TIIE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: MARCH 24, 1907.
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KIMONO LINES MUCH USED
Japanese Ideas At Taken Up by farii
Fashion Maker.
CHANGES IN THI MODISH FIGURE
Higher Bast Urn end More rr
rniinrri Walat Corves Hadlcal
Innovation In the Sleeve
11 la leaaan.
NEW YORK, Much 24. Owning U,
right of us. openings to lr ft of us; and at
every opening the host of delectable thing
for woman's wear! The deluge of Parisian
models will come a little later, but ulready
am of such models Is pouring Into
ik and confident prophecy concern
ing and summer nu di i Is dally be-
coming more possible.
Just how far present tendencies will go,
Just how cordial an Indorsement th fas
tidious will give to modes already popular
ized remain to be seen. But there are
enough straws to show beyond doubt the
direction of the current.
We may exclude the Japanese from our
schools, but no legislation could keep the
kimono out of our calculation this spring;
for the Parisian autocmu bave developed
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LITTT.E JAfTCETS AND A CAPE OF HEAVY LACE I LAND
LUNKN AND MOUSSEJJNE.
... aniluiaatln fnnilniiH t r that nrlntal
garment and Its lines are drawn upon for
coats, blouses and frocks.
The kimono sleeve is one of the most
lotlceablo features of the now frocks aud
to being used to a degree that threatens
to make It altogether too' common before
the new season Is far advanced. However,
many of the beat nvdels from the greatest
French houses show this feature, and that
being the case, it It. snfe to predict that tlte
Idea will survive the spring.
The genuine kimono sleeve Is, of course,
cut In one with tlio body of the blouse or
oout and no shoulder seam appears, but
there are many modifications of this idea.
The sleeve Is perliaps the detail which
shows the nvoet radical innovation this sea
son. The huge, quaint armholes, the drooping
shoulder line, the fulness dropping ever
nearer to I ho elbow, are all definite
changes. Tliere la undoubtedly a feeling
for the long mitten cult fitting closely from
the elbow almost to the knuckles.
This sleeve has not become common, but
nine of the best module from the great
Flinch makers show such sleeve lines, and
rumors frcm the Riviera tell of the mitten
sleeve as a feature ln the toilets of soma
of the most famous Parisian niondalnes.
Above the mitten cuff, which Is usually
transparent, the upper sleeve Is moderately
full, the fulness sagging slightly at the
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majority of cases frocks for day
which such a sleeve is included
' ae u supplementary outer sleeve, sleeve
cap or shoulder drapery.
' A great many of the dainty sheer blouses
,ent over by the French makers show a
long sleeve Instead of the Inevitable short
Sleeve used last summer. The short sleeve
la still with us. but It Is more often of
three-quarter length than of elbow length,
and while the very dressy blouses are
usually somewhat short of sleeve, the long,
close cuff of fine tucking is exceedingly
popular.
Some New Tork blouse makers, recogniz
ing this fact, are turning out models of the
French type whose chief charm Is ln the
fineness of their material, the excellence of
their cut and the profusion of very fine
tucking lavished upon them. Thia tucking
Is maild to take the place of Inset lace und
embroidery upon nuny fine blouses, and
such models have perhaps a greater charm
for morning wear than have those which
are more elaborate and more cobwebby of
composition.
The plaited front frills of lingerie and
lace which have received th name of Marl
Antoinette are very frequently Introduced
upon these tucked Mous s, and In this case
a finish of the same lace used upon the
frills Is applied to collar and cuffs, or per
haps the neck is finished only with a hand
and la meant to be worn with one of the
popular embroidered collars. Blouses of
this type are not confined to the separate
- A'ruse class, but are being much used for
:ttla tub frocks. In connection with a skirt
"of some simple design.
Going back to the matter of the long
shoulder line, which Is claiming so much
attention from designers and makers, the
shoulder druperles of fichu or pelerine type
are cleverly handled and extremely grace
ful. These are at their best ln very thin
stuffs, but the thin stuffs are so universally
uA d that save In the street suit and In s nie
linen costumes, picturesque shoulder drap.
' slmort alwuvs a possibility,
fr The trimmed armholes with shoulder line
falling well over the sleeve top Is panic
u'.arly liked for models of the gulmpe class,
and this class Is a very large oie. It was
raid last season that the gulmpe fr Jumper
frock had had Its day, but the mode Is re
vived this spring with renewed enthusiasm,
and a great number of charming models
In linen, silk and various wash maw rials
are designed up'n the gulmpe Hue.
TUla Idea Is often combined with modifl-
rations of the loose kimono sleeve, nrid the
results are eiccellent. A Broadway house
no4ed for Its tub frocks Is showing several
delightful rutmpe models In linen.
They are made with looee blouse KM In
wldo plaits on the shoulder and opening
In a deet V In the middle of front. A short
wide oversleeve, set In an armhole which
beneath the arm Is cut down quite to the
wnUt line Is also of the linen.
The trimming consists of bunds cf heavy
cluny lace dyed to match the linen arid
bordering the edges of neck ami sleeve.
The skirt Is a simple box platted model
Joined to the waist by a band of the oturtjk
This frock Is to be worn with a sheer
blouse of batiste or handkerchief linen,
and Its lines are so good that the model
has great cachet In spite of Its simplicity.
Tli average laundress- hlch unfortu
nately means the Incompetent laundress
Is likely to have trouble with the one piece
models so numerous among the tub frocks
of this season. To be sure, these frocks are
not cut In one piece. Blouse and skirt are
made separately and set together by Inset
bands of lace or embroidery, but when the
material of the frock Is fairly heavy, as In
the) case of linen. It Is difficult to Iron, the
garment In satisfactory fashion.
The skirt dries while the blouse Is being
Ironed, or vice versa. This must be taken
Into consideration by the woman for whom
the laundry problem Is a troublesome one
In summer.
Another point about these one pipes tub
frocks was made dear to us the other day
by a dressmaker who has a reputation for
the successful making of such models,
"Of course," she said, "many of my cus
tomers do not consider such matters as the
laundering or cleansing of their frocks,
So long as tho models are modish they are
satisfied.
"But many women have to be careful
about these things, and I am always will
Ing to advise them to the best of my
ability. A large majority of the prettiest
wash frocks this year are joined Into one
piece by Insertion waistbands. This Is
quite satisfactory when the material Is
very sheer and the aklrt not too heavy,
"Such frocks, if trimmed flatly, are easily
washed and Ironed or cleaned, and the
skirt will not pull the lace waistband to
pieces: but. In the case of a linen frock
or any frock with considerable skirt trim
mlng, I have found It advisable to stay
the transparent waistband In some fashion
It Is possible to lay a piece of fine but
firm muslin beneath the lace and set tiny
bones under the muslin, and this will save
a great deal of trouble It the frock Is to
go Into the rub regularly."
With the drooping shoulders which make
a change ln the silhouette comes a change
in the general bodice line. Although the
bodices and blouses appear to be softly
and carelessly draped, the figure of the
fashionable woman Is now so corseted that
It Is held more firmly than It has been
during recent seasons.
W heard last year that the Parisian was
In favor of a higher bust line and more
pronounced waist curves, and many cor
set models showed a tendency toward
such lines, yet the change of figure was
not very noticeable among fashionable
Americans. This spring, however, the
movement Is gaining more force and al
ready one sees many signs of the change.
The Imported models are all designed
with the French figure In view, and New
Tork corset makers and dressmakers are
subscribing to the tendency. Hips are, It
seems, entirely out of favor with the ultra
modish. The American woman, however,
will not go to such lengths ln the effort
to attain the fashionable figure as will
the Parisian, and hips are distinctly In
evidence In the average American figure.
As a result many of the French frocks
and coats will be decldcly unbecoming to
a majority of American women, and It
It Is to be hoped that the fashionable
American will take her figure Into con-
sideratlon before slavishly adopting the
latest mods(. The bust line of the new
figure Is. as we have said, rather high;
the waist line Is at the natural point and
gives a very round and slight waist. The
hip are practically eliminated, and the
skirt clings In Its upper breadths, to flare
widely toward the foot Pointed guimpes
l are rather the rule, fitting ln with the
natural lines of the fichu and pelerine !
draperies.
One sill) sees the shortened empire waist
tine and particularly the line reaching the
natural waist in front, but running up
almost to the shoulder blade In the back.
Whether the vogue of these lines is to con
tlnue or not la one of the debated ques
tions. Paris has already had two seasons of
the shortened walft, and It Is seldom that
a mode so radical outlives Its second sea
son In Paris, but certain of tho great
dressmakers seem loath to give up the
short waist line, and we wtll doubtless
see occasional models of this type through
out the summer.
The empire suggestion stifl survives In
many of the short fancy costs, but. for
thnt matter, every period Is represented
In the coats of the new season. Oriental
Ideas prevail among the coats and the
French makers lean very strongly toward
the msndarln and kimono lines and their
modifications.
The ample enveloping cloaks of the re-
Woman Explorer in Wilds of
HE woman whose picture Is given
here Is likely to be known here
after as one of the most earnest,
faithful and energetic geograph
ical exploiers of her time. She
Is wearing the garb of a man, but this does
not detract from her womaniy dignity. No
other attire Is fit for the pioneer routes she
blazes through the wilds of the Amazon
basin.
No man today has greater experience na
a South American explorer than Mrs. Henri
Coudreau. Probably no other living ex
plorer has spent so many years as she has
given to virgin fields of research In that
continent.
Though she has lived most of the years
since 1S93 In the wildernesses of South
America, she Is still In the early prime of a
7''-! A
.... 4;,. -;;.
MME. COUDREAU.
woman's life. She has Just left France to
begin her fourteenth series of explorations
ln America.
She ought to be a good explorer, for she
has the requisite qualities, and, besides.
she had the tuition of the renowned Henri
Coudreau, who took her as his bride when
she was a mere girl to French Oulana, and
for several years she shared his labors ln
revealing the Innermost recesses of that
country and of parts of the Amazon basin.
Her husband taught her how to survey
routes, to plot maps, to take latitudes and
longitudes and to record natural phenomena
and material resources. He gave her more
than a smattering of the geological equip
ment an explorer needs. She learned his
methods of handling native assistants, of
studying the wild man and of living in the
untrodden forest.
He died ln the Meld In 1899 and his wife
burled him ln the Amazon wilderness,
where he had labored so long. After the
most poignant period of her bereavement
had passed Mrs. Coudreau, equipped ln
all respects to follow the career of an ex
plorer, decided to carry on her husband's
work and devote her life to pioneer dis
covery In South America.
The Amazon states of Brazil have as
yet only an Inkling of the sources of wealth
that are scattered through their vast do
mains. We know the Amazon and some
gency, which were much worn In Paris
last summer, are again In order, and sec
ond empire cloaks and wraps of shawl
like draping are considered extremely chic.
One sees Louis XV. and dlrectolre models,
and there Is a host of fantastic little wraps
and short coats which defy classification.
The coats of lace, linen and lingerie are
particularly attractive and every Importer
Is showing many such models, both short
and of half or three-quarter length. The
short coats are In the majority, though
superb lace ccats of three-quarter length
and some very handsome embroidered linen
coats of the same length are well liked.
Our artist has sketched several of the
shorter models, fanciful little garments of
exquisite detail and piquant lines.
Upon these models fine and heavy em
broidery, fine and coarse laces and intri
cate soutache braiding all play their parts.
One little shoulder wrap has a stote-llke
piece of creamy linen boldly embroidered
ln open work and high relief design.
This lies flat around the neck and runs
down almost to the waist line at each
side of the front. Three deep frills of
the linen over which fall three frills of
lace run around the shoulders and back,
forming a cape like design.
Another model In the form of a loose
short coat Is of linen embroidered all
over ln little open work motifs, connected
by lines of tiny open work dots which
have the effect of marking off the ma
terial Into large checks. Around the neck
and down the front runs a wide band of
heavy openwork embroidery and tho same
embroidery appears as a sleeve finish.
Such little coata will be worn over sheer
summer frocks and not only over the lin
gerie materials, but over chiffons, sheer
voiles and similar stuffs. Word comes
from Paris that linen coats are being
made up to accompany even skirts of
worsted suitings, but in this case the linen
coat more nearly approaches tailored se
verity. The skirt will be of a checked suiting In
two shades of one Color or In two softly
harmonizing tones and the linen coat will
exactly match In color one of the shades In
the skirt. Whether we shall see such com
binations here cannot yet be told, but the
idea has Its advantages since it combines
a very cool coat with a skirt which will not
muss and soli as would one of linen. I.lttlu
coats of dyed lace or dyed openwork linen
are made for wear over sheer skirts in the
same color of sheer white frocks.
Dyed laces are enjoying a renewed vogue
and some of the handsomest French models
show trimmings of lace dyed to match the
material and often further emlvelllshed
by embroidery ln silk or pnlllettes echo
ing the color of the lace and re-enforcing
Its design. Some of these colored lace and
paillette trimmings are exquisitely lovely,
particularly In the evening shades.
Dyed lace was used to good advantage
In one of the Imported frocks represente.l
among the cuts. The model was ln lead
I gray mescaline; the bodice had the usual
: long shoulder line and shoulder drapery
i falling over sleeves of cream net: lace net
and lace formed the g jlmpe and lines of
' velvet matching the silk bordered the
shoulder drapery and the gulmpe.
The skirt had at the bottom a narrow
' finish of velvet, above which was a very
deep band of lace. This lace was dyed to
match the silk, and long silk lines of it
ran up Into the body of the skirt. Flna
soutache braiding formed motives where
each of these bands Joined the wide, band
at lace running around the skirt.
A second dark gray silk had a NMIre on
the usual lines, though the details of the
ahoulder drapery were original. The skirt
obtained enormous width at the ho torn
ln a somewhat unusual way. an extremely
full flounce being set Into huge bittle
mentrd spaces cut In the upper skirt.
The grays acem to be holding their own
on Fashion's color list, although for a
time they have been somewhat overlooked
In the Inrush of the browns. Frown is
unquestionably the most conspicuous favor
ite among the spring colors, but as we
have suggested before. It Is In danger of
being done to death.
Many of the brown tones are very lovely;
the light clear serlas, the tortoise shell
shades and the chestnut shaies vleing
with the softer wood browns ln public
I . -J,.' li.-.
of Its large tributaries, but there are scores
of smaller streams, large rivers In them
selves, that have never seen a white man.
Along these streaT.s are Trxllun tribes
no one ever heard of; rubber trees, wild
vanilla and many other vegetable proddots;
minerals, and far from the low lying Ama
zon vast open spaces adapted for tropical
grazing and agriculture.
The Amazon states are very desirous of
learning about the untouched resources
In these virgin regions. They have faith
ln the efficiency of Mrs. Coudreau and pay
the entire expenses of her expeditions.
Thus far she has explored for the state
of Para five rivers, each of them hundreds
of miles In length. These rivers are the
Cumlna, Trompetas, Curua, Mapuera and
Mnyeuru. For the past two years sha
has been In the service of the stass of
Amazonas, has made a thorough study
of the Cnnuma, a southern tributary of
the Amazon, and Is now on her way to
fulfill other commissions which that state
has ready for her.
At least three of her reports those on
the Curua, Mnyeuru and Mapuera have
been printed, and perhaps her other books
are now off tho press. The story of her
exploration of each river Is handsomely
produced In small folio form In France,
lllustmted with her large maps snd many
bountiful photographs.
They are among the handsomest volumes
of exploration that have been produced In
recent years. While Intended for popular
rending they are scientific as well, giving
both picturesque narrative and also the
solid facts which the explorer was sent
out to collect.
Mrs. Ccmd-enu's printed maps of each
Journey, some of them In five or six large
sheets, are all reproductions of her manu
script maps lust as they left her hand,
with lettering big and plain, and on a seal
of about a mile and a half to an Irch.
The scale Is so larne that she was able to
Insert every bend In the rivers, every
Island, the forms of the land, the brooks
and tributary rivers, each village and
Isolated house, and latitudes and longi
tudes about every ten miles. They are
models of pioneer route mopr-lnsr and are
used by nil the best atlas houses to Improve
their maprlng of the Amazon basin.
The explorer Is always accompanied by
from ten to twenty men. some of whom
have been In her service for years and are
faithful ln every duty. Her men are ne
groes or mixed bloods, not nil of them of
the most desirable quality, but the little
Frenchwoman Is always master of tho
situation. There may be grumbling, but
what she wishes done must be done.
"Madame," snid her boatmnn to her one
day. "this Is no longer a river. There are
more rocks than water. We may work
eight days and we shall still be here."
"I am going on, however," she replied.
"Unload the boats and carry everything."
She sent two men ahead to see how far
the river obstruction continued. In two
days the party were afloat above It.
Mrs. Coudreau has failed only once to
reach the headwaters of any river she has
explored. Tills little reverse came on tho
Maycuru river, probably 600 or 700 miles
long, one of tho big northern tributaries
of the Amazon.
The explorer had reason to believe that
favor. The chances are that later ln the
season these tones will be more modish
In millinery than In entire costumes, and
certainly many of the loveliest effects
among the new hats are obtained by ar
tlstlo use of the browns ln combination
with other tones.
The blues, too, are exceedingly popular,
snd are offered In a very wide rang of
shades. The familiar hydrangea tones are
as well liked as ever. Qentlan, Nattier,
Copenhagen (which Is a new version of
the China blue), turquoise, a deep tone
called night blue, Indigo and navy are all
modlBh.
There Is. too, a new dull blue, called ln
Paris bleu mort, which figures prominently
in the new millinery, and there Is a line of
egg shell blue and green which melt Into
each other so that one hardly knows
whether to call the shades blue or green.
There Is a very kindly feeling toward the
greens moss green; mignonette green;
almond, green: and many other aoft medium
hued tones. Theso greens combine well
with some of the browns, the grays and
the blues.
Running up the scale from the browns,
one finds a wealth of beautiful yellows,
ochre, sulphur, gold, apricot, sauterne,
straw color, etc. Yellow will be consider
ably worn, the buff and straw color shad
ings being much fancied both for linens
and for voiles and other sheer stuffs.
A new biscuit or sand color, known as
terre d'Egypte, Is a recent favorite with
the French, and there' is a long line of
popular pink, rose and fruit shades. Few
of the fashionable colors are really flam
boyant, somewhat dull and subdued tones
having the preference, though the coloring
may be exceedingly light and delicate.
Soutache braiding appears upon materials
of all kinds from tnoussellne and marquis
ette to silk and cloth. It Is usually, how
ever, combined with other embroidery and
Is more auccessful upon the Imported model
than upon domestic models, for it requires
very artistic stamping and skilled work
manship If It Is to be really original and
successful.
In commonplace design and careless
handling It loses all of Its distinction. The
frock of pale blue marquisette pictured
among the sketches was a particularly
happy Illustration of the possibilities In
soutache work, but it would be difficult
to obtain such results on this aide of the
mater.
Tassels and fringes of various sorts are
making a strong bid for favor, but the
single pendants are more generally liked
than are the fringes.
Ships That Minister to Fishers
(Continued from Page Three.)
doctor wrote home: "With all theso
wounded men on board, our floating hospi
tal looks a veritable battlefield."
And even today It may look equally a
"battlefield'' after the sea has declared war
upiu the fleets. For Instance, ln the great
gale in March, 1SS3, forty-five smacks were
totally lost, eight y-nJne were more or less
damaged and hundreds of men and- boys
ptriehed or weie sorely hurt. In tho York
shire city of Hull alone nearly 2u0 wives
w.ra made widows on that day.
And even a storm of le.s violence may
fill the little hospital. In these floating
Uwns accidents will happen that no fore
sight ca.n avert. It may be tle sudden
tautening of a steel trawl warp, which on
one occabioii decapitated one man In a sec
ond fat. J cut another ln two. Or it may be
a orunlud limb, a smashed hand, a case
of blood poisoning or any one of a scoie of
mishaps to whli h the hardships f these
men make them especially liable.
Trawling is usually carried on in a depth
varying from ten to twenty fathoms. The
ik. t is an oblong of about 1'0 fort by 20 feet
and lmu. dUiely on arrival at the fishing
ground this is lowered and the trawler set
In motion at half ped say, five knots an
hour.
After s x hours or so the net la wound up
and di tachied. As It coin, to the surface
you may see a vast, si, very, moving mass.
And a few inji.utes later a nooee at the
bottom is opened and all the tish there
may le four tons shot out on the deck, a
struggling, wrigi;lli( nuusa.
the Amazon f
when her guide was drunk (and he was
likely to become besotted on sugarcane
brandy when be could get It from the In
dians! he had not the slightest Idea of what
he did or said. So she was skeptical one
day when he came to her with tears
streaming down his cheeks.
"Madame," he said, "you will not believe
me, but w are all going to die. Tour food
Is nearly gone. From here to thnt lake
away off which I have seen there are no
fish In the rivers, no game In the forests,
and when we reach the lake things wtll
be worse. Oh. I wish I had not come on
this Journey, for I shall never see my wife
and children again."
"I saw," wrote Mrs. Coudreau In her day
book, "that It was the sugar brandy that
made him talk as he did."
A month later, on that Journey, she
knew that her guide had told the truth.
She was almost out of supplies, the country
was a desert, and her men were suffering
from their privations.
The obstacles were Insurmountable, and
she had to turn back. She was forty miles
north of the equator, and perhaps the river
extended 100 miles further north. But Its
delineation in the German atlases stops
Just where the brave little woman faced
about toward the Amazon and fled from
the evils she could not overcome.
For many months at a time she sleeps
In one of her canoes, a part of which is
enclosed with thatch. She is seldom In this
little cabin except In the hours of darkness.
Walls cannot be allowed to obstruct her
vision, for she is ln the new land to see
every aspect of it. She Is too busy to en
gage In cooking or any other work of that
sort.
The men under her orders must do every
thing excepting the tasks of actual obser
vation and research, for which they are not
competent. Her life ln the wilds has be
come second nature to her and she longs
for the Amazon when she goes back to
Paris to supervise the publication of her
books.
"I love Amazonia," she writes. "The
solitude of the virgin forest has become a
necessity of my life. Its mysterious silence
attracts mo more than anything else In the
world, and only when I am ln the great
woods do I feel that 1 am at home."
She has learned the art of photagraphy
ln the tropics, where it Is more difficult than
In temperate climates. Her photographs
are a very valuable feature of her work,
Many of them are of Indians now revealod
to the world for the first timo.
She also Illustrates the life of the negro
ln Amazon regions, shows the tumbledown
settlements on the tributaries, the banks
of rivers, wooded to the waters edge, the
preparation of manioc, the great food re
source, and picturesque falls and bits of
scenery. In fact, her pictures show all
the charm of the unknown she Is spending
her life to reveal.
Mme. Coudreau has no admiration for
the freed negro she has found ln tho Ama
ion wilds. "They do no work they can
avoid. They plant a little manioc, hunt
and fish a little, and will work a day or
two for silver when they must have money
to buy liquor.
There are hake and ling, cod and conger,
turbrt and soles, plaice and halibut, ray
and bream, with perhaps a dozen other
edible klnda ln smaller quantities. And
there are always a great number of young
sharks.
The men clad In oilskins and armed with
knives dive ln among: the mass and com
mence cutting; and sorting the various
kinds Into section a It Is In this knifing
work that many cut are Inflicted which
through neglect and the ceaseless applica
tion of salt water may develop Into serious
wounds.
After sorting, the fish Is packed In trunks
and soon the steam carrier Is seen forging
up, rolling and plunging In choppy seas
which dash continuously over Its starboard
gunwale and pour down on the deck amid'
ships In a continuous cascade. Every
man Is on deck to take fish aboard, with
additional hands engaged by the skipper
from one of the trawlers. Some of the
boxes weigh nearly a hundredweight, so
the skipper and his men need cool heads to
receive them and stow them ln the bold
with a big sea running and perhaps fifty
or sixty boats waiting to unload.
Meanwhile the fleet's admiral has gone
on board the carrier to have a talk with
the skipper about courses and reckonings,
prices and catches. Down below under the
mate's orders men are receiving and stack
lng the fish trunks which slip down th
hatchway In a continuous stream. The
work must be done at high pressure.
It Is easy to estimate the value of well
equipped floating hospitals to these fel
lows. In the old days the best they oould
hope for was rough and ready treatment at
the hands of their own skipper. Now
the Injured are received In beds and have
all the advantages of electric light, skilled
surgical advice, proper nursing, the beat
of food and medicines and hot and oold
baths.
Altogether there are nine physicians and
surgeons at sea among the men, some of
them acting as skippers of big floating
hospitals like the Alpha, Queen Alexandra
and the Joseph and Sarah Miles. Each
one of these craft Is of about S00 tons and
was especially designed and built for the
work. And that work Is extending to
other seas.
Every one knows about the floating hos
pital Strathcona which goes up and down
the Labrador coast among the Esquimau
and Newfoundland codflshers who migrate
thither at certain seasons. The Strath
cona was a gift of the Canadian statesman
of the same name, and its surgeon-skipper
Is Dr. Wilfred Orenfell.
There are also floating hospitals attend
ing the mackerel fishers of both England
and Ireland; and one Is surprised to find
that the patients treated In a yer reckon
ing both surulcal and medical cases made
a total of 12.0!. Among the minor work
done by these craft Is the distribution of
over sixty tons of literature.
Carpenter's Letter
(Continued from Page Three.)
figs, with a hole ln the bottom to allow
the Juice to run out; another was a larger
vessel of the same material for wheat or
corn. The latter would hold perhaps
twenty bushels. There was also a large
clay Jar for the olive oil, which Is made on
the little home farm and pressed out by
the family.
I asked where the cooking was done,
and In reply the woman pointed to a hole
In the floor In one corner of the hut. The
floor Is the bare rock, so that there is no
danger of fire.
As I looked shout me I heard a sheep
bleating. It was apparently right under my
feet, and turning around I saw a long
eared ram and a nanny goat looking at me
from under a shelf at the back of the hut.
The shelf was the chief sleeping place of
the family snd the space below it served as
a stable. There were some chickens In the
same place, ar.d at nl?ht the donkeys and
ether anlm Is belonging to the family are
brought ln and all sleep together. These
Kabyle sheep are tame, and they follow
their masters from place to place like dogs
The people have many sheep, which they
pasture on the mountains ln one common
fiock watched by a shepherd. The sheep
and goats are brought Into town every
own Kmp uc -piaitf
Ml VST
l I 'ill t-r
... ( , ,w ,
ofit-tfiihd o Cife i4 dftent in Scd
niez Scdhoom fyjmtuhc U U CovcCy
and bo htetfad.
I daw &ome fate ontb on celuC
&az today at mi&& btMaht &
eatm& Ut'&tfzt one o daddy.
tfiey ac not Ufa kind put tofetfiek
vtitfa a rttdtfe o (cey& that Soon
eota&S Coote and Ufa Sed eont&s
ajyat. thib new kind i4 wedded
togethfr and wlCC btand a weight
oj froundb and nwe eon
yd oo6t Ufa Sed u&uatCy bod pi
8.5) they aU of$ii4itf thU Mtk
to Introduce them jo 7.00
oththtr at 3.5.0 0
aSeauty9 fob;. 0.00
&ome djyeeiaMy ehoiee oneb fyh 5-
A few nice Oriental Hugs helps some, and I saw the
new stock just opened up which Miller, Stewart & Beaton
are offering this week at one quarter less than regular pri
ces, better get one or two while the prices are so cheap.
They will fit in nicely in any room, seem never to wear out
and look better the older they grow.
$70.00 Shlrvan Rug, 4-0X5-5, eale price $52.50
$32.00 Beloochlstan, 3-2X5-, gale price 824.00
$30.00 Shlrvan Rug, 3-7X5, sale price $22.50
$35.00 Shlrvan Rug, 3-8X5-6, sale price $20.25
$20.00 Mosul, 3-3X5, sale price $15.00
$37.00 Dagheatan Rug, 4-1X5-7. Bale price $27.75
$24.00 Beloochlstan Rug, 2-7X4-9, sale price '$18.00
$30.00 Cashmere Rug, 3-10X6-5, gale price $22.50
$20.00 Daghestan Rug. 3-3X4-6, eale price .$15.00
$29.00 Beloochlstan Rug, 3-5X4-5, sale price $21.75
$28.00 Beloochlstan Rug, 3-2X4-9, eale price... t $21.00
$36.00 Beloochlstan Rug, 3-8X5-4, sale price $27.00
$21.00 Beloochlstan Rug, 2-8X4, sale price , $15.75
$35.00 Cashmere Rug, 4-5X8-7, gale price ........ .$243.25
$40.00 Dagestan Rug, 3-7X7-6, sale price $30.00
$ 7.00 Anatolian Rug, 1-10X3. Bale price -$5.25
$12.00 Anatolian Rug, 1-9X3-4, sale price .$9.00
$ 2.50 Anatolian Rug, 1-3X1-11, eale price....... ol.SS
$ 7.00 Anatolian Rug, 1-8X1-11, eale price $5.25
Miller, Stewart & Beaton
4)3-15-17 South 16th Street
WiffHil' 1"'"
night As soon as they enter the village
each runs for Its own home and remains
there until morning.
1
Pretty Berber Girls.
Borne of these Kabyle women are fliiii
looking. The wife of my host was about
30, and she would have been considered
pretty In any crowd of American maidens.
Her cheeks were rosy and her features as
regular as those of the Venus de Medici.
She wore a dress of bright red calico, which
came almost to her feet, but still showed
the heavy silver rings about her bare
ankles, tihe had heavy earrings and brace
lets. Around her neck was a chain to
which many ornaments were hung, and her
breast was covered with great pins of whit
metal set .with bright-colored stones. I
venture that she had at least two pounds
of Jewelry upon her. Her eyelids were
blackened to add to her beauty, and she
was also tattooed on the cheeks and on th
forehead and chin.
Nearly all the Kabyle women I have seen
are tattooed, and even the poorest wear
more or less Jewelry. Outside this, many
are ragged, and those who go through th
streets have their skirts so pulled up that
they show a large expanse of bare calf. I
see them doing all sorts of hard labor.
They carry water from the village well In
clay Jais: they gather the wood needed for
cooking, and not a few labor out ln ths
fields. Indeed, their situation makes on
think of the vaudeville song:
Oh t'-e women do the work, do the work
While the men lie around the house.
(it that other sweet and well known
ditty
'Everybody works but father."
Thrifty, but l.nsr.
The Kabj le men are a strange comblna
tlon of thrlftlness and laziness. I saw
many of them loafing about the streets
while the women passed by loaded with all
sorta of burdens. While at home they let
their wives do as much as they will, but at
the same time they will hire out to the
French fanners of the Tell to aid ln plant
ing and harvesting the crup. At such times
HIT
they make from 40 to 80 cents a day and
save almost the whole of It. They are
accumulative, and many of them amass
small fortunes of a few hundred dollars or
so.
Indeed, thus people have many qualities
hlch distinguish them from the Arabs and
Moors, by whom they are surrounded. Their
white blood crops out ln their desire for in
dependence and self-government. They are
ruled by the French, but as to local mat
ters they govern themselves. Each town
Is a little republic, with its own council
and a public meeting house where town af
fairs are discussed. It has Its own munici
pal laws and electa Its own officials. Each,
village has a mosque and school. The
school Is supplied with teachers by the
French, and the children are taught to
speak and write French as well as Arabic
The mosques are rude affairs, but the
Kabylua go to them regularly and face
Mecca as they pray. They are naturally
religions, but they have changed the Mo
hammedan faith to suit themselves, and
they have their own Ideas of morals, right
and Justice. Many of them are Intelligent,
and ultogether they have most of the qual
ities which have made the white race the
ruling one in other ports of the world.
FRANK Q. CARI'ENTKR.
A 6 Win of Denuty wo t trover.
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