With Secretary Root ..... AMERICAN SCHOOL AT PETROPOLIS. BRAZIL. (Copyright. 1906. by Frank O. Carpenter.) 1 -1ASHINGTON, Aug. 1 (Special jAr Correspondence of The Bee.) - ' I rvtma with in t h ! - Hunriav Tnnm- Ing and take a look at the city which la now the. news center of our half of the globe. We are In Rio de Janeiro, where delegates from all the republics of our hemisphere are meeting In conference, and where our own seen, tary of state. Mr. Root, ha gone In a man-of-war to be with them. We are away down below the equator 1,000 miles or more east of New York, In the ttggest Portuguese city of the world, and in what, with the exception of Buenos Ayrcs, is the biggest of all the cities of the lower half of our globe. We are in the capital of Brazil, from where half the lan'and half the peo plo of South America are governed, and in the chief financial and Industrial city of the greatest undeveloped empire on earth.' Rio Is a fast growing town. It had Just crossed the 600,000 mark In 1KM). In 1900 it reached 710.000, and today It haa at least 100,004 more. It Is bigger than any town in the United States excepting Philadelphia, Chi cago or New York, and it Is only 150,000 loss than Buenos Ayres, which is now Just 1,000,000. Where the Charleston Lies. To my mind Rio de Janeiro Is one of the most beautiful cities of the world. The harbor, in which our man-of-war, the Charleston, Ilea waiting to take Secretary Root on down the coast. Is surrounded by great mountains with their tops In the clouda. The mountains are covered with a tropical vegetation from base to summit, and they are of moat curious shapes. One rises out of the aea like a sugar loaf to a height of more than twice that of the Washington monument; another Is a mighty hunchback, and others are great forts and massive battlements. The harbor Itself la shaped Just like a pear, but It is so large that all the ships of all the world could anchor there and have room to spare. It is 150, miles around It and the water is almoat everywhere over alxty feet deep. The bay la dotted with Islands which ap pear to float, aa It were, upon its dlamond tudded surface. Secretary Root In Petropolls. Before I describe Rio de Janeiro proper, which lies on a narrow plain between tbe mountains and the harbor, let me take you up to Petropolls, where the foreign dlplo- mats live all the year around, and where Secretary Root and our delegatea are now apendlng their nights, going out and in to Rio day after day. Petropolls lies Just back of Rlo, but It is more than half a mile straight up in the air above It. To reach it one crosses the bay on a steamer, a distance of twelve miles,: then flies over swampa upon cars to the foot of the mountains and then rises up them by means of a cog railroad like that on Pike's Peak. This ride Is a succession of wonders. It Starts In a Jungle of gigantic trees loaded with orchids, 'with a mat of green bushes far below. Now one sees a fern as high as a three-story house, and now feathery bam boos many feet higher. The road winds this way and that. It crosses ravine after ravine with silvery waterfalls flowing down them. It passes In and out of tunnels, and at times runs urder rocks 1,000 feet thick which seem ready to drop down and crush It. As one rises he haa magnificent vlewa of Rio and the harbor. The train shoots into the clouds and out Into the sunlight again. There are always clouds on the tops of the hills, and In the early morning the Brazil ian capital and lta beautiful bay are so shrouded In mist that one seems to be de scending Into a sea of snow. Petropolls Itself has a climate which Is perpetual spring. It la a combination of the tropic and temperate sones. The air is full of moisture, the trees and grass are always green, and the winds blow as soft aa those of Florida In March. It Is a city of beau tiful villas, wide streets and modern Im provements. Its people are rich, and they entertain sumptuously, so that the Ameri cana will have a eontlnuoua round of re ceptions and dinners. With Oar Delegates In Rio. It will take our delegates Just about two hours to go from Petropolls to Rio. They will rise early, as they are in the tropics, and a delightful ride down the mountains nd across the bay will bring them to tbe pavilion where the conference is meeting In time for the opening seasons. They will feel at home when they enter the building. It Is the same which was constructed for the Brazilian exhibit at the World's fair at St. Louis. It waa built by American labor at a cost of $130,000, and at the close of the fair waa taken apart and shipped.' In sec tions, to Rio dn Janeiro to be put up tor a permanent exhibit of Brazilian Industries, and also for such conventions as this. About the ball are cases showing the va rious manufactures and products if the different Brazilian states, and the members of the conference will not get away with oullearning something about the country. The official banquets, nails and other functions will probably be given In the Bra zilian Bute department, and after the con ference is over the delegate will be takea on a series of excursions to the most ac cessible parts of the Tepubllo. Walks Abont Rio de Janeiro. . I doubt whether they will find any place more Interesting than Rio Itaulf. It la one of the queerest cltlea of all South Amer ica, and the delegate who can keep "from being scared to death by yellow fever stories will find 'plenty to see during hla leisure. He will be delighted with the new residence section, with its villas and Spanish built homes. Ha will find parks which bare no superior on the continent, tail a botanical jjj Jcu lulurlur to nou - v. . !; outside that at Bultencorg, Java. There are bamboos in Rio which are fifty feet high, whose feathery arms interlock and make avenues through which one can walk for a mile or so shielded from the heat of the sun. There are flowers growing wild which we raise In our hot houses and royal palms 150 feet high. Broxll la one of the chief homes of the royal palm and this tree is to be found In every part of the city. It rises without a branch In a sym metrical shaft of silver gray for 100 feet or more and ends In a canopy of beautiful green fern-like leaves. Many of the res idences have such palms along the walks to their front doors, and In the botanical garden Itself are four rows of these palms, making a grove about a mile long, which travelers often consider one of the wonders of the world. The older parts of Rio are much as they Migratory HE removal of the old Edwin Haney homestead from Its high perch on the southwest corner of Eighteenth and Farnam streets, to make way for the new Real Estate Exchange building, calls to notice the fact that a certain kind of blemish to the appearance of things in Omaha is rapidly disappearing. This is the yellow clay crag, towering high above the level of the street, and mounted by long flights of steps, usually unpalnted, leading to the domiciles on the crests. In the old days unfriendly visitors never failed to comment on these unsightly excrescences, and the hideous distortion of form, color and taste they produced. The condition, however, was essential to the creation of a metro polls on the Missouri river bluffs, and la nearly a thing of the past Casual observers seldom understand how the yellow clay monuments and V'he aerial dwellings came about. They saw the houses alongside were at proper level with the sidewalk and pavement, and further along, some much below the grade, despite the fact that the street line dipped to the valley. They did not stop to reason out that the thoroughfare they were walk ing on would scarcely have been passable had It not been cut down and built up to degree of uniformity, and gradual ascent, . Primal Hills Make Trouble. The hills on which Omaha was built un doubtedly supplied a healthy site, but a costly one and difficult for the engineer to lay out his streets and alleys. It is probable that If the town were platted today and the founders were In full knowl edge of a population of, 140,000 within a few years, there would be hardly a straight highway running from end to end of the municipality. Rather there would be focal points and circles, reached by arteries run ning more or less directly along crests, or in valleys, and countless little avenues, contrived to yield to the natural Inclina tions of the hills. The checker board plan of designing a city la obsolete. It Is now regarded as expensive and Inadequate to urban needs, the chief elements of the lat ter being direct lines of travel to fre quented places and freedom from conges tion. Plans that famous architects have made for the new San Francisco, for the. national capital and other cities, are en tirely different from the accepted ldeaa of cities, with thoroughfares at right angles, beginning nowhere and ending In the same place. A glance over the boulevard map of Omaha will reveal adherence to the new scheme. There la no straightaway boule vards In the city. They wind In and out of wooded glens and over summits where tbe grades are easiest, giving fine vlevs and pleasant, shady places. Graders Chmnaje Topography. But the checkerboard plan went when the first surveyors began the attack on the site of Omaha and until there Is a public will to .. - - Is' - t r- OLD HANEY HOUSE ON ITS WAY. and wero In' the days of the empire. There was a city here long before we had any of size in the United States. As early as 1556 some French Protestants built up a town on one of the islands of the bay, and about a hundred years later Rio had 80,000 souls. It was made the capital of Brazil in 1762, and there are houses here now which are several hundred years old. The streets' near the harbor are narrow and some are so low that tbey are flooded at every rain. In some the houses are so close together that they shut out the sun, aad where the street enrs pass- through them It Is advisable to Jump Into a door way, now and then, to avoid losing a leg. At any rate, the street cars go so close that they almost gruie the narrow side walk, and the drivers are no repectors of persons. It Is in this part of Rio that the slums are to be found. ' Here whole Omaha Homes and destroy a great deal of valuable property and spend enormous auma on reconstruc tion, will remain the working base. It meant a lot of money as It was and the records show that considerably more than a million dollars have been spent grading streets. Farnam street in places was cut down thirty and forty feet, and in other localities filled In almost as much. Other highways were similarly treated. Homes . built before the graders got to work were left high on the bluffs and others deep In the hollows, some with chimneys Just peep-: lng over the curbing. ' '-.' Of course the city paid damages to prop erty owners Injured by the grading,' but in many cases the owner", did not think his receipts large enough to .Justify grading down his lot and lowering his home, so let it stand. A few . of these houses are Some Quaint CanKht on His Own Hook. ITH a three-way spoon hook lock ing both his Hps, Leonard Con w ger of East Corning, Pa., rowed a half, mile up the Chemung am river against current, and made his way home, where his father telephoned for a physician. It was an hour later be fore the barbs were removed. Conger was fishing for pickerel, using a regulation fly hook, with a triple prong. In making a cast the line caught the brim of his hat. He gave the refractory cord a Jerk, and the hook fastened Itself In his uprer Up.. In trying to extricate It the lower -prong caught in his under Up, and Conger found It Impossible to open his mouth. With his Hps fastened together and the fly attachment tickling his nose, he rowed up stream and waited speechless for a surgeoj) to come and relieve him from his painful predicament. He la one of the few fishermen who know how their victims feel when caught. Ills Wife In the Trap. Philip Rodney of Centervllle. Pa., a prominent bualneas man, discovered re cently that his wife had been obtaining spending money out of his trousers pockets while he slept. He remonstrated with her", but his wife insisted she had a right to the money. I Serious quarrels followed, but Mrs. Rod ney kept getting the money. The other night Rodney, determined to break up his wife's practice, got a small, strong rat trap and placed It In his money pocket with the Jaws toward the . opening. He was awakened shortly after midnight by his wife's screams, and. Jumping out of bed, discovered her hand tightly wedged In the sharp Jawa of the ateel trap. The woman begged to be released, but Rodney, she declared, allowed her to suf- V' V pr V: .':; ; l i rfe THE OMAHA. SUNDAY BEE: AUGUST Pan-American J to AMERICAN CONSULATE IN RIO DE JANEIRO families live In one room and negroes and whites seem to herd together. This Is also the warehouse section. The smell of coffee fills the air. and In some of the wider streeta long lines of carts are moving back and forth loading and Unloading coffee bags. There are, also fac tories nearby where coffee is sorted, pol ished and sometimes colored for the dif ferent markets of the world. There are coffee grains on the roadway with negro "women and boys down on their . knee brushing them into dust pans to save them, and there are scores of half-naked blacks and whites trotting from the wagons and carts to the warehouses with great . bags on their heads. Each bag weighs 132 pounds, but a porter will stand straight ur and walk off with one as briskly as though, it were feathers. Thl Is the great coffee, port of the world, and still left, well scattered over the city. Up to a year or so ago a few were left In the downtown district on lots not seized for business purposes. The sale of the Haney corner , takea away the' last good example of the transition period and leaves the court house the only downtown building above the street grade. No fault Is to be found with this feature of the court house so far as taste goes, for the terraces are thlnga of beauty and terraces only when one has to climb the stairs to get inside the county building. A ', ' 'J '' ' ',' s The closing Jn of commercialism s oa -the old residence district produced the mlgfa- tory house In Omaha. This affair com- monly was once a homestead of pretention, the early habitat of foremost, .families and birth 'places of leading citizens' and wives of today.' . Used for dwellings Features of fer for a while before he freed her. Her hand was badly lacerated., Mrs. Rodney left her busband and took up her residence -with her parents. She longer live with him. ys she will no Pickles and Vinegar Diet Fatal. Pickles as a steady dtet, washed down with copious draughts of vinegar, caused the death of Miss Annie Gross, 2 years old, who was training to reduce her weight! She dropped deanhe other day in the bath room at the residence of her brother, Adolph Gross, M0 Magnolia ave nue, and the Inquest revealed the cause of her death. Dr. J. A. Hartman performed the post mortem examination and discovered that the walls of the girl's stomach were al moat entirely eaten away. Never before, he aald, had he aeen the walls of a human stomach as thin. He gave rupture of the stomach aa the cause of death, aaylng that the vinegar and plcklea made thla poasible. The girl's brother testified that Miss Gross had been twitted about being so stout, and that she decided to diet to re duce her flesh end avoid the Jokes of her companions. She refused to eat meats and other heavy ford-, and subsisted almost entirely on pickles and vinegar. She lost flesh rapidly and In the end sacrificed her Ufa. Country Home for Tata and !)(. A country home for the poor dogs and cats of New York haa been established at Greenwich, Conn., by Mrs. H. U. Klbbe, president of the BIdeawee home of New York, who brought a hundred doga from the city home of the association to enjoy life on the Leahy farm here. Two hun dred cats are to be brought to Greenwich and already Mrs. Klbbe Is advertising for homes for the destitute ones. The animals which the BIdeawee society cares for are fed from the Waldorf-As -i ': - - . aJ4s , r-mi FORMER !-.LX: ..... .1UU.:;. ' .f J . - 5, 1906. Delegates in Capital of Brazil 'I , r , , . M.U ' THE our delegates will be able to get tbe finest of Javas and Mochas, as well as Rlos, for all come from Brasll. They will get them cheap, too, and as the coffee bean im proves with age, I venture Secretary Hoot and every American delegate will bring back a bag or so of this 10-cent per pound coffee which is sold from 80 cents and up ward a pound In our grocery stores. In the Rna do Ouvldor. Some of the best business atreeta of Rio are almost as narrow as those about the coffee market. The Rua do Ouvldor, which is the chief shopping street and grat gos slpplng place. Is so narrow that at cer tain hours of the day carriages are not permitted to go through It. It Is not as wide as (he Moskl at Cairo, and Is almost as strange. It is walled with one, two and three-story houses, painted in all colors of Their Aeanderings until offers so large that refusal waa out of the question were made, the old homesteads were taken down from their foundations, like the Haney house, and carted away to a retreat on some out lying lot. Here, as a rule, began their social decline. At first painted, papered and repaired they rented to householders of 'caste. Later, when age showed Its deadly hand for all that maintenance might do, they fell Into the hands of boarding-house mistresses and thence their decline' was rapid. The last phase was reached when they became tenements for folk of lndlffer- ent standing In the community, and pride rejoiced when the building Inspector con- demned them and had them reduced to lumber, bricks and mortar again, ': The hlstoryef the house built by a aturdy man who thought he waa rearing Current Life toria hotel In New York. ' Miss Clover Boldt. daughter of the proprietor, whose mother was a member of the BIdeawee when It was Instituted, three yeara ago, and Mrs. James Speyer, Miss Gerry, Jud son Seligman, and others, are taking a great Interest in the animals, whose own ers have tired of them and have brought them to the society, and In those which have been picked up on the streets by In dividuals and taken to the home. Mrs. Klbbe has moved to Greenwich that she may dally drive to the summer dogs' home and look after their interests. Woman Concha In n Tooth. Mrs. W. J. Kerr of New Westminster, B. C, who has been suffering for eight months with a bronchial sllment that de fled the best efforts of doctors In that nd neighboring towns snd which many of her friends took to be galloping consump tion, after a violent parxyn of coughing threw out a large molar tooth that ex plained the whole trouble. About eight months ago Mrs. Kerr was put under the influence of chloroform In the office of a local dentist while she hnd several teeth extracted and during the operation she must have swallowed one of the loosened molars without the knowl edge of herself or the dental surgeon. Shortly afterward she experienced severe pains In the cheat, which iaatead of pass, lng away continued to grow more excru ciating. Violent coughing flta racked her frame several times every day and throughout the entire night, while doctors and patent medicines alike failed to bring any relief. Trips to the seashore were equally un availing and her quick demise seemed assured, till after a fit of coughing more violent than Its predecessors the tooth was discharged from her bronchial tubes. Re lief from continuous pains followed Im mediately. '.-:UT ! - - FIRST BAPTIST" CUURCU. NOW BUSINESS BLOCK. 4 . t - Wi'W U 1 T -rr PAVILION, WHERE THE PAN-AMERICAN CONGRESS IS MEETING. the rainbow. Yellow, pink, blue and green walls Join one another, and the houses are o close together that canopy is some times stretched over the street, and so close that the flags which float from the windows on one side almost touch those from the other. Every window has Ha flag pole, and the poles Join almost like bean poles or stacked arms. Just now each pole has its flag, and these flags will keep the sun off the delegates as they walk . through. At night the Ouvldor is Illum inated by arches of Iron pipes, which run across from one side of the street to the other. The lights are of many' colors, and Just now they will be blazing. The People of Rio. This street is filled with people during the business hours of the day. The crowd Is mopt cosmopolitan. It consists of Ital- for generatlona is a pathetic thing a sacrifice to the high speed of modern de velopment. Sometimes Makes Trouble. The migratory house often produces trouble. A few years ago the Chicago Oreat Western railroad condemned and bought scores of dwellings in the south central part of the city to make way for switching yards, freight houxes, etc. All of these buildings that were fit. to be moved were hauldd away and disposed of on suitable vacant lots. They were ' re paired' and painted and rented readily. Some neighborhoods Into which they were introduced objected strongly to the new architecture and somewhat plain and ordi nary exteriors, but the objections were of no avail. The migratory house, if 60 per cent whole, haa a right to go anywhere ao long as ground Is ready to receive It. Clearing routes for the boulevards and parks, too, has added to the ranks of the migratory dwelling. In carrying out the plana for finding routes best suited because of natural conditions, the Park board has condemned many a comfortable home, pay ing good prloe, of course, for the demoli tion. New sites were found and the aid of the house mover enlisted. Only a few months ago aeveral buildings were taken away from Thirty-third and Cuming streets to enlarge Bnmls park. Houses removed from this cause usually do not travel far. They are placed on nearby lots and ordinarily serve out their careers. In all their pristine strength snd glory of original Intention.' Metamorphoals of Churches. So far only the frame house has been spoken of. Tbe orlck or stone building defies carting around in so high-handed a manner. It Is moved, too, nevertheless. Only a -few years a,o the bricks from an old Cathollo church in the retail district, torn down to make way jr a department store, were need In a dancing academy. A more appropriate occupation waa found for the stone of the old Young Men's Christian association structure, which will go In -the ensemble to make Ui the new Wise Memorial hospital. Not a few of the im posing sew downtown buildings of the last few yeara contain aalvage material from structures torn down In the"' march of progress, and at least one fine new residence waa constructed this way. The tide Of unreat doea not atop with dwelllnga and once business places. Churches, too, are caught In the awlft movementa, and a task of this sort has Just been completed. It was the moving of an old frame church structure, built by the Baptists, at Thirty-fifth and Farnam streets, down to Twenty-ninth 2nd Far nam, where It was overhauled, the ec clesiastical features cut out and made over Into, several store rooms. The work waa hatdlly done and the structure saved from the disuse Into which it had fallen of late rears. ' ; .7 i Inns, Portuguese, Spaniards, German French, English, Americans and Brazil- Ions. There are many fine looking people and among the striking characters to us are the welt dressed colored people. Brazil has a large negro population, and the races have mixed much more In that country than In ours. There seems to be no preju dice against the negro there; and, at the hotel tables and In the dining rooms of the steamers the black and the white alt down together. The same family mny con tain both blacks and whites, and one sees every shade of brown and yellow In the complexions of the passersby aa he walks through the streets. There are many col ored people of note. When I was at Rio some years ago one of the principal editors was as black as my boots, and I met at a reception given by the American min ister a Catholic bishop of Intelligence and culture whore skin was a chocolate brown. In the Draslllan stores. The American Vlelegates will bring pres ents home for their friends, and I doubt not Mrs. and Miss Root, and the other American women of the party will spend considerable time shopping in the Ouvldor. They will plei.ty to buy. The Brazll iana are fond of Jewelry, and Rio la said to be one of the best diamond markets of the world. Most of their stones come from South Africa, although the mines near Bahal are still producing fine dia monds. Among the purchases usually made by foreigners are humming birds set as Jewelry. About Rio there are many such birds of the most brilliant plumage, some of which are no bigger than the first Joint of your thumb and some hardly a big as one's little finger. There are also egrets and numerous beetles of iridescent hues. One can buy beetles by the pint, of such a kind that one set In gold forma a beautiful scarfpln or earring. A queer thing about shopping In Rio I the price mark. Silks sometimes sell for 10.000 reis and cotton at 2,000 rels or so per yara. The sums seem enormous uhtll one learns that a thousand rels are worth but a few cents of our money, and that several thousand go for a dollar. During my stay In Rio I once took some gold coin to the bank and ot a million and a quarter rles In exchange. This seems extravagant until you know that It then took Just that many rles to equal $200. Scenes In the Markets. Rio de Janeiro lives well, and Its markets form one of the sights of the city. Many of the vegetables are brought from Spain, notwithstanding the soli of Brazil will raise almost everything. Among the most Important of such Imports are garlic and onions. . The onions are braided together In strings and sold by peddlers, who go from house to house, the strings being thrown over their shoulders. Fruit is Im ported from Portugal and other countries of Europe, and apples are brought In from New England. A good, sound American apple often sells for 10 cents, and one can get a half dozen fine oranges for less. Meat Is sold as soon as It Is killed. Very little la kept in cold atorage, and In moat mar-, kets the price declines from daylight to dark. In the morning It may bring IS cents a pound, but along toward 4 o'clock It can he bought for 7 or 8 cents. The reason Is that the hot weather may cause the meat to spoil and the health officials wtll then direct that it be thrown away. Dried meat qften sells for more than fresh meat. This Is especially so of Jerked beef, which Is a favorite food of all classes, and which Is brought by the ship load front the Argentine and Paraguay to Rio de Ja neiro. This meat has a strong smell and Is very salty; It Is largely used for stewet Another high-priced meat is fat pork, which is used for cooking with beans. , Americana I a Brasll. Secretary Root will And a number of Americana In Brazil, and also that tbe United States Is doing considerable bual neas with that great South American re public. We have large exporting houses at Rio and Santos, whose chief business It la to ship coffee to the United 8tates. Brazil la the greatest coffee country In the world nd Uncle Sam Is its principal customer. We drink more coffee than any other peo ple. In 1891 we consumed almost 1,000.000,000 pounds, four-fifths of which came from Brazil. We .bought 800,000,000 pounds of her in 1906, and paid more than 104,000,000 for It. All our great coffee companies have connections with Rio and Santos, and many of them prepare their coffee at those ports for the American market. There Is altio a lot of American money In vested In railroads and electric plants in Rin de Janeiro and Sao Paulo. The botani cal garden car line of Rio was built by an American named Greenough, and Ameri cans built the first street car lines in Ma naos, and. I think, alxo In Tara.' Ameri cans are Interested In Sao Paulo and Its electrto plants. An American College. Brazil has a force of American missiona ries and quite a number i f American school teachers. One of the best female colli ges In all South America is situated in Pe tropolls, not far from where Socretary Root Is now stopping. The college buildings are palatial In character. The rooms have ceilings from fifteen to eighteen foet high, the kitchen is walled with porcelain tiles, and the bath room has a marble swim ming pool, with shower baths adjoining. The school rooms are equipped with Ameri can desks and the best of our modern maps and instruments; and, on the whole, the college ranks In Brazil somewhat as Vassar dors In this country. This school la under the charge of the women of the American Methodist church, who each pay 10 cents a week toward It. Ita teachera are Ameri cana, and the students are young ladles from tbe best Brazilian families through ut the republlo. JTKANK Q.' CARFEXTZR. .'