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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 12, 1905)
TTTE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 12, 1D05
Requirements of (he Well Dressed Man
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M 1U WWy I WILUAM J ERREMS' SONSkSylM
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PRESENT DAT PATTERNS IN MEN'S CLOTHES.
IVTHOT'OH the tendency toward
i I greater freedom of choice, better
I anareclatlon of what may be
called the personal element, and
improvements in textile arts and
manufacture, have greatly done away
with narrow fads and conventions in dress,
there are certain broad forms, established
by opinion and example of the best class
of society, which still must he observed If
one desires to be considered correctly at
tired, and In few cases are these forms
more standard than in that of afternoon
dress for occasions of more or less for
mality. On the other hand, this very sameness
of general fashion renders more necessary
a nice discrimination In the choice of de
tail, because, when every man of nearly
every class observes certain set rules, it Is
not ,by clothes which conform to thos
rulf that a smartly dressed man may
be recognised, but rather by their charac
ter of good material, good cut and fcond
The frock coat of this season's fashion
able design, even In Its most extreme
models, has little to distinguish It from
the styles of last autumn. Its character Is
such that little change of a radical nature
Is possible, and the variations of detail
being the result of gradunl, rather than
sudden change while apparent by compari
sons with fashions of past, years, are
rarely noticeable from one season to an
other. The length of skirts might strlln
one as being excessive compared to the
style of a decade ago, but In reality it Is
but a trifle. If anything, greater tl)iin the
mora extreme style of the past several
years, and the straight low cut of lapel
and;tralght, though full, hang of skirt!),
below the walstseam, are features only
specially remarkable when compured to the
rounded cut of lapels and more decided
flara of skirts in vogue during the eurly
and middle nineties. It may be, perhaps,
that the side and back lines are not quite
so sharply cut in at the waist, or, in other
words, that the coat fits less snugly than
wss the style of that time, but it should
bs remembered that the cut must depend
to a certain extent upon the figure of the
wearer, and there is no doubt that when
the figure will permit It a decided spring
In the seams emphasizing the breadth of
the shoulders, and giving a slender waist
effect makes a more stylish looking gar
ment. Worsteds, cheviots and vicunas. In black
and dark shades of gray are the fabrics
for the frock coat and waist coat, and
Oxford mixture Is again more or less in
vogue. For a full suit the medium gray
shades are rather smart.. but the black or
dark gray coat and waist coat, with trous
ers of striped gray worsted or easslmere.
Is the more general as well as the more
Waist coats of the same material as the
coat should be single-breasted, but when
of light fabrics now the more fashionable
for formal afternoon . dress the cut may
be single or double-breasted, as one pre
fers. The leading shops show a great va
riety of weaves and designs, among them
silks of more or less striking pattern and
color effect. Some of them are extremely
pretty Intrinsically, . and their high price
prevents general popularity, yet less elab
orate materials, such as the various wash
fabrics In white, gray and other suitable
shades, plain or self-marked, are more
conservative and, on tho whole, rather
There la little change In the fashion of
make indeed, there have been so many
slightly different styles of detail in the
shape of lapels, the number and spacing
of buttons, the character of pockets and
the cut of button edge, during the last few
years, that It would be useless, if not posi
tively misleading, to attempt to specify
any one as pre-eminently in vogue. I may
be said generally, however, that the neck
opening is rather low and that the lapela
of the double-breasted styles are broad
and rather long in the roll.
In shirts for afternoon dress for this
fall the old standards are so fsr observed
as that color of any pronounced shade is
still considered Incorrect for shirts to be
worn with formal clothes, and yet. while
plain white linen of lustejless finish is
always In good style, small ribs, lines or
figures of white on white, fine, ribbed
white pique and very pale gray and tan
Shades, Instead of being a breach of good
form, are, on the other hand, rather ex
clusively smart. It Is by no means essen
tial that the collar should be made on the
shirt, but the opening preferably of the
coat '"style should be In front only, and
the cuffs should be attached. Turned-back
cuffs are less a fad this season than dur
ing the last several years, and while square
corners are now, perhaps, a little more
populur for dress shirt cuffs, as between
them and corners cut sharply rounded,
fashion draws no strict line.
The straight standing or sllgthly poke
pointed collar of medium height may be
called the regulation shape for formal
dress, but since the wing styles have be
come fashionable again there is no deny
ing their use by men who have the repu
tation of dressing smartly, and they must
certainly be considered correct.
The fashion In neckties, at least so far
as shape and style is concerned, has
changed none whatever. The leading haber
dashers are showing a variety of silks,
satins and crepes of beautiful texture and
design. In dark purples, dark green, black
and white effects, deep browns, grays, etc.,
but. among the vast assortment, no one
color or design seems to be particularly in
favor. Charles K. Wlnton, in Men and
Wearers of Odd and Expensive Jewelery
IR THOMAS LIPTON Is said to be
the possessor of a breastpin whicn
Is a perfect triodd -of the. yacht
Shamrock III. The yacht floats
on a sea of emerald, and by
twirling the pin can be made to move
forward and pitch and toss as If actually
n tha. sea. . . '
A lawsuit lately reported from Dresden
shews thit Sir Thomas Upton's breastpin
is by 90 means unique In freaktehnesa. The
subject of the suit was a lady's bracalet,
composed of a chain made up entirely of
liny gold and Jeweled motor cars. The
'trips were represented by diamonds, be
...nd which shown tiny electric lights.
More democratic Is the taste of a Mrs.
Wcigeln. All this lady's Jewels In Bome
way refer to her husband's business, that
of a railway contractor. A necklace is
tnailo like a section of rails, the metals
being gold and the sleepers coral. A
brooch Is shaped like a turntable, while
the signal lumps and flag, for which her
husband contracts, are Inlaid In emerald
on a gold bracelet.
The German chancellor. Count von Bue
low, wears a life buoy breastpin. While
staying at Heligoland many years ago he
rescued a Hamburg gentleman who had
fallen off a tugboat by throwing him a life
buoy. As a token of gratitude the rescued
man 'presented his savior with the pin.
A marvelous watch has been made for
a Nancy ' gentleman named Ducrot. The
double case, which Is about as broad as a
sixpence, is made of two large emeralds
hollowed out. Inside are a dial and chro
nometer works, a compass and a guide to
the movements of the moon and planets.
The watch. including the two emeralds,
cost over 8.000.
Musical jewelry la not unknown. A Mi
lanese named Fassleomo Is said to have
given his wife a bracelet which tinkled
forth three different tunes.
An artificer In Odessa lives wholly by
Inventing Jeweled f re aits. Among his pro
ductions are gravestone breastpins, brace
let pussies, which can "e unclasped only
by turning the inset gems In a particular
way, and . talking brooches. Talking
brooches can be made to flasH forth such
simple words as "yes," or "no," and are
In great demand among young ladies who
expect utters of marriage.
A Ban Francisco gentleman baa a Jeweled
pipe. The pipe Is made of meerschaum,
covered with a thin sheet of gold, in which
are set pearls, sapphires and diamonds.
The tiara of u lady of the same city
represents the Inmates of a Noah's ark.
Round the edges are set jeweled horses,
cows, Hons, bears, serpents and birds. At
the back Is an artificial oyster, carved
out of mcther of pearl, representing, ac
cording to the owner's opinion, the crown
of the animal creation.
In Lelpslc Is a ludy who possesses a pea
cock brooch, the tail of which is set with
stones colored In exact imitation of that of
h real peacock. The tall distends or closes
at the owner's will.
When the kaiser painted his famous
picture of "The Yellow Peril" a Berlin
Jeweler put It on tho market In the fcrm
of a brooch, the llgures being depicted in
Another piece of "topical" jewelry was
Issued In St. Petersburg shortly after the
Investment of Port Arthur. It was a gold
brooch on which, set In colored gems, ap
peared a big Russian wresting a Jap flag
from one of his diminutive enemies.
The king of Italy inherited from his
uncestors a sot of shirt studs, each of
which Is -set with a big diamond contain
ing a sapphire. The diamond completely
surrounds the sapphire, and where the
joining Is no Jeweler has ever been able
Among other articles of freak jewelry
owned by the same gentleman Is a scarf
pin shaped like a lighthouse, the jeweled
top of which revolves, and a pair of sleeve
links containing watch, compass and a
Among the treasures of the gaekwar of
Kuroda Is a pair of earrings, each made of
a t-lngle ruby hollowed out and containing
a few drone of a precious perfume. An
other Indian potentate glories In a Jeweled
breastplate showing the possessions In pre
cious stones. ' Three years ago the Czar
Nicholas .sent as a gift to Parts a map of
Franee.wlth all the departments shown In
genis' obtained in the Ural mines. Pear
son's. Weekly. ...
5oreltles In Jewelry.
' Very beautiful la a necklace of pearl
daisies, connected by diamond chains.
The graceful dragon fly. carried out In
diamonds, emeralds and platinum, forms
a taking little ornament.
In costly tiaras, scrolls with leaf and
flower patterns predominate. Birds and
butteries are also shown in some charming
designs. . .
Pearl pave work, In balls and oblong
forms,' Is shown In handsome hat pins. At
tractive pins are In cup shapes of silver
and pearl leaf work as a setting for large
Emeralds have advanced more during
the last few years than nny other stone,
and you often hear of an emerald being
sold at from $l,00o to KJ.uuO a karat, and
not perfect at that.
Some very novel and pleasing effects are
shown In the use of white and pink ba
roque pearls in simulating flowers with
thick petals. In pearl pave work, as well
as In gold, fine emeralds Hnd diamonds,
the pansy is a favorite motif.
To-day pearls are perhaps more in de
mand than other stones, and while some
of the beds are worked out, others have
been so restricted that time has been given
for the pearl-bearing mollusks to grow and
Jeweled hat pins are more ornamental
than ever and the stick pin has come to be
a thing of beauty In design. The jeweled
hat pin must match the tones of the hat
or be a decoration and not Intrude Itself
upon the color scheme. Mock jewels ure
worn by many. And no one need frown
upon this fad as the money goes Into the
design of the ornament and Jewelry must
be had by every woman In these days.
Boms eastern society leaders have adopted
the vogue of having their diamonds set,
not as ordinary tiaras or coronets. but
In imitation of the royal crowns worn by
the sovereigns of Kurope. Mrs. John Jacob
Astor and Sirs. Clarence Mat kay have had
their coronets made in the shape of the
English crown. Mrs. Howard Gould pos
sesses one exactlv like that of Queen Helen
of Italy. Mrs. Charles Yerkes wears on her
brow a facsimile of the Spanish queen's
diadem, while. Mrs. Bradley Martin has
bad the historic crown of Empress
Josephine copied for her personal use.
Don't Be A Ready-Made Mu ! ,
Shakespeare's Truism that "The apparel oft proclaims the man," is as applicable today as it was in the
Bard's time. Individuality if consistent is the crowning point of a garmentl Good dressers know this; hence
the wonderful development and growth of the Tailoring Business.
While PRICE was formerly the obstructing harrier between Ready-to-wear garments and those produced
by the Tailor this does not hold good now for if one cannot afford to array his form with the $60 or $70 crea
tions of the higher priced drapers he has an opportunity of placing his order with Nieoll The Tailor.
Here you'll find an assortment that will gladden th? heart of every good dresser. "We take all there is in
many styles, for our many stores, but never enough to nuke a style common nor choose one that will not graoe
our reputation as leading and skillful buyers.
We know the merits of fair dealing and fair profits both of which we own the right to nam by long ex
perience in the Tailoring business. "
All our wisdom is given to'producing garments that will make you steady and friendly customers.
Trousers, $5 to $12; Overcoats and Suits, $20 to $50
We undertake to save you money. Better garments at moderate prices is our plan and trade gatherer
You shall reap the benefit of our tailoring facilities and our ability to make it cost the least.
If you live out of town write to us for our Sample Bag containing a choice assortment , of selected
samples of Fall and Winter fabrics. '
We pay special attention to out-of-town orders and our guarantee for superior made and well fitting
garments applies with equal force to them as to our city orders.
Curious and Romantic Capers of Cupid
Expert Cutter in Omaha.
Omaha has the distinction this fall of
claiming the residence of one man who
Is a Heslgner of men's clothing. He creates
styles that are adopted and used by tailors
throughout the . country.; The person In
question Is A. H. Proud., whose services
have been secured by the Dresher Tailor
ing company of this city, Mr. Proud's serv
ices with the Dresher company will in
clude that of designer of nobby garments,
8 well as being head cutter of this large
tailoring establishment. No tailor has ever
paid the salary, outside of New York or
Chicago, that Mr. Dresher pays Mr. Proud.
The new cutter is a Frenchman by birth,
having learned the profession in Paris.
For years he has been Identified with
F.rooks Bros, of New York City, which
firm sends out most of the leading cutters
of the country.
Several new designs In men's clothes have
! already been drafted by Mr. Proud since
coming to Omaha and accepted by 'The
American Gentleman," which regulates the
style on men's garments; he is the regular
designer for this Journal.
It was Mr. Proud who first designed that
extremely popular adjunct to man's dress
the braided vests.
It lias been the custom of army officers
to send for their uniforms to Brooks Bros,
in New York. . where Mr. Proud cut and
superintended their making, but now the
Fort Crook officers are having their clothes
made by Mr. Proud at Dreslier's. He can
cut uniforms as well as civilian clothes, and
Is one of the best cutters in the country
for riding breeches.
Mr. Dresher Is carrying the largett stock
of domestic and Imported goods of any
tailor In Omaha and selling them at a price
and giving workmanship that should be
appreciated by every man in Omaha.
Through his ability to buy at the right
price and sell accordingly, he has done
more to keep Omaha men well dressed
than any three tailors combined. His ma
terial and workmanship Is the best and
he will reline any suit in which the lin
ings may not give satisfaction, or If a suit
that he turns out does not please the cus
tomer in every way he will gladly let hhn
select a different pattern and make up an
SHOULDERS AND COLLAR GIVE STYLE
TO A GOAT. LOOK AT THIS ONE
Wellesler Girl to Wed.
ROBABLY never in Its history
has the Wellesley inn had so
many visitors as were seen there
on a recent Saturday. They came
to see the charming hostess, Mies
Carolina W. Rogers, who Is soon to marry
Mr. William H. Hill, the Brookline multi
millionaire. Miss Rogers, In addition to her many
accomplishments. ) a clever business
woman, and since 130-., two years after
she graduated from Wellesley, she has so
successfully managed the Wellesley Inn
that It has enjoyed an area of un
Mlsa Rogers was born In Bar re, Ma .
and i a daughter of Charles J. Rogers,
who is a retired editor. In U'xi' Miss
Roger took up her studies at Wellesley
and graduated in 19)0.
While at the college, as well as today,
Miss Rogers was an adept at all the out
door sports for women, being particularly
Interested in skating, boating and snow
shoeing. She ia one of six children, the otheis
being brothers, all of whom are Interested
Mr. Hill is 67 years old He is rated as
a man worth flO.OJU.oOO. He owns a palatial
estate on M'irton street, Brookllne, and a
lie&utlfu! country home, the MupU-, at
I'vrut Win Hasbaad.
After rtading a poem by Miss i-auia M
Ford of Philadelphia, mho has been dubbed
by hsr friends "The (iermantown Poetess
of Passion." W. Foster Smith, a wealthy
farmer of Bucks couao. Peansvlvaula, 111
lu love with the author. As a result the
pair will be married, reports the Chicago
Tribune. The poetic arrow used by Cupid
an entitled. "To a Farmer." The first
Ho, ye farmers, hearken! hearken!
Would'st a thrifty helpmeet wooT
1-Jstcn, then, for here's a maiden
You may win If you will sue.
She Is fair, and bright, and ruddy
Kike a rose In summer time.
Hho has known full thirty summers.
But her charms are In their prime.
She has virtues rare and many,
r'he. has grart a rich and sweet.
And you ne'er would want another
once this mulden you should meet.
I'pon reading thus far Mr. Smith laid
down his paper. His eyes stared through
the window out upon his broad exiates,
but he saw neither the window nor the
estates. Mr. Smith was meditating.
"Here I am," he thought," a middle-aged
Scotchman, with a scientific education and
money. I have retired to spend the rest
of my days In peace and comfort and I
have no wife. I need a wife. I've been
forced to admit that to myself for a long
time. liere's a girl who can write fine
poetry and she wants to marry a man
just llkn me. She says she's pretty and
attractive. I wonder if she can cook?"
Mr. Smith picked up the farm Journal
and read the second verse. It answered,
his question as tersely as if h writer,
had bt-en there and had overheard his re
mark: She can cook the choicest viands.
Hake the lightest bread and cake:
Finest coffee. Jams, and Jellies,
I'n and pudding, she can mak".
She can f;tliun neatest garments.
Missing buttons know no place,
tor her dett and nimble fingers
Never ea of these a trace.
"That One," said Mr. Smith to him
self. "But maybe she wouldn't have me."
He was Inclined to feel much cast down
about this, but when he read the last few
lines of the last verse his doubts were dis
pelled: You have purse strings rather lengthy.
Which would open at her will.
Then, good farmer, you think, doubtless,
You're the one to fill the bill.
"By George!" exclaimed Mr. Smith, Blap
ping his knee. "I'll do it," and he sat
down at his desk and dashed off a note
to Miss Iaura M. Ford, the poetess.
It isn't necessary to recount all the de
tails of the romance that followed. Suffice
to say. the Invitations are out.
Miss Ford lives with her widowed inother
and for twelve years has been employed
by the New York Mutual Life Insurance
company. In her spare moments she
writes poetry hot, passionate poetry,
which Justifies the title on a volume of
the verses published by her for private
circulation. They are called "Jleart
Miss Ford regards "To a Farmer" her
best effort, which. In the light of recent
events, might be natural.
Maalrlaas aud Heiresses.
Josef ilofmann, who is to wed Mrs.
Qeorge Eustls, is not the first foreign
pianist to marry a New Tork woman of
position. The late Flam Rumniel, met and
married her Miss Morse, a daughter of
the Inventor of the telegraph. Richard
Hoffman, who came here from England to
tour with Jenny I.I nd. married a daughter
of th Lamson family, and only last winter
Ernest Schilling was married to Miss
Draper. No other musicians have broken
Into families of wealth and position so
readily aa the nlfi4
Whereas when the Salvation army be
gan its work It was pelted with mud and
worse now General Booth, as he tours
about Great Britain In his auto car, is
pelted with 5 notes.
Rev. Howard Bliss, president of the
Syrian Protestant college at Beirut, Syria,
has just arrived In this country and will
remain three months to collect funds for
the institution which his father estab
lished thirty-nine years ago.
Brother Michael, well known In New
York, for he taught in the Christian
Brothers' schools there for twenty-five
year, Is now director of St. John's Insti
tute, Singapore, and three of the boys of
that school have Just won government
Rev. Dr. Robert M. Russell has accepted
the presidency of Westminster college.
New Wilmington. Pa., at a salary of 3.tiuu
a year, giving up his pastorate of the
i Sixth I nlted Presbyterian church, Pitts
burg, which paid him exactly twice as
; Prof. Orr of the I'nited Free Church col
lege, Glasgow, Has obtained the Bross prise
j of 16.0110 for tfie best theological book en
I tered In competition. The prise Is
I awarded by the trustees of Lake Forest
I university of this city. Dr. Orr's book
deals with the Old Testament problem.
Rev. Hugh Black of Edinburg. Scotland,
who recently accepted a chair In the I'nlon
i Theological seminary. New York. Is only
37 years old, but already has achieved a
leading position among the clergymen of
his native country. Ills writings are al
most as well known in this country aa in
1 those who far that old Trinity church,
New York City, will soon disappear may
be reaxsured by th statement that re
cently the vestrymen have refused $3,000,
ftjO for the site. Millions of dollars have
been oftered at one time or another for
old Trinity site, but so far It has been
guarded sturdily by the vestry of lis par
nh attains! the desecrating touch of spec
ulation. Trinity is American, and. while
New Yorkers are forgetful of the historical
associations surrounding Its God's acre,
there are thnuHunds of visitors who pay
homage tw itiv knuwa aud unknown anion g
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PROTOGRAPH OF A. V. DRESHER
With Stylish Three-Button Double-Breasted Coat
"Over 3,000 Patterns to Select From
YOU CANNOT FAIL TO FIND WHAT YOU WANT
1515 Farnam Street
Omaha's Fashionable Tailor
TOO BUSY MAKING CLOTHES TO CL08E
FOR ) j
f Wheaton's trade ' Va
1 ''Phone him' rflid ha (!'
w will do aa well J
Real Butter Scotch
"IT TASTEH LIU II UONC"
s0AT C. W'OODU'iiD A5, CO.
"THt CANDY MiH" Council Blutts. low.
Ufie Best of
The Only Double
25 Per Cent
Than the one way fare far
round trip tickets
Th Blak Hills,
Many South rn Points.
Nov. 7 and 21.
14011403 FARNAM ST.
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