J (rm J'c-,
fa r I fit f:
if mm a A
Give ycuT bail as ina2h. air
and sunshine as possiLle,
We-encls cf lair art split Irak ii
repidjyto Temove the Irckexi part.
R9. SfENDER CLAT, formerly Miss Pauline
J 1 Alitor, daughter of the expatriated American.
iVa I William Waldorf Astor, has astonished smart
lv I society of London by the new color of her hair.
It has been changed from a dark, unsatisfac
tory hue to & remarkable new brown a topa
brown, the same color as the brilliant Brazilian
Jewel of which the young woman has a whole
apronful.
The daughter of the former American multimillionaire,
whose marriage to Capt. Spender Clay, the dashing army
man, was reported to have been so displeasing to her wealthy
father that he was tempted to remain on this side of the At
lantic during the wedding festivities, recently appeared at a
dinner with her hair a new color.
The dinner guests gasped and then wondered. While Mrs.
Clay was reckoned one of the nicest looking young women of
London, she has never been classed among the noted beauties,
and her hair was not a particularly striking feature.
" Goodness," ejaculated a woman guest, " Isn't Mrs. Clay's
hair beautiful? But what color Is It?"
Her companion was Mrs. Cornwallis West, but the latter
remained discreetly silent The woman on the other side,
however, answered the question.
" It Is the new topas brown," she said.
And a topas brown It was. It exactly matched the won
derful Jewels from Brazil. It was brilliant, and almost shone
In the artificial light of the room. The color was rich, too,
disproving the Idea that the hair had been tinted or dyed.
The enhancing of Mrs. Clay's beauty had been brought
about by a treatment by an expert hairdresser. He had used
no harmful drugs, but the hair had been urged to bloom
a the gardener urges the rose to flourish, and lot a marvel
ous effect had been attained.
Topaz Colored Hair the Rage.
Mrs. Spender Clay let her friends Into the secret, and
just now the topas colored hair Is essentially the smart thing
in London. Women marvel that suoh results have been at
tained by the mere exercise of science and without bleach
ing, dyeing, or tinting.
The question of tinting and dyeing the hair has long been
a vexing one with the fair sex.
" You do not advise me to tint my hair," exclaimed a
woman horrified beyond measure at a suggestion of the hair
dresser. I
In her mind's eye she pictured the awful tawny hair, the
hair of the chemical blonde, the hair which looks like a lion's
mane without any of the glossy properties which are found
In the lion's hair.
" It is bad taste. .1 would not change the color of my hair
for worlds," exclaimed she.
But there are other ways of changing the hair, other ways
of tinting it, other ways of making It glossy, other ways of
making it more attractive than by bleaching it.
First, It must be understood that all natural hair Is not
pretty, and to suppose It Is leads one Into a mistake. All
women are not endowed with nice hair. There are women
whose own hair Is not becoming. It la dull; It has grown
gray; it is a mouse color; It is far from being either pretty
or becoming.
Hair to be at Its best should shine. " Tour hair must
bloom," said a London hairdresser, a man who prepares
women for court presentation. "It has never shined, but It
should be made to shine."
To the same customer a Parisian hairdresser aaid: " Tour
hair must wave. Straight hair may be pretty, but as a
matter of fact It seldom is."
mossy waving hair should be the lot of every woman, bu
how Is It to be made glossy and waving? To this It may be
replied that all hair Is different and that each variety of hair
requires Its own treatment. The treatment which benefits
one kind of hair will spoil another.
Hair that Is dry Is almost always filled with dandruff.
This lies next to the scalp and Is unpleasant to see. It does
not really Injure the scalp. But It sifts down and Is not nice
or well groomed. Tet how can It be helped where the hair
Is dry?
Here Is a cure and, white using It, the hair Is benefited
greatly. What Is more, Its color Is Improved, and often the
tone of the hair is made better, so that It has more life and
springiness.
"Shampoo the hair In a good egg shampoo. Then rinse it
a thousand times "to quote a London hairdresser. " And,
when It Is all rinsed, dry It wi11.
" Now comes the final touch. Part off the hair In the
middle, making a long parting right from the middle of the
forehead down to the nape of the neck. Take a little almond
oil, moisten the finger tips with It, shake them to take off the
superfluous drop and gently ' spat ' the parting. Go over it
lightly but thoroughly until the scalp shines a little.
Treatment Will Bring Tone.
" Part off the hair again and go over the next parting In
the same manner. Do not use more than a suspicion of oil,
not enough to drip from the finger tips, and do not, on any
account, get a particle upon the hair. This Is the best known
treatment for the scalp.
" Dry hair will never shine, but after the scalp Is treat-d
It will begin to be oily and It will gradually take on a little
gloss. Repeat and It will be positively lustrous.
" Women whose hair Is grow ing gray and who do not
want gray hair can get around the matter by having the
hair dyed. This will restore Its color. Now comes the treat
ment of the scalp to keep It from coming In gray again, for
the hair must be persuaded to come In dark, or In Its natural
color, once more.
"The treatment Is almost identical with the treatment
for dry hair. It is dry hair which grows gray first, and to
keep It from getting gray the castor oil treatment Is recom
mended. " I tried evesy known remedy on this woman's head.
Washing it made It drier, made It fly about more. Oiling It
made It terrible. I did not know what to do. I could dye it,
but It would still be thin and rough.
" One day I thought of a remedy I had seen tried In Ber
lin. I called for a handful of loose cornmeal, and, parting
oft her hair, I scattered It through It. Then I brushed 't
lightly but well to get out all the cornmeal. The result was
magical. After a week's application It became silvery gray
hair, the prettiest hair I ever saw.
" Where hair is extremely dry it should be brushed often
alth cornmeal. If the hair has no oil In it there Is nothing
so foolish as to wash It, for there Is little to be washed out
except the dust And this can be taken out with the dry
meal. I have often tried this successfully upon dry hair. It
seems to restore the natural oil and to make the hair lighter
in color.
" The secret of washing dark oily hair Ilea In the rinsing.
This should be done with hot water. A great many waters
should be used and the wafer should he as hot as feels agree
able to the scalp. But It must not scald, by any means.
"In all the rinsing waters except the last there should be
a pinch of borax, for borax cuts the grease. The last water
should be entirely clear and hot.
" Few people realise how dirty the hair gets. Often that
. .
;.' r' y" , ,-.i.vV.k
li, n f t -- rr 'fr, WW
l V " -V" ' fc i i y, t
V'--' ' .v. .. '. .
I II r' -K - i .!'''f .u R'-'
Sg3 1 r V
4& k .;'4!'!-
i
StimJale he roots of &e kaip
which seems to be iliirk hnlr woiild be much lighter If It were
clean. In this way one can change the tone of one s hair, If
one may so call the process.
Ways to Bleach the Hair.
"Women who !int to blench the hilr a little can do so
In harmless ways. But it should be done carefully and little
at a time. The trouble Is thnt women never like to do things
t-y halves. The woman whose hnlr Is so dark as to be almost
black will beseech you to mnke her Into a silvery blonde,
while th. woman whose hair Is rbnny will ask you to turn It
ted. She wants too sharp a contrast.
" A little harmless coloring onn be done without difficulty.
I hud a ensc. thnt of a woman who was a blonde, but her hair
was a pale, dirty, uncertain dral). At the risk of n great deal
of adverse criticism I will till you thnt I had hrr head shnm
pooed. After the washlnit I applied n little peroxide of
hydrogen. I diluted It half strength, so that It gnve nothing
more than a gloss. It did not really bleach the hair at all,
but It made it shine. Then 1 waved It by the Parisian
method.
"I do not advise changing the hair, but I have taken C
cents' worth of henna leaves und have steeped them In a
gallon of water. After the shampoo i have taken the hnlr
and dipped It In this solution. This will slightly redden the
hair that Is medium brown, putting red lights Into It.
"But by far the best way and the most satisfactory wsy
tc alter the color of the hnlr Is by treatment. Treat your
hair and you can make It beautiful Is a Rood precept for any
woman to learn. Hair Is the most abused of all one's endow
ments. Yet It is mourned the most after It is gone. The
woman who at 40 sees her hair thin, and at 50 finds It has
departed, has no person to thank but herself. She has neg
lected one of her most precious possessions."
Aster
opgtiSbr Cite
Seepwifli WirToos-
Cee9S09S3S933tS3SS3SSS9
MothieivIEef'iixgoAlAdoptioii of (SHilclren'iriHe (Santupport
STRANGE feature of the "orphanage" at-
I tached to the new Jewish Home for the Friend
fJSk I less In Chicago is that many of the little ones
Jg Jjt I instead, of being motherless are friendless, be
cause they are Buffering from an embarrass
ment of riches In the way of real mothers
and " would be " foster mothers. That the
love of children, which was In the hearts of
the daughters of Israel in the days of Sarah, still beats
strong enough so that almost every modern Jewish woman
longs to take the child of another if she has not one of her
own Is shown by the many little ones here that are coveted
by eager foster mothers.
There is, however, here, as in all orphanages, a barrier
In the way In the mother love, which is Intense to the point
of what Is many times regarded as supreme selfishness by
those In charge of the little ones.
Mothers Are Too Selfish.
" We have more homes open to us than we can supply
with children," says the matron who Is In charge of the
large number of children who are soon to be moved from
the old home near Lincoln park. " For almost every un
fortunate Jewish baby there waits a foster mother who Is
both eager and anxious to take home with her a little child.
But we can't let the children go on account of the selfish
love of the real mothers. We could give away dosens, and
nearly all Into rich or at least good homes. If it were not for
this. Sometimes also the point of law which makes It Impos
sible to give away a child without the parents' consent
operates where the parents are not to blame. A case which
we bave now in litigation is one In which the child la the
sufferer to an unusual extent. It Is that of little Solomon
I'etoeky, or Solly as everybody calls him. It la nearly a
year now since Solly has oeen the idol and the coveted pos
session of a well to do couple named Schmidt. Solly's parents
are In the insane asylum, although they were driven there by
poverty and trouble rather than by a taint in the blood
which would be liable to descend to their offspring. Just as
long as they are there, unless we can get a special order
of the court, Solly will have to stay here insteud of getting
Into the home of which he would be considered the Joy and
light Every Sunday the Schmidts come to see Solly, and
they think everything of him, and will not give him up for
any other little one. He calls himself ' Solly Schmidt,' which,
perhaps, he will be some time, as be Is fortunate In having
persons who have set their hearts upon him enough to wait
to see if It can't be made to come out right."
"I should think they did set a lot of store by Solly,"
sighed a " little mother " of 10, Rebekah by name, who helped
in the institution. "They come and take him out to ride
and they bring him things, and they are Just like the fathers
and mothers that rich children have."
J
Must Rely on Court's Aid.
Rebekah Is a motherly little maid who has had chances
to be adopted which bave passed by, as Solly's will do If the
Four
IT J
Cabes wno nave
r f ? V- A'-viJ JUL -
r , t ,r?jjr l -X x Dolly wAo wovJdfe
court doesn't step In and help him. She stays at the home
now and pays her way by what she can do to help with the
other children. She came In In response to a message sent
. by the matron and was leading two queer little figures that
she called " Eether and Henrietta."
Esther is and Henrietta Is 4, on which account Esther
took hold of Henrietta's other hand and marshaled her In,
even though she herself was the smaller of the two. "Esther
Is a pretty little thing with light hair and long lashes and
blue eyes and a gentle dignity that Is unmistakable even
at fl. Henrietta, far from pretty, Is a strange and elf like
little creature.
"The father Is an actor," said the matron, "and the
mother died over a year ago, and for months the children
were shut up In the top stoiy of the Revere house. Some
times If their futher came home they had dinner, and oftener
still they didn't get anything until he came late at night
When they first came to the home and sat down to the bread
and milk supper thatwas given to the rest of the babies,
Esther objected to the fare politely and distinctly. We al
ways had beer and cheese with out bread. We don't like
milk,' she said."
Not so long ago there was a young Jewish woman who
fell In love with Esther's blue eyes and wanted her so badly
that she was willing to take Henrietta, too, If the father
would consent, so that they would not be separated. But
the father had promised the mother " not to give away
the children "and, although for long time he has not sent
any money, yet he will not be untrue to the promise txuetid
by "mother love," even though the result is that then
7tvo (faicjchfes
atoption.
little ones who have seen a bit of stage life are the loneliest
.l lonely waifs. When Sunday comes they are the only
or.es who have never yet had any company, and it Is Esther's
one spoken wish that "some day Henrietta and me will have
a visitor."
Clings to Her Children.
"There are three more children here," suld the matron,
" whose mother bus gone out to Colorado for consumption.
She Is without money and there is no hope, but when we
wrote her ubout an offer muds by a rich Jewish family to
take two of the children and find a place for the other she
wrote back quickly: For God's sake don't give away my
children. I will soon be well enough to work and take care
V7LLVJ7Af HMAYffr7'7 ZWf WfO tPJT
srrwurDS'D w m& tows' wwle thm?
of hein.' She will never be any better, but, poor thing, they
are all she has."
" Perhaps one of the must unusual cases we have," said
Mrs. Stirling, who has taken charge of the new home. "Is
(hat of a former music hall dinger who came here from Eng
land, who Is 111 in a west shle hospital, am) who had her four
children' sent to us. They are all atlraetlv-e and have a talent
fur music, which they get directly from hi r, and we would
have no trouble in phielng them In rich homes. Mill it Is her
one wIhIi that so long uh who lives I hey may he kept at tho
home, so thnt when they are brought to hcc her they may
still be 'her children.' Although she cannot get well, she
In mi fond of them that there Is no one who has the heurt
to refuse to do as dim wishes. Thcro are, however, many
mothers of absolute uiiwoiiIiIimss whose claim on their chil
dren Is Just as emphatic, when there Is any chance of letting
some one else have them. In spite of the worthless lives they
lead they are hungry to see them sometimes, und, although
the children would l a thousand times belter eft without
them, it is many times Impossible 4u give them over Into
care which we know would bo of tlie best."