Knnrlrn of Fall Fashions.
KW Viihk (Vit. 3. Thn autcmo-
TO" I bile ha had much In do with (he
I evolution of the rain oat. Pre
senting once a shapeless cut and
surfece of indifferent back.
this old protective garment has within
recent seasons taken on surprising bciuty.
All the good h ive now the nveloplng
looser.f.s of garments fur motoring, but
they are shapely to an astonishing degree,
and certain con In of extra generous lines
Bi'fin really sp pnrtid on large, lino WitniM,
The now ruin co:it In not, in was Iho
old one, of sombre uml urilx coming hue.
Tlx.1 richest colors ilistlngui h coats for
day use, and for evening wr there are
rubbered Hllk coats us delicately tln'el as
opera wrnpa. Thiso laat are especially
g'nerous In cut, with great flowing or basr
sleeves mudu to cover the blggeit under
one,-and pointed and circular cape co'lars
which hide necessarily clumsy shoulders.
Homo of the moat charming of thew even
ing coats ure nil white, with whlto velvet
collars, though there are delicate violets
and gold and white striped designs wlich
eet-u equally dressy. Upon a pure white
rubber rout 11 narrow pil ing of black may
match the velvet collar, and thM Is thought
to be a smart combination. Another even
ing novelty la In pale blue and white, with
a blue velvet collar and huge pearl but
ton. Importer declare that such coats for
the majority of the models arc of French
and English manufacture may envelop
the most -fragile evening toilet wlthoat In
Jury. They nro copied by domestic makers
and ure much cheaper in the home ahapo
tlian when Imported.
The buttons of nl' these coats are enor
mous. On the- automobile rubbers, which
ere in a class by themselves, they appeir
lu white and smukod url against rich
reds, blues and I rowns, nnd ure us big as
butter platts. Save for the buttons, surh
coats aro unlriinmed for they depend en
tirely upon a swagger cut for effect. They
are double-hrcusted and have high storm
collars, which, when turned up, hold tlio
face in a pointed calyx becoming to a
pretty countenance.
Hound gathered or vlsored caps in the
sumo material go with many of ttuae au
toinodlle coats, or no there Is an at
tache hood to lift over the hat.
Hut the Interest of most women (enters
In the waterproof for every-day use. With
the rains of autumn- coming un, a gar
ment which will insure the neatness of
tho gown beneath is a necessity, for rain
Is no longer a bar to the promenade, to
hopping, to tho theater. Possibly this Is
because rain coats have become so de
lightful. Heglnnlng with materials, it seems to bo
the etiquette of the pretentious places
never to cull rainproof textures "crave
nelte." Materials ure either rubber or
showerproof Hllk or showerproof cloth. If
you ask for a rubber coat for footweur
you will bo titured nt, as If you hud just
proposed to break ono of tho cujnmund
ineiits. Rubber ruin coats, you are told,
are only worn en volture (In vehicles), und
to wear one out walking would bo u serious
Indiscretion. In other words, ulthough a
superb driving gurmcnt, the rubber coat Is
considered "fust" on foot.
The thowerproof cloths ure thought to
provide the neatest and most practical
wear, und the iron grays, long seen, ure
much approved. Hut the new weaves dif
fer entirely from the old ones. Instead
at the former pluin surfaces, there are
hair stripes, little checks and fancy plaids.
The buttons of such couts, und of other
trim, neut models, ure mude of the same
material und ure very small. Except in a
modest trio upon tho sleeve, perhaps, they
are often not seen at all, for u number of
tho single-breasted coats close with lly
fronts.
A new and dashing mode I on this order
Is the usual loose suciue, cut with tho
yoke and upper part of sleeves in one. To
tho long shoulder cupes thus formed big
puffs ure stitched, the lapped seams which
attaches them proving quite ornamental
around the arm. The design has a slot
earn at tho back, lining it slightly Into
the tlgure. The coat is silk lined to the
waist, and some of the sleeves ure pro
vided with silk under ones, whose draw
Strings hold them close about the waist.
The price of such a coat Is $10, which
does not seem dear when you find out that
a number of the pule evening ones go ,ip
as high as $75. A similar price Is asked
for the elegant automobile rubber coats,
but smart models ran be had for $Mi. The
usual fine rain coat Is made to order, tho
loose styles needing tho most careful cut
ting and fitting to produce the right effect.
lUady-made coats adjusted In style fit
much mure readily and may be bought for
bull the price of thus made to order, but
unless the model Is a good one f.ha result
Is not usually si pleasing.
A group of store models, carefully se
lected, display prices, cuts and textures
suited to the nvernge means nnd wearer.
The rain cont, which may be both dressy
and simple, Is always desirable. It Is ad
mirable In checked showerproof silk, in
blue and black. The model is very loose,
thn long skirt hanging almost in folds
about the figure. Tho big sleeves are vol
uminous and flowing in cut and the neck
is furnished with a mannish little collar
and revers Made In the name way and
offered at the same price $15 nre coats of
showerproof silks, la rich Scotch plaids,
In a number of thee le-s expensive coits,
both locf-e and half fitting, a Norfolk belt
ing of the back Is a feature, and big pack- '
eta are pet In the Fides.
The rulny-dny dre,s is an Innovation In
str.rm Kaiments. It I.i a thrt-sklrted, Nor-fclk-eo.ited
costume, charmingly becoming
to youthful figure. A tailor of reputation
declares that several tmart women have
, ordortd Buch dresses for walking. In ths
us'ial phower-proof textures. A deJIclously
dainty suit Is of gray and black s'rlm?,
with only heavy stitching for ornament,
and a treaft and hip patch pocket.
Other little rainy-day gowns deviled on
somewhat similar lines and shown by this
7
RAINY DAY DRKSS OK GRAY AND 15 LACK IN SUOWIOU I'R001-
black and white and brown and white.
I'luid and striped wool compose others.
In forms highly suggestive of the old
ulsters, for these textures nro not rubbered
at the luck, as ure the silks. Tor this
reuium the simple wool materials are pie
ferred by many as being cooler than tho
rubber treated wools and silks, nnd there
is no denying that such models hang better
than do the others. There Is a crumpled
and creased look ubout the silk garments
us If they were occasionally used for night
gowns, but this does not detract greatly
from their elegant appearance.
The plain wools In ulster-like cuts nre
of less artistic pretension., but they ure
trim, stylish and more rea-sonaMe In prli e.
Three coats, respectively, In plaid, che ked
and diagonal wools, are offered at the pop
ular price of $2i each. A shoulder cape Is
tshown by two dealers, that of one oddly In
cluding the front In the cut of this detail.
The moderate-sized sleeve ef both are In
coat shape, with square turn-back cuffs.
The high storm collars are nude to look
em well down as up.
tailor might be worn at any autumn out I as,
for they hive n golf or mountain 1 ok.
Soft Ino hats, pi inly banded ix swuthed
with veils or leather scarfs, wire shown to
go with them. Sailor hats of the same
shower cloth aa the diess, with patent
leather trimmings, were also seen, as well
as the ordinary black patent leather
sailors worn by many horse-women.
Hut us to tho ruin.y-d.iy hat, anything
fairly simple and compact may be worn.
The main thing necessary is security
ngalnst the never-Wtwtry winds. Knvclop
Ing veils come In smartly for this purpose-
chiffon veils long enough to bundle the)
head and hut und throat. In Introducing
these veils the automobile has done women
a great service. They aro extremely be
coming and aro worn any and everywhere,
Feverul of the good tailors announce their
intention of making up practical walking;
costumes from shower-proof wools. A
model at one place showed the round,
pUtited skirt and long, loom coat with
belted back. Introduced In tho summer.
This design, which la bsj&mlns; very pop
ular, la shown In regulation walking suits
In all manner of stout mater!) I.
MARY DEAN.
From T'nnlilon's Notebook.
A fancy has displayed Itself for capes and
three-quarter coats In a loud heck tweed.
Walking skirts will Just touch the ground
nnd the Jackets will be tight fitting und
long.
Broadtail velvet, which Is res'ly crushed
Velvet, is one of the coming staffs for outer
wraps.
Whaleboned petticoats ure common
enough. From these to crinoline proper is
not a far cry.
There have been introduced of lute, from
Victorian times, the low shoes that button
over at the tides.
Holt makes of velours, us well as fancy
chiffon velvets, will bo used lor dresses,
mantles und millinery.
Old-fashioned lavender silk, which brides
of u half century ago wire wont to revel
iu, again comes fashionably forward.
Tartrn tweeds arc quite the idto.it for
autumn tailor-mudes, in blue and green,
brown and yellow und quiet mixtures.
A lace handkerchief makes an cxee.!l.nt
Jabot by folding it cornerwise, turning tl.a
upper point so us to fall a little above tho
under one.
The taffeta gown Is an indispensable
change from the muslins and luces of sum
mer. Kverybody has at least one of these
dresses in her wardrobe.
The owner of even a bit of real laco is
nowadays making the most :f her posses
sion, lor scarcely any costume i J seen with
out some lace decoration.
The revived fashion for mounting pre
cious stones In an invisible setting is Illus
trated by sets of safety pins, each en
crusted with a different stone, arranged in
rows.
White, putty color and pale gray cJcths
make the smarter coats, und white cloth
with a faint tinge of palest blu? known as
sine white, Is extraordinarily lash unable.
Touches of color are often admitted in nar
row cuffs and revers.
The use of veils for hats has brought cut
veils which are only draperies. 'i ney are
pretty und in excellent colors. There uro
bright colored flowered designs in black,
with dots in the pattern raised a little,
and with Inch-wide plain black silk edges.
Other pretty veils are black und white,
white on block or black on white, and nuna
is more than translucent.
A pretty little suit for the young girl is
made of pink flowered lawn, the design
pinall und set in narrow stripes defined
with hair lines In black. The frock is
trimmed with square medallions of em
broidery, one row set around the lower
edge of the skirt cornerwise, forming points
which are edged with narrow Vul lace.
Two rows of the lace-edged medallions
trim the waist. A pretty feature of tho
gowr. Is the belt nnd bands which finish
the short sleeves. Tho bands are of the
same material and run under one thick
ness is pink ribbon, which shows through,
and at the waist wide ends are brought
out and tie In a bow at the back.
A SKIN OP BCAliTV 13 A .TOY FOREVER.
DR. T. FELIX OOUllAJI' OKIKNTAIi
CHEAM, OK MAGICAL, JUKAUTIF1KH
KemoYM Tan, rlinpleg,Frtcklf18v
Bint vrcry fluuiiau
OM beautv, fciul
llrflM detection. It
ins fti4X)tl tho tret
of 56 y-ani, and Is
co liarmlces vk
tiatu it to be sura
It is rroperl mude.
Accept do counter
feit of slmtlaf
name. br. I.. A.
B.i v re iai'1 to a
la.y or mo csur.
ton ( patient )t
'Ah jou lailloi
will u o I hem. I
recomraeud
'Gouraud's Cream
S the leant harmful of all the tkln preparationi.1
Kor ale hj all )niKgiu and fancy Cuoiie Deulurs
In the l. 8.. r'anadan. and Knrone.
FERD. T. HOPKINS, Prop'r. S7 Great Jonas 8t, N. t
He! CJ IL. W
v.
- " " -sss 111
I! BAKE R BRO S 3
ENGRAVING CP.
mm