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AROUND THE WORLD WITH WILLIAM JENNINGS BRYAN
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Ancestral Halls of England, Rich in Historical and Personal Association and Full . of Suggestions for Even the Casual Visitor, Will Repay the Time Spent in Examining Them .
INCOLN, Sept, 10. (Special Correspondence of The Bee.).
He who tees only the cities and Tillages of Great Britain
misses one of the most interesting features of English life.
Land tenure is so different here from tenure in the United
States that the reader will pardon a sketch of the old
fashioned manor. In, England the right of primogeniture still re
mains, and the family home descends to the oldest son. It not only
descends to him, but it continues its descent through him to his son
end his son's son, and Is not subject to alienation. R was our good
fortune to be invited to several of these homes, some of them rich
In family heirlooms and of historic Interest.
Our ambassador, Mr. Reid, Is occupying one of the most famous
estates In England; It Is known as Wrest Park and is about forty
miles from London. During the London season many spend the
"week's end" at their country homes, and after a fortnight's experi
ence in London we could appreciate the necessity for It, for the din
ner hour Is 8 or 8:15, while receptions and balls begin at any hour
from 10 to 12. The House of Commons does not convene until 3
o'clock In the afternoon, and generally sits until midnight. Little
wonder that there is an exodus on Saturday morning.
We spent our first week's end at Wrest Park and were shown
through Its spacious grounds. The house Itself Is only about seventy
years old, but the land has been in the hands of the family for sev
eral centuries. The estate consists of about 7,000 acres, most of it
In cultivation, but enough is left adjoining the house for woods,
parks, lawns and gardens, and these have been laid out and orna
mented by landscape gardeners. There are walks lined with stat
uary, green stretches of velvet turf, miles of well kept hedges of
holly and box and cedar, stately oaks, summer houses, tea houses,
greenhouses and everything In the way of ornament that taste could
dictate and money supply.
The gardens are especially attractive. They were shut in by
high walls and against these walls fruit trees, vines and flowers are
trained with artistic efTect. In the' hothouse peaches are ripening
before their season, and huge bunches of grapes are growing purple.
Cucumbers, tomatoes and many other vegetables, as well as fruits,'
which we grow out of doors are in England raised and ripened
under glass. The strawberries are of enormous size and the goose
berries are as large as pigeon eggs.
Within the house arc spacious rooms hung with pictures of the
nobility that have occupied the estate, and of members of the royal
family who have visited there. The library contains several thou
sand books accumulated through many generations. ,
Not far from the house stands the manor church, supported by
tithes, the owner of the estate usually selecting the minister. In
many places the "living." as it Is called, has ceased to be of great
value. history of the castle, was given on the banks of the stream and at-
The inheritance tax is quite a heavy burden upon the owners of tended by Bome 20.000 visitors. ,
these estates, and many of the landholders are so impoverished that So much for tne great eBtate" of England. They are still maln-
they are obliged to rent their estates In order to raise the money to u,ned and the ByBtem 18 8tnl defended by many English statesmen
meet the tax. a9 tn0 one best calculated to preserve the family and the present
social structure. There does not seem to be as much opposition
Visit tO- Historic Knole nere as an American would suppose to this system under which
priority of birth carries with it so great an advantage over those
Mr. Moreton Frewen, who contributed many articles to the born afterward. The younge children, reared to expect little except
silver literature in 1896. and whose wife is of American birth, took ,n ctlse of tbe death ot those 0idei.( Beem t0 accept the situation as
us down to his place. Brede, which is within sight of the battlefield n matter of course? and tenants descended from generations of ten-
of Hastings. It is a fine old house with a splendid view, and the antB seem to acquiesce without protest in a tenure which deprives
oak doors ahd woodwork, although 500 or 600 years old, are as good them! of tBe prospect 0f ownership.
as new. On the way to Brede we stopped for luncheon at Knole, an- 'whne one can appreclate the beauty of the manors and admit
other famous country place, owned by the West family. The pre.
nt .occupant, Lord Sack vl lie West, was once ambassador to America.
It is a historic place and has seven courts, fifty-two stairways and
$65 windows. . The earliest record shows, that the earl of Albemarle.,
rave the estate to his daughter when she was married to the earl
ot Pembroke.. Afterward it came Into the possession of Lord Say
and Sele, and he conveyed it to the archbishop of Canterbury, who
at his death bequeathed It to the See of Canterbury. Cranmer occu'
pled the place in the sixteenth century and conveyed it to Henry
VIH. (Cranmer will, be remembered as one of the three bishops
wno were ournea at tne staKeo '. jt was once In the possession of
Queen Mary and afterward of .Queen' Elizabeth, who conveyed it to
Dudley, her favorite earl. . The house is a veritable museum and art
gallery, and contains hundreds of pictures, many of them of kings
and others prominent in English history. One of the rooms was
fitted up by James I for himself when he paid a visit to Knole, and
the room is kept as it was. The bed is said to have cost $40,000,
and the curtains and bed cover are embroidered with gold and silver.
The mattresses are of white satin and the walls are hung with
Flemish tapestry representing scenes from the history of Nebuchad
nezzar. .
Dining Hall of Olden Days
The great hall used as a dining room Is seventy-flve feet long
.... w,r. - V
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SMfef-fill ilHi:a4
HAWARDEN CASTLE. THE3 HOME OF GLADSTONE.
nron them. The owners of tlieso homos are potent In parliamentary
elections, as are also the laboring men, although the House of Lords
represent the landed proprietors, more than one-third of all the
farm lands in England being owned by members of that body.
We took occasion to visit some of the shrines of Great Britain.
Of course no one place is so rich In historic memories as West
minster Abbey, it being the burial place of most of the illustrious
of England. One of the most frequented places outside of London
Is Stratford-on-Avon, the birthplace and burial place of Shakespeare.
The house in which he was born 'Is still standing and Is well pre
served, considering the years that have passed over it; from its size
and arrangement it is evident' that Shakespeare's father was a man
of some means. The house is now public property and serves as
a museum where numerous Shakespearean relics are exhlbVted. One
oil painting of him, made when he was still a young man, would
Indicate that even then he enjoyed some distinction among his fel
lows, although succeeding generations have appreciated him vastly
more than his own.
Where Shakespeare Went to School
The grammar school which Shakespeare attended Is still to be
een and at the church they have the baptismal font used at hi?
Christening and the parish register in which his baptism and burial
tire entered. His grave is in the floor ot the church, and there is
nothing to mark the stone slab that covers it but the familiar lines:
Good friend, for Jesus' sake forbeare,
To d!gg the dust enclosed heare.
Bleste be ye man yt spares thes stones,
And curst be he yt moves my bones.
At Edinburgh we saw the home of John Knox and were im
pressed anew with the tremendous influence whtch he exerted upon
the religious life of Scotland. Seldom has It fallen to the lot of
one man so to stamp his thought upon so many people. In Edin
burgh also stands the little chapel, less known to tourists, in which
the Covenanters met and in which the struggle began between them
end the Church of England. It is hard to believe that so short a
time ago there was a bloody war between two branches of the
Protestant church In which thousands suffered martyrdom tor their
religious convictions.
We visited Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond, to which Scott has
given a permanent place in literature, and after seeing them will
not enter into a dispute with any Highlander, however extravagant
bis praise of these beautiful lakes. And, if I may digress for a
moment, we also visited the lakes of Klllarney, ot which Moore
sang. They also are beautiful enough to move a poet's heart and
Inspire a poet's pen, although, to be truthful, I must assert that
that they could not be maintained under any other system than that Lake Tahoe, which shines. like a Jewel in the crown of the Sierras,
which gives them entire to one member of the family and prevents on the boundary line between California and Nevada, need not fear
alienation, still an American finds his admiration for American in- comparison with any of the lakes of Scotland or Ireland. In one
stltutlons increasing while he travels, for to him the advantages thing, however, we cannot compare with England, Scotland and
that flow from Individual ownership and the division of estates at Ireland, namely, the ivy-mantled ruin. It is picturesque and pleas
death seem Infinitely greater than any that are to be derived from ing to the eye. and yet who would exchange a plain cottage, occu
the English system. A ' hundred farmers stimulated by hope and pied by a happy family, for the crumbling vine-clad walls of a
secure in their holdings contribute more than one country gentle- tenantless castle?
man and ninety-nine tenants possibly can to the strength and vigor
of a state.
After all, the large estates are insignificant in number when
compared with the homes of the middle classes In the various cities
and villages, but these are so much like the homes in America, both
In appearance and in management,' that. It is not necessary to dwell
Y. M. C. A. Work on Olher Side
Mr. Weidensall Arranges to Visit All Associations in Europe During the Winter
I
ARRIVED at Geneva, Switzerland, the headquarters of the
world's committee of Young Men's Christian associations, July
17, 1906, and spent about sixteen days, from the 17th of July
to the 3d ot August, in and about Geneva. This Included the
time of a trip up into the Alps from July 28 to August 1.
The reasons for my long stay in Geneva at this time were: First,
my eyes needed examination and new spectacles fitted to them,
since I could not use my old spectacles any more, and, second, I
wanted to have a special and definite agreement and arrangement
with the world's committee, concerning my visitation ot Young Men's
Christian associations throughout the whole of Europe.
Immediately after my arrival in Geneva I called upon the
secretaries of the committees, Messrs. Charles Fermaud, Christian
Phlldius and Waldemar von Starck, and gave them a verbal account
of my world's trip up to that time. The secretaries received me
Birthplace of Burns
From Glasgow we went by automobile to Ayr, the birthplace ot
Burns. Thirty-three miles out and thirty-three miles back, and it
rained nearly the ntire way. We were sustained amid the discom
forts of the trip by our Interest In Scotland's rustic bard, whose
simple lays have endeared him to the universal heart, but our sym
pathies went out to two kind friends, Mr. McKlllup, a member ot
Parliament, and Mr. Henry Wright, a Glasgow barrister, who ac
companied us. ' It was an humble cottage In which Burns first saw
the light and In which he lived when he made the acquaintance ot
those rollicking companions, Tarn O'Shanter and Souter Johnny.
Near by is the famous bridge over the "bonnle Doon," of whose
"banks and braes" he sang, and not far away are the old bridge and
association grew so much upon him and took so much of his Ume th new OM n,ch h, 'ancy c,othed wlth llfe and together
tht hA mniH no Hrt win t hi. man,.fnp.,pino. .nH .w hn-inoca In animated dialogue. After visiting the places and looking upon
Interests and serve the association cause as he ought. The time
the scenes enshrined In 'literature by his verse one reads with even
came when he must give up one or the other as so prominent a reator zest the ame8Pun ballads th,a Impulsive apostle of democ
fantor. th ...noLMnn r hi. ctiv hn-in Aftr f,,ii A. r&cy. I was glad to learn that Increasing thousands wend their way
eration he gave up his business at a large pecuniary loss and re-
to his birthplace each year and that among the visitors Americans
malned in the association work. He is yet comparatively a young "re very nuiueruuB-
man, in full vigor of life and can count upon a long service of Jesus
Chrfat and Hla klmrrinm hpfnra nM mra will rnHai him InnnnfiKIa
of performing the difficult task of the chief executive of the world's reached Hawarflen iu8t " r- Henry Gladstone arrived from, his
We reserved for the conclusion ot oar tour of the British isles
Hawarden castle, the home of Gladstone. With our usual luck we
committee of the association in its work for young men.
Mr. Sarasln and I climbed to the top of the mountain on whose
side the hotel was located, 2,000 feet higher than the site of the
hotel in full view of the great snowy roof range of the Alps. We
were in the center of a magnificent cyclorama of Alpine scenery.
home, eight miles away, and were taken through the house and
grounds by him. The estate of several thousand acres which came
into the family from Mrs. Gladstone's ancestors, .has just passed,
according to the law of primogeniture,' into the hand of a grandson
of the late Mr. Gladstone. . The new owner is a sober, studious
young man who has already achieved distinction In college debates,
and half as wide. At one end is a raised floor, where the table of mofjt cordlaHy and treated me most kindly. They responded to my At this magnificent view point we again turned our attention to the d " ho f preparlng blm9e ,or a publIc career. While
the lord of the manor stood; below him sat the retainers and lower
members of the household. A list of 126 names is preserved, that
being the number , of those who regularly took their meals in the
ball In 1624.' In this hall there Is a large collection of silver and
pewter vessels, handed down from generation to generation. The
grounds and gardens, I need hardly say, are In keeping with the
Interior of the castle. We saw here one of the prettiest specimens
of the skill of the horticulturist's art that has come under our ob
servation. Grapevines are grown In large pots and trained, upon a
request most heartily and afforded me the most intelligent and
practical direction and co-operation.
I called upon an occullst and had my eyes examined and secured
a prescription for new spectacles, but was obliged to wait a longer
time for them than I had expected, since the opticians had to send
to Paris for the glasses required for such spectacles.
Afterwards I had frequent Interviews or conferences with the
secretaries together and alone about their own great and very
difficult work and about my proposed visitation of 'all tbe nations
we en
joyed a drive through the woods and through the park where the
elder Gladstone .was wont . to cut down trees for exercise, our in
terest naturally centered In the big, roomy house, castle-like in its
structure, and in the commodious library where England's Chris
tian statesman labored far more than three-score years, for it must
hT' Whea we wer.lhorethacIu.teri of ripened grapes of &nd tnelr prlnc,pal young Men chrl8tlan a880claUon..
language, government, religion, social customs and in many other
matters. Accordingly my trip through the nations of Europe re
quired Joint agreement and arrangement with the world's committee
and tbe national committees la order that my visitation might be
best understood, receive the most cheerful practical co-operation and
be most helpful to the association work in every way. Mr. C. Fer
maud, senior secretary ot the world's committee, laid this whole
matter before the chairman of his committee, Mr. R. Sarasln, who
promptly and affirmatively responded to it.
We spent one night at Broughton castle as the guests of Lord
and Lady Lennox. The host and hostess have often visited the
United States and are quite liberal in their political views. They
are also Identified with the community, encouraging artistic industry
such aa wood carving and the like by which the young people may
add to their Income, as well as develop their taste. In this connec
tion It should be explained that the owner ot an estate occupies a
responsible position. While he draws rent from his tenants, he Is
expected to be their patron and protector, as well as their general
advisor. He provides the Christmas festivities, gives presents to
the children and looks after the sick.
The moral standards which he sets up have a large influence
upon the religious and social life of the community, and the con
scientious land owner is sole to do a great deal of good.
Where Cromwell Held Councils
Broughton castle is near Banbury the Banbury cross, lramor-
Sarasln, I made a visit to him and his family at Forrest hotel.
where they were spending the summer far up among the Alps in
plain view of the Matterhorn and Mt. Blanc. I bad most Inter
esting conferences with him relative to definite Christian work for
tallzed in child rhymes by the women "who rode a white horse" young men. the most difficult work of the church, but a work that
and was frequented by Cromwell and his chiefs. In fact, in one of affords the most valuable results for Jesus Christ and His church
tbe rooms, as tradition goes, the death warrant of Charles I was vhe faithfully and intelligently accomplished. In these confer-
slgned. The house is of stone and the roof is covered with stone eace we discussed the problems that confronted the Young Men's
tiles and a good root It still is, though 600 years old. In some of Christian association work in the world and particularly in Europe,
the rooms fine oak Danelin had been nalnted over, and in other The harmony ot our discussions and agreement in conclusions were
Imperative need of definite Christian work for the young men of
the world and how it might be made adequate for their need. Like
David, we lifted up our eyes to the mountains, whence came our
help to the Lord which made heaven and earth in behalf of all the
Christian work for young men and young women in the world and
particularly -for the definite work of the Young Men's and Young ha rfimfimhere(, that his nublio life extended over two relation.
Women's Christian associations in this particular and wide open The wa,,8 are concealed by books, and shelves Jut out Into the room
field for definite Christian effort. at rtght ang,e olad8tolle was a prodigious worker and, amidst
Prfl.vM" fnr Wnrlrl fnnnnpat tae care8 of official life, found time to devote to the classics, to the
rrayer lur worm vonquesi sciences and to religious discussion. Among the busts In the room
Mr. Sarasln read distinctly in English out of my book of the Is one of Disraeli, his most conspicuous political antagonist , .The
Testament and Psalms, the 121st Psalm, the first seven versos of the prominence thus given to his distinguished opponent may possibly
37th Psalm and the eighth verse of the first chapter of the Acts of be explained as Hercules explained the courtesy shown by him to
the Apostles, after which I led in prayer for the most'complete and the goddess whose enmity compelled him to perform the labors
widest extension of the kingdom of Christ in the earth and to that which made him lmniortaL
end making special mention of the association work for young men , l ttt
and young women in all parts of the world, for all the committees Gladstone 8 Methodical Ways
and secretaries in charge of the work, tor the great and Increasing OpenlLg off from the library Is a fireproof vault In which Mr.
army .of volunteer workers and for all who had contributed of their Gladstone kept his papers and valuable documents, and he was so
. substance to help In the prosecution of this great work. The Lord methodical that Mr. John Morley, his biographer, found the ma
was with us on that high mountain and we could say with Peter, terlala for his work In excellent order. Not far from the house Is
"It was good for us to be there." But the working place was be- a iaree bulldlnr. erected as a memorial to Gladstone, whleho
By request or tne cnairman or tne worm s committee, Mr. k. ' " we mrnea miucr. my noie visu wun wr. sarasin ana tains his religious library of several thousand , volumes. . The
Visiting in the Alps
rooms handsome stone walU had been disfigured with plaster, but
the present occupant la restoring these. As in many ot the larger
and older country places,' Broughton has a little chapel ot Us own,
where the family assembled for divine service. The castle is sur-
noteworthy.
Mr. Sarasln is a wealthy capitalist and gives his time almost
wholly to the association work. Like Mr. Cephas Bralnerd, first
chairman of the International committee of North America, he Is
rouvded by a shaded lawn, ornamented by hedge, evergreens, flower doing all he can, as chairman of the world's committee, to enable
beds and rose-covered arbors, and around all these runs the moat, the association to do the best and most definite Christian work for
fed from neighboring streams. The memory of feudal times Is young men in full accord with all the requirements of the Paris dec-
Dreserved by the towers, drawbridge and masttlve gates, English laratlon: "The Young Men's Christian associations seek to unite
his family was one of the most delightful occasions ot my whole family has built a dormitory adjoining the library to accommodate
world tour. the students who come from all countries to study theological
I returned to Geneva; attended one of the sessions of the 'questions. ' '.' ' " '.
world's convention of the Christian Endeavor, which was then being We also visited the chapel near by. where the statesman at-
held la Geneva. tended church and often read the service. His son-in-law, the
I met again the secretaries of the world's committee' ot Young ' present rector, showed us the memorial, since unveiled, which will
Men'a Christian associations who furnished me introductory letters draw multitudes to this historic edifice. It Is a marble group by
to all the national councils of the Young Men's Christian assocla- the sculptor Richmond and represents the great commoner and
Uons in Europe, to whom they had previously written and notified bis wife sleeping side by side, an angel guarding them with out-
them of my proposed vlsltat'ons. They marked out in detail my stretched wings. It Is fitting that they should thus rest at the end
first long trip that would consume the time until the meeting of of life, for they had together borne life's burdens and together
the world's committee in Geneva, September 27, 1906. In included shared the many triumphs that crowned their efforts. While he
Denmark, Sweden. Norway, Finland and Russia, and on my return was ' master of the ship of state, she was mistress of an Ideal
to Geneva parts of Germany, Austria, Hungary and Switzerland home; while he was seeking to ameliorate the condition of the
They furnished me names and addresses of the national councils whole people, she was conducting a private orphanage within
and their traveling secretaries and also of the presidents and general a stone's throw of the castle, an institution still maintained In her
secretaries of the principal associations that I might be able to memory. So happy was the long married life of this well-mated
visit on this trip. This trip was to Include a visit to North Cape, pair that at the approach of death he requested the family not to
history Is Illuminated bj these ancient country stats, and much tn those young men who. regarding Jesus Christ as their God and provided I reached Tromso or Hamerfest, Norway, before the steam- permit bis interment in Westminister Abbey, except on condition
English home lite is explained that would otherwise be difficult to Savior according to the Holy Scriptures, desire to be his disciples
understand. ln tneir doctrine and In their lire and to associate their efforts for
Warwick castle Is near Lemtngton and but a tew miles from the extension of His kingdom among men." Mr. Sarasln was a very
Broughton. It Is probably the most visited of all the castles of successful manufacturer and thereby secured a fortune. At the same
England, and is still ln the family of the earl of Warwick, the king time he was a devoted Christian and gave much time and other
maker. It is built upon the banks of the Avon, and has a deep, help to Christian effort In his own church. He ws led Into the
dark dungeon and lofty towers and all the accessories of an ancient association work for young men deeming it the most profitable work
fortress. The great ball it filled with armor and heirlooms. The for Jesus Christ and His church. His time was almost equally
bouse contains a valuable collection of paintings by old masters and divided between Christian work and business. When Professor
the furniture ef the sleeping rooms is as remarkable for Its design Barde, chairman ot the world's committee, Young Men's Christian
M for its antiquity. A few weeks ago a pageant. Illustrating tbe association, died Mr. Sarasia was chosen to take his place. Tbe
ers stopped running to North Cape. This will be' tbe beginning of a that his wife be given a place beside him, and this unusual honor
systematic visitation of all the national organizations of the Young was paid them.
Men's Christian associations of Europe and more or less of their Although nations boast of material wealth and manufacturing
principal local or college associations. Wherever there are Young plants, their most valuable assets are their men and women ot
Women's Christian associations in the place I visit and when poa- merit, and their greatest factories are their institutions of learning,
slble and desirable I shall call upon them, present them the which convert priceless raw material Into a finished product of
greetings of their sister associations as well as of tbe Young Men's Inestimable worth. Gladstone, vigorous ln body, strong ln mind
Christian associations and afford them all the assistance and en- and elevated in moral purpose, was an ornament to the age ln which
courage ment I possibly can. be lived, and will be an Inspiration to succeeding generations.
ROBERT WEIDENSXLL, ' W. J. BRYA&
. fit Petersburg. Russia, Sept. 20, 1906. t ' r - - .i - ' '. (Copyright 106.) ' ' -