The Omaha Illustrated Bee
NUMBER 335.
Entered Second Class at Omaha Postoffice Published Weekly by The Bee Publishing Co. Subscription, $2.50 Per Year.
JANUARY 28, 1906.
AROUND THE WORLD WITH WILLIAM JENNINGS BRYAN
Social Customs of the Island People as Observed During the Welcome Home to Komura, the Demonstration in Honor of Togo and a Visit to the Mikado
(Copyright, 1906, by Joseph B. Bowles. Copyright In Great Britain. All
Rights Reserved.)
EYEKY nation has its customs, its way of doing things, and a
nation's customs and way are likely to be peculiar in propor
tion as the nation is isolated. In Japan, therefore, one would
expect to see many strange things, and the expectation is more
Mnn realize. I things their customs are exactly the opposite
ours. In writing they place their characters In vertical lines and
move from right to left, while our letters are arranged on horizontal
lines and rend from left to right. Their books begin where ours end
and end where ours tgln. The Japanese carpenters pull the saw and
Plane toward them, while ours push them from them. The Japanese
mounts his steed from th. right, while the American mounts from the
left; Japanese turn to the left. Americans to the right. Japanese write
It Smith John Mr., while we say Mr. John Smith. At dinners in Japan
wine Is served hot and soup cold, and the yard is generally at the back
of the house instead of the front.
The Jnpauese wear white for mourlng and often burv their dead
In a sitting posture. The death is sometimes announced as occurring
at the house, when, It actually occurred elsewhere, and the date of the
dneth is fixed to suit the convenience of the family. This i.s partly due
to the fact that the Japanese like to have the death appear as o.-curring
at home. Sometimes funeral services are held over a part of Hie body.
An American lady whose Japanese maid died while attending her mis
tress in the T'nlted States reports an incident worth relating. The lady
cabled her husband asking instructions in regard to the disposition of
the body. He conferred with the family of the deceased and cabled
back directing the wife to bring a lock of the hair and the false teeth
of the departed. The Instructions were followed and upon the delivery
of these precious relics they were interred with the usual ceremonies.
When Jap Meets Jap They Don't Shake Hand3
The handshake Is uncommon even among Japanese politicians, ex
cept in their Intercourse with foreigners. When Baron Komura re
turned from the jKace conference In which he played so important a
part. I was anxious to 1m present at his arrival, partly out of resiect
to the man and partly out of curiosity to see whether the threatened
manifestations of disapproval would bo made by the populace, it hav
ing been rumored that thousands of death lanterns were lwlng pre
pnred for n hostile parade. (It is needless to say tl-at the threats did
not materialize and that no expressions of disapproval were heard after
his arrivals I found it impossible to learn either the hour or the land
ing place, and, despairing of being present, started to visit a furniture
factory to Inspect some wood carving. Consul-General Jones of Hal
ney (near Tort Arthur), then visiting In Yokohama, was my escort and,
as good fortune would have it. we passed near the Ietnched 1'alace.
Pr. Jones, hearing that the lauding might be made there, obtained per
mission for us to await the peace commissioner's coming. We found
there Marquis Ito and a half dozen other olliclals. As Baron Komura
did not arrive for half an hour, it gave me the best opportunity that I
could have had to become acquainted with the marquis, who is the most
influential man In Japan at present. He is president of the Privy
Council of Elder Statesmen and Is credited with being the most potent
factor In the shipping of Japan's demands at Portsmouth.
When Baron Komura stepped from the launch upon the soli of bis
native land he was met by Marquis Ito and each greeted the other with
a low bow. The baron then saluted the other officials in the same man
ner and, turning, bowed to a group of Japanese ladies representing the
Woman'! Patriotic association. Dr. Jones and I stood some feet In
the rear of the officials and were greeted by the baron aftr he, Jiad
saluted bis own countrymen. He extended his hand to us. The inci
dent Is mentioned as Illustrating the difference in the manner of greet
ing. For who would be more apt to.clasp hands. If that were custo
mary, than these two distinguished statesmen whose personalities are
lndissolubly linked together in the conclusion of a world renowned
treaty!
When Bryan Saw the People of Tokio
A brief account of the reception of Admiral Togo may be interest
ing to those who read this article. While at Tokio I visited the city
han. at the invitation of the mayor and city council. While there
Mayor Ozakl informed me that he, in company with the mayors of the
other cities, would tender Admiral Togo a reception on the following
Tuesday and Invited me to be present Of course I accepted, because
It afforded a rare opportunity to observe Japanese customs asj well as
to see a large concourse of people. As I witnessed the naval review In
Yokohama the day before and the illumination at night I did not
reach Tokio until the morning of the reception, and this led me Into
considerable embarrassment. On the train I met a Japanese gent leman
who could speak English. He was kind enough to find me a rlklsha
with a pusher and to Instruct them to take me at once to tyeno
,T. if m. nrf tha 'rlklsha men followed his Instructions
nam. im men -.. ... . , . .
to the letter. They had not proceeded far when I discovered that
Admiral Togo had arrived on the same train and that a long pro
cession had formed to conduct him to the park. Before I knew It,
I was whisked itst an escort of distinguished citizens who. clad in
Prince Alberts and silk hats, followed the carriages, and then I found
my 'rlklsha drawn into an open space between two carriages. Grab
bing the 'rlklsha man In front of me. I told him by word and ges
ture to get out of the line .of the procession. Ike could not under
stand English, and evidently thinking that I wanted to ge nearer
to the front, he ran past a few carriages and then dropped Into an
other opening. Again I got him out of the line, employing more
emphasis than before, only to be carried still nearer the front
After repeated changes of position, all the time employing such
sign language as I could command and attempting to convey by
different tones of voice suggestions that I could not translate into
language, I at last reached the head of the procession. And the
riklBha men, as If satisfied with the success of their efforts, paused
to await the starting of the line. I tried to Inform them that I was
not a part of the procession; that I wanted to get on another street;
that they should take me to the park by some other route and do
so at once. They at last comprehended sufficiently to leave the
carriages and take up a rapid gait, but get off the street they would
not. For three miles they drew me between two rows of expectant
people whose eyes peered down the street to catch a glimpse of the
great admiral, who, as commander of the Japanese navy, has won
such signal victories over the Russians. I saw a million people;
they represented every class, ago and condition. I saw more pcoplo
than I ever saw before In a single day. Old men and old women,
feeble, but strengthened by their enthusiasm; middle-aged men and
women whose sons had shared In the dangers and In the triumphs
of the navy; students from the boys' schools and stu
dents from the girls' schools , with flags and banners,
little children dressed In all the colors of the rainbow all were
there. And I could Imagine that each one of them, old enough to
think, was wondering why a foreigner was intruding upon a street
which the police had cleared for a triumphal procession. If some
one had angrily caught my 'rikisha men and thrust them through
the crowd to a side street I should not have complained I would
even have felt relieved, but no one molested them or me and I
reached the park some minutes ahead of the admiral. How glad 1
was to alight, and how willingly I rewarded the smiles of the
'rlklsha men with a bonus for had they not done their duty as
they understood It? And had they not- also given me, in spite of
my protests, such a view of the people of Tokio as I could have
obtained In no other way?
Reception of Togo at the Park
At the park I luckily fell in with some of the councilmen
whom I had met before and they took me in hand. I saw the
procession arrive, heard the banzals (the Japanese cheers) as
they rolled along the street, keeping pace with Togo's carriage, and
I witnessed the, earnest, yet always orderly, rejoicing of the crowd
that had congregated at the end of the route. When the procession
passed by ua into the park the members of the city council fell
In behind the carriages, and I with them. When we reached the
aland, a, seat waa tendered me on the front row from which the
Third of This Notable Series of Letters Fourth
Letter Will Appear in The Bee Next Sunday
rUsiO "Sft':v
dancino onaa at a tokio tea garden'.
extraordinary ceremonies attending the reception could be wit
nessed. Mayor Ozakl, the presiding officer, escorted Admiral Togo
to a raised platform, and there 'the two took seats on little camp
stools some ten feet apart, facing each other, with their sides to
the audience and to those on the stand. After a moment's delay,
a priest clad in his official robes approached with, cake and a teacup
on a tray and, kneeling,-placed them before the admiral. Tea was.
then brought In a long-handled pot and poured into-the cup. After
the distinguished guest 'had. partaken of these, refreshments the;
mayor, arose aod read ah address of welcome. As he has the reputa-'.
tlon of being one of the best orators of the empire, his part was '
doubly Interesting to me. As he confined himself to his manuscript,
I could not judge of his delivery" but bis voice was pleasant and
bis manner natural? The address recited the exploits of Admiral
Togo and gave expression to the gratitude of the people. At Ks
conclusion the hero admiral arose and modestly acknowledged the
compliment paid to him and to his officers.' Admiral Togo Is short,
even for the Japanese, and has a scanty beard. Neither In stature
nor In countenance does he give evidence of the stern courage and
indomitable will which have raised him to the pinnacle of fame.
When he sat down the mayor proposed three times three
banzals, and they were given with a will by the enormous crowd
that stood In the open place before the stand. While writing this
article I am in receipt of information that Mayor Ozakl has secured
for me one of the little camp stools above referred to and has had
made for me a duplicate of the other. They will not only be in
teresting souvenirs of an historic occasion, and prized as such, but
they will be Interesting also because they contrast so sharply with
the large and richly upholstered chairs used in- America on similar
' occasions.
From this public meeting the admiral and his officers were
conducted to a neighboring hall where an elaborate luncheon was
served. With the councilmen I went to this ball and was presented
to the admiral and his associates, one of whom had been a student
at Annapolis.
Visit to the Mikado at His Palace
By the courtesy of Hon. Lloyd Brlscom, the American minister,
I had an audience with the emperor, these audiences being arranged
through the minister representing the country from which the
caller comes. Our minister, to whom I am indebted for much
assistance and many kindnesses during my stay at the capital, ac
companied me to the palace and Instructed me, as they say in
fraternities, "In the secret work of the order." Except when the
caller wears a uniform he Is expected to appear In evening dress,
although the bour fixed is In the daytime. At the outer door stand
men in livery, one of whom conducts the callers through long
halls beautifully decorated on ceilings and walls, to a spacious
reception ' room where a halt is made until the summons comes
from- the emperer'a room. - The emperor stands in the middle of
the receiving room with an Interpreter by his side. The caller on
reaching the threshold bows, he then advances half way to the
emperor, pauses and bows again; he then proceeds to bow a third
time as ho takes the extended hand of the soverelcn.
The conversation Is brief and formal, consisting of answers
to the questions asked by his majesty. The emperor is 53 years old,
about five feet six Inches In height, well built, and wears a beard,
although, as in the case with most Japanese, the growth Is not
heavy. On retiring the caller repeats the three bows.
We were ehown through the palace, and having seen the old
palace at Kyoto, which was the capital until the date of the Restora
tion (186S), I was struck with the difference. The former was
severely plain; the latter represents the best that Japanese art
can produce.
Ceremony of Drinking Tea
No discussion of Japanese customs would be complete without
mention of the tea ceremonial. One meets tea on his arrival, it is
his constant companion during his stay and It 1b mingled with the
farewells that speed him on his departure. Whenever he enters a
house he Is offered tea and cako and they are never refused. This
custom prevails In the larger stores and la scrupulously observed
at public buildings and colleges. The tea is served In dainty cups
iind taken without sugar or cream. The tea drinking habit Is
universal here, the kettle of boiling hot water setting on the coals
In the brazier most of the time. At each railroad station the boys
ring out, "Cha! Cha!" (the Japanese word for tea) and for less
than 2 cent In our money they will furnish the traveler with an
earthen pot of hot tea, with pot and cup thrown in.
The use of tea at social gatherings dates back at least 600
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WATCiriNO A BETJOIOCa PROCES5I0H.
years, when a tea ceremonial was Instituted by a Buddhist priest
to soften the manners of the warriors. It partook of a religious
character at first, but soon became a social form, and different
schools of tea drinkers vied with each other in suggesting rules
and methods of procedure. About 300 years ago Hldeyoshi, one
of the greatest military rulers of Japan, gave what Is described as
the largest tea party on record, the invitations being in the form of
an imperial edict. All lovers of tea were summoned to assemble at
a given date In a pine grove near Kyoto, and they seem to have done
so. The tea party lasted ten days and the emperor drank at every
booth.
According to Chamberlain, tea drinking had reached the luxu
rious stage before the middle of the fourteenth century. The lords
took part In the dally gatherings, reclining on tiger sklna, the
walls of the guest chamber being richly ornamented. One of the
popular games of that day was the offering of a number of varieties
of tea, the guests being required to guess where each variety was
produced, the best guess winning a handsome prize. The tea cere
mony answered at least one useful purpose It furnished an Inno
cent way of killing time, and the lords of that day seem to have
had an abundance of time on their hands. The daughters of the
npper classes were trained to perform the ceremony iind displayed
much skill therein. Even to this day it is regarded as one of the
accomplishments, and young women perfect themselves in it much
ns our daughters learn music and singing. At Kogoshlna Governor
Chlkaml, one of the most scholarly men whom I have met here, had
his daughter perform for my instruction a part of the ceremony,
time not permitting more. With charming grace she prepared,
poured and served this Japanese nectar, each motion being according
to the rules of the most approved sect, for there are sects among
tea drinkers.
Theaters and Geisha Girls
The theater is an ancient Institution here, although until
recently the actors were considered beneath even the mercantile
class. The social standing Las been somewhat Improved since the
advent of western Ideas. The theater building Is very plain as
compared with ours or even with the better class of homes her.
They are always on the ground floor and have a circular, revolving
stage within the larger stage which makes it possible to change the
scenes instantly.
The plavs are divided Into two kinds, historical ones repro
ducing old Japan and modern plays. The performance often lasts
through the entire day and evening, some of the audience bringing
their tea kettles and food. Lunches, fruit, cigarettes and tea are
also on sale in the theater. The people sit on the floor as they do
in their homes and at public meetings. One of the side aisles is
raised to the level of the stage and tho actors use it for entrance
and exit.
In this connection a word should be said in regard to the
Celsha girls who have furnished such ample material for the artist
and decorator. They are selected for their beauty and trained In
what is called a dance, although it differs so much from the
American dance as scarcely to be describable by that term. It Is
rather a series of graceful poBes in which gay costumes, dainty fans,
flags, scarfs and sometimes parasols play a part. The faces of the
dancers are expressionless and there is no exposure of the limbs. The
geisha girls are often called In to entertain guests at a private
dinner, the performance being before, not after the meal.
Our first Introduction to this national amusement was at the
Maple club dinner given at Tokio by a society composed of Japanese
men who had studied in the United States. The name of the society
la a'Japanese phrase which means the"Frlends of America." The
Maple club is the most famous restaurant in Japan, and the geisha
girls employed there stand at the head of their profession. During
the dancing there is music on stringed instruments, which re
semble the banjo in tone, and sometimes singing. At the Maple
club the geisha girls displayed American and Japanese flags. We
saw the dancing again at an elaborate dinner given by Mr. Fuku
rawa, editor of the Fiji Shlmpo. Here also the flags of both nations
were used.
Hospitality of the Japanese
In what words can I adequately describe the hospitality ot
the Japanese? I have read, and even beard, that among the more
Ignorant classes there is a decided anti-foreign feeling, and it is not
unnatural that those who refuse to reconcile themselves to Japan's
new attitude should blame the foreigner for the change, but we
did not encounter this sentiment anywhere. Never In our own
country have we been the recipients of more constant kindness or
more considerate attention. From Marquis Ito down through all
the ranks of official life we found everyone friendly to America, and
to us as representatives of America. At the dinner given to Minister
Grlscom there were present besides Marquis Ito, the leader of the
liberal party, Count Okuma, the leader of the progressive party
(the opposition party) and a number of other prominent Japanese
politicians.
At the dinner given by Consul General Miller at Yokohama
Governor Rufu and Mayor Ichihara were present. The state and
city officials wherever we have been have done everything possible
to make our stay pleasant. The college and school authorities have
opened their institutions to us and many without ocial position
have in unmistakable ways shown themselves friendly. We 'will
Curry away with us a number of handsome presents bestowed by
municipalities, colleges, societies and individuals.
We were entertained by Count Okuma soon after our arrival
and met there, among others, Mi. Kato of the State department
and President Hatoyama of the Waseda university and their wives.
The count's house is half European and half Japanese, and his
garden is celebrated for its beauty. At Viscount Kano's we saw
a delightful bit of home life. He is one of the few dalmlos, or
feudal lords, who has become conspicuous In the politics of Japan,
and we soon discovered the secret of his success. He has devoted
himself to the interests of agriculture and spent his time in an
earnest and intelligent effort to Improve the condition of the rural
population. He Is known ai "the farmer's friend." His house is at
the ton of a beautiful terrared hill, which was occe a part of tla
feudal estate. He and his wife and six children met us at the
bottom of the hill on our arrival and escorted us to the bottom on
our departure. The children assisted In serving the dinner and
afterward sang for us the American national air as well as their own
national hymn. Ttu hospitality was so genuine and so heartly en
tered Into by all the family that we could hardly realize that we
were in a foreign land and entertained by hosts to whom we had
t speak through an Interpreter.
Greeting From the School Children
In the country, fifteen miles from Kogoshima, I was a guest at
the home of Mr. Yamashlta, the father of the young man who, when
a student In A merle., made bis home with us for metre than five
rears. Mr. Yamashlta was of the bamural class and since the aboli
tion of feudalism hr.s been engaged in farming. He had Invited
his relatives and also the postmaster und the principal of the district
school to the noon meal. He co-id not have been more thoughtful
,-of my comfort or more kindly In his mp.nner. "The little country
school which stood near by turned out to bid us welcome. The
children were nusKed at a bridse over which large flags of the two
cations floated .from bamboo pojes. Each child also held a flag, the
Japanese and American flags alternting. As young Ymashlta and I
rode between the lines they waved their flags and shouted "Banzai!"
And bo It was at other schools. Older people may be diplomatic
and feign good will, but children speak from their hearts. There
I no mistaking their meaning, and In my memory the echo of the
voices of the children mingling with the assurances of the men and
women convinces me that Japan entertains nothing but good will
toward our nation. Steam has narrowed the Pacific and made US
neighbors; let Justice keep us friends. W. J. BRYAN.