V
ITow to Ureaa.
URINQ the last ten yean there has
D
been rapid growth of rood Judg
ment In relation to dress. It will
be noted that certain styles which
conform to the more graceful lines
of the figure maintain a sort of vogue; that
designers, Intent upon creating a complete
change looking to the more rapid displace
ment of fashion, are less succes-jful. If
temporarily dispossessed, that which Is use
ful and graceful soon returns. One reason
there is a cry that there will be no more
shirtwaists; the next, that the clinging
skirt, falling In graceful folds. Is to be dis
placed by flounces, or hoops, or what not.
Hut It will be observed that every effort
of this kind is followed by a reaction in
favor of that which conforms to what Is
best In art. The day of the nbsurd hoop
skirt is gone forever. The (lay of over
loading gowns wilh ornaments is rapidly
disappearing. The evening gown Itself tends
more nnd more to simplicity of outline.
And In the world of ready-made c!othlnr,
those who manufacture nre coming to note
this growth in the direction of what Is true
upon the part of even the least knowing of
women. Tear by year, tho firms who know
their business best are choosing rlmplcr
lines, less of elaboration, less of ornament,
and It has been noted that those who have
their stocks unsold at the end of the season
are almost Invariably manufacturer whrse
poor tnste does not permit them to under
stand this principle. Twentieth Century
Home.
Women Dentlntn to lie a Fail.
f OMEN dentists are not numerous,
but they have been Increasingly
I I popular for some years past; nnd
fEfyWjI now that Dr. Caroline Wolfs
it " bruck of Manhattan has been
making such a htt among fashionable and
titled personnges on the other side tho mill
pond they bid fair to develop into a Veri
fiable fad. Dr. Wolfbruck's hit on the
other side is personal and social rather
than professional, inasmuch as sho went
abroad for a holiday and proposes to
have it. .
Now there are three dental pchools in
the state of New York, two in Manhattan
and one in Buffalo, and two of them are to
educational. The old established New
York College of Dentistry still bars out
petticoats, so that the only place In Man
hattan today where a woman may become
expert In that particular form of torture
is the New York Dental school In Forty
second street. There are about twenty of
them there now studying und thei-e are
pretty evenly distributed over the four
years that go to make up the course.
Out west co-education has a much
stronger hold than it has In the more
conservative east; the biggest schools and
colleges admit women to alt their courses,
and any of them that have dental schools
at all graduate women as wt.'U us men, so
the woman dentist Is much more numer
ous there than she Is here. In Chicago,
for instance, there are about 350 of her.
Hut wherever she studies she must take
the full four-year course. There Is not a
school In the country where she can get
her degree in less. That is settled by a
national association of dental faculties and
tho association a few years ago decided
that three years was not enough, and the
four-year course was substituted for the
old three-year course. There has been con
siderable grumbling at the ins of time
Involved and it is possible that at a fu
ture meeting the association may return
to first principles.
The mujorlty of the women now prac
ticing In New York share offices lih
men and act as their assistants, but thero
aiw perhaps a score who are in business
on their own account, and have built up
very nice little practices of their own.
Mont of these started out as Dr. Wolfs
bruck did, with the Idea of confining their
practice to women and children, but most
of them have been obliged to forego such
unjust discrimination, and most of them
will own up, as Dr. Wolfsbruck does, that
after all the men are cosier to work on.
Needless t say, the men return the com
pliment and And a woman's hands pie is
anter and gentler than a man's. Brooklyn
Eagle.
Mrs. Roaaevelt's China.
' o i-j ciui nun tT-jrtrn ill
fJ I the possession of a greater eol-
" V a I !.(.... ,m .l.., ... , I-
, Y O T4-W-lC3T7V-t.-T 1 - . J . . t - n
ll-l.ll'MI i:i 1 11111,1 lllilll Vt iia III IIIU
disposal nf any of her predeces
sors as First Iidy of the Land.
More than this, the present mistress of the
White House has, what few if any former
four-yeaT queens of the republic have had,
a wealth of table appointments equal to
the treasure trove of costly ceramics to ba
found In the mansion of the American fam
ily of great wealth where lavish entertain
ing Is the rule
Mrs. Roosevelt now has for use on her
table upward of 6,000 perfect pieces of c hlna.
Only dishes in perfect condition are in
cluded in this enumeration, for, le It
known, no piece of china mamd by tin
slightest flaw is ever allowed to have place
Chat About Women
Miss Esther Allen Howland, who has
just died at Qtiincy. Mass., male the first
fancy valentine In this country.
Mis Kdna Karle, a society womnn of
Brooklyn, is planning to siiend a ear In
the Sierra Nevada for the purpose of
studying the manner of living of the hun
dreds of people who, because of Illness or
overwork, go to that section lo recuperate.
The young woman will put her Information
Into book form. She will start eirly in
the spring and will carry a port. i hie th ick.
Joule Smith, a young girl of Mount Oar
mel. 111., daughter of a civil war veteian,
who is sexton o fthe town cemetery, is
the first feminine grave elzger of thit
part of the country. Her father has be
come too feeble to attend to the dutici of
sexton and the girl has taken up the
work, digging the graves and looking after
ull the duties of her father.
It Is a tussup since the last policy was
taken out. which woman carries the heav
iest life Insurance, Mrs. Inline! Stanford
of California or Mrs. James Duns-nnlr of
Toronto. The olils are in favor of Mm.
Stanford, for she now is rat el at un even
$l.00O,OH). There is no question they are
the most heavily Insured wo'iien on the
American continent and far ahead of any
of their sisters in the eat. The next
nearest is Mrs. I'.ail N. Duke nf Durham,
N. C, who has policies amounting to t'SSi.
0i). Dr. Mary Walker, being In Washington,
decided to attend the hciring nf the Smont
case, but when she reached the committee
room the place was so crowded that the
doorkeeper would not let her pass. Sho
cletmed to l,e a mimluT of the press, but
could not show a newspaper worker's card.
The doctor finally found her wav Into tho
spectators' gallery, but had hardlv seud
herself when the committee went Into ex
ecutive session and she was hurr1e out
with other visitors. She forgot a fine c !
lar, which she left on u seat, and had to
wait until the committee adlmirned. several
ho'irs later, before she recovered It It is
raid that some of the doctor's rem irSs rii.r
Ing this weary wait were almost masculine
In their vigor.
I'erhnps no woman has escaped the ob
servation ( f the newspapers in resect of
her charities as much as Mrs. Klliott K.
Hlicpard. lmg liefore her husband died, a
decade or more ago, this daughter of the
house of V unite! hilt made sordid y miss her
wh'le she gave her mornings to her chlMn n
and her afternoons to the hospitals in whl 'h
she was then, as now, interested. No
wnmiii In the city gave so much time to
practical charity from l.i; to l!l." and if
Mrs. Shepard has withdrawn somewhat
from her old activities l-eoauso of the sor
rows that have come with the rears, her
pocketlxHik still has the clasp oh" and her
private secretary is kept busy doing sumo
kindly act.
on the presidential table. China so slightly
chipped or cracked that the average house
wife would pass over the defects Is rigor
ously banished from the White House
china clcsets as soon as the defect l
noticed, writes Waldon Fnwcilt in th:'
March Housekeeper.
It might naturally be supposed that thii
1.VJM pieces comprlsisg Mrs. Roisevclt's
handsome new colonial china service, mad s
express. y to order, would constitute the
largest single representation of china In
the great collection, yet such Is not tho
case. Mrs. Roosevelt's record as a pur
chaser of fine china was surpassed by Mr..
Cleveland, who left as a legacy to future
mistresses of the executive mansion 1,715
pieces of china. Yet, strangely enough.
Mrs. Cleveland never ordered a complete
china service, but merely made purchase
as occasion demanded. This same plan was
followed by Mrs. McKlnley, and more than
WO examples of her taste yet remain at the
White House.
Several of the earlier mistresses of th
White House exercised the prerogative of
the First I.ady of the Isnd and ordered
for use nt state and private dinners com
plete china services, exemplifying their In
dividual taste In form and decoration. Of
the service secured by Mrs. Lincoln less
than 150 pieces remain, and even a STial'er
remnant is left of the service chosen by
Mrs. fJrant. There Is a single plate of tho
Dolly Madison service, which stands an n
Frills of Fashion
Spanish lace is finding favor once more
and is used both for scarfs and parasols.
Orannle shawls of embroidered crepe aro
to be a part of the summer girl's outfit.
New h it straws are dyed to match all
the latest and most subtle colorings in
silk and wool.
llosierv Is even more beautiful than it
was last season. The heavy embroideries
are once more giving way to small dainty
embroider 'd sprays and figures.
Ripo apricot, sand color, cavalry, a
bcauiiful yellow with deep shading, puce,
a brown wilh a pink mauve tone, and
parchment white are new and popular
colors.
The tucker beloved of our grandmothers
is once more in fashion, and In lace, net or
sheerest lingerie m tiff appears InshU. tli2
low round decolletage of many of tha
newest evening frock models.
Huttons of suede overlaid with metal
are ono of the choicest novelties. The
bather makes a soft, rich surface back
ground for the metal, and is chosen to
harmonize with the frock material.
The soft leather bell Is evidently lo re
tain the vogue it acquired during the win
ter, and Is shown in almost all colorings,
with leather covered or metal buckles.
Some of the smartest Imported belts of
thin tdass have two-inch elastic set In over
the hips to insure the right clinging curve.
To accommodate the full skirts and do
away with the superfluous number of seams,
manufacturers are turning out all sorts
and descriptions of goods in extra widths.
Some of the new silks are forty-six inches
wide, and II Is possible to buy embroidered
Swiss and other lingerie fabrics In forty
two ii'ch widths.
The most exquisite of the new lingerie in
trimmed in the fine embroideries which
are the season's triumph. The new head
ings are especially pretty, the ribbons
being run under dainty clusters of flowers,
fl Mir de lys, etc.. Instead of Islng threaded
In and out of simple slits.
The extremist point of change In women's
footwear for the spring is in shoes and
stockings made to match street costumes.
The tnngueless shoe und the shoe, built on
the plan of the lid of a craiils-rry pie aro
to be in vogue, but whatever the design
It must match the skirt in color. Of com sc.
It will not be necessary to have the shoes
made of the same material as the gowns
an approxiinute matching of the coloring
will no very nicely, and the fashionable
shoe dealers have un abundant supply of
fabric-topped shoes. It is only women
who wmt lo lush a fad for all it is worth
that will have shoes made of the exact nut
teiial of their gowns. Many girls will be
content to wear patent leather low shoes
with spats made to match their street
suits, though naturally the complete shoo
Will be the smarter of the two.
lone rcmltuW of the china used during the
first half century of the history of the
White House, but, there are yet on hand
upward of too pieces of the .famous china
service painted for Mrs. Hayes by Theodore
H Davis.
Mrs. Roosevelt's new china Is Wedgwood
and was made In Kngliind, but almost all
the ntlcr ware at the White House Is llavl
land and wiib made at Limoges, France.
The decoration of the various services rep
resents a wide range of feminine taste. The
Lluoln china, the llrst service of the par
chase of which there Is nny record, was
ornamented In maroon, with the t'nitid
States seal In colors occupying a conspicu
ous position upon each piece,
A Unlet llonr.
ft.KASK stale to the court exactly
I I what you did between 8 and 9
I. J o'clock on Wed riesd.'i v fnornlni? "
mm
said the lawyer to a delicate look
lug little woman on the witness
stand In a I'lttsburg court.
"Well." she said, after a moment's re
flection, "1 washed my two children and
got them ready for school and sewed a
button on Johnny's coat and mended a
rent in Nellie's dress. Then I tidied up
my sitting room and watered my house
plants and glanced over the morning paper.
Then 1 dusted the parlor and set things
to rights In It and washed my lamp chim
neys and combed my baby's hair and sewed
a button on one of her little shoes, and
then I swept out the front entry and
brushed and put away the children's Sun
day clothes, and wrote a note to Johnny's
teacher uskihK her to excuse him for not
being at school on Friday. Then I fed
my canary bird and gave the groceryman
an order and swept off the back porch,
nnd then I sat down and rested a fov min
utes before the dis k struck 'J. That's all."
She'll a Metal Worker.
1110 has a little forge in one of I ho
rooms of her home, und thero
this clever New Kugland girl
works away with mital and semi
precious stones, turning out
buckles, buttons und odd dress ornament
that are the envy of ull who cannot afford
to buv them.
The fad Is a comparallvcly iu w nr.o with
her. Inspiration for it came on a recent
trip abroad when she became deeply In
terested in the exquisitely wrought metal
ornaments she noticed In the shops of the
dealers In antiques, it was the doblgua on
these ornaments that first uttract"d her
attention, because for a good many years
she had been Interest! d In the study of
design and had carried out many original
Ideas In embroidery.
When she got home she bought u forge
and tools and began work. Her small
forge biases uway day after day and her
enthusiasm keeps blazing uway, too.
The fad Is now tie. longer really a fad,
for she takes orders for her work and has
established u business of such proportions
that she is justified In believing tint she
can boon take another trip abroad to study.
She has made buckles her specialty.
"I was fortunate enough." she explained
to a friend, "to get my trade startel Just
when tho craze for fancy buttons was so
violent. Mv friends are nil crazy for thn
ones I make Iwcause I make them to go
with the gown snd I study the wearer's
Individuality. This old gilt set w!tli gar
nets was made to go with a beautiful deep
rud velvet clonk.
"Individualism In dress in all the go now.
That is why I have such a market for my
bluttons and dress ornaments. My custom
era know they are getting something po.il.
tlevly unique."
"Doe:i the work take strength?"
"Yes, and ixitlence."
