E
Some New Styles in Belts, Buckles and Girdles
THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: APRIL 14, 1007. f
I I Item In the nummer mitfit. VI, e
on ftinftrthr-? n)iin eui:liiti'(i
lih an attrmtlve hilt and mod
uli tipi kwur, and thin neaeon there In more
opportunity for clever hol' e In inch de
tun than there tina le n In many a iienson.
The new collar, Mock, tie, rab.it ,
frillw, etc., ore nltouet her charming and the
df nlirnera and maker of belt have
M hleved tipt aiicer In their Una. The
perfection to which the lather workers
have brought the arts of dyeing and curing
hn much to do with the ad'led beauty of
tl.e belt.
There 1. apparently, no fashionable
hn!e which can not be matched In leather
of the (Treat eat oftnese and suppleness, and
In the btlt department of certajn shops
noted for the scope and variety In their
assortment of uch jroocls one Is likely to
find a smart leather t;lt to harmonize with
almost any street costume.
The number and beauty of the brown
belts l a conspicuous feature of the show
ing. There have always been belts of tan
and of brown leather, but never has there
been so wide a range of brown shadings
or o varied an assortment of designs.
Concerning the width of the belt there
appears to be no fixed rule. One sees the
severe narrow leather belt with harness
buckles; but the wider crush belts ara
much In evidence, and these crush belts
In the buckles In back and front are pre
sented In amazing variety.
Tortoise shell buckles Hre attractive upon
the brown leather, but are liked even better
In association with white leuthcr beltts.
Klther the light amber shell or the darker
mottled brown I used and a large clrclo
for the back, with on" smaller for the
front, Is the favored design. Occasionally
tlm shell Is ptiiibl' d with cut steel, but the
plain shell buckle Is part Icularly effective.
The clrclo bucklu In leather, plain or
Keel, Is popular, thp leather belt being
drawn full through the buckle, giving a
shirred effect. Plain burnished gold buckles,
too, are good upon the brown leather.
The light biscuit, sand color, putty color
and similar shades are prominent nmong
the new leathers, harmonizing well with
these same popular shades In linen, pongee,
cloth, etc.
All of the old roe, raspberry nnd dull
red tones are to be found In leather, and
the apricot gray and green tones, as well.
Tho blues are not so good, but lovely
shades of blue aro offered In the elastic
holts, which rival those of leather on
fashion's list.
These elastic belts have been worn all
during the last year, but the designers
Nave developed many new Ideas In the
bravy silk elastic, and by combining elastlo
tied leather have achieved excellent results.
Tnn or brown leather combined with white
eJastlc Is a favorite motif and, since the
hoemakets have taken up the same color
scheme and are offering very smart shoes
In brown leather and white duck or white
doeskin, tho belts nnd shoes together sug
gest many good Ideas for summer and out
ing toilets. A white linen frock, one of the
The Monument to
Poor Work
A Wail of J i scon tent
HERB I am the Monument to Poor
Work
1 have every Defect It's possible
for a Suit to have.
My Collar is Shapeless and 111 Fitting
It stands uloof from the Hack of my Neck.
My Lapels liulge In a most disconcert
ing Fashion my Shoulders, in place of
being Smooth and "Clean tittlng" are
"broken down" and Wrinkled at the Kdges.
Would that I could Improve myself but,
alas, I'm only a Kesult the Cause of me
I do not Control
The Cause of me Is the poor Work of
Those Two who are trying to tilu them
away.
The Incompetent Tailor and his Chief
Accomplice Old Ur. Goose the Hot Flat
Iron.
I was poorly cut and made up by that
rascally Tailor tho Foundation of my
present lefecta were luid by him.
And, instead of having me Carefully
taken to pieces and made over by Expert
Needlewoi kers to remove as much as pos
sible bis Mistakes
Forsooth, I was banded over to his Right
Hand Accomplice the cheap Old Dr.
(loose to be sizzled and stretched and
pressed and shrunken until I appeared to
be a Well Made Salt
Would thut I were really well made.
Mko "Sincerity" Suits.
"Sincerity" Suits me built on a Solid
foundation of Excellence.
They are properly PeslRned Carefully
Cut and made up by Expert Needleworkers
who sew permanent Shape and Style into
the Cloth from which they're made.
A "Sincerity" Suit, when It leaves the
Expert Needleworkers' hands, I Tailored
not merely put together.
It Is then put through a Rigid and
Searching Inspection and Slight Altera
tions to make a Ferfeot Bait Is made by
the expensive and slow process of taking
the Suit apart and Bs-maklnf the part to
be Altered.
While I. forsooth, and the 80 per cent of
Poorly Made Suits like me, are only
temporarily "doped" by the Hot Pressing
Iron Old rr. Ooose.
That' wby I'm a Monument to Poor
Work Shunned by all men.
The genuine goodness of the Making of
"Sincerity Clothes" li the Cause of their
being worn by the best clad In this
Country.
See that your next Suit Is a "Sincerity"
Suit Your best ready-to-wear dealer will
Carry them. Just examine them the next
time you think of It Tou won't be naked
to buy See that this lahel Is In the Coat.
It's the guarantee of Ftyle Service a;id
Satisfaction.
I
decoral-d by Imudwine bu kin at back
and front and often elaboratly studded
with cut steel, have been worn for two
seasons, but appear In new guises this
spring and fit the figure so snugly that
many women prefer them to any other
wide girdle.
In some of the handsomest models there
Is no trimming on the bottom, the Idea
V - .-Lrm If
f fffeM
y ''"sl;
7 "
(MM
r.EI.TS OF OOT.n niBTS'iK. WHITE
SATIN'. PATENT LEATHER WITH
HItASS WEHI'INO WITH LEATHER
M'1NTS, PLAID LEATHER AND TWO
PELTS OF STRAW.
fashionable brown hats, a brown and white
belt and brown and white shoes would tit
out the summer girl In admirable style.
One of these brown and white models
ha been sketched for this page. The
body of the belt Is of the heavy white elas
tic, while strapping, buckle nnd lacing are
of brown leather.
Ribbed belts of elastlo. In plain colors,
with severe b ickles of dull or burnished
gold, arc practical things with the severe
tailor costume and como In all of the ac
cepted shades. The wide girdles of elastic
yy n nrw
being to match the skirt in the belt color
und so avoid an abrupt line of demarca
tion. Around the top of the deep elastic
girdle Is a design embroidered In cut steel
beads, often relieved by touches of coral,
turquoise or other colored stones.
The buckles, of course, echo the coloring
of the embroidery. Some of these belts
command very high prices and, Indeed, a
n ajority rf tl.o modlrit belts are by tv
mi at.s Inexpensive.
Plaid leather and plaid elastic bo:h figure
among the new belts, and one -es both
the gay, tartan plaldlng and the more
quiet plaldlng In white and brown, white
and green, white and black, etc. Often
the buckle as well ns tHe belt Is plalded,
being either enameled to match the belt
or covered with the belt material.
Striped leathers and elastic also are to
be taken Into account, and wo have seen
some effective dotted belts bound In plain
Lather.
Patent leather Is used for some excellent
models of the narrower types und Is finished
simply by good, though severe buckles or,
perhaps, Is studded, ns was the patent
leather belts of our sketch, with round
bras knobs. Plack patent leather Is used,
too, for the trimming of belta In white or
light color.
A new belt material which really looks
better than It sounds Is found In straw.
Some of the Imported belt models In this
material are as pretty as they are bizarre,
both belt and buckle being made of finely
rlalted, flexible straw, held by lines of
metal.
Another French Idea Is the combining of
pongee and atraw, In their natural shad
ings, but these, of course, are fashion
fantasies and the average woman will pre
fer more conservative belts.
One very exclusive firm makes a specialty
of very wide soft belts of leather, steel
studded and finished with steel studded
leather buckle, or plain and having a hand
some monogram buckle of gold, silver or
gunmetal. The chief bcuuty of these belts
lies In the extreme suppleness of the leather
and In the beauty of the colorings, even
the most subtle of the season's shades be
ing furnished, If ordered.
Embroidered linen belts are to be worn
more than ever nnd one may buy them In
all grades of elaboration, from tho simple
belt with embroidered dot to the linen
belt elaborately embroidered In Intricate
design. Of course, cheap machine em
broidered linen belts abound, but it Is easy
to distinguish the hand embroidered nrtlcU
from that embroidered by machine. White
pearl buckles are the best thing for such
belts, and the linen so buttons to the buckle
than it is an easy matter to remove It and
launder It.
In ribbon belts nnd girdles the variety
is limited only by the variety In handsome
ribbons, and that seems endless. There
Ini, (lio f-im-y h.i, kl. find fullest Por.
but the art Inn kles must be seen to be ap
preciated. Inscription cannot da them
Justice.
All of the eml-pr clou s'oiv are pressed
Into serviie for them and beautiful effects
are obtained In art enamel The ex.juisile
flowered ribbons are often used for these
handsome, wide crush belt and very hand
some heavy ribbons are woven In widths
suitable for narrow belts, the plaid and
stripe designs being conspicuous among
these heavy silk bands.
Leaves From Fashion's "Notebook.
The dark liner make a delightful change
from the eternal light washing gowns, and
In some of the new colors, in well us the
old, promise to be most attractive;
Plack laoe are most beautifully em
broidered for this purpose: but It Is for tea
gowns nnd matinees that the lace coat runs
rampant, and a great many beautiful de
signs are being mail In it.
Bashes and plaits coming from Just above
the waist-line or between th shoulders
give the effect of a high bust; the skirts
have to be medium length, but the front
and the lack should be long enough to rest
on the ground.
Bcru and silver, with a lino of dark blue
running through it. Is one of the new wool
voile designs, and a simple ttern shows
regular inch-square check designated by
quarter-Inch linns in alternating blue and
gold on a blue ground.
Somewhat new and decidedly beautiful
Is an evening frock formed of layers of
palost tinted silk net, very fine In pink,
blue, mauve, green, and f rth, imitating
an opal, and embroidered with an exqutsi'e
de-sign In opal beads larg bugles, cabo
cliona, and cut crystals.
The empire mode Is c.nsplcuous In the
gowns for evening, but In a modified form
that Is favored by maid and matron and
under skillful manipulation becomes ex
ceedingly artistic. The princess robe yet
retaliiH Its prestige and In the filmy fabrics
that conmiiind attentiin tltis season it
severity in lessened by garniture of lace and
embroidery. Marquisette, chiffon, mull, and
transparent materials of all kinds, with
soft si.ks, chlff n velvet and panne are on
tho modish list and handwork Is a feature
of all the modes.
For walking and shirtwaist suits the
plain and fancy silks are used according
to the purpose they are to serve. These
U, may be trimmed with hat ds of con
trasting material. The correct skitt of
this order leaches barely to the ankles,
displaying thereby the vli le foot. The
pioitcd skirt, or the one that hangs from
hip-length plaits Is used, and there Is
a new design especially adapted to the
soft silks. The top part is cut in seven
or nine gores, which reach to the knees,
where It meets a fulb-d tlounce or ruille,
and the two are joined underneath a
shaped bias band, which Is stitched nnd
may be further ornamented as desired.
The Ar( of
Ermele
Novelli
N
EW YORK, April 11. "The street,"
said Signer Ermcte Novelli, "Is
the best dramatic school that
there Is."
He wan sitting in the Turkish
room of the Waldorf-Astoria, facing the
crowded thoroughfare, where hansom cabs,
automobiles nnd pedestrians formed a con
tinuous procession. He watched it Intently
for a time, while expressions ranging from
serious to the amused chased one another
across his face.
Incidentally, It may be said that SIgnor
Novelli does everything intently. His tall,
well knit frame Is full of action. His face
reflects his thoughts.
He Is the Incarnation of the misplaced.
Ho was Intended for another age, for an
ago of romance. He wears the conven
tional garb of the twentieth century with
unconscious protest. He offsets the com
monplace In his ctnthea liv Inn.tli.ir hid
lingers with rings which stop only at the ,l,,a,ilnS' Perhaps, but that has
thumb and Include strange, hmre circle trau6 of originality.
of elaborate chasing and weird colored
stones.
It is his first visit to the United States
nnd he confesses himself utterly unahle
to cope with the many problems of life
"I have beon accused here by some of
the cntics of playing Petruchlo in 'The
Taming of the Shrew' with more under
sUtndins of Shakespeare's significances
than some others because that Is so re
presented to his view daily. Judging from ,?ntially an Italian play and exhibits cer-
hls modesty in this direction, there Is no ,ulu Pbases oi' the ItaJlan temperament bet-
dunger that ho will publish his Impressions ter than "-"V other.
as soon as he returns home. Put that he "After a study of Shakespeare that ex-
Is stilting away Impressions was evident as tends over my whole life, I can say that
iiiii i 1 1 i ii ,1 i in m ! imp, ii ri-iir,- i i iT i , cCy irffuttt.!fJi
he repeated again bis remark that the
character uctor can get his greatest in
spiration from watching the faces of the
people In tho market place, in the dally
walks of life, In tho crowded centers, and
that the greatest masters of all time have
studied there.
"Shakespeare," he said, "wus the great
est writer of all time because with his
wonderful sympathy and undui btandlng he
the wonderful underlying truth of his whole
work seems to me to be that he haa abso
lutely no nationality in his dramas, no
age of the world. They are played today,
although Ulcy were written ill the sixteenth
century, Lxc.aii.se they are true today as
they were then.
"The fundamental difference of the man's
nature and the woman's makes the story
-f Petruchlo and Katheiine Just as effective
studied men and women as be found them, to the people of New York us it would be
not in noons and In tho Imagination, not by in St. Petersburg. I play Petruchio us I
watching the work of others and imitating play Shylock. Othello, all diameters that
It. but faco to face; the comers und goers, I essay, mistakenly perhaps from tho stand
those he met in bis profession. In his IKint of the critic, but as I have inter
home, In the book shop. In this place, thut preted It myself, without the aid of an
place or the other. other's reading, although I do not deny
"The difference between the artist and that the other reading may be truer than
him who Is merely an actor Is that the one Illy own. But tne oUwr g interpretation
creates his art. the other mwrely copies, would do me no good, for then I Bhould
The artist, like Shakespeare, takes nny not be an artist, only an actor, it I ac
story or legend or pluy that cornea his Ci pted It in lieu of my own.
way nnd with the genius of his art creates "Hamlet" And for a moment Novelli
something that he presents to the world, was silent. "They say my nose Is too long
The actor, on the contrary, studies the for a Hamlet and that I am. not youthful
MM
"THE STREET 13 THE GREATEST SCHOOL IN THE WORLD."
work of other people, cleverly mosaics one ' That Is one thing I like about Amerl
to the other until he produces Komethlns cans. They do not lack In respect to the
In it no great ones who have died. They do not
forget them. They pay due honor to their
memories. No one can go Into that club
and see the little mementoes of Booth
without feeling the sentiment of 1L"
In discussing the comparative merits of
Italian actors, Novelli mentioned Morelll
ns being, to his mind, the greatest of
all with the one exception of Tommaso
Salvlnl. Morelll, be said, was great In
every role, his versatility wns marvelous.
And Rossi was great, too. In the society
drama, but Salvlnl "well, I have no words
to express my admiration of his genius,"
Mr. Novelli said. He made a gesture
which expressed more than tongue could
say, and when Novelli has reached tho
end of his vocabulary it means more than
the Incapacity of the average speaker.
Novelli then spoke of his early years.
From 10 to 10 he knew what It was to suffer
from wnnt, for his father had fallen from
tho high estate of actor and actor man
ager, and finally had only a small salary' as
prompter In an insignificant company and
his pay was often in arrears.
Then the boy, Ennete, did chores about
the theater, giving his money to his father,
whom he adored so much that he often
went hungry himself, and meanwhile ho
took every opjortunlty to stand In the
wings, listening with rapt attention to
everything that was said, studying the
methods of recitation and the art of the
actor.
One evening he took it upon himself to
express to an actor the contempt he felt
for a. portrayal of a mood of desperation
In which the mun had no expression at his
command but to tear his hair. To his re
gret he found that the actor had other
means at hand when ho wished to show
his indignation to a small boy, and
Ermete's bruised body forbade his prac
tising in the role of critic again for a good
many ycuts. It niuy be that in this in
cident is the secret of Novolli's tolerant
attitude toward the critic-si
When he first began to act his father
agnln. Reflection came and with It the bill.
"I made up my mind hustlly thnt there
was little use In being an actor If one could
not be one when an emergency arose as
well as a curtain. I took my valise in
hand, smiled my loftiest nt the waiter, told
him that I would place It In the diligence
so thnt I could get a good place and would
then return to settle my account.
"He never questioned me with a sus
picious glance, so I took the bug out and
begged them to keep It as hostage until I
should pay my fare, and in the meantime,
tho bill for my dinner? Again did my
histrionic ability prevail and they did as
I requested without question.
"1 did not, however," concluded Novelli,
modestly, "allow my overwhelming success
as an actor to overweigh my knowledge
df my obligations as an honest man, nnd I
repaid in time every cent that I hud bor
rowed. Hut, oh. that dinner! and oh, the
surpassing satisfaction of playing the
game with such a critical audience to mark
the time of my ability."
Novelli is a master of makeups. His six
fet oild of height, wh-ii he says 4s no
unusual stature for an Italian of northern
Italy the men of Verona and Its vicinity
being especially of lofty stature, a fact
which makes him think thut Romeo was
tall and slight he t on make shoit at will,
and he can add weight until he is a ver
itable Falstaff in appearance; or he can
create an agile figure for a young lover.
His long nose, which, when he first began
to play, waa hailed as the Indubitable
mark of the born comedian, Is broad, short,
ucqulllne or Roman as he wills, and whon
he Is depicting the comedian It gives his
face a droll expression which seems to
make excuse for those early times when
his audiences would not let him essay trag
edy. Ills fifty odd years he treats as a
woa tn despair, for he simply would not bagatelle, like his weight and height, when
uae the w.wd of the accepted text. When they stand In the way of his chosen char-
they struck lilin as silly or unsulted to tlie acter.
situation, he would Improvise words of bis Like Palzae, who roamed the streets to
own In spite of the protests of ths manager find appropriate names for his characters,
arid the other players. The public recognised so ho roams about looking for second-hand
his cleverness, stood by him and helped shops where he con find Just the outfit
him to gain little by little the originality
of method that has made him one of the
famous actors of the world.
Finally he reached the point where he
became his own manager and was able to
train otheis In the way he had trained hi in-
self. Having succeeded In forming a com-
necessary to accentuate th peculiarities of
some fantastic role. He has chests full of
overcoats of every age and mode, gro
tesque hats and an array of properties of
one kind or another. He has a collection
of wigs which he began to make, literally
with his own hands, when he was hard up,
longer 30: perhaps I have passed the time
when a man should try to play that char
acter, but I love It. It has brought ma
more fains, given me more pleasure and
more gold than any other role I have ever
tried.
"I don't think Hamlet was a Dane any
more than he was an Englishman or an
Italian. Ho was a man of universal type a
man with the weaknesses, the sadnesses,
the d.-slres and the futilities of men cf all
time and of every nation.
"In the character of Hamlet, Shakespeare
reaches the climax of his genius. He por
trayed there the battles that rack the hu
man soul, doubt and mystclsm, love and
hatred. He showed in him true and pre
tended madueas. I It any wonder that I
love to play Hamlet In spite of the New
York critics?
"Booth?" and Novelli shook his head
vlth a regretful sigh. "I never had the
ileasure of hearing Booth, but a few das
ago I went as guest to the Player's club
nm1 mum there Introduced to th relic hn
BH'.NOR NoVEIJ.I. IMPRESSED WITH . . ,h, ,,., , h,
THE SIGNS OF OCR CIVILIZATION. ,e,t ,n that tnlf 10 bl ,uu
know (sadly) that I am no pany to hla taste, he passed through all the and today will not wear one that he has
towns and cities of Italy and everywhere
gained laurels. Then he went to Spain
and to South Ajn erica, France, England
and tn fact to ail parts of the theater liv
ing world.
"Once," ha said, "when I was only 13
my father und I were engaged by the De
Sanctis company, he aa prompter and I In
very small parts. We were to Join the rest
In a small town In M.uitua, but we had no
money to travel the usual way and I de
cided to go on foot, while my father cojld
borrow money sufficient for his Journey.
"I walked an entire day and night like
Renxo in the 'Proineasl Pponl.' but while
lie was only In fear of being pursued by
the police I was actually pursued by a
consuming hunger, and had neither cnurt
of bread nor lira m my pocket to obtain
wherewith to appease It. I arrived at
Pegglo to be conf rented by a restaurant,
and with great assuranoe entered and
ordered a dinner.
"Having consumed enough for four or
fiva people I becama a normal person
not refitted to his need, with an experience
gained In the time when he fitted wigs for
other actors.
Referring, at the lust, to the American
methods of advertising, Novelli held up his
hands while a look of horror, succeeded by
one of traglco-comlc mirth, and lastly by
one of stupefied wonder, took poasesslun
of thut wonderful face.
"Slgnorlna, I have never seen anything
like It- I can't help wondering why you
don't chse all your windows and advertise
on them; It really seems a great pity to lose
all that space, now, doesn't it?
"I have only had the good fortune to hear
two of your American artists, tJothern und
Marlowe, and I was perfectly astounded
when I arrived to see their faces lining the
entrance halls of the anteroom If I
should do that In my bnloved Italy, they
would
"Slgnorlna, would you like to know what
they would do with me? They would kill
m dead right there in front of the pictures
where I stood, and they would be Justified,
I tbinlu-
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