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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Jan. 26, 1908)
TIIE OMAILV SUNDAY BEK: JAXTTATiY W. im. New York EW YORK. Jen. 2t-It haa el- Nl moot become a tradition that wont to Boston to spend the Christmas hott I pianists make excellent bus- days with lomt Polish friends. Of court I .1 - - . . . V - . . """"" w tort woman, Since Fran Rummel Warn a tha husband of Miss Moraa there match have been a number of similar j. .1 Hfmann uter """-rted Mra. Bust Is. and tha latest of these unions made Miss Lucy Draper the wlfa of Ernest Bohelllng. Mr. Sehelllng In not an American by birth, uui came nere very early In life to be with bis brother, who Is a professor at the Uni versity of Pennsylvania, and his acquaint ance with his future American wife began more than ten years ago. Mr. Sehelllng returned to Europe at dif ferent times to study with Ignace Paderew skl. vwho has always bean hla friend and patron, to spend winter with the house hold of the Brand duka of Mecklenburg Behwerin, who appointed him court pianist, and to play In the various cities of Europe. Then he came back and married Miss Draper. Thry are living this winter In New Tprk and Mr. Sehelllng plays his con cert engagements In different parts of the country, devoting the Intervals of his so journ hero to composition. Another American woman who recently became the wlfa of a foreign virtuoso Is Mrs. Franz Krelsler. Mrs. Krelsler, who was Mrs. Woers before she separated from her first husband to marry the violinist. Is a native of New York. Bho became ac quainted with Krelsler when he came her four years ago and after hPr divorce be came the violinist's wife. Mr. Krelsler hns In a greater degree than some of his colleagues the romantic spirit of the muslclnn and Mrs. Krelsler has proved an excellent guide for him. She has enaHed him to save his money, to devote tnore time to study and to progress st steadily In his art that" critics have praised Mm this year more than ever. Mr. Krels ier also has her opinion as to the place of the artist's wife In society. "It seems Impossible to realize that there were times whin artists were habitually Invited about without their wives." she aid to a reporter "as If such a thing were possible today! The wife of the artist haa , ebme to bo recopniied as entitled to share In the attentions that society shows to him It seems hard to realize that there could have been a time when the wives of mu sician could' consent to assume such an attitude." They are not called upon by society to do It now, as Mrs. Krelsler has learned. So far as they contribute to the gayety of so cial functions It la often the wife rather than the husband who makes the agreeable guest. It haa usually been the task of the musi cian's wife to look after her husband's health and In a measure after his business of Ladlslaa Gorakt, the Polish violinist, be and to play In fact the part that falls so fore her marriage to PaderewskL By this often to the husband of the prima donna, marr)age she had a son who was for a while mme. rauerewsai nas a ratner larger responsibility In that particular than the wife of any other virtuoso, she rises to It In a correspondingly efficient manner. She has an exact knowledge of every de- tall of her husband's business and Is the mistress of the Paderewski farm at Morges. It Is to Mme. Paderewski that every state- ment of expenses on the private car of the pianist Is taken and she sees to It that the naturally extravagant tendencies of her busband are hold In check. The picture shown here was taken Just Activities Society Womaa'a Clothes. N hla story, "The Metropolis," In the February number of the American Magaalna, Upton Blncluir gives this account of a New York society woman's clothes: ''1 don't believe that a woman has a thing to do or think about in the world except to' wear clothes!" said Alice. "Why, she has adjustible mirrors on ball-bearings, so that she can see every part of hor skirts! And she gets all her gowns from Paris, four times a year she says there are four seasons now, instead of two! I thought my clothes amounted to some thing, but, my goodness, when I saw hers!" Then Alice went on to describe the .un packing of fourteen trunks, which had Just come up from the custom house that day. Mrs. Virginia's coutourlera had her photograph and her coloring (represented In actual paints) and a figure made up from exact measurements; and so every one of the garments would fit her per fectly. Each one came stuffed with tissue paper, and held in place by a lattice-work , of tapo; and attached to each gown was a piece of the fabric, from which her shoemaker would make shoes or slippers. There were street costumes and opera wraps, robes de chambre and tea gowns, reception dresses, and wonderful ball and dinner gowns. Most of these latter were to be embroidered with Jewelry before they' were worn, and Imitation Jewels were sewn on, to show how the real ones were to be placed. These garments were made of real lace or Parisian embroidery, and the prices paid for them Was almost im possible to credit. Some of thein were made of lace so filmy that the women who made them had to (It in damp cel lars, because the sunlight would dry the fine threads and they would break; a single yard of the lace represented forty !aya of labor. There was a pastel batiste de eolre Pompadour robe,, embroidered with cream silk flowers, which had cost tl.ooo. Thera was a hat to go wtlh It, which cost $U, and shoes of gray antelope skin, buckled with mother-of-pearl, which cost ttO. There was a gorgeous and intricate bail dress of pale green chiffon satin, with orchids embroidered in oxidised silver, and a long court train, studded with diamonds and this had cost $&0uO without the Jewels) And there was an auto coat which had cost 1.000, and an opera, wrap made In Lelpalo of white unborn baby lamb, lined with ermine, which had cost $3,000 with 1.0u0 additional for a bat to jnatoht Mrs. Land Is thought' nothing of paying IX for a laca handkerchief, or ptt tor a pair of spun silk hose, or S30O for a pearl-and-gold-han-dled parasol trlmmbd with' cascades of chiffon, and made, like her hats, on tor aaoh gown. Watte Hotsao BaVy How m Bo. As she was a -White House baby." In the sense that she lived there when her grandfather was president. Mlas Mary Lodge McKee attracts as much attention now as any of tha "buds". In Washington society. Many persona still recall that her Infantilo ailments disturbed tha nation. Once she and her cousin, Marthena Har rison, caused tha executive mansion to 'be put under Quarantine for tha first time. Tha publlo discontent about that proceed ing resulted eventually In tho building of that architectural monstrosity. In what may be called the power bouse Renalasanoa style, that now serve as an offlce to the president. Miss McKee is attractive looking, and may take front rank among tho belles. Her mother, Mrs. Hobert James MuKte, bas made annual visits to tha capital aver since her father retired from the chief iuaistracy. Mlas MoKeo la taller than Society Women Who Have Married Well Known Pianists before Mm. Paderewski and her hosbejid me AotmownKii war amors tha group. After tha week tha pianist and his wlfa went aboard their nrlnu - r.m.in thera until tha end of hi tour In Mar. faced and tha typical role In look.. Mra. Bchelllng has a piquant face, reddlih brown hair and the expression of a Grnuze por- trait. She looks more French than Amer- 'cn - Mrs. Krelsler Is on the other hand typically American and specifically New ior in looks. Much of Mme. Padorewskla life was spent In Parle and her taste tn dress Is therefore mora Gallic than Polish. She was the wife n tnls country and acted as secretary to the pianist on his last previous visit to this country. She was born Baroness von Rosen. Mrs. Muck is the second wife of Karl Muck, conductor of the Boston Symphony orchestra, and undertook a difficult task when she went to succeed the wife of Will- lam Qerlcke, who had made herself very noDular durtnsr the vears of her stay In Boston, Tha wife of the man who haa tha responsibility of conducting the Bostdto Bymphony orchestra has her own duties, and Views the average, even In bar family of lofty women, .and affects a clasalo style of dressing. Her1 debut gown was a Greek robe of point d'esprlt. . Rule for Correct DreMlaac To be truly well bred, one's dress must be perfectly adapted to the function, work, etc., for which it Is being worn. Expen slveness Is by no means necessary, but suitability is Imperative. Tha cheapest lit tle cotton gown, if correctly fashioned, may be better form than a brocade or vel vet. In the street, no matter how blf one's Income may ' bo, conaplouousness must be avoided. There Is no better test of Innate refinement than the clothes a girl wears I. . ' ' i : 1 1 I Ml Lace and Fine Needlework on the New Sunshades T IS difficult for stay at homes ln this northern cllmato to feel enthusiastically interested In summer parasols, but the mer chants have been showing many novelties m this line for the edification of women going south, and the parasols have an Interest on ths prophetic side for all women. During tha last few seasons tha band embroidered parasol of linen or shear lin gerie material has attained great prestige, and If the early showing is to be trusted, these embroidered parasols will be pre eminently the chic thing when the season for sunshades actually arrives. Thanks to the cleverness of the designers, surprising variety is obtained even within tha limita tions of the white embroidered linen para sols, and the Intricate effects of mingled laces and embroideries which characterise the new linen robe patterns and early linen model frocks are echoed more or less defi nitely tn tha sunshades. Ons may have a parasol of fine, hand woven, rather heavy linen, on which open work embroidered heavy padded embroid ery, Cluny, Valonclennes and Irish laces are all mingled; yet so skilfully are these trimmings handled that the result Is a charming harmony in dee Urn. Naturally when real laces are used they, with tha hand embroidery, run tha prices up to high figures, but there are plenty Of simpler designs which, despite some band em broidery, are not extravagantly dear. A cover finished around tha edga with buttonholed scallops or with hem and wRh a design ln band embroidery repeated on each panel or on alternate panela may be elaborate or simple, costly or compara tively Inexpensive, according to tha pre tentiousness of the embroidery design; but a majority of tha mora elaborate parasols nave a panel design which, near the outer edge of tha parasol at least. Is of com plicated character. One model which Is deoldedly effective, though extremely high-priced, has a rising sun motif at the outer edge of each panel, tha pointed sua rays being formed by Inset potats of heavy laca, while tha half dUk of the sun Is of linen embroidered In closely set wafer dots. Another parasol bas tn each panel two inset motifs of real Cluny ahaped somewhat Ilka large palm leaves and surroaaiaed by heavy embroidery. Tha arrangement of tha Uee motifs will be understood free a study of tha sketch reproduced here. Many of the superb new flouncing a, mo tifs, bends, eta In which embroidery and lace are combined with such beautiful re sults suggest attractive parasol pesslblll tlas te tha clever designer, and wM0 for real elegance nothing takes the place of handwork upon tha cover material, we have seen applied motifs so cleverly handled that Its was almost Impossible to distinguish till 1118 . Si 111 iitrwvf--. jiliV i 11 . " , She must make herself popular In society and that Is not so nlmnla na it mav annnit Boston may be somewhat exigent when It comes to the wife of the conductor of Its musical organization and it takes a great of Progressive Women in Various Walks of Life downtownj and when one sees her among the shops arrayed as she might be for an afternoon call she indicates tha pres ence of vulgarity in her nature. Tha beat bred women, whose Incomes range In the hundred thousand annually, would not think of putting on any but plain tailor frocks for walking or shopping. As a rule the color Is dark, although gray is always permissible. White furs such women never put on save for dress occasions. High heel shoes are excessively bad form in the street. So is loud roslery. tery. Big, striking hats are for uptown when making afternoon calls. For shopping, or morning, small ones may be varied by those of medium size, but never of a style them from tha hand-embroidered designs. There Is a great liking this season for embroidery designs having certain motifs heavily outlined In embroidery but filled ln with Inset Valenciennes, filet, Cluny or drawn work. Even embroidered net Is k-Tl combined with the linen and lingerie materials In both parasols and e m -broidery trimming, and some lovely parasols, which ara doubtless but tha ad vance guard of a boat, are made of embroidered nets or of plain cream net shirred or tucked, and combined with 'exquisitely tine yel lowed motifs of em broidered batiste, In the best of these models the batiste Is embroidered by hand, but good reaults are obtained even ln tha leas costly embroid eries. One parasol of fine net In tha yel lowed tint of old laoe Is shirred closely around tha ferrule and at the border. In each panel Is set a lovely wreath of fine embroidery or batiste, tha color re peating exactly that as tha net A deli cate garland of simi lar embroidery forma a earring festoon de sign around tha bor der of tha parasol v- ' Geal of tact for the wife of the conductor tn mala tireir nnniiia- uaminiii Mrs. Muck has so, far accomplished the task. She is a writer, having already published. that might b worn to tha theater In tha evening. Perfect dressing for the street comes by following these general rules, and having each detail perfect; the shoes well blacked, with heels In good condition and all the buttons on; no holes In the veil. This face covering must be put on neatly. Let there be no holes In the gloves. A girl dressed Ilka this will look' well, even when beside another wearing velvets, for the former will have chic and style. Ln the house one should try always to wear something different from street cos tumes. Gowns of a previous summer make very pretty afternoon frocks, for they are light and simple, and by their quality give a pretty effect of dressiness. Darned filet net enters into the parasol field, and models ln pongee trimmed with motifs and bands of coarse filet with darned in design are numerous, the lace of course matching the body of the parasol ln color. Hand embroidered pongee, too, Is fa vored by the parasol designer, and many of the Ideaa carried out in the linen mod ale are echoed in the models of pongee. The embroidered dot. simplest of all embroidery designs. f"v l V- v ' :V - T ' - . : v.. z. j : taiirr, t, w - i i-a; . '. .'.'V : mil 2&sf. LINEN PARASOLS WITH CL.UNT tACB AND HAND EMB HO 1 D Eft Y. '".-V A ' X a book of travel. She was so aiu.Uui to n H.ih & murii., hr -i.- nnnniiinii her' husband to accept the offer from Bos- ton. Her idea, as she explained It to C. A. Ellis, was that It would be possible for her Even If It Is only to put on a fresh waist, one should always make some change for a late dinner .or supper at home. When putting on a house dress, heavy shoes must be changed for lighter ones, or for slippers. Any frock that Is used for .the house Is suitable, for a theater ln the evening, If one has a long coat to wear over It In the street cars. A cloth suit with light waist Is also good form for such occasions. One's dressiest hat may be worn with such at tire. At public balls or any club dance given ln a hall. It is not good form to wear decol lete gown. One cut high neck, but having a transparent gulmpe, such as lace or chiffon, Is prettiest, and If the sleeves are can be used to surprising ad vantage In parasol designs, and there Is no reason why any woman who can use a needle skillfully need go without her hand embroidered parasol, If she is willing to expend a little time and effort upon securing it. As matter of fact, we are told that many beautiful embroidered covers are brought to tha shops to be made up, and we know of at least two cases In which clever girls have bought plain parasols ready made and are em broidering them in effective dot designs. Naturally this list method offers diffi culties ln the line of stamping, and a com plicated embroidery could not well be handled In this jnanner, but little ingenuity Is demanded for the accurate stenciling of a simple design lij large dots. Colored dots on white or white dots on color are chic -with linen frocks to match, end where so violent a color contrast Is not 1.s!red, good results are obtained by em broidering the dots ln the same color as the foundation, but encircling each with a narrow ring of contrasting color. A para sol of white linen, for example, may have a deep border of heavy white dots outlined ln heavy lines of rote or delft blue on leather brown; and so may match a certain costume without being made too pro nounced In color to be generally useful. Judging from the new cotton and linen materials, considerable will be done next summer with the soft browns which have been popular this winter, the leather, burnt breai! and similar shades being charm ingly combined with white, ecru and straw colors. A few parasols in the early show ing are designed to accompany frocks of such coloring. One tn a yellowish white linen, with scal lop ede and embroidered motifs of leather brown, Is exceedingly smart. Among the sheer lingerie parasols hand embroidery Is again the keynote of ele gance, and without It a parasol of this particular type has little cachet, no. matter how much lace may be lavished upon it A pretty Idea carried out In some of tha advance models gives a double cover ef fect, a garland design of fine embroidery and a little plaited frill of Valenciennes which border the oover being repeated half way between border and ferrule, after the fashion Indicated ln one of the sketches. Mnalrlpal Lodging IIeae. Mary Boyle O'Reilly has engaged In tha task of reforming ti e lodeings of Boston. She Is a member of the Slate Board of Prison Commissioners and Is the sympa thetic friend of hundreds of unfortunate women ln the penal Institutions, from whom she haa tried to learn the secret of their downfall. Bhe would have the mu nicipal authorities provide for the super vision of lodging houses. Many women have to come to sorrow, she say a, through the evils of the present system i . v .. 1 a g . . . . "Slnca then I've done foot ball games, as I learned to understand that game while I was a high school student end subse to go any Friday down to Brazil and stop quently during my college work at the there until It was time to go back on Mon- University of Colorado. I believe I'vs day. Mr. Ellis was so anxious to have Dr. Muck accept the place In Boston that he did not make any effort to enlighten her as to the difference between the facts and her Idea of South American geography. Mrs. Muck later decided not to accompany her husband to the United States, but changed her mind at the last minute and Is now thorourhlv at homo In Boston. where It Is probable that she will be for some years to come, as Dr. Muck has re- considered his Idea of returning to Berlin short, long gloves will be necessary. TThst avar kind of glovea are .selected, must be kept on during the entire evening. One's hat should be removed. Any pretty little frill, such as a fancy neck piece, light boa, or silk shawl, is both pretty and useful at such a time. Women tn Clerical Positions. "For lady clerks thera seems to be less demand than formerly," states the report of the employment departnient of the Lon don Chamber of Commerce dealing with the condition of the clerical labor market dur ing the closing quarter of last year. The manager of an Important London business, on being asked last night whether he could give any explanation of the declin ing popularity of lady clerks noted by ths Chamber ef Commerce stated that his ex perience was that many lady clerks looked for a great deal of consideration. They ex pected to be paid as men and to be treated as women. They disliked being taken to task, when they did their work Indifferently and were too fond of appealing to the chiv alry of the mere male. Another business manager thought that the standard of attainments required had risen of recent years and many of the lady clerks' in the market were not up to it. He1 said that he found that woman did routine work well but showed little or no lnltatlve. and when set any task which was compli cated or which Involved much thought they were apt to fall, with a few brilliant exceptions. On the other hand it is worth notice that the general post office makes great and In creasing use of lady clerks for work Involv ing considerable responsibility. Thus the Savings Bank department at West Kensing ton Is largely staffed by women, and Its heads have repeatedly testified to their ; competence and efficiency ln carry out duties which demand a high degree of ac curacy. What Wosoee Are Doing. There are only three women In the world whOka fortunes are said to exceed !ju.(mi.io, and these are Bertha Krupp of Germany, Hetty Green and Anna Welghtman Walker of the United States. Rev. H. M. Tynuall, pastor of the Peo ple's Tabetiiacle in New York, bas had erected a hotel for young women employed, which is said to be a model of its kind. It Is a six-story building, with fifty-six sleeping rooms and twelve baths. The irlces range from 12.50 to 16 a week, accord n to the room, and only "girls" under ii are taken. Miss Juana Palaclos, head of the depart ment of psychology in the normal school at Puebla. Mexico, Is making a trip through this coenttry for the purpose of Investigat ing the teaching of morals In the public schools of the United States. She Is sent by the government of Mexico, with a view Of introducing ethical teaching ln the pub lic schools of that country. A curious distinction belongs to Miss Elis abeth M. KUbourne of Wlnsted, Conn. Hhe PERFECT sUscd by people of refinement Esttbluhed la 1 666 by and hopaa to receive still longer leave vf al'senre. one of the duties of tha wife of tha con ductor of the Boston Symphony orchestra Is to Join several Women's clubs and stie must also become member of some of the gymnasium classes as wall as attending a certain number of lectures. If she fulfils these requlrments and makes herself other wise pleasant she I likely to have a very good time In Boston. As Mrs. Muck says she Is devoted to Boston, the degree of her success Is easy to understand. Woman Sporting Editor The Trtnldat (Col.) Evening Chronicle News, la. In one respect, distinguished above all other newspapers In the United Slates In that It haa a young woman sport ing editor. There are now few dally .newspapers upon which women are not employed In one capacity or another as compositors, linotype operators, reporters, fashion writ ers and editors of departments, but only one can boast of having attached to Its staff a young woman who has tha requi site knowledge and skill to cower base iiull and foot ball games, horse races and athletic sports of various kinds. Tho young woman she Is only M years old who holds down the sporting editor's desk on the Chronicle-News so well that the applications of male candidates for tha Job are never considered, Is Miss Ina Elolee Young. When she was asked to tell how It hap pened she said: ' "I have been doing newspaper work for three years general reporting, and cover Ing everything from a fire to a suicide, "It was by accident that I became sport luucilltor of my paper two years ago. At the opening of the base ball season, which. In the west. Is the only real sporting sea son of the year, there was not a man on the paper who could even keep a bog score or knew practically anything of tha gane. I tin know base ball, for I learned it about tha time when boys of my age lenrn to piny bull. My brother taught me the game because he always needed some body to fill a base or some position, and Z could do It. "When I grew up he taught me how to keep score and I evolved a method of my own of following tho players from home plate around to that station again If they could do it "I began covering games to fill In until a man could be secured for the position, and have been doing It ever slnoe, the managing editor considering my work sufficiently good to guarantee keeping me. covered all sorts of sporting events with the exception of prise fights, which I hava never been required to do. "Understanding base ball and liking It best, I naturally do. my best work with those gomes. I love to do horse races, however, but as there have been no races here for more than a year, I have grown a trlflo rusty In that kind of work. ''I ride horseback, but all western girls do that. In covering events that happen In tha mining camps around here a horse Is tha quickest mehtod of transportation." claims to be the first woman who ever took a stitch on a sewing machine. She was formerly a teacher in Hartford, where she visited Riles Howe's shop and was given a chance to try hie new invention. He told her she was the first of her sea to use the machine which has done so much to relieve the household toll of women. Emlle Berliner of Washington. D. C, has given I12,60u to endow a fellowship for women who have demonstrated their abil ity to carry on research work ln physics, chemistry or biology. The foundation will bn known as the Sarah Berliner Research Fellowship for Women, named ln honor of the mother of the donor. The awards are to be made by a committee of women, of which Mrs. Christine l.Hild Franklin of Baltimore Is to be the chairman. Mrs. Frank H. Parker of Maiden, Mass., has gone with her husband to take up her permanent residence in the leper colony on the Island of Prnlkese. Dr. Parker was recently appointed superintendent of the colony. He lias for a long time been a student of the disease and Is firmly con vinced thta he can greatly relieve the suf ferers. It Is said thut before accepting tha appointment he consulted with his wife, ex pecting her to oppose his acceptance be cause of the separation which It would entail. Much to l.is surprise, she was not only willing for him to go, but, further, In sisted on accompanying him. s Lesrra From Fashion's Notebook, It Is fashionable to wear a scarf a couple of yards long and of a pale sliver tone. Its maerlal Is a heavy chiffon or a silk mull. Several novelty features have been In troduced Into the new. season's waists. Mulls, batistes, Swisses, barred, striped and figured are. In the lead. The sheer one . only, of course, serves for dressy wear. Ths color note is another point. Doubtless the comfortable and cool low shoe will come In next summer, but Just now the fancy Is for the very high boot, and the most elaborate tops ere worn with patent lent her vamps and with plain black leather lowers. Chiffon shawls are liked by women who prefer always to throw something over the shoulders: and a wedding present to a popular hrlde consisted of half a dozen elegent chiffon scarfs in various shades of violet, cream, pale green and blue, with borders widely and beautifully worked ln every color under the sun. The border Is, of course, very delicate In Its tints, so as to harmonize with the dellcaoy of the chiffon. I.lnen dresses are to be elaborately em broidered, but the embroidery Is a matter of taste. One can work tiny conventional dots or one can gi Into the elaborate pad ded embroideries where the roses are stuffed and made simply elegant with silk centers and with marvelous leaves veined with gold or yellow. One's embroideries are so largely a matter of taste and purse that It Is almost unnecessary to offer ad vice regarding them. Lovely long lace yokes oome for use In the black velvet dresses and In the various gowns that have open yokes. These lace yokes are so long that thy reach right to the waist line In the middle of the front. They are round upon the shoulders and they fasten In the back. The points In the back are so long that they touch the belt. Thev are beautiful affairs, these long pointed yokes of lace, and the woman who plans her gowns well will Include at least one good yoke In her stock. It can be worn for so many oocaslons, and it always looks well. 3