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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 12, 1905)
TTTE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 12, 1D05 Requirements of (he Well Dressed Man A XE-ilS . l If Uv n ilodi vm. M 1U WWy I WILUAM J ERREMS' SONSkSylM l W 209-2U South Fifteenth Street. ftf 13 1 1 1 PRESENT DAT PATTERNS IN MEN'S CLOTHES. IVTHOT'OH the tendency toward i I greater freedom of choice, better I anareclatlon of what may be called the personal element, and improvements in textile arts and manufacture, have greatly done away with narrow fads and conventions in dress, there are certain broad forms, established by opinion and example of the best class of society, which still must he observed If one desires to be considered correctly at tired, and In few cases are these forms more standard than in that of afternoon dress for occasions of more or less for mality. On the other hand, this very sameness of general fashion renders more necessary a nice discrimination In the choice of de tail, because, when every man of nearly every class observes certain set rules, it Is not ,by clothes which conform to thos rulf that a smartly dressed man may be recognised, but rather by their charac ter of good material, good cut and fcond style. The frock coat of this season's fashion able design, even In Its most extreme models, has little to distinguish It from the styles of last autumn. Its character Is such that little change of a radical nature Is possible, and the variations of detail being the result of gradunl, rather than sudden change while apparent by compari sons with fashions of past, years, are rarely noticeable from one season to an other. The length of skirts might strlln one as being excessive compared to the style of a decade ago, but In reality it Is but a trifle. If anything, greater tl)iin the mora extreme style of the past several years, and the straight low cut of lapel and;tralght, though full, hang of skirt!), below the walstseam, are features only specially remarkable when compured to the rounded cut of lapels and more decided flara of skirts in vogue during the eurly and middle nineties. It may be, perhaps, that the side and back lines are not quite so sharply cut in at the waist, or, in other words, that the coat fits less snugly than wss the style of that time, but it should bs remembered that the cut must depend to a certain extent upon the figure of the wearer, and there is no doubt that when the figure will permit It a decided spring In the seams emphasizing the breadth of the shoulders, and giving a slender waist effect makes a more stylish looking gar ment. Worsteds, cheviots and vicunas. In black and dark shades of gray are the fabrics for the frock coat and waist coat, and Oxford mixture Is again more or less in vogue. For a full suit the medium gray shades are rather smart.. but the black or dark gray coat and waist coat, with trous ers of striped gray worsted or easslmere. Is the more general as well as the more serviceable fashion. Waist coats of the same material as the coat should be single-breasted, but when of light fabrics now the more fashionable for formal afternoon . dress the cut may be single or double-breasted, as one pre fers. The leading shops show a great va riety of weaves and designs, among them silks of more or less striking pattern and color effect. Some of them are extremely pretty Intrinsically, . and their high price prevents general popularity, yet less elab orate materials, such as the various wash fabrics In white, gray and other suitable shades, plain or self-marked, are more conservative and, on tho whole, rather better style. There la little change In the fashion of make indeed, there have been so many slightly different styles of detail in the shape of lapels, the number and spacing of buttons, the character of pockets and the cut of button edge, during the last few years, that It would be useless, if not posi tively misleading, to attempt to specify any one as pre-eminently in vogue. I may be said generally, however, that the neck opening is rather low and that the lapela of the double-breasted styles are broad and rather long in the roll. In shirts for afternoon dress for this fall the old standards are so fsr observed as that color of any pronounced shade is still considered Incorrect for shirts to be worn with formal clothes, and yet. while plain white linen of lustejless finish is always In good style, small ribs, lines or figures of white on white, fine, ribbed white pique and very pale gray and tan Shades, Instead of being a breach of good form, are, on the other hand, rather ex clusively smart. It Is by no means essen tial that the collar should be made on the shirt, but the opening preferably of the coat '"style should be In front only, and the cuffs should be attached. Turned-back cuffs are less a fad this season than dur ing the last several years, and while square corners are now, perhaps, a little more populur for dress shirt cuffs, as between them and corners cut sharply rounded, fashion draws no strict line. The straight standing or sllgthly poke pointed collar of medium height may be called the regulation shape for formal dress, but since the wing styles have be come fashionable again there is no deny ing their use by men who have the repu tation of dressing smartly, and they must certainly be considered correct. The fashion In neckties, at least so far as shape and style is concerned, has changed none whatever. The leading haber dashers are showing a variety of silks, satins and crepes of beautiful texture and design. In dark purples, dark green, black and white effects, deep browns, grays, etc., but. among the vast assortment, no one color or design seems to be particularly in favor. Charles K. Wlnton, in Men and Women Wearers of Odd and Expensive Jewelery IR THOMAS LIPTON Is said to be the possessor of a breastpin whicn Is a perfect triodd -of the. yacht Shamrock III. The yacht floats on a sea of emerald, and by twirling the pin can be made to move forward and pitch and toss as If actually n tha. sea. . . ' A lawsuit lately reported from Dresden shews thit Sir Thomas Upton's breastpin is by 90 means unique In freaktehnesa. The subject of the suit was a lady's bracalet, composed of a chain made up entirely of liny gold and Jeweled motor cars. The 'trips were represented by diamonds, be ...nd which shown tiny electric lights. More democratic Is the taste of a Mrs. Wcigeln. All this lady's Jewels In Bome way refer to her husband's business, that of a railway contractor. A necklace is tnailo like a section of rails, the metals being gold and the sleepers coral. A brooch Is shaped like a turntable, while the signal lumps and flag, for which her husband contracts, are Inlaid In emerald on a gold bracelet. The German chancellor. Count von Bue low, wears a life buoy breastpin. While staying at Heligoland many years ago he rescued a Hamburg gentleman who had fallen off a tugboat by throwing him a life buoy. As a token of gratitude the rescued man 'presented his savior with the pin. A marvelous watch has been made for a Nancy ' gentleman named Ducrot. The double case, which Is about as broad as a sixpence, is made of two large emeralds hollowed out. Inside are a dial and chro nometer works, a compass and a guide to the movements of the moon and planets. The watch. including the two emeralds, cost over 8.000. Musical jewelry la not unknown. A Mi lanese named Fassleomo Is said to have given his wife a bracelet which tinkled forth three different tunes. An artificer In Odessa lives wholly by Inventing Jeweled f re aits. Among his pro ductions are gravestone breastpins, brace let pussies, which can "e unclasped only by turning the inset gems In a particular way, and . talking brooches. Talking brooches can be made to flasH forth such simple words as "yes," or "no," and are In great demand among young ladies who expect utters of marriage. A Ban Francisco gentleman baa a Jeweled pipe. The pipe Is made of meerschaum, covered with a thin sheet of gold, in which are set pearls, sapphires and diamonds. The tiara of u lady of the same city represents the Inmates of a Noah's ark. Round the edges are set jeweled horses, cows, Hons, bears, serpents and birds. At the back Is an artificial oyster, carved out of mcther of pearl, representing, ac cording to the owner's opinion, the crown of the animal creation. In Lelpslc Is a ludy who possesses a pea cock brooch, the tail of which is set with stones colored In exact imitation of that of h real peacock. The tall distends or closes at the owner's will. When the kaiser painted his famous picture of "The Yellow Peril" a Berlin Jeweler put It on tho market In the fcrm of a brooch, the llgures being depicted in enamel. Another piece of "topical" jewelry was Issued In St. Petersburg shortly after the Investment of Port Arthur. It was a gold brooch on which, set In colored gems, ap peared a big Russian wresting a Jap flag from one of his diminutive enemies. The king of Italy inherited from his uncestors a sot of shirt studs, each of which Is -set with a big diamond contain ing a sapphire. The diamond completely surrounds the sapphire, and where the joining Is no Jeweler has ever been able to discover Among other articles of freak jewelry owned by the same gentleman Is a scarf pin shaped like a lighthouse, the jeweled top of which revolves, and a pair of sleeve links containing watch, compass and a snuff box. Among the treasures of the gaekwar of Kuroda Is a pair of earrings, each made of a t-lngle ruby hollowed out and containing a few drone of a precious perfume. An other Indian potentate glories In a Jeweled breastplate showing the possessions In pre cious stones. ' Three years ago the Czar Nicholas .sent as a gift to Parts a map of Franee.wlth all the departments shown In genis' obtained in the Ural mines. Pear son's. Weekly. ... 5oreltles In Jewelry. ' Very beautiful la a necklace of pearl daisies, connected by diamond chains. The graceful dragon fly. carried out In diamonds, emeralds and platinum, forms a taking little ornament. In costly tiaras, scrolls with leaf and flower patterns predominate. Birds and butteries are also shown in some charming designs. . . Pearl pave work, In balls and oblong forms,' Is shown In handsome hat pins. At tractive pins are In cup shapes of silver and pearl leaf work as a setting for large round stones. Emeralds have advanced more during the last few years than nny other stone, and you often hear of an emerald being sold at from $l,00o to KJ.uuO a karat, and not perfect at that. Some very novel and pleasing effects are shown In the use of white and pink ba roque pearls in simulating flowers with thick petals. In pearl pave work, as well as In gold, fine emeralds Hnd diamonds, the pansy is a favorite motif. To-day pearls are perhaps more in de mand than other stones, and while some of the beds are worked out, others have been so restricted that time has been given for the pearl-bearing mollusks to grow and produce. Jeweled hat pins are more ornamental than ever and the stick pin has come to be a thing of beauty In design. The jeweled hat pin must match the tones of the hat or be a decoration and not Intrude Itself upon the color scheme. Mock jewels ure worn by many. And no one need frown upon this fad as the money goes Into the design of the ornament and Jewelry must be had by every woman In these days. Boms eastern society leaders have adopted the vogue of having their diamonds set, not as ordinary tiaras or coronets. but In imitation of the royal crowns worn by the sovereigns of Kurope. Mrs. John Jacob Astor and Sirs. Clarence Mat kay have had their coronets made in the shape of the English crown. Mrs. Howard Gould pos sesses one exactlv like that of Queen Helen of Italy. Mrs. Charles Yerkes wears on her brow a facsimile of the Spanish queen's diadem, while. Mrs. Bradley Martin has bad the historic crown of Empress Josephine copied for her personal use. Don't Be A Ready-Made Mu ! , V Shakespeare's Truism that "The apparel oft proclaims the man," is as applicable today as it was in the Bard's time. Individuality if consistent is the crowning point of a garmentl Good dressers know this; hence the wonderful development and growth of the Tailoring Business. While PRICE was formerly the obstructing harrier between Ready-to-wear garments and those produced by the Tailor this does not hold good now for if one cannot afford to array his form with the $60 or $70 crea tions of the higher priced drapers he has an opportunity of placing his order with Nieoll The Tailor. Here you'll find an assortment that will gladden th? heart of every good dresser. "We take all there is in many styles, for our many stores, but never enough to nuke a style common nor choose one that will not graoe our reputation as leading and skillful buyers. We know the merits of fair dealing and fair profits both of which we own the right to nam by long ex perience in the Tailoring business. " All our wisdom is given to'producing garments that will make you steady and friendly customers. Trousers, $5 to $12; Overcoats and Suits, $20 to $50 We undertake to save you money. Better garments at moderate prices is our plan and trade gatherer You shall reap the benefit of our tailoring facilities and our ability to make it cost the least. If you live out of town write to us for our Sample Bag containing a choice assortment , of selected samples of Fall and Winter fabrics. ' We pay special attention to out-of-town orders and our guarantee for superior made and well fitting garments applies with equal force to them as to our city orders. Curious and Romantic Capers of Cupid Expert Cutter in Omaha. Omaha has the distinction this fall of claiming the residence of one man who Is a Heslgner of men's clothing. He creates styles that are adopted and used by tailors throughout the . country.; The person In question Is A. H. Proud., whose services have been secured by the Dresher Tailor ing company of this city, Mr. Proud's serv ices with the Dresher company will in clude that of designer of nobby garments, 8 well as being head cutter of this large tailoring establishment. No tailor has ever paid the salary, outside of New York or Chicago, that Mr. Dresher pays Mr. Proud. The new cutter is a Frenchman by birth, having learned the profession in Paris. For years he has been Identified with F.rooks Bros, of New York City, which firm sends out most of the leading cutters of the country. Several new designs In men's clothes have ! already been drafted by Mr. Proud since coming to Omaha and accepted by 'The American Gentleman," which regulates the style on men's garments; he is the regular designer for this Journal. It was Mr. Proud who first designed that extremely popular adjunct to man's dress the braided vests. It lias been the custom of army officers to send for their uniforms to Brooks Bros, in New York. . where Mr. Proud cut and superintended their making, but now the Fort Crook officers are having their clothes made by Mr. Proud at Dreslier's. He can cut uniforms as well as civilian clothes, and Is one of the best cutters in the country for riding breeches. Mr. Dresher Is carrying the largett stock of domestic and Imported goods of any tailor In Omaha and selling them at a price and giving workmanship that should be appreciated by every man in Omaha. Through his ability to buy at the right price and sell accordingly, he has done more to keep Omaha men well dressed than any three tailors combined. His ma terial and workmanship Is the best and he will reline any suit in which the lin ings may not give satisfaction, or If a suit that he turns out does not please the cus tomer in every way he will gladly let hhn select a different pattern and make up an other suit. SHOULDERS AND COLLAR GIVE STYLE TO A GOAT. LOOK AT THIS ONE Wellesler Girl to Wed. ROBABLY never in Its history has the Wellesley inn had so many visitors as were seen there on a recent Saturday. They came to see the charming hostess, Mies Carolina W. Rogers, who Is soon to marry Mr. William H. Hill, the Brookline multi millionaire. Miss Rogers, In addition to her many accomplishments. ) a clever business woman, and since 130-., two years after she graduated from Wellesley, she has so successfully managed the Wellesley Inn that It has enjoyed an area of un precedented prosperity. Mlsa Rogers was born In Bar re, Ma . and i a daughter of Charles J. Rogers, who is a retired editor. In U'xi' Miss Roger took up her studies at Wellesley and graduated in 19)0. While at the college, as well as today, Miss Rogers was an adept at all the out door sports for women, being particularly Interested in skating, boating and snow shoeing. She ia one of six children, the otheis being brothers, all of whom are Interested In atblctlca. Mr. Hill is 67 years old He is rated as a man worth flO.OJU.oOO. He owns a palatial estate on M'irton street, Brookllne, and a lie&utlfu! country home, the MupU-, at Hy;i I.Mori I'vrut Win Hasbaad. After rtading a poem by Miss i-auia M Ford of Philadelphia, mho has been dubbed by hsr friends "The (iermantown Poetess of Passion." W. Foster Smith, a wealthy farmer of Bucks couao. Peansvlvaula, 111 lu love with the author. As a result the pair will be married, reports the Chicago Tribune. The poetic arrow used by Cupid an entitled. "To a Farmer." The first stanxa read: Ho, ye farmers, hearken! hearken! Would'st a thrifty helpmeet wooT 1-Jstcn, then, for here's a maiden You may win If you will sue. She Is fair, and bright, and ruddy Kike a rose In summer time. Hho has known full thirty summers. But her charms are In their prime. She has virtues rare and many, r'he. has grart a rich and sweet. And you ne'er would want another once this mulden you should meet. I'pon reading thus far Mr. Smith laid down his paper. His eyes stared through the window out upon his broad exiates, but he saw neither the window nor the estates. Mr. Smith was meditating. "Here I am," he thought," a middle-aged Scotchman, with a scientific education and money. I have retired to spend the rest of my days In peace and comfort and I have no wife. I need a wife. I've been forced to admit that to myself for a long time. liere's a girl who can write fine poetry and she wants to marry a man just llkn me. She says she's pretty and attractive. I wonder if she can cook?" Mr. Smith picked up the farm Journal and read the second verse. It answered, his question as tersely as if h writer, had bt-en there and had overheard his re mark: She can cook the choicest viands. Hake the lightest bread and cake: Finest coffee. Jams, and Jellies, I'n and pudding, she can mak". She can f;tliun neatest garments. Missing buttons know no place, tor her dett and nimble fingers Never ea of these a trace. "That One," said Mr. Smith to him self. "But maybe she wouldn't have me." He was Inclined to feel much cast down about this, but when he read the last few lines of the last verse his doubts were dis pelled: You have purse strings rather lengthy. Which would open at her will. Then, good farmer, you think, doubtless, You're the one to fill the bill. "By George!" exclaimed Mr. Smith, Blap ping his knee. "I'll do it," and he sat down at his desk and dashed off a note to Miss Iaura M. Ford, the poetess. It isn't necessary to recount all the de tails of the romance that followed. Suffice to say. the Invitations are out. Miss Ford lives with her widowed inother and for twelve years has been employed by the New York Mutual Life Insurance company. In her spare moments she writes poetry hot, passionate poetry, which Justifies the title on a volume of the verses published by her for private circulation. They are called "Jleart Throbs." Miss Ford regards "To a Farmer" her best effort, which. In the light of recent events, might be natural. Maalrlaas aud Heiresses. Josef ilofmann, who is to wed Mrs. Qeorge Eustls, is not the first foreign pianist to marry a New Tork woman of position. The late Flam Rumniel, met and married her Miss Morse, a daughter of the Inventor of the telegraph. Richard Hoffman, who came here from England to tour with Jenny I.I nd. married a daughter of th Lamson family, and only last winter Ernest Schilling was married to Miss Draper. No other musicians have broken Into families of wealth and position so readily aa the nlfi4 Religious Notes Whereas when the Salvation army be gan its work It was pelted with mud and worse now General Booth, as he tours about Great Britain In his auto car, is pelted with 5 notes. Rev. Howard Bliss, president of the Syrian Protestant college at Beirut, Syria, has just arrived In this country and will remain three months to collect funds for the institution which his father estab lished thirty-nine years ago. Brother Michael, well known In New York, for he taught in the Christian Brothers' schools there for twenty-five year, Is now director of St. John's Insti tute, Singapore, and three of the boys of that school have Just won government scholarships. Rev. Dr. Robert M. Russell has accepted the presidency of Westminster college. New Wilmington. Pa., at a salary of 3.tiuu a year, giving up his pastorate of the i Sixth I nlted Presbyterian church, Pitts burg, which paid him exactly twice as I much. ; Prof. Orr of the I'nited Free Church col lege, Glasgow, Has obtained the Bross prise j of 16.0110 for tfie best theological book en I tered In competition. The prise Is I awarded by the trustees of Lake Forest I university of this city. Dr. Orr's book deals with the Old Testament problem. Rev. Hugh Black of Edinburg. Scotland, who recently accepted a chair In the I'nlon i Theological seminary. New York. Is only 37 years old, but already has achieved a leading position among the clergymen of his native country. Ills writings are al most as well known in this country aa in Scotland. 1 those who far that old Trinity church, New York City, will soon disappear may be reaxsured by th statement that re cently the vestrymen have refused $3,000, ftjO for the site. Millions of dollars have been oftered at one time or another for old Trinity site, but so far It has been guarded sturdily by the vestry of lis par nh attains! the desecrating touch of spec ulation. Trinity is American, and. while New Yorkers are forgetful of the historical associations surrounding Its God's acre, there are thnuHunds of visitors who pay homage tw itiv knuwa aud unknown anion g 1W dsaX ... V . ' , - -.. .J. ; -, - -;. - 1 - ( 1 ' ' ' '$ 4 ' - A X. 4 . ' V ' ' y j '; ' . ..',-; 'V -'' I - i i ..-: f x- :-... , y; : ........ . 1 - ' -. - - ! V:- J 7'.:;: PROTOGRAPH OF A. V. DRESHER With Stylish Three-Button Double-Breasted Coat "Over 3,000 Patterns to Select From YOU CANNOT FAIL TO FIND WHAT YOU WANT 1515 Farnam Street Omaha's Fashionable Tailor OPEN EVENINGS TOO BUSY MAKING CLOTHES TO CL08E FOR ) j f Wheaton's trade ' Va 1 ''Phone him' rflid ha (!' w will do aa well J iTELEPiioriE 30961 7& 15A.T Real Butter Scotch "IT TASTEH LIU II UONC" s0AT C. W'OODU'iiD A5, CO. "THt CANDY MiH" Council Blutts. low. Ufie Best of Everything The Only Double Track Railway to Chicago 25 Per Cent Than the one way fare far round trip tickets Nebraska, m Wyoming, Th Blak Hills, and Many South rn Points. Nov. 7 and 21. City Offlcaa- 14011403 FARNAM ST. OMAHA TCU e4-61