-
i
I
F
THE QMAIU SUNT) AY BEE: FEBKUAKV 23, MPS. 3 ,
Adaptable
HfJ ttmin who cannot look well
In a t.M gown In Indeed a hop."
lesa proposition; tut It would
r altogether a mistake to read
Into that statement a theory
that all women do W.k m-.n i
T
their tea rown a.
Thare Is a tradition. surviving from the
ay. of the wrapper, that any one can make
. while In reality there la no gar
went la tht feminine outfit whose success
D"""U,M mOT consummate skill and more
artlstio understanding than the tea rown
la mode. The knowing- Parisian mav
nomlae on her ball gown or atreet gown,
but for that comfortable and picturesque
gown which she will wear In her own horn.
hour or at the Informal dinner
aha will boldly go to a maker of unqjes
tloned authority and will in consequence
PT a price that may eeem extravagant to
tha conservative.
Exquisite, supple materials, perfection
of workmanahlp, harmony of coloring,
artlstio grace of line. and. above all. be
eotnlngneas are the essentials of the smart
tea rown and of lta slightly more prefen
tious relative, the Informal dinner gown,
which la after all but a comfortable and
, picturesque tea gown with accented decol
kitaga, an eminently coquettiah and becom
ing dinner rown appropriately worn only
at one's own table and when the dinner
guests are one's Intimate.
Artistic Ir.novaUona have brought about
within recent seaaona aome ball, dinner
and reception toilettes which, though In
tended for Informal wear, have the louat
flowing lines associated with the tea gown;
but these artistic gowns of Greek or ori
ental suggestion are too extreme to be
generally adopted, and only the audacious
i and exceptional woman experiments with
them, while no woman who can afford to
pay for an effective tea gown need shun
It for fear of appearing bizarre.
The first point to be considered the
vital consideration la the figure of the
wearer. Thanks to the elastic posslblli
ties of life In the modish tea gown, this
adaptable garment may make the best of
any figure; but In order to achieve this a 1
mlrable result the designers must under
stand the value of lino and know exactly
how to counteract by the lines of the gov.n
the fallings In the lines of the wearer's
figure.
In the adjustment of the waist line the
accentuation or suppression of the hip
curve, the widening or narrowing of the
shoulder, disguising or emphasising of tho
bust roundness-4n these things lies the
possibility of giving grace to almost any
figure, and In the handling of these prob
lems the successful designer of tea gowns
revels.
The foundation of the gown, the soft,
clinging lining Into which tho figure la
moulded, with no hint of tightness, must
be very cleverly cut and fitted. In aome
chic models one finds only a foundation
as loose as the outer robe, but this Is tiuo
of tho boudoir gown, the very Informal
though often flaborate negligee, .rather
than of the formal tea gown.
" The French marker of the lattor garment
almost Invariably starts with the exqui
sitely fitted clinging lining- Then be d.ecs
his wizardry with the floating outer dra
pery, considering in every fold and de.ai!
the neceasltlea of the wearer's figure.
Empire modes adapt themselves admir
ably to tea gown exigenciea and will be
popular In this field after their vogue In
other provinces has passed; but the Idea
most Insistently urged by the tea gown
designers recently has been that of the
loose coat or tunic worn over a robe at
least slightly defining the outlines of the
figure.
A transparent coat or tunic of laca or net
over a clinging robe of very supple satin
or ailk or over a daintily hand-wrsught
robe of chiffon, ailk moussellne or net is
the scheme most frequently repeated, but
there are two very effective models In
which the coat or over drapery Is cf velvet
sum, silk or crepe, while the under robe
Is of sheer material. v
A handsome model from Dreeoll has a
long, louse, sleeveless coat of pink Liberty
Activities
Bachelor Visions aad Il!as4ons.
BACHELOR, who died In In
diana the other day, left the
melancholy warning to Ilia kind,
"lon't live a batch aa 1 have
lived." Many expressions of
similar tenor came from the
A
dying man, who Bought In soulful words
to repent for his wasted life, but the senti
ment of all were tritely condensed Into
the words when by his direction will be
chiseled on the tombstone.
The Ilooaltr repentant was doubtlesa an
Idealist, who dreamed of a queen for an
airy castle, while what be really needed
waa a woman competent to manage or
do the prosaic work of a home. A writer
who knows the tribe, aays "the bachelor
U an exacting being. He cannot bear to be
disillusioned in the matter of his ideal of
feminine lovellneas. His devotion to the
fair one he has clothed In illusions will
stand Just so many blows. Then there
comes a time when a straw will break Its
back. One Idealist bore the discovery that
the bloom upon his lady's cheek owed
more to art than to nature, but he si 111
tlurlshed the fatuoua delusion that the
complexion beneath its artificial damask
was lovely In hue and texture. He attfled
a pang when It transpired that the duky
shadow In eyelash and eyebrow grew on
the end of an eyebrow pencil, and poul
ticed his pain with the reflection that the
eyelashes were long and the eyebrows well
shaped. But when, upon a brisk walk In
the duak. when the final word had all but
been spoken, she, after hasty pats over
her head, besought him to retrace his
Steps and assist her to hunt. for her missing
curls those dear curls which be had
thought so adorable the last straw fill.
He felt prepared to see the very features
f bis Idol vanish as completely aa he him-
Fat Is An Offense.
"The female form being capable of ex
pressing a supreme degree of grace, should
be an Inspiration in our daily lives and
lead up to higher Ideals of beauty," taid
the art lecturer. "Therefore the fat wo
man is an enemy to th artistic uplift for
he Is entirely too heavy for any uings
of fancy to raise.
"J can't understand how any woman will
remain fat when it la so easy to reduce
one's flesh. In the Latin quarter of fails
one never sees a grosa figure. Although
th art modela taka things easy, sit around
a. great deal and eat Just whatever they
please, yet they keep their flesh firm and
their figures beautiful. They have a sim
ple fat reducer that takes the place of
starving and gymnastics. It consists of
teaspoonful after mean and at bedtime
f tbla simple receipt: H ounea Marmoia,
V ounce Fluid Extract Cases ra Aromatic
and IVt ouncea Syrup Simplex. That's all.
Vhy don't fat, pudgy American women try
that? Xt'a harmless nay. ery good for
them and will, I understand, take off as
much as a pound of fat a day. Any one
with a litUe small change and a drug
str aajuy caa Lave a decent figure. "
Tea Gown Prevails
satin bordered by a band of pink ranna, a
heavy handsome embroider- denim n
mingled gold and silver covering the line
of union between satin and velvet. This
embroidery, by the may, waa, as close ex
animation revealed, skilfully applied In
stead of being embroidered upon the coat,
and the beauty of th high-priced applique
embroideries today enables one to secure
excellent effects at cost far less than that
of the hand embroidery done to order.
The beautiful embroidered neta and th
combinations of lace and embroidery are
full of possibilities aa tea gown trimming.
Indeed, there waa never a time when the
picturesque elegance of the tea gown was
easier of achievement than 1t is now.
Gold and silver are highly valued by the
tea gown designers and the lacea and em
broideries In which these metallic effects
are Introduced are legion. All white and
gold or white and silver Is considered ex
ceedingly smar- and a Greek key design In
NEOLIGEK OP WHITE LINON TRIMM
VALF.NCIF.VNKS AND A TEA GOWN
BKOIDERED WITH YELLOW ROBES
gold or silver bordering a beautifully
draped robe of white crepe de chine has
decided cachet.
One of the tea gowns sketched here could
be successfully carried out in white crepe,
white chiffon or silk moussellne and gold
or silver embroidery, but Is charming, too.
In delicate color with relieving white in
corsage folds and aleeves. This is an ex
cellent model, not too complicated to be
successfully copied by a reasonably clever
dressmaker.
The long, transparent, mousquotalre
sleeve Is i sod In many of the latest models,
but Is re.illy good only In connection with
some such modest decolletage aa that of
the gown In question, the V lines asso
ciating well with the long sleeve, while the
round or rami pronounced decolletage Is
usually combined to better advantage with
a ahort sleeve.
A mere frill or cape arrangement of lace
or transparent stuff often serves for sleeves
and the wing on angel sleeves which have
been making their appearance even In cer
tain artistic Parisian evening gowns are es
pecially effective In connection with the
tea gown, aa are loose draped sleeves of
any graceful sort, falling away to show
the outside of the arm.
A majority of the coats are sleeveless or
I 1 f W'w ft . ft-v0
IVWfe'a Wl tlflSf I ' A.99
and Views of Progressive Women in Various Walks of Life
self vanished from before her shrine after
the search for her lost tresses was over.
"The bachelor's Ideal la too often the
ornamental feature of his future home, and
It never occurs to him that sometimes a
Sevres vase serves the purpose of holding
the lamp which lights a home and aome
tlmea Its construction U such that no prac
tical use can be made of it. But he never
considers that the Idealist is prone to close
his eyes so that he not only cannot tell
serviceable from unserviceable pieces of
Bevn-s, but is not even able to distinguish
between Crown Dresden and common clay.
"It often happens, however, that the
beaut loui vision which forma the bache
lor's ideal materialises Into a wife; that
her face is as sweet aa her disposition; her
voice aa sweet as her smiles; her hands
as lovely in the preparation of an appe
tising dinner aa when skimming over the
keya of a piano. The bachelor's Ideals find
Innumerable equivalents In fact. When this
Is not the case the fault lies often with
the bachelor. In business he will not ac
cept anything at Its face value and with
out due investigation, but he rarely ex
amines into the useful qualities and at
tributes of mind and disposition of the
fair one whose laugh thrills him at the
theater, whose glances brighten tnc supper
afterward and whose accomplishment form
a screen behind which he never looks to
barn whether they are backed by solid
virtues or Irritating foibles."
In the matrimonial the idealist as Well
as the Ideal must take chances "go It
blind." if need be If either would escape
the pathetic fate of the Hoosler who re
pented too lato.
Women anal the Malls.
Btsr Itoute' W26, South fass City to
Lander. Wyo.
That is the official designation which the
PosLOfiice department gie to forty miles
of mountain trail that runs along the t-p
of the coinlnentiil divide In the Wind Itlvcr
range of tlie Rocky mountains in north
western Wyoming. Over that trail the
Vulted States miula pass duily, In both di
rections, to connect with other star routes.
Star routes are usually sward to triod
and seasoned Veterans of the road men
who can follow the trail when the Vfikes"
are buried under several feet of snow and
the only other landmsi ks-the mountains
are shrouded In fog and mist. Bui once
in a while an txception ts made, for s.kmI
reasons. One of them Is star reutj No.
C412S. It is operut -d by a veteran, ii-deed.
but not a man. Mrs. 8. K. Gllleipl?, who
is a Kansas City womun when she is
"back home," holds a commU-.ioQ from
the Poaloffice department to carry the
malls over this route, and fur two years
has not failed to deliver th mail pouch
at Its destination within the ln.,e sjierlfiad
In her contract. To dj this hua not always
been easy. Moie than once she has had
to abandon her sleigh on the trail, rut the
hat-ocas and with the mall bags thrown
acruaa the horses' backs push on through
a bllssard that obscured every landmark
and the road Itself.
"Cloaa calls! Well, yes; aome," said
Mrs. Gillespie, la aa interview In tli Kan
have large draped armholee from which
the soft, transparent Meeves of the under
robes emerae. but occasionally one sees aa
elbow coat sleeve with cuff and frill, after
the Louis mode, or a modified kimono
sleeve, this last usually opened up the out
side to the shoulder.
The second gown of the sketch Is a par
ticularly charming model, the daintiest and
most feminine of tea gowns. The under
robs Is In bleu del crepe de chine, em
broidered In little applied rose garlands of
pale creamy yellow. Over this princess
jt :sv-r jr. en
I 11 I
aWsBBVHlBSBBBBBBBBT I
EH WITH BANDS OP LIBERTY AND
WITH MANTLE OF VALENCIENNES.
robe, whose girdle Is shortened to emplr
lines at the back, falls the manteau of
Valenciennes, formed from very wide lace
flouncing.
The falling lace forms the sleeves, though
there are tiny transparent under sleeves
of clel moussellne de sole. The fichu Is of
ciel moussellne de sole, with a bordering
line of yellow roses, and this fichu is so
draped that it descends to the empire waist
line In the back, the lace manteau folds
failing straight from beneath It
A very charming Hind simple te gown,
model, which should be s possibility for
any dressmaker, la made on empire lines,
the skirt falling from shortened waist
line, while the bodice is merely draped
fichu fashion, crossing In surplice folds at
back and front, V-shaped decolletage bor
dered by a Greek design in gold and silver.
The same design may or may not be ap
plied around the top of the folded girdle
and will border the short-draped sleeves.
A wide scarf bordered by the Greek key
design Is draped in plaits on the shoulders,
coming down well over the sheulder point
and falls straight, back and front, almost
to the bottom of the gown.
8llc voile Is a pretty and serviceable ma
terial for such a model, with girdle and
acarf In self-tone liberty.
sas City Star. "One night In November
my driver, who was bringing the mail
from Myeravllle to South Tass. didn't ar
rive at the hour he was due. I waited
until S o'clock In the morning and then I
determined to find out what waa the mat
ter. The mall for Atlantic, a station four
miles out, which he was to take on his
return trip, was ready to go. I couldn't
get a horae in town, so I took the mall
pouch and walked to 'Atlantic, where I
left it There I got a horae and pushed on.
"About two milea from Atlantic I found
one of the mall wagon horses with-trailing
harness and I knew there had been an ac
cident., .1 caught the horse and went on.
Soon I saw the wagon by the side of the
road and the Injured driver on the ground.
There had been a runaway. The second
horse wasn't to be found, so I loaded the
mall bags on my horse, and, assisting the
driver on the other, turned back toward
South Pass. We made It just In time to
save a lost trip being recorded against
my contract.
"The winter of 14 was one of the most
severe I had to go through. In April there
was five feet of snow on the trail. That
month I bad a terrible experience. I started
for Myeravllle in the morning with a two
horse sleigh aid a driver. The snow was
packed hard and the trail perfectly pluln,
but we hadn't gone far when it began to
snow herd. In an hour a violent bliziard
waa raging. When we were still seven
miles from the station and the snow was so
thick ws could soarcely see the horses the
whlffletree broke. We abandoned the
sleigh, piled the mail bags on the horses'
bucka and went ahead on foot. We dluu t
dare ride the horses for fear the extra
weight might prove too much for them.
The stakea which markert the trail were
aoon covered with snow, and we could only
fo'low the hones. A horse has a wonderful
instinct for following a trail In the worst
storm, and they kept the road and brought
us into the station, tut my feet were
frosen."
Mra. Gillespie cares for her own stock,
doctors her twenty-two horses.- superin
tends the repairs on the wagons and sleighs
nnd drives over the route.
"I learned to shoot when I first went
out there, but I have never been molested,"
she stid. "though mail wag. ins on nearby
routes have been held up once or twite. I
have frequently been out all n.gt.t in the
saddlo looking for strayed horses, but never
bad to shoot anything worse than a rattle
snake." Trlbate tu Mra. Bryan.
In an address to a womun'a club In
Buffalo, last week, W. J. Bryan paid the
following tribute to his -wife:
"An eajiLirn society woman haa been
quoted as being quite solicitors as to
whether or not Mrs. Bryan would be capable
of conducting her social duties with pro
priety. I lake the opportunity of saying
tn public something about a woman whose
aid to me in my public career I unhesitat
ingly acknowledge. She Is a very superior
woman. She is a college graduate and Is
deeply read la Boany subjects. After our
Is A Clhaoce to Save One
Half Worth Considering?
Hundreds of. people have appeared to think so this week. The opportunity to pet twice ns much for your money or to get
every need for half what you expected you'd have to pay next Fall ought to be an incentive to immediate buyingl-ouglit to
arouse your enthusiasm. The knowing ones will buy now during this special
FEBRUARY CLEARING SALE
They'll save handsomely by this forethought and forehand buying, for prices will double or more in a month hence. If you ar 'nt
ready far the goods we'll gladly hold them for you and make deliveries later. We deliver all goods in plain unlettered wagons..
CREDIT WITH TERMS SPECIALLY LOWERED.
The above Illustration will give
you a fair Idea of tlie beauty of this
bed. It is of very handsome design,
missive tubing and large ornamented
chills and Joints. All popular colors
of enamel. This bed Is of superior
character and offered at an extra
ordinary low price.
Carpets and Rugs
168 rolls fine Brussels Carpet,
firm weave, cq.
yard 3JC
68 rolls Velvet Carpet, In lUht
and dark tans, o ff
yaid JJC
41 rolls Reversible Ingrain Car-
pets. wool, linen
41c
chain, yard
Brussels Rug. 12x,
seams, guaranteed,
each
Wilton Velvet Rues,
no mitre
.14.97
22.50
12x9, popular patterns.
Smith's best Axmlnster Ruus,
12x9, first J A of)
quality 4T"U
M'Dougall Kitch
en Cabinets fr"'
All the latest designs are now
or. display at our store at excep
tionally low prices. There's a cab
inet made to suit every taste arid
every purse, try the one that suits
jour's for 30 days at our risk.
marriage ahe studied law and perfected her
knowledge In it. To make herself a more
complete helpmate to me in my public
career, she studied economics and political
economy. I unhesitatingly take her advice.
Some of our friends yuis me by saying that
"she Is superior aa a public man to her hue
band and as to social abilities, I have no
fear of her ability to conduct herself with
propriety and credit"
Mayor Tom L. Johnson of Cleveland, who
waa next introduced, said:
"I am glad of the opporunity to add my
voice in praise of Mra. Bryan. She Is un
questionably a superior woman. I well re
member when Mr. Bryan and I were mem
bers of congress. He made a speech for
which he was congratulated on all aldea.
Some one asked him, 'Lid Mra. Bryan write
that fcpeech?'
"I remember his reply: 'She might have
done ao; ahc is clever enough.' "
Women Workers In India.
Consul General Wllllum H. Michael of
Calcutta wrltea that the government of
India, acting upon the recommendation of
the telegraph committee, has authorized the
employment of women operators. He adds:
"Tlie candidates must be between IS and 30
years of age, and tin y must be unmarried
or widows. They mus' undergo a training
of twelve months In the telegraph training
classes, during which time they will re-e-ive
$r,.,!5 a month, the same allowance that
Is drawn by male learners. Selected candi
dates, on leaving the training classes, will
be on probation for one year. On appoint
ment they will receive the following pay:
At stations In India other than Rangoon
and Madras, tl3.31, increasing by annual In
crements cf W cents, commencing with the
fourth ci of aeit lor, to fcX.GE,; at naiisoon,
$:e . Increasing to $J0; at Madras. $10, In
creasing to 3.31. W rvice will be pension
able, and there will be no Lability to tians
fer; but resignation will be compulsory in
the event of marriage. The hours of work
of women signallers wiil be from ,8 a. m.
to p. m., but the w hole period of duty will
not exceed seven hours in the twenty-four,
and tm-re will be exemption from duty on
Sundays."
Worth on I'.ronuiny.
"How can any self-respecting woman
clot ha he rtelf In a last year's gown?"
asks M. Wortli of Paris, in Harper a Lusar.
"If eacii frock, instead of being an epi
tome of every fugitive craxe of the hour,
be in detail beautiful and becoming, and
of good and beautiful material, there will
be no reason wi.y, posuiuly with a little
alteration, but probably without any at all,
the gown aged I, 3 tr even 4 years may not
be worn and look admliable!
"Never oruer fashiotia that date a dre. a
is my advice to the thrifty. When every
body is wearing balloon aleeves, restrain
your own. When skirts are so attenuated
thai walking is a difficulty, say to your
dressmaker that ou must have extra
breadth tn yours. Moderation is the watch
word of the really good dressmaker and
exaggeration bis detestation.
"One of tea first Uuiks my father, the
HI
ISiiibSs'L
mmt4m
Quarter
Oak Pedestal Ex.
tension Table
$17.69
Guaranteed slst hole
Steel Range, complete
with warming closet,
26.75
Large Oak
Heater ...
S5.15
Sawed hfjk ': i
Hsrtman'i Hot
Blast Heater. . .
Solid Oak rj J5
M i ss I on y
Rocker Jr
Of below attractive de
sign, broad comfortable
back, wide seat, thor.
ougbly guaranteed. !
'tit a ntmv
MwMj
if"ii
N ew Special "5T 75
China Closet JP
This China Cabinet Is of
our own special design,
made of solid oak, shelve
grooved for plates, double
strength glass, bent end de
sign. I4M-I4I6-I4IS
founder of the house of Worth, set himself
to accomplish was the Semolitlon of the
crinoline a fashion that made women not
only mountebanks, but a public nuisance.
He quietly dispatched It into the limbo of
things discarded. It lias never returned
and never will.
"I will tell you a story that will show
you how unreasonably Insatiable some
women are In their desire for sheer novelty.
It was told me by one of the most re
nownded Jewelers In Paris, who remodela
the crowns of Europe and has the most
exalted among his clients. A woman came
to him one day and a sked to see the very
latest tiara he hud. It was shown and
the design pleased the woman, who said
it was really very beautiful. But, she
asked, was it new?
"Assured and reassured upon this point,
she decided to buy It. And then suddenly
she put a last questiem to the Jeweler.
"How old is it, precisely?' she asked,
eagerly. She was told It had been three
weeks In the establishment, and great was
her chagrin thereat. 'What! Three
weeks!' cried she. 'Why, I thought It
might have bee-n only three days!' As even
a fairly simple tiara takes three months
to make, what matter whether It had been
finished three days or three Weeks ago?
There could certainly be nothing newer!"
Where Woinrn Own to Age.
In Japan every woman has to dress ac
cording to her agej, arid It is pretty certain
that such a fashion, if fashion it is, will
never prevail In this country. Suppose it
were the rule that every woman upon a
certain birthday anniversary ihould adopt
a certain kind of dress, there would be a
forgetting of birthday dates in very short
oidei. Li Japaii a toouimi wears gold pins
until ahe is 2J. At j the pins axa. white,
merely spotted with gold, and at 40 ahe
wears plain shell combs. Her shoes are
also changed as the ago changes.
What Wssus Art Delnar.
Mrs. Hariietie WtKid Johnston, a lawyer
In New York, 1b In partnership with her
husband. Mrs. Philip 1 uipcnuer is another
.-sew l ork lawyer who works wiut hr
husband in partnership.
Al an auction sale in New York last
week of early editions of Mra Mary Baksr
ti. tdil.V K works, a postal card containing
five words "Meet Me at the Depot," was
sold for tit to one of her admirers.
Henrietta Crosman, the actress, is aoon
to depart for India to claim a fortune of
$iii,wu left her by her grandfather, and
she will abandon Lhe stase temporarily in
uder to establish residence tor that pur
poses. Mrs. Charlemagne f Tow er. wife of the
American ambuooudor to Germany, who la
to return to this country In the early
siring, finds thai her popularity on the
continent la making tier exit difficult So
great a success his been Mrs. Tower so
cially in the official world of the German
capital tiiat ICiiioeror William himself views
the departure of Hits brilliant woman with
personal regrets.
Mra Carolina C. Furbush of West New
ton, Mass., has presented to the Navy de
partment of the Naval Academy at An
napolis, a valuable historical painting by
Thomas Birch of the "battle Betwwn the
Constitution and the Uuerriere." Birch
was an artist of a century ago. and waa
on of tho first designers of Lulled Slates
IWl
L
MMMtM, MMmmtttntnt.tMH I J
We firmly believe that
this Is by far the blrsest
Pedestal Extension Table
value on sale In Omaha.
This table Is made of
best selected oak with
large qunrter-aawed oak
top, brilliantly polished.
It ts ery masRlvo, very
substsntial asd extra
well finished.
Mi
Double Heating Base
Burner, full nickeled
trimmed guaranteed,
31.50
.55.95
H u d Goal
Heater . . .
S22.I5
U-tX V H lm i I toll tali I
v it mm
- - . sb rav v ar v. -a si im f m u, . .1.1.. a.iiiij ,--r fir
ll! ""TtliTi sai'" 1 Comblnstloi
Made of selected solid oak
throughout, fancy shaped
French bevel plate mirror.
11 ts a ouperior mane, case tizjr
a very handsome case and sivl
m tmmendoiia hirpaln at ih. PV t
price.
... B-.-
A TX
m u mm
Feather your nest
DOUGLAS ST
coins at the Philadelphia mint He painted
his naval battle picture In lh:.
Mary Boyle O'Reilly, daughter of the
poet Jtihn Boyle O'Reilly, is trying to
get women ins-ctors for the lodging
houses of Boston, In which she save 7o,(KMl
live their lives. These houses have bad
plumbing and few conveniences for the
lodgers, who are young and workers In
the city, with few pleasures leyond those
afforded by the very cheapest theaters.
Leaves from Fashion's Notebook.
Calling eli esses are very elaborate, and
the nets, silk voiles and finer materials are
Impressed into the service.
Voile In new patterns is out this spring
prettier than ever and more popular. It
comes in all tones and is made up as a
two-piece suit with a lingerie waist to be
worn with the little Eton coat and the
plaited skiit.
A bow of velvet 'in the back Is one of the
dlstlnelive features of the handsome call
ing waist. It is made of chiffon velvet and
is a twisted affair run through the lace
and tied fiat with ends and loops out
spread. A little silver thread is used to at
tach the bow to the luce.
For the nicer waists Hie surplice effect is
much in vogue. A wide band of lace is
brought down from1 each shoulder and
crossed in the middle- of 1 lie front, where it
is faslened with a handsome pin. - A bis
ornamental button may be used in place ot
the pin. All kinds of lace are useid lo inako
the surplice effect.
A lovely shirt waist in the latest mode is
embroidered with stuffed roses which are
worked out In silver embroidery. Tlie roses
are first done in white worsted and then
covered with white silk, after which the
silver threads are drawn over them ao aa
to completely conceal the ailk and ttie
padding.
Gloves are growing longer as the dress
sleeves are growing snorter. There are
gloves that cover the elbow snd part ot
tne upper arm, where they are met by
puffs of lace. Ovtr these puffs there fall
sleeve cups of silk or lace. Every effort la
made to pile triinmlnga upon th upper part
of the sleeve without actually stuffing the
sleeve with crinoline.
There Is no denying the fact that for the
woman who is going to have only one gown
the best selection is a tan. for it holds Its
own better and endures more hsrd wear
than lhe other tints of brown. There tne,
of course, many shades of tan, for one can
count in the biscuit tones, lhe twine and
airing rolora, tlie burnt bread and the soft
yellow browns.
With the elaborate dinner gowns the
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handsomest shoulder capes and wraps are
worn. They are in aoft shades of ovster
gray and silver gray and their embroideries
are carried out In the same tone'. These
caries are not too dressy for street and car
riage wear, aa they are all In one ceilor, ao
to speak, though they give the costume a
wonderfully dressy appearance.
A New York nostess Introduced a new
feature the other day which mav become
popular, for It was both chic and beautiful.
It was the wearing of the very short
or Josephine sleeve. The waist, which was
a lingerie waist of fine lace, was cut off
above the elbow and finished with a wide
band of lace Insertion. The elbow and part
of the upper arm were bare. And the neck
was cut rouneling. But to cover up the
arm and neck, there waa a chiffon scaif
which was 'thrown around the shoulders
and arma and allowed to hang carelessly in
front.
RBLIGIOIS KOTES.
Rev. Father D. 8. Phelan. editor of tha
Western Watchman of St. Louis, will go
on an extended trip abroad after Easter.
He will make an Intimate study of Catholic
questions and will visit the pope. .
President Charles Lincoln White of Colby
colle-ge, Watervllle, Me., has tendered his
resignation to take effect ut the end of the
colle-ge year and has aoe-epted the peisitlon
aa associate corresponding secretary of the
American Baptist Home Miaalon Society of
New York.
Rev. Thomas Bourgeon, pastor of ' the
Metropolitan tabernacle, London, has made)
definitive his resignation of the pastorate,
which was postponed from March last year.
His health la alill poor.
Rev. John F. Frleden. one of the most
distinguished Jesuit educators of the coun
try, was installed lasl week president of
St. Iiuis university. For a time he was
president of Detroit college. Father Frleden
was born In the grand duchy of Luxem
bourg in 1&44.
Ir. J. Wilbur Chapman, leader of the
Presbyterian evangelistic work in this
.country, has arranfted to Join his forces
wlih thoe of Rev, Charles A. Alexander In
a tour that will take ttiem around thet
world. The trip, at planned, will requlrs
alx months.
Rev. Dr. Ludwlg Holmes, pastor of the
Swedish Lutheran church in Portland,
Conn., has had the degree of knighthood
of the Order of Vasa 0011 f err eed on hini by
King Ousts ve of Bweden. The decoration
wss in recognition of Dr. Holmes' literary
work.
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