Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, April 03, 1904, Image 38

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Dainty This for Boadolr Wwr,
M IIP dmiiln T.innnjMiA llnwma 111 In
I " I greater favor than ever for nog-
I llmA wiip hfwieuM of it K CH.SO
and grace and the quickness with
which It can be arnuiKed r dis
carded. Many beautiful and quite Oriental
designs In cotton crepes are shown in tiie
Shops for this purpose. These can be made
up quickly and Inexpensively, or, if desired,
fashioned out of dainty silks. The tioudolr
maid wbo affects klmonaa usually wears
ttie hoclless toilet slipper made out of a
piece of the fabric in tier klmona.
The short klmona is also much favored
and is usually made of cotton or silk crepes
or of handkerchiefs. Red and blue ban
dannas and whit handkerchiefs with col
ored borders are favorites for this negli
gee. More fullness Is required for the kl
mona than the combing Jacket.
The strictly Grecian costume of wlftte,
made to fall very full In gathers, with
cord and tassel arrangement at the nock
or waist, is another style which finds nigh
favor. Sometimes the material Is draped
to fall from the left whoulder or from both
In soft folds, held by a knot or buckle.
China and India silks, crepe dc chines and
cotton crepes are desirable for such robes.
For the thoroughly modern boudoir maid
a bewildering display of materials is of
feredwhite and delicately tinted chiffons,
niousselines, sauces and point d'esprits. A
liberty eilk robe is shown in opal shades,
with an opalescent sequin girdle to secure
it at the waist line.
Itullled and plaitea ruchings have invaded
the realm of the boudoir gown. A red
crepe de chine has angel sleeves of ac
cordion pleated chiffon, edged with red
ruching. The yoke is made entirely of the
ruchfng, which has a tiny silk cord edge.
Dressing gowns of the colonial style aro
picturesque- and becoming, in addition to
their merit of ease and comfort.
Many pretty and practical thiugs are
shown in dressing sacques in china silks
and laces. A typical one wua made of blue
satin ribbon and Insertion, with little
plaited, fan-shaped pieces of silk inserted
at intervals below the waist. This feature
also made a full, graceful collar and sleeves.
Tongue sacques with heavy lace collars
of Irish crochet make serviceable gar
ments. The honeycomb effect is a pleasing
feature of the newest pongee boudoir
sacques. It gives graceful folds and is
varied by little touches of beading and
tinsel.
(Irnnth of the Woman's Club.
K spoke the other day of a pro
ject for the building of a Hub
house in Madison avenue, for
women of fashionalile society
w
especially, as on indication of the
larger "sphere" into which even the most
conservative women have entered during
the last generation. Another project an
nounced yesterday is much more directly
indicative of that development.
It is a scheme for obtaining a large per
manent home and headquarters for tho
Federated Women's Clubs of New York.
These are not women of fashion distinct
ively, but rutner women who are Inter
ested in the general feminine "emanci
pation" of this period, and are wholly
apart from the purely social alms of the
women of fashion who, for their own con
venience and delectation, have undertaken
to build the Madison avenue rlul hoiie,
and who resent, not unnaturally, the im
plication that they have nny special or
general sympathy with what l known
B-i the woman's rights movement.
A General Federation of Women's clubs,
incorporated in 1WB, Is composed of hi -dreds
of these associations, and has a rep-
resontatlve in the Club Woman, the very
handsome magazine of which we have
before- sixiken. The first of these clubs,
the Sorosis, was organized in New York
so long ngo as 1M6K. Auxiliary to the Gen
eral Federation are many state federations
of women's clubs, and the project for buy
ing an imposing club bouse as their ren
ter, to which we have referred, proceeds
from the New York Federation. The build
ing It is roposed to purcliHse D of so
large a price, t'AlO.noO, that this club move
ment must now be on a large scale and
very successful. If Its project Ls carried
out these affiliated associations will hive
a club house which in tdze and appoint
ments will compare favorably with the
most Important of the men's clubs In
town.
It l a remarkable undertaking and demonstrates-
anew the great progress mule
by women since the period, about fifty
years ago, when, amid derision and gloomy
predictions, h few women started the
movement to escape from the retraint4
of the traditional domestic seclu-slon to
which feminine activities were then con
fined. The ridicule amid which their e itly
struggles were made has been succeed d by
serious consideration of the right, the 1 ro
prlety and the advantage of women or
ganizing themselves Into associations ilm
llar in character to those established for
Frills of Fashion
Parrot green H a leader in fashionable
tints. ,, .
Bilk bonillonnees are superseding ruch
ings In iKtpularity.
Kibbon bows with their ends frayed out
represent a new notion.
White will le worn more than ever dar
ing the corning summer.
For summer wear linen will take prece
dence of all other wash material.
Irish lace will continue to be u-w-d both
for the turnover and the t-toek cellar.
IJneri luces in antique patterns, rnaer.inio
and heavy Venise will be used lor trim
ming linen costumes.
The tendency in light colors ii toward
champagne, gray, heliotrope, almon-i g ecu
and pat golden yellow.
A pretty child s gown Is of white, do'.ted
muslin embroidered here and there with
a rather heavy tau embroidery. Tan on
while Is good style this ycr.
Au attractive fancy bodice it made of
one of the printed liets in dark torios.
Mack with a (lower design id color. The
deep cuffs and yoke to me gown are of
while.
Chiffon hi light and dark hues Is much
In evidence for evening dresses, gauging
forming the principal trimming wuli a
lace yoke or bertha.
For the luxurious cloth gown, embroid
ery is the favored decoration, braids ia
varlojs kinds and width leiKling a deco
rative touch to the simpler cuiiuiu.
White lace is given coitFideruble prefer
ence for day iinu evening iur, the lice
yoke Inlrudui-ed in hlgii nocked or se.ui
docollette gowns eliowing the pattern out
lined with a thread of gold.
Apropos of the fancy for the three tier
skirt, an authority a!vle that it le mad
with trained back and that each llounco
be rdgei wilii braid, galloon, embroidery
or other form of garniture.
A knitting bag, which ii a Ix-iuiy, Is
of a heavy cotton tapestry In delightfully
soft colors. It is u big loose bag, with a
long slit opening across the lop. in Mk
center of this on either side, for handles,
are two large metal lings, covered with a
soft golielii: blue and braid of the same
shade is carried down on either ride of
the oj. eniiig. it is one of the pre t tie -it and
most commodious of bags.
Among the broad belts of Oriental em
broidery ult a lew witli quaint buckles
set w ith t ton 'S la odd shades, line of t lie
prettier! of tin- bells, of gold embi oi lory
upon a light rhude of silk, has the bu -klu
formed of three stones, square eornered,
a little longer than the breadth, aril set
in simple brooch fellings. The pnuIlt-.U
stone, perhaps au inch square. In the (en
ter Is the pink and larger stones on either
side of it are green. In other belt buckle.-!
the colors ,110 revinct ;.nl the stones are
laiver.
centuries by men. It is a mirve'cue ching"
in public scntlmcnl, and how e'oupl tely
revolutionary It is only those can under
stand whose memory goes hack to the
time when first woman's rights found ex
pression in a few daring souls.-- Now York
Sun.
Maids Who Achieved IllsMnc Hon.
iF.1.1., me where you will find an
old inuld In the history of the
world who achieved distinction?
Jeanne. d'Arc Is the only until ir
rlcd woman to my knowledge
Whose deedn are historic. Miss Marie von
Vorst In the Chicago Tribune.
Hubert J. Hurdeltc answers
the. writer
as follows:
"Tile gifted utithir had better qui! writ
ing so much and read a little m r . Jeanne
d'Arc is not so lonesorti" in the wi rid of
spinster achievements us all that. What
Is tlm matter with Queen Kli.'.ab. th, Helen
Gould, Florence. NiKhtingale. HI iter Do a,
Grace Darling, Clara Harton. Kusau An
thony, Francis Willard, to say nothing of
Jephtliuh'a diuphler and the quooo of
Shelia? Is l'lejldent Carey Thomas a l.o
body? Is Jane Aildarns doing nothing?
"Talk about 'ruce suicide' Jcanuo d'Arc.'
solo mllon In life was to destroy fam
ilies of men as fasl as other p.-ople could
raise them. Hut other splutter, 'while of
Chat About Women
I'robahly the two most learned women In
the world, certainly Ibe foremost women
IDblieal m hoi. us, ore Mrs. AKIies bnnltl
U'Wls ami .ills. Maigaioi i)unio Gtimoii
of 'ainbl Idge, I'.'imlHiid, who have Jiini Ols
on voted what is known us the Kinailio pal
liuj.s si. lie i L.o.st known maim ci ij.t ot li ,'
lour gospels. Ibis is Hie nm.-l Important
discovery id Itlhlicul mariust ripts wliioli
bus boon made in modern times. Remark
able to say, Mrs. Gibson and Mr:i. Iewls
ale twin sifters. Clearly it is n case of
inherited talent.
Mrs. Clarence Maekay, who lias Just pult
lihliod a taii ly hooocsI ill novelette, wrote
the story in u log cabin situated a mile
Irmii her luxurious palace noioe, linitmr
Hill, at lloslyn, I.. 1. The most iiiiikii Unit
onjecl in the place is a l. pew rit ing iii.i
oliint , on vvliicn Mrs. Mai Kay wroie the
story. In fine weather sue walked to and
lrotii her secluded workshop and carried
her luncheon in it basket. Mu is a young
matron With some years lo her credit on the
NUiiny side of 'M. Mie Is not ovoi lond of
soiieiy nod its exuetious. William it.
Trovers, the famous wit, was her gr. init
ial lief, and hoi greut-giandtathi r was the
leleiuaicU Hevetdy Johnson.
The greatest rtotuati Catholic heiress ill
ItikLmuI is l-idy Margaret t rlchtoii Ktuai t,
the only sister of the marquis of Hute. Ttiu
1;. tin l ol the maiqiihi ot liate wius the or
iginal Ft tidy for Disraeli in "lothair."llho
nas so cry wealthy that lie w as able to
li'iive his oai.Khtoi all eteirinous fortune
without diminishing the large revenue of
the marquisale. I.uoy Margaret cares little
lor societj and is very loud of yachting.
Iter yacht, tin Kazu, is wi ll kiriwu in the
Itiviei'n, and she lias many American
Iricnds at Cannes and at Nice. Kaeh year
slie visits the holy land. Kit' rather In
vested a great deal of money in Jerusalem
and a part of l.idy Margaret s leu. icy con
sifts in ground reals In that historical holy
city.
Miss Ko'ii 1 lelirionii (i, last of the lielmon
ioos, directress for twenty years of the
noted New York restaurant homing the
family name, died oil the 2tth Inst. lion,
in-art failure. Miss I liiiomoo was last
In the line of the noted Hwis-i restaurateurs,
the founders of which John J. and I'eler--cslnhtiKhod,
in IM'7, the little tako and wino
shop nenv the l'.attct , Irom which has
grown the I Himoiiioo s ol t xlay. John Del
moiiieo was her father, ller inlluoiice over
the affairs ot the restaurant began as early
as 1HS1, when she and her brother, Charles,
inherited the busin-ss from their uncle,
Ijik iizo I ii liiioiiieo. The tragic ilealli of
her brother. Charles, in 1-S4, gave lai the
control, and site Is t ame the hi nd of the
house. Her sister had married u Swiss,
Carlo Crist, and the ib-atli of the purr lit s
left three children to be cared for bv
"Aunt Kosu." TiiHiik the surname of tlar
uncle, they became known us Charles Crist
Delnionieo. I.. Crist Deliiioiiieo and Miss
Josephine Crist I 'olii.onii-o. The latter in
liuit the property.
course they haven't lrn renowned for
raising large families of their own, liavi
N rn and are fann-d for taking cue f the
families of other people. 'Knee sulcdet
Did you ever know sn old timid whu
wasn't nurse, bin her, remislrcst and
s'tepniol her to nil the chlldivn of her six
marled sisters. If she had so ninny? 'More
arc the children of the rpinster thrill of
the mauled wife,' alth the prophet. If
sll the women married and raised famllbs,
who would lake care of the children? A
family without an 'old maid aunt' is a
ros garden without its perfume. Ami,
speaking of spinsters, what's the matter
with Miss Marl" von Vorwt?"
$
Women Who lOnarnve Money.
MDN'ii the most valued employe
of the bare in of eiigruvlng and
printing lhoc women who attend
to tiie details of the sngrnving of
money dies hold high tank. The
A
work of preparation on a sheet containing
four fl bills is as grout us that xix-nded In
making two Hi'.Out) bilLs.
The l.irrcst bond made at the bureau of
engraving Is t lie fiil'.tKKi 4 per cent consol.
It is a lieititiful proiluct of th engriviiK
art. The largest government note ia in-ii
Is the ltl.nuo go!d i-ertllloate. It Is a beauti
ful ctcatioii
Tliere l. no particular rvpert accorded
any espri'iul product of the burau. Moat
periions wie.ild not riury a 11(1,001 gold eer
tltlenlc around pi their pistol pocket very
mnny dayr. Indeed, a glnsa case would
hardly be ileenud a rutllcicntly pi cure re
poeitory. Hut In the bureau of en,rrnving
a II I III. a stool of 2-eent stamps or a
JKl.tKHi Mil Is rot through about tie- lame
hopper, and eaeh receives the same ex
treme degree of nttoiillin slid security.
TiieTi are rib. nit 3 OKI in rKons empo. el
in tiie bureau. They get down lo work
iibout K o'clock In the morning and work
until 4::tn or 11 o'clock In the afternoon. It
mlpht lie well to remenil or th it thev all
work. too. It is one of tile bit: lest plaves
as wedl es most Intere'stlng workshops in
Hie" government lerviee.
lf the 3.1 ilO employes there fully ! p-r
cent are women. Tiie eharaioer of much
of the wo-k Is iiectilUrly adaptd lo
Women. Kaeh printer has a woman ns (st
unt Kite is enually responsible with Ihn
man foi the security ef tlielr Joint work.
The'y ure a bright and Intelligent class of
Women, too. In whateve-r department of
the busy buieiiu one goes he wi'l find them
holding Jointly with men positions of hon r
and gloat respemstbillty.
For the' delectation eif the' thoiiS'indfl of
visitors that make the bureau a Mecca
during a sojourn at the capital a very at
tractive army ef bunk nobs, treasury
notes, bonds and other legl securities of
the government is framed anil bung up In
th" corridor of the bnildli.g.
Tin re one- can f'st the eyes on the
money of the geivernme-nl and MTlapv
learn of ce-rlhln bills of high denomination
In circulation which he h'id ne-ver rri'n.
There Is also a unit frame em the wall
showing the new f- I"' and lift i iirrene y of
the 1'hllippiho Isliiids. The nole'S are- vi'ry
attractive ai d are much smaller than e ur
notes. The bills of large elenominatiein are
in sums of lino, J;VV Lantl. :.(iii and 110, 9
It Is approximated that about 2 per e-e-nt
eif thi' money made at the bureau is In the
form e,f II. f. :,, tin and J-.ti bills. The re
imlnlng 1H tar eent Is le-ft to the pri'due
tlon of flue, ym. Il.ooi. ti.iKKi and f lo.OO'J bills.
It fs Mated that during the re-eent er
there were printed about rn.rtW.ltfio eif 11
bills, $ r,,ua.uji of J bills. $L'13.(uu.li0u of S5
bills, $4H.eni.(Si of $10 bills and Hm.rio.uiO
of l.'i bills.
Ofrsials place- the fierlod of usefulness of
a greenback at between thre-e and fair
yearn. This is estimateil on the e-ont inuou
circulation of the note.