Tb Oar Apearel of rlr Kerfy."
EW YORK, June 10. In the heyday
of her charms every woman vow
that when (he get to b 40 she
wlU dress like 40. But when that
time comes ah changes her mind.
"The truth Is," declare a dressmaker of
note, "that few women of fashionable pre
tensions ear to dreis as suits their years.
Often the whIUst heads will take to fool
ishly fay bats, and figures which have lost
their grace squeeze Into waists whose tight
ness displays every defect. Consequently
those women who wish to appear young ore
made to iwm really older, for nothing Is so
aging as colors and effects too youthful for
one's years."
But, notwithstanding this tendency, the
shops and private makers have always con
sidered the needs of elderly wearers, and
styles now Include effects as well suited to
the old as to the young. These are the gun-nu-tal
grays, the shoulder capes with stole
ends, under sleeves and poke bonnets.
The last aro Parisian novelties and In the
larger shapes the pokes may be worn by
maids still In their teens. Thorn for women
who are no longer blooming- are less eccen
tric in size and shape, and are trimmed
more staidly, for the "young" pokes ore
almont theatrically "1X30" In genre. Gener
ally, for old and young, they are made of
very coarse straws, sometimes with narrow
ribbon bindings, and the other trimming
put on to creato a quaint look.
But really old women those who are con
servative in dress prefer the small flat
bonnets long worn. Ruffling becomingly
about the face, many of these Include a
slight tall of lace or a shower of buds or
grosses at the back, and narrow velvet rib
bon Is still preferred for tho strings and
llttlo bow under the chin. Crin (horsehair
braid) Is a very stylish medium for such
bonnets, which show all the rich violets and
dim grays of the season.
Headgear for women neither old nor
young of ages between 33 and 60 Include
flat toques without strings and medium
sized hats whose brims are without much
flare or undulation. These are variously
trimmed, but a becoming feature of the
season la to match the lacs veil to tho hat
brown with brown, violet with violet, gray
With gray, etc. This fashionable wrinkle
smoothes ' away those, which nature has
planted beneath the veil, for colored nets
ever the face are rejuvenating.
Other devices followed by milliners for
tho softening of lines are fluffy underbrlm
trimmings for hats, as well as wWe chiffon
or lace or net strings. Sometimes there
way be only a single senrf, which, coming
from the bock of the hat. wraps several
thrifts around th throat and at last falls,
beck or front, in a wide square end. A frill
Of laoe around the edge of the brim Is a
softening trick with other dressy hata.
First and foremost in the discussion of
the costume, with any age, la the need of
street dress which will admit of both
comrort and a smart appearance, A well
tnade tailor gown supplies this necessity
With perfect taste for elderly wearers.
They may Introduce upon the coat such
softening touches as seem necessary
For Instance, the neck of many severely
tailored Jackets Is often cut out to show
circle of white, treated with a bit of
Color and subdued with black. This treat
ment In a cult or band will also appear
upon the sleeves, and It Is wonderful how
tts alight radiance will Illuminate a grave
- get-up,
A tailored costume of gun metal gray
Panama cloth Is relieved In this way with
whit silk worked with black French knots
and 'edged with violet A circular band
about the neck of the coat and the flaring
cuffs are made of this, with sleeve falls
f whits laoe.
The model of coat and skirt especially
considers the form which has lost its elas
ticity. The coat, which Is semi-loose and
Inserted at the back with a square of
pleats, Is single-breasted and falls some
ten inches below the waist. The apron of
tho gored skirt is extremely narrow, and
all the seana are lapped. A bonnet of
violins straw, trimmed with the same
olor, will be found effective with such a
Suit.
Not a few of the practical d reuses worn
by gray-haired and younger women are
f brilllantina, sometimes with th bodice
assuming cape effects at the shoulders.
With pleats at each side of a plain and
very narrow .gore, the skirt for such a
bodice frequently escapes the ground all
avound. Heavy machine stitching, dons)
tn close rows. Is a feature of many of these
gowns, and' In some of the shades of brown
the brilllantlns has a dassling lustra.
Mors colors and delicately figured weaves
are, observed la tho nsw mohairs than
tain black, for black to not much admired
m of her charm, every woman vow, imV.RW J Ik VI 1 ?V1'1 l'f ' mTTSN. 1 1 1 1 8 ff ff If. VWI V f ttft
imm fawn nm mimw vjmvjmuim,mn
WAVl?- MWAMiA IIV.I IftVKlV Witt. IWiMlW IB 1 1 f
now except for rich materials, and even if
tho gown Is black, some color appears In
the bonnet. Often, Indeed, the bonnet for
a black dress Is all In color, made perhaps
of small violet or blue flowers, or of autumn-tinted
follnge with velvet trimmings.
But to go back to skirts with narrow
apron gores, and especially those whose
aide panels are lapped over the front, not
sewed to it. Such sorts are caled "petticoat
skirts," and are much in vogue for old
and young, though In trained shape they
seem more suited to gray hair and the dig
nity of years.
8qme pretty old women who have taken
to them for grand dinner wear carry the
same plcturesqueness to the bodice, which
hows concealing fichus of soft lacs and
TWO LATH MODELS OF EVENING Q
elbow sleeves billowing with volants of
th same. Supple silks and satins are pre
ferred for toes elegant evening gowns. In
silver grays, violets and ashes of rose
tints, while th hair eornbs may be studded
With rhlnestonea,
For dressy day wear, - a silk 'gown is
also acknowledged to be the correct thing
for elderly wearers, and ail the soft silks
of the season are used for such costumes.
They are fashioned rather plainly, and
frequently show shoulder capes of the same,
trimmed with narrow velvets or ribbon
bands or bias pipings, which may orna
ment the skirt.
Sometimes a grave silk gown will be oft-'
set by a cape of chiffon or net or lace, for
a light covering of some sort Is demanded
by almost all oldish women, and If lac
Is used it may be dyed tho sam shad as
' th gown material. Gray mescaline, self
figured, composes a charming visiting dresa
for a woman of 60, with gray "snow lace"
forming a round shoulder cape with stole
ends. The bonnet Is of gray straw, with
gentian blue roe and gray velvet ribbon.
Snow laoe (dentelle nlege), by th way. la
a nsw and very modish web. Upon a dia
phanous background are heavy snow balls,
which doubtless giv It th title, for very
frequently th lac la dyed to match th
owa textures of th season, Uveal scarlet.
a French correspondent writes, is seen In
It, as well as royal blue and trtanon pink
a faded rose, adorably beautiful In satiny
textures. In a modest quantity tt may ap
pear upon the bonnet of the oldest dame.
With the French any woman between 30
and 40 Is a "femme de trente ans." So, If
she Is well preserved, she may attire her
gelf -"en - jeune fetnroo" (.the French
"young" woman Is never more than 14), but
If she Is not she does the bourgeois middle
aged thing, which is to appear always in
black. The American woman scorns this
somewhat melancholy apparel, and rightly,
for, except In the case of stout and florid
types, all black Is aging. Nevertheless, the
woman In the "Ms" knows the value of the
inky gown. Chiffon and lace neck ruffles
OWNS FOIl BUMMER RESORT WBAR.
may make It wonderfully coquettish and In
airy evening textures it Is often most at
tractive. Soot beautiful black gowns, observed on
women who coolly acknowledge) th flight
of time show girdles and vests In flowered
ilk. la several instanoes these were in
the palest hues, pink and green, asure and
rose, and 'two shades off blue. The crush
belts were very high; in one case almost
half the bodice.
With this beautiful gown, which was of
black crepe de chin and for visiting use,
went a pretty Parisian bat. It was a brim
shape of black chip edged with whit, and
topped at th low, wide crown with a
trianon wreath of pink roses. Black chiffon,
ruffled all round, composed the' wide strings,
which were worn tied under the chin,
Lao gowns in combinations of black and
white are considered very suitable for
middle-aged women, and perhaps, all things
considered, they form the roost elegant
evening wear for them. But for obvious
reasons, unless tho lac costume Is for
very elaborate service, It Is rarely cot out
at th neck. Th high stock, however, Is
transparent, and uitDned bishop sleeves
frequently glv th look of a decetletage.
Anywhere np t (0, tt Is reckoned admissi
ble to wear sslored ribbons with these
gtowna, though gdrdlss must b Without
end, as th sash Is distinctly the privilege
of the young.
In house wear, soft lain and silks and
dimities, with laoe and ribbon deckings,
are much seen in wrappers and tea gowns,
which are cut loose and show cape effects
of every sort. French barege Is likewise
used for these garments, whose province
Is to fall with a certain elegance while
affording as much ease as possible, for even
In the bedchamber fashion considers beauty
above all things.
Numberless are the details which ths
trained mind may select, from the general
fund, for elderly use. Among these are the
shaded ribbons, which in sedate colors havo
In themselves a delicately middle-aged air,
and which beautify colorless textures. For
Instance, a very dressy gown of gray volls
has a shoulder cap trimmed with a ribbon
shading from gray to white. Other grays,
specially those of gun metal cast, show
shadings of violet or blue, while the browns
melt softly Into corn yellows, and with
materials of the darker shade all go well.
But they must be used sparingly, and then
knotted and twisted in a way to make th
hading appear like different rlbbona Oth
erwise th correct effect Is entirely lost.
A still more youthful notion for tbe el .
' gently-inclined are the colored kid shoes
which fashion Is once more Introducing.
These are In all th staple shades brown,
red, blue, violet, gray and yellow end,
though designed especially for carriage use,
they will be worn out of town on any smart
occasion. With violin gowns, with little
mantles of the same, violin headgear and
gloves stitched with the color, the purpl
kid shoes are effective. Th grays, blues
and browns also show up Veil with match
ing costumes, but If the wearer Is far past
the flower of comparative youth, th
graver colors are In better taste. '
In sunshades the tiny carriage parasols
used this long while seem almost a guar
antee of lineage, so aristocratic do they
appear. Younger women are carrying them
again as in olden times, and some of the
lac covers which embellish the modern
article are exactly patterned after those
of long ago. A "toilette casino" in shaded
blue nets, trimmed with black. Includes a
tiny parasol with a black cover. The han
dles are all Jointed, so that the parasol may
bend. Ilk th sunflower, te the sun.
" MART DEAN.
A skin op fimuryn a joy pop ever.
YR. T. FELIX OOTTRAt7DS ORIENT A I.
CBKAli.UBIUUICaX BXAUTlriEH
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ffwaiww&HiiN HID '
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ItlspropefiyBisde.
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lady of U taut-
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feoenmend
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tbm least harmful of aA tte A In MfMttons
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SawsaawReystse Cw Ciaefaaetl,
. SCXAEFER'S CUT PSICE CRUS STORE
Otnane, Mtbr., and stasia Omana. Nakt,
0100. to 15300. MOriTKlYT
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