omma
u V
1M
Thslfewesi G Air is
ffzve Zlboty Sleeves
ALL the old Idea of mnnnlshness
connected with outing fashions
hue disappeared and In lte steud
have come out the moat feminine
affaire In the world shirtwaists with
sleeves cut off at the elbow, turned back
In deep cuffs, and soft, separate collars
that roll away from the throat and
inuke the neck of a plain shirtwaist Into
a comfortable, picturesque thing that Is
charming. Yet with all their new femi
ninity, they are Invested with the quality
which the sterner sex finds It so hard
to grant our fashions that of prac
ticability. For the most part, outing fashions re
solve themselves into two classes coat
suits of serge and linen, and shirtwaist
suits, which usually have skirt and
shirt as carefully matched In material
und character us are the Jacket and
skirt of the coat suits.
In obedience to some unwritten lnw,
shirtwaist suits for uthletlc purposes
are ull-whlte; the few tluit show collar
and cuffs of a contrasting color are
looked at askance by the majority of
women.
Stunning suits of sergo come cont
suits, the Jacket made loose and cut
about to hip length, the skirt escaping
the ground by u good three Inches.
W hite seine Is first favorite, although
white, striped with black and finished
with black buttons and perhaps black
collar and culls. Is proving popular and
Is a lot more serviceable All of them
if mudu with the regulation coat
sleeve, totig. of course, and most of
them have the pntch pockets so con
venient for handkerchief and purse
when you need both hands lor golf
in ks or tennis ruciiuet.
Khaki Is splendid for outing suits, and
new shade of linen, deeper thun khaki
and not quite so yellow. Is the newest
color of all for either outing 'r walking
suits.
And lately Boine one has discovered
that white Jean makes Interesting and
Seivteeuble su.ts.
'' lie new short skirts, ot linen and lin
ens and the "Indiunhcad," or butchers'
cotton winch creases even less than
linen, aim oomcs ill almost as many
guides, with a very muierlul difference
In cost, are par'.tculurly attractive.
Borne of them nre plain, except for the
stitched bands about the hem; and there
re apparently countless variations of
pleated skirts the most sutislactory
models of all tor short ikirts and tiig
looklng ones, made In three sections,
the top one fitted closely rmiut the hips,
as every skirt must be this year, the
oiher two cut on circular lines, which
give the skirt the necessurv sweep.
With the adapting of stiff, mannish
collars for -hirtwaistn to French Ideus,
embroidery and tiny gniiered rutlles and
an utter' absence of stiffening marking
the radical change that it is. have come
out collars to wear for athletic pur
poses wide, soft things, more like the
broad, rolling collais children wear than
anything else, but made of embroidery.
Pretty Covering Bag for Clothes
SOME girl with a love of pretty
things hit upon the clever Idea of
inuxiog the. great bugs and slips,
with which she covered her bet bib and
..ers, ot tiowtred stuffs Instead of I he
usual plain white muslin affairs. The
open door of that closet reveal a pretty
MKlit, Instead of a lather funereal e'teel
the muslin shroudings are bound to give.
Choosing a closely woven miitert.il so
that the dust is as safely defied as
when a stout muslin Is the shield Is the
only point that need be looked lo.
Have some of the covers big, sheet
like affairs there are certain gowns
wnlch . u In belter condition if some
thing Is folded carefully about them
Hum if they are supped into the room
iest of bags
nd put loops uion bags or wrapping
sheet, so thnt their weight, litlle us it
may set in. will bear directly i:pun the
Closet hooks. Instead of adding lis mite
to dragging the delicate skirt or blouse
out of shape.
That Darning Ball
APAKTI-COLOKED darning ball re
lieves the eye-strain of the work
sn J a ball of some strong, detinue color
dots clniust as well), making the
Stitches stand out distinctly against the
contrasting background.
Of course, Willi the p rtl-colored ball,
the light bide Is turned ;i for a darh
upaii a dark stocking, toe ourk side for
wliite or tun ones.
For silk stockings, and the new "chif
fon'' stockings, upon which ine mend
ing mum i.e done .u the exquisite fash
ion characteristic of our grandmothers,
the advantage of sharply coulraallug
ball Is even wore marked.
a
With z.
Tocket
or of embroidery and lace, perhaps
edged all the way round with a narrow
li in ot itt.ee and mounted upon a nurruw
Lund.
With them are 'orn lingerie ties, or
Windsor ties i. some bright silk, to
give a piquant touch of color to the
alt, Ah n.'h the belt, .lerhaps, echoes.
Hats may be stereotyped sailors, but
are ofietier of white felt, or of panama
In the boyish shapes, without a particle
of dressing In them, and wiic pull
down over the eyes and tuke on a pret
ty abundon of curving lines.
Shoes of white canvas not the dod
ular pumps, but low shoes which tie
Mrinly on the foot, bo that there's no
working loose at critical moments
are most popular of all, now that a
couple of years have convinced most
of us that white shoes can be kept
clean with comparatively little trou
ble and plenty of pipeclay.
A Darning Help
T
pUY filling up a bis hole with a
oil ot coarse net when you are
darntnir the storking , v. ..
Young Hopeful of the family, who
goes through stockings with a superb
dlsrenard of the wearisome stitches
somebody else has to take In Conse
quence of his carelessness.
Then darn back and forth, taking
your stitches in and out of the net.
yet darning; as closely as you do ordi
narily. He'll have trouble to wear that darn
out!
Flower Baskets of Glass
P LOW KK vases have taken on a new
' form In the shape o. an exquisite
(and delightfully Inexpensive) basket of
uidesceiit glass. Handle and all are of
tile glass, ihe rim of the basket flat
tened out to support the heavy heads.
of llowers.
For short-stemmed flowers the basket
Is parti, ulurly satisfactory.
r rench Mower baskets. woven of
straw in the rough way tha. is so ar
tistic, have glass receptacU concealed
inside to hold water tor flowers. The
combination of blossoms and the dull
maw is most effective.
Asking for an Invitation
IF YOU have been asked to a wed
ding, and an unexpected guest ar
rivs a day or two before. It is per
fectly goou taste to call on the family
of the bride and ask for permission to
bring her along.
But it would he the worst taste In
the world to allow your friend lo send
a gift. The sending of a gift Is the
token of friendship, and should be
kn fined lo friend.
tmit '
But fascinating tan outing shoes
come low or high the sole made of
hard rubber; and -vhen hlgu, the top
made to act as a sort of brace to the
ankles. And black ones, although less
popular than either white or tan.
come In as many styles as either.
For the women who find the usual
heelless outing shoe too great a
change -roin the usual heeled shoe,
come rubber-soled shoes, with the
spring heels built up enough higher
than they usually are to make the
change less of a t train upon the
ankles and leg muscles.
Uloves are either the chamois kinds,
which may be washed In soap and
water,' or the lisle or cotton or silk
and linen kinds, practically never kid
or suede. And white is worn nine
times out of ten, both the short
gloves and. with short-sleeved shirt
waists, in elbow length
Paper Table Covers for Fetes
O L'MMEU being the season fur
church festivals and fairs, a hint
as to table covering la timely.
For years it has been the custom for
different member of the committee
to supply the linen for the tables.
ISuw, us every one know, tins is nut
the pleasantest thing In Hi world to
do. one la loath to submit one s best
tableeh ths to the hard usage they are
sure to get at a fair, especially If it
is in berry season. On the other hand,
no one wants to donate a coarse or
old cloth, because the rest of the com
mittee will say In tender asides: "l
wonder why -hd tees such awful look
ing linen!"
Fortunately, It Is now becoming very
much "the thing" to have on the
tables at these fetes tablecloths of
white crinkled paper. Some of these
are really dainty and lovely with their
broad Moral borders and look very
pretty.
We have long used the paper nap
kins on such occasluns, and the table
cloth are quite as suitable.
Brushes for Cut-Glass Carvings
A SMALL paint brush, with
Blrnnif aillmlit lir-nut.a
long.
lnvai-
uable for dusting elaborate vases and
carvings. An oruinary urusn can t. by
any chance, get into the tiny crevices,
which the dust seems to delight In
choking up in an unsightly fashion.
By the same token, a, small stiff
brush Is splendid for keeping cul
glass cruets and water bottles in or
der. Scrub out the cuts and look u
the point where the handles are Join
ed to the cruet proper.
Both brushes not only make (he
work easier, but the results of that
work, are far more satisfactory.
Making a Musicale
Memorable
THE closing soiree of her mualo
class Is always an Important
event In a child life, especially
If she la to play fur the first
time.
Such hours of diligent practice. Such
prinking beforehand to do honor to tha
festal occasion. Such intense excite
ment as one s name on the programme
la read for the first time. Such a thump
ing heart and flushed little face when at
last the Important moment arrives for
the "piece" to be played. Ah, the
triumph when, the wonderful feat ac
complished without one tiny note gone
wrong, one retires from the piano amid
rapturous applause of doting friends 1
Is there anything quite like tnose first
muslcaies of youth? We remember them
all our lives the more If our later years
do nut fulfil the promise of our intaut
prodigy day.
ny not make this occasion even
more a red letter day In memory by giv
ing the young performer a little glftT
It need not be expensive, this gift,
but U should be appropriate.
There are many things from which to
choose. A prettily framed portrait of
one of the great composers to hang
in a child'a own room la sure to be liked.
Then there Is a large scrap book. In
which has been pasted aniall prints of
the greatest musicians ot the ages.
Kach of these pictures should be given
a page or two where the little Btudent
may paste anecdotes, criticisms or
biographies, with possibly other pic
tures pertaining to the composer, his
home and family.
Such a book will prove Invaluable,
both for reference and as training In
the literary aide of music. Its advan
tage has become so manifest that
many of the best instructors now have
their pupils keep a sorap book as part
of the regular course.
Delightful biographies of musicians,
histories of different musical epochs
and sohools, studies of the operas, ora
torios, symphonies and church music,
stories of the folksongs of many
lands, musical encyclopedias, diction
aries and magaxlnes now abound. A
pretty bound volume of one ot these
will not merely please your little
daughter or son, but will serve as a
starter for a musical library.
livery serious student of music feels
the need of suoh a collection, as, for
some strange and unknown reason,
many public libraries otherwise well
equipped are lamentably lacking in
musical reference books.
Or a volume of well-chosen selections
to be played, graded to give the little
student an Incentive to hard practice,
makes a nice gift.
A music roll, also. Is acceptable. Be
very careful In choosing this latter, for
Just now there Is a marked fashion In
music bugs, and woo betide the mother
who buy one that Is not like the other
girls'. The roll most In favor l one
made of flexible leather, black, dark blue
or tan with either flat handle at the
back like those on the big purses that
are carried over the fingers, or double
handles at the top Ilka an old-fashioned
reticule. The prime essential Is, how
ever that when open It lie perfectly
flat, so that tha music 1 not creased
or bent.
If one can afford It, a very nlc gift
la a metronome. Time Is a weak point
to many children, and thi little Instru
ment doe much to teach a steady beat.
Much more expensive, but a great
boon to parents as well as child, would
be a gift of a clavier. A fine technique
may thus be acquired without racked
nerves for the unmusical members of
the family to whom the Incessant sound
of a piuno, giving forth finger exercises
and scales, Is positive torture.
Try this musical gift-making at this
June's soiree, and see if both you and
your little musician are not so pleased
that It will become a habit which will
last through the ten or twelve years
usually devoted to a girl s or boy's mu
sical education.
Mourning Starch
a- HE wearing of mourning In sum
mer Is something of a problem to
those women who do nut consider
that all-while is us deep weeds
as ei rue.
Black, at the best. Is warm, and many
women feel they cannot weur the sheer
eolton goods now seen because it turns
rusty, and will not launder.
This Idea is quite erroneous. Black
cotton will wash In the washtub, and
come out Just as good as new If one
' knows how.
One woman who wore her black sum
mer gowns several seasons I knew It
by the cut always kept them such a
clear shiny black, looking, Indeed, like
new, that I finally asked her the secret
"'"It Is my laundress, my dear. She
simply Is a wonder at doing up black
cotton poods. But. then, she Is one of
the really old-fashioned Southern dark
les, who does everything well.
I should say she was, I "plied.
Do you think s.ie would be willing to
tell us how she does It?"
-I'm cure she would, but I 11 find
out.
In
few days 1 received these ex-
. ,i trr oioahlnff tllack
fHICll uireeiiouo -" c
awns, calico or linen, which proved so
pllclt
satisfactory mui i in pa mc.
Uissolve a heaping tablespoonful of
black starch in two tablespoons of luke
warm water. It does not dissolve eas
ily and requires stirring all the time.
Then pour a quart of boiling water over
It. stirring constantly until It get per
fectly clear, but do not let It boll.
"Wash the dress in a little soapsuds,
Just warm. Rinse It In two buckets of
cold water, with one teacup of vinegar
and a handful of alt. Dry the dress,
and then pour the black starch over It.
Let the dress get a little bit dry, then
roll It up, without sprinkling, and Iron
upon the wrong, or un ler side, over a
black cotton cloth. Two yards of black
print Is suitable for the cloth. Iron
after rolling up. If done properly, tho
dresses look as if (hey were new."
Protecting Sunimei Quilts
THAT deep band of color used to
edge the coverings of down
quilts, ur tiie light weight cotton-filled
ones so satisfactory for
summer weather, is there for a pur
pose quite aside from that of beauty
or effectiveness.
It is always the edges that show soil
first, and it was to protect them that
Ihe bauds of solid color, usually much
darker In tone than the material of
the quilt. Were first used.
If your summer quills haven't these
bands, they are easily applied and as
easily ripped off and fresh ones sub
stituted when they finally succumb to
soil. Only, choose a material (hut Is
closely enough woven, so (hat thu de
sign of the foundullun may tiot show
turough.
Wringing Clothes
(a OOI) laundresse make a point of
careful wringing, squeezing tha
last drop of water oul of each
piece us (hey take It from the soapy
water, ami axain after they have thor
oughly rinsed It.
You cannot get the clothes a good
color, they say, unless this point of
wnuaUu- out thoroughly 1 look J to.
fIRST WO VOBXBNTS
-S nn if W
& yWrl9 x -, 4H ss p:1' tlf-1
SUMMER
T
M) UK cool in our hot summers one
must cut absolutely loose from
heavy draperies in a house. Cur
tains and portieres that In win
ter are the perfection of elegance, lit
the first hot day seem oppressive and
out of place. Even silk hangings, though,
of course, better than tapestries or
wools, do not give an Impression of cool
ness, however littls air they shut out
But some vile usks: "Would you have
us lurn our homes into pgly barracks In
ummer? Are no draperies permissible?"
That is entirely a mailer of individu
al preference. Personally, I contess to
a liking for absolutely curtalnless win
dows and doors that la, extia curtains.
Of course one must have shades lo shut
out the slare. 1 do not want to lose the
tiniest xephyr of the all too scarce sum
mer breeze, nor do I cure for unneces
sary dust catchers to make extra work
for servants.
Slany housekeepers, however, feel dif
ferently. It behoove those who, defying
the temperature, will have hangings lo
select the lightest and airiest ones pos
sible. 'the question of curtains la easily dis
posed of. There are numerous light,
dainty fabrics which are suitable, most
of which have been recently discussed
'n this section. Fo! litres are more dif
ficult to select,
Frobably the first choice, especially
for the country house, ure the trans
parent, beaded hangings, su popular in
tropical countries. These have been
steadily growing in favor in Ameriiu in
recent years, and this season are pret
tier and, belter yet, cheaper than ever
before.
.in entire novelty in ihls style of por
tleie are those made of wood shavings
strung so us to resemble chenille, only
much lighter In uppeurunce. They come
iu rich 1'erslan colorings. In block pat
tern of green and ted, or in gay floral
designs.
Their chief objection Is thnt they ure
rather bad dust collectors, though it is
possible to keep them in fairly good con
dition by vigoious shaking.
'1 hen there are ihe portieiea of pressed
rice paste, shaped, dyed and strung on
heavy silk. 1'ui ticularly li'ht and uiiy
is this portiere, with lis indistinct tloial
bouquets on delicate blue, ell und
green buckground. It is considcieo veiy
duiahle, though occasionally suppliug
a mouse with supper or breakfast.
Tie all-bamboo huniiins, strim," In
different geometric design in yellow,
green purplish blue und gurnet, are
F(yllsn and effective at a very moderate
cost. They are H"iueluit diltlrult to
keep -lean, as they shrink when water
touches them.
'h SMjOW
J0WQ) Piece of
CURTAINS AND PORTIERES
By fur the most lusting and servicea
ble of all these Oriental portieres ure
those made of glass beads. They come
In exquisite colorings, which, in the sun,
or under urtlllclnl llaht. glisten cliuriu
1'igly. They are mado with combinations
of I he several inch-long bugle beads and
very tiny necklace beads.
Oi'e lovely portiere was strung In such
a way as to have a background of dull,
pinkish red with a convent ionulized pat
tern in while and greea thrown in bold
relief. Another was an artistic blending
of turquoise blue, amber, while and
green.
Besides their beauty these glass por
tieres have the decided udvuntuKo of
washing well. At the close of a season
they may be taken down, scrubbed in
water and washing sodi. , ami come out
the next year as glistening us evt r.
For those wiio do not cure for tha
strung portiere there are thin silk cur
tains In fcreen, rose or guld, banded In
heavy yellow cords, or those of red and
green hcovy mercerized cotton, with a
deep border In Arabesque figure done
In red, orange and black. These are
hlefly suitable for doors leading from
n den or library, as they are a little
WELL-BRED BREAD EATING
IN THE.OUY we -ay externals should
not count they are but the husks
thut hide the real man within; In
fact, nothing la the. world counts
so much.
our nearest and dearest may know
our real worth. The stranger knows
but what ho sees, und Judges accord
ingly. In nothing Is this more true than In
table manners. A man may be a
statesman, a scholar, a poet In heart
and life, but let him eat with his
knife, suck his soup ur tuke his coffee
from the saucer and ull his brains will
not save '.lis breeding from unkind
criticism.
Fortunately, these flagrant breaches
of table etiquette are not so common
us formerly. There is one tiling,
iiioukIi. In which even dainty und
wcil-ored peopli men and women
alike are surprisingly careless. This
is the way they eat bread.
How frequent it is to see a large
and generous slice of bread ull across
the loaf, niaylti held rampantly aloft
on the left palm, while I he right hand
inoroii!-iy spreads on butter or Jam
ud nauseam
Then that buttered slice, unbroken,
makes 1 ( - vn lo the mouth to be
robbed of a bite, only llaiiud by the
pms I'm
AlA HESE are the days In Fail when
one near nothing but art, art,
art on all sides. The puinlers
dlMCllSa t llPMIM.d fa Ullll Plll'tl
other each other and themselves from
late morning until lute Into the night.
If It Is Americans who talk, the nam
of Miss Father Hunt is apt to figure.
She Is ono of the surprises of tho "Old
Salon," or. more properly speaking, of
"The Rxposltlon of French Artists."
Coming ,'rom California last autumn.
Miss Hunt has been acting as secretary
of the "American Women's Club" In the
Hue de Chevreuse during the winter.
Some of the artists about the Quarter
knew that she was a newcomer, study
ing at Delacluses's. As she Is not much
given to talking about her work, every
body was surprised on entering Salle
VI to see two excellent portrults well
hung, signed by Ksther Hunt. Though
the young artist whs hopeful, she un
doubtedly shared this surprise herself.
They are only the first and second por
traits painted oy her, and rcro done en
tirely without criticism.
Miss Hunt t udied last year ut Chase a
life class In New York her only year
(if real study. Though she hud had some
Irregular criticism from Bond Fran
cisco before leaving her home In -.
Angeles, she might be said up to lust
year lo he self-taught.
Fnder uny conditions the portrait
rhow line, vigorous, f-fi-h spirit, with H
wonderfully strong quality of tone snl
color. When one remembers, however,
tho conditions under which they wer
painted, the work Is nothing short of re
markable. Chase's Influence Is most notlrenhlv
felt In the bold, direct technique and
Fimple rich color. But there Is nln
strong Individuality shown In the sim
plicity and sincerity with which tho
sublecls are treated. In a room tllle.l
with works by the best artists MU
Hunt's portraits stand out with dignity
and rich color effect. Tho snvillcr por
trait, of a girl In dark red. Is tha better
piece of work.
Being a great admirer of the Fnglls-h
school Miss Hunt hopes to spend sev
eral years In London before returning
to America.
heavy-looking' for summer.
Kxtremely popular lor portieres this
season are those In a large meshed reii
and green fish net, with conventionalized
border und scalloped edge. They ur
stylish and striking, rather than beaull-
Most satisfactory and very lovely for
slightly screening doors in summer urs
the curtulns of crepe miiras, so culled
because they have a crepy weave and
are heavier and more durable than lh
ordinary madras.
The backgrounds of soft drabs or
beige make an excellent undertone
for the soft Persian coloring of the de
signs. Many of them are direct cupie
of rure old Paisley shawls.
Probably nothing Is quite to lasting a
these curtains. Their colors are perfect
ly fubt, und they have been known lo
come out of the washtub as bright und
fresh as whe.i i.ew, alter nix or seven
years' wear in a sunny window.
The silk-striped nowfliik0 portlerr In
white and various colored str;et always
maintain an even pop ularity. If neither
novel nor particularly striking, they
have the merit of lending to a room an
air of dainty coolness.
unwillingness of ths eater to choke
himself.
One charming and cultured man.
whose scintillating wit makes him a
welcome after-dinner guest la muny a
fashionable home. Invariably holds in
bicud iu a deeply Uollowed palm a
if lie feared the slice would get away
wliile with the other ho spreads uii
butler with ull the energy und uliuol
the motion with wlncu ho won. J
grt asu u rusty cog wheel or hot boA
Mne out of ten people omit to bre.iK
their blend into bits just laigeenoui
to be disposed of at one mouthful.
Ninety-nine c ut of u bundl ed of tlnne
who remember that breaking bread
tot biting It, is good uiuiiiieis, M.I...J
their tiny bits in thu uir instead of
on the side of their plutu.
Triiles, you say?
Yes, but tritles that count. Thoy
muke Just the dilference between guoj
hr edihK and no breeding.
Mothers and governesses cannot ho
(oo punctilious In their liisisience
upon good (aide manners In the child.
They may be acquired later In life; hut
loo often little niceties, such as Ihe
pioper and Improper way to eat bread,
are never wholly leajueil If left UiiLli
that later Uui.