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N Interesting ease came up before the French
J I court the other day. A maid sued for her
JUok I services, claiming that they had been unusu
JlSL I al'y arduous and that she was entitled to
double pay. " My mistress," said she, " com
pelled me to assist her night and day. She
often told me that If she succeeded In becomln?
beautiful she would pay me anything I asked "
The Frenchwoman, who, by the way. Is beautiful now,
n as formerly ugly. She had certain defects which she
wanted cured. And she went to heroic ends to accomplish
her purpose. She lived the life of an early Christian martyr
for six months, with the result that she became lovely. She
considered the time well spent, for all agreed that she had
worked a great transformation.
According to the maid, these are the things she did:
She underwent face skinning. Her face was first rubbed
with a kind of smarting antiseptic and plasters were applied
to It. These were allowed to remain on several days until
the flesh underneath ithem became sore. Gradually the plas
ters fell off, bringing the skin with them. The pain during
this time was great, but her mistress did not complain. She
wanted to be beautiful at any cost.
When the Frenchwoman began her treatment her nose
was Imperfect. It was Inclined to turn up and one nostril
was too thin. It made her nose ugly. To remedy this defect
one nostril was stuffed with cotton and was kept stuffed for
months. This made it the same slue as the other, Mean
whllo the nose was massaged into place.
How Her Ears Were Made Over.
The young woman's ears, which had been round and
protruding, were laid flat to the head and held In place by
bandages. Then the lobes were pulled down to make the ears
long enough. This required six months' steady treatment, as
the ears were thick and obstinate and Inclined to resist being
made over. .
Not content with these Improvements to the face It was
required that the wrinkles be taken out of the forehead.
. .
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r,t:
This was done by slitting th skin ilong the line of the hair
and drawing it up tightly. It was then secured with sticking
plaster and kept In place by bandages until it had healed.
When well the forehead was as smooth as the forehead of a
child.
i This young Frenchwoman, who wanted to go on the
stage, was far from satisfied with the appearance of the
bridge of her nose and the portion of her nose between the
eyebrows. It was too depressed. I.Ike Mlsa Gladys Parker
Deacon, she wanted a classie profile.
So there was nothing to be done except to Inject paraffin ,
J
V,
.J P
i W TT . I . ,f i "
S't "
By a Series of Painful Operations She
Transformed Herself in Six Months from
an Ugly Duckling Into a SWan of Exquisite J
'BeautyShe Made OVer All Her Features
and jittered Her Figure from a Short Stub'
biness Into a Tall SVette-like Form.
i
With n devotion' to beauty worthy a better causv she
allowed herself to lie flat upon the floor arid be strapped to a
board. Here she lay If the story of the maid Is to be
believed for six. months with Scarcely any let up. She
wanted the figure of a sylph, and She got it. She was fed
through straws and she ate as little as possible. Indeed,
she could not move her muscles at all, for she had plaster
on her face, paraffin on her forehead, and a bandage around
her ears. She took Just enough food to keep life going.
Each day the maid lifted her to a high stool and here she
sat for hours swaying tack and forth. This was to reduce
her waist, which was too large for the waist of a sylph. She
swayed and she swayed and she did exercises and exercises.
When she was exhausted she lay back down upon the floor
find was strapped to the board again. This was to make her
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French woman, and on this account It Is easier for them to
acquire beauty. It Isn't necessary to be strapped to a board
for six months. You can exercise and become straight and
pretty.
Instead of the paraffin treatment, which la not always
feasible, theie Is the massage treatment, whlrh any woman
can perform upon her wrinkles. With her finger tips she
can smooth them away. She can go at them with cold cream
and rub them out of her forehead. She can succeed In driv
ing them away from her brow entirely, and the same way
with the crow's feet around her eyes.
As for the nose, It can also be massaged. Rut not a great
deal can be done for tho nose of a grown person,. This has
been shaped In childhood and must remain as It Is. It can
he Improved a little by massage and manipulation, but not
materially changed.
The face skinning can be managed without the martyr
dom of peeling the face. With a little treatment the old skin
can be tnken off and a new skin put on. There are several
ways of doing this, and the best way In to try all the ways at
once, so that they may work together and accomplish the
desired result.
A woman whose skin was Jlot good formed the habit of
polng over It every night with a carbollised, faoe wash. She
poured oui a basin of water and Into this she dropped a fw
drops of c.'Ulollc. She used fully a gallon of water, while the
drops of carbolic numbered only eight or ten. The druggist
Is the best authority on this matter. This acts as an anti
Septic to the face.
Face Steaming Renews the Skin.
Face steaming will renew the skin, but It makes It tender
and one can scarcely go out the same day. But If one wants
to try It the best way Is to take hot cloths and apply them to
the skin. They should not be hot enmigh to burn, but only
to make the skin hot through and through.
When the face la thoroughly steamed It Is covered with
a lather of soap Jelly, which Is Washed off with soft water
andabyax. And then a little good face cream Is rubbed In.
This c-in be done once a week with the best results.
The face can be made better as to Its texture by going
Over It with the finger tips wet In a benzolnated bath. Take
a quart of Water and drp In enough benzoin to make It
milky. Dash It on the faot Then massage It with the finger
tips. The result will be a hardening of tha muscles and a
contraction of the open pores of the skin.
The treatment of the ears Is a thing that should ba done
In childhood. Hut if one has neglected It, a great deal can
b accomplished by pinning them back, as It la called, and
by keeping them pinned back. There can be made a little
nightcap, all of bandages, which are applied to the ears so
;
i
to a boanL,
Intrt I AvA fHi.t - .
... lal.ml Burgeons were called n for the Job It Is
not at all difficult, but It takes time and patfence. "ho
W,ch 8 "P with camphor and wax and an
2 Vr,'6:1- U " ther? fll,p4 wlt wax? mixture,
which la quickly Injected under the skin.
J A
Improving Nose with Paraffin.
The operation must be quickly performed or the paraffin
will be cool and will, refuse to flow along the line of the
needle. And this requires some art. As soon as it Is under
the skin It Is molded with the finger tips. And more Is put
In. This Is continued until the bridge of the nose is the right
shape. It takes some time and a great deal of patience.
The paraffin operation has been performed upon many
society women and In most cases successfully. It all lies
in getting the wax In under the skin at the right tempera
ture. It must be soft, yet it must harden almost Instantly.
It muat harden so that It will be as firm as the skin, Impossi
ble to melt again or to dissolve. Indeed, it must bo a part of
one's flesh after a few weks.
After getting her nose fixed with paraffin and such fur
rows as were left around the sides of her nose ' and the
temples filled In after the same fashion, this vain French
beauty for she had begun to be beautiful turned her atten
tion to her figure, which was too heavy and too short.
back straight and flat and to Improve her waist line.
The maid testified that, during this time, her. mistress
was Irritable, but not onbe did she give up her grand purpose
of being beautiful. " I would rather die," said she, " than be
I'gly. If I die It will be In a noble cause."
J- J . . .
Willing to Endure All for Beauty.
That her health did no Suffer was due to her ambition
and the power of the mind over the body. She was deter
mined to be handsome, and to become such was the greatest
desire of her life. "I want to be beautiful; V want to be
beautiful," she would say when tired and longing to set up
and walk, or to He In a comfortable soft bed.
But she persevered. And, at the end of six months, sh
rose, took a beauty bath, put on her clothes, which, by the
way, had to be made specially to fit her, and was beautiful.
There was no denying the fact that she had Improved her
appearance a hundredfold. From being a pudgy, scraggljr
round shouldered, pug nosed duckling, she had been changed
Into a Deautlful swan. " Wonderful, wonderful," her friends
exclaimed.
Now the, moral of nil this Is that you can be beautiful If
you want to be. And It Isn't necessary to Suffer martyrdom,
either. Few persons are born as full of defects as this
as to hold them In place. There are straps that hold back
the lobes of the ears, keeping them fiat against the heud. In
time the ears will be less protruding.
As for the figure. It Is so easy to make it good and it Is
such a simple matter to straighten the shoulders, make
the hips slender, and make the chest full, that one cannot
help wondering why there are any poor figures in the world."
The stout woman can diet and exercise. She need not lie
flat upon the floor strapped to a board and she need not take
nor food through a straw. But she can be moderate and
temperate In her tastes and her appetites, with the result
that she will grow better in figure.
Lying flat upon the floor Is fine exercise for the fat
woman, if she will lift her abdomen and try to exercise her
hips and abdomen. She will find It almost unbearable to lie
without a pillow, owing to the fat that has accumulated on
her back. But If she can He flat without a pillow and can
kick her feet In the air for a short time every day she will
find that she Is much Improved by the exercise.
The French woman who became a martyr to her good
looks wanted a delicate waist, and she see-eawed the muscles
of the waist and hips and abdomen for hours a day. It
would be a good thing for every Woman to do this fifteen
minutes a day every woman who Is fat for In this manner
she can reduce and make her waist nice and small.
It Is an excellent plan to take' stock of your defects and
to go over them with an eye to curing them. But always
remember that there is nothing In the world like moderation,
even when one is trying to be beautiful.
Woman's Struggle to Be 'Beautiful Has Last &d for Thousands of Years.
l(s 1
iN this day and age of the world, with an evef
increasing demand for the arts of the beauty
doctor, many people are prone to suppose that
the practice of this profession Is entirely a
modern invention. But since the beginning of
time It has been the Inmost inclination of the
eternal feminine to resort to arts and crafts
for preserving and enhancing personal beauty.
The men of our generation often complain of the time
women spend over the powder box and the curling tongs.
They cannot be persuaded it Is necessary. If It is a coquetry
for a woman to use all the legitimate means at her com
mand for refining her youth and beauty It Is, to say the
least, a rational coquetry. . She who understands it has lis
tened to the divine injunction, " Adorn thyself, remain beau
tiful, that thou mayeat delight the eye and heart of tho man
who Is the support of thine adorable weakness and with
whom thou art to continue the long line of thine ancestors.
It is thy mission to please and charm. Thou art the Meal
In the hard life of man descend not from thy pedestal!"
J Jt
. Pleasing Appearance a Recommendatibn. ,
It seems Impossible for men to realize what their wives
and sweethearts might be without this constant care and at
tention. A pleasing appearance Is said to be the first letter
of recommendation. Nothing Is more powerful than per
sonal beauty, and surely it U a shallow mind which affects to
hold It lightly or to puss It by as transitory and superficial.
It was beauty, "skin deep," if you will, which Inspired the
pencil of Raphael and the chisel of Michael Angelo. Itjie
longs to all ages to youth, to declining years, and even to
death Itself.
Clement of Alexandria assures us the most elegant
women of his time passed the entire day between the mirror
and the comb and kept several servants, whose duty It was
to assist In keeping their beauty in refined elegance and
luxury.
Seneca reproached the Roman women for the time spent
before their mirrors, but he was an exception among tha
men of his day, for history tells us of the ancient Egyptians Aeauty,
and Oreeks, as well as the Romans, who saw nothing do
busing, in paying particular heed to the loast detail of pri
vate life, and attached great value to the beauty of their
, wives and daughters.
Presumably the gentlemen of today have their bibles
thumb-marked at the third chapter of the book of Isaiah
where the prophet of old passed " the Judgment w hich shall
be for the pride of women," as follows:
" Because the daughters of Zlon are haughty and walk
with stretched forth neck and wanton eyes, walking and
mincing us they go and making a tinkling with their feet,
the Lord shall smite with a scab tha crown of the head and
will tuke away the bravery of the tinkling ornaments about
their feet, and their cauls, and their round tires like the
miK.n, the chuins, the bracelets, and the mufflers, the bonitcta.
the r:iamenta of the legs, und the heud bands, the tablets
and the earrings, the wigs und the nose Jowcls, the changea
ble suits of apparel and tha mantles, the wimple and the
crisping pin, the glasses and tha fine linen, and the hoods
and the veils, und instead of a girdle, a rent, and Instead of
well set hair, baldness; and instead of a stomacher, a gird
ing of sackcloth, and burning instead of beauty."
Men of Old Had Eye to Beauty.
The prophet, however, does not preach against the men,
whose apparel was often more gorgeous than that of the
women. Among the old Assyrians men paid more attention
to their beards alone than women gave to their entire toilet.
They were worn long and plaited, although it was quite
cruTimon to see them divided into two or three rows of curls.
Solomon, wisest of kings, not only derived great pleasure
from the glory of his own raiment but praised his numerous
beloveds, especially for the care of their locks, black and
beautiful as a raven's wing.
The first toilet, we may fairly assume, consisted In a
plain bath without soup or towel, followed occasionally, per
haps, by a single adjustment of refractory lockB with the
fingers. This developed rapidly Into a luxuriously appointed
bath, and refractory locks were soon put to rights by an ex
pert hairdresser. The enormous extent, the variety, the
architectural beauty, and the completeness of many of these
ancient baths, gorgeous even In the ruins, have excited the
admiration and wonder of succeeding ages.
In days of old, skilled doctors and wise apothecaries were
kept busy preparing strange potions, wonderful cosmetics,
pastes, and pomades, whtah were secreted In alabaster Jars
on the toilet table of " miladi." Mlludl's dressing rooty was
the holy of holies, where the profane were not admitted, and
here she devoted herself to the practice of delicate. Innocent
sorcery, by which she kept herself amazingly young and
pretty.
The toilet requisites and cosmetics alone of a sultana or
a favorite of the seraglio or harem cost more every year
than would suffice for the whole establishment of an ordi
nary European woman.
Diana of Polctlers, duchess of Valentlnols. the reigning
beauty tit the courts of three successive kings, employed a
chemist constantly and took daily a carefully prepared
potion of soluble gold, which Is said to have preserved her
Nothing was too difficult or disagreeable, in those days, the foam of beer; also In a liquid made from dissolving chalk
"Balm of Cilead" Fust Cosmetic.
In ancient sacred writings we are led to Infer that the
Jews used quantities of precious ointments, spices, and
waters, und many passages can be found in the bible referring
to them. One of the first cosmetic applications of the orient
Is the " balm of GUead " or " balm of Mecca." spoken of so
frequently in the bible. It was expensive, being literally worth
Its weight in gold. Fifteen hundred dollars was (fie price
per pound, but it was used only in minute quantities. Early
In the lust century It was still obtainable, and when Lady
Mary Wortley Montague visited Constantinople she man
aged to procure a bit of this balsam, although it was scarce.
On going to bed she rubbed It thoroughly upon her face, ac
cording to Instructions, and the next morning her Cheeks
were red und swollen, us though she mlght have a dozen
toothaches in the same place. She was much alarmed, but
In a few days tha swelling disappeared, and her friends as
sured her that she was vastly improved In looks.
which assured the Increase of personul charm. Noble women
Of ancient Rome were wont to plaster their faces at night
with a poultice made of bread crumbs and asses' milk, wMch
on being removed in the morning left a freshness and white
ness much prized. Still more disagreeable was the practice
of binding fresh meat, usually veal, upon the face and hands
for the same purpose. The Juices of several fruits, but
preferably the raspberry and strawberry, were lauded as
sovereign washes for the skin, and milk imparted a certain
velvety softness,
Margaret of Navarre, queen of Henry IV. she whose
wedding torches were quenched in the blood of the mas
sacre of St. Bartholomew wore a peculiar complexion mask
at night, which so Irritated her husband that, not being
choice in his expressions, he said to her roundly, not long
after the wedding day:
" Madam, with that confounded black mask on, you look
so much like the devil that I'm always tempted to make the
sign of the cross to drive you away."
JS) j
Queen Leaves a Testimonial.
The most serene queen, Donna Isabella of Hungary, set
great store by a lotion called tincture of rosemary, made
with the best brandy and carefully distilled. She wrote the
recipe for It In her book of hours, and added this note:
" I, Isabella, gouty and infirm, used a tlask of this water
and It had such a wenderful effect that I seemed to grow
young and beautiful. So the king of Poland wished to
marry me, and I did not refuse him oat of love for our
Lord, who, I doubt not, sent me this flusk by the hands of
an angel In the garb of the old hermit from whom I had it."
The, following Is said to be the recipe for a cold cream used
much In. the time of the beautiful Gabrielle:
" Near the last of May take one pound of pure fresh but
ter, put in a white basin, and expose to t' e sun, well protected
from dust and dirt. Wh.n It is melted, pour over It some
plantain water and mix together. Repeat this operation
several times a day and for several days, until the butter Is
as white as snow. The last day add a little orange flower and
rose water. This cream Is to be applied at night and removed
carefully In the morning."
Here Is one dating from the time of the crusades a
beauty secret said to have been brought fn,m Palestine by a
brave knight who was beloved by the sultana:
" Take out the yolks of six hard boiled egs and replace by
myrrh and powdered sugar In equal parti. Put the ends from
which the yolks have been taken together again; then place
the six eggs on a plate before the fire. Mix the resulting
hould with thirty-two grammes of fut pork. This mixture
forms a pomatum, with which the face Is covered In the
morning. . Let it dry and then wipe it oft carefully."
A most repulsive cosmetic but on which sume Roman
dames of antiquity esteemed as most precious, was the blood
of the young hare.
During the sixteenth century the water In hleh beans
had been boiled was used as a complexion wash, and this
farinaceous water is entitled to all the fame It possesses.
The ancient Gauls, whose beautiful color was a subject of so
much envy to the patrician Romans, washed their faces In
in vinegar. Some of our ancestors, who were carerui or meir
complexions, wore In winter masks made of blnck velvet, to
guard the face from extreme cold, and replaced them during
the heat of summer by silk ones.
An old Italian recipe for obliterating the Injurious effects
of salt air and sunshine Is to bathe the face with the white
cf an egg well beaten. Let It dry on the skin and rinse It off
after fifteen minutes. This treatment must be repeated three
or four times and always at night before retiring.
Eat Drugs for the Complexion.
The eating of tho drug arsenic haS long been Indulged In
for the whitening of the skin. The constant use of this im
parts a peculiar waxy whiteness admired by some, but It
surely must interfere with the functions of the stomach
after a time. Among the peasants of the Austrian Alps the
use of arsenic has been common since time Immemorial. They
begin at the age of 18 or 20 to' take small portions four or
five Umes a week, and continue the habit as they grow older,
Increasing the quantity but not the frequency of the dose.
The tale is recorded of a certain woman who had been
whitening her skin with " trinitrate of bismuth " " magis
tery Of bismuth," our grandmothers called It and who
chanced to bathe, while thus whitened, In the Harrogate
sulphurous springs. If It be a fact that the woman n ques
tion went into a Harrogate bath of sulphurous water while
sklnpalnted with bismuth maglstery, then It must have been
true What Is recorded in the tale that she, in one Instant,
turned as black as any Ethiopian wherever the pigment was
luld on.
In the days of our own grandmothers, the panacea for all
complexion ills was the application of a decoction made from
soaking wild tansy In buttermilk, an extremely Innocent and
cffectlvs cosmetic.
Among the other things resorted to for the enmhasls of
personal beauty, was the use of black court plaster by the
Frenvh. It was cut in various shapes and worn upon the
face, the shape and position of each piece having some partic
ular meaning. This is a coquetry founded on the law of
contrasting colors, the white object being set off In bold
relief by contrast with the black. The Chinese women
affected bluck teeth, the Persluns red, and the Japanese gilt.
The Spanish and Italian women tinged the edges of their ears
a pule pink. In some countrie sfcipeclal attention was glvn
the finger nails. Excessively long nails are still considered
a mark of beauty by the Chinese, and the Persians, being
fond of rosy nails, tint theirs to the desired shade.
Among many anrlent EgyptJans, female feet were given
a share of attention and rare. Women walked little. Wives
of Mussulmans lived retired lives within their homes.
Powdering of Hair Ancient.
The custom of powdering the hair dates back as far as In spirit If not In years, and every bit as pretty as Is possible
the sixteenth century, and was first Introduced by the nuns with all the legitimate means at her command. If she Is
in French convents. Those who had uecaBlon to leave the always kind and gentle, always ready to give to others tho
cloisters for any reason were wont to powder their hair, so as sunniest side of her nature, thus will she find that maglo
to make It appear gray and give them a venerable look. The fountain of youth for which the fabled Spaniards sea -ied
fashionable dames were so struck with the novel effect of Florida In vain. '
whlto powder on dark hair that they soon appropriated the
device as one of the arts of the worldly toilet. Out of this
grew the use of tints In the hair. The Roman women often
used blue powder, and later, In 1800, Empress Eugenie set the
fashion of using gold powder.
Rome under the empire and Greece during the time of
Pericles were seized with a mania for golden hair. The
belles and fops of the day devised several methods whereby
black locks might be changed to golden yellow, but bleaching
did not always succeed. Consequently, quite a trade was
established with the fair haired tribes beyond the Alps, who
sold their locks to Latin merchants,' to be worn on the heads
of Roman dandles.
Many n dame dampened her raven tresses In the strong
est of muriatic acid and sat In tho sun to bleach her hair to
the coveted yellow. Otherr used lye and afterward anolnt.d
their heads with oil made from goat fat, ashes of the beech
tree, and certain yellow flowers.
The itinerant barber, who passed down and out when
people ceased to use powder In their hair; was quite a per
sonage In his day. He went from house to house, armed
with a soap bowl to fit the chin, powder boxes, pomatum,
and puffs, was always a newsmonges and a , gratuitous
Bcandal bearer.
When 'wigs were In vogue, the Roman dames had In their
wardrobes as many wigs as costumes, and when the choiee
of a wig was made It was necessary to arrange the eyebrows,
h.shes and complexion in harmony. It was then that the
slaves were specially charged with the makeup of the face
.a delicate operation, called by Cicero, " Medlcamenta can
dorls et ruborls." Imagine a husband possessing a wife of
various hues and shades! Small would be his excuse for
tjolng astray In that event. His fancy might have full play,
and when he was seized with an unconquerable desire for
change he would have merely to ask his wife to change wigs.
Devices for Beautifying Eyes.
There were some cunning devices In vogue among the
belles of the old world for giving expression to the eye. The
most reckless of them were wont to place a single drop of
that deadly poison, prosaic acid, In tho bottom of a wine
glass utvd hold Jt against the eye for two or three seconds,
or, more rashly still, they would take a small quantity
a piece not larger than a grain of rice of an ointment con
taining thru mortal drug atropla and rub It on tha brow.
Eacli of these nim supMised to give clearness and brilliancy,
expand the pupil, and Impart a fascinating fullness and
mellowness to the eye. Certain slightly pungent and volutlle .
perfumes, such as oil of thyme, were occasionally worn on
the handkeichlef, causing the eye to glitter and sparkle. The
ije was m:tde to appear large, full, and almond shaped bv
the us of a tine pencil dipped In antomonlral sulphur, or
Egyptian black, rubbed upon the lids along the angle.
But, after all., the surest means by which woman may
acquire and preserve the gift of pleasing, Is to be young
J'
,