Omaha Sunday
HALF TOIIE SECTIOH
Pzgss 1 to 12
A Papr for tha Horn
THE OMAHA DEE
Best i". West
VOL. XXXVI-NO. 20.
OMAHA, SUNDAY MORNIXG, NOVEMBER 4, 11HH5.
SINGLE COPY FIVE CENTS.
AROUND THE WORLD WITH WILLIAM JENNINGS BRYAN
Some Good Natured Advice to Prospective Globe Trotters as to the Itinerary that Will Best Bring Them Into Direct and Close Contact with the Points of Interest in the Orient and the Old World
The
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LINCOLN, Neb., Oct 6. (Special Correspondence of The
Bee.) W have found the trip around the globe far more
Instructive than we had expected, and It was entered upon
for educational reasons. There is eo much to see and learn
that one can occupy an indefinite time In travel. We set apart
a year for the trip and reached home sixteen days within the limit
Those who have followed these letters will admit, I think, that we
have covered a great deal of ground and seen a great deal of the
world. If we were repeating the trip, I hardly know of any country
that we could afford to leave out, and I am Battened that It is better '
to start from the Pacific coast than from the Atlantic. One could
make the trip In half the time that we spent and see a great deal,
but he can see mere if he has a year or two to spare for the Journey.
If ofie desires to make the trip in six months, he should Bet
apart about two months for ocean travel. He could then devote two
weeks to Japan, ten days to China, a wec".t to Manila, three weeks
to India, a week to Egypt, two weeks to the Holy Land, a week to
Greece and Constantinople, and the rest of the time to Europe. To
go through Corea would require ten days or two weeks more, .-but
the hermit kingdom Is different from any other country, and Its
queer people are worth seeing. Very few of the tourists have vis
ited Peking, and yet it is in some respects the most interesting of the '
Chinese cities. The Manchu element of the Chinese population the ,
ruling element an only be seen at Peking or in the northern dis
tricts. The great wall is nea Peking, and the wall around the city
of Peking is even more imposing that the great wall itself. The
Altar of Heaven, the most beautiful and elaborate sacrificial altar
on earth, is in the suburbs of the Chinese capital and in Itself well
repays a visit.
Until recently Peking could only be entered from the sea via
Tientsin. The. railroad, however, from Peking to Hankow was about
completed when we were there, and this greatly facilitates travel
mruugn inn interior, ir one goes tnrougn uorea, u is Deet 10 go on
1 to Peking by water and then go down on the railroad to Hankow and
down the Yangste river to Shanghai.
All Should See the Philippines
Every American who visits the orient should spend some daya
in the Philippine islands. He owes it to his country to do bo. If
he will visit the schools he will be convinced that there is increasing
, intelligence in the islands, and he will hot doubt that the people
want independence. An inspection of the factories will prove that
the Filipinos are industrious as well as intelligent-
It takes about two werks to go from Singapore to Java and re
turn, but we remember that visit as one 'of the most delightful of
the trip. The ruined temple at Boro Boedoer, the delicious fruits,
the terraced hills, the far-reaching rice fields and the shady drives
linger in ono's memory.
To visit Ceylon, Burma and India requires a good deal of travel
upon the bay of Bengal. We went to Ceylon, then back to Burma,
then on to Calcutta. Some go to Burma and then to India and re
turn to Ceylon from Bombay, but all three of these countries ar
interesting and one can hardly afford to pass by any of them. Burma
is the home of Buddhism, and one can learn more of the worship of
.Buddha here than anywhere else. The yellow-robed priest with his
begging bowl is everywhere present.
I have already discussed India and Egypt somewhat in detail,
fend no traveler need be urged to visit these countries. Palestine, .
however, is skipped by go many travelers that I may be pardoned a
word of advice. Of all the countries which we visited none inter
ested us more than the Holy Land, and no member of a Christian
church can afford to visit southern Europe or pass through the
Suez canal without seeing that portion of Asia which is immortalized '
by Bible history. The ruins at Baalbec, in some respects the most
remarkable in the world, attract many to Beyrut, Damascus and tha
Lebanons, but the Sea of Galilee, Jerusalem and the Jordan have
lessons for the tourist of far greater Importance than can be de
rived from the ruins of heathen temples.
If the reader lacks either time, inclination or means for a trip
round the world, he will find one of the shorter trips to Europe
only second In Interest and value. The Mediterranean trip is a very .
popular one. This, according to Its length, permits a visit to Gibral
tar, Alexandria, Cairo, Palestine, Constantinople, Greece and Italy.
From Gibraltar it is a short trip to Granada, Cordova and Madrid,
and our experience leads me to commend this trip to the traveler.
At Cairo and Constantinople the orient comes nearest to Europe and
America, and the difference between the orient and the western world
is so striking that no one visiting southern Europa should miss the
Nile and the Bosphorus. One can spend weeks, and even months,
about the shores of the Mediterranean; Africa, Asia Minor and Eu
rope all touch upon this great inland Bea. Without leaving its
shores one can study the most opposite types which the huniaa race
has produced and at the same time study the history of the oldest
periods known to man. Egypt should be visited before the end of
March, while April is the best month for a trip to Palestine.
In Italy alone one could occupy a winter. Rome, the center of
the Catholic world and the home of the Caesars, is a most fascinating
city. There are no mosaics like those of St Peter's and few gal
leries equal to those of the Vatican, while masterpieces of sculptors
and painters are to be found on every hand. The old Roman forum
ts the mecca of the student, and the Coliseum Is still a wonder, de-
THE MIDNIGHT SUN IN NORWAY.
ill
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"NEATH THE SHADE OF THE SHELTERING PALMS" IN THE PHILIPPINES.
lying as it has the storms of nearly two thousand years. At Naples
one sees Vesuvius and lava beds formed but a few months ago. At
one place the stream af lava poured through an archway and hard
ened as it cooled. Whea we were there the lava was like stone and
could with difficulty be broken. At Florence one sees the best
specimens of modern sculpture, and at Milan he visits one of the
most famous of the European cathedrals.
Venice, Unique and Beautiful
-Venice Is in a class by itself. No other city-rivals It in unique
ness. Its streets are canals, and gondolas are the vehicles in which
potentate, priest and plebeian ride. It draws visitors from all over
the world and sends them away after a short visit, glad that they
came and equally glad to escape from the dampness of the place.
If one desires a summer trip he can find few Journeys more de
lightful than those through Switzerland and along the Rhine. Lakes,
rivers and mountains these are to be found in abundance, with
cities enough to supply the population and hotels to accommodate
the tourists. If one would combine pleasure with instruction, he can
profitably employ considerable time in visiting the German univer
sities at Heidelburg and LeipHic and the art galleries at Dresden and
Munich. The cathedral at Cologne, It may be added, Is by many
preferred to the cathedral at Milan.
The northern portions of Europe are even more inviting to the
summer tourist than Switzerland or the Rhine. The lakes of Ire
land and Scotland and the sea coast resorts of England and Holland
give rest and recuperation to multitudes every year.
If I were going to suggest a summer trip it would be as fol
lows: Leave New York early in June, land at Liverpool, cross over
to Newcastle and take a Steamer for Bergen, Norway. A week can
be spent delightfully In the fjords and on the lakes in the neighbor
hood of Bergen. Suck a combination of deep water and rugged
mountain sides, rushing streams and crystal lakes is hard to find.
Then let the tourist proceed to Trondhjem, the ancient capital, where
King Haakon was recently crowned. From Trondhjem the traveler
can reach the Arcttc circle in a little more than a day. While a
day's stay is sufficient in the land of the midnight sun if the sky is
clear, it is better to allow one's self two or three days' leeway, as
it is often cloudy In this latitude and at this time of the year. The
midnight sun must be Beeu to be appreciated. No description can
do It Justice. To pans from day to day with no intervening night,
to watch the sun linger for awhile in the north near the horizon and
then beRlti a new day's work without a moment's sleep gives one a
sensation not soon forgotten. A railroad across Norway brlnps
Christiana within a day's ride of Trondhjem, and from Christiana
to Stockholm Is another day.
Stockholm, St. Petersburg and Berlin
.Stockholm is sure to charm the visitor. It Is a beautiful town,
beautifully situated: it stands where the waters of the lakes and
the ocean meet. Several days can be spent in Stockholm to advan
tage, and then one is prepared for the boat ride to St. Petersburg,
one of the rarest experiences that one can find in travel. The boat
wends Its way through islands almost the entire distance.
A week's stay at, St. Petersburg will give an opportunity for nn
Inspection of the capital of the greatest of the nations measured by
territory, and one of the greatest measured by population. Here
one has a chance to learn something of the Creek church with its
splendid cathedrals, rivalling the cathedrals of the Roman Catholic
church. Moscow is even more, distinctly Russian than St. Peters
burg, and the art pallery there surpasses the one at St. Petersburg
in its collection of the works of Russian artists. Tolstoi's summer
home is not far from Moscow, and ninny take advantage of the trip
to see the greatest of living philosophers.
The ride from St. Petersburg to Moscow and from Moscow to
Warsaw gives a very good view of the interior of Russia, and one
can stop off at almost any place and learn something of the villuge
life of the Russian peasant.
Several days can be occupied In Berlin, and other points of In
terest can be easily reached from Germany's capital. Copenhagen,
the capital of Denmark, is only half a day's ride distant. Hanover,
Hamburg, Brussels, Amsterdam and The Hague are all within easy
reach. In Germany one has an opportunity to learn a great deal
about forestry, agriculture and landscape gardening. The parks,
groves, shady drives and boulevards furnish the American traveler
with many suggestions, while the battlefield of Waterloo and the
lowlands of Holland will ever be interesting to the student of his
tory. The tour can be completed by a visit to Paris and London. The
social season in the latter city ends early in August with the ad
journment of Parliament. In three months' time one can make this
northern trip and return with a fund of information about the coun
tries and their peoples which could never be collected from books.
It is no an expensive trip even for lirst-class travel, and the accom
modations furnished by the steamers and the railroads for second
class pnssengers are such that one cau reduce his expenses consid
erably without discomfort.
"East, West, Home's Best"
But let me add that one does not have to leave America to
find places of interest and that no one can justify a trip abroad until
he has become acquainted with his own country. Europe has no
summer resorts that surpass the cities on the St. Lawrence, on our
northern lakes, and in the mountains of the west. In America one
can have every variety from salt sea bathing to mountain climbing,
with fishing thrown in. In natural scenery there is nothing in Eu
rope which surpasses the Niagara, Yellowstone park and the Yo
semite valley of Califorpia. There are no agricultural views which
surpass those in the valleys on the Ohio, the Mississippi and the
Missouri, and for a restful winter trip Hawaii. Mexico and Cuba
offer attractions that are unexcelled. While the western hemis
phere is not so old In its civilization, the only advantage that the
orient and Europe can furnish is In their variety of races, customs
and religions.
In natural scenery America satisfies all expectations. Nothing
but the Himalayas offer more sublime heights, and the earth has no
other chasm equal to the Grand Canyon of Arizona. After one has
seen the wonders of America and the possibilities of its soil, its
institutions and its people, he can go abroad with the assurance
that he will return, more widely informed. It Is true, but more in
tensely American than before. There is no country like ours,
whether It be measured by the bountiful gifts of the Creator or by
the works of man. In all that goea to make a nation great ma
terially, commercially, intellectually, politically and morally, our
country has no peer. The American, returning to his own shores,
feels like thanking Scott far expressing so felicitously the traveler's
sentiments:
Breathes there the man with soul so dead
Who never to himself hath said,
This is my own, my native land!
Whose heart hath ne'er within him burn'd
As home his footsteps he hath turn'd
From wandering on a foreign strand?
If such there breathe, go, mark him well!
For him no minstrel raptures swell;
High though his titles, proud his name.
Boundless his wealth as wish can claim
Despite those titles, power and pelf,
The wretch, concentered all In self.
Living, shall forfeit fair renown,
And, doubly dying, shall go down
To the vile dust from whence he sprung,
, Unwept, unhonor'd and unsung.
W. J. BRYAN.
(Copyright. 1906.)
Rain-in-lhe-Face Tells of the Bloody Ballle of the Little Big Horn
Noted Sioux Warrior Who Took Part in the Massacre'of General Custer and His Men Tells His Story of the Battle to One of His Own Race
THE noted Sioux Warrior, Raln-in-the-Faca, whose name
once carried terror to every part of the frontier, died at
his home on the Standing Rock reserve in North Dakota
on September 14, 1905. About , two months before his
death I went to see. him for the last time, where he lay
upon tha bed of sickness from which he never rose again, and drew
from him his Ufa history.
It has been my experience that you cannot Induce an Indian to
tell a story, or even his own name, by asking him directly.
"Friend," I said, "even if a man is on a hot trail, he stops for
kr- a vmokat In tha ronrl nlrl riivi hfrr tha rhinte. thara was a amnka
A Vaa Va 1 . U I. 1 J mn niAB.. . nln J A ,Ka1-
brave deeds, again the pipe was passed. Bo come, let us smoke now
to the memory of the old days!"
He took of my tobaceo and filled hi long pipe, and we smoked.
Then I told an old mirthful story to get him in the humor of re
lating his own history.
The old man lay upon an iron bedstead, covered by a red
blanket, in a corner of the little log cabin. He was all alone that
day; only an old dog lay Btlent and watchful at his master's feet.
Finally he looked up and said with a pleasant smile:
' "True, friend; it is the old custom to retrace one's trail before
having it forever! I know that I am at the door of the spirit home.
"I was born near the forks of the Cheyenne river, about seventy
years ago. My father was not a chief; my grandfather wax not a
chief, but a good hunter and a feast maker. Ou my mother's side I
had some noted ancestors, but they left me no chieftainship. I. had
to work for my reputation.
"When I was a boy I loved to fight," he continued. "In all our
boyUh games I had the name of being hard to handle, and I took
much pride In tha fact.
"I was about 10 years old when we encountered a band of
VphAi'AmnAu Th,T YPl'A nn frlnrilv trma wllh 112 hut hnva In.
ylulged in Bham fights on-slicb occasions, and this time I got in an
honest fight with a Cheyenne boy older than I. I got the best of the
1 boy, but be hit we bard in tha face several times, and my face was
all spattered with blood and streaked where the paint had been
ashed away. The Sioux boys whooped and yelled:
" 'Uia tuemy U down, and his fuc in guttered us if with
rain! Raln-ln-the-Face! His name shall be Raln-ln-the-Face!'
"Afterwards, when I was a young man, we went on a war path
against the Gros Ventres. We stole some of their horses, but were
overtaken and had to abandon the horses and fight for our lives. I
had wished my face to represent the sun when half covered with
darkness, so I painted It half black, the other half red. We fought
all day in the. rain and my face was partly washed and streaked
with red and black; so again I was christened Raln-ln-the-Face. We
considered it an honorable name.
"I had been on many war paths, but was not especially suc
cessful until about the time the Sioux began to fight with the white
man. One of the most daring attacks that we ever made was t
Fort Totten, North Dakota, In the summer of 1866.
"Hohay, the Asslnlbolne captive of Sitting Bull, was the leader
in this raid. Wapaypay, the Fearless Bear, who was afterward
hanged at Yankton, was the bravest man among us. He dared
Hohay to make the charge. Hohay accepted the challenge, and in
turn dared the other to ride with him through the agency and right
under the walls of the fort, which was well garrisoned and strong.
"Wapaypay and I in those days called each other 'brother
friend.' It was a llfe-and-death vow. What one does the other
must do, and that meant that I must be in the forefront of the
charge, and if he is killed, I must fight until I die also!
"I prepared for death. I painted as usual like an eclipse of the
sun, half black and half red."
His eyes gleamed and his face lighted up remarkably as he
talked, pushing his black hair back from his forehead with a nervous
getlure.
"Now the signal for the charge was given! I started even with
Wapaypay, but his hoibe was faster thau mine, so he left me a little
behind as we neared the fort. This was bad for me, for by that
time the soldiers had somewhat recovered from the suprlse and were
aiming better.
"Their big gun talked very loud, but my Wapaypay was leading
oa, leaning forward on hl3 fleet pony like a flying tquirrel on a
smooth log! He held his rawhide sh.c'.d iha right side, a little
to the front, and so did I. Our warwhoop was like the coyotes
singing In the evening, when they .smell blood!
"The soMltis' tuus talked fast, but few were hurt. Their lig
gun was like a toothless old dog, who only makes himself hotter
the more noise he makes," he remarked with some humor.
"How much harm we did I do not know, but we made things
lively for a time, and the white men acted as people do when a
swarm of bees gets into camp. We made a successful retreat, but
some of the reservation Indians followed us yelling, until Hohay
told them that he did not wish to fight with the captives of the
white man, for there would be no honor in that. There was blood
running down ray leg and I found that both my horse and I were
slightly wounded.
"Some two years later we attacked a fort, of the Black Hills
(Fort Phil Kearney, Wyoming). It was there we killed 100 soldiers.
(The military reports say eighty men, under the command of Cap
tain Fetterman not one left alive to tell the tale!) Nearly every
band of the Sioux nation was represented in that fight Red Cloud,
Spotted Tail, Crazy Horse, Sitting Bull, Big Foot and all our great
chiefs were there. Of course, such men as I am were then com
paratively unknown. However, there were many noted young war
riors, among them Sword, the younger Young-Man-Afraid, American
Horse (afterward chief), Crow King and others.
"This was the plan decided upon after many councils. The
main war party lay in ambush and a few of the bravest young
men were appointed to attack the wood choppers who were cutting
logs to complete the building of the fort. We were told not to kill
these men, but to chase them into the fort and retreat slowly, de
fying the white men, and if the soldiers should follow, we were
to lead them into the ambush. Thev took our bait exactly as we
had hoped. It was a matter of a very few minutes, for every -soldier
lay dead in a shorter time than li takes tc annihilate a small herd
of buffalo.
"This attack was hastened because moat of the Sioux on the
Missouri liver and eastward had begun to talk of ruing for peace.
But even this did not stop the peace movement. The very next year
a treaty was blgned at Fort Rice, Dakota Territory, by nearly
all the Sioux chiefs. In which it was agreed on the part of the
great father in Washington that all the country north of the
Republican river in Nebraska, Including the Black Hills and the
Big Horn mountains, was to be always Sioux country, and no white
uiau fchoulj intrude upon it without our permission. Even with
this agreement Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse wera not satisfied and
they would not sign.
"Up to this time I had fought in some important battles, but
had achieved no great deed. I was ambitious to make a name for
myself. I Joined war parties against the Crows, Mandans, Gros
Ventres and Pawnees, and gained some little distinction.
"It was when the white men found the yellow metal in our
country and came in great numbers, driving away our game, that
we took up arms against them for the last time. I must say here
that the chiefs who were the loudest for war were among the first to
submit and accept reservation life. Spotted Tail was a great war
rior, yet he was one of the first to yield because he was promised by
the chief soldiers that they would make him chief of all the Sioux.
Ugh! He would have stayed with Sitting Bull to the last had it not
been for his ambition.
"About this time we young wurrlors began to watch the trails
of the white men Into the Black Hills, and when we saw a wagon
coming we would hide at the crossing and kill them all without
much trouble. We did this to discourage the whites from coming
into our country without our permission. It wus the duty of our
great father at Washington, by the agreement of 1S68, to keep bis
white children uway.
"During the troublesome time after this treaty, which no one
seemed to respect, either white or Indian (but the whites broke it
first), I was like many other young men much on the warpath, but
with little honor. 1 had not yet become noted for any great deed.
Finally Wapaypay and I waylaid and killed a white soldier on his
way from the fort, to Ms home in the east.
"There were a ftw Indians who were liars and never on thi
warpath playing 'good Indian' with the Indian agents and the wai
chiefs at the forts. Some of this faithless set betrayed me and told
more than I ever did. I was seized and taken to the fort near Bis
marck N. D. (Fort Abraham Lincoln) by a brother (Tom Custer) ol
the long-haired war chief and imprisoned there. These same lying
Indians who were selling their services as scouts to the white man,
told me that I was to be bhot to death, or else hanged upon p, tree.
I answered that I was not afraid to die.
"However, there was an old soldier who used to bring my food
and stand, guard over me he was a whit? nuu, it la true, but bt
