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THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: OCTOBER 27, 1007.
Viterbo the Unchanged and Its Atmosphere of Mediaeval Mustiness
,0MB, Oct. 1. If you want to mm
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what an Italian town of the
middle eges waa 111: go to
Viterbo. The city retain today
all It medieval characteristics
and . modern Droare and in.
fluence have practically failed to change
Its aspect.
Viterbo I moreover the birthplace of
Santa Roia, who obtained her position aa
Patroness of the city rather through poli
tico than piety. Her feast, which Is cele
brated on Heptember 4. la one of the moat
characteristic In Italy.
Santa Rosa was not a professed nun but
only a Franciscan tertiary Bhe was born
In the beginning of the thirteenth century
when. ' Viterbo was under the oppressive
doiM .ation of Frederick II of Germany.
At In age of 10, clad In the habit of the
Third Order of St. Francis, she rreached
In the publlo streets against the crtmes of
the monarch.
The emperor banished not only the gtri
but the entire family. Still the work she
had undertaken survived her departure
and the people of Viterbo rose as one man
against her foreign oppressor and drov
him from the town. When the emperor
died aha returned triumphantly to her
nativa city and a few years after her death
(May $, 1261) an, was canonized by the
pop ha had served and invoked by ri
party aha had advocated.
Popa Alexander IV Instructed by a
vision for three nights In succession, went
In procession to Viterbo followed by all
tha cardinals and exhumed tha body of the
aJnt and transferred It to a newly built
church, where It rested for several sen
turlea. One night, a legend says, she arose
from her grave when the chapel waa on
lira, rans; the bell of warning for tha
people and quietly returned to her resting
place,
Tha chapel was burned down and eves,
the clothes and Jewels on the saint, but
her body remained unoonsumed, although
her face and hands were blackened by the
flames. Visitors to tha modern church
built to replace the old one may see tha
body of the saint encased In glass undo
a golden shrine, still uncorrupted excepi
for the marks of the Are.
The people of Viterbo of today show as
much devotion to the town's patron saint
as their forefathers. Tha festivities In her
honor last three days. A huge, heavy
shrine, representing the saint, her miracles
and the Incidents from her life, Is carried
In procession by fifty of the strongest men
of the town.
The "Macchlna of Santa Rosa," as tha
shrine Is called. Is the most wonderful con
trivance of Its kind, and as it winds
through the narrow streets of Vltarbo It
overtops the houses and gives one the Im
pression of a moving tower. Besides tha
procession, the feast of Santa Rosa Is cele
brated for Its races, run through the nar- .
row, winding streets, tha same aa In tha
middle ages.
Viterbo In the thirteenth century waa
How Modern Enterprise is
(Copyright, 1907, by Frank O. Carpenter.)
a,0RT TEWFIK. Oct. 24. (Special
1 Correspondence of The Bee.)
I Modern enterprise Is opening up
ma oacKwoods or Egypt. Syn
dicates with large capital ar
prospecting for coal oil and cop-
per In the Slnat peninsula. The Egyptian
Expiration company Is working gold mine
betrn' Luxor and the Red Sea, and tha
Nile Gold Fields company la operating fur
ther south beyond Assouan. An English
syndicate with a capital of $2,600,000 la
about to build a railroaa across tha Libyan
desert to develop the string of oaaes whloh
lie 100 miles or so west of the Nile valley,
and by the Assouan dam aver 60,000 acre
have been added to that great fertile apot
In the desert known as the Fayoum. All
of these regions may b called the back
woods ot Egypt. Most of them have long
been considered barren and worthless and
about them little Is known.
Gold Fields ofth Desert.
Within the last two or three years a
great Interest has sprung up as to the
gold fields of Egypt. Prospectors have
been going over the desert above Cairo,
between this country and the Red Sea,
and mora than a acore of syndicates have
been formed to prospect the various con
cessions. The whole country has been di
vided among them, and tha Egyptian gov
ernment 'has Instituted a department of
mines to control them. This department Is
under vtha minister of the interior, and it
has a camel police ao that Its soldiers can
so rapidly from place to place and keep
order. Lines of communication from cer
tain porta on tha Nile t the Red Sea are
being opened up In order to enable labor
to be more econemlcally sent to the mines
and to give the companies better means
ot transport for the materials and food
atuffi which they require.
At present the headquarters of the min
ing department Is at Edfou. between As
souan and Luxor. It has supplies and ma
terial stored there, and It has been mak
ing experiments of crossing the eastern
desert on motor cara and motor cycles to
some of the mining centers. Just now the
chief mines are far away from tha Kile,
and It la necessary to have .julck methods
of reaching them, A number are right on
tha shores of the Red Sea, and they run
up and down through the whole of the
eastern desert In the mountainous regions
bordering tha coast. There are other min
ing companlea operating In the Soudan,
some which have concessions on tha vorjf
bordei of Abyssinia.
AaclOMt SI lues tiring Oprsea,
A number of these coii.uies are re
opening tho workings of tha ancient
KgypUans. The Streeler concession, for
Instance, Is looking for emeralds at the foot
ot Jabel Nugrus, m ar wnart gold mint a
once were, its territory Includes some oC
the most mountainous country in Egypt,
with peaks rising from a mile to a mil
and a half above the level of the Medlter
ranean. It lies within thirty miles ot tie
Red sea, and is tilled wilb ancient work-
h'tia of gold, lead, cupper, iron and emer-
..!. Juat west ot this concession the
1-iiypi and Soudan mining ayiiUicatit ha
four prospecting areas ot twenly-nv square
' Ll'" t ach, upon which ancient gold work-
urn shown. . i I evidences of old mutt
'have be n found In u any ot the other al
lotments. It is well known that tha desert east of
the Nile supplied quantities of gold age
ni. It was for several centuries the Cal
ifornia of the civilised world, ai d produoed
onoush to make the Pharaohs rich and
to enable them to send treasure to th
kings of western Asia. Bonis of the let
tori; to Pharaoh, which have been discov
ered, come from his royal correspondent
In Asia, and they are tilled with request
for gold, which is spoken of as being ag
plentiful In his counrty aa duat.
A little later, when Fypt had lost he
empire and hud been overrun by the bar
banana of the north, the amount of gold
VWlded by th mines of th desert waa
lilll great. Old Ramesea, the oppressor
of t 11-fews, fcad a big Income from
them, and under th Ptolemies th rev
ana of th counrty 1 said to hav been
something; Ilk 13000,000 p annum, a
the favorite residence of tha popes, who In
habited tha palace near the cathedral,
where six of them, viz., frban IV (1X1),
Clement 1V,U2M). Gregory X (12711, John
XXI (1276, Nicholas III (1277). and Martin
IV (12S1), were elected. The last con-lava,
lingered on for sis months, as the car
dinals fulled to agree. This angered Charles
of Anjou, who was then at Viterbo, so
much that In his Impatience he ordered tha
removal of the roof of the conclave hall,
which energetic step hastened the election
of the pope.
Adjoining this hall Is a smaller room.
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also roofless, where John XXI was killed,
owing to the falling of the ceiling. This
pope was a man of letters fyid science and
spent his short pontificate of a year In
writing mathematical treatises, which were
looked upon with suspicion by his cardinals
and court.
His great desire seemed to be to abollth
religious communities and naturally he was
disliked by monks and nuns. Soon after
his election he caused to be built a bed
room next to the council chamber, and
while with head upturned he was con
templating with pride the noble chamber
large part of which cam from the mines.
On some of the oldest tombs there are
pictures showing how gold- Jewelry was '
mode over 4,400 years ago, and one of the
officials of that .time states that he had
commanded an escort which brought gold
from th mines of Keneh and Kossler to
Coptos.
Thl same region la now being exploited
by th Egyptian Mines Exploration com
pany, and not far above Kossler on th
Red sea. Is the UmTtua Mining company,
whleh. with a capital of 1900,000, Is work
ing soma of those old mines. It has erected
a large plant, consisting of an electric gen
erating atatlon, air compressors for driving
rock drills and a railway six miles long,
oonneotlng the mine with its ten stamp
mills on the seashore. The main shaft is
now over 600 feet deep, and the output Is
$7,000 or $8,000 per month. In the report, of
last October the Um Rus officials stated
that more tha.i $100,000 worth of gold had
been mined, and that Improvements wer
under way which would materially increlsa
the output. Thl mine was worked as far
back' as 1377 B. C, and vast quantities of
gold wer taken out of It when the Pha
raoh of th Bible was on th throne. At
that Um It Is said that the Egyptian task
masters worked th mines with slaves. They
mad them labor away day and night. Th
children were forced to carry th ore and
.th old people ground it to powder.
Exploltlngth Osiri,
Th opening up of the oases f western
Egypt Is an agricultural proposition rather
than a mining one, although extensive de
posits of alum, phosphates and minerals
ar aald to exist ther. Gold, which runs
as high as $3 per ton, has been found In
ths lower beds of th phosphate rocks, but
It is not known whether It Is merely a local
freak of nature or whether It may expand
Into richer gold-bearing or. v
Th oases of Egypt He 100 miles or so
west ot th Nile, In th heart of the Lib
yan desert. There ar four great centerr
whloh have been known for agea, and aoma
of which were noted for their fertility
when the-Hebrew were still at work un
der their Egyptian taskmasters. . Theje
oases are Kharga, which lies 120 miles
directly west of Esneh, but which Is best
reached from Assiout, Farafra, which Is
almost directly west of Aaslout and may
b reached by camels In th space ef
eight day! Dthla, whloh lis between
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Kharga and Farafra, and also the oasis of
Baharla, which Is about three days' Jour
ney from Girga on the Nile.
,The corporation of western Egypt pro
poses to build railroads to these oases, and
as a consideration therefor it Is to receive
00,000 acres of land and is to have tha
right, for thirty years, to mine the alum,
ochres and phosphates with which tha
oasea abound. A part of Its scheme Is to
Irrigate the lands acquired by the conces
sion. The company estimates that It will
cost them $25 per acre to do, this, and that
the lands will sell for $75 per acre as soon
as the water can be put upon them. Much
of the Irrigation will be done by artesian
wells, some of which have been already
sunk and are producing flowing streams.
The company Is composed of Englishmen
and Egyptians, and it has a capital of
$3,600,000. It has already begun building
Its railway, and has laid ,the route from
the Nile to Kharga with a telephone equip
ment. Its locomotives and other rolling
stock are building In England.
.
Tbroagh Libya by noil,
When the railroads are completed one
will be able to go through some Interesting
parts of the Libyan desert by train, and
It Is probablo that winter resorts, similar'
to that at Biskra In the Sahara, will spring
up In these oases. I first saw the Libyan
desert In Tripoli. It begins there and runs
eastward to the Nile valley. Near Egypt
It Is a monotonous, stony tableland from
600 to 1,000 feet above the level of the Nile.
It is absolutely barren, and Is without
doubt one of the bleakest parts of the
globe. As one goes westward and nears
the oases the land drops. The desert is
cut up by ravines and cliffs. The oases
are In a depression running for several
hundred miles irregularly north and south.
Just west of them the land Is still rocky,
but. after about six days' camel journey
it changes to an ocean of sand which ex
tends on and on for hundreds of miles.
These oases now have over 30,000 people.
They are Mohammedans, and Include both
Arabs and Bedouins. They live In villages
of mud brick houses, each oasis having
ons or mor towns. In Farafra en and In
Dakhla fourteen.
Dakhla Is the most thickly populated of
all of the oases. It has over 17.000 people,
and It Is watered by 4 wells, many of
whloh wr bored by th Roman. AH
EOTPTIAIf DEATRU'
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Opening Up the Oasis and the Desert
of these villages have mosques. In Kharga
there are 4,800 people in one village, ' and
It Is the seat of the Egyptian government.
There Is a government doctor there and
also a telegraph office. Many of the In
habitants have never been outside the
oases, and they are said to be Interesting
to an extreme. They grow fruit and dates,
exporting the latter to Egypt.
The new company expects to raise rice,
wheat and barley, as well as cotton and
alsal hemp. It has ajready planted many
thousand date palms and large orchards
ot oranges, olives and pomegranates.
. - flit Koioom, '
The largest and most fertile of all the
Egyptian oases Is the Fayoum. It Is so
big that It Is a separate province. It con
tains about 850 square miles and has a
population of 370,000. It lies about seventy
miles northeast of Cairo, and there is only
a short strip of desert between it and the
Nile valley. It is an oval basin inclosed
by the stony Libyan hills, and watered
by a great canal which some say was
first built by Joseph and others that' it
was a branch of the Nile and needed only
to be widened and deepened. The canal
which feeds it now ' is called the Bahr
.Yusef, . which means Joseph's canal. It
begin a mile or so north ot Asslout and
flows through upper Egypt, watering the
Nile valley until about seventy miles above
Cairo, when It turns to the left and flows
through a break in the hills Into the
Fayoum depression. The canal is 270 nilles
long. I have' seen it where it begins near
Asslout. and it looks like a wide and deep
river.
In ancient times a great lake formed a
part of the Fayoum. It was 4-V) miles
around and In places was 800 feet deep.
It was used as a reservoir to supply the
Delta with water, In times of low Nile,
and a canal 300 feet wide connected it with
the Nile river. This was the Lake Moerls,
mentioned by Herodotus and also by tho
geographer Strabo. That lake has now
almest disappeared, and Its bed Is oovered
by some of the richest farm In the world.
The only part ef It which remains Is Lake
Karun, thirty-five mile long and six miles
wide, which lies at the northwestern edge
of th depression at th foot of the Libyan
hills. A great psrt of the land about the
lake la desert, tuid its bank ar oovered
Wlta reeds and tamarisk shrub Its wit
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Is slightly brackish, but the people drink
It It contains fish and the right to fish
In It Is let out by the government' to one
man, who allows the men living on the
banks to ply their trade, and In return
receives one-half the catch.
Some of the best fruits and most beau
tiful flowers of Egypt come from the
Fayoum. A railroad has been built Into
It, which connects with the main Egyptian
system, and one can go from Cairo to
Medlnet, Its capital, In four hours. There
are two trains each way every day and
there Is considerable travel from one place
to the other. At Medlnet there are branch
railroads which reach every -part of the
oasis, and there Is a system of tramways
which includes a number of villages.
Th Labyrinth.
The Fayoum Is not often Hslled by tour
ists, although It contains some of the most
wonderful ruins of ancient Eirypt. There
Is a pyramid about five miles from Medlnet,
In whleh a mummy of an ancient king waa
recently found, and fhero are some traces
left of the Labyrinth described by Strabo
and other travelers. The Labyrinth Is said
to havo been quite as wonderful as the
pyramids. It was situated on the banks
of Ikv Moerls and was vast palace
which had 3,0o0 rooms, half of which were
above ground and half below. The hulld.
lngs composing the palace were connected
by long covered passages which intersected
each other and wound about so that a
stranger could not go through them with
out a guide. Strabo says that the ceilings
ot every room consisted of but a single
stone, and that the paasuges were cov
ered with slab of extraordinary size. He
rodotus, who went through the room
above ground, s.iys that the structure was
more wonderful than the pyramids and
that the windings through the courts pre
sented a thousand occasions of wonder aa
he pasued through. Just who built this
structure no one knows,, but It is supposed
to have been made as a temple and a tomb
by one of the Egyptluu kings who lived'
more than a thousand years after Cheops
built the great pyramid.
How Egypt Goveraa Slant.
The Peninsula of Sural, in which tha
children of Isrsel wandered for forty years
after they came out of the Nile valley,
now belongs to the Kgyptlsns and Is gov
erned by them. The country Is visited, by
trvlr by rssan ef camel and Badoula
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.. THTTETfr liBaPIga ClTiX E-V XfT. TTLaROJ. ,
he burst Into laughter, and at that mo
ment the roof fell on him.
A legend says thst on the night of the
scrld nt a friar, who was calmly asleep In
his convent, roused the community, cry
ing: "linn, brothers; I see a man In Mark,
knocking with a hammer on the walls of
the apartment of the pope. Fray, rrny,
that It will not fall." Then h added, with
a shriek: "It Is too late; the wnll hns fal
len!" T''e black man was supposed to be the
devil, but gossips at the time (and this pope
wnr. greatly beloved by the common people)
wh:p.e4 '.ha' the black man was p-.i.b-
ably one of the monks whom the
hated so much.
pope
The work of the devil or monk has been
respected until the present day, and no
human hand has dared to rebuild what was
so mysteriously demolished. Quite recently
the papal palace has been restored to Its
original beauty, but John XXI's room Is
and will probably remain roofless, as modern
Italian workmen are aa superstitious as
those of the thirteenth century.
The cathedral near the papal palace Is
full of historical Interest, as it was here
that the son of Richard, earl of Cornwall,
guides, and it Is possible to go up the
mountains where Moses saw the Lord In
a burning bush, and where he received the
Ten Commandments engraved on blocks
of stone, while tho Israelites were wor
shiping the golden calf In the foothills.
The Peninsula of Slnal is one of the
most mountainous deserts of the - world.
It has no tillable soil, but It Is said to be
well materialized and to have deposits of
copper which were worked as far back as
3700 B. C. These deposits are now being
again prospected. - and a concession for
mining them has been given to one of the
exploration companies. The Cairo syndi
cate Is Investigating In the, northern half
of the peninsula and their engineers have
reported the discovery of coal In small
quantities. Petroleum is believed to exist
there and also turquoises and other val
uable stones.
The government, however, Is finding It
difficult to administer the country and Just
before Lord Cromer left he directed .that
the whole peninsula be put under the War
department. A British oliieer of the Egyp
tian army Is to be the governor and com
mandant. His headquarters will be at
Nekhl. the chief town of the peninsula,
which is about its center, and tliero will
be other Egyptian officers stationed at va
rious points, 'the Intention Is to make the
country safe for tourists and travelers, as
well as for prospectors, and it will soon
be possible to visit all parts of tha penin
sula. dueer Natives of Slnal.
In the paBt it has been difficult to control
the natives ot Sinai. Tiio country is so
large and so rough and the population so
sparse that it is almost Impossible to cap
ture criminals and bring them to justice.
A camel corps has been organized, and a
telegraph line, and possibly a roud for
motor curs will be built to Nekhl, although
this may not be until at some time In ths
future.
At present ther about 80,000 Inhabitants
in the peninsula. They are all of Arab
origin, save one little tribe, who are be
lieved t be the descendants of soma
Roman troops sent to the peninsula in th
lxth century.
. These Sinai people have their own sys
tems of Justice, and they resent the laws
which the Egyptians are trying to enforce
upon them. They believe In the vendetta,
and In blood money as payment for mur
oa It cn&a kills anotnar la Um at
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nephew of Itenry HI of Kngland, waa
murdered at the foot of the high altar
whero he was giving thanks together with
his cousin, Frlnco F.dwnrd, for his safe
return from the rrusado.
Just nt tie altar steps he encountered
Ouy do Mom fort, hereditary enemy of hla
family, who stabbed him.as the priest waa
about to b'Kln mass. The. murderer on
1 nvlng the church bon.sted of his deed!
and when his followers b.-gaed him remem
ber that Binion de Monfort. his father, had
been IgnomlniouKly dmt'd In the dust,
he hastily returned, to the church and tak
ing the body of his dead foe by the hair
dragged It intii tho plusra. his deed la
commemorated in Dante's "Inferno," canto
x!l. 119.
Frescoes of great value Hut mostly In a
Bad Btato of preservation are continually
being discovered In tha cathedral, which
llle all old biilldlngi In Italy has been
w hilewnshed several tln.es over. A fresco
lately discovered behind ono of the slda
altars represents a sweet faced Madonna
holding In her arms the Child. Many sur.
inlses have been made as to the author of
this painting. Borne recognize It as tha
work of Lorenzo di Viterbo, who spent his
life on the frescoes of Santa Maria dell.
Verita; others affirm that none other than
SebuKtlano del Plombo could be capable ot
suoh delicate coloring and simplicity of
conception.
Tho doubt as to the origin of the painting
mars in no way Its beauty. The face of
the Vlrtiln Is young, with a serene, patient
expression, whilo the Christ Child, unllka
many others. Is a natural, pleasant looking
baby.
Ferhaps Viterbo affords the only lnstanc
In Italy In which the monuments of thai
pr.st are, not In ruins and crumbling Into
d'.ist, bi-.t Hre rtlll Bervlng the purpose for
which originally thew were Intended. Thus,
for example, the Fapal palace Is Inhabited
by the bishop and tho conclave hall la never
empty, as here assemble at the noon hour
the recipients of the bishop's charity Just'
as they used to do In the time of Pop
John XXI, who Is accused of lowering tha
dignity of thevpontlficate by conversing In
a familiar way with people of humble or
ll'ln.
The knights and nobles have disappeared
' and only their houses remain, yet these
are Inhabited ns of yore, and one has tha
Illusion that the modern Inhabitants of
Viterbo nre using them only provisionally
until their original owners come back. On .
Imagines that the town' did not look differ
ent when It was emptied on the occasion of
wars or the crusades. It was empty then
as now, Its streets were silent and Its house
dull and dreary. '
The contrast between the modern, people
and the old houses, between the present
and tho past, Is so considerable that on
feels a keen sense of disappointment that
the people, unlike the houses, should have)
changed with the time and not retained any
of the medtaevaliBm of their surrounding.
peace, the relations of the dead have tha
right to revenge or to pardon If th blood
money be paid. The blood money for an
ordinary murder Is fixed at forty-on
camels, and It may be paid on Inst aliments,
the payments running for a month or a
year or more. If a man kills another se
cretly and .denies the crime, but Is found)
guilty, he Is fined four blood moneys, and
the murdered man's relations may take re
venge by killing one of th family of th)
murderer, and still have th right to thr)
blood moneys. '
How the Judges Detect Crlma. '
Shortly before he left Egypt, Lord Crom
mad seme Investigations of Justice In tha
Slnal peninsula, and In one of his report
described how a Justice detected whethe
criminals were guilty or not. He had thr
methods by water, by fire and by dream.
The test by dream was made by hla honot
going to sleep and dreaming whether th
accused waa .guilty or not.- if the dream
showed the man guilty. It was looked upon
as a Judgment of- God and he was pun
ished. The water test was made with a)
copper Jug filled with that fluid. Tha Judge,
the accused and the spectators sat In a
circle, and Jug, In some way or other, waa
made to move around through the groups
and If it stopped opposite the accused ha
was guilty.
The fire test was severe. It was often
used to convict men of stealing. In thl
case the Judge heated an Iron pan over th
coals until It was red hot, and then mad
the accused touch it three times with hla
tongue. If the tongu showed marks oC
burning, he was gnllty; and. If not, he waa
innocent. Two experts always sat with th
Judpe to witness whether the tongue of
the accused were burnt or not.
All such methods are now to b don
away with, and the British and Egyptian
officials are to see thnt justice Is admin
Istered according to the laws of th land.
FRANK G. CARPENTER.
A Joke That Is Not Funny
In the November American Magazlna
Ernest Poole writes an article on "New
Readers of the News." A million new
readers come to this country from for
elgn shores every year. Mr. Poole tell
many Interesting stories. For example:
Over on the Est Side, in two rear
rooms, in a tenement near the river, lived
a Norwegian with his wife and their boy,
Christy.
"My boy," ho said to me; "he Is why
we come to America, to give him good
chances. An' now he grow American ao
fast I can't keep him close." To keep
close, he, too, was trying to "grow Ameri
can fast." And as the subway was no
help, he was working hard every night
learning to read th i.ewspaper.
"I must know' he said anxiously, "I
must know clese t'lngs. My boy he play
games wld some dice. To him I say:
" 'Christy, it is wicked to gamble.' But
he say:
" 'Fodder, It Is not wicked. It is good
business.' An' he talk to ino Wall street.
II talk an' I see he is wrong, but to make
-him see right I must know. So I rcaa."
He assumed a shrewd, knowing expres
sion, ludicrously out of keeping on his big,
serious face. "I begin to know well dia
gamble business, he said.
"An' also I read of graft. My boy h
tslk too much de grafters. He talk to in
big Tammany men an' trust men an' busi
ness men. Soon I get myself angry.
" 'Christy!' I say to my boy, 'liese men
you must not like so much. All dese men
are burglars!' But he laujli.
"'No, not on y.iur life!' he say. 'Burglar
go to JrII. Dese men are only grafters!' "
At this the doctor ami I both laughed.
The big man leaned back and stared at us,
perplexed and Indignant.
"Why, la It a JokeT" ho' arked. "You
American men see so often Jokes." Ha
thought bard for a moment. 'Maybe
you aee too often," he added. We laughed
again.
"You ar right," aald the doctor, "w
Co. And America needs men Just lik
you, men -who won't see th Jokel"