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Lt, the
rettlest and costlleet of
the FrA-nch blouses have tha
trlmml
nf th front repeated.
In a
Smaller form, of court.
upon the bad
universal trh
in place, of tha almost
mliig of turka. or, at
with a littla lace Bet In.
moot, of tuck
Laet year the embroidery of the up
per part of tike sleeves waa one of tha
leaturei of tha prettiest
ai If there couldn't he
enough embroidery lavished on a single
blouse, the ny treatment of tho backs
this year provides one mure place for It
without giving- up any of those It al
leady haa. I
The prettiest treatment of all Is
when tha ower design of tha front
spreads upj In little sprays which out
line the ii 'ck, and blossom out In a
profusion 'f llowers on the back.
Homellme the tiny motif which la In
tended fur oiler (and perhaps for cuffs)
Is applied, lia.lt in and half out of tiny
panels forced hy narrow lace, which
runs fronv'the siioulders down about a
third of t-lie way to tha walet and back
again, t corners of tha llllla oblong
neatly inltred.
Willi ' mum blouses opening, As they
do, tin' the buck, the design la neces
sarily i kept very small and reversed
fur lite other side, or the Involved
combination of lace and embroidery
Insertion describing deep points and
circle, and the embrolaery winding
in arid out at Ita own sweet will,
whlclli trims the front may ba re
peated in a more ahallow way upon
tnc back, the whole thing spaced care
tally so that the middle of the point
marks the dividing Una down the
buck!, where the blouse fastens.
Occasionally, when the design Is a
grift (lower chrysanthemums done In
ti.Jr pretty Hut Jupanese (million, or
IhEse odd conventionalized blossoms,
w filch might be anything from tiger
lilies to daisies a single blossom Is
eel on eacli side of the buck, high on
each shoulder, the stem of the flower
starting either ut the shoulder Beam
or coining out from the sleeve seuni,
' or omitted entirely. In a cu.ua like this
the motif Is inude far more ettective
by being outlined with lace, and
squares are mure liked this year than
elides,
When the blouse Is made, as some
exquisite ones are, with a yoke of
embroidery edged with the small,
stereotyped scallop characteristic of
1- rem li work, the yoke either runs all
the way around, cut In a alngle piece,
or la inuJe in two pieces, Joined by
beading upon the shoulders, the yoke
in the back more shallow, of course,
than the one In front.
Under the yoke both front and back
II. blouse In set, tiny tucks, set as
close together as possible, running
(1'iwil a couple of inches below the
joke and giving tha blouse a pretty
fulness. If too much -T .ess is the re
.i ilt if the tucks, the .excess may be
tared iiwa-r t thounder-unn "leant and
It, ere disposed of.
However It la worked out, this treat
ment of making the trimming of tha
bucks a feature la this year's hallmark
u i h ii blouses. Uui your last year's ones
may be guile simply brought up to dm
it you trace oft the prettiest part of the
dri(:n of the front and work It upon
tbe t nek. Even if your aleeves are long.
It med make no difference, fur Pari Is
tiroiulKlne long sleeves again at no very
tui distant date.
Keeping Shoes Well
Groomed
ATO WELL-DRESSED woman Is
I XI ever careless about the ap
I iiearance of her shoes. This, at
least. In theory, for oddly
enough many a woman who is other
wine perfectly groomed wears foot-
r.nr that la disgracefully ahabby and
il-kept.
Mrunge to aay, It Is those who can
lea.-.t aitord to buy new pairs who are
tuost neglectful to preserve the life
oi their old ones.
Nor Is tills hard to explain. Tha
wrulthy woman has enough shoes to
change them frequently and occa
sional rests are as healthy for shoes
ax for their wearers. Then she is
will supplied with trees, which are
put into use the instant one pair of
lioes Is exchanged for another than
ii ch habit there Is no greater pre
eivutlve to both shape and leather
-i..ieover. she can probably control
tii.- aervlces of a muid who sues to
It that her mistress' shoes are kept
constantly dusted and blackened, with
a fcliarp eye for stray buttons, rents
or run-down heels.
Hut for the woman In moderate cir
cumstances to keep her shoes In good
condition requires work, and plenty of
Now that there are bootblacklng es
tablishments especially for women In
connection with many stores, tha
firobiein of blacking Is not so hope
ess as formerly. However, there are
many times when these are not ac
cessible, and the average woman
would do well to Invest In one of the
adjustable patent ahoeholders that
may be fastened to the wall. Tills will
jiove a strong Incentive to shiny,
iia-hly polished leather, as Well as do
away with risks of apoplexy to the
stout amateur bootblack, who stoops
not easily.
Most women are over-generous with
tlu-lr pastes and blackings in polishing
tta lr own shoes, and under-geiierous In
ine matltr of thut vulgarism, "elbow
giease." Ulack shoes, when not too
lui gone In shabbiuess, can be kept In
g.,od condition (or a week after a tho
rough poliHhinu, by being given dully a
good robbing with a hv.11 cloth or brush.
A uselul homemade bootbrush can
tie Improvised from a piece of carpel
bulled to a piece of board.
All excellent renovator (or black shoes
may be mude from the yolk of an egg,
one ounce of castor oil. one dram of tur
pentine, two drams of gum arable and
tliuw ounces of black Ink.
Strange us It seems, the white and
likht-cuiored shoes are not the senseless
luxuries they may seem to the Woman
who is unaware of their cleaning quali
ties i he new calfskins in grays, lavender
blue and other light colors are kept in
peitect condition by a mixture one-huif
milk and one half water. This should
be applied vslih a tpoiige or suit rag.
Wash oft all soil thoroughly and allow
tbe shoe to dry. Be carelul nut to soak
tt in the liquid.
'In results are much better If all
light shoes are cleaned on tieea, which
aie allowed to teiiialn ill them until the.
leather la thoroughly dry.
In freshening white shoes, either ran
vu or buckskin, differ. -nt preparations
of pipeclay aie Invaluable. The yellow
tuts that comes with this cleaning la
bdually caused by using too much of
tlie preparation, which leaves a thick,
tukey deposit. Alwsys set the shoes lu
the sun to bleach while they dry.
Kusset shoes. when the oidinary
poiislns are not available, can be given
a due shine by rubbing with the Inside
of a banuna skin and polishing off witu
a soft cloth, if tan or roiset slu.es ate
rollshcd befoie being woru the (list
Ime, they will not spot.
If ono cannot afford to own several
pairs ot trees, shoes, especially patent
leathers, should tie kept stuffed auli
tissue paper or soft muslin, to prevent
cracking or wearing luto uus.guily
raaaea.
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PAPER HANDKERCHIEFS
T
--HE devotion of the people ot
japan in iiys""";
shown In no way more clearly
than in their customs In regard
to handkerchiefs. , , ,
Tne eiuboiule linen, lace and embroid
ered handkerchle(a of taslern peoplea
would be regarded by the Japanese as
unhealthy and unsulluble. In fact,
they are rarely carried even by the
more progremlve of the younger genera
tion who have 'adopted Western dress.
"Are the Japanese so uncivil. led as
not ever to us haudkeichiefs?" some
one ask. . .
iiow the little Japs would smile at that
application of clvlllxatlou. They claim,
riot without wisdom, that a handker
chief once used a refined person or one
who undei stands the rules of health can
have no further need fur.
"Well, it Is not pleasant. Is acknowl
edged, "but how can one help It T luu
cannot be buidelied carrying aiound a
doaeii or niuie liandkei chiefs especially
now that pockets are a bygone luxuiy.
Hunk huw they would bulge ones sliut
Waiatl" U, you can. If thoae handkerchief
happen to be Japanese ones, which uie
nothing more nor less than very tine
paper, so soft In texture that they ai
aa pleasant as the sheerest linen.
A Japanese always carrlek slipped In
side the (old of hut kimono a doseii or
mure little pieces of white paper about
six inches squure, whlcn he uses but
once and then throws away.
"b)ul." says the skeptic, "what do
they do with themf It Is certainly not
hygienlo la throw them luto the
Streets."
frobably not on American streets,
but the Japanese keep theirs so scru
pulously clean that all debris la re-
moved Immediately.
This Idea of the paper handkerchief
has been widely adopted In thia coun
try In case of sickness, i'or consump
tives especially their use Is becoming
general, and they are aold by the
thousands to sanitarium, hcapltal.
sul even to private famine, where
there la a patient with tuberculosis.
i he hanukercliief s mude lu this
country are larger than those of the
Japanese (about the sUe of the linen
ones) and come in a hue crinkled tis
sue paper, entirely free frjm harsh
ness They cost but a tew Cents a
inif usaiul
The udv.itagea over the linen or
inusiin rag formerly advocated for
the use of tbe consumptive is mani
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Waving
Design.
fest. The paper handkerchiefs are
cheaper, more attractive in appear
ance, much mora easily carried
around and can be burned In a mo
ment, without any danger of clogging
a lire, aa ao often is tha case witu
heuvler niaterlula.
While tlie average Occidental, unless
he Is germ crazy, will hurclly forsake
the handkerchief of linen foi ordinary
use, certainly those of paper may be
strongly recommended from a sani
tary standpoint to tha man or woman
arillfted with a cold, lutluenxa. hay
fever or sole throat.
Stockings for Euchre
Prizes
1
T I1A8 become rattier "the thing"
this pas' winter to give stockn,s
fur euchre or binige puses. Certain
ly liotnliik' could make struiiaer uu-
peal to the average woman who revels
In the possession of sheer silk or Hula
thread atockings. especially when
tliey are a luxury beyond her own
pui se.
This season, when atocklngs are
mure distracting than ever, the host
ess should never be at a loss to get
a shuwy acceptable pi Ue.
Though resedas, emerald greens.
Allco blue, royal purple and lilac,
nysler gray or the lovely sliver)
Agiucourt will all be worn with sell
colored siioes, on the whole It Is safer
to stick to whites and blacks In mak
lift a choice.
This, however, should prove no dis
advantage, as both ere seen in Inllnltu
variety of sheer plainness, lace open
work or gay colored embroidery.
blockings are designed, by Hie way,
especial I j for use us prizes. They ai e
sheer lisle thread ill black or while, vwui
bilk embroidered clubs and openwork
hearts scattered over the surface.
l-.qusliy popular would be thusu witu
fine eyelet embroidery.
i houyn they can really only be call
ed stockings'- by courtesy and should
deliaht a KuelppUt, or that advocate
of bare feet, Isadora lKJtlcuh, lite cub
webi.y chitTch Mk stockings uro amaz
ingly In favor
Iteiiiciiil.er in purchasing such a
prize to have it exchangeable, as the
winner n.i,ut nut wear the cuostu
number.
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mm
Sleeves
&id 3a.ck
McLlck ik?
Troni
Solid Comfort in
Traveling
AH women begin to realise mora
and more the benefit, as well as
pleasure, ot short trips away
from home, week-end parlies at
country homes, or a frequent Sunday at
the seashore or mountains, have become
quite a usual way to pass tlie summer.
How in dlsposu of one's belonging
on these flying trips has always been
something i f a problem. To take a trunk
for a day's ,isit seems ridiculous. In
deed puts tha hostess to unnecessary
Inconvenience, yet In summer, especial
ly, one needs a plentiful supply of fresh
waists jind gowns.
The diess suit case, which has street
car propensities when It comee to pack
ing, would seem a happy solution of the
ditllculty, but for one thing Its extreme
Weight when tilled.
"Porteis can curry them," say your
Alas, porters, or the small boy, either,
have an unhappy faculty of absence at
the crucial moment, us most us have
discovered to our sorrow. Who has not
struggled ulung many a time under the
back-breaking loud ut a bulging dress
suit case, when she would willingly have
paid a small fortune fur an urchin to
lug It?
Hut It leather suit cases are un
healthily heavy for a woman, and trunk
too Inconvenient, must she then be
home-bound?
Not at all, since some Ingenious person
has thought of a wicker substitute.
"Oil, but wicker bugs are so cheap
looking! I'd be ushumed to carry one,"
says Madame i'inicky, which la pi oof
positive she never did carry one, or tho
comfort of it Would absolutely outweigh
apceraiices.
in point of fact, though, the modern
wicker aull case Is rather attractive
looking than otherwise, and, what is
moie, Tots become distinctively the fash
Ion. No one could possibly object to these
bags in point of looks, while the bliss to
a woman of being able to puck her bag
to its lull. t capacity, and then carry 11
Willi absolute ease for miles, if needs be,
makes tlie lucky owner of a wicker dress
suit case feel siie has a mission In ill
to proclaim Its virtues to her unforiu
hale sisters who have not yet learned
the blls ot being absolutely Independent
ot poller when bit for a few da)'
Jauul.
Colored Morning Dresses
HAVK a couple of morning dierses
lnaJe c.f Some dark or liult-durk
colored dimity or lawn or gingham,
l'retty lit lie dresses of pink and white
check, or nl tlie cool ligured grays and
dalk blues can be made (lightened up
with embioidery or lacei. which do won
ders In the way ot saving laundry woik.
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OBT women have to know
something of the cure ot a
muii's clothes, be he father,
husband nr brother i.ir man
himself, although he rates his ability
far above that of mere woman, quails
when it comes to handling u needle
or preeslng an obstinate pair of trou
sers thoroughly "kneed" so that tlie
bulging knees are made to shrink and
the trousers given that trig little
crease that makes them look next to
new.
Traditions are responsible for the
fact that everything done to a man's
clothes differs, though possibly only
a little, from the corresponding thing
done to a Woman's a fact tliut few
women take Into account at tlie start.
Tailors have spoiled the lords of cre
ation, no doubt; still tailors have sim
plified things, and their methods are
Worth copying.
Take that one troublesome detail
piessing trousers. Turn them In
side out and press nut ths way
you should to make that all-Important
crease com In just the rlghl place,
but the opposite way, pressing
through a muslin cloth, and dampen
ing again and again, until the steam
heat has shrunk the bulging cloth tlat
Again.
Then turn them right side out and
press again, folding them ao that the
crease runs perfectly true down front
and back (you can do thia best by
laying the seams at the aide together
at the hems and matching them all
the way along) and pressing through
a dampened piece ot muslin.
Never put the Iron next the cloth,
lmck and linen crash trousers are
washed and Ironed Just as anything
else is, the only care needed being to
aee that the dense Is in the right pFuce.
For cloth trousers come Ingenious
presses, upon which the trousers are
stretched and left to press themselves.
tiume still more Ingenious urrunge
niems are the result of home manufac
ture odd connivances which open out
to make room for coat, vest ami trous
ers (euch to be properly set upon Its
hanger), and close to keep them In per
fect trim. ,
Cloth that has grown shlnv may be
treated In several ways sponging with
ammonia, diluted, of course, with water;
or by rubbing, carefully and lightly,
with li bit of emery paper, or by steam-lng-puslng
a hot Iron, over which a
wet cloth Is laid, close to (though not
touching) the surface.
Kvery little while nockets should ba
emptied and thoroughly brushed out
It's astonishing how they manage to
collect dust, uctual rolls of it. While
they are turned Inside out la a good
time to look for holes and to mend
them, too!
To sew buttons on tailor fashion the
thread must pass througu Die cloth
and the canvas which lines It. but not
through the thickness of cloth facing It.
To do this, pull the faring out, away
from the canvas, and take the stitches
throuKh the canvas and out again upon
the upper surface, passing tlie needlo
through the eye of the butcon as a
separate stitch. 1'luce u pin on top of
tlie button and let the stltclies pass
over that, then pull the pin out and
wrap the thread uround the stitches be
tween button uml cloth.
Tear are best sent to a tailor to
mend, but, If they must be done at
home, try raveling a thread from a
hem or raw edge somewhere and darn
with that, or with hair, which makes
the mor perfect durn. Then press
through a damn rag. and your tear
should have dlsunpeared.
(Spots of grease may be removed by
rubbing French chalk Well Into them
li much a will slick on letting It
st.tnd tor a day. then brushing out
thoroughly, repeating the whole process
unless the spot Is entirely gone Spong
ing with equal part of alcohol and
ether will remove most other spots
If he'a an extravagant tnortul who
c.l.l. ct to v. ear In if durned stockings, try
darning them with darning silk. In
stead of the more usual Cotton The
darn la softer and much less notice
able. Kxtra collar bands coma to replace
those which have been maltreated In
laundering until the edge resembles a
finely ground suw. Kip the old bond
oft carefully, soaking every bit of
starch out first, to make tho process of
ripping eusler. and stitch the new band
In place. Collars (if they are attaclieiii
of neglige shlrta may he turned when
they wear shabby on the right side
I'nderi lothes should be well looked In
In the niutter of buttons nn.l tapis re
placed uni thin places lightly darned
there's nothing else which so adequate-
PORCH TABLE COVERS
XT OWAIIAI3 no one sits In the
i house In summer with half an
y OWAUAY3 no
- " opportunity to slay outside.
Women practically live on their porches,
and in consequence those poi.ii.s must
be mude aa habitable uu possible.
Kasy chuirs there must be, with an
occasional table to hold books, work
basket and a vase of flowers.
The coverings (or these outdoor tables
have a charm ull their own. The dainty
affairs of linen and lace, which must
be kept Immaculately white, are. of
course, quite impracticable (or a porch,
and must be relegated to the li iig
room or bedroom of the summer home,
while something that will not soil, yet Is
sbowv uml dainty, Is chosen.
A really lovely table cover may be
made of a square of crcum-coinred cau
vas or cotton etamlne, with an eight or
ten Inch bolder of gay-colore.i Doweled
cretonne. Or a central squaie In rich,
dark Kgytlau designs bs a plain bolder
lu some harmonizing shade.
Another cover somewhat daintier
this may be made of inexpensive
pink ticking, with larg roses cut
(ruin cretonne and appliqued around
.aa water edge for an iiieguiua- border.
to
31
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TheDusi Thatlccumulales
27i Pockets
ly i loves the ld theory that stitch
In time saves nine.
These are the mnln things, but a
thousand and one little details come up
as u work the tip In a glove (whlcn
should be sewed with silk, unlike a
woman's glove, which Is better mended
Willi giovo cotton), tlie looking after
tie and belts and hni'.'.-.erchlefsull of
w hich may need a tltiii occasionally.
A tiny Liud wusii fcalloon can be
used in tl. is applique to give a little
mole character to the design.
A very Milking cover. Indeed, Is a
eqiiare oT the now Kugllsh lluwered
chintz in u conventionalized design of
brilliant rid apples lu dllteient shade
beeping from among green leave.-,.
This has no other lli.Tsli than a hal
low coiiou tailcla braid about two
inches wide.
Kven iiiuiu serviceable are the so
called thiead and thrum cot. is, woven
the sain.- as an olii-fahi,.ncd ml
rarpi-1. These stand hard wear uml
an be thrown in thu wash Willi per
fect safety.
Ivluully washable, and rusting in
most nothing, are table enters mude
of unt.leucbe.l muslin with ii broad
border of g.iy Hct.il plaid ginitham,
navy blue chambia), or even of vivid
turkey red.
Any of these little accessorii s make
a porch wonilerf ully hoine-liko uu-l
attiuctive. yet uie so cbeip, ciaily
made and launder kii well that the
most careful housewife need not h.ivo
tli, in uu her mind whin the dust
blows, or rains descend, or pilferer
coma nigh.
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Flower Combinations
Not Injurious
N'
'OT long ago It was stated in sev
eral papers, on the authority of
a well-known florist, that roses
and mignonette hud such a bad
effect on one another that when com
bined In any tlorul piece they would wilt
In less than an hour; that, lu fact,
there were many flowers which posi
tively could not get along together.
To the great relief ot the many wom
en who think there can be no mora
beautiful urrungemeiit ot llowers than
great pink or white roses Interspersed
with the thick heads ot mignonette,
this Idea has been utterly exploded by
a noted llorist. whose experience during
a long life has made him a recog
nized uuthurity.
"There Is absolutely nothing In this
theory of llowers reuctlng on one an'
Other In certain combinations," ha Said.
"Ho fur a rose uud mignonette are
concerned, 1 have always used them to
gether lu my rarest decorations. It Is)
an arrangement ot which 1 am par
tlculuily fund.
"True, the forced foliage of mignon
ette will not last long when exposed
to the air; this may be the secret of
this untaxing theory. The llowers,
though, may b kept for weeks."
"How do you account," waa asked,
"for the following (act In regard to
white lilac? They were plucked at
the sauiu time from the same bush;
part were kept In a vase with some
doublo tulips, the rest alone, but ail
were In one room. The next morning
the lilacs combined with the tulips
were completely dead, while the
others were still fresh. lJoes not that
look as if there might be something
In the other I'oiist's Idea, after all?"
"No. indeed." was the reply. "It was
on odd coincidence, but probably the
one set of lilacs was lu a draught;
that Is sure to wilt them; or they may
have been cut from older wood uud
the water could not rlsu bo readily
through their stems. l'erliaps, too,
their stems were broken or spilt
across. One should always gather li
lacs with a straight, clean knife cut
across the stem, so aa not to clog.
Whatever the cause of the fading. It
was not the tulips. You may lake my
word for that.
"There me many flowers that do
lint keep In the ulr. Ulus-of-the-vul-lev,
(or Instance, w always wrap In
olied paper until they lire sent out.
In fact, almost all llowers, unless
burdy garden varieties, stay fre.-lt
1, Miner when not allowed to stand lu
a it i a ught.
"This combination idea Is without
foundation utter nonsense! For forty
years I've been putting every known
kind of Mower together, so I know."
A l'rotection to l'earl Ikntons
Till-: hlx 1'c.i 1 1 buttons which deco
rate the front of so many shut,
wnlst suits-both skirt ami walst-ai
ni.Ml.il K but Improved by being tr..u
ed to the vlgoiuu tubbing the dress Is
subject. .1 to.
limenn.us little devices huve been ill
vented f"i" uttuchuig the buttons de
vices which can be released so that the
buttons may be leinove.'. before each
washing. , . ,
W hen buttons are set on In pairs, it
Is often possible to fasten them to
gether bv a strong corn or by long
siitci' S of entl'.ii. but ti.nholed to make
thu connecting link strung.
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