Cm We !! Itf
RS THOMPSON discourses In the
North American Review: "Since
marriage to. a it&te to which all
M
barring accident, attain, it is to ef
fects as determined by marriage that one
must look in defining: the principles which
should govern the action of women. Facts
concerning: the wage-earning: of wives,
therefore, do not describe conditions of one
class of women only; they represent the
final equation of the matter bearing upon
the sex. Therefore:
"The practice of so-called economic In
dependence has achieved for women finan
cial results Indicated in the fact that her
average earnings are less than $1 a day.
"The effect of the practice upon economic
interests is to lessen efficiency and to In
crease the cost of production.
"The effect upon the woman herself Is
to impair her physical fitness for the ma
ternal function, and to subject her to a
false system of education, which mentally
and morally unfits her for her economic
office In the family.
"The effect upon society is to promote
paupcrdom, both by increasing the expense
of living and by robbing men of the re
sponsibility which gives them force and
success In their natural office of dispenser
of wealth to the family.
"In a word, the truth about woman in
Industry -is, she is a frightful failure."
Gems for Summer (IJrls.
AST summer it was beads. The
summer girl had a bead chain for
every frock, and did not mind in
the least If she was compared to
an Indian squaw.
This year it Is a link chain, set in tiny
gems. The girl who can dig up an heir
loom in old silver, the links blackened by
age and the gems quaintly carved, Is to be
accounted in great luck. Wealthy women
are scouring curio shops and paying ab
surd prices for them.
The girl who has neither heirlooms nor
treat wealth contents herself with one of
the clever imitations which can be picked
up for a song at any store.
The links are small and wirelike, flat
rather than round, and set at Intervals of
three, four or live, with fiat, oblong Jeweled
elides.
A dainty birthday gift for a young girl
Is long, slender summer chain of gold
Bet in her birth stone. If the girl docs not
euro for her birthstone, the alternative Is
the Indian emerald, a shade lighter than
the real emerald, a shade now enjoying a
vogue. The Indian emerald and the real
gem are sometimes combined to give a pe
culiar shaded effect.
As a pendant for these chains, the old
fashioned Latin cross is regarded as ex
actly the right thing.
An Importer recently showed a model,
four inches long, set in Jewels, which grad
uated In size from the ends of the arms
toward the center, the circle around the
heart of the cross being as fine as pin
points and sparkling in myriad hues. The
price was $3,000. In a few weeks a clever
Imitation of this cross was on the market
at 75 cents.
Sometimes the crosses are set In colored
gems surrounded by pearls or diamonds.
.Women who do not have to count pennies
have chains set in gems to match their va
rious crowns.
Blrthstones seem to be enjoying mora
than ordinary vogue, and the newest thing
In a brooch shows a small gold quill, hlgh-
ly chased and set with a single Wrthstone
In its center. Rings are fiat and stolid
looking, with heavy Bettings, Including an
arrangement of gems whose first letters
spell out such words as "Regards" or
"Dearest."
Rhinestones will be much employed in
summer Jewelry, and a new Imitation is
being imported heavily. This is used for
large pieces, such as hatpins. For wear
with the inevitable white lace hat, there Is
nothing more striking than an imitation
cut as large as a quarter with thirty-two
faces, which catch the light admirably.
Jeweled side combs in new designs are
shown. Last year the comb turned Its
decorated face outward, toward the ear.
This season, with the hair parted in the
middle, the two combs turn their decorated
edges toward each other, running straight
up and down the back, and leaving the
nent, white part fully exposed.
Combs of amber or tortoise have scal
loped edges, each scallop thickly encrusted
with marvelously clever imitation gems.
Alamlnnm Iluliy f"nrrlnren.
IN ENGLAND there are made baby
carriages with aluminum bodies.
They are described as the latest
thing In baby carriages.
This aluminum ba'.iy r a mage is
modeled precisely on the lines of what is
known here as the English baby carriage.
It Ih only half the weight of the ordinary
wooden carriages, and It Is said of It that
it "will prove a great boon in hilly dis
tricts." It should be borne In mind, however, that
"half the weight" refers to half the weight
of a wooden carriage of the type commonly
used in England, and that while there are
now being used here an Increasing number
Chat About Women
At a cost of nearly $.10,000 Miss Helen
Miller Gould has just had built a new
club house for boys and young men, lo
be named the Lyndhuri-t club, near Irving
ton, on the Hudson.
Miss Annie Wheeler Is almost as well
known as her illustrious father, General
Joseph Wheeler. During the Spanish-American
war she earned the sobriquet of
"Angel of Mercy" in the fever stricken
army hospitals, and stories of her heroism
and tenderness have been told since the
white flag of peace meant an end of her
heroic service to her country. Miss Wheeler
has spent the entire winter in New York,
where she hus boon a prominent figure hi
society. The warmest friendship exlsls be
tween Miss Wheeler and Miss Helen Gould.
The University of Halle mentions the in
teresting fact that this Institution was the
llrst In Germany to give the medical degree
to a woman. It was in 175-i that the uni
versity created a daughter of Dr. Leporin
of Halle, a "doctor medlclnae." Her sclen
tilio studies had been carried on under the
direction of her father, but in the univer-'
sity halls she had defended a set of theses
that secured her these academic honors.
Shis is no doubt the pioneer of the modern
university movement among the women of
Germany.
A silver-haired American woman Is still
living who posed for many a day as the
queen of England. And she still recalls
with a shudder the burden of forty pounds
of royal clothes which she wore for many
weary hours. Shortly after the coronation
of Queen Victoria the Society of St. Gtorgo
and St. Anthony of Philadelphia commis
sioned Thomas Sully to paint a portrait of
the queen in her coronation robes. The
artist went to England, accompanied by his
daughter Hlanche, a young woman of eigh
teen summers. The queen received him
graciously and sat for him till the head
was finished. She then relinquished the
task to the artist's daughter, who stt
dressed in the queen's robes for many a
long day. Mr. Sully revived $40.0-10 for the
portrait and Miss Hlanche was mude happy
by an autograph letter from the queen and
the present of a diamond riug.
of English baby carriages with wooden
bodies, tho great majority of the baby car
riages used in this country are made with
lighter bodies of wickerwork.
A New York dealer in baby carriages
said that he had not heard of the importa
tion of any of these aluminum baby car
riages Into this country, and that he did
not see why they should be needed here;
that there were made here baby carriages,
with steel ball bearing axles, that rolled so
easily and smoothly that a touch would
send them half the length of the store
floor; and he could not Imagine a carriage
rolling and handling more easily than that,
or that one to run more easily could be
required in this country.
Demand for Huxlnexn Women.
HERE are P0 women In New York,
some young and some, er not,
who have salaries bigger thnn
United Slates senators. There
are 300 more who make as much
as a congressman. Mr. Rockefel
ler's secretary, of whom mention
has heretofore been made In this corre
spondence, has an Income of $14,000 a year,
and the young, or at least not old, woman
who occupies a similar relation to II. II.
Rogers, also a Standard oil magnate, drags
off $10,000 a year. These girls all begin as
Stenographers. Then they arc found to
possess the necessary good sense and diplo
macy to answer routine letters without
calling the boss of the Job to their aid.
Later they uro found to be competent to
handle delicate matters of business, and
then the boss begins to rely on them. He
may be at his country place, fifty miles
out of town, and he will telephone the
office. The secretary tells him what's
doing, and tin n he will probably say:
Frills of Fashion
Aluminum braid in various widths is used
for trimming.
Tho very llghtept pink rind blue batiste is
in favor for underclothing.
Illack Chiffon taffeta walking gowns, with
instep skirt, are in favor for street and
carriage wear.
To match her white costume it is pre
dicted that the summer girl will wear
white combs.
A green parasol has n green stick, the
end of the handle finished with a dink's
head in the same green and with a black
bill.
The small, square-cornered cushions of
silk used for filling in the top of a straight
front corset often are ornamented In the
center with ribbon (lowers.
A parasol handle of smooth, polished red
wood makes a short bend at the top, lias
the end sharp pointed, and becomes the
small head of a bird with a sharp bill.
The plain white linen collar and cuffs
have u line of half-inch squares of the linen
set in cornerwise Just inside the edge, funn
ing an openwork band. It Is a neat and
effective tinisli.
One of the handsomest and daintiest of
summer belts Is of warp print silk in pom
padour designs. The front Is shirred, while
tlio back ornamentation consists of buttons
covered with tie silk.
A pretty waist for a girl is of the printed
net, with a tucked stock and cuffs, the ma
terial tucked yoke deep on the body of the
waist. This, too, is made over silk. One
pretty flower design shows clusters of del
icate violet flowers.
Low shoes in white are of morocco, which
gives thorn an unusual appearance. An
other light shoe is of a lizard skin in Die
pah: gray that Is usually seen in purses,
and in some of these the front part, where
tho eyelets ore set, is of white.
A pale pink kimono is embroidered with
A design of Wistaria in while with pale
gray-green leaves. Another of white, which
is pretty, has also the wistaria design, but
the blossoms in pale pink, the foliage green
and the lining of the garment In pink.
T
"Welt, use your own judgment In this mat
ter and that." He usually finds that "her
own Judgment" Is good. Bo it happens that
many of the big things reported In the
llnanclal columns of the dally newspapers
ore really negotiated by the young woman,
secretory. Not only in tills Held are women
showing their capacity, but in others
equally as Important. The big hotels la
New York find that women cashiers an
auditors sre the most Tollable. They de
not play the races, and they are not
tempted to enter into conspiracies to rob
their employers. A copy of the Hotel Ga
lette contains a remarkable news item not
printed in any of the dally papers. A
man who owns two of the biggest hotels
in San Francisco Is in New York looking
for women auditors and cashiers, lie says
the last three men he employed In these
responsible positions have absconded, and
he Is determined hereafter to employ none
but women. Mr. Hawk of the Manhattan
lias an abiding faith In the honesty of
women, and so has Mr. llllliard of tha
Waldorf. The new Astor hotel is to have
women auditors and cashiers.
Know Wlm Xlie tti'r,
to UK us much of a companion t
I Ids wife or sweetheart ns pnssl-
I i,il(" i. Chicago Tribune,
... ul,..,,l.l ,l,.e,,li untile Mtllilir
eS&SisJ to the technique of dress making.
lie ihoiild be able to talk intelligently on
the subject which lb s closest to a woman's
heart. This Is the subject of dress. In or
der to post himself on the styles and tha
terms of expression used In the discussion
of gowns and toilets he should read the
f:.shlou columns in the papers.
"Win n the new dress Is worn for the
first time his first question should bo,
'Have you bought enough material for
the parasol?' Hy this question he will
show that he knows the Importance of
the parasol this Heason In heightening the
effect of the tout ensemble. He can
deftly remark that one of the prettiest
parasol handles he has seen was one hav
ing rich 'Incrustations of contrasting na
ture.' "When it comes to dlscusBlng the forth
coming wedding gowns it would be
proper to say that ho personally favors
the lyouis XV. and pompadour modes,
because they demand rich muterials and
can only be taken up by a limited num
ber. The following terms would then ba
in order: i'ink panne, apron of white
mouHHcline, a corsage that makes a curve
over the bust, bias frills, sheer stuff, and
flower sashes on bodices. If lie Is not
careful he may mention a number nf
things found only on menu cards or used
In farming. He must understand that
shirring has no reference to eggs, niching
to charlotte russe, scallops to oysters,
periwinkles to seashells, galloons to quartet
or yokes to oxen.
"A bodice Is not a bo.Tkln, even if It
does taper to a point, because a bodice,
to bo right, should come down In n long,
prim point, old tlmey, pretty and irra
tional. A hat is not a parlor window,
even if a lace curtain does fall at the
back. These elementary distinctions must
be learned.
"Hut to appnnr truly learned. Inquiry
should bo made as to the djibbleh. A
man may know other things, but if he
lets the djibbleh escape him he Is lost.
It should be long, loose mid straight, cut
out at the throat and 'endowed' with flow
ing sleeves."