The Omaha Sunday
FASHION SECTION
Pages 1 to 8
No Filthy Sensations)
THE OMAHA DEC
Best & West
VOL. XXXVI-NO. 18.
OMA1IA, SUNDAY MORNING, OCTOBER 21, 1906.
SINGLE COPY FIVE CENTS.
if WHAT DAME FASHION HAS DECREED WOMAN SHALL WEAR
Bee.
(
V
Fall and Winter Styles in Everything a Well Dressed Woman Should Hare, with Some Hints as to the Novelties and Kickshaws Shown in the Stores at Present
EVER before have the Omaha store afforded auch an ae-.
sortment of Imported costumes. Each season the mod
istes have brought over a few models that have Bold Ilk
the traditional hot cakes, but this season the buyers for
the larger stores have brought home a generous assort
ment, and there Is case after case of the most bewildering creations
that bear the magic little marks of the world-famous designers of
Paris. Vienna, London and New York, that are the guaranty of ex
Uusiveness and perfection. Owing to the incomplete condition of
lome of the display rooms Just at present the showing of this finery
bas been materially handicapped, but it is to be seen if people will
lust ask for it. .
As for the gowns the term "creation" was never more fittingly
ipplied than to these bewllderlngly intricate models. Words or
tven French "terms" are inadequate to give any definite notion of
the detail or the marvelous combination of materials, colors and
"touches" that contribute to these exquisite results. The most ex
perienced salespeople and modistes are at a loss to name half the
materials that enter Into their makeup, even as body, and in conse
quence they are only to be described as "imported" and according
to the general style. And almost as amazing as the costumes
themselves are the prices attached. Considering the cost of the
srdinary Imported gown they are not expensive, but are very much
cheaper, than gowns Imported to order.
Some Beautiful Imported Gowns
One magnificent Blum model is a princess of allover black
Duchess lace built over black chiffon and taffeta.
Another princess model works out an exquisite iridescent effect
Id the combination of net and chiffon in shades of pink, green and
blue. The robe Itself Is of cream spangled net embroidered with
Iridescent spangles and made over pink silk. . A girdle Is formed
of pink, green and blue chiffon and the bodice draped with the em
broidered net and touches of cut steel and black velvet.
One of the handsomest Is a Perdeaux model in two pieces. Its
body 1b of silk mull in one of the new shades of brown. This is
elaborately embroidered in shades of brown and lavender and com
bined with a novelty lace. v
It may be added that the two-piece gown is as much or more
In evidence than the princess.
The opera and carriage coats are quite as marvelous as the
gowns.
One full length Perdeaux model is of real Irish crochet lace
built over accordeon-pleated white chiffon on a foundation of
white taffeta. Bordering the front, at intervals around the foot and
In the top of the sleeves, are Irregular shaped medallions of Vhite
embroidered Bilk. The garment is semi-fitting in the back and
given something of the empire effect by a- double fold of golden
brown velvet interwoven In the lace and extending down from the
shoulders. The velvet occurs again on the front and again par
tially outlining the front medallions at the lower part of the skirt.
The flaring effect of the skirt. is emphasized by accordeon-pleated
under ruffles of chiffon edged with Valenciennes lace pleatlngs, the
same lace pleatlngs edging the front lining. The sleeves are long,
ample and open, the, lace being built over successive pleatlngs of
lace-edged chiffon.
Irish Point Lace Model
Another magnificent model of Perdeaux made is of allover
Irish point U of three-quarters length and a reproduction
of the old-fashioned- dolman. The lace Is built over white accordeon-pleated
chiffon on a loose white satin lining, edged with pleat
lngs of Valenciennes lace.
. ' ' fitlll another style is developed in an Ignace model that com
bines Princess Louise lace with a deep cream crepe de chene hand
mbfoldered." This, like most of the filmy things, has a foundation
of accordeon-pleated chiffon and Is bult on a foundation of lace
edged silk. The sleeves are big and full and a deep cuff effect Is
obtained by the Betting of ruffles.
. A gorgeous Ignace model is made In empire effect, the body
being formed of Bilk and linen cluny lace combined with blue silk
brocaded in rose pink flowers. The front ie paneled with silk and
opens over a vest of pink velvet. A shallow yoke effect is formed
bv Insetting of pink velvet in the figure of the brocade, forming me-
The sleeves are run ana eagea wit a ruiues
OVER THE BARS"
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SNAP SHOT BY A BEE STAFF PnOTOORAPHEIl AT THE ST. JOSEPH LIVE STOCK SHOW.
Thy are not only more comfortable, but more- pliable and give a
smoother, and more symmetrical fit. . As for materials, the same
elaborate variety Ja to be had, but the finest models are showing
coutelline as the mobt practical covering' for holding its shape. The
best, in any make of corset may be found or ordered in the Omaha
shops tod&y; and the better stores are all equipped with fitting
rooms, where ten or a dozen models may be tried by experienced
fitters, leaving no excuse for any woman's being poorly corseted.
v . Hats for the Season
aaiiions aooui um , "7 ' , " i. jlZ although there is a generous use of the bright colors,
of blue chiffon, edged with velvet ribbon. Broad black Xlvet rib- of velvet belng uBed
bon extenas over me Bnouiao ton is ueuk uw- '""
steel buckles. The black velvet also occurs in the cuff.
Another handsome model is three-quarters in length and made
of allover embroidered cream net built over accordeon-pleated
chiffon and white taffeta. A broad, flat collar effect extending stole
llke down the front and In a' panel down the back, 1b formed of white
The millinery display is rich rather than gorgeous tnls season,
A great deal
street and the softer
flowing Btyles such as ostrich plumes for dress. There seem to
be no fads in the way of colors, the color being dictated by the suit,
with which the hat will- be worn. '
The little soft felt hat that would fit one's head like a man's
or boy's hat If it were not cocked up in a half dozen places, is one
broadcloth embroidered heavily allover, the deep cuffs being of the 8everal dents or crlmp8 la crQwn qt
wings or velvet ribbon or even flowers of some subdued shade,
The front and neck are edged with a
. . ti
same. Tne sieeves arc iuu.
eord of champagn velvet.
' There is also a splendid line of evening and carriage coats in
black, white, cream and dainty colored broadcloth and doe skin.
The absence of the collar is a characteristic of this season's coat.
Most of these garments- are trimmed with broad silk and soytache
braid, elaborately applied, while others have handsome lace trim
mings. . The front lining is Invariably faced back with some hand
some finish of lace, applique or fancy braid.
Petticoats That are Wonders
This season has brought tout tmpertations In the way of pettl
ooats beside which the most bewildering creations in lingerie are
commonplace. They are made of silk and lace and yards and yards
of accordeon-pleated chiffon with over flounces of chiffon and bolting
cloth to which myriads of tiny ruffles of game ribbon and lace, ap
plied In extravagant designs, are hung. The body of the skirt Is
perfectly plain and gored close over the hips, and the fullness Is ao
qulred in the deep flounces that drop from the knee or above.
One striking model has an upper of wide black and white
striped soft silk to which Is attached a deep white silk foundation
flounce. Over this Is a very fuU flounce of accordeon-pleated white
chiffon with three narrow foot ruffles of chiffon edged with ruchings
of rauie ribbon. The top flounce u 01 www curaoa u wuicu
such as green or dark blue velvet roseB or black poppies. There
is no prevailing characteristic, however, such as the broad back
and narrow front rim so prevalent last winter. . Gray, black,
white and brown are all used with a great deal of black velvet
and black wing or quill trimming. .
The white top with velvet faced rtm continues good this fall
for dress as well as street hats.
Black velvet and black felt are among the best things for the
dress bat and they come In a variety of shapes. They are not ex
cessively trimmed, in fact, there is really little trimming, but it is
applied in the loose, drooping, flowing fashion that gives the heavy
effect. Ostrich plumes and tips are the Very best of trimming and
some of the handsomest models have only' a plume, a bit of velvet
and some filling of mallne in the way of adornment. There is a
tendency toward the narrow front and wider back in some of the
dress hats, escpeclally In the sailor shapes and the modified sailor
shape Is, by the way, being used extensively for dress. The high
crown is also popular, but likely to be severe for the majority of
faces, although Its primness Is materially softened by the use of
ostrich tips which, fall back and well down over the hair. These
hats are usually well raieod In the back and at the side by the high
bando. But It Is the same old story this season as It ever has
and ever will be
'The hat should be selected with reference 'to its wearer and
not its shape, size, or color, or conformity to some prevailing fad,
and the woman who would be sure that her millinery is correct, will
do well, in this day of eccentric styles, to consult with her milliner
before purchasing.
Shape in Shoes
Patent leather will share the honors with the gunmetal finish
in women's shoes this season and will also be combined with it in
dress as well as street shoes. The new finish Is much more dur
able than the patent leather and needs only to become accus
tomed to to be as popular. The short vamp so prevalent last
spring, Is even-more emphasized this fall, but is saved from seem
ing stubby by a more pointed toe. This toe is, by the way, shown
Winfer Coats, Waists and Gloves
F
.OR MORE than a month there have in the soft silks in dainty colors, white and black checks, large and small, and the gray
been vague rumors, credited to black. plaids are much shown for street wear. . ,
those sources from which style The waist that bids fair, to claim first The loose ulster seems to be the principal
comes, to the effect that the lln- place for practical everyday purposes is the offering in the way of separate coats, al-
gerte waist has passed its zenith plaid silk. The plaids are beautiful this sea- though the later season promises other
and that the Bhlrt, or tailored, waist will hold son and are made up-bias and straight, and styles. These come in gray plaids and other
the pinnacle of favor for a while. This may are chiefly self-trimmed, though a few but- mixtures, and are the seven-eighths length,
be due to the approach of the season when tons are' used effectively. Some of the mod- such as were worn last season. They are
these sheer, lace trimmed, lace inset, short els show a narrow vest of plain silk, or even without the storm collar, in fact, most of
moiled medallions of narrow black and white striped silk set Into sleeved things are likely to be uncomfortable of an adjustable white linen. The tailored them have no collar at all and will necessl-
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as well as unpractlcable, but whatever the ul- style la especially good, though some more tate the use of a fur collar. Some loose, semi-
tlmate fate of the lingerie waist may be, the dressy effects are shown. fitting black broadcloth coats are also shown
shops are showing It in very limited numbers, Except for its slightly short sleeves, the as more dressy garments, and the seven
while the showcases are filled with the smart seven-eighths length, the fall tailored suit eighths fitted coat in the tan covert also
est, neatest kind of pleated, long sleeved, has few of the eccentricities bo prevalent in promises to take well.
stiff cuffed, fasten-up-in-front waists in linen the spring. The pony coat, the short, semi- The long glove remains in favor this sea
and madras. To( be sure, there is no element fitting Jacket with its slightly sbort-walsted son to tax the patience and the purse of the
of dress in this new, or rather revived, favor- effect, is still popular, but the tight-fitting well dressed woman. The twelve and sixteen
ite, it is a shirt waist and substantial enough Jacket and the Eton blouse are Just as good, inch glace, with the three wrist buttons, re
to be trusted to the average laundry, or The short sleeve is used principally with the mr ins the favorite for street wear, although
laundress. In the main, it is white and has more dressy suits and it is not short in the the suede is good. The long glove in the
broad pleats down the front and a plain back, sense that the sleeves of the spring coat mocha is one of the newest things and is
Some of the pleats are stitched all the way were. It is seven-eighths length, but re- really handsome, even if it does look big.
down and others only to the yoke, giving a quires the long glove. The Eton blouse is a These come in all the suit shades. The long
full bloused effect. The sleeves are smaller combination of the Eton jacket over a white kid in suede, glace and mocha are the
and the cuffs may button flat or fasten with bloused under of the same.' with a crush dress gloves, although the silk will be used
the link or bell button. The tailored waist -girdle. The tight-fitting round hort Jacket to a certain extent. The silk in light shades
explains the appearance of the stiff turnover Is one of the smartest, things, and all c6me will be used for dancing parties and less
linen collar and the Windsor tie and plaid with trimmings of silk braid and velvet The formal occasions. The little flat or the round
belt. , shoulders are not as long as they have been pearl button is best on the long glove.
But the soft, dressy waist is not doomed and the sleeves may best be called "medium." A novelty in the wrist length dress glove
entirely, and a charming substitute for the There is a distinct tendency toward the long for street year is the silk lining. This has
lingerie la the little soft-net waist that will sleeve, and most of the best tailored things been used in heavier gloves, but this season
be very popular this winter. Plain and em- have the Ion: coat sleeve. offers the silk lining in the dress glove too.
broidered nets are used built over chiffon or The pleated skirt, almost invariably in Of course, all colors are popular, as they
China silk, with wonderfully soft effects, the round length, is shown with the best must match the gown, but for an odd glove
These are bloused slightly and fasten up the suits. Broadcloths and cheviots are gener- the red shades will be much worn. Gray and
back, and some of them have the short ally used and as for color, the navy blue, tan will also be good. The radium clasp, or
sleeves. A yoke of appllqued set, and cuffs green and brown are leaders. Black is bet- one large, pearl clasp, ls.fhe popular fasten-
vmlanclennes lace designs Intermingling wun ine meaamons r.
figures formed of ruchings of white silk ribbon and valenclennes
lace and lnsertings of valenclennes. A design in the ruchlng heads
the flouhes and the foot is trimmed with narrow ruch-edged chiffon
ruffles. . '
- Another model Is of white taffeta silk with a knee flounoe elab
orately embroidered with a vine and flower design In eyelet and
French embroidery. The foot trimming Is composed of three nar
row ruffles with ribbon ruchings and the flounce is headed with an
application vt ribbon ruchlng in medallion effects.
Several shades of blue In the eame tone are combined in an
other model." This, like the others, has the plain body with the deep
flounce, the foundation being of pearl white silk. Over this are
four successive flounces of accordeon-pleated chiffon, each being a
hade darker than that beneath it The top ruffle is of plain chiffon
In a deep gobelin blue and this Is Inset with an Intricate design of
valenclennes lace and medallions and footed with three narrow
thlffon ruffles with ruchlng edges.
' Corsets Show Little Change
The corset of 1906-'7 is not radically different from the models
of the past season. It is still a straight front There Is a per
ceptible lengthening out. however, giving this season's models a
longer back, higher bust and longer hip. Some of the more ex
treme models have a higher back also, but the back worn should
always depend upon the figure of the wearer. The result of these
longer lines Is a decidedly better figure for the average woman, es
pecially the stout woman. Both Bide and front gkrters are at
tached to the better models and all have the front garters. These
are of Immeasurable advantage In keeping tne corset in place en the nd collar, of the same, is also good as trim- ter this season than it has been for some ing for the street glove. The extension glove
figure. Tb better models also have whalebone Instead of steels, uicg. These same soft effects are carried out time-, especially In broadcloth. The gray and ton will continue to be used with short gloves.
with and without a cap. The heel Is still high, the Cuban and mil
itary being the correct thing for street wear. They are also taking
the place of the French heel to a large extent, in the dress shoe In
which they are made of wood. The button Is now used as much as
the lace in the higher grades of shoes and are generally largo, kid
covered, or china or the regular shoe button. The patent vamp
with gunmetal or plain kid upper, or the all gunmetal Is extensively
shown In the walking shoe, the gunmetal rather having the pref
erence, "i
The plain pump without the cap and with, a flowing or a flat
bow Is very good for evening wear. This conies in black and a
variety of colors which remain popular owing, to the continued pop
ularity of the entire suit "to match." A few satin sllpners will be
used, but they will chiefly be orders in shades that cannot be
matched In leather. The castor buckskin is also good for even
ing wear and is shown in strapped fronts elaborately beaded.
Colored spats or gaiters to match the gown is one of the pop
ular novelties for street wear. These may match in material as
well as color or be In direct coutrast as the white spats with the
black shoes.
The wide toe li a characteristic of the better shoes for chil
dren. Almost all of the higher priced shoes! for little folks have
the broad comfortable toe, but the absence of the cap Is as fash
ionable as In women's shoes, though the cap is by no means out of
date. The patent leather and gunmetal vamp will continue In
favor this winter with the upper of white of colored kid for dress
shoes for smaller children. The all white doeskin shoe will be
used for indoor wear by the tiny ones and children up to 4 years.
Underwear Less Obtrusive
Colored ribbons on underwear are even less In evidence than
they have been, although they trre still used on nightgowns and gar
ments where they will not show through. This emphasis of the
undergarments has never been overly popular with the best dressed
women, although some charming effects are obtained in lingerie pet
ticoats worn under the sheer frocks by a bow of some delicate
colored ribbon. The beribboned corset cover Is on the decline, and
the handsomest ones, now that tho season for the lingerie waist Is
over, are embroidered rather than so elaborately inset with lace.
Lace inserting is still good, however, for the thin waists will be
worn all winter under coats and indoors, and some exquisite things
of this sort are being 6hown. Hand embroidery Is lavishly used In
all the whitewear, the convents of France having contributed some
of the filmiest things imaginable.
Some of the most costly three-piece suits, skirts, corset covers
and drawers come In the embroldc d batiste and mull. One set
had all of the flounce edges scalloped and buttonholed, and Instead
of beading, buttonholes were used for shirring tapeB. A border ot
locust blossoms trimmed the flounces, with a vine extending well up
into Its body. Eyelet work is extensively used. The same design
was employed to trim the corset cover. Valenclennes lace is used
by the bolt on some of the petticoats. Some of them are bo elabo
rate In fact that they cannot be laundered, and when soiled can only
be dry cleaned or discarded. One model has a knee flounce covered
with two-inch ruffles of Valenclennes lace edging. The top 1b elab
orately Inset with Valenclennes Inserting.
, The strapless corset cover for wear with decolette gowns is one
of the novelties. It is patterned after the covers that are made of
the by-the-yard embroidery, having a plain or slightly full back,
hollowed slightly under the arm and with the full front that comes
as high over the bust as desirable. This may be adjusted by the
ribbon or. tape upon which the fullness 1b drawn. A narrow white
ribbon'or cord that may extend over the shoulders or over the arms
may be used to keep tbe cover from dropping down, although if not
too loose the gathering tape la usually sufficient to hold It to place.
The two and three-piece combination tailored garment for the
Btout figure is coming more and more into favor, especially as the
season for heavier weight clothes comes on.
For women who wear additional underwear during the cold
weather the fine lisles, silks and mercerized cotton and the fine
wool and silk, or wool and linen mixtures, come in light but warm
weights, that may be worn under even the thin white waists. They
come in the pure white or tints, and fit so close that they are neither
bulky or very noticeable. They are to be had In union or two-piece
suits, and for wear with evening gowns and vests are made low or
with only a strap over the shoulder.
Night Gowns Have Their Fashions
The sleeve continues to be the determining feature of the
nightgown, no matter what the Etyle of the gown Itself may be. Of
course the plainer muslin gowns still have the narrow bishop sleeve
more or less trimmed, but the fancy gown Is sold at least according
to that portion of it that attaches to the arm's-eye. The modified
kimono sleeve, plain, or at least scant, at the arm's-eye and falling
full at the elbow, is most often seen. Some of the handsomest
models have short sleeves cut circular and laced or buttoned to
gether on. the top with ribbons or fancy lingerie buttons. Where
the button Is used the garment has a tailored effect in that its edges
are buttonholed, and it Is embroidered rather than lace Inset Most
of the sleeves are short, few coming below the elbow, while others
have little more than a much-trimmed graduated ruffle as covering
for the upper arm. . The slipover Is most popular among the fancy
gowns. This Is built on a narrow little yoke that Is scarcely more
than a fitted band of lace or embroidery. It Blips on over the heal
Instead of buttoning and is, of course, very low In the neck. These
are made of the softest, sheerest nainsook, lawn or India linen, and
are elaborately trimmed with hand embrodery and Valenclennes
lace. The bishop gown is of much the same style as the slipover,
but draws up In the yoke on a ribbon drawn through a beading.
Gauze In silk, lisle and mercerized 1b the strictly correct thing
in women's hose, and although some lace and dropstitch are used,
they hold second or third place, for the embroidered stocking is pop
ular Just now. , Where the black hose Is worn It Is frequently em
broidered in some conventional figure in a color to match or har
monize with the costume with which it is to be used. For evening
wear with the pumpa the hose matches tho shoe, if that Is colored,
and the best matches are to be had, ot course, in silk. In spite of
the rumors that plaids are to be very good In hosiery, few of them
are being shown bo far.
Boas, Scarfs and Ties
The flat ostrich boa la one ot the smartest bits of finery that
the shops have to offer in the way of accessories to the evening or
afternoon toilet It is a flat collar about a yard and a fourth long
and has tbe effect of a huge ostrich plume curled around the shoul
ders. Jt Is from twelve to eighteen Inches wide and is built on a
flat Batln ribbon. It comes in all the delicate shades and black and
white. The maroon boa will be worn this year, but the ostrich is
better. The round ostrich boa is also good and comes in the same
delicate shades, also black and white. Another boa that promises
to claim wide favor is made of mallne and chiffon. It is pleated in
a wide ruchlng that falB open across the shoulders and drops well
to tbe waist In front As the folds are made of several thick
nesses of mallne it is not as perishable as might be imagined.
The long crepe de chene scarfs are being shown again this full
and In even daintier and more delicate patterns, than before; Soft
blended Persian patterns, plain colors and satin dotted are among
the new things and these run from two and one-balf to three yards
In length. Some smart little scarfs to be worn with short Jackets
are also shown. These are of soft silk in bright colors and do not
quite reach tbe waist
Tbe Windsor tie promises to be a popular trimming for the
plain shirtwaist this season. It is worn with the stiff turnover linen
collar in a short looped bow. A belt like the tie is the proper ac
companiment and is made ot another tie drawn around the waist
and fastened with a buckle or belt pin, or even tucked under to hid
the cloving.
fir
