V
THE OMAITA SUNDAY DEE: OCTOBER 21, 190(1.
5
fall Fashions
for Men Folks
s
f
19
PENDULUM of fashion Is swinging back to
the moderate in men's clothes. From the point
cars ago of extreme simplicity it swung last
j ear ic inc extreme ot exaggeratlon. It ha3
started this season on the reverse stroke; the
numerous points of style are less extreme than they
vcto and a tendency is shown toward a natural fit of
tho human figure. A complete summing up of the style
tendency of the season may be given in the following
t editorial words from the opening fall and winter number
the Sartorial Art Journal:
"The grotesqueness and effeminacy which character
ized men's clothes during the two seasons Just passed
have been relegated to the limbo of bad form, and the
deformingly broad built-up coat shoulders, tho effem-
. Knute uuuom nare ot sacKB, tne attenuated cutaway
points of waistcoats and the extravagant peg-toppiness
ot trousers, Vhl no Icnjcer distress the eye of the artist
and disgust the man of sense. In place of these ab
surdities we shall have, duriiiR the incoming fall and
winter season, coats shaped to suggest the figure of ;he
wearer, instead of making It appear a monstrosity,
waistcoats less suggestive of tho weeping willow, and
trousers that will not grossly slander the masculine form
below tho waist.
"Throughout the entire sartorial field of fashion
there is not only no garment to which well founded ob
jection can be made from the viewpoint of art, but none
that will fall to command the admiration of all who
are fond of beauty in attire."
Take a trip among the tailor shops of the city and
look at the fashion plates or observe the styles as dis
played in the houses which handle good ready-made
clothing and you will realize this to be true. The de
forming qualities of men's clothes are passing and in
their place are coming a higher style standard ar
tistically. Whether one goes this fall to the tailor or the store
where ready-made clothes arc handled he can hardly
be disappointed. Many poorly dressed men wear tailor
made clothing, many well dressed men wear it; many
poorly dressed men wear ready-made clothing, many
well dressed men wear it. Let the man who wants to
dressed go to a tailor who knows how to make
thes, or let him go to a clothing house which
high grade ready-made clothing. He makes a
mistake If he goes to a tailor who cannot follow the
styles, or if he patronizes a house which sells cheaply
made clothing. At either tailor shop or clothing store
he can get what be wants this fall, for styles are pleas
ing and the variety of fabric and design is compre
hensive. Coat shoulders are lightly padded, Just enough to
hold the coat in shape and not at all suggestive of the
pads of a foot ball suit, as the shoulders of last year
were. The collars of all coats are moderately short.
Popular favor is no longer accorded the ridiculous flare
of the coat skirts of last season, and this year, though
the coat does not hang straight, the fullness of the
skirts has been so greatly diminished there would seem
to be no flare at all were it not for the slightly military
suggestion at the waist. Undersacks are of medium
length and cut medium shape in the back. The double
breasted frock has well peaked lapels, the cutaway coat
has longer skirts than last year and the waist dip of both
is an inch more than last season.
For business wear there never was a greater variety
1 be well dr
i stylish clot
handles hl
(
of fashionable sacks in handsome patterns than this
season. They are about half fitting, have a center
seam vent seven to nine Inches in length and
will ruir thirty-one to thirty-two inches in length
for a man of average height, or one inch longer
if the coats are double-breasted. The breast pocket is
welted. Four-button and three-button coats are the most
popular in sacks, though a two-button double-breasted
sack with a long roll is permissible for the man who
relishes the ultra in dress. The conservative double
breasted sack rolls to about two inches below the breast
line and closes with three buttons.
A number of changes have been made in vests.
They are made collarless in the single-breasted and gen
erally with collars In the double-breasted. They close
moderately high and the cutaway points are of mod
erate length. Six buttons are generally used, but five
and seven will be asked for not infrequently.
Trousers are no longer as big as a gunnysack at the
waist, but Just easy enough to afford the wearer com
fort. Those made for business wear hang straight; for
day dress they are slightly shaped to the knee and
swelled over the calf. Cuffs are still considered in
style, though the tendency is to get away from them.
Though styles in dress clothes do not change so
rapidly as do styles in business suits, yet there are some
features to be noted in dress clothes. The evening dress
coat has peaked lapels, a silk-faced roll which extends
nearly to the bottom of the forepart, three buttons, a
one-piece forepart, lapel and skirt. The vest is single
breasted with a slightly convexed opening and it has
medium length cutaway points. The trousers have fancy
braid on the side seams, are moderately close fitting at
the hips and slightly shaped to the legs. For the more
conservative man, the coat has a shorter roll and Is
silk faced only to the buttonholes, has two buttons and
strapless skirts. The vest has a shield shaped opening.
Worsteds are the prevailing fabric in this winter's
suitings and they are to be seen at the local shops and
stores In great variety, beautiful design and coloring.
Worsted and wool suitings, well wearing, soft to the
touch and elastic, are also great favorites, and fancy
cheviots have lost nothing of their popularity. Checks
are a pronounced feature in the designs of the season,
some bold, but the predominating ones very neat, so
neat that they almost give the appearance of mix
tures. Stripes, which have always been popular, are
nriich worn again, and the showings are handsome In
deed. In ' colored goods, light grays are so distinctly
In the lead that almost any other color is conspicuous,
though browns are finding considerable favor. For
overcoats fabrics are the same as for coats, and herring
bone stripes will be prominent, although there is also a
popular demand for checks. Trouserings show very little
cnange, stripes being in predominance, but checks being
also popular.
In overcoats the Chesterfield is the leader again for
men who are particular in wishing to be known as
good dressers. Beside being a handsome coat, it has the
advantage of being correct for morning, afternoon and
evening wear, and can be worn over any sort of suit. It
has less bottom flare than last year and the roll Is
longer. The covert closely follows the Chesterfield in
popularity and for morning wear it is the favorite. Then
come the long 6ingle-breasted oversacks, generally with
peaked lapels and hanging nearly straight. One of the
swellest overcoats of the season is the Newmarket or
double-breasted overfrock with hip flaps.
-j
1
Ewemliifi Press
wm musa j ujnaj imh wrjubivii mm 1 1 i m
I.
Freak Footwear and Sober Shoes for Men
HE man who'loves freakish foot- line of tho solo curves almost In a bpitiI-
weer can have his wildest whim circle towurd the toe. The Inside line runs
gratllled this fall. After several out straight from the ball of the foot,
seasons of cormervatlve lasts two forming an acute angle at the toe with the
entirely opposite types of ecceu- curved outer line. Tho result is a shoe
trii'lticH have pushed their way into that is comfortable, much more so than the
the center of the show windows andvjianow shoe of other years. But it cannot
are demanding; recognition ot their UKli- be denied It lacks the grace and beauty of
tu'ss. for neither of them can lay much Its forerunner.
claim to grace or beauty In its makeup. The shoe described above Is an extrcmo
Ono of these types is the extreme spike type, but It represents the popular Ideal In
toe and the other is tho short, stubby, narrow toes. In this type patent leather
heavy broad toe, the result of the recent uppers are the most prevalent. Ono of the
tendency toward comfort in footwear, extreme types hag patent leather uppers.
They have come as the result of the desire with brown leather tops. This gives a very
of the shoo buying public for a change dressy elToct, but it is almost too gaudy
from the conservative medium toe, which for the average man. Then there are all
hiis prevailed for several seasons past, to of the usual kinds of leather, box calf, vict
the comfort of all concerned. kid, wax kid, bell metal finish and a dozen
Q other kinds in the1 pointed toe.
One wing of the aforesaid public wanted 4
something a little daintier than the medium The other type of the freak toe is also
toe. mid the other would be satlstled only broad at the ball, the two sides running
with a creation of exactly the opposite almost parallel to the toe, which is slightly
sort. They wanted a return to the big rounded, but not enough to get rid of a
and cumberous last of an exaggerated bull- very choppy effect. This shoe is said to
dog style. The result is that both ex- be very comfortable, but Its short, stubby
tremos are on the market at the same time appearance will prevent a very large num-
snd either one is considered quite the ber of people from taking advantage of its
thing by the fastidious dresser. comfort.
This is an unusual situation as In other Like the pointed shoe, it Is built with a
t asons one style held complete sway over high box toe, which, by the way, Is one
the shoe world to the exclusion of ail of the characteristics of this fall s styles.
othtr types. Of course tho roan whs In nearly all of the lasts the toe is built
looked entirely to comfort, caring little for up high an inch or two from he end, al-
the dictates of fashion could get what he lowing for a slope toward the toe. The
wanted all the time, but only one type of most popular stub is the viei kid or the
hoe was ths proper thing. calf, although it Is also to be found In
patent leather. The heavy, cumbersome
toe as it appears to- jaat goes better with a dull-finish leather
day is built on entirely different lines from than with the lighter enamels,
the one that held dominion ten or fifteen
years ago. The present style is the result Between these two types are a host of
of a compromise for comfort. Instead of combinations of the two. Conservative
the dainty symmetrical creation of yore, toes can readily be secured and probably
with the sides curving almost equally will be worn by the majority of buyers,
toward the small, sharp toe, tho present They are very similar to the style in vogue
representative of that style is built on last year. T suit those who like a con-
what is known as the -footform" last. It servatlve stub toe there are various styles.
Is very broad at tha ball and tha outside longer la form, with a suspicion of a curve
on the outer-line: - There are also toes-built
on the same general lust as the spike, but
not quite bo pointed. The general buyer
can find almost anything he wants in the
way of shapes.
iAced shoes still predominate, though
there is a marked tendency toward buttons.
This is more noticeable in the pointed toe
lasts than in the broader styles. Shoe
clerks note that many persons who have
not worn buttons for yeurs are buying
them this fall. In the opinion of many
dress critics the buttoned shoe gives a
dresaier effect than the laced. Some peo
ple naturally take to them in order to
have something different from what they
have been accustomed to. In luces the ex
tremely broad linen luce, which was popu
lar last summer with Oxfords, seems to
hava made a good impression and Is ap
pearing in high shoes thlB fall.
Dress shoes are almost as unchangeable
as tho dress suit. The plain toe patent
leather Is really the only proper thing, but
some cap toes are to be seen and are fa
vorites, with many.
Hosiery for men, unlike shoes. Is going
back to plain, conservative colors. Gray
which was a general favorite during the
summer, is still popular, but Is being re
placed by blacks, purples and blues, either
plain or with neat embroidery effects and
clocks. The flashy, gaudy stripes of a few
months ago will not be seen on good
dressers this fall, though some very bright
colors are being worn.
A new fad In the hosiery line is to have
neckwear and socks match In color. For
this reason many clothing stores are ex
hibiting their neckties and their hosiery
In the same case, ties and hose of the
same color being placed side by side. The
navy blue ties are matched by navy blue
hosiery, the same being true of purples,
browns and wine colors. Neat effects rule
the market and within conservative llmltu
almost anything goes.
ft
'''rulJv s vVra .a
id
SMI !f .. i'-it-ipi"
X a I L. A.' nW aPW W k
III"' ---'..
MOUSe La
Carriage
Livery ..c
It is, of course, the first
essential in the selection of
livery for house and carriage
service that the garments be
absolutely correct in such tie
tails of style and trimmings as
are approved by the dictates of
established fashion. AVe are
headquarters on liveries, as wo
have a large uniform depart
ment devoted exclusively to
this line for both house and
carriage. "We carry the hats,
gloves, ties, etc., in st&ck.
Our suits for evening dress including
the Tuxedo are correct in cut and ele
gantly trimmed and finished.
We can fit you as surely as in a
business suit.
Coats waistcoats and trousers may
be had separately.
The correct things in linen gloves
and ties. In fact anything you may
need to be properly dressed for the Horse
Show or any dress occasion will be found
here and in the LATEST STYLES.
WHIP
R. S. Wilcox, a
oo Manager. i
E have Sartorial "expression" down to a fine art.
V V It is the product of years of experience in making
not a suit of clothes, but tho suit of clothes.
We believe that
Quality of material comes first;
Skill in construction second;
( Latest styles third ;
Economy of our trade fourth;
and always "
We like to heln the man who vaauelv understands nnnei
dress, but who does not know how to attain it.
For that rsason, tailoring with us is a profession, not a
tradG. . j .
You will be pleased with the wide range of fabrics at your
command and you, of course, know a Droshor Suit when
i "you pass it. - , -
1 Our reputation is the heritage of close attention to style, fit
and minor detail.
hi
2U3 West Broadway
Council Bluffs, la.
1513 Farnam Street
OMAHA
r
143 South 12th Street
Lincoln, Neb.
Open Evwnlngs Too Busy Makinor Clothes to Close.
A NOTRE DAME LADY'S APPEAL
To all luiowlng sufferers of rheumatism
whether muscular or of the Joints, sciatica'
lumbagos, backache, pains In the kidneys
or neuralgia, pains, to write to her for a
home treatment which has recat dly
cured all of these tortures. Blio feels it her
duty to send it to all sufferers FKBH. Yon
cure yourself at home, as thousands will
testify no change of climate brliiK neces
sary. This simple discovery banishes urin
acid from the blood, loosens the llffenei
joints, purifies the blood and brightens thu
eyes, giving elasticity and tone to the wholo
system. If the above interests you, for
proof address Mrs. M. Summers, iiox 411.
Notre Dame. Ind.
WAOTE
r-COMIET PLAYERS
TO WRITE
for photographs of
our expert artist
selected
LYON & HEALY
"OWN-MAKE" CORNETS
TramtW anri Tin nl w A 1 . i 1
- ' - - " . - 'luuuo, mnv m .(Jwitti
oiler In regard to terms. Bandmaster! and
. ci.iiri im ui-uirijr requearea io write.
Old Instruments taken In exchange.
Oepf. LYON A HEALY, Chicago
Business
Boosters
Try ths Want Ad
' Ooiamna of Tb Be.
j jj
CASTILIAN boots
KISS NASH AND MIS3 CUDAUT IN CL'DAUT BVNABOUlS
"PHE last word of fashion in women's
footwear is the new Queen Quality
CastiIian Boot." Its distinctive features are
a short vamp and forepart, a high Cuban
heel and a high arched shank and instep.
These handsome boots accentuatethe beauti
ful, graceful lines of the foot, and give it the
appearance of being a full size smaller. Not
only is their style inimitable, but the "Queen
Quality" trademark is a positive guarantee
of quality. And never did this signify so
much as now, when shoes are being cheap
ened on all sides to offset the advancing
cost of leather and other shoe materials.
MYDEN BROTHERS
V - j
T
IvLn
3K
NO MATTER
WHAT
YOU WANT
It Will Save
you tlmGfind
monoy if yoa
will use .
THE DEE
WANT
ADS
Specials for This Week
Genuine Sealskin Jackets and Blouses,
London dyed, $175 and up.
Natural Otter Box Coats and Blouses, in
stock and made to order, $125 and up.
Genuine Leipzig dyed Persian Lamb Bob
Coats and Blouses, $115 and up. ,
Siberian Squirrel Blouses, very choice,
American Leipzig dye, $65 and up.
Near Seal, Electric Seal and Blended Coney
Blouses and Automobile Coats, $25 and
up.
Scarfs, Collarettes,
Storm Collars, in every
conceivable style.
Everything new and
at the right price.
Ermine, Chinchilla,
Sable, Baum, Martin,
Black Martin. Otter,
Beaver, Mink, etc.
Every garment is made in our own
f v a W0I"k room8' Fit material and style
j guaranteed.
Fine furs remodeled and repaired at
moderate prices.
u uy direct ana save me middleman's
profit.
mi
y-.. ! r--5sa.
MX . I:
m
G. E. SHUKERT
313-315 South Sixteenth Street
I
V
Tr