THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: DECEMBER 15, 1907. i i Comfort in Motor Coats for Winter Use (mbmhbOLD weather fall to daunt an 1 tbuslsstic motor folk, and even I upon the mtirt wintry days that ml season, open touring cara have divided honor with limousine cara on the city streets and have had things pretty much their own way on the country road a. , There are even hardly motor women who maintain stoutly that the sport la mora exhilarating In winter than In summer; and, certainly, If a woman Is apprprlately dressed for a cold weather spin ahe should suffer little from the cold. If at all. The manufacturers of motor apparel have bent every effort toward the design ing and making of outfits that shall defy the frosty air, and not anly warm coats and caps and hoods, but a host of minor accessories are offered by the makers of motor garments. High fleece lined boots or gaiters run up to meet silk bloomers lined with flannel or albatross. Separate woolen sleeves or long armlets help to protect the arms Inad equately covered by short sleeves or njt sufficiently warm In long sleeves of silk or cotton. Sweaters and waistcoats In all degrees of warmth and In surprising variety are In the market. One may have an ordinary sweater cut down at tlio throat or. If more warmth acros tho chest and throat Is de sired, there are knitted sweaters buttoning down the left front from the shoulder and made with standing collar opening on the Id. Certain English sweater models are of knitted wool, buttoning double brcasltd from ahoulders to hem and not cut down at the throat. A straight standing collar of soft leather, leather cuffs and leather cov ered buttons trim the garment effectively and In some models a leather belt Is ad ded. Waistcoats of leather and of supple, short hair fur are numerous and are either Sleeveless or made with sleeves of silk. An English coat of heavy rough tweed has Instead of a walKtcoat to supplement Its warmth on very cold days a loose short coat of flexible leather, cut upon the same lines as the long outer coat and fastening into It with snap catches so that when in place It Is really a leather lining for the body part of the coat. This coat, worn with and without the leather lining, an swers for varying degrees of temperature and Is an excellent garment for touring. Coats of the Inverness type with heavy capes are comfortably warm, and though there Is a general rule that capes, like all things calculated to blow and need fold ing, ars a mistake In motor apparel, some of the lieuvy winter cape coats have capes which strap or button down so snugly that they are sure to stay In place, and these capes do furnish a very acceptable extra warmth. Some of these warm tweed coats have hoods which may be drawn up over the head, protecting neck and ears in very severe weather, but the average woman, if Activities Psmpcrlni American Girls. HE editor of the Century Maw TT I sine has a grievance against I I fashionable society and boldly 1 I .1 1. I o llfptilntf In 1.11 Kl 1. llinb .v ao iiikb w spoil the American girl." "Tho Importance of the young . woman In American society," says the Century, "I out of all proportion to hor achievements, and naturally, where such Importance la the rule, the social tone, however 'say,' Is untntellectual and devoid of the mellowness which makes the for mal intercourse of human beings an In stitution. Instead of being taught in child hood that her business Is to serve, and that her only chance of happiness is in service, she la virtually taught that every thing must be done for her. The rewards of a woman's existence love, respect, de ferenceare thus placed at the wrong, end of life. To begin with, the aense of values is lost by the profusion of Christmas, 1 Easter and birthday presents showered I upon her every year. As Whately said of V literary style, 'He who accentuates every thing accentuates nothing.' "In such extravagance the beauty of simplicity disappears, and besides the' lux ury of such a girlhood the gifts of na ture and of common human life lose their preclouaness. A glerlous sunset, the nightly miracle of stars, the treasures of noble poetry the heritage of human kind what are these to roost debutantes com pared with a spectacle of colored lights at the theater T Space falls to follow up the theme to apeak, for instance, of the approximation of the life of girls to that of their elders In dress and entertainments, which la but a part of the lavish and unappreciated Idolatry that attends from cradle to altar none the less a monstrous folly that is committed In the name of parental love." A Office for Mrs. Field. Because her ideas are very much in ad- ; vance of anybody who has previously at tempted the work, Mrs. Marshall Field. widow of the famous merchant prince, haa obtained an appointment as head of the clvlo health commission of the city of Chi cago, with the entire charge of a new bureau of milk Inspection. Now she promises the aafe-guardlng of the health of the citizens of the western metropolis and the saving of the lives of hundreds of . Infants who yearly die through the use of Impure and adulerated milk. She will do this even if It is necessary to bring Into play a large part of her enormous wealth of t6o.ooj.ooa When Mrs. Field pledged herself to this work, there was n gasp of surprise from society all over the world. Known every where, a natural leader, and by reason of her personal char;. is and her great wraith ivory, Pearl, Gold. Silver and Scented Woo ds All BOMS Or TXS TatlVOS UffSD FOB HAJf DIiEB 0 TEH riMOVI PICKERING UMBRELLAS MASS AJTO SOX.S OVX.T ST ED. F. PICKERING GLOVES AND UMBRELLAS 105 S.uth 16th St. Omaha. Ne)V IS Tears U Tain location. ha wears a hood at all. usually pre fers to have It sep arate from her coat fitting down snugly under an upturned coat collar. Apropos of hoods, a couple of pretty girls created a sen sation at a fashion able hotel In West Chicago when they fUr mmSm t i AUTOMOBILE) COATS OF PONT SKIN LINED. stopped there for luncheon on a recent Sunday. The day was cold, but there was, as usual, a long line of handsome cars drawn up along the driveway and more coming In swift procession up the hill. Suddenly the crowd of Interested onlook ers saw a high power roadster come whir ling along the driveway. On the rumble was a chauffeur clad from top to toe in brown leather. A woman was driving, .and beside her sat another woman, evidently her sister. Both wore superb coat of remarkably handsome natural mink reaching to their ankle and entirely covering their frock. and Views amply qualified for social pre-eminence It was expected - that ahe would return to the brilliant rounda of social events, from which she had separated herself when Mar shall Field died, eighteen months ago. Mrs. Field has been presented at several Buropean courts and Is a familiar figure at European watering places frequented by royalty. Her nephew, Spenoer Eddy, la sec retary of the United States embassy at Berlin. Mrs. Field has a love for fine horses and has exhibited her thoroughbreda In almoat every big ahow In America. She la daring to a degree. A year ago she made the attempt to climb Mount St. Morits, a 6.700-foot peak, in the Alps, a feat never accomplished. They almost suc ceeded in reaching the top, through dan gers that would have daunted the ordinary man. Her Children's Faces la Gold. A few years ago Daniel O'Day, one of the Standard oil millionaires, wanted to get a Christmas gift for his wife that would be absolutely unique. It was to be something in the way of Jewelry. Being a man of good taste, costly stones set in a showy way the aort of thing most rich men are pleased to see on their wives did not appeal to him. So he asked Rich ard Brooks, a- sculptor, to design - him something original and artistic. The re sults is the necklace, composed of medallion portraits in yellow gold of the alx O'Day children eoch portrait on a 22-carat discs about the slse ef a nickel. Five of the medallions are Joined together by oddly wrought links of reddish gold, while the sixth that of the youngest child hangs from a chain In which the monogram O D appears. Not a precloua stone In It only the gems of which the Roman Cornelia boasted. Yet these few ounces of gold are well worth $6,000, because the artist has given them not only that perfection of form that characterised the personal wnament of the ancient Greeks and Etruscans, but has made of them besides a strikingly beautiful group of family portraits. The neckiaoe accomplishes the highest Ideal of the jeweler to produce the great est amount of beauty in the most limited space. It is equal to the best work of the eighteenth century, when small objects for personal adorment reached their utmost re finement of designs. The little portraits are remarkable examples of exquisite mod eling and breadth of workmanship. Heroine of GsJveston Flood. Mother Mary Joseph, superioress of the Southern Province of Vrsuline Nuns, at Galveston, who recently waa made the head of the English-speaking Ursulines, with headquarters In Rome, was one of the con spicuous heroines of the great etorm which devastated the Texas city aad lta vicinity The coats were loose, ample, luxu rious, and made with hoods o'f tho fur, which were pulled up over the wearers' heads, fit ting closely around the face and throat and fastened snugly Under the chin. Gloves of same fur completed the AND CLOTH, FUR TRIMMED AND costumes and the big fur robe Was of mink, matching the coats. The tout en semble was as fetching as It was extrava gant, and nothing In the costume line to rival these ambitious but comfortable out fits has been seen at the hotel this season. Some exceedingly good motor coats In brown caracul and In gray caracul are being worn. Like all the motor coats, they are long and loose, and some of the smart est models, Instead of having the ordinary double breasted fronts, fasten far to the left side, thus allowing a double thickness over tho chest, with no possibility that cold can penetrate through the opening. of Progressive Women in Various Walks of Life on the night of September 8, 15KX). Tho Ursullne academy, over which she presided, relates the Kansas City Journal, stands close to the gulf shore, on Galveston is land, and afforded refuge to hundreds of people from the battle of tho elements which cost the. lives of nearly 10,000 human beings. The big structure was the scene of wild excitement. Men who, stripped of their clothing by tho fury of wind and waves, sought shelter there, were clad in the gowns of the nuns, and those who were not too demoralized assisted in the care of of the Injured. Several children were born beneath tho roof of the academy during the night. One man, whose home and family had been swept away, and who had been washed up to the windows of the building and rescued, heard a noise outside the window of the room In which he had been placed, and, Investigating, found a bath tub containing a woman and a baby. They proved to be his wife and child, who had bean swept out Into the gulf and then brought back again and providentially thrown almost Into his arms. For weeks Mother Mary Joseph labored among the people of the stricken city, end during all that time, unlike many of the prominent men of the city, she kept herhead and went about her work calmly and expedi tiously as If the circumstances were quite ordinary. No history of the fearful dlsas-' ter that does not give her a very largo share of credit is complete. Queens Larger Than Kings. The kings and emperors of today are all, as a rule, smaller than their queens and empresses. Whether or not the royal and Imperial women, because of their larger stature, are enabled to sway the minds of their con sorts cannot, of course, bo salJ. but every one knows that In most arguments the tall est person usually has the advantage when it is a "stand-up conversation." Queen Alexandra, as all who have seen their photos are aware, Is taller than King Edward. The king of Italy, who is the smallest man upon a throne today, scarcely reaches to the shoulders of his queen, who comes of the Montenegrin family, all rugged and well developed. King Carlos of Portugal lina to 'Hook up" to his consort, and this can also be said In regard to the king and queen of Denmark. And, as for the queen of Spain and the queen of Romana, while they do not find it possible to "look down" on their kings, they at least are as tall. Gems to Male! Costumes. In the old days one could count upon one's lingers the varieties of precious stones that women wore. Diamonds, pearls, rubles, garnets, emeralds, and a few others these were all. Kven the richest women had comparstlvely few ornaments; the notion of having different necklaces and clasps and bracelets and tiaras to match different costumes had never entered any body's head. Nowadays all that Is chang ing. Women, through travel and the study of artistic objects, and all the advsntaseS that wealth gives, are growing more artis tic. It is not enough now to have splendid ornaments. They want the ornament to suit the gown. Seml-preelous stones, consequently, are being used more and more, reports the New York Tribune. Without them It would lie Impossible to match til the new shades now seen In women's costumes, and to please his customers the fashionable jeweler must do thai. In Paris and Vienna and Perlrn. the three great fountains of biauty In dress, the matter of matching fabrics with semi-precious stones is being made an art. . The innovation Is an excellent thing for America commercially, it is said, fur this country produces any number of the semi precious stones. There Is the California stone, , the tourmaline, which is found In various shades of pinks and yellows and greens, from llrfht to dark, and from bluish green to bottle green and even In reds and browns, perfect matches for some of the new shades in broadcloth and velvet. An Ameiiean stone that is successf ully used with green costume is the chlorastrolite. which lias a peculiar sage green mottled effect. For pink gowns there is the Thomp- Tills side fastening In one form or an other Is In high favor with the coat de signers, and excellent effects In appearance as well as In comfort are obtained In this way. The brown cloth fur lined coat pic tured among the sketches Is an example of the possibilities In this side fastening and Is In all Its details a particularly ad mirable model. I'lain colored cloth coats of this general type, with fur lining or warm lnterwaddlng and big collars of long hair fur, are ex tremely elegant when well made and in handsome materials. Royal bluo, a warm and vivid yet deep red, gray In the taupe and other deep shades and the browns are the colors most liked for those plain coats, and Instead of smooth cloth broad walo serge or cheviot of handsome quality la sometimes preferred. The plain colors will not, of course, give such service as the mixed tweeds and cheviot, since they show soil and wear more readily; and while no mixed check or plaid has quite the elegance of a fine one tone material some of these checked and plain coats are extremely chic, and nothing Is so practical for all around ser vice. Fur coats, while Ideal for the coldest weather, are out of the question for other wear, while the stuff coats may be re-enforced by sweater or waistcoat for the coldest days and worn without the un dergarment when the temperature relaxes. To the fur lined tweeds this rule does not, of course, arply. Nothing really new In motor furs has appeared, but all the old favorites arc made up Into attractive coats, and as has been said, the soft brown and gray cara culs are popular. These caracul coats are sometimes trimmed In self-tone braid with good effect, and the models sketeched her had binding of braid. Another relieving note was provided In the big buttons of brown cloth embroidered In vivid green. Deer at 9100 a Glass. Jack Frederick 1b a mining promoter of Wallace, Idaho,. On Saturday several St. Paul men who have become Interested In mining properties exploited by Frederick arrived in Wallace, and until after mid night were closeted with Frederick. At the conclusion of the consultation Frederick Invited the Investors to have a glass of beer. At the Wallace hotel they found the lock was on tight. Frederick then bought the bar for $5,000, giving a check therefor. The party of mining men then filed Into the bar room. There were Just five glasses of beer passed over the bar. Then the party passed out. "Do you want to buy a first-class bar?" asked Frederick, approaching Mr. Simon son, proprietor of the hotel. "I'll give M.M0 for the place," was the reply. "It's yours." and forthwith the check was returned to Frederick, who gave Sim onson' a $500 bill. When you have anything to sell adver tise It In The Bee Want Ad Columns. sonlte, a pink mottled stone found on the shores of Lake Superior and Just beginning to be known. Montana sapphires, which are considered remarkable for their purity and uniformity of color and have the admirable quality of not( costing too much, are popular with women who dress much In blue. Nothing is a more perfect match for electric blue than a Montana sapphire. For evening coa tumes aquamarines, of which many are found in North Carolina, are used a great deal. They suit the palest, tints, delicate blues and green, and especially do they harmonise with the blues In which there Is a faint green tinge. ' For gowns of red orj black there Is the copperlte, which goes fcvell with either of those colors or with green. Sodallte har monizes with the Delft blue shades that are worn so much now. Rutilated quartz, a faintly colored tan stone, is exceedingly pretty with evening gowns of light cham pagne. For the new old rose shade there Is the sunstone, of a sort of brownish pink. Corals are rather out of favor at present, but they have rare shades for matching velvet and broadcloth. There Is even a stone to be worn with the chocks and plaids so much In vogue now. It is the chlastollto, a variety of andaluslte, and it has a curious checked appearance bands of a tannlsh shade across the brownish or blackish foundation making it look exactly as if nature had manufactured It to "go with" the popular Scotch plaids. Woman's Dally Sacrifices. "I suppose that tyrant man got his good and plenty?" ventured the clubwoman's husband, as his spouse drew off her long gloves and removed htr hat. "I wlbli you wouldn't talk slang, my dear," Faid hlH wife. "You know perfectly Well that It always offends me, yet you persist in doing it. Mrs. Glllipen made a very eloquent address. I presume that is what you are asking about. You always sneer at everything she says, I know." . "I bey your pardon, my dtar. I wouldn't sneer at her for words. But she does may I soy 'hammer' us? Well, she hits us rather hard, doesn't she?" "Don't you think she is justified in hit ting you?" "Why?" "Do you think we ought to submit meekly to be trampled on and never strike a blow In our own defense? Do you think a woman ought to be satisfied to be a slave and a puppet and npt make th'- slightest effort to burst the trammels that your sex has been winding about her from the beginning of time?" "Did she say that?" "You know it's true, whoever said It. A woman's .life is one perpetual sacrifice to the wishes or caprices of the man she marries." "That's not so bad." raid the man. "Is your life a sacrifice to me?" "You know I wouldn't like to hurt your feelings, my ilear." "Well, Is It?" "I think every woman's Is." "How about a man's life being a per petual sacrifice to the whims and wishes of the woman he marries?" "Is yours?" "Every man's is." "I like that," said the clubwoman. "Will you tall ir.e a single Instance of your sacrifice?" "Well, look at me now, sitting here with my feet on the rug." "I think by the look of them that you might have wiped them a little more care fully when you came in." "I did wipe them," said the man. "I ?on't see what is the use of brooms and carpet sweepers If a little dirt Isn't going to be brought into the mouse once In a while. But the point I mas trying to make Is that several times since I have been sit ting here I hove felt a strong inclination to put my feet on tho table." "James!" "Oh. I know, I know you object to It. That's the only reason I'm not putting them where they would feel comfortable. I sacrifice my comfort to your withes. I consider your prejudices." "You call that a prejudice, do you?" "I don't know what else you would call It. After a while, if we go to that fool concert, I suppose I shall have to out on a f The Besta"d Easiesl Solution 5) ) ClffMiias Presort A good Violin, including bow and extra strings $1.50 and Up A fine Mandolin, with good ease and strings $5.25 and Up A genuine Rosewood Guitar, full guaranteed $7.00 and Up Band Instruments, Fifes and Drums, as low ns ; 75c Accordeons, direct importation from Germany, Italy and Bohemia; from 75c up to $35.00 Mira and Regina Music Boxes, all sizes, latest styles, with changeable tunes, low as $10.00 Mouth Harps, with bell attachments ami pipeoleons, the greatest mouth harp ever nianufac- tured , f or and you can hear a Victor any dav in our salesrooms. THIS WEEK, THIS GREAT OFFER: NOTHING DOWN We offer to sell you a Victor Talking Machine on the condition that you pay for the Records only and begin to pay for the Victor 30 days later. Then easy monthly payments. Victors: $10, $30, $50 1 Victor Victrolas: $200 15,000 Beautiful New Records Wholesale A - MO SIP IE (HO. Retail Write lor Illustrated Catalogue. 14313 Douglas St. Omaha, fSJcb. dress suit and a collar that chokes me. I can't do anything that I reailly want to do half the time. Isn't all that sacrifice?" "You didn't seem to object to wearing a dress suit or going to concerts with me be fore we were married," said his wife. "And I'm aure I never saw you put your feet on the table. If I had I'm quite sure I never would have married you." "I know," said the man. "That's why I sacrificed myself to your whims." "You weren't obliged to. If it, was such a sacrifice you needn't have married me." "Well." Bald the man, "I gurss you weren't clubbed and dragged to the altar and neither waa Mrs. Glllipen, If I know her husband. I guess if you come right down to It It'a about a stand-off." Florenee Xlajh tin gale. , "At the age of 87." says the New York Evening Post. "Florence Nightingale has been made a member of the Order of Merit, Instituted In 1902 by Edward VII. as a re ward for conspicuous publip service. Miss Nightingale-should be at home In the dis tinguished company to which she has been admitted. Lord Roberts, Lord Kitchener, Marquis Oyama, Admiral Toro and Lord Lister are In a position to discourse with Interest and authority on the subject of the infliction and cure of gun shot wounds, though possibly the Angel of the Crimea may find herself a little behind the times on either phase of the art of war. She cannot expect to enjoy her new dignity for many yeara to come. If "enjoy"' Is the proper word at all to use of a woman who at the age of 36 refused: to receive the public honora offered her by the British people, and. hor work done, fled surrep titiously to her quiet country home. Her nomination, however. Is a precedent. Her place In the Order of Merit will be taken. In the course of time, by some other Eng lishwomanwhether by a woman of the Flcrence Nightingale type or the author of the "Intensely renllstlc" novel of the season, we do not pretend to foretell. To the world at' large Florence Nightingale's appearance In the newspaper cvlumns must have come with a shock at the fact that one whose fame already eanka among the Immortals should still be among us. More fortunate than Tolstoy or Salvlnl, as fortu nate as Adelaide Rlstori, whose recent death only brought the public gaze upon her, the new member of the Order of Merit has been able to live her life far from the Sunday cablegram and the apeclal supple ment." Educating Women for Women's Work. "Higher education In the future," writes President Eliot of Harvard in Leslie's Weekly, "should recognize the fact that tho majority of women take up the occupation of training children, the married ones as mothers and many of the unmarried ones In the interest of mothers. Training chil dren is the normal occupation of woman and its importance In education has prob ably not been recognized because It hus not hitherto been regarded as an Intel lectual pursuit. Yet, it Is the mod In tellectual occupation In the world. In no matter what walk of life. It calls always for great moral and carefully trained mental powers. 'What a great power a reading mother has to train the minds of her children! This normal occupation of woman should be tho main object hence forth In the education of women and no longer should her education be a mere Imi tation of that of the man. On such a basis I believe higher education will truly per fect the home life and household Joy. It Is certainly not the chief end of a woman s life to enter man's occupation, aa was in tended when higher education was advo cated for her. It U high time that that Idea of an education for !. r v. ai doned and that the aim should be to de velop In woman the cupacUy a..u ...rf powers that fit her to make life fuller of Intellectual enjoyment and happiness, more productive, physically, mentally and spiritu ally." t hat Abont Women. . Sarah Bernhardt, It is said, has for yers had everything ready for her bjilul, even to the canket, which, by the way, they say she sometimes sleeps lu. There Is at least one New Yoik wumau who has of me-- $1.50 A lino largo Victor Talking Machine 'gives both the sweetest and most catchy of music. It plavs loud enough for dancing and yet brings before you the LIVING VOICES of Caruso,, Melba and all tho great singers in their delicacy as well as their power. "Vic tor Quality" is the full, large, clear musical tone found only in Victor lalking Machine with Victor Kecords. s Believing practically done the same, except perhaps as to the coffin. Possessing in her own right a fortune of 2,000,000, Miss Nellie Huntington of Cleve land, p., daughter of a late Standard Oil magnate, lias forsaken society and Is do. voting her time to the teaching of claFges of girls in a social settlement at Cleve land. Miss Huntington has lately been in structing her pupils how to make the most of life In a flat. A pretty southern girl in an eastern city showed herself a match for the curiously minded women In her boarding house who were bent on knowing what her father's business was. As a matter of fact he was an undertaker, but the girl was a bit sensitive on this point, so she made up her mind not to gratify their curiosity. When unduly pressed on the point she an swered: "He's a southern planter." There Is no record of any trade school for the blind In the United States where such a graceful handicraft Is taught, but at the "Dayton association for the im provement of the blind" lately organized at Dayton, O., a shop has been opened in the arcade, in charge of blind men and women, where brooms, willow baskets, and other things made by tho men, and embroidery, fancy work and small baskets, the work of the women, are for sale. Dif ferent men and women are put In charge of the shop every day, and there Is tile day's wages and the excitement of shop tending in the business part of the city, which As much prized. Milwaukee club women have Just about a bo win f acquaintance with the stork. They mlht know the skinny old bird from a canary If they saw him. On or two members of each of the ten most promi nent .women's clubs In Milwaukee were asked to ascertain the number of babies born to members of their club during1 the last year. They did It, and when they had finished some of them were ashamed to tell what they had found. There are 1.021 women In those ten clubs, and In the last year Just fourteen babies have been horn among them. Rven then a pair of twins Is counted as two. Tho ten clubs Include the leading women of the city. Leaves from Fashion's Notebook. Hand-pnlnted slippers with sprays of roses nnd ferns, are In favor. In the way of mourning cloths, paramat tas, vicuna cloth. surKe or any of the dull fabrkji are suitable for this purpose. Dork colors as a rule prevail, but one of the little fancies Is tlio all-black or the St7 : Casrn ll!MmmMm ? xi ffek all-yellow gown. Women are at last awak ening to the fact that yellow Is a remark able color. It Is unusually becoming. It Is a well-spring of youth, and It la the most charming of all hues for evening wear. The new hats are larger than ever. They are dish shaped and the inner side Is like that of a bell. Indeed, there are many hats which exactly resemble a bell in shape. They are large and round and the under side Is hollow, so to speak. The crown is high and almost peaked and the effect is bell-like In each particular. There are spreading black velvet hats wllth six big roses upon the side; only this and nothing more. And the woman who Is looking a little toward economy will purchase one of theso big spreading black velevet hats and will trim It for herself. She must buy six of the handsom est roses to be purchased anywhere and she must fasten them so that they stand very high on the hat. She will need no other trimming. It Is the thing to have the roses differ. The fad for carrying out the color scheme to the most minute detail has removed the white kid from its position of tho uni versal dress glove, except with all whit a costumes. But they are struggling to hold their own, and for duv time wear have reached a compromise which U absolutely novel. The white glove has a guantlet which Is folded over to display a lining of the snme shade as the gown, or coat, and a single button covered with the colored kid. There Is a great fancy for the military sleeve, not only for coats, but for really elaborate costumes. This sleeve reaches Just over the elbow, Is only slightly gath ered at the top, and, although In reality, it is slightly shaped to the arm, it appears to be merely tapered toward the bottom, where It la finished with the military cuff. The sleeve Itself Is lnvarlubly plain, but the cuff, which may vary In depth from three to seven Inches, offers an excuse fur any amount of decoration. Kven mourning garb is not exempt from the picturesque effect that characterizes the present trend of styles, and there Is a marked aversion to the exaggerated use of crape. The crape, however, of today Is quite a different material from that stiff, ungraceful, uncompromising stuff originally known, und which was so suggestive of the best back parlor with Its closed blind opened only on such occasions as funeruls and weddings. The new crapes are beau tiful, with a soft, silky lustre, unubtruxlve as to be quite fitting, ami yet without that deadly sombreness that always guve one uncanny shivers to aee It suddenly. Surprises in Boys Clothes COMEHOW we never hear 5 of any good boys-they are all hard to keep In at the elbowa and the knwa. So all our boys' clothes are made for husky chaps. Mrs. Jane Hopkins' Boy Proof Clothes ffj have more strength and ' more quality for less price than you'd think possible. Spec ially designed, and made to resist stress and strain. Very modish, too really uppish, in style, but decidedly downlsh In price. If your deahr hatnU these clohes tn t ck, we'ii yludly direct you to one t who hot. Send 10 ctnt$ in it amp $ j'ir let of Clever Colkye I'oittrt ready to rum. Smith fiifi