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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 21, 1906)
t . I . u V 0 THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: OCTOBER 21, 1906. J 5 K ' V f IT h Bred Horses THREH OF THE) Millinery ' for Winter Months Ni " v. io.-iAuiuinn una I winter fuhions r now absorb- Cti r vrTT t ... world, and those gifted brings who hav furnished th dcalgna thin season have certainly evolved traps to tn snare the most penurious, for surely never before was there such a bewildering; dis play of new shapes, new colors and new materials In the way of headrear. There lare no end of smart, rather eccentric. Vhapes that require a close study of the h5lit angle to be becoming;. There are exaggeratedly large shapes on the picture order, which demand a coiffure In keeping, while there are also endless varieties In shapes among the more reasonable medium sizes. The prices asked for the so-celled unique shapes are father overwhelming, but, while there are plenty of women who can afford to choose the bats they like without stopping to ask the price, there are many more who must needs stop and (consider carefully the amount of money tlay have to spend. These last will tind tills season that their lot In life la not so pathetic after all, for there never wer so many smart and becoming hats of medium price to be had as at the present time, and to wear an unbecoming hat Is simply a proof of lack of taste a lack of vanity rather than poverty. When the question of expense does not enter into the choice of a winter's ouUlt there must needs be a hat to match every gown, bu It Is quite possible for a woman to get along and look smart also with two hats one on the simple, rather severe, or- ur weryaay wear, ana one more elab j- ,8 for afternoon. Theater hats are an- otner proposition. It being considered ob ligatory to wear hats, and those on the picture order. If occupying a box. In the ordinary orchestra or balcony seats no hats are allowed, so the term theater hat Is somewhat ambiguous. The so-called thea ter hat la a most elaborate affair, and Is, in truth, the same that Is worn for dining or supping at a puhllo restaurant. . . . . Most Attractive Shapes. Soft felt and beaver hats, trimmed with tiff wings; ribbon or velvet bows are most attractive this season and are to be seen both In light and dark colors color, by the way, playing an all-Important part In this season's millinery. The stiff, bright colored wings might punle an ornitho logist to decide to what manner of bird they belonged, but Dame Fashion does not bold to the belief that nature unadorned is always the most desirable, and the aid of blight colors by the dyer's art often produces a more satisfactory colored plu ' mage than the original. There are not many hats with trimmings of the same 1 color, twist of velvet In some sharp 1 contrast and a large bow at the side, 'if bright wings are used, being thought very smart. Both velvet and ribbon bows play an all-Important part In trimmings, and it la marvelous how many different ef fects are secured by the clever arrange ment of rosette, cockade or a mass of stiff bows piled one on top of the other and covering the entire side of the hat. S The different angles at which the hats re worn are most bewildering, although tow the back and front of the hat are more clearly defined and it Is no. longer possible, as It was last spring, to wear the front at the back. All the smaller hapes are bent or folded, and the shaggy felts and beavers are more used than the stiff ones, and this notwithstanding that there are many very attractive shapes' eylth stiff, unyielding crowns and brims. In large shapes velvet hats are to be NOT ! (( n . wm I k? IHIorse Ml- Neatest Snappiest Styles la tin Shoe World for Men at $3i 9 Pllabla HorSO Hide Lathar Also, fer attsUee Wear 8H0ES FOR MEN IN A STORE FOR MEN. The Walk-Over 1521 Farnam EO. 8. THOMPSON, Tha BRANDEIS HOR8B8. seen made over both stiff and soft founda tions. Many of the brims are turned down In the mushroom effect, ss It Is called, but this is not to be rashly recommended, as the rhape Is a very trying one. It la still fiishlonahle to have trimming beneath the brim, and, indeed, there are many hats which appear to have more trimming underneath the brim than on the hat itself, masses of mallne. In which are half hidden sprays and plumes, fill In the space be tween the hat and the hair that even the fashionably full coiffure has failed to do, while often stiff wings or ostrich tips are placed at tho side and back under tha brim. luvanal Hat of Velvet. One of the odd hits for autumn wear has an oval crown of velvet, a soft, dull green, on modified Tarn o' Bhanter lines. The brim Is also of velvet and has resting on Its outer third a plaiting of green taf feta of the same shade. Under the brim are folds of green tulle, alpo in the samo du'.l shade. Pushed In between the bus of the Inward sloping crown and the slightly raised and curving brim are two rows of velvet and satin roses in all shades of pink, even down to a dull red, the hue roses take when they are fading. Where the brim 1? raided the most there la only a slnele row of roses, thus making here and there a break In the double-row ar rangement. A full rope-colored ostrich plume, a short one, shading from deeper pink In the center to a paler tone at the edges and tip, Is fastened In Under the roses at the raised left side and fall over the back, where a full ruchlng of green tuft Is arranged. Ostrich Plumes. Ostrich feathers are more ' fashionable than ' ever, and there Is no ,'llmlt to the length that Is used. . Placed around., the crown and drooping down to the shoulders is not considered too exaggerated, and the fullest .feather are in great demand. There Is again a note of the picturesque In these feather trimmed shapes, the drooping brim and the long feather having more than a mere resemblance to old English prints of demure maid., and maiden, while the always becoming and popular Gainsborough is also represented both In the black -colored velvet of soft beaver hats. The long black plume and the pink and yellow rose, half hidden In the folds of mallne, appeals Irresistibly to almost every woman, and the only danger la that the fashion will become too popular, espe cially as It requires careful treatment and can easily be caricatured. All black hats, fortunately for the eco nomically minded, are to be Immensely fashionable and will be worn with all sorts of gowns. With the light theater gown the all black hat Is once again considered smart, and. It must be admitted. Is often more becoming and effective than the col ored, although the pale pink, blue and yellow hats are most charming and dainty. Black hats with colored wings are very smart at the moment, but it Is not safe to count on their being ao for any length of time. Invariably in the early autumn do these black hats with bright, trimmings find favor, and almost Invariably as the season advances are they quietly but firmly pushed Into the background. A favorite model is a most demure stiff black velvet, with low crown and turned down brim. Around the crown Is a wreath of bright roses veiled In black tulls. With this is worn a lace veil and a quaint old-fashioned effect Is glvep. In sharp contrast Is a 3R HORSB SHOIS MT EVEN'S SHOES roa tmbt Show You drive a barf aln whan youdrlva"palr of colt a" with a pair of our pat ant COLT SHOES All Naw Shoe Store Street Walk-Ovar Man. -1T- 3nl Thai Will MRS. AtXJSON AND soft black velvet toque, with trimmings of. bright, fancy wings and bows1 at the back under the brim, - and two red roses, also veiled by the tulle in fact. It is a decided fad to have all bright flowers veiled in this fashion. ", Tho All-Black Hat. While the all-black hat Is, as has been aid, worn with any gown, It Is considered almost essential with a smart or elaborate costume to have the hat match it In color and often in material. The style now so popular of trimming cloth with velvet the same shade, or rather darker, and then to have a narrow waistcoat and the collar and cuffs of the Jacket of some contrast ing color makes it easily possible to evolve a most attractive hat to correspond. A gown of the new petunia red cloth trimmed with velvet Just one shade darker Is charm ingly trimmed with facings of pale green embroidered In black and white. A hot of the velvet to match exactly can then be trimmed with ostrich plumes or tips, according to which is the best suited to the shape that Is chosen, while If it Is desired to introduce some lighter color by way of contrast it can easily be accom plished by having a white rose or gardenia with green leaves In the fold of tulle or halt hidden under the ostrich feathers. Gray in the new shades1 would be exr tremely trying were it not relieved by some color contrast, so, In the gray costumes are trimmings which is Introduced greeo, red, pink or yellow. The hat to match, of velvet or felt, with Its big plume and stiff gray wings. Is made charmingly be coming at once with the color Introduced by the flower or flowers, and for those women who complain that the all-black hat Is too hard In its outlines the same method may be employed of using some flower that is becoming. It is Interesting this season to note the great variety and apparently often . dia metrically opposed styles that are fashion able. Tho demure and the dashing are so distinctly at vurlance that it seems Im possible they can both be In fashion at the same time, and yet In the one outfit will be Included those styles already de scribed and the others that have bUrli crowns, or at all events high trimming", and a most dashing appearance; but in truth the day has gone by when three, or at tha least halt a dozen, shapes were furnished the general public with the pleas ing information that these six, and these only, were possible, and that to wear any thing else at once marked a woman as being hopelessly behind the times. Now the number of shapes Is practically without limit, and while there must needs be some thing that denotes they are of this year's design, there Is no cast-Iron rule to be fol lowed. This was exemplified when the absurdly small bat came into fashion. It was a style Impossible for the great majority. and consequently the clever designers straightway provided other models to choose from, leaving the tiny shapes for those to whom they were becoming. -Oh Pf-lnt la Coasaioa. All the hats now do possess one point In common. They show the hair, and conse quently the coiffure must always be care fully looked after. .Unfortunately, since' the edict went forth that curia, puffs and full side pompadours were fashionable, many women have apparently neglected to coma and brush their hair sufficiently, and the general effect has been hopelessly ugly. The present style ot coiffure requires most careful attention and must Invariably be kept in moist perfect condition, tor, as haa seen said, all the new hats display so much of It. It is. of course, quite too early In the season for fur hats, but they are to be ex tremely fashionable this winter and al ready are to be seen among the exclusive models in millinery. The toe.ua and tur baa shapes are, as usual, to be seen, but there are also more quite novel designs maila on tha same lines as the felt or vsl. I vet. In sharp contrast are the tulle and laos bU trimmed with fur that axe to Be Seen KIU HUTU BBAWUBIB AXXt USA- GUU HER FAVORITE MOUNT. be worn with theater and reception gowns. Only the most expensive materials are used In these lace and fur hats, so, as may well bo Imagined, they cost consider able money; but at all events they show what they are, and tho price demanded Is not merely for the Individuality of shape and style. There are many different qualities in tho felt and beaver used in the new hats. Some closely resemble the cloth of the costume, and, In fact, cloth itself Is often used; others are almost shaggy, like fur. Bat In, teo, la in fashion again, while satin com bine with velvet is thought effective. This combination, aa well as the plain satin, came Into style last winter and was not universally popular, bnt apparently has taksn a new lease of life, for certainly there are many extremely smart hats made In this fashion and trimmed with flowers, stiff aigrettes or ostrich feathers. Cble Hats for School Girls. Felt hats for school girls of tender years are both chlo and becoming this season. There are numbers of round shapes, with pompons in the front and folds of silk around the crown or with velvet Instead of the silk. Plaid ribbons, flowered ribbons and velvet and silk mixed rlbbonsare also very much used on the fall hats tor young misses. The passion for stripes, which is so noticeable In new women's wear of all sorts, is also noticed on girls' fall hats, both In the silk and velvet trimmings. Nor is the school girl without the taste of the moment in wings and birds., Many hats for misses are shown In round or turban shape with wings or birds across the front or at the side. Hats made of felt braid are also quite popular this autumn for little girls. These re in sailor, continental or English walk ing bat shape or in modified tam-o'-shanter styles. They are trimmed with ribbon chous, frequently in the same color, with little and big buckles and with breasts, wings or aigrettes of the same color, or white. The favorite colors seem to be brown and tan, although red. as always In the autumn, Is also a prime favorite. The plaid and fancy slllf trimmings seem to be reserved for the plain felts or beav ers, while plain colored trimmings of the v ; Trusses, Supporters, Elastic Stockings :1s C at the Omaha Horse Show BOS& 3 i w t' - . - . r 4, v . - same shade or a lighter or darker shade of the same color ate used on the braided bats. Some of the round hats are turned straight back off the face, with a broad band of ribbon and a flat bow on the crown. One of the most stylish hats seen' has a rolling brim sailor, turned up more at the sides than In the front and back. It was trimmed only with a flat, stiff leather band, with a small square bow In front. A brown braid hat was trimmed with box pleat in of velvet and a gray felt with a velvet fold and a squirrel's tail at the side. - Cloth and crocheted tam-o'-shanters are, of coarse, always very suitable for school use, and these are now made with bows and banos of plaid, striped or figured rib bon and quills at the side. Dotted Swiss Collars and Calls. For the girl who indulges in plenty of turnover cutis and collars, nothing is much more attractive than the new ways of treating dotted swlss. Swiss with the tiniest of dots has been used for many a long day, the horns set by hand, or perhaps brlarstitcbed with the soft French cottons. But the swUs which boasts ' larger dots, and lias those dots treated in a doxen dif ferent ways, is particularly good for the deep cutis which are the favorite style this fall. Certain of the dots are chosen with which to form a design, the rest of the dots carefully ripped out, A row of dots may be disposed so that they seem to march along the hem In Indian file. Some times they are embroidered with colored cotton, the original embroidery acting as a padding. Briar-stitchlng Is often another factor in the design daisies made, perhaps, by let ting the stitching ray out from a central dot to other dots and back again, each re turn trip completing a petal. In this c. tv. all unnecessary dots may be ripped out. . ' New Collars la Embroidery. Paris Is sending to tho exclusive shops charming mw collars of naipsook, fine linen and embroidery. All of the new col lars are most elaborate, with long piece DEFORMITY BRACES ARTIFICAL L Dili 3 BATTERIES CRUTCHES HEARING HORNS H. J. PENFOLD & CO. 1408 Farnam Street DO NOT NEGLECT YOUR EYES Eyes tested free by our expert optician. "When you come to Omaha you are invited to call and have your eyes examined. H. J. Persfold Co. LBADINO eCJENTiriC OPTICIANS OMAHA, NCS. V-v-- J.::-- -v :u .r - DXWXI1WXHB .MEQEATH PONT AND BASKET CART. down the front of the waist made of plaited lawn or nainsook, over which are tabs, ties, ruffles, etc., of embroidery and lace. These collars at first glance have a rather matronly look, and. Indeed, somewhat re semble those which for years have been relegated to elderly ladies. But they are now being worn by all ages of womankind, and. Indeed, the up-to-date silk or flannel shirt waist Is hardly complete without one. Needless to say, they add a great deal to the expense of a shirt waist outfit, as they are of the finest material and are hand embroidered. - When shown In the shops fabulous prices are asked. Of course, the clever needle woman can readily make them of odds and ends of linen and fine cotton materials which have been left around the house. Then, too, If hand embroidery Is not pos elblo the collars can be decorated with In sertion and applications of embroidery and lc, which must, of course, be set in by hand. Ribbons aad Wlnnrs In Millinery. Acting upon the assumption that a de tailed description of a few of the newest and prettiest autumn hats is worth more than columns of general observation con The New "Hit" IIS i i r 1.1 II Albln Hunter, the popular musical director ot the Orpbeum Theater, whe knows a good thing when he sees it, says that all Omaha will be whistling "The Hurdler," the new intermezzo two-step, inside of a week. It U being played by the Orpheum orchestra this week, as well as almost every orchestra in the city. The music and department stores are all having a big run on it, and "The Hurdler" Is becoming a craze. It Is one of those catchy numbers which keeps you awake at night with its tantalizing themes, and the only way to get rid of it is to buy a copy and learn it. CAMERAS and KODAKS FILMS PLATES ALBUMS CARDS H. J. Penfold & Co. 140 Farnam Straat OMAHA, NEB v Tjr 1 .. V" v , . i - r, -mi-ivi' u. MXKI&ATH PONT. ,' 4 v- cerning the millinery, of the hour, says a New York -fashion writer, let me award the prlxe for elerance and pictorial efloct to the Lambolle model. The hat in a way recalls the EnglUh Dolly Varden shape, and Is very simply trimmed With a mass of plumage or flow ers on the crown and at the bock, with a ribbon bow and hair-colored tulle, that popular brown shade that' does not ap pear to falter as a fashionable milliner accessory. One such bat shown to me last week bad a brim of stretched taupe-colored satin and a crown made of handsome rib bon, oovored with a blurred pattern In fuchsia and rose, while waving on high were, the handsomest ostrich feathers, each quite short, and with the tip curved down gracefully over tho brim. Ribbon and wings are the two promi nent adjuncts of the millinery world at present, with the exception of ostrich feathers, which are always In fashion, and marabout, to be used this autumn In tho form of huge, soft pompons. Some of the turbans, with their pointed fronts and draped crowns, need nothing more than a sufficiency of ribbon to trim them. at file Grpheum r r w 1 . : , If' t II (i I M ! ! A 'Si 1 'V -i T t i'i t i ;'i