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FOLLOWING th vogue of small
sleeves, which hav com In
through Empire Influences,
blouse sleeves are diminishing
dally In size and Increasing proportion
ally tn economy It Is always easy
to remodel when fashion allows things
to become smaller.
The new styles are fatal to thin
arms, for the pretty puffed top has Its
transparency accentuated by designs
executed In filmy lace, and, at present,
everything Is elbow length, although
we are promised long sleeves again
at no very far distant date. How
ever, It Is better to display a little
Independence rather than an ugly
forearm, and to wear a- long cuff at
tached to a puffed top that Is some;
what larger than the extreme of fash
Ion demands. A combination of long
cuff with the narrow puff (which la
perfectly good for an elbow sleeve)
makes up a badly proportioned sleeve.
To all unllned sleeves the little stay
ing tape Is not only a boon, but a
necessity. It Is usually arranged as .
shown In the sleeve which ends In a,
long cuff made up of rows of bias
bands and fagoting. This design Is
a very practical one, as the cuff may
be lengthened or shortened without
spoiling It, while Its graceful sim
plicity makes It appropriate for any
of the simple aorta of blouses.
For an elaborate blouse, nothing
cnuld be prettier than a sleeve like
the one pictured, in which Insertion la
mude to wind about Isolated motifs of
hand embroidery. The fluffy elbow
trimming Is formed entirely of In
sertion, Instead of the usual lace edge.
By adjusting tapes as Indicated let
ting them come from the top of the
arm all the way to the end of the
narrow puff, the sleeve may be worn
above or below the elbow as fancy
dictates.
A good arrangement of Irish cro
chet, or of any other heavy lace, la
also shown. Here a broad Insertion
holds the puffs on top, while a stay
Ing tape Is Invisibly tacked to the In
side. This sleeve waa designed for a
blouse made entirely of alternating
strips of lace and puffs of sort liberty
satin. E. D.
For Baby's Coach in
Summer
BABY In his coach always looks
charming, but never more so
than In summer under his
dainty coverings of pique or
much-befrllled lawn, his eyes shaded
by aoft laoe-hung parasols.
Needless to say, these white cover
ings must be always kept Immaculate,
and, therefore, In the selection of
them It Is well to choose those that
will launder easily.
There Is nothing more really satis
factory than pique for summer coach
covers. These may be absolutely plain,
simply finished with an embroidered
scallop, or. they may have a rather
elaborate pattern In eyelet embroid
ery and satin stitch. As a rule, a
separate piece la added to the top, put v
on In a French seam, to look as If
It had merely been turned down.
Frequently master baby sports his
monogram or initials, embroidered In
three or four Inch letters In the cen
tre of this turned-over flap.
Rome of the newer and more elab
orate pique covers have the turned
hack section shaped and edged with
a rutlle of the embroidery, while. In
the body of the cover lnaertlon, is set
In a simple design, reaching half way
to the bottom hem.
Verv dainty and fluffy are coverings
of white Persian lawn, with lace-edired
ruffles and tiny tucks and insertion. The
Insertion also outlines the under part
of the cover. This Is fastened to a
lining of pink or blue silk or satin,
while the pillow Is trimmed to match.
Sometimes the ruffle Is put on with a
beading, through which narrow ribbon,
a slightly deeper shad than the lin
ing, la run.
For davs when there Is a touch of
chill In the air a little white cashmere
blanket, bound In soft wash ribbon. Is
found very convenient either to use
alone or to slip under a lingerie cover.
Though English coaches, with lesther
'' tops, and easily run push carts have
rather forced In the background the
fluff parasol, baby la never more fas
cinating than when peeping from be
neath one. The tops of these parasols
must by all means be quickly remov
able, since soot and filth Improveth not
their looks. No more satisfactory style
can be found than a top of dotted
point d'esprlt. finished with a deep hem
with three or four Inch tucks sbove It.
This Is adjusted by a draw string, con-
cealed under a ribbon bow, to the white
or colored silk parasol beneath.
Dainty straps come for the summer
coach some In colored satin, hand
painted; others In white leather, with a
pattern embossed In gilt; still others,
more serviceable than these, of heavy
canvas piped In colored leather and em
broidered In a sample croas-stltch pat
tern. As baby la sure to be thirsty on Ms
summer walks, one of the new little
drinking cups, which come In tiny pink
or blue boxes of hand-painted celluloid,
J roves a useful as well aa a dainty ad
unct to his coach.
An Inartistic Room
Transformed
AN artistic atudlo was made the
other day of a most inartistic
room, which had doors and wood
work painted a dull, uninterest
ing brown.
The pklnt was scraped and sand-papered
off, and the woodwork stained
with green, snd afterwards varnished.
Burlap of a soft green formed the lower
covering of the walls, with a paler,
though no less soft green felt above It.
A high settee stood at one end of the
room, stained the same green, and piled
high with cushlona of every color under
the aun. On its high top, which turned
over like a little shelf, was set a bit of
French pottery, the soft dull brown
glased kind, and, flanking It. a vase of
irong mahogany color, which struck a
vivid yet restful note of color In the
room.
The pictures (they were very few)
were framed In narrow, plain black
frames, with plenty of mat to set thera
off, and furnish a little relief from the
ubiquitous green.
Near the window, yet far enough
away to be In no danger from draughts
(for a piano takes cold easily), was the
pin no. In a black case.
Hangings, as 'hey are usually known,
did nut txlHt, fur the studio was con
secrated to music and its owner Insisted
that hangings Interfere with "tone."
Only the two windows were curtained,
and thry with a coarse fishnet of au
itu tint that Hrmrii the on uvcessary
light ton. h In tlir room.
Kven those curtains, -he says, she Is
going to get rid of w hen she can have
the window panes turned into Ih fas
cinating leaded kind which are elo
quent of art and music and quaint old
time architecture.
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Mental
SOME on in a recent article In
quired, casually, why It was that,
with all the talk of massage and
osteopathy, no one had come for
ward with auggestlona for applying
these principles to the mind.
Somehow that idea of mental mas
sage la wonderfully appealing In these
daya, when concentration ia either ac
complished strenuously, with nerve
racking results, or else seems trying to
prove Itself a lost art.
In either caae. mental massage should
prove a benefit as an Influence toward
relaxation In the one instance, aa stim
ulation In the other.
How to get It? Many of us are aup
plied with It already, tn the shape of
some comfortable member of the fam
ily, who, by the magic gift of tact the
best quality a would-be mental mas
seuse tau have has a way of deftly
easing the strained muscles of the mind.
Take the times when the whole
world goes wrong apparently 1 and you
go to that person with your tale of woe,
believing yourself (aa the best of us
does at times) the most injured mortal
under the canopy of heaven.
Are your woes enlarged ujwn, or. most
aggravating of all. belittled? Not a bit
of It. First a ready sympathy drawa
your storv from you (that getting you
relaxed -I he nist step), then a different
point ol view may be suggested so sub
tly that you've half a mind you did it
yourself the masseuse is beginning her
work.
la a little while you are quite cheer
ful again.
Take Ih oppoalt case: When you
are disposed to let opportunity after
opportunity go by mental laslness
having Ita own way with you and
ruining your chances of big success.
Massage
Along comes some shock something
eminently disagreeable and startles,
stimulates you out of your com
placence. You take that trouble to your con
fidante, who manipulates you men
tally until. Instead of feeling mingled
resentment and depression, you are on
fire with ambition to "make good."
It's a pure caae of mental massage
but a vastly different treatment from
the other.
But the poor masseuse la tired out
from her work there's nothing that
takea it out of you like pouring your
vitality Into another person's body or
spirit. The chances are, too. that
she's entirely unappreciated, unlike
the woman who la paid for her serv
ices In body massage. Probably you
feel that you've done It all youraelf,
any way "she didn't do anything but
listen," you say half apologetically to
yourself, and dismiss her part of the
question without further thought.
But, probably, at some future date,
mental massage will he a recognised
factor, and the masseuse will come
to be appreciated and paid.
An Object Lesson
THERE'S a little English story going
the rounds w hlch la a tremendous
object lessuii to most of us homebodies:
An old Frenchman stepped into a
crowded car and a young girl sprang
up. urging hiiu. pleasautly, to take her
place. As he Sank into It. he said,
gratefully:
"Ah. mademoiselle. If you are so kind
to a stranger, must you be at
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Papering Downstairs in
a Country House
WHILE the bedrooms In a coun
' ry or suburban home must be
all cool, airy grace and unpre
tentlousness, costly though it
may be, for the first floor a totally dif
ferent treatment Is demanded; colorings
are strangers, effects more daring, sim
plicity less Insisted upon, whlio the
woodwork plays a more important part.
Even here, though, Is lacking the rich
elaborateness snd very evident elegance
that Is permissible In a farm house, for
the aim of the average owner of a
country place is to have it unobtru
sively charming In keeping with the
simpler life of summer.
The papering of downstairs rooms de
pends largely upon the style of the
architecture. Small cottages, with but
a single living room, as a rule have It
hung with gay chintx or flowered pat
terns to give a cheerful, homelike touch,
while houses with a hall and suite ot
living room, library and dining room
permit a pleasing variety.
Frequently a whole lower floor la pa
pered in one color with different tones
and designs for each room, in one such
scheme green was used a cool green
nd white stripe for the hall, a rich
forest tapestry for the library, its
massed follsge lightened by yellow
green flowers; a two-toned veluteen,
covered with a conventional grape de
sign. In which the dull purples and reds
of the fruit did not detract from a gen- .
eral Impression erf greenness,' above the
high oak wainscoting of the dining
room, while the drawing room, which
waa rather email, me library being
used for the general family life, waa
charmingly plain, being In a creamy
satin damask effect, with vines of del
icate green falling over the upper half
of the wall, as if suspended from the
picture moulding.
Another house, equally attractive, waa
papered throughout in yellows, from
deep yellow brown to palest canary.
If at all possible, some of the down
stairs rooms should be wainscoted. If
but one or two can be treated tn this
way, It Is well to confine It to the li
brary and dining room, though a liv
ing room is particularly effective fin
ished In white enameled panels, with
bookcases and mantel to match and a
shelf for pictures and brlo-a-brao at
the top.
The papers for such a treatment are
charming In the French eighteenth
century styles, the "English Morris"
patterns or some of the artistic French
. or German tapestries.
However much one may sdmlr this
f wainscot finish and It Is good In all
the natural hardwoods and In the new
' soft stains that are such perfect imi
tations it Is scarcely advisable in
building a house to use It too exten
sively. One woman who went into
raptures over a friend's wainscoted
bedroom straightway had the entire
upper floor of her new home done in
chestnut wood, reaching within a few
feet of the raftered celling, and felt
ever after as If she were living In a
series of cigar boxes. Variety cannot
be too strongly recommended, and the
long, straight lines of plainly papered
walla, especially in the low-celllnged
modern house, are both restful and
form excellent, backgrounds for pic
tures and hangings.
The gay paroquets and cockatoos
so much In favor this season are ex
tremely stylish for large living rooms
In the country, though they are
scarcely advisable when repaperlng
cannot be done often, as one is apt to
tire of so striking a style. For the
present, though, these vivid tropical
birds, bright flowers and brilliant fo
liage are all the rage, and will prob
ably clearly mark most of this sea
son's new houses.
Hall papers, as a rule, lack sugges
' tlon, and the walls are kept cool and
neutral In character.
Whatever paper Is used on the lower
floor rooms and with the two-tone
and two-colored veluteena. Art Nou
veau designs, gobelin and modern
tapestries, English high-colored arts
and crafts papers, exquisite satin
damasks, silk fibres, Japanese grass
cloths and old Cordova leather effects,
papers In stripes, figures or flowers,
and papera old English, French deco
rative, ancient German, there should be
no difficulty In gratifying every taste
the method of putting it on the walls
is the same: no borders, no fringe
nor dado, simply a plain stretch from
baseboard right up to plaster cor
nice or molding, with a white celling
to top It-
Cleaning and Renovat
ing Wicker Furniture
WICKER furniture, especially
that left out of doors, gets in
a little while very soiled from
the durt and soot in the at
mosphere. Indeed, without extreme car
the closely woven or rolled tops become
unpleasantly filled with various small
insects. ,
There is a mo-e or less prevalent Im
pression that wicker is hurt by water.
This Is quite erroneous. In fact, a good
scrubbing occasionally not merely Ira-
firoves its appearance, but tends to pro
ong Its life.
The proper way to care for wicker
furniture la to dust It well, getting Into
all the crevices, then wash it off with
clear water in which a little ammonia
has been placed. Do not treat the ar
ticle to be cleaned to a regular snaking
and then let it dry at Its own sweet will.
Instead, scrub carefully with a wet
cloth and dry thoroughly especially In
those parts ot the furniture where
water might be held.
When wicker grows too yellow, as it
frequently does with age, It takea paint
very well. Natural colored porch chairs
and couches which have become weather-beaten
may be absolutely rejuvenated
by giving them several coata of dark
green paint with a final coat of enamel
to prevent rubbing off on light gowna.
Any woman who doea not object to a
little daubines can easily do the work
herself. Buy tubes of ready-prepared
paint, or what la cheaper it there is
much furniture to renovate, get it mixed
by a painter.
It la well to caution the novice in such
work to apply her paint thinly and even
ly by allowing each coat to entirely dry
before the next Is put on. Too great
lavlshness In the use of the paint makes
rough, lumpy work, which, moreover, la
liable to bliater.
Midsummer Mourning,
DEAD WHITE, without the least
scrap of black about It, ia fast
taking precedence over anything
and everything else In the shape of
mourning for midsummer weather.
But the plainness of white must be
emphasized it s nut the airy, beautiful,
fluff characteristic yf (he summer girl
armed lor iter campaign. Trimming must
be kept subdued, and jewelry, except
for the useful bits (and even thla as
plsln as the jiiuvsrbiai plytsltai), is
tabooed.
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1 3kck Silk Bolero Jdr a.
3hck and. White Corlume
THAT faactntulng short Jocket
which takea Its name from one
of the national dances of Spain,
the bolero, baa been devel
oped this season Into dozens of Inter
esting forms.
The great success of princess and
Empire styles paved the way for It,
and then It went ahead on its own
account, tried this material and that,
auddenly conceived the Idea ot being
a separate jacket, and succeeded in
each In a way that was as unex
pected as It waa attractive.
Separate boleros, by the way, of
black taffeta make stunning accom
paniments to black and white checked
or striped skirts, with a white blouse
accentuating the white part of the
costume aa the bolero does the black.
They serve a dosen purposes act
Centerpieces in Color
EVEN centrepieces show the color In
fluence, and we have gone back to
the solid embroidery on white
linen, where the whole effect depends
on the worker's artistic sens and
knowledge ot shading. These new floral
designs are bolder than formerly, and
we see hydrangeas, popples, hibiscus,
asaleas, .or roses instead of dainty
Dresden flowers.
By fall there promises to be many
new Ideas In colored embroidery de
veloped In wool and filoselles. The
work ts German In character, the de
signs modified Art Nouveau and the
coloring extremely rich In mahogany,
old blue, green, red and yellow tones,
brought out by a black outline.
The stitches of this coming work,
though Intricate In appearance, are
really adaptations of well-known
forms as, for Instance, a couched
pineapple stitch or a much-slanted
satin stitch, barred In a different color,
or the satin stitch done in three or
four shades, which gives a woven ef
fect, or even the cid-fushluned briar
stitch with the centre cat. 'lit In a con
trasting color.
Embroidered Lingerie Ties
THE Introduction of color in so many
summer things Is echoed prettily
In an ticablonal one of the lingerie tics
which are so greauy In evidence. Pon
wide white ties the ends are turned Into
butterflies of color, a delicate effect got
by doing the woik eyelet faaulun in
colored thread.
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Trench -Irish "Crochet "-Made IfilA x 7$ raid
not only as a part of an effective cos
tume, but In the useful guise of the
separate little wrap so comfortable on
the occasional chill days.
But keep a black silk bolero strict
ly to black. It may be as elaborately
trimmed as you please, braids and
bands and pipings and cordlngs and
buttona all taking a part In It, with
black valenclennea lace (which is one
of Paris' latest fads) frilled on by
way of adding a touch that la light.
Perhaps, if It Is made after one of
the collarless models, a white linen
collar Is worn with it, but great care
must be exercised in choosing that
collar, ao that the combination may
not be startling. Collars of handker
chief linen, lavishly embroidered, and
perhapa Inset with lace, are so sheer
that the black shows through "tak-
The West Wind mid
the Sea
OVER the waves,
Sweet sounds come to me;
'Tis the song of the mermaids.
Under the sea;
And the chorus is sung.
Ho high and free.
By the wild west wind.
And the dashing sea.
In caves of pearl.
At Neptune a feet;
The mermaids chant their
Couplets sweet;
' With ever the chorus, high' and free.
Of the wild west wind
And the dashing sea.
Treasures of shells.
And Jewels, untold
Are brought to the caves,
By fishes ot gold;
And tales of these
Are told to me
By the wild west Hind
And the r iblug sea
ling on! Oh mermaids,
Yuur plaintive atralu,
With dieuins of splendor
Fill my liain;
But for tire and strength!
oh give to me,
The song ( the west Wind
And of the seat
Ing the edce off" tho white and soft
entyig the contrast charmingly.
There are short boleros and long
ones, boleros which are so tiny that
the fronts are a long way from meet
ing; others which lap, or tht Juit
meet, or Hro Joined by the narrowest
of waistcoats beaded or embroidered
or braided into tho prettiest sorts ot
things.
In the realm of washable boleros
wonderful things have been evolved
tho little jnckets which are only on
remove from capos being the simplest
ot nil. Others are mmlu ot such xher
fine stuffs that they look as though
they were another evolution of han l
korchlofs (like the corset covers nod
stocks of a couple of yeara ago), and
some of the loveliest tho ones til it
come as a part of beautiful robes
have bands of another color of linen
applied to the edge of both bolero
and skirt with a parasol to match,
all three pieces embroidered and em
broidered In beautiful, . involved de
signs. Violet or blue tlie soft French
blue which Is reminiscent of yet so
much prettier than old-time China
blue or any of the many new shades
of pink and rose-color, combine In this
fashion exquisitely with white, es
pecially when the color-part is mad
of one of those new French linens
which take tho color In tho soft,
pretty way characteristic of pastel
colors.
L,ace boleros are lovelier than they
were even so short a time ago as the
spring, for Ideas which were simply
the germs of Ideas then have blos
somed forth In raro new ways. Lace
Inlaid and encrusted with more luce,
batiste and lace tangled up Into a
harmonious, beautiful something that
Is neither there are more changes
rung upon the theme of lace boleros
than would be thought possible.
And the' pleated skirts, which sprang
Into favor so .suddenly, have brought
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with them the prettiest pleated bolero
the hardest thing to make, but an
odd. Interesting little style when Just
the right woman wears it. But the
wrong one in It !
More boleros even than any other
sort of coat are made with elbow
sleeves, some of the most attractive
made with sleeves that are almost
apologies for sleevea looso and flow
ing and apparently with more of the
lines of little capes than of sleeve.
Upon the embroidered boleros the
sleeves are embroidered as well as
the front and buck, with perhaps the
ever-useful scallop dragged In by way
of a flnish.
Those little postilion backs are high
In favor In bolero fashions some of
the linen ones having the tabs which
fall below the walnt made of lace.
Kitchen C urtains
ATTRACTIVE, Inexpenslvs sash
curtains for the kitchen may be
made of acrim or even cheese
cloth, either the pure white or the suit,
jiellow tint, which is Just one letitov
from biscuit color one way and just
one from white the other way.
Lay hems along the fioni and bot
tom, an inch to two Inches wide, and
hemstitch In a very open way, taking
enough threads In a stitch to make the
drawn part quite open.
Hemstitching In color adds to the ef
fectiveness; and If the work Is don ia
wash-silk or cotton, the curtains may
be washed repeatedly without any par
ticular care.
Half Mourning Collars
XAOH the woman who is In half
i mourning, come the prettiest
linen collars of white, carefully
shaped and edged with a narrow ap
plied hem of bluck.
riomeliines, as in the loveliest of the
French moun.lng handkerchiefs, the
collar is embroidered, (he embroidery
wandering off and on the black hem, and
Sottenlng the sharp contrail.
bias Collar bands
IF YOUR separate coat collars of
linen uiaw urouiid the l.a. k ol Ih
luck, take off the straight bunds
they are made up on ami suhMltute Lias
bunds Instead. The bias bund will
adapt itself to the curve, and let tba
collar lie 1UU
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