Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, May 12, 1907, HOME SECTION, Page 5, Image 29

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    TIIK OMAHA SUNDAY BKE: MAY 12. 1007.
New Styles in Linen Gowns
I I Important Items of the ummr
L I . ,1 . .. . Inw.lv BM th
KM I uuini Him w' -... -
new linens, both In colur mid In
quality, that It la difficult to con
tent oneself with on. or two frocks In the
delectable materials. Moreover, th linen
frock answer ao many purposes todny.
It la to be boueht In all grades of elab
era.tl.in. frnm the most severe of tailored
coat ami skirt aulta to the most ornata of
embroidered and lac trimmed prlnccssn
or empire gowns, and In between these
two extremes are a host of pretty dressy
c'mt and tiklrt fn ks, Jumper frocka, etc.
.String colir linens and llnena In the
Jreamy biscuit shadings are particularly
popular this scn'nn ami mora of the smart
tailored coat a and rklrts of linen are
turned out In thee shades than In any
other. White col lara and cuffi may be
ered by hand In wafer dota of contrast
Ingr color rive (toed result) without calling
for much needlerraft or time.
Buttons nvered with linen and embroid
ered with dota. attire or circles of contract
ing color are another of the easily achieved
detalla which give Individuality and dla
tlnrtinn to a aim pie frock.
I.lnens with embroidered dota sprinkled
over their aurfacea have been shown thla
season, but have not taken renarksbly
well, though one area an occasional frork
of dotted linen with the dota In aclf-color.
The allk llnena "tolie do sole" hnrdly
come under the head of linen, but are
offered In beautiful coloring and qualities
and are favorltea with the French niakera.
Toll de sole In wide Pckln stripea of pale
blue and white, roae and white, almond
green and white, etc., la especially modlah,
but though one aces thla material In lm-
THREE LINEN GOWNS, EMBROIDERED AND LACE TRIMMED.
W
o
0
so readily to tubbing aa
coats, but the elaborate
added or not, but aome of the best tailors
' advise tailored collara and cuffa, faced
with whit French pique, and thla touch
of white doea make a coat more becoming
and adda to Ita appearance of coolness.
White linen la of course always liked for
mat and skirt suits, as are the soft dull
blues, and this year the darker tans and
browns are conaklerably In demand, khaki
and saddle brown In particular, although
the latter will undoubtedly look best on
broiling midsummer days.
e tailored Unen coats are fitted or
fitting in the back, loose In front and
whatever length Is best suited to the
arer, although the preference is (or
nparatlvely short coats.
For the dressier coat and skirt suit, the
loose falling coat varying In length from
. V. Mala., Ilntk Co. w.l 1 VlnH I. wn
V'lV . 1 1 nil UD'U I. IUV ...to
as tb preference. Borne very attractive
1st Importations, however, show fitted
ooaU of half length and belted ooats with
half length or even three-quarter length
aklrts, and rumor has it that these longer
coats and coats defining the figure will
lead the late seaaon in Paris.
Tiy do not, of course, lend themselves
do the short loose
laborate Unen gown goes
to the cleanser rather than to the laundry
nowadays.
Soutache braiding) plays an important
part In the ornamentation of the somewhat
elaborate linen coat and skirt costume and
is a trifle newer than hand embroidery,
though It has by no means elbowed the
latter aside. Often the two are combined,
and an effective trimming. Illustrated In
th blue Unen model sketched here, la made
with soutache braiding, whose design is In
ce-taJoi parts filled In with heavy, thickly
set, embroidered knota.
Thla particular model, which was an
extremely chio one, was of dull blue linen
braided and embroidered In white. The
loose Jtla coat with Its jaunty lines and
its gStractlv details was supplemented
by an elaborately braided skirt, as is the
case In most of the French models of tbjs
class, but many women prefer a sampler
skirt trimming.
White Unen coats and skirts trimmed
with narrow Irish crochet Innertion and
band embroidery are made up upon very
simple lines with loose, rollarless. short
sleeved coats and plainly gored skirts.
The heavy openwork Insertion outlines
all th seama and a very narrow correspond
ing edge finishes the borders of the coat.
English eyelet work and heavy blind
embroidery are usually combined in the
bold designs which are embroidered by
band on the runt fronts around the neck,
on the cuffs and around the skirt bottom.
Bmall round medallions of Irish crochet In
the heavy roae design whose petals are
r para to are often Introduced throughout
the embroidery design, being set Into the
linen with openwork stitrhery.
The bold Breton embroideries In red and
blue are greatly liked In Paris for the trim
ming of string color 'and white linens, and
some pretty French models In Unen have
I English openwork embroidery In color on
white or taring coir. Such embroidery
In brown upon natural toned linen Is con
sidered very smart and dull Copenhagen
blue on strlre; color Is very effective.
Similar embroideries In aelf-tone are used
upon llnena In all eolora One of the
Jon Uriels of our llr.en and was In a Uvely
jj.ade of rose Unen and was embroidered
1".y hand In self-tones, the embroidery
bordering the V shaped back and front of
the blouse and forming a panel down the
Reenter front of the plaited aklrt. A very
striking French frock of linen, in the bright
c-nion iT.mi. naoe Known, aa cassia, waa
' coldered In buttonholed scallops and
fcfllsh openwork with white.
Cluny lsce is as popular as Irish ince for
th trimmlrg of linen and Is newer, while
krisome flirt lsces with hand darned de
f I are the handsomest thing that can be
l upon the dressy linen frock.
he Jumper or gulmpe frock of linen Is
( demlc and deslcnrrs are puisllng their
) tins to devise models for such frocka
'. Itch will have originality and set them
I pve the Commonplace. Hand embroidery
ys Its role here, at upon the fancy coats,
there are attractive little gulmpe
I ecus 01 iinrn innimcu miireiy in littl.
I ripping and buttons and selling for
A st reaaooable prices.
M Kn openwork trimmlrg. formed by put
Vlng two rarrow hands of the linen two
and a half or three inches apart and Join
ing them by little straps alternating with
open spaces of the same width of th
straps Is excellent for the Unen gulmpe
frock. ac4 aarrow bands of Unen embroid-
ported models, It seems Impossible to pro
cure it here.
Princess effects In linens run the scale
of pretentiousness from the simple little
gulmpe frocks, with blouse and skirt cut
separate, but having a princess effect,
owing to a box plait running unbroken
from gulmpe to hem, to such elaborate
creations of linen lace and hand embroid
ery as th princess model sketched for this
page. Many Unen gowns, so-called, are of
lace rather' than of Unen, the Unen being
used chiefly in th shapa of hand embroid
ered motifs set into th lace.
$
The Iaverted Rake.
Ther 1 a man in Pittsburg who will be
married in a short while, and will occupy
th house a few rooms of which he has
used during his bachelor -days. He takes
th greatest pleasure in showing his Inti
mate friends about th place, and Is espe
cially delighted at th astonishment they
express when his own "den" is reached.
H has always been a quiet, studious fel
low but as refitted the room gives the
appearance of the lounging place of a
regular rounder. Thar are ranks of long
pipe, photographs of actresses are stuck
about th ohlmney glass, a shelf of beer
steles runs all th way around th room,
and a few ferolnln gloves, handkerchiefs
and fans are scattered about.
"Great Scott, Jack I" the last visitor
gasped, "where did you get this outfit, and
why?"
"Bought out a college fellow," was the
complacent reply. "Just think how pleased
that dear little girl will be when she sees
all this truck and thinks how much wick
cdneaa ah has won me away froral"
Harper's Weekly.
Special
ale off Oiina Cabinets
Again we were fortunate in securing the en
tire SAMPLE STOCK of one of the leading
manufacturers of CHINA CABINETS.
These samples have served the purpose at
the factory as display pieces.
We secured the entire stock at a big bargain
and propose to give our patrons the benefit of
our good fortune.
. There are no two pieces alike. Every piece
is the best example of the manufacturer's product
and for excellent value cannot be excelled.
We quote only a few of the many bargains this sale offers.
Come tomorrow or the day after, as this stock will so
quickly at these prices.
$17.0 Golden Oak China Cabinet, tj PA
24 inches wide, CO inches high . . . laS J J
$20.75 Golden Oak China Cabinet, full swell
front, all quartered and polished, IP 'JC
35 inches wide, 58 inches high ! J
$38.00 Golden Oak China Cabinet, Sheraton
design, all quartered and pol- f
ished, 40 in. wide, 63 in. high 1
$30.00 Fumed Oak China Cabinet, Mission de
sign, leaded glass, top section, y PA
33 in. wide, 63 in. high If.JU
$31,00 Fumed Oak China Cabinet, Mission de
sign, one mirror back, 39 in. Q Cf
wide, 62 in. high lO JU
$32.00 Fumed Oak China Cabinet, Mission de
sign, top section, leaded glass, Q CA
31 in. wide, 64 in. high lZfDJ
$22.50 "Weathered Oak China Cabinet, Mission
design, top section leaded glass, 'Z J C
26 in. wide, 53 in. high 1s f D
$ 16.50 Weathered Oak China Cabi- C
net, 40 in. wide, 60 in. high H'
$36.00 Early English China Cabinet, Mission
design, top section leaded glass, T CA
41 in. wide, 62 in.' high IJU
$39 00 Early English China Cabinet, Mission
design, top section leaded glass, JPA
43 in. wide, 58 in. high J"
$65.00 Early English China Cabinet, full
Bwell front, claw foot and full mir- Z 7 J? f
tot back, 38 in. wide, 64 in. high. m f
$40.00 Mahogany China Cabinet, (T r
claw foot, 48 in. wide, 73 in. high. . .pD
itfiy not yet a nice efiina eaSlnct
jA that pesent one rt'M hnammt
tfie fiovde and make tfie one to rtfiom
ifoa five it ftajyij tfihee times a day.
tftis baCe an ojyftotunitif to
4eeue yne at a $f keduetion. thehe
ae many to select fiiom aiid you can
get a niee me o 7 .5 and the
efioiee&t one made 75
Start Life Anew
When You Clean House
Make up our mind that
you are going to stop be
ing a drudge, chained up
in the kitchen. Resolve
to spend more time In the
parlor, out of doors and
with your family.
Put in a McDougaJl
Kitchen Cabinet, and let
it do half your kitchen
work.
You can' afford one.
It'i no more costly, and
it pay for itself over and
over again.
No thrifty woman can
afford to be without one.
But don't make the
mistake of buying a poor
kitchen cabinet one that
will warn, collect dirt and vermin and fall to pieces.
Hundreds of women are throwing such cabinet away and
buying the McDougall.
It's cheaper to buy the genuine McDougall right at the
start; not expensive.
From $7.50 to $27.50.
Lace Curtain and Portiere Sale
The present remarkable LACE CURTAIN AN J) PORTIERE sale, lasting until next SATURDAY
night, has proved the most successful of all our sales.
By securing many unapproachable bargains by the big importer's close-out we have given our
patrons bargains long to be remembered.
This entire stock has and will continue to contribute toward making this a lasting event. The
last shipment of this stock has arrived and will be placed on sale together with the balance of the stock,
beginning Monday morning at 8:00 o'clock.
Prudent buyers cannot afford to miss this opportunity to secure the latest styles of Lace Curtains
and Portieres at y regular value.
Dentelle Arabian, Novelty Arabian, Ca
ble Net, Colored Net, Brussels Net,
Irish Point, Scotch Madras, Novelty
Cable Net, worth from $7.60 C 7 C
to $11.50; sale price, per pr.J.
Brussels Net, Scotch Madras, Cable
Net, Irish Point, worth from $6.60
to $11.00 sale J. CI C
price n(,JD
Ruffled Swiss and Nottingham Cur
tains, worth from $1.25 to
$2.25; sale price, per pair.
75c
Snowflake, Ruffled Swiss and Notting
ham Curtains, worth from $1.60 to
$3.00 sale price, per Q"
pair JDC
Nottingham, Irish Point, Novelty Bat
tenberg. Ruffled Net, Arabian, Cable
Net, Snowflake, Cluny, worth from
$4.00 to $6.00 Bale price, y r
per pair .JJ
Extra Heavy Tapestry and Annure
Portieres, 60 Inches wide, all colors;
worth from $5.00 to $7.00; T
sale price, per pair ,&D
Point Fillet, Duchess, hand-made Bat
tenberg. Saxony, Brussels, Ivory Bat
tenberg, Marie Antoinette Curtalna,
worth from $16 to $20.00; Q O C
sale price, per pair J, JO
Mercerized Tapestry, heavy border ef
fects, worth from $10.00 to $13.00;
sale price, per "7 C
pair 0.1 D
Odd pair Portieres, all colors and
Quality, at prices far below the cost of
manufacture.
MilIrP Stewart
eatoo
413-15-17 South 16th Street.
Mrs. Taft Points Women the Way o Highest Happiness
Woaaaa's Hobleat Career.
LX, women. It Is true, are not
called upon to preside over a
horn or to rear children, but all
broad-minded women admit that
this Is th loftiest type of use
fulness."
Thla aentenc from an Interview with Mra
William Howard Taft, wtr of th secre
tary of war, by a representative of th
Philadelphia North American, gives th.
keynote of th character and tdeala of th
wife of the most noted member of Presi
dent Roosevelt's official family.
Mrs. Taft was discussing college education
for women when shs gav utterance to
th sentence quoted In the foregoing. Her
self a woman of high culture, she Is a
Ann believer In advanced learning for hr
sax.
But Mrs. Taft has no patlenc with that
cult of th "n.w woman" who believes
that marriage and mot he-hood do not an
awer the bwt Ideals, and who find them
aulves "wedded to their art" or some other
unappwlatlv. and unresponsive thing.
"Higher education for women," Mrs.
Taft laughed; "well, my daughter haa
elected to take a full college courae at Bryn
Mawr, and la now studying diligently In
order to enter the college next autumn.
I believe In th best and moat thorough
education posslhl for every one men and
women and It la a source of deep grati
fication that all my children sr. studious.
"My Idea about higher education for
women la that It makes them great in soul
aa well as In Intellect. It never seemed to
me that It should make them poor Imita
tions of men. I am old-fashioned enough
to think that woman la the complement of
man. and that what Is most feminine about
her is most attractive to man. And, there
for, of th greatest utility to the world.
"I could never sc. sny fundamental su
periority or Inferiority. Th. only superi
ority lies in th. way la which the responsi
bilities of life are discharged. Judged by
this standard some womea are superior to
men, and soma husbands fall very much
below their wives, some brothers below
their sister.
"Education for women and aa much aa
thty can obtain, to my mind, possesses
larger advantages than th. commercial
on. of providing a mean of making, when
It Is necessary, a good livelihood. Thla,
I do not deny, la a potent advantage, but
fur th. aggregate woman, th. mission Is
to preside over a home and to fulfill the
highest obligations of womanhood.
"Education, which really educates heart,
mind and body, glvea the grace and ability
and the exalted aense of duty necessary to
fill that hlg-h destiny In th. home.
"It doea not seem to me that college edu
cation make a girl either unfit for do
mestic obligations or maaculine In her
tastes. AH women, it la true, are not
called on to preald. over a home, or to
rear children, but all broad-minded women
admit that thla la th loftleat type of use
fulness. Few women willingly renounce
that moral greatnesa which makea a woman
a queen, even In the humblest home, for
Intellectual or profesaional triumph.
"Aa for masculinity developing from a
college courae, why every sensible grl
wants to b. great as a woman, not as a
man, and she will sedulously avoid all that
Inclines to mannlshness."
Personally, Mrs. Taft is as attractive as
she is Intellectual. She la fair, alrnder and
girlish-looking, and it seems incredible that
sh. has a son old enough to b. In college.
She is frank and vlvacloua. though she
posseseea dignity to a marked degree and
the self-poise neceeaary for th. successful
hostess.
She poesesse that Invaluable cunjlty of
th. wit. of a polltlclan-an excellent mem
ory. She has, likewise, the habit of being
cordial. All social leaders admit that cor
diality of manner mui be cultivated, aince
It is Impoealbls to be really glad to see
utter strangers or to take an Interest In
very commonplace people. Mrs. Taft has
mastered thla art most completely.
Informally and In her home, the wife of
the secretary of war la seea at her best.
She is an excerient illustration of her text
that culture and accomplish metita. perfect
a woman In the dlscharg. of her domestic
dutte. Her home la paramount In rplt
of her deep Interest In many Intellectual
pursuits; her frank devotion to her hus
band and children Is th most attractive
aide of her character.
There are three Taft children. Th. eld
est, Robert Alphonso Taft. ia In his lth
year. To the great Joy of hla mother, he
baa selected the hereditary profession, Ian,
as his life work.
The only daughter. Miss Helen Herroo
Taft. named for her mother, la the pride
Of th. household. She' la an exceptionally
brilliant girt, tall and slat-ly In appear
ance and devoted to books. Sh. Is 14 past.
Oharlla la the classmate cf Que ruin
Roosevelt, at the Force public school, and
within two weeks of being th. same age, 10
years.
XsaUekrl's lettlcoat Bow.
"Petticoat Row" Is the mor famous title
by which Centra street In Nantucket Is
known. Although It Is the principal busi
ness street, th little shop with which It
is lined are all run by women.
Th. attention of the summer visitor
sauntering along th well waahed side
walk Is first attracted to a sign, modestly
tacked p by the door of a store and bear
ing the brief Inscription, "H. G. Sheffield,
Buttons and Trimmings." Miss Sheffield
Is called by th Nantucket correspondent
of th Boston Herald "the Nestor of th
business women of Nantucket."
Her ability in that line seems to hav.
been 4 ell demonstrated, for years ago she
purchased a sixuble block, where she makes
her home and conducts her business, rent
ing the remainder of her building at a
good profit. When th. women folk of Nan
tucket lack ar.y Utile notion or want to
match a peculiar kind of button they al
ways go to "Hannah'a" and find what they
are looking for.
Opposite Miss Sheffield's store is a mil
linery shop conducted by Miss Ella F.
Sylvia, who a year ago purchased th busi
ness from tie Misses Coffin, two maiden
women who spent the best part of their
lives on Petticoat Row.
Next comes La Mod, a store 4 here fancy
work, dress goods, etc., are always on sale
by Mrs. M. A. Husaey, who knows how
to meet the Nantucket trad with exactly
th. kind of gooda that it demands, and
doea a thriving business.
Miss Nellie Keane occupies tb. stor. ad
Joining Iji Mode with a line of millinery
that Is certainly a credit to Nantucket.
And ao the Hat goea on to the very end of
Petticoat Row.
Llvlas; by th Book.
Ther. ia a little girl In New York being
brought up according to the very atricteat
of modern scientific Ideae. Although the
up-to-date methods apply to her sleeping,
playing, dress, exercise and many other
things as well, It Is their effect upon ber
eating which s.ems to make th. greatest
Impression upon th. poor littl. rule-rlddea
damsel. I'p to the age of I ah. waa per
mitted to cat a prescribed list of articles,
severely limited; during the next year her
menu was widened by a certain number of
ethers, aud now that ss Is uavcllng
toward her fifth birthday a few mora have
been added. Nothing new is allowed, how
ever, without a consultation of the volume
which serves as a guide. Th other day
th little girl was lunching with her mother
at the house of a friend. A dish which
looked attractive, but which was not within
the child's acquaintance, was placed upon
the table.
"Oh, . mother," she exclaimed, looking
up with eyes (n which hope and doubt
mingled, "is Is that In the bonk?"
Womts as Mall Carriers.
Postmaster Fenton of Boise City, Idaho, In
authority for the statement that the Boise
postofflce has all other postofflces In the
country beaten in on. reaped, and that Is
the employment of women as rural car
riers. There are four rural routes out of
Boise and three of these routes are carried
by women now.
Beginning May 1 Mollie Stewart, who for
years haa claimed the undisputed title of
champion broncho buster and trick rider
of th northwest, took up the duties of de
livering the mall for rural route No. X the
heaviest route out of Hols. Sh. is the
third woman to break into the work here.
Her route Is twenty-alx miles In length. It
Is on the south side of the river and takes
In all the terrltpry covered by the Rlden
baugh canal. Miss Stewart starts on her
dally Jaunt nt T o'clock In the morning and
csrrles a heavy mall, having on her route
about 225 boxes.
Rout. No. t has been carried for th. laat
month by Mra. I jura Wiseman. This
route la twenty-six mile In lergth; down
the valley road and back by the foothills
road. She serves 19n patrons dally.
Mrs. Susan Hoagland haa been carrying a
rural rout, for the local poatoffice for three
months now. She carries No. 4. which In
cludes the territory covered by the New
York canal. About '.DO patrons are served.
Hhede I ala ad's Woman Jailer.
In In thi? quiet old village of East
Greenwich, where th. ancient penal Institu
tion officially known as th Kent county Jail
doses laaily rear the shore of th bay, Mrs.
Eivelyn G Smith holds the unique position
of Jailer and has the distinction of btlng
the only woman at the head of an Institu
tion of this sort In th. New England atates.
The Kent county Jail waa erected about
1-0 years ago, relutes the Providence Jour
nal, and for th greater part of that time
has been handed down in Mra. Smlth'a
tainlly Uk. as ancient heirloom. It la lE.
only home that th present keeper has
ever known, and In spit, of th seeming
Incongruity of her sex snd position, sfio
enjoys tha work and thus far has experi
enced less trouble with unruly prisoners
than have men in similar positions..
The Jail consists of a large two snd a
half story house of the boxlike type that Is
found all over Rhode Island as landmarks
of a century ago. In the rear of the old
fashioned house Is a large wing constructed
of brick, which contains the cells. Tb
wing waa built-about seventeen years ago
and took the place of a fram structure
of the same size and shape.
Mrs. Smith owes her present position to
an Incident that happened In th. hazy his
tory of sixty-five years ago. At that time
the Kent county Jail was placed In charg
of Earl Place, a irranduncle of Mrs. Smith.
He held the title for a couple of years,
when It was passed along to hi brother,
Jonathan Place, who waa Mrs. Smith's
grandfather. When he died his son, John S.
Place, Inherited his property and th title
of official Jailer.
John S. Place. Mra. Smlth'a father, re
tained the title during his lifetime, with the
exception of a few years, when he travelel
for his health, and thus It was that the
present keeper .became acquainted with tha
duties at a very early age.
His daughter waa united In marriage with
Jothan S. Smith, and when her father died
thirty-five years ago her husband was ap
pointed to succeed him. He held the posi
tion for eight years, and as there were no
more male helta to the title, It was thought
thnt It would puss out of the family.
8in after her husband died Mrs. Smith
began to make preparations to remove from
what had always been her home, when she
was approached hy the officials of Kent
county and requested to aaume charge of
the place on her own responsibility. Dur
ing the falling health of her hushand she
had practical control of the Jail, and the
county officials expressed th. belief that
with ber intimate knowledge of the needs
of the Institution she would be able to di
rect Ita ar?alrf better than a man who
larked th. knowledg. and experience. She
coi.sonted to the arrangement and alnce
that time has had absolute control cf all
that pertains to the Jail.
Leaves From Fash Ion's ot Book.
The little nine-Inch ao,uare handkerchiefs
with colored hemstitched borders, which
have been such a fad the ltiat year, make
dsinly back bows. A small piece must b.
cut out of thesa for th knot, and then th
two ends are pleated and sewn together.
The linen costume in both white and
colors Is destined for an unprecedented
vogue this summer, and here, too, embroid
ery has preference over any other mode
of decoration, and over the plain or self,
trimmed creation which was so largely th
mod. last season.
One of the newest things In smart neck
wear la the butterfly bow of whit, lawn,
I lies, bows are easily made and most ef
fective, worn with the embroidered linen
collar on a tailor made shirtwaist. On
great advantage Is that all eons of odd
and ends of laces may be utilised Ito trim
th bows. I
Lace Is little used on the heavy linens,
but is seen In even greater profusion than
ever on tha mulls, batlmes and other thin
materials, while th costume of fine, soft
linen is also used In profusion, but always
In a flat effect. LJnen in its Very qusllty
forbids the accession of many frills and Is
alwaya at Its best developed with ma chin
stitching and handsome .mhroldery.
Th plnnfore styles admit or some fas
cinating nsea of the more delicate forms
Of embroidery, and the Increasing dainti
ness of the lingerie waist, which, In spit
of dire proimoBtlcHtlons hi to Its speedy
elimination from the fsshion list, is mora
in favor than ever, haa given excus for
more and yet m re exquisite specimens of
needlework.
Hand-made Jabots are much worn. They
are in all lengths, the lingerie jabot ex
tending from th. neck to the belt some
times. They can be made of Irish crochet,
cluny or Valenciennes lace, all of which
wash well. The strip of Inwertlon down th
center should be two or three Inches wide;
narrow lace is pleated or gathered on th
edge, and at the nerk Is a luce bow with
a knot of aome light allk.
It Ij getting to he a positive craze, th
f:id of making the costume mutch, and th
Idea, Instead of becoming rather old-fash-lonvd.
grows more and more in favor. It
has come to pass now that each irown
must have Its complete setting of all things
to match. And this fever f'ir matching
the gown Is not confined to the house nor
to the street, but It has extended to th.
KOif field, the croquet ground, the hathlntr
befleh and all the other sports.
Mrs. Roosevelt has yielded to the golden
brown mo'le, snd her latest evening gown
Is of an exquisite aatln. which shimmers
In gaslight like the rays of the setting
sun. It Is embellished with heavy oriental
lace with the deslvn outlined in golden
and gemmed threads and a most artUtio
t'uch is a cluswr of autumn leaves, merely
flecked w'th Jewels, which mnke a half
chnnlet for th hair. Pronze slippers wlh
a big Tuscan gold buckle ere Just th
thing for such a toilet. Mrs. Roosevelt
wore this Kwn st her now furu.ua must
rale, at which the Indian opera "Pol"
was produced, and she never hoked more
gtrlixh and charmlna; Another effectlv
costume is of black broedcloth with a
cutaway coat and embroidered linen
blouse. Th. skirt clears th. ground hy
a good three Inches and Is untrimmei
save by three wide bias folds. The coat
Is lined with grass green satin and a hint
of this color stiows on th collar aud
cuffa