Nebraska Newspapers

    20, 1907. 7
THE OMAHA SUNDAY
OCJTOHEK
SHOEMAKER ALSO AN ARTIST
And Some Day Bandello Will Bl
Something Else.
DKESSES FEET OF FAMOUS ACTORS
"While WaHlnu; for the rnbllc to Make
a nUenvfrr . lie la Shnelna;
the rvonle of the
tag;e.
NE7W TORK, Ot. 19. "I am a shoe
maker, but I am an artist also," bhIJ
Bandello. "I work for the stage. 1 mnke
dainty slippers, ruatlc leggings, slashing,
d:hing, cavalry bo'.s." He Illustrated
wA.'i hla eloquent hands. R,erythlnn for
t)hi feet of people of the iiiikc, from prima
donnas to carriers of spears, from Bern
hardt and Mansfield to the pony ballet.
That la my nrt and my work.
"Sit down and I will tell you. Yes, Ban
dello Is my name and from Milan I come,
from Milan, ;lty of the cardinals, of tl
Ihiomo, the great cathedral; of Tj Pcala,
queen of opera houses.
'Tor six generations the Bandelll have
been artists and bootmakers. You know
the cardinals and what beautiful shoes
they wore In the olden time? I need say
no more. All the cardinals of Venioe and
Lorribardy and Florence were our patrons.
Only the Bandelll, only the Bandelll, I re
peat, were so much as allowed to measure
their feet.
"And when the cardinals, like too many
others, became modern, too, and wore no
more shoes of fine leather and gorgeous
sunset colors, tho Bandelll, pf course.
turned from them. To what,1 you ask?
To what. Indeed, but to the only field where
costume, great costume, remained a thing
of beauty as In the centuries that are gone
--to the theater and the opera. .
"My father made alines for all the great
ones who trod the boards at I. Bcala.
And when my Savoyard mother Bald I was
old enough I learned my art from him and
then came to this country to make boots
for the great ones of the American stage,
"Have I been successful? My Italian
blood beats In my veins with pride. Look
on this wall.'
Testimonials from Stars.
He waved a proud hand. Well he
might. .The great Calve smiled down over
her dedication to "tin artiste veritable.'
Ancona, toreador, bad dashed off "Al
ro'amlco." And Bernhardt and Novelll and
Marlowe and Anna Held gave testimony
In that portrait gallery to the man who
had shod them wtlh comfort, chtc and
beauty In such half Jocular, half affec
tionate phrases aa "lire," "Al mlo caro
amlco," and the like.
"You aee In my own way I am Just as
much of a, success In making these boots
as many actors are In wearing them, much
wore so often I think. William H. Crane
used to tell me that In the daya when he
produced costume plays. You aee that from
Ills picture up there."
Crane's portrait was between' Anna Hold's
and Sir Henry Irving a, and on It was
written: "Your shoes were great. If the
public had only liked my play as I like
the shoe's I wouldn't have been able to
carry the money away."
"It la an odd business,, this making shoe
for tho atage. The orders, either a feast
or a famine. Either they are large or they
come not at all.
"For Instance, I received a while ago a
commission from one' of the Broadway
managers for ahoea for the entire cast of
'As You Like It.' I had to turn out 185
pairs In two weeks and even with six
workmen to help me I had my hands full.
xw work rooms overflowed with Orlandos
and forost maidens and counters under
. studying Jaquea and all the rest.
"The shoes were more expensive than
you think. Very few fell below 10 a pair.
Some ot them Rosalind's leggings, In
brown and green leather, cost I. And
the beautiful high strapped boots in pale
pink leather, trimmed with Imitation pearls
and real opals which the duke wore were
worth Juat JluO.
Character In Boots.
"Mousquetaire boots, such as I made for
Salvlnl and for Sothern In their plays on
'The Three Musketeers' run about 2S a
pair. I charged that price for these white
' ones of Sothern. The pair of brown oose
mouaquetalrea I made for John Drew long
ago fetched that price.
"They are dashing boots, these mous
quetalies. Their folds drop now this way,
now that, and are full of suggestion al
ways. There are no less than seven differ
ent characters hid In the folds of this
mousquetaire. Look "
And seining a great boot Bandello with
a tug here ami a twist there showed forth
the roystering trooper, the spy, the ne-er-do-weel,
the crevch, the laggard, and so
on.
"Ah, there Is many a trick we must turn
In this trade. To mske milord or milady
taller In an everyday Job.
"There was Lewis Morrison. He played
a Shakespearean part opposite Louis James
In which he had to be as tall as James. I
built him up two Inches and no one sus
pected the trick.
"No, It Is not done altogether by extra
heels. We work up the Inside of the shoes.
In that way I built up a romantic actress
three Inches to play Jean d'Arc. Every
one thought her very tall, but she liked
that and she would never forgive me If I
told her name now and gave away the little
deception.
'Speaking of that. It would surprise you.
would It not, should I tell you that there
are very few women on the stage with
small, well shaped feet. Except on the
vaudeville stage and In the pony ballets
there are almost none.
Even there I know a musical comedy
star, advertised as one of the most chlo
women on tho atage. Her foot was atro
cious. High heels and tight shoes hud
thickened the ankles and broadened the
toes so that I actually had to refuse to
make shoes for her until she had consulted
her doctor as to what sort of ahoes ahe
needed to correct what In a few years
would have been a positive malformation.
Bernhardt's Beautiful Foot.
'Bernhardt, though, has a very beautiful
foot and quite a small one. It Is long and
slim and takes about a No. 4 boot. I rave,
yes, I rave over the foot of the divine one
every time I measure it.
Perhaps that Is why she orders so well
from me, for the heart of woman slxty-
alx palra of slippers In her last order think
of such profusion! And that was only for
her private use. Some two dozen othera
she took for the stage.
"Those golden slippers no, they are not
for Cleopatra, though I regret spoiling an
illusion those I made
Frou. Thos vjjthers with the curling
FALL FASHIONS FOR MEN
More Color in Clothei and Their Ac
cessories.
COLOR IN SHIETS AND HECKTIES
Coats Looser Than I'soal and Com
fortable In Fit Skirt Coats for
It outness Fancy Waist
coats Still In Favor.
NEW YORK. Oct. 19 Autumn and winter
ordinarily bring to the fore the more sober
colors In men's dress, but the present sea
son is an exception. Not only In clothing,
but In the accessories, shirts, cravats arid
ltnr.n, the trend la markedly toward mora
color.
Brown predominates for business and
ordinary wear brown In natural autumn
tonrs, rich and mellow, warm and cheer
fut and often In wonderfully rich combina
tions. Greens and olives are also being
worn by men who seek to dress differently
from the general mass.
Blues and grays, too, are worn, but In
combination with stripes and checks of
different colors or tones of the same color.
Thus the brown stripes are overlaid on
blue fabrics and green or brown on gray
and, two tones of gray or two of blue are
used together, one for the body, the other
for the pattern.
Stripes are seen everywhre, varying
from hair lines to the broad and bold, and
a few checks are also seen, but not many.
Soft unfinished worsteds are favorites
for coats and trousers, but cheviots are
undoubtedly coming In rapidly and many
well dressed men are wearing them, prob
ably because they surpass all other ma
terials for wearing qualities, hold their
shape better and crease less.
For fall and winter overcoats brown, of
course, predominates as In suits. Plain
weaves and herringbone patterna are fa
vored and many of the patterna ordinarily
used for suits are being made Into over
coats for fall.
h the curling toe. ' ov"coat,' 18 d ln " "IlL.
MILLER, STEWART t BEATON
413-15 South Sixteenth Street
new furniture: arrivals
Carload after carload of NEW FURN1TUKK lias been placed on our floor the past week and we are now ready for
the business that is gure to come. No one can resist the temptation which this niairnifioent stock offers.
Every manufacturer knows the tremendous outlet which this concern has and our purchasing power is reflected on
every article which we offer to our customers.
"We never buy a little of this or that. "Vc purchase in largo quantities and secure the bottom prices.
No store in OMA1IA can show such complete lines or afford to give such values.
MISSION FURNITURE
We are exclusive OMAHA AND VICINITY ARvnta for the Original
(Jl'STAV STIOKLEY CrnftMiian Furniture. Tbls furniture has no
equal. There are many Imitation", but all lack ln construction of finish
why buy second class furniture, when the best will cost you no more.
This assortment consists of Tables, Settees, Rockers. Chair, Hod Room
and Dining Room Furniture, large assortment of Rockers C fl rt
and Chairs, ranging ln price from .$25.00 to ipUaUU
DON'T MISS TIII9 OITORTCN IT Y.
SPECIALS FOR THIS WEEK
DED ROOIV1 FURNITURE
Our -entire new stock of PRINCESS DRESSERS, CHEVAL
DRESSERS and CHIFFONIERS will be offered for your
inspection and comparison made in all woods and their
various finishes are beautiful pieces prices f Cf
ranrinr from $122.50 to aWev
she .wore as Gismonds,
"Ah, she Is the greatest ot artists and
so gentle and pleasant, too. t could work
for her forever. But the disagreements I
have had with some of them!
"Sothern and the great Mansfield, they
were the difficult ones. With Sothern I
agreed well enough for a time and then
well, one Is an artist and one has dignity
and when they forget this then It Is time
to lose one's temper, too.
"Well, I have shown you most of my
terns and colors than heretofore, especially
In cheviots.
The changes ln men's fashions, moving
forward In this cycle, have brought again
to the fore the moderate garments which
suit the average man. The sack coat, the
almost universal business garment of the
i American man, ran be best described by
the expression common sense.
The sense Is displayed In the lack of
striving for effect and the moderate, lines of
the garment. The coat reaching almost
n th. ifn, ha mn tha wav of all fads:
work. I will tell you It is not easy to do. , th exaKev,ted shoulder, built up out of
iou see. a aesign nas 10 do maue, nirure- , aU proporttonB( na8 disappeared and fashion
dictates moderation In all directions.
The shoulders are of natural width and
ments taken, then paper patterns cut ac
cording to a scale and these laid on the
different colored leathers and each bit cut
out and sewed or pasted Into the boot.
Hindoo Fakir's Boot.
"You see that odd looking boot ln green
and black and silver with raised pictures
of conflicts between animals and men ot
the stone age and the middle ages and the
like? That is a boot symbolical of the
history of the world.' I made It for a
Hindoo fakir and there are no less than
1
fa,- -.
i Cheap Glasses is
False Economy
Sight Is to precious to trl
fie with. When buying (spec
tacles, buy the BEST. You
never know and appreciate
tiie qualities pf perfect see
ing Spectacles or Eye Glas
ses until you have each of
your eyes thoroughly exam
ined and have glasses espe
cially ground to correct their
defects.
For accuracy and comfort
In Eye Glasses or Spectacles,
consult
H. J. Penfold
a Co.
Leading Scientific Opticians
of Omaha.
140S Farnam Street.
OHTiiwiMiWiiifarsiMiHiM1 1 "rrn
HOTELS.
mtm
1 J,A
y a .
aw
by the art of the tailor show a square ef
fect without padding. The length Is Just
right, neither long nor short.
Fashionable Coat L,ooe.
The distinguishing mark of the fashion
able coata for fall and winter Is looseness.
In England, as la well known, the mas
ter'! clothea are loose and baggy, the man'a
tight. In America, while few well dressed
i men would affect the oaggy E.-ngnsn
thirty pieces of leather ln Its composition. ; cloth.. tne looseness has been borrowed
"That other queer looking crimson boot and slI th1 b..t .armel,ts for the season
with golden suns and moons and all the are ro((my and comfortable, such as the
signs of the aodlao Is an astroldger'a boot. ; athletlo American business man demands.
The astrologer, oddly enough, lives In j Th ..., .ra eut from two to four Inches
Hoboken. That, too. Is made of many ; )arger over the chest than the actual breast
pieces of leather. ; meaiiUre, and the rest of the garment ln
But after all I am only a bootmaker m-onortlon. The sack coat Is slightly shaped
for the stage, and an artist, yes; but a
bootmaker still. Tet one day 1 will be
something else, rich: but not through
bootmaklng, no, not through bootmaklng.
Listen," and' Bandello' s expressive face
changed from grave to gay and from gay
to grave agala..
Once I knew a great artist. Tou
smile, but he was nevertheless a great
artist. He was poor and lived on coffee
nd black bread. I gave him money
he came from my province ln beautiful
Italy. One day he died and left m his
pictures. See them."
A button clicked, lights flashed out
around the celling edge and Bandello
etood ln the center of a little art gallery.
Several landscapes and marines, an ori
ental scene or two, aome portraits and
half a doien water colors of western Ufa
covered the walls.
"Tou aee? One day I will aell these.
erect a great monument to him and be
enormously rich and happy for the rest
of my life! That Is aa It should be. Why
else should on come to America?
Soma of Hla Treaanrea.
"Ah I well, I ha e shown you most of
my treaaurea. There are a few more, i
collect brlc-a-brao and antlquea in a
amall way. You see here are aome good
Tanagra pieces. And lastly. I aril aome'
at . the back and aidea and hangs straight
from the shoulders, the surplus material
draped In the proper place by the art of
the taller.
The exaggeration varies from the type
of man, the tall, slender figure suiting the
larger garment, while the short, stocky
Individual roust have more tightly fitting
coata.
With such a , coat aome ornamentation
may be allowed, and fancy sleeve cuffs,
patched pockets, novel pocket flaps and
concave collars and lapels are aildod ac
cording to the taste of the customer.
In the fall coat the long lapels have a
soft roll, so that all the buttons may be
fastened or only the lowest, and the lapels
will adjust themselves to the varying con
ditions. They are never Ironed flat. The
slit in the back seam la added or not, aa
the customer dictates, much being left to
hla discretion.
The three-button single breasted sack
coat meets the requirements of most busi
ness men and Is the preferred model. It
la cut with long peaked lapels and the
opening extends to the lower end of tho
i breast bone.
The waistcoat should have an equal open
ing If of the same material as the coat,
but la worn slightly higher when of fancy
material, to show In the opening above the
v 1
I .
V W ' - ' ?1 If
PARLOR
ROCKER
Lace Curtains
20 Discount
The October sale of LACE CURTAINS at tho price re
ductions we are making is attracting great attention. Thou
sands of customers have visited our DKAPEHY DEPART
MENT since the beginning of this sale. At no time in the
past year have such GREAT VALUES, SUCH COMPLETE
STOCKS, of both FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC Lace Curtans
been offered for sale in OMAHA. Another wek of price
cutting will reduce our stock to normal. Many patterns will
PARLOR . ROCKER-like
cut frame birch ma- 1)e offered at HALF TRICE TO CLOSE,
hoganv, upholstered in
Kilk 11 Cfl THIS IS AN OPPORTUNITY YOU CANNOT AFFORD TO
velour ItWU MISS.
MORRIS CHAIR
Morris Chair, weathered oak, like cut,
upholstered with verona velour or
Imitation leather, rush- rt rf
Ions; price IUU
LINOLEUM LINOLEUM LINOLEUM
Our store has always been a popular place to buy LINOLEUM. It is a well known fact that we handle the best
makes and the choicest designs and quality. Our prices have never been higher than the prices asked for inferior goods,
but this week we are going to give you a chance to save many dollars. We have about forty pieces more than we need
to finish the season, which we will not carry over. "We have divided these into two lots and will place these on sale
at once.
LOT NO. 1 Consisting of about 25 rolls of . LOT NO. 2 Consists of 18 rolls of good style,
choice patterns, extra heavy weight, our regu
lar 75c grade, which we offer while
they lasty at
49c
perfect quality and large quantities, not rem
nants, 65c Krade; sale "T -l-t
price J I 2 C
WHAT A CHANCE TO SAVE A CHANCE YOU WILL
OIL CLOTH STOVK III fiS
Stove Rug, 3-9x3-0, each 75
Stove Rug. 3-6x4-6, each 91.00
.Stove Hug, C.6, each . . .$1.50
SURELY NOT CARE TO MISS. .
- . , , . . ,, v. IH.1.IMI1 IU uu w 111 me uueuiiiK BIWVQ lilt?
what of a connoisseur ln this," and he , ,
. . .,(V. h.,, coat. The front ednts are straight, with
exhibited a neat little den, with hi ill I 4 . " ' ,
ahelf Bet out with plates of the warm
blue ware of Delft and old atone Jugs
In which beer and ale must aeem nectar,
and tall, pale fold glasses, fit goblets
for the sunlit wines of the Po.
"You see? Some day you must come
and have supper with me and X will fclve
you risotto Mllanalse aa they make It
In Its home In my province and spaghetti
piping hot. garnished with garlic, and
for a aweet, golden, creamy cabaleonl.
That will be soon, I hope.
"And aome day after that perhapa you
will come back again and I will not be
here. My poor, dead friend will have been
discovered and I will be rich, enormously
rich. But wherever I go these," and he
button and slightly rounded corners.
The four-button sack coat la entirely a
matter of personal taste. If It Is worn the
buttons are nearer together than In the
three-button coat.
The double breasted sack coat will be
worn by the athletlo individuals who forego
a top coat. It la not a coat which alta
well under an overcoat, Is clumsy and
cumbersome, and la surely losing Us vogue
for city wear.
The double-breasted coats follow In loose
ness the single-breasted models, but are an
Inch longer. The lapnls are wide, peaked
and aoft rollod, not Ironed down. The from
la straight, with no cutaway, and elopes
av'ed lovingly toward the host of many with three buttons, the top pair of buttons
J
LEXINGTON HOTEL
a,balutly fire-proof. MUhimi BIts an trtk
St., Cfcucgo. t urpen fUn. hMOin. $ W r tr
a ttpwtrd. 1b LfclnglMi appeal T.UUr U
ibI Camlltea. aae tfaM a.ktii a aulat. --
1 1, kix.i Hiiir aeoaaiti u ib 1 ti.i. r and tu- ! brellas, some old brooms,
Siaa aiLTlrt rOB.-all with hot ana rol ar.wr I . .,. M .,,
aua lai olae cioaeta Hie ru.a?a wlta pmata bath
UfmcUva calca at lbiJ'il prtc. iuUol arv
tea aaa autaiaa. Far (unto parikulara ana tnforna
Ih a wrtla iuanlT Ownca and oprr.iad by IN 1 h K
BTATB UUUL COMPANY. K K ru.J. Frae. ; T.
U. Ja, V. P. ; U U. rir. Sac.
aiao BraertMars Te Caaua Hiu, Kansas Clt,
si.
colored boots and aandals ana loggings
and slippers ln the window. "These I
will always keep with me."
OLD JUNK FOR TrlF NEEDY
RmbVlah Wcsmb 'WaBiteel Dostare
Bad rolled Refeise to
Take It.
AU was peace anj quiet around the police
station. ' Only four arrests were recorded
by the desk sergeant all day and the know
ing onea said it was the most quiet flay
recorded Since Boston Oreen went on the
water wagon. The telephone Jingled the
desk sergeant out of his reverie and the
owner of a shrill feminine voice at the
other end of the Una said she had some
things out at her house she had been ac
cumulating for the needy, and as winter
was coming on arace she allowed that they
would soon be needed and requested that
the wagon be sent out for them. It was a
long drive out to her house, but Captain
Dunn agreed that tha needy must be
clothed and the clothes would go a long
way toward doing It. and besides the
horses needed the exercise. Bo the emer
gency rig was hitched up and started on
Its mission of mercy, with Sergeant Cook
ln command.
In about an hour the sergeant returned
empty handed and with a look of supreme
disgust en bis face.
"Things for the needy. Indeed." he said.
Why. that woman Is certainly the limit
Fhe took me out to the coal shed and
steered ine against a big pile of worthless
junk. Owl worn out bonnets, broken urn-
a mouse trap.
i dog inusiles, mope, worn out corsets, and
the Lord knows what all. There wasn't a
thing In tha pile that anyone could possi
bly use, no matter how needy he might
be. I think the woman was simply trying
te got the Junk hauled away free of eoet,"
one . Inch further apart than the bottom
pair.
Skirt Coata far Professional Meat.
Professional men, such as doctois and
lawyers and the hlghVr office men. are
turning more and more to the skirt coat for
business. This preference is due to the
desire to wear something out of the ordl
nsry, ln cut as well as In color.
Two designs of skirt coats are worn this
fall, the so-called English walking coat,
slightly longer than a sack coat, but fitting
In the back with a skirt, and the morning
coat, built on the same general lines as a
single-breasted frock coat, but cut away In
the front.
The morning frock reaches nearly to the
bend of the knee. Both of these coats,
while fitted ln the back, have the loose,
comfortable look that marks the season's
styles. They are made from the prevailing
colors, or black. The black coat, if It
follows the morning coat motlel, is flat
braided on the front edges, collar and
lapels.
Veaae f the Vmmer Waistcoat.
The vogue of the fancy waistcoat still
continues unabated. Ita use gives that note
of color for which men seem to be striving,
and for business makes attractive a costume
which otherwise might be neutral.
In colors and patterns there Is difficulty
In choosing, the variety for choice being
practically unlimited. Flannel Is the favor
ite material, stripes or small figures the
preferred patterns. As In skirts and
cravats a man's taste must govern; thert
la no hard and fast rule to follow.
Taney waistcoats are either single or
double breasted, opened Just high enough
to show when the coat is buttoned. The
single-breasted have a notched collar, olose
with five buttons and the points below the
bottom button are three and one-half Inches
Ion.
Tha double-breasted are out to. show
points in front, aa do the single-breasted,
close with three buttons, the top pair one
Inch further apart than the lowest.
If a waistcoat of the same material as
the coat la worn It haa a collar and lapels
to match those of the coat and closes with
five buttons.
Notwithstanding efforts to bring back Into
favor trousers of different material from
the coat, men who follow the fashion con
tinue to wear coat and trousers of the
same cloth and pattern. The greater wear
of the trgusers is provided for by buying
two pairs of trousers with each suit.
Trousers for fall and winter are cut closer
ln the leg than has been tho. custom, but
are easy over the scat. They are short
enough to hang straight and avoid the
break over the ankle, but are finished at
the bottom without a cuff.
Overcoats.
The business overcoat for autumn and
winter Is the single-breasted fly-front
Chesterfield, popular for so many years aa
a general utility coat, or the paletot, a
skirt coat cut on frock lines. While it la
true that the short covert coat, tha paletot
and the Chesterfield will all be worn, each
of them has its definite place, as sharply
defined as the custom for the dress cout or
the double-breasted frock.
The covert coat Is used by well dressed
men solely aa a coat for riding or driving.
Ita shortness and lack of tails tit It ad
mirably for its place on the back of a
horse or getting Into or out of a dog cart.
The paletot Is being worn for autumn
by well dressed men. Its use requires all
the other parts of the costume to be In
i harmony with It. It makes up well In tha
, lighter or medium weights of woolens, but
I Is difficult to tailor In the heavier weights.
It is long, fullliiK to the middle of tho
calf, and Is close lilting in the back In the
; usual frock elyle. The -breast is cxagae--,
ated, while the waist is trim, and the sKlrts
have a decided Hire from the waist over
the hips. It may be single or double
breasted as preferred and is finished with
buttons made from the same material as
the coat or, If single-breasted, with a fly
front.
There are many men who from their
physical conformation cannot wear a New
market with distinction and for thesa tho
Chesterfield is produced. The orrect Fack
or Chesterfield top coat is exceedingly
roomy and loose. It is not at all body
fltttng and falls straight from the shoul
ders both front and back ln what la known
as the box back style.
It reaches to about two Inches below
the knee, and has a long slit ln the center
sosm of the back. The coat closes with
a fly covering three buttons. The autumn
Chesterfield has a collar of the name ma
terial as the body of the coat, while the
wlntci wights, darker In color and more
conservative as to pattern, are finished
with a velvet collar.
Following closely the colors in garments
the aoceasorles ihlrts, ties, linen illNplay
mere color, not the lighter shades hut the
brighter and wartiier shades of the darker
colors.
Plaited Vrallaer hhlrta.
There can be llttlo change in the cut of
the shirt, yet for business wear the soft
front negligee shirt retains its vogue. The
stiff, heavily starched bosom shirts have
apparently been ousted from populur favor
TO CI RK A rot G II OR COLD.
The following formula Is a never failing
remedy for coughs or colds:
Vo ounces of glycerine, one-half ounce
jf Concentrated oil of pine. one half plat
good whiskey, mix and thake thoroughly
' ach time and use In doses of a teaspoju
ful to a tablt,poonful every four hours.
This, If followed up. will cure any cough
that is curable or break up an acute coll
in twenty-four hours. The ingredients all
can be gotten at any. drug store.
Concentrated oil of pine comes put up
for mediciual uses only In half oun"e vials
Sealed ln wood cases designed to protect it
from heat and light. Other oils of pine
are Inaolaable and are likely to produce
nausea and cannot five the desired result.
by the softer bosoms. The plaits which
cover the front of the correct negligee
shirts provide the requisite stiffening to
make the shirt set well under the waist
coat. ,
The man's taste la considered in the ar
rangement of the plaits. There may be a
broad plait on each sido with a norrow
one between, each plait with a strip of
embroidery in the center, or two moder
ately wide plaits on each side and another
in the center, with a cluster of hulr
stripes in the middle of each plait and
small figures on the body between. Ptill
another design has broad box plaits and
small tucks alternating.
Cream and champagne grounds combined
with blue or green designs are somewhat
out of the ordinary. Tans with hair
stripes or self figures find favor, while
purples and greens with corded stripes of
brighter shade of tho same color are ex
clusive. The patterns lean decidedly toward em
broidered or acoll effects. With figured de
signs the pattern appears in the center of
each plait, but the scroll treatment Is so
arranged as to show the pattern between
the plaits and on the edges or center of
the cuffs.
Collars and (alti,
The single cuff with a link button is
popularly worn, yet the double fold, with
the outside fold sometimes square, perhaps
with rounded cornirs or more often cut
away from the opening to show the cuff
button beneath, is worn by carefully
dressed men. r
With the advent of autumn the wing col
lar has a revival in popular favor. By
men who dress well It is worn for busi
ness. The most desirable shapes huve a
rather dote opening and rounded tabs, but
to be strictly in fashion requires a collar
with smtill rounded tabs and the front
edges of the opening aimoFt meeting.
By men who prefer the high turnover
collar those with the outer band meeting
In front and only slightly cut away to
allow of the tie knot will be worn ex
clusively. The poke and lap front collars
are reserved for diets occasions.
Four-ln-llaud ShrluklusY.
ConlormliiK to the collar sluine. tho
younger men i-ic wearing tics which are
perceptibly narrower than those of the.
spring. Tho old four-ln-hand has shrunk
to a width of one and three-quarter Inches,
and thosp who delight In extremes are
wearing ties nearly us nuirow us the old
btrlng ties of our boyhood.
The fashionable four-ln-hand is fashioned
from a bromi piece of silk folded in to
make tho band, and having wide, flowing
I ends. It is tied In a small linn kuot. With
the wing collar a slightly larger Knot Is
tied nr the cravat Is wound twice at the
h.irrel to make a longer knot.
Tho fall cravat shows more color.
Browns, ranging from the deepest wool
shades to the brighter tans, and varying
shades of giee.ia are favorites. Purple and
the bluish si ides of red are also to the
fore.
Of patttrrts there la a bewildering variety,
but stripes will be preferred. Broad cioss
stripes In two tones of the same color,
the so-called college stripes diagonally
across the cravat and the lengthwise stripe
of a matching or contrasting color' to the
ground shade of the silk will all be worn.
Tiie present tendency is to more display
of the cravat, and while the knot must
be small the ends may flare to any desir
able extent In the fashion of several years
ago.
Hats, Gloves, Shoes.
The smart hats for fall are the stiff hatt
or derbies. The soft hat suffered from too
many variations and fads and was killed
for exclusive wear.
The premier fall hat has a full crown with
a generous curl to the biim. Most men
will wear black, but the brown derbies, in
all shades from tan to chocolate, will be
much in favor. An especially desirable
combination is a light tan with a chocolate
or dark brown ribbon and binding.
Cloves for business wear are confined to
cape of glace kid. Tha fad for suede,
which bad a vogue when gray suits wrs
worn, has died out. The proper glove Is
hand sewed, with half stitching on tho
back, Is fastened with a button, never with
a clasp and Is in color one of tho shades
of tan.
The chief characteristic of the smart
boot is the shorter forepart and a return to
tho military heel. Luced boots are correct
for business, the buttoned being conllnyl
to dress purposes. The vogue of the tan
shoo bids fair to continue until cold
weather.
new lot who will not want to be publU,
functionaries, and who will be too busf
looking after their Jobs to think abou(
forming a union. This will probably be th
outcome.
WEDDED FOR HUNDRED YEARS
Hiinsrarlnn Couple llolcla It r cord for
I.onac unci Happy Married
Life.
VIENNA, Oct. 1!). (Special.) Diamond
weddings are rare indeed, yet there has
Just been celebrated in the little village
of Isonbolgl the anniversary of a wedding
which It is declared occurred Just W0 yeurs
ago. All Hungary Is Intensely Interested,
and the emperor asked the authorities to
forward to him oflhial particulars, so that
he can personally congratulate the couple.
The extraordinary couple are named
Rzathniaii. The luisband Is 120 yenrs old
and the wife 116. He was a farmer and
was married at the age of W. They have
hundreds of descendants In and around the
village. A score of ypars ago there was a
celebration In honor of the man's hun
dredth birthday and application was raailo
to the Hungarian government for a pen
sion. It was granted after th records of
the village had been examined and the
man'a age verified. Four yeara later the
woman was also granted a pension.
The old couple live In a modest cottage
and arc wcil-lookcd after by relatives. Thev
are nearly blind and very deaf, and sleep
nearly all the time. The man, however,
still enjojs lis pipe and glass of wine, and
neither Is forbidden.
It is a strange fact that In all their years
they have never left the village and know
nothing of the great world outside of Ison
bolgl. They were both born there Hnd
have live, I continuously in wedlock a quiet
and peaceful life.
The recent celebration of their hundredth
wedding day was participated In by the
entire village, which is very proud of hav
f ,g rstahllshed, without any doubt, a world's
record.
PECULIAR IMMUNITY OF GOATS
Milk of the Auimnl Superior to Ami
Other for Victims of
Tuberculosis.
Nothing In the history of science Is mora
instructive, according to the experts who
prepared the recent report of the British
Commission on Tuberculosis, than the vast
dltllcultlcs experienced in propagating th
use of the milk of tho goat, l'hysielans ot
the highest eminence, have affirmed tha
in the milk of the gout nature provides
the best possible solution of the problem
i t tuberculosis. In saying that the goat la
not subject to tuberculosis. Dr. Flnloy Bell
of the New York Academy of Medicine. IS
In agreement with Sir Willlum Broadbent.
He is ulao supported by the evidenco ol
leading English goat keepers, of every pub
lieatlon concerning goats and of the dis
tinguished Prof. Nocard. who stated re.
cently that of the 13u,KJrt gouts and kids
brought to Turis for slaughter every spring
the meat inspectors had failed to find a
single case of tuberculosis. Nevertheless,
with the exception of the members of the
British aristocracy, very few Anglo-Saxons
have profited by the lesson of these truths.
Those scientists who go so far as to defy
any authority to produce a single case of
tuberculosis among a population . using;
gout's milk to the exclusion of cow's milk,
receive very little attention. The circum
stance seems all the more surprising ln
view of what the Investigators on ths
l.ritlsh commission call the superior rich
nt ss and flavor of the milk of the goat td
that tif tlie cow. Current Literature.
SCAVENGERS ARE OFFICIALS
All Paris la Amused at Latest Turn
Given to Illtrulty of
Labor.
L'ilKriua of the Army Huge, 1
Colonel l'hilip Keaile of the Twenty-thircf
t'nitetl Ktates Infantry Is the author o
tile follouillir "eoturama rif I 1m rantr..'
i "Tile ultimate of the soldier's profession
Is to know when and where ami how to
, pull tho trigger;" "oiher things being
i equal, that siiKHcr who can hit with
I measurable accuracy what ho alms at if
the best soldier:'' "th way to learn how
to-hit is to lind out why you miss;"
"brains must Im mixed with gunpowder;"
. "soldiers who aro not good shooters are
1 apt to bo turned Into good scooters;"
i "'tiost good sliol are mailt! good shots by
I systematic Instruction and practice; there
Im no royal roud to success."
PA HIS, Oct. 1'.).-tpei (al ) Newspapers
are Just now Indulging ln an ebullition of
ridicule of officialdom. By a recent de
cision of the Prefect of tho Seine depart
ment, in which Paris Is situated, the lty
scavengers have been raised from the
lowest possible position ff laborers to the
dignified position of public functionaries
of the city.
It appears that the scavengers, Including
the men who look after and clean the sew
ers, wanted to form a labor union and be
come affiliated with the tieneral I-abnr
Federation. But the Heine Prefect heard
of the movement and stopped It.
He lasued a proclamation that the scav
engers were nominated by an official at
the city hall, tiiat their pay came from the
city treasury, and that, therefore, they
were city officials. And under the hiws
of France neither city officials nor statu
officials can form themselves into a labor
union or Indulge In strikes.
The situation created by this decision is
peculiar. City officials in general object
to having the scavengers classed with
them. They tieoaie tlie.t a mc avenger is
a mere dally, haphazard sort of common
laborer. They can bo hired or discharged
on the spot, and are not even named on the
city payrolls, but have each man a number.
The prefect, M. de Selves, Is being as
sailed on all sides and the newspapers ad
vise him to reconsider tils decision, dis
charge ths aoaveugeit a bloc ani hire a
Famous Expert Tells
How Kat May Jk lU'iuovcd Rapidly By
u Simple Homei Itemed)- Without
t nuhiiiK Wrinkles, Disturbing
the J)i-t or .'ci?ltjr for
Kxeitlse.
"Kat Im nothing but unused energy,
says a prominent physician, and the man
or woman who is burdened with It can
easily get rid of it If they wish. All they
need Is a '4 ounce of Mirmula, M ounca.
of Fluid Kxtraet Caseara Aromatic hint
SH ounces of Krup Simplex; all of whloti
they can get at any good drug store tot
a few cents. Then let them take one
traspoonful after meals and at bedtime
until they are down to the Weight they
want to be.
This siinnln homo receipt Is far and
away better than any or all the putent or
stent medicines, for It reduces the fat
fafely and harmlessly. The Ingredient
are In fact beiieflclal to the system, ha v.
lug both tonic and purifying qualities,
and so help rather than distress the stom
a li. The remedy dots not cause wrinkles,
for It reduces one gradually and naluially,
preserving good outline, and, beat of all,
needs neither physical exert Ise lo help it
do the work, nor does It require any
change of diet one can get results and
still take things eaay eating meanwhile
Just what, when and bow he or alia
pleases. Be sure and get tlie Manuola in
a sealed package, so that bU get liiriuola,
and not s substitute.