased
with them. Special in 8x12 size.
Hartman's Credit Ser
vice is Confidential,
Pleasant and Refined.
H ARDWOOD Qk.75
KEFRIGERATOKS
Handsomo Iran
Dads
7
.65
The
These Beds ais
made of heavy tub
ing and extra large
joints and chills
Thev arn onnmoloii
I in various colors.
The price quoted In
60 under value
beds are on sale this week.
Pedastal - IJ "
Extent i i VjL
Table. . . StSH
ALL DELIVERIES
MADE IN UN
LETTERED WAGONS.
'This is a remarkable small aniou.it, of money
for such a large well made extension table. It's
made of selected material, and Is brilliantly pol
ished. Extends to six feet. Has extra large base.
These Refrigerators are unusually well
made, has double walls which are filled
with charcoal, conatructed of hardwood
throughout and beautifully finished In rich
KOlden ouk. They are galvanized Iron
lined, and have all the modern hygienic ap
pliances.
Tf m To)
GREAT STORES THROUGHOUT THE U. S.
v
aSssalJbtwI I
XIHCM
i 7J V
14144416-1418 DOUGLAS ST.
fAIIu)inil
THE ALLWIN C .65
GO-CART AT e!J
This Is'the famous Allwln Oo-Cart. the
lightest and strongest collapsible cart made.
The wheels double under as shown In the
above illustration. Can be opened and
closed with one hand. Has heavy rubber
tire, wheels are all steel and double steel
forks of sufficient strength to carry 600
pounds. "V'ou cannot duplicate this value
elsewhere in Omaha.
driving them some particular way. To
bs sure, these workmen are not ;ontinu
ous employes, but If the continuous em
ployes, the domestic servants, were treated
a little more as these workmen are
treated, let alone to plan their work and
do it their own way the work to be
judged by the results would not that go
a long way toward solving the "domestio
problem?"
Kves Your Child from Fear.
"People of varloua sects ami beliefs sre
beginning of late to say that fear is the
devil. No matter how trite the saying may
beeonie as mortals wake up to it, it will
never cease to be true; and how that devil
robs the children! From the moment of
the average child's firvt fall, when the
mother crk-s out and Ticks him up wltu
such manner and words that he screams
wltt) terror, the instilling ot fear goes on.
The average child begins by being care
free, but the average loving mother un
dermines that confidence with the most
earnest Industry. The forbidden fruit of the
tree of knowledge Is forced upon the child
until his naturally erect, fearless mental
carriage gradually becomes distorted, and
he stoops and bows to the inevitable." So
writes Clara Louisa Burnham in the April
AppU-ton's.
' "A pitiful fate is that of ths child left
by bis busy mother to the care of an un
wise aurse. The nurse may be, kind and
loving, conscientious concerning the little
one's physical welfare, and yet consider
that robber of the children's rights her
legitimate assistant in saving bar time and
trouble. The mysterious and unseen bogle
man and the obvious and substantial police
man are alike her allies In enforcing a
paralysed obedience; and all her discipline
revolve around some form of "drd; soma
fear held before the charge whom she
often loves devotedly.
"When a mother kneels before her child
snd asks anxiously: 'Are you sure you
feel all right, dear? Haven't you a pain
anywhere? Swallow and see If it hurts
you. Tour cheeks look so rod!' the little
one, although at first considerably bored
at being disturbed so Irrelevantly at his
Oluy, usually becomes forced to introspec
tion snd often ends by fretful repose In the
arms of the poor mother while her fear
quickly grows from a rill to a torrent
whose turbulence can only be stilled by
the kindly pooh-poohing of the family phy
sician. No one knows so well as he the
grain of truth in the comic paper story
that shows the young mother in the middle
of the night begging her husband to hurry
and get the doctor, for baby is 'breathing
so evenly!'
"To allow fear-rtdden conversation to
take place in the presence of children
talk concerning sickness or disaster, is
another molding Influence, robbing them
of their gladness, teaching them fearful
resignation to Inimical, Irresistible powers.
Even though they show no evidence of tt
at the time, it is sinking into the furious,
eager thought and must bear fruit."
British WoaicaSufe BIsT Feet.
"The women of England as a rule have
larger feet than their sisters In the I'nited
States, ao I happen to know through a
long experience in building shoes for both,"
aald Mr. J. Donaldson of London, quoted
by the Baltimore American.
"I have taken orders for custom-made
shoes among the feminine upper ten on
both sidna of the Atlantic so many years
that I know the subject pretty well, and
1 am guilty of nq want of patriotism In
saying that the bulk of the women folk
of my country wear "s and Ta, whereas
the prevailing sixes in America are 4's
snd 6 s. I rather think there are more
Ameii'.-an women who take No. . i shuts
than there are English women using I's.
"Why are the women of Great Britain
bloased with larger pedal extremities than
those of the States? I think it is solely
due to the fact that they do .vastly more
walking in the old country. The gentle
sex in England is greatly devoted to pe
destrian exercise, and an English woman
will walk more In a day than one will
In a week in this country. The splendid
benefits of the exercise are seen in the
rosy cheeks and robust figures of our
females, and they very sensibly prefer
strong constitutions to the small vanity
of little ft."
Jteadwrar of Peruvian Wonaea.
One of the correapondenta with the battle
fleet, describing the sights at Callao and
Lima, Peru, .says: As the visitors went
about, one chunge, national in character.
Impressed itself upon them immediately.
Every writer on Peru baa commented on
the fact that the headdress of the women,
worn universally, is the black manta. It
ta said it is a relic that has come down
from the Incaa when they put on mourn
ing for their great chief Atahualpa. Rich
and poor have worn that headdress dn the
street for centuries.. It was an established
institution.
Well, it is going. About one-half of the
women, some of them In good circum
stances, evidently, wore manias on the
streets, but as for ths rest well, a man
has no business to write about women's
hats. All that this man can say is that
he never saw inure daxzllpg specimens of
flower gardens than those bobbing around
over the graceful drapery wtth which the
Peruvian women adorn themselvee.
Thue does fashion war successfully upon
established custom. The Peruvian woman
loves a beautiful hat Just as much as any
other wonian on earth. Moreover, what
is said about her surpassing beauty is
true. Given great beauty and the love
of a hat on the part of a woman what
chance has a black manta got? The manta
has got to go and is suing.
Leaves frona fr'aahloai's KtltbHli,
Borne of the smartest hats will be com
posed of transparent materials relieved by
gold, silver or Jet floral sprays.
Coquettish round turbans will be some
what worn, tricornes revived to a limited
extent and the new sailor shapes are
destined for popularity as the aeason ad
vances. ,
Most of the silk and linen costumes are
made, after the one-piece model of appar
ently in one piece, or are accompained by
one or another of the smart coals so
popularly adaptable to these materials.
Iace is much more of a feature this year
than It has been fcr sum soaJtousj it is
used even for flimsy muslins and lawns,
Is a flat way rather than aa ruff lings and
frills, and very generally in connection witii
stitchlngs and bandings.
The redlngote and the rounded cutaway
are both developed in linen. They are trim
med with lace bands, with bands of con
trasting color, machine-stitched, or with
bands of heavy lace self-dyed or In natural
color. The medallions are not particularly
good, except when necessary to complete
the pattern.
The rule for plain, smooth-fitting effects
around the hips that has governed tha win
ter materials, holds good for the lighter
weight spring and summer fabrics, no mat
ter how much tucking or oilier elaboration
there may be. Also the same long lines
with the gradual flare and the same con
tinuity of the ensemble are required now
as has been.
Tailored hats are the smartest so far,
because they are not at all blaarre. Some
of them are even dressy. A Panama, with
a rattier wide upturned brim, dented In in
two or three places, has a wide, soft fold
of silk wound around the crush crown, and
lace rosettes, one under the brim and the
other at the right side on the top. Tills
style hat la especially becoming where tho
coiffure is parted in the center and rolled
at ths sides.
Scarfs of silk, tulle, lace, and not all
serve effectively and In moat unexpected
waya. They are drawn through a series of
made buckles In bretelle designs, are used
as girdles, tunics, fichus, and countless
ways. Aa girdles, they are drawn to the
shape of the figure, ratiKht up at one side
In a knot, with ends reaching nearly or
quite to the hem ot the gown; or they are
wound twice around "d drawn through
a long tilde, wh cb is the more grace ul.
The new modes are nothing if not de
ceiving. Boane of those thai are in two
parts bodice and skirt are so cleverly
joined together that they appear to be in
one; cashes are not sashes, but draperies,
and draperies are neither more nor less
than sashea. The tunic ia only an optical
iUuKlon, caused by arrangement of trim
ming, and the back of a gown might easily
be mistaken for the front of a last sea
son's creation all sorts of little decep
tions, in fact, are resorted to by the dress
makea, but the end generally Justifies the
means.
Chat Abeat Weaaea.
Miss Mabel Bturtevant has just been ad
mitted to the bar at iefleraon City, Mo.
Her record as a ttudeut is remarkable,
ft he was graduated as the valadlcterlan
from the high scnool. She won scholar
ships in tne uaker University, in the Kan
sas City University and the curator's
scholarship in the University of Missouri.
Since enrolling In 19oa she has taken both
the law and the academic courses at tha
university, and next June will receive her
asgree.
Mrs. Theodora Thomas, ths widow of ths
famous orchestra leader, is making an
effort to have the draught horses in Chi
cago more humanely treated. In a recent
address which she delivered to the team
sters In their official headquarters she
asked their cooperation in doing away
with the practice of overloading wagons
engaged In heavy teaming and In draft
ing an ordinance to be presented to the
city council regulating the tonnage team
sters may be permitted to haul.
Mrs. John Fowler Train, in an address
to the West-end women's republican asso
ciation in Boston the other day, said that
women needed to cultivate conscience.
"You have good, everyday consciences,"
sha said: "you would not tell a lie; but
when you see some article advertised for
seven cents that you think la worth 15
centa, you ruah down and buy It, even
though you know the store Is one that
doesn't pay its employes living wages.
Ton buy it, with no thought of the flesh
and blood that pays that difference In
price. You do the thing that ia ethically
wrong, because It suits your convenience."
It la considerable to be the "first lady
In the land." but It is vastly more to be
that In truth In the hearts of the peo
ple. And that Is what Mme. Porfirlo
Dlas, wife of the Mexican president, has
been for years. All Mexico lovingly calls
her "Carmellta." She Is still young,
though she has presided over the presi
dent's household for nearly 20 years. Dias
is 77, but you would not suspect it, aave
from hie closely cropped snow-white hair.
And he is as proud of his wife today as
when he wedded her, and thereby re
moved his most active political opponent
Gen. Ramon Ruhio, her father. Their
courtship was most romantic, their wedded
life has been idual. They have no children.
Mrs. Post Wheeler has what perhaps no
Other woman in the I'nited States has m
Japanese wedding ring. For Hallla
kimlnie Rives, as she is known to the lit
erary world, was married in Japan to Post
Wheeler, secretary of the American lega
tion. Although the Episcopal ceremony
was used site chose the Japanese marriage
symbol in preference to that of her own
country. It is a little wider than the or
dinary band and Is beautifully carved In
Oriental design. Between the chased work
are Inserted Japanese characters that read:
"My bloved is mine and I am his." This
is the favorite sentiment for the Oriental
wedding. This sentiment Is repeated sev
eral times around the band.
A Bachelor's Reflections.
Th pleasure you .buy spoils before tho
bills for it coma in. t
The nice thing about being a sinner is
it's never a lonesome Job.
It's never necessary for a woman to ap
pear girlish unless she's past 30 and not yet
married.
You can always convince a woman what
a good man you are by appreciating what
a fine character she has. ,
When one girl wants to puxzle a lot of
them she acts natural and they can' make
it out to save their wits. New York Press.
r- v
n r
n
A
PERFECT
9,
r3 nil- ' n
Used by people of refinement
Established la I&66 by
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