z
- - i ' vrktur A ..ti lit T - . 1 1 k
I I standing the; fact tli.it KUinmrr
1 tltl'li.a l'it.t-Itr ni In f i t ( , i n -
......... J...... , I -r hi-
mi. - long before this period. It la
really the month of May whlrh
decides them In i'nrls. Then the ennven
tluiml coaching parade which America
knows Ik ii placed y a splendid pageant
of fashion whlrh, with horns nnd what not,
likewise wind Itself through wooded ways,
The Avenue des Acacias, In the Hols do
HmiloMif, Ih th- route chosen for thin pro
CesMlor, whit ti In gazed upon und applauded
by tlio' .' iiri.l . Kvery f.tir one tries to outdo
lier ncihhii.'.r i.i point of costume, and
when ih.iii! Kpei lally charming Ketup Is
rlici-ieij somebody says: "llehold! u chef
doeuvre. This will live."
The extreme fragilll ever expressed by
theHc eaily toil.. Hex often confound tho
Spectator from over the Keas, more used to
Chli! winds than balmy airs at this mo
ment, l ot the l'nriHl.in spring comes early,
ml hy the second week of May tho trees
are generally likewise In their hpiIiik clothes
and the summer Mowers Iwive In .in. So
the thin siil.y gniifcci, and pale voiles, und
bnli-like designs for flower fete fashions
are olleti el-.liointe to thin degree-do not
rem out of pl.ici ; and If, to f.ak truly,
the helle l'niislcnnc is a hit cold some
times her pride keeps her from showing it.
Year after year the toilettes which are
destined for the Parisian Kete des Fleurs
are it produced for the American market.
This season Is n exception to the rule,
and slice tne dressiest of the new styles
are. extravagantly pieturesuue, some of
these kuwiih are ailorahly lovely.
Taken in masse it Is noticed that the
most effective skirts with these elegant
costumes train to some degree and are
made to look only moderately full. The
prevailing bodice Js In blouse form, and
the laces used are of the thinnest variety,
chantlily and llerre abounding over other
oris. Among the novelty laces, employed
upon the silks especially, are some black
webs with llgurcs In colors und various
spotted and odd meshed nets which are
made up Into narrow ruches. More elab
orate laces form blouses and bolero effecti,
In combination with plain voiles and self
colored silks.
As to these materials, silks and voiles
are more numerous than other textures, a
number showing colors exquisitely delicate
In some cases und rarely rich In others.
Matching parasols also accompany many
of the toilettes. Hut where some of these
seem unusually large, others are very tiny,
being In size and design exact replicas of
the carriage parasols used these many
years. The larger sorts and those of me
dium size uro more numerous, nnd are
Often hcwtldcrliigly furhelowed at the bot
tom. The hats, for there are Fete des
Fh urs hals, too, are both large and small;
and along with pale violets, cloud-like
mnuves, misty grays and opaline nnd sea
tints, scarlet Is a frequent note.
One gown of exceptional beauty Is of
chiffon voile in this Hashing tint. A blouse
waist and trimmed skirt composes the
model with Htilphur-ciilored lace for the
yoke nnd undersleeves. The trlmrno hat
supplied for this toilette in of scarlet Pan
ama, with a saffron brim and pure white
rosea, nnd the parnsol la of white and saf
fron lace over red chiffon.
A detail remurked as a favorite one with
fashion wo a shoulder trimming shown
by the bodice of this gown. Taking the
form of a sort of cape in folds, edged by
a hand of lace, this shoulder covering was
repeated on other gowns !n numberless
other ways. One displayed a sort of I'url
tan collar of inagnlllcent lace placed over
chiffon and garnished with bluck and white
Spotted net.
Other yokes possessed a straight or
Shaped flounce fall, or a lace or chiffon
surplice scarf, which crossed at the waist,
but whatever was the device the shoulder
earn was always hidden, or else elabo
rated with all sorts of lengthening trim
mings. Another point extremely charming Is the
absence of seaming In many of the short
Jacket effects, which nre seen In legions thU
season. A thin silky rrope bolero, in burnt
Ivory, had the sleeves nnd body portion cut
In one, or rather In two pieces, for tho
halves met at the buck. A delightful loose
ness was expressed by this trick, and sev
eral soft shades of brownish not compom-d
the rest of the toilet.
Violet and blue, strange as It may sound,
Wus the color scheme of a voile gown whose
skirt displayed huge flower und garluinU
Of chiffon und lace.
Not u single skirt of the whole of this
Imported tut teh was untrimined. Each und
very one displayed u garnishing of wmio
sort, some mounting us high us tho waist
narrow ruches of silk or net above frills of
luce; wido folds put ou to simulate tucks
and ulao headed la some way; aud flounces
and Insets and applications Innumerable.
Then each and every one fell in a way to
ravish the eye and distract the soul that
wou.j copy It, and, though all seemed to
bo very wide when the skirt was tried on,
the drop linings were observed to be care
fully fitted at the hips.
The seeming looseness of the bodices was
also deceiving, for never were wulst foun
dations more scrupulously adjusted than
SII2!,,J'.I''.U AND TRIMMINGS
oil i.hJS.
Frills of Fashion
Dyed shantung, unvy ana brown In par
ticular, will be a favorite ullk of the sum
mer. Emeralds are the costliest of gems at the
present time. Next in value comes rubles
and pearls.
Rows of stitching and pretty buttons
constitute the decoration of the newest
tailor made costumes.
An all 'violet toque has at the back, set
In among the (lowers, on cither side a
rosette ot pule blue chiffon.
In tussnh and biscuit tints veils with em
broidered borders are expected to be in
demand for country wear next summer.
Borne of the new feathers sliu.ie from
dark brown to orange and finish In a
deep cream tone. In red the shading is
from cherry to a pale coral.
Here Is something a little unusual In
a lingerie bat. These hats of lace ai d
muslin are, as a rule, the largest of their
kind, with fluffy crowns and broad rtms.
This hat Is a toque, which Is one claim to
distinction, but It has another in being
trimmed with a beautiful simile of ribbon,
a pale yellow, which encircles the center
of the rim In a manner in which trim
mings have been put on hats recently.
The ribbon Is cuught here and there all
around the hat with cross straps formed
of tiny yellow roses to match.
"The rules of good taste in wall pap?r
never change, though they sometimes seem
to do so," says Harper's Mazar. "The wall
should be treated from the buseboard up.
If there m u dado, it should represent the
durkesr tone of nil those employ., I fur
the wall; tho division above it should be
several shades lighter, tho border, if any,
still lighter, and the celling lightest of all,
und for this reason, which ulways exists,
the celling receives lens light than any
other iHirtion of the room, and the border
li s than the wall below it. The effort,
therefore, must be to counteract the dark
ness a hove by supplying the missing light.
A darkly papered ceiling should always be
avoided in uny but u Turkish or Indian
room, t'ool yellows, deep creams, golden
tar.s, are the best ceiling tones, us a rule,
though there are occasions where a soft
blue or u rose flushed ceiling is to be
advised,
now, the long seam, running to the shoul
der, at present employed instead of the old
bust dart, making a great Improvement In
the fit. The best skirt linings nre shaped
at the back and front with folded pleats in
stead of the former stitched darts. The
apron gore Is cut out very much at the
waist, so that frequently the side breadths
can be drawn over the hips without full
ness, thus lessening bulk at a point where
WinCII ARB FEATURES OK SUMMER
Chat About Women
Miss Sadie Go ropers, a daughter of Pres
ident tiompers of tho American Federation
of Labor, Is about to go on the concert
stage. Bhe Is 20 years old.
Mrs. Mary E. Hart, woman manager of
the Alaskan World's fair exhibit, has ar
rived in Bt. Louis, where she will remain
until the close of the exposition.
The dowager duchess of Abercorn Is
the oldest living lirltlsh peeress. When
she was born to the sixth duke of Bedford
by his second wife. Napoleon's retreat from
Moscow was still before him and George
III was king-, with eight years more to
reign. Thus this venerable woman has
lived In Ave reigns and through the whole
of three, aUhough one of those was the
longest on record. She was married nearly
seventy-two years ago and has lived to
see a grandchild's grandchild.
Mrs. Gertrude Atherton, the American
author, la enjoying unusual social attention
In London. On April 21 the exclusive
Writers' club, composed wholly of women,
will give a luncheon to her the first thing
of the Bort they have ever done. This club
has one large public dinner annually, but
hitherto has conservatively refrained from
entertaining guests in a similar way at
any other time, l'eople who are acquainted
with Hrltish conservatism will appreciate
the honor thus puld to an American woman
author.
One of Mrs. Clarence Mackay's peculiar
ities Is to wear u favorite Jewel morning,
ii. ion und night, to the exclusion of every
other gem she. owns. A few years ago
her prime favorite was an elaborate dia
mond brooch with an emerald center. The
large emerald could be detached nnd worn
alone, und this had been the wedding pres
ent of Mr. Mackay. The attractive young
woman seldom wus without the brooch or
Its central stone. Hut a tremendous pear
shaped opal is the latest. This is a brand
new gem und Is mounted in a setting of
small diamond. This hangs In the "la
lique" fashion from a di.imond-fctudded
chain. Everyone asks Mrs. Mackay If she
la not superstitious- Kor some reason the
fiery opul never has been popular with
women of fashion. It may be the evil
reputattou of the opal or the fact that only
tho large ones are expensive.
It Is Important to appear sylphlike.
But no matter how sedulously the foun
dations are looked after the new costumes
are expressive of too much fullness to suit
entirely any but slender figures; so those
Inclined to embonpoint had better see to
It that the dressmaker is not led Into flight
of modish fancy In the way of fussy sleeves
and skirts aux volants.
For such figures the Jupes with hori
zontal garnitures or side pleats are ad
Vised. For the bodice bolero effects ara
always good for thick figures, the gathered
blouses In airy textiles, over which these
aro placed being also slimming in ten
dency. Medium sized sleeves likewise aid
In the good work.
But bolero effects will bo worn by every
body, and more than one Imported gown
with such a detail will show a chiffon tin
derwaist. Indeed, it Is stated, a number
of the fine mid-summer carriage and rac
ing frocks will o entirely of chiffon, with
marvellous finger manipulation of the same
texture for trimming.
A wonderful flower fete gown In shaded
violets and white is trimmed with fuchla
fringes made in this way. Tho double
skirt, whose tunic U slightly pointed at
tho front and edged deeply with fringes,
escapes the ground all around. A pelerine
capa bordered In the same way hides all of
tho bodice but the plain puffed sleeves,
which como barely to the elbow.
Delightfully coquettish accessories with
these toilettes were several perfectly
straight scarfs of chiffon or net. with
flounce or lace borders. These, which an
entirely for ornament, will be worn In
many ways, some very low on the arms,
others close shout the throat, but all with
gowns of matching elegance.
But. coming to airy details things which
fall gracefully and float behind you when
you walk the furore for lace veils Is on
tho increase. Out of a dozen Flower Feta
hats seen five were veil draped In Chantilly
webs in beautiful tints.
With a "straw" raflla turban, mossed
with purple nnd white cherries, a purple
veil was arranged to let down over thai
face when wanted. Apple green, scarlet
and brown lace veils are also to be worn,
though very likely these will be employed
chiefly as hat trimmings here. At the
races or out of town they will not seem so
conspicuous, for It is really for such use
the colored veil has been designed.
Pnradise plumes are also a feature of
the new millinery, nnd cherries hang
temptingly from many a delightful head
piece. The suggestion for this motive Is obvious.
Franco grows wonderful cherries nnd Tavis
sells them by the ton black cherries, red
cherries, pink cherries. So these delect
able dainties In many other hues and f Izes
as big as plums we are once more to wear
upon our heads. MART DEAN.
A SKIN OP BBAUTV IS A JOY POBEVRg.
VR. T. FF.LIX OOIIRAIID'g OKIENTAC
CKE1U, OH MAGICAL. BKAUTlFlKtt
Be mora Tan, Plmplsa, Frock Irs,
Miiira, kuil ana sain
, and Tory uleulnh
beauty, aiil
a detection. It
M yean, aa4 hi
tiarraleaa tre
Uat It to be ear
It It properly mad a.
Aeoept no counter
feit of similar
name. Dr. L. A.
Barra aaiii to a
uulT of the haiiU
toe (a patient) i
'As you ladles
will um tliem. I
raeammaad
'Eaunaift Crati'
as the teact harmful of all tae ckla sroparattona.1
For Mil tiy alt DrucglMa an4 raocy Qoeds lMaiers
In lha U. Cna. aod Karope.
KM. T. HOPUJIS, Prtsr. 17 but Jos St, L
mm
Insures Pare.Soft, White Slda
and a Bttntifni CompiexlasV
ki core Ecaema and Tetter. Ab
auiaieiy & n a reraiareninj
' remove ruaouieaae, M rec
f , klea, Pimulee, Beduee. bun
tnoli and Taa. Peed with
Herma-Koyala Soap a ?
, feet nkiu it Uiiured-
oviu vy hi uyyi. , mw
rnsy be ordered direct.
Dersaa-atoyale, (1 Bier kottle, express paM.
Iarsaa-Ryvl atoap, US aus, by auail.
Bath a mum package, ai.aS. narat saM
Tfc) Darana-BoFal C- Claetaaati, U
SCHAEFIR'S CIT f RICE RIG STORE.
Duiaba, Mabr.. and SoaU Omaha, NeaaV.
T
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