E
(
I a
I
Short Sleeves Still Here
i Signs of Coming Change
I " I drooping nhmiMcr, which In In
modification of the kimono sleeve,
ri an been the sleeve novelty par
excellence during the spring and mill re
tain Its preatlg. though the exaggera
tions of this mode hsve been somewhat
toned down and the later developments of
tha Idea are mora generally becoming than
tha mora radical model nrr.
Tha eatrema type la ntlll retained In many
roata and wraps, but bodices, while retaln
"ThMB tba long shoulder lino, achieved by
shoulder drapery or trimming or by an
oversleeve rut In one with tho shoulder,
avoid tha bunchlnsss which characterised
many of tha early models.
In many Instances it la Impossible to thow
tha construction of tha sleeve without giv
ing a sketch of tha
entire bodice, but we
have selected from
aucceaaful modal
I frock a group of
' attractive 1 a a r a a
which may offer wel-
, coma suggestions.
In a vast majority
of caaes tha modish
sleeve a u m e a
tha form of over-
I aleeve ami under-
t1 zr wy M
SOME OF TH"E NHWB8T DESIGNS FOR
SLEEVES.
sleeve and one of the latest rumors
from Paris tells of several great dress
maker, who are vouching for close fitting,
wrinkled, transparent undersleeves reach
ing well down over the hand. Doubtless
the things will come.
Already tha ehort sleeve has had a longer
lease of favor than Is usually accorded to a
mode and It Is time to expect a change;
so this tentative lone undersleeve may be
an opening- wedge which will have aertoua
consequences In tha coining- winter. How
ever, that remains to be aeen, and for tha
present women are loyal to the short sleeve,
either In elbow or three-quarter length.
Save In evening bodices and other frocks
of very dressy character tha extremely
ahort sleeve has very generally given place
to a eleeve which at leaat corera tha point
cf tha elbow and very often comes well
below It. In coats and street frocks the
three-quarter length la almost universal
when a full length sleeve Is not used, aa It
Is, In the severely tailored coat. ,
If a coat aleeve enda at tha elbow, as it
does In certain dreasy coats of Louis XV.
suggestion, It is supplemented by an under
sleeve of lace or net, as In the sleeve
sketched here. With a flaring cuff suoh as
Is Indicated In this sleeve ths elbow length
Is correct and tha sleeve should be wide
enough to admit of a full undersleeve.
The fulness of tha fashionable sleeve
has gradually crept down the arm from
shoulder to elbow and new one sees many
. a aleeve drooping to Ita widest point Just
above the elbow. Instead of assuming the
f Igot lines so long In vogue, but this la not
altogether the case. A charming sleeve
model which la used with various madlfica
tlona droops slightly at the shoulder, with a
cap of material like that of the bodloa, but
thla cap la wide and ahort and below It
tha sheer mousseline sleeve narrowa gradu
ally to a point well below the elbow.
In tha frock from which has been
sketched sleeve of this class the sleeve
was almost of three-quarter length. All
down the Inside seam the sheer sleeve Is
laid In little horizontal plaits and the full
ness at the outer edge Is gathered softly,
falling In little Jabot-Uk frills down tha
outatde of tha arm.
A draped puff of frock material sur
mounts a close, wrinkled, transparent un-
Scenes From
Si4
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am . - - - -fc e i
AfDRET AND TOrCHrTONB.
derslceve In certain French models, the
undersleeve extending for several Inches
below tho elbow, but quite In contrast to
the lines of this eleeve is another popular
French undersleeve model made of soft
chiffon or silk moussellne and falling
straight and full. Naturally, ita folds fol
low the Una of the arm rather cloaely, but
It la held In tightly to tha arm Just below
tha elbow, tha fullness falling low over tha
band, which la often of fine elastic run
through a narrow hem, bo that the full, yet
clinging, sleeve Is quite untrlmmed.
Oversleeves slashed up the outsido to
show a full transparent undersleeve are
plentiful to the point of monotony, but
allow for considerable variety of detail.
Such a slashed oversleeve often has Its
corners turned back In reverse fashion and
caught with ornamental buttons. Often,
"75TTWr-"""ssssi
too, these turned
back sleeve corners
are embroidered or
faced with contrast
ing color.
The average under-
sleeve is a puff of
soft transparent
stun held in by a
band st the elbow,
and thin puff la
trimmed, If at all,
by many fine horl
sontal tucks, by tucks and inset lace inser
tion or by lace frills.
So ubiquitous Is the undersleeve trimmed
In lace frills or composed wholly of deeper
lace frills that It la said to be largely re
sponsible for the scarcity of good Valen
ciennes edging, and the vogua of the laca
frill undersleeve has helped to bring the
net top laces onue more Into prominence.
Plaited frills may be used In place of
shirred frills, and these are particularly
pretty In a very sheer material such as silk
muslin or finest lingerie stuff with hem
stitched edges, which may or may not be
finished by narrow edging of real Valen
ciennes. Undersleeves made with several rather
deep frills of fine embroidery edging and
with Valenciennes two or three Inches wide
frilled under tha deep scalloped edge of
each embroidery frill are attractive for
frocks of Unen, and undersleeves of very
fine allover English embroidery, held In by
a broad band of beading through which
ribbon la run to tied In fluttering knots
at the elbow, are also attractive and prao-
tlcal for the linen frock
French makers use auch undersleeves as
this, but hand embroidered in openwork
design upon the sheerest batiste or llnon.
In. connection with dressy frocks of silk or
voile and lingerie materials, embroidered
and lace trimmed, figure prominently among
the gulmpe and undersleeve models even of
elaborate afternoon gowns.
Soft puffs of chiffon or other sheer ma
terial, finished with double laoe frills run-
rdog around tha bottom and all tha way up
the outatde of the sleeve, are always pretty,
and dainty effects are obtained by running
narrow frills of lace vertically at frequent
Intervals from top to bottom on a puff of
chiffon or other thin, soft material.
Folds of soft silk or satin stitched only
on tha upper edge encircled full puffs of
chiffon or meussellne In tha same shade as
the folds, and little, cords and minute bows
of allk or satin are Introduced among the
puffs and frills which finish the bottom of
many of the sleeves. Two or three puffs of
the sleeve material headed by an unstand
Ing frill of narrow lace and finished at the
bottom by a downfalllng frill of narrow
lace make a food finish for a sheer under
sleeve. Afprtrea' Father's Choice,
Of the sisters of a well known family one
Is married. She baa one little girl greatly
petted by all the aunta and subject to
much advice from , all of them. Of thla
last the' little lady aometlmea wearlea,
which weariness on a certain occasion
made Itself shown in the following reply
from her small ladyship:
Said one aunt: "If you were my child
I ahould have you do thus and thus." Said
another aunt: "Were you my child I would
do ao and so." The remaining aunt made
a almllar remark.
The little lady thought It high time to
express her own feelings. "But I have,"
she said, "always been so thankful that
papa married the sister he did."
"As You Like
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Salc Porch and Lawn Furniture
This week particular attention will be given to POUCH AND LAAVX FUKMTUKK. In a groat stock like ours your field for choosing is almost with
out limit. We have marked prices on these poods that will sweep them out in a jiffy and everyone in reach of this store would take advantage of the oppor
tunity offered. A few of the prices we herewith quote.
VUDOR PORCH BLINDS
We carry a complete stock of the best make of Porch
Blinds, which come in Malachite green, and in two-tones of
olive and ecru, made in the various sizes.
4-7x6 $3.50 6x7-6 $5.00
8x7-6 $6.00 10x7-6 $8.50
PORCH RUGS
Our showing of Torch Rugs is a noteworthy exhibit in
itself, consisting of the Belgian Porch Rug and the Moodji
Rug direct from India, made in colors of the Orient, and
will withstand rain and sunshine, almost indestructible and
quite the thing for summer use, dens and dining rooms.
3x6 Porch Rug $3,756x9 Porch Rug . . . .$10.00
4x7 Porch Rug $5,507-6x10-6 Porch Rug ..$15
MILLER. STEWART
Timely Gossip for
When Is a Mas aa Old Maldf
ALLIR ERMINE RIVES Is one of
H
m
many famous women who discuss
the question. "When is a maid
an old maid?" In tha July House
keeper. She says:
"The
certain
phrase 'old maid' atands for a
prlmnesa and severity which are
the badges of loneliness, aloofness, lack
of the close sympathy which married life
should bring, and the repression of In
stinct and the sensitiveness and pride which
battle with the consciousness of these de
ficiencies. Many married women are never
thought of as old maids, and plenty of old
maids are married.
"The women who have not the slightest
Inclination to become wives, who, without
being masculine In their predilections,
merely prefer their freedom, are not the
sort who most often acquire the term "old
maid.' Such a one may be the bachelor
maid, tha devotee of Isms, the cool-headed
business woman, but she lacks In the
broader sense the womanliness ever to de
Serve the term 'old maid.' The bachelor
maid doea not understand her limitations,
as doos the real old maid. The bachelor
maid la blind to her own insufficiency In
the sex scheme of nature.
"The real old maid, on the other hand,
Is more essentially womanly. She ,knowt
her lack: she belongs in the side street,
not In the business block. Her's is the
atmosphere of white linen, of lavender, of
yellow letters and of dusty memories.
Your real old maid Is set far above the
other classes of unmarried women, the
'bachelors.' For the real old maid has
hungered all her life for marriage, and
the deepest thing In her heart Is the
ache for the little child.
"Bvery true woman hungers for marriage.
If she does not to that extent she has
missed the meaning of life. The more
fiercely a woman deniea thla truth, tha
more certain Is she of it In her own soul.
No woman or education is better off single
than as the wife of a poor struggler."
One Woman's Rare Gowns.
Miss Glulia Moroslnl of New York, noted
for her riding and driving and her magnifi
cent growns, and who Is said to spend more
on dress than any other woman In New
York, haa completed the purchase of cos
tumes for the summer. Her gowns are the
acme of the dressmaker's art. One dress
cost more than 12,000. This outlay Is ex
clusive of the famous peacock dress, and
many others In which she has been seen
since the spring set In. The peacock prin
cess gown is generally conceded to be the
most novel aa well as the most striking of
It" to Be Presented in Open Air Monday
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V",
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REUNION Or TUX LOVERS.
r, -Mi
f t ... '
Porch Furniture
Arm Chair, with reed seat and back, to match
rocker in cut, light finish $280
Peed Settee, to match rocker in cut, light finish,
at $5.G0
Double reed seat, slat back rocker, light finish,
for v $2.10
Double reed seat, slat back arm chair, light fin
ish, for $1.90
Double reed seat and slat back rocker, $2.50
Double reed seat and slat back arm chair $2.50
Double reed seat and slat back arm chair $2.25
Porch rocker, reed seat and back (like cut),
light finish, for..., $2.60
her costumes. This frock was made for the
horse show.
It is of gray crepe chiffon cloth, with
a huge peacock embroidered in silver beads
on Italian lace. The body of the bird, with
spread wings, is embroidered on the waist.
Its head resting with the profile In the
center of the yoke, with a large diamond
blazing from the eye of the bird. The tail
of the peacock Is In the form of an artistic,
panel, beginning from the waist line and
extending to the hem of the skirt, where It
widens In a cascsde of Jeweled embroidery
intended to represent feathers. This frock
is estimated at J'.'.UOO.
Her evening gown is embroidered with
gold sequins In the design of a fleur-de-lis
on ecru net. With this Miss Moroslnl
wore her Indian Jeweled collar of precious
stones. A pale blue panne velvet is the
most simple of all her gowns, being one of
the first dresses made with Masonic cross
yoke, which has become very popular. Miss
Moroslnl has always avoided extremes, and
her only costume of striking color Is a wa
termelon pink.
Karnlnir a Dollar.
The Idea of women members of church
congregations forming a sacred compact to
earn money by Individual and personal ef
fort for a stated purpose Is not new, but
It proved at least novel among the mem
bers of the Howard Congregational church
of Chicago. The enthusiastic feminine
nflrliihlnn.n rsuislvajt tn fnnt rltauta fl .urh
for a benefit fund, and It was stipulated
that only honestly earned dollars wero
eligible. No "tainted" money otherwise'
money that had been secured In the cus
tomary domestic waya from tha bread
winning member of the family was to be
accepted.
The proposition looked easy to the
women, reports the Kansas t'tty Journal,
and they entered into the arrangement
with an enthusiasm that waned desper
ately as the difficulties of the task waxed,
These women, for the most part, had never
earned a penny In their lives, except as
the work of coaxing the reluctant coin
from padlocked hubby might be ao con-
st rued. But this time they were to be
financially Independent of the nominal head
of the house. They were actually to de-
pend upon their own resources and "hustle"
the money after the approved modern
fashion.
It took a long time for some of the
women to gather together a whole dollar
which represented the reward of honest
toll, and in characteristic feminine fashion
some of the Ideas of "earning" money
wera unique. Each worker waa required
to make a detailed report of the method
TV
J4
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VA5
A'
and About the Women Folks
or methods emdoved In amaaslng the
dollar. And it was noticed that when the the other pressing the diamond tlrped tool
returns were all in nearly every one ex- on the weak spot where the flaw Is In the
pressed thankfulness that she didn't have stone. '
to earn a dollar every day. Bo the ex- Then the women take the divided scc
periment had Its useful side as well as Its tions and prrfc.it thnm. It ia a ticklish
amusing features. One woman's schedule task, this diamond culling, and trying to
read as follows: the eyes. Borne of tha diamonds are so
Cut husband s hair 6 to 7 a. m $.38 minute that 4K of them will weigh less
Painted the fence (and spent half a day
washing the paint off her hands)
Street car conductor neglected fare....
Bold some home made catsup to a
neighbor (net)
Found a nickel In the street
Dropped a dish and it didn't break
.25
.11
Total COO
Another sealous money maker returned
this schedule:
I painted the kitchen.
I shined my husband's shoes ten times.
I made some catsup.
I patched my husband's trousers.
I took care of the chickena for a week.
I mowed the lawn.
I trimmed my summer hat.
I planted the garden (but it didn't grow).
That these women were badly handi
capped for opportunities must be acknowl
edged, and they did exceedingly well under
the circumstances. And this fact was no
doubt taken Into consideration by their
smiling, cynical and self-satisfied hus
bands. Womea Cat Diamonds.
Women have alwaya excelled In the art
of wrlng diamonds but how many people
know that they excel In the art of cutting
them, too? Yet they do. Word comes from
Amsterdam, In the annual report of Frank
D. Hill, consul at that Dutch port, that
In a great diamond cutting factory thera
women are entrusted with the most delicate
and difficult part of the processes.
It is an Important industry In Amster
dam, Is diamond catting. Thousands of
the gems that come from the mines In
Bnuth Africa are taken to that city to be
"P111 and cut antl polished, made over
'rorn rough stones Into the sparkling wells
of M"1 thl "hlne on women's necks. In
thla factory where women are employed
ver 4W.O00 diamonds were cut and polished
ln ontJ year- For thirty years only men
were employed, but ln 1875, as an experl-
ment, a few women were taken on, and
ao dexterous did they prove that now the
most Important part the cutting of the
diamonds Is done by them,
When the rough gems come In they are
first taken In hand by men. They do the
splitting that is, divide tha stones that
hav flawa Into pure and flawless gems,
Tha men do thla by hand, holding the
diamond, which haa been firmly waxed
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ROSAXJND AND ORLANTKX
GO-CARTS
The season is now at hnnd when a (Jo-Cart is needed in
every progressive family, and at the prices we are ofering
them you have no good excuse to be without one.
(ilanee at the prices we herewith quote and see if you
can resist the temptation to buy one. Come tomorrow.
Folding (Jo-Carts, heavy rubber tires, like cut. for $2.00
Reclining and Folding (Jo-Cart, rubber tires, rubber hubs,
for .... $3.25
Reclining and Folding (Jo-Cart, reed back and foot rest, rub
ber tires for .v $4.00
Reed 6eat and back, reed arms, reclining back Go-Cart, rubber tires, nickel hub,
for $7.50
Folding and Reclining (Jo-Cart, rubber tires , sateen parasol, for $6.15
LAWN SETTEES
Folding Lawn Settees, made of birch wood, natural finish.
3-foot length $1.40
4 foot length $1.75 5-foot length $2.25
PORCH SWINGS
Weathered oak, five foot Porch Swings, with chains, put
up for $13.50
Weathered oak Porch Swing, 7 ft., with chains, put up
for $8.50
Cushion for same ....$7.50 Pillow for same $2.50
Four-passenger gliding settees, finished natural oak, with
red base for . . $12.00
Porch Swing, rood seat, back and arm (like cut), complete
with chains, put up for $15.00
BEATON
vvrvjrjrrirt Perir-v-" "
in a little frame, in one hand, and with
than half a carat. Yet even the most In-
flnlteslmal anale. on their surface must be
...... ..... n,.., a.
unevicu nun lui uii. mo ui.M,u..un
j still held by being waxed In a littlo frame.
ana oeiore me women Durn jcis m
ready to be used when melted wax Is
needed. For eight hours a day the women
work, skilfully wielding their little pear
shaped diamond tipped tools. And they
receive for this work the magnificent re
muneration of frbm 8 to 30 guilders (J3.21
to $8.04) a week. To be sure, living is not
so expensive in Amsterdam as It is In
America, and these women have at least a
pleasant place to work In. A shop has been
built for them right on the quay, close to
the factory, and they have It all to them
"Ives, and plenty of large wlndowa to
g've them light. Fortunately Mr thftin.
1'Kbt la necessary to their work.
The stones are given to the women In
pockets by the forewoman, and If by
chance a worker loses a gem and cannot
And It she must refund Its value. This
cutting Is responsible work, therefore, and
It Is slow and patient work. Cutting an
ordinary stone, weighing about ten carats.
Is a day's work for a woman.
Society and the Home.
"It la a singular thing," writes Mary
Btewart Cutting In Harper's Bssar, "that
to stand on one'a own rights. In which It
would appear that there ought to be a cer
tain Justice, seems almost always, ln fact,
to be a very narrowing process, death-dealing
to any fine enlightenment. The special
structure Itself rests on the consideration
of the rights of others, and all bocIsI life
In the home rests on it. Nothing Is In
Itself good for anything except In the good
that we get out of it, so that the most
beautifully furnished house, the moat finely
cultured people, may not make for anything
vital, anything that stimulates the Imagin
ation or the heart or the intellect; they may
not give any of the spiritual comfort which
Is Informed with heart-blessing Interest. No
one who goes to such a house gets any
thing from It, as a household, but food and
drink, and comfortable chairs, and outaide
conversation. There Is nothing more to
give you could get tha same In a club or a
hired drawing-room. Yet tha smallest living-room
may have that aspect of home
life ln It which shows it to be the real
thing and a power a power because the ac
tion and retroaction of Intimate and eym
pathetic and uiiHellish Interest among the
members of a family generate some spiri
tual thing which they cannot keep to them
selves which Is greater than themselves.
We all know the difference between the
person who Is conventionally delightful in
dclety and the person who is delightful In
society because she is delightful ut home."
I. rates from Fashion's Notebook.
Some of the loveliest hats oh summer are
made up in white chip, which la ubont the
leaat expensive of I he divasy stiaws. and
one can easily follow the costly model for
these hata In arranging their oVcoral Inn.
It Is a fad of the hour, or we might go
so far as to say. of the seaHon, so strong
is its hold, that all costumea, however
elaborate or whatever ttuur occasion for
being, have a demi-tailored appearance that
pure.
The critical ordeal through
past, however, it to fraught with dread, pain, gufferirijr and danger,
that the very thought of it fill her with apprehension and horror.
There is no necessity for the reproduction of life to be either painful
or dangarout. The ute of Mother' Friend to prepare the tyitem fo
the coining event that it it tafily patted without any danger, Thi
great and wonderful
of women through
thft t r v n cr rricia wirhnnf ftiirTirinap
Rend for Ires hook eusuinlng lnfnrsasuoa
a pnwu.i vaiat lo ii sxpeciaat aioibsrs.
Tkt raatelf Raaalatef Ce, Atltttt, Ga.
413-15-17 South
Sixteenth Street
asaaaa -
Is wonderfully
chic, and that at
imce
stamps them of th" vintage of 1!(7. This
Is strikingly exeniiililled in the use of
Stripes.
Home of the embroidered linen collars,
all of which fasten with two buttons, so
that they ke-p their shape and rlo not
spread apart in front, are m-crmipanled by
little double tabs of lawn embroidered to
match the collar and falling a few inches
below the collar In front. Tlieaa tabs are
rually short ties embroidered on encli end.
High turndown embroidered linen collars
"ro worn with even the Hlii-erest of blouses.
comoined, too. with tho slirf collar, the
finest anil most ft tiikv of rr:iva a nr mhn l.
A narrow tie of sheerest luwn bordered by
narrow Valenelnnes edging -In real luce If
possible and tied In a small how is con
sidered very smart with the embroidered
linen collar, and la made in Unlit tints as
well as In white, though tho while ia pre
ferable. Indications of the sot urn of tlio tuoicj
grow dally more significant, ami, although
us yet It is only suggested by the decora
tion, the suggestions are strong ebO'ij)h to
Insure a more pronounced effect In the faJJ
when heavier fabrics come Into use. ' But,
even when the tunic does return to its
own, it will scarcely bo recognisable as
tlia oversklil of past years with Its high,
close and altogether ugly draping. The d
luanil, however, for soft clinging materials
clearly suggests an overdrapery thut Is at
once artistic and convenient.
Carpenter's Letter
(Continued from Page Three.)
part of their hcuvenly charms.
Another curious idea is as to the age of
men wh m they reach heaven. As they
rise from the graves they will regain the
prime of their manhood. Every one will
be o0, and ha will have the stature of
Adam, who, according to their belief, waa
over fifty feet high and perfect in form.
The Mohammedan's hell is as horrible as
his heaven la beautiful.. It ia composed of
seven stages, one below tha other, varying
la the Intensity of their torments. Tha
first will be devoted to atheista, the second
to tha ldolators of the time of Mohammed,
and the third to the Brahmans. The Jews
will have their quarters ln the fourth hull,
and we Christians are confined to the fifth,
while ln the seventh and lowest of all are
those hypocrites) who profess religion but
practice it not.
Mohammedan Monday.
The Mohammedan Sabbath ia on Friday,
at which time every good believer attends
mosque. On that day the bazaars are
nearly all closed. There la a anrmon'by
the iman or priest, nnd the people go out
during the day to the cemetery and pray
at tho graves.
The Mohammedans have their Lent,
which is known aa Ramadan, This has
taken place during my stay in North Af
rica. It lasts for a month, and for that
time a strict faat is observed. Tha Moharn.
medana then eat nothing at all from day
light until It la so dark thut they cannot
distinguish a white thread from a black
one. They will not drink or smoke, and
the most saintly of them will not even swal
low their spittle. I had a dragoman at
Constantlne who was keeping Ramadan.
Some of our dys were full of hard work
and he spoke again and again of how tired
and hungry he waa and how glad ha would
be when the night came. At the end of
Kamadan it la Halram, or the time of re
joicing. This Is a groat festive oocaHlon,
corresponding somewhat to our Christmas
or Now Year. I'arents then give presents
to their children and friends make calls
upon one another. Every one comes out
In new clothes and the whole Mohammedaal
world gives itself up to holiday feasting.
FRANK O. CARPHJNTtJB,
No woman'i happL,
nest can bo oomplel
without chit dren ; it
it her Datura to lovo
and want them
t much co aa
it is to love the
beautiful and
which the expectant mother must
JsT ffl
gj gj
n
