OMAHA, SUNDAY MORNING, MARCH 29, 1903.
.1
Artistic and Serviceable Pongee Coats
I if a rfr 2 ti sT" a i t. d.... ur a A l: 1 2 4. . 111
T
UK pni'Ain of 'lie m palate coal
for nl I'i wi-ar Ik a puzzling
one till Bra Jun. TU ordinary
wnmun can not have m coat en
aulto with each piini-s trotting
frock, and yet the .lav when
that prime f ro k worn without a wrap
will be In order la still far away, and many
women prefer to wear a light wrap with
atreet costume even In midsummer.
Of long carriage wrap and dust coats
there are thousands, but the rhort Jaunty
wrap suitablo for gentrsl utility ue seems
nonexistent sine the serviceable covert
coat haa lost Its grip upon feminine favor
and haa b.en relegated to certain net func
tlona. Short eoata of taffeta, peau da
cygne, satin, pongee, etc., embroldt red or
braided In soutache, are shown In the
hopa, but ao far a majority of these gar
ments have a lamentably rendymado lok
and the short coat of Mack taffeta must be
very chlo Indeed If it Is to escape looking
common.
But while the matter of the short sepa
rate coat la atlll In the air the makers havo
vldenUy found no difficulty In the de
signing of graceful dust coats, and these
garmenta are appearing In Infinite variety,
from the serviceable motor coat of tweed
or serge to the exquisite carriage coat of
crepe de chine or silk mouMeline.
Midway between these two extremes
These modish red and rose toiies, the
soft delli ate greens and the medium tone
blur are extremely effective over sheer
summer, frocks of white or neutral tone,
but are of course too vivid for general
city Wear. In the various pongees coals
of these colors and darker shariVs of the
aatne colors are shown, the effects being
monotone and the entire upper part of
the coat down to an empire waist line being
finely braided by hand In self-color 'sou
tache. No other trimming save usually
a neck finish or "scarf of black liberty.
And here we are, bark with the pongees
again. There Is literally no keeping away
u -M 1
DUST COATS OF PONOE E, CI5 Til
la the province of picturesque coata loss
practical thun the former, more utilitarian
than the latter, and here one finds a lung
line of delectable things.
Pongee is a great , favorite for such
artistic yet serviceable coats and Innumer
able models In this material are displayed,
the oholce ranging from the tailored and
somewhat severe dust eoat of heavy rajah
or raw silk to the full flowing model of
lightweight pongee, handsomely embroi
dered in Oriental designs and colorings
or In conventional designs and self-coloring.
The Datura biscuit or mode tones of
pongee are in high favor and make an
excellent background for oriental em
broideries, having in addition the merit
of accommodating themselves to any cos
tume worn with them. One lower Broad
way firm has in stock a superb collection
of Imported coats of this description.
Chinese blues predominating in most of
the models and black satin being almost
Inevitably used to tone down the hues of
the embroidery and bring them Into har
mony with the neutral background.
Handsome ornaments, orandenbourgs.
etc., In the color of the pongee are ilso
much used In connection with the em
broideries, and more modish still are b.g
ornaments made from heavy cording cov
ered with the pongee. Hand braiding In
soutache Is much liked by the great de
signers, but more ordinary types of ma
chine braiding are. regarded askance and
left to the cheaper garments.
"If you cannot have handsome braiding
have none at all," was the advice of one
fashionable tailor consulted upon this sub
ject. "Use some sort of self-trimming In
stead and trust the effect to the lines of
the garment and to some original note In
collar ajnd sleeve finish."
The cVats chosen for the sketches tllus
trate this principle, and no one of! them
' entails elaborate trimming or hand work,
though skill is demanded of the nlaker In
the obtaining of the graceful lines.
A simple cape eoat not, perhaps, belong
ing to the genuine duat coat class, but
most useful and smart for spring wear,
was. In the original model, fashioned of
moke gray cloth, unllned and falling with
admirable suppleness. The only trimming
of the coat consisted of collar and sleeve
finish In black libert satin and of large
cabochon buttons In dull wrought gold.
Worn over the frock of smoke gray
mousseline de sole to supplement which It
was primarily designed, this was a charm
ing wrap, but It works out well In other
colorings and for separate use, and one
New Tork woman haa Just bad It dupli
cated In a delicious, audacious shade of
Inklsh red made with black satin collar,
sleeve border and big buttons and Intended
for wear Over white lingerie frocks.
AND VOILE.
from the materials
in a discussion of
dust coats.
Some good prac
tical models for
motoring, travel
ing, etc., owe tjieir
success entirely to
their cut and tall
orlng and are built
up from natural
coior pongee on
lines slightly sug
gestive of the Dl
rectolre. Three un-
llned, well shaped
capes fall over the
shoulders to the
short empire waist
line and there Is a
flat turndown col
lar of black lib
erty.
A coat copied
from this model
ana made espe
cially for wear
with a pongee
Jumper frock of
natural tone
trimmed In dull
blue has a collar
of, dull blue pon
gee, bordered by
black liberty and
buttons of the blue pongee, showing a nar
row rim of the black satin.
An excellent design for soft pongee or
crepe de chine la the picturesque model
with plaited sleeve which Is Illustrated
among our sketches. Embroidered buttons
and 'a narrow line of silk In contrasting
hue, embroidered In self color ajd border
ing the sleeve bottom are the only touches
of trimming on a coat which, nevertheless,
is of decided elegance, thanks to Its grace
of line.
Crepe de chine of the heavy variety
makes a durable coat, despite Its early
association with costumes of a dressy
order. Fashionable dressn akers are mak
ing up jumper frocks, and three-piece trot
ting frocks of this material in hues appro-v
prists for street wear and dust coats of
crepe, both in elaborately self-trimmed
models and In models of the more simple
sort, are numerbua among the Imported
things.
A pretty coat of willow-green crepe, de
lightfully draped and trimmed with tiny
crepe covered grelote and big ornaments
oi heavy crepe covered cord, la pictured
here, and we have seen this model beauti
fully carried out In one of the light castor
brown shades en suite with a prlncesse
frock of the same crepe embroidered in
self color.
Light weight cloth coats trimmed In lib
erty the same color arid relieved by a little
ralateoat embroidered in contrasting colors
o.' by a waistcoat of handsome flowered
brxsade are ' practical possessions for sum-m.-
and are offered In many colorings and
desl.rns. Borne of these cloth coats are
lined throughout with the supplest of
satin. Others have merely facings of
satin.
A pai Ocularly chlo coat from a famous
Parisian -designer was In mistic cloth and
black sat'n, butane design night be effec
tively carried oA In pongee, taffeta or any
plain coat material. A sketch Is given of
this model, which with Us stitched bands
and big cove.-ed buttons presents a tailored
aspect, yet achieves artlstlo grace at the
same time.
Chains formed of big Units made from
,heavy cord covered with silk are uaed to
hold aome of the new French coata across
the chest In plaov of the ordinary braid
and cord ornaments, and one or two ex
clusive houses are shovlng button and
chain links they have a distinctive French
name, which has slipped our memory for
the fastening of cutaway coat fronts and
ef open sleeves. These are round balls of
colored crystal In the colors of the various
semi-precious stones amethyst, topics, etc.,
set In gold or silver and fastened to
gether by gold or silver chains composed of
large links.
Hero Are Offerings That Certainly Prove Hartrhan's Ability to
AVE
YOU
IT W.
f fi lv I L4
THERE isn't an item mentioned in this announcement that isn't priced on e-third under value many
articles are offered at a full half under regular price You can gain an excellent idea of the amount
Hartmans can save you on your complete home outfit by comparing the splendid values here shown
with the best offerings of any rthcr store in Omaha- Whether on single articles or on COMPLETE
HOME OUTFITS we undersell them all undersell them BY A BIG MARGIN, too, Don't spend a cent
for anything in Jthe line oL homefurnishings until you've visited Hartman's.
Ingrain Carpet
Linen chain. 3 In. wide, IS.
very durable, yard
Velvet Carpet
Clone weave, high pile,
guaranteed coloring, yard.
94c
No Charges for Sewing
or Laying Carpets During
This Sale-.
Printed Linoleums
Best grade, many designs. tQr
square yard J
Inlaid Linoleums
Hard'.vond and tlla pat
terns, fiiuaro yard
1.25
DRF.SSF.R IN OAK OR O 1
MAHOGANY FINISH.... Q
M'Dougall's
Kitsiisn
Cabinets
Save time,
trouble and
labor. Cemplete
line on display,
up from
16:
Theae Dressers may bo had in golden oak
or polished mahogany flnUh. They are of
very handsome design, have extra large
French bevel edge mirror set In carved frame.
The above price represents a 60 reduction.
aiMssasaasaa4MAMA
Reliable
Gas and
Gasoline
Stoves and
Ranges.
Are of aupertor
q u a 1 1 ty. We
have the Oma
ha agency.
I THIS MASS1VK QUARTKR-S AWKD
OAK DAVENPORT SOFA BK
This is unquestionably the greatest Davenport Sofa Bed value that has ever been presented to the
neoDle of Omaha in years. The frame is of quarter-cawed oak. is moat substantially constructed and
' ' most beautifully tlnlslied. Tin arms are nroaa
and of fancy shape, the front posts are heavy
and handsomely carved. Back and seat are set
with the beet oil tempered stfie' springs, up
holstered in beautiful figured Imported velours
and deeply turten. rnere is a large compari
ment under the K-at to store the bedding dur
Ine the day. This Is an excellent valu
world beater at the price.
S 25:22
r-AI!ujinra
-TJ'IM..rf,ii.., t I
si
hi'
Is
mm
THIS SOLID OAK
CHIFFONIER for
5,95
SOLID OAK EX
TENS'N TABLE
15.89
SOLID OAK
-WS)
ifffffh
' 0
rrr t fi
9 LARGE MISSION ijr QfJ
ROCKER FOR... J, U
This large Mission Kocker, made of selected
material. Imported reed seat. Is offered at a
price that is positively unbeatable. It Is of
artlstlo Mission design, weathered finish, broad
shapely back. Tou must see this article to ap
preciate the true value.
CHINA CLOSET
13:Z5
These chiffoniers are strongly
constructed and extra well finished.
They have five drawers with solid
cast brass drawer pulls. Tou can't
find an equal value in a chiffonier
elsewhere in Omaha. Investigation
on your part will prove this to a,
certainty.
It's a remarkably small amount of
money for such & massive well made
table. It's made of selected solid oak
and brilliantly polished. Has extra
large base. Six-foot extension.
Made of selected quarter-sawed oak
throughout. They are fitted with ad
justable shelves grooved for standing
plates. Bent end design, double
strength glass. This China Closet is
of pleasing design and Is sure to meet
With your approval.
SPECIAL FOLniNO' C.65
GO-CART TOR ... . J
Qls Is the famous All win Cart,
est and strongest collapsible
Cart made. All wheels double under
as shown In the Illustration. Can be
opened and closed with one hand. Has
heavy rubber tires, steel wheels and
double steel forks of sufficient
strength to carry 600 pounds. You
cannot duplicate this value elsewhere
In Omaha.
"Let HARTMAN
Feather Your Nest."
fffSS" yffft CENTER TABLE 1
I; jJUtkscT i
V 4
0: or Mahogany QC
Fancy shape top, turned
legii, stretcher shelf,
:i:.--.-K
ceptlonal
tunlty.
saving
an ex-
oppor-
m3
12x9 IMPERIAL MON- T75
1
, FOLDINg
GO-CART .1 '
This beautiful Oo-Cart Is excep
tionally well made with steel gear
steel wheels, rubber tired, re
clining back, adjustable dash. All
steel handles with porcelain grip
Folds compactly.
aaaaaassMas"
' All Deliveries made in
plain unlettered wagons.
ARCH OKUSSLLS HUG
. an ..n.uiit. ih trua viIik. Post colors of the latest design and
shiulei Hentaland floraldVns. it'. factory woven Bug without mitrs seams, a point worthy of eon.lderation.
AXMINSTER
RUOS 12 X 9
2425
Axminater Rugs of the same quality have never been
ffered to the people of Omaha for lesa than SO.O0. The
price we are offering them la characteristic of the Han
taan .concern.
SEAMLESS WILTON
VELVET RUGS 12X9
22.50
Theae Ruga ara woven in one piece and have no
earns, ara cf wonderful durability, coloring and designs
most artlstlo. Many patterns from which to select.
SOLID OAK
BUFFET
15-75
These Buffets are of very pleasing design.
They are made of solid oak, profusely carved
and ornamented. Polished finish. The top
drawers are of fancy shape and the less are
of French design. Have also a French bev
e)ed mirror. This special lot Is offered at
least one-third under value.
TWA
JUL-
ill v IVl m
WW n
hi
1414-16-18 DOUGLAS
II I 1
:10d5
il
STREET
IRON BED. SPRING and
MATTRESS, Complet
In this offering we Include the elegant
Iron Bed illustrated above, one excellent
mattress with soft top, strong ticking and
taped edge and a spring made of the best
pliable woven wire steel. During this
week we offer the entire outfit at a price
which represents about one-half rel
value.
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-A
What the Women Are Doing
PIT
"CtrU, Keep 0 th Stage."
F ANT woman should know
both the trlala and rewards of
Ufa on the stag tt ia Clara
Morris. Her opinion of the
stage as a career carries the
weight of wide experience. In
th current number of the Delineator sha
auks th question, "Would I again adopt
th atager" and answers in these words:
Never! Never in th world. If la com
fortabl and happy circumstances. It was
th necessity of providing food and cloth
ing for my mother and my suit that drov
' m to the stag door, and ft was the mercy
of heaven that swung It open for me.
Tber ia no disparagement of iba itM In
tended. If I had a daughter I would prefer
her not to be an actress. I should wish
weird to offer In the tin of danger. To
b quit frank, all the possibilities of resist
ing or yielding to temptation II with th
girl herself. ' Bvery young woman who
works for ber living must eat with her
bread th bitter salt of insult.
Tha stag has great rewards for th fw
and grat trials and trlbulaUions for all;
and as I hove advia4 many time before.
hr sua easlyr life, un'.s th fever of acting
Is In her wry blood.' Acting baa nothing
the dim and dingy half-light of th theater
la dearer than sunlight; if the burnt-out
air with its indescribable odor Is more
welcome to your nostrils than could be th
clover-scented breath of the greenest
pasture; if that great black gulf yawning
beyond th extinguished footlights makes
your heart leap up at your throat; if with
out noting the quality or length, of your
part. Just the plain, bald fact of "acting
something" thrllTs you with nameless Joy;
If th rattle-bang of th lU-treated old
overtur dances through your blood, and
th rolling up of th curtain on the audi
ence at night is to you the magio blossom
ing of a mighty flower If these are th
things you feel, your fat Is sealed. Nature
is imperious, and through brain, heart,
nerve, she cries to you: 'Act! act! act!
otherwise, keep off!'
"But, fh. my dears, my dears! believe me,
a ' loving mother's declaration. 'I don't
know what I should do without my daugh
ter!" Is sweeter and mor precious to th
memory than th careless applause of
strangers!" N
''. Qseem f Bl arses.
It la now leas than fifty-four years slno
Florence Nlghtlngal began her work, r
lato the Mew Tork. Tribune. That la uly
the span of a not long lifetime. Yet it
measures the advance of the world from
barbarism to humanity. The difference be
tween tha hospitals at th beginning of th
Crimean war and those in the Russo-Japanese
war Is the difference between sav
agery and civilization. Before Florence
Nightingale began her work at Scutari on
tha day before Inkerman women had been
employed as nurses In army hospitals, but
they had been dismissed from all British
hospitals because of their general ignor
ance, drunkenness and immorality. Men
had taken their places, with little gain In
Intelligence or sobriety, and th result was
that the most unfortunate soldiers In th
army wer those who, falling to find a
speedy death on th field, wer sent to th
hospitals to die of gangrene. Nor could
there be a more striking proof of th com
placently benighted state of mind with
which these thlnga were regarded than la
found In tha worda of lady Palmerston,
who publicly condonod drunkenness among
nurses and denounced Florence Nlghtln
gale'a movement for reform aa a "grat
humbug."
It waa Into that Infernal slough of Ignor
ance, misery and death that this devoted
woman descended with all her endowments
of wealth, learning, refinement and social
culture. The revolution which she wrought
Is a bright page in th history of th world.
From It every nation has greatly profited.
In peace as well as In war. 6 he had been
denied the privilege of studying for and
entering the medical profession, wherefore
It was a ajplendld revenge for her to found
a new profession which waa deatlned soon lu
become th chief adjunct and aid of that
from which ah had been excluded. Nor
ha bar work, despite Lady Palmerston' s
contempt, been unappreciated, even from
th betfnolng. It was leas than two years
after her advent at Scutari thai sh re
turned to England and was presented to
Queen Victoria, wh declared harsaif "de
lighted and very much struck with her
great gentleness, simplicity, and wonderful,
clear and comprehensive head," character
istically adding: "I wish we had her at
the War office!" The royal opinion thus
expressed haa for h2lf a century been tha
popular opinion of the world, and among
those who have In our time received honors
from th hand tf the Btittsh sovereign and
from th corportion of tj Er'tah metro
polls ther Is not e whom mai-klnd will re
gard aa mor worthy than Florenqe Night
ingale. Working Wants am th Ballot.
"No one in close touch with the Uvea of
our American working people can b aatla
fled with existing condltiona, either in
dustrial or domestic," says Jane Addams
in an article of absorbing Interest in the
April Woman's Home Companion. "Very
much of this undesirable state of affairs
has come about through th fact that in
dustrial and domestic activities have so
largely slipped out of th control of woman
with her home-building Instincts, her love
for order and her passion for details.
"The old division ef labor, which do
fined man's work as that lying outside the
horn and woman's lnsld had much to
recommend It. Th troubl with us Is
that we have enlarged the boundaries of
the horns and have not enlarged th home
maker's powers with It. For what la
th modern' factory, from the cotton mill
to the steam laundry, from th flour mill
to the canning works, but a place where
an assemblage of workers do on a large
stale for th whole community what each
Individual hoosekeeper used to do on a
small seal tor her own household T What
are all these new social efforts our publla
school system, oar municipal playgrounds,
our public baths and libraries, our system
of street cleaning and tranaportatlon, our
hospitals and asylums but modern efforts
to meet ta modern way th old needs f
humanity? Are women to hav no direc
tion in these matter because th Innate
desire to help others, to feed, to clothe,
to nurse, to teach and to train the race
has taken on new forms?"
Th Triumph, of Daisy.
When Palsy wis IS, she called her father
and mother into her dressing room, re
lates Harper's Weekly.
"Dear papa and mamma," ah said, "It
la time that we cam to an understanding.
Hereafter I dealr to select all my own
clothe without any suggestion."
Naturally papa, laughed at this. Mamma
was discreetly silent.
"And." continued Palsy, "I will roe4r
my callers alone. i
In behalf of th Hew Tork and Massa
chusetts Association Opposed to th Ex
tension of Suffrage to Women. '
Mrs. Russell Sag nas Just given n,000
for an alhletlo park and playground for
the Vieraon High school at bug Harbor, I
I. Tha school is a memorial to Esra,
.Hereon, one of Mrs. Sage's anceetoia.
Only a short while ago she gave 1W,00Q
toward its erection..
Mrs. Grace Lattl has recently con
tributed Uui.OOO to th St. Louis soO ity
that is waging war on tuberculosis. Bh
is said to be the richest woman In Mis
souri, and her contribution la said to be
the largest ever given by one person for
th prevention and relief of consumption.
Mlas Helen Varick and Miss Mary O.
Hay hav opened a woman's department
for hotel, railroad and steainshlp informa
tion at 81 West Thirtieth street, New York
City. They have on their lists hotels In
all cities, from the moat expensive io m
a.
ir
h V
"I hope," said papa, now growing sober, .cheapest, and no charge Is made for in
',. thim nil iMtiirv dear. You know Information.
we hav been very fond of you. Indeed,
I may say that I am worn out ever th
struggle to keep you going."
"Too bad about you, papa," said Palsy.
"But, no. It's not alt I must go to th
matinee at least one a week. Then I
shall, of course, go next term to a finish
ing school. I will let you know th nam
as soon aa I decide. After this you must
tak me to Europe. These are th essen
tials. Ther la also th matter of my
coming out, but that can be arranged later.
I merely wish now to give you due node
that I must no longer be h am pared. -
"Buppose." said Palsy's father, "that w
iefus to consider your modest request.
What thnT"
Palsy smiled. She was fully awar of
her power.
Then." ah repeated, 1 shall tak pleas
ure in tailing everybody what goes on at
bom every day."
, Realising that they wer ua against It,
both pareu ts Joyfully gave In.
Waal Wtmti Art Doing;.
Miss Ida, M. TarbeU Is to tak the field
There Is something rather astonishing
and amusing in th idea of a handsome
girl serving notic on law-breaking cor
porations, but that la what Miss fcdna May
Croasley. daughter of Prosecutor Crossley
of Trenton, N. J , Is doing. She la em
ployed by th attorney-general to serv
notices on th president of law-offending
corporations. Naturally, when they hear
that a young woman wishes to ae them,
and catch a gtlmps of her, tbr invite her
in, to their great discomfiture. Mian Cro
ley la an expert stenographer.
Th "Ada Leigh" homes for English and
American girls In Paris celebrated their
thirty-fifth anniversary January t. Th
soctoLy Is still conducted by it president
and founder, Mrs. Travere Lewis, and not
only provide bom (of a temporary char
acter) for EtoglUh and American gov
ernesses, shop girls and aarvanu, but find
employment for them. Ther are three
"homes" in different quarters of Paris and
an orphanage In which ther are at th
present time nineteen children. The num
ber of girl assisted sine th founding of
th home la 14.0UO.
-
Lmtm froan Fnahloa'a ITotafcvolc.
To enliven th appearano of tha winter
Jacket there are many pretty aubterfuges.
One of these la the throwing of a chiffon
nerk acarf around the shoulders. The new
chiffon acarfa are wld and flat and mad
ao that they dress up tha shoulders. They
ran be trimmed with feathers, or flower,
or with knota of ribbon.
Ther ara women who habitually buy
two or three handsome, partly tailored
gowna around Luster time, depending upon
them for Kuster, traveling and calling all
th rest of th year.
Th yellow shoe is coming bark. Of
course it has not been away entirely, but
this season It is coining back good and
plenty, for men as well as women. And
the women sre responsible, according ta
th ahoa dealera.
All gowna are built very wide acroaa that,
etiouiaera. The tight shoulder which was)
freely predicted has not mad It appear
ance except in solitary cases wnere ti
wearer had a deslr for something excluai
ana ctos ntung.
The spring tailor-made gown Is very be
coming to the figure. The waist la small
and snug and th skirt flares, giving a cer
tain pretty swing to the gown. There Is s
bit of trimming to relieve tha aeverlty of
th cost urns. But th gown la severely)
plain and th trimming Is of th flat sort, i
In th realm of th dressy petticoats,
one sees exquisite model in silk enriched
with lac, ruchlnga and ribbons and em-1
broidery. Th light hued chiffon taffeta
embellished with tucklngs, self frills and
ruchlnga and perhaps with lace la always
good form. Kffectlv petticoat of thla
class are among the lea expensive of deli
cate ailk models. (
Waterproof braids, designed especially
for storm coata, are being used extensively
on walking suits; and any one who ha
had experience with th shiinkabl variety
will appreciate them. They com In au
widths, and In two or three weave ,rurv
nlng from fine to a vary heavy one, that re
sembles a aerie of cording. Waterproof
alike, made Into ban is and folds, are also
used, and as these come In pretty sttipea
and plaids, they are employed In many liv
terestlng ways.
It la ona of th flelteat fads of th sia
son to make the lingerie of pal tan II nun
to go with th tan gown that are ao much
worn. Tan colored lingerie, scarcely deeper ,
than cream, tied with ribbons of cream or
light brown, can bo worn appropriately!
under a brown gown. Th boots are blarfe
namel with tan top or are of tan wltbj
whit top, while the hoe la Just tha color
of th boot topa. The hat matchea th
fown and consequently the remainder oi
he contain must hamionlr.
t
4