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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (March 27, 1904)
V ITow to Ureaa. URINQ the last ten yean there has D been rapid growth of rood Judg ment In relation to dress. It will be noted that certain styles which conform to the more graceful lines of the figure maintain a sort of vogue; that designers, Intent upon creating a complete change looking to the more rapid displace ment of fashion, are less succes-jful. If temporarily dispossessed, that which Is use ful and graceful soon returns. One reason there is a cry that there will be no more shirtwaists; the next, that the clinging skirt, falling In graceful folds. Is to be dis placed by flounces, or hoops, or what not. Hut It will be observed that every effort of this kind is followed by a reaction in favor of that which conforms to what Is best In art. The day of the nbsurd hoop skirt is gone forever. The (lay of over loading gowns wilh ornaments is rapidly disappearing. The evening gown Itself tends more nnd more to simplicity of outline. And In the world of ready-made c!othlnr, those who manufacture nre coming to note this growth in the direction of what Is true upon the part of even the least knowing of women. Tear by year, tho firms who know their business best are choosing rlmplcr lines, less of elaboration, less of ornament, and It has been noted that those who have their stocks unsold at the end of the season are almost Invariably manufacturer whrse poor tnste does not permit them to under stand this principle. Twentieth Century Home. Women Dentlntn to lie a Fail. f OMEN dentists are not numerous, but they have been Increasingly I I popular for some years past; nnd fEfyWjI now that Dr. Caroline Wolfs it " bruck of Manhattan has been making such a htt among fashionable and titled personnges on the other side tho mill pond they bid fair to develop into a Veri fiable fad. Dr. Wolfbruck's hit on the other side is personal and social rather than professional, inasmuch as sho went abroad for a holiday and proposes to have it. . Now there are three dental pchools in the state of New York, two in Manhattan and one in Buffalo, and two of them are to educational. The old established New York College of Dentistry still bars out petticoats, so that the only place In Man hattan today where a woman may become expert In that particular form of torture is the New York Dental school In Forty second street. There are about twenty of them there now studying und thei-e are pretty evenly distributed over the four years that go to make up the course. Out west co-education has a much stronger hold than it has In the more conservative east; the biggest schools and colleges admit women to alt their courses, and any of them that have dental schools at all graduate women as wt.'U us men, so the woman dentist Is much more numer ous there than she Is here. In Chicago, for instance, there are about 350 of her. Hut wherever she studies she must take the full four-year course. There Is not a school In the country where she can get her degree in less. That is settled by a national association of dental faculties and tho association a few years ago decided that three years was not enough, and the four-year course was substituted for the old three-year course. There has been con siderable grumbling at the ins of time Involved and it is possible that at a fu ture meeting the association may return to first principles. The mujorlty of the women now prac ticing In New York share offices lih men and act as their assistants, but thero aiw perhaps a score who are in business on their own account, and have built up very nice little practices of their own. Mont of these started out as Dr. Wolfs bruck did, with the Idea of confining their practice to women and children, but most of them have been obliged to forego such unjust discrimination, and most of them will own up, as Dr. Wolfsbruck does, that after all the men are cosier to work on. Needless t say, the men return the com pliment and And a woman's hands pie is anter and gentler than a man's. Brooklyn Eagle. Mrs. Roaaevelt's China. ' o i-j ciui nun tT-jrtrn ill fJ I the possession of a greater eol- " V a I !.(.... ,m .l.., ... , I- , Y O T4-W-lC3T7V-t.-T 1 - . J . . t - n ll-l.ll'MI i:i 1 11111,1 lllilll Vt iia III IIIU disposal nf any of her predeces sors as First Iidy of the Land. More than this, the present mistress of the White House has, what few if any former four-yeaT queens of the republic have had, a wealth of table appointments equal to the treasure trove of costly ceramics to ba found In the mansion of the American fam ily of great wealth where lavish entertain ing Is the rule Mrs. Roosevelt now has for use on her table upward of 6,000 perfect pieces of c hlna. Only dishes in perfect condition are in cluded in this enumeration, for, le It known, no piece of china mamd by tin slightest flaw is ever allowed to have place Chat About Women Miss Esther Allen Howland, who has just died at Qtiincy. Mass., male the first fancy valentine In this country. Mis Kdna Karle, a society womnn of Brooklyn, is planning to siiend a ear In the Sierra Nevada for the purpose of studying the manner of living of the hun dreds of people who, because of Illness or overwork, go to that section lo recuperate. The young woman will put her Information Into book form. She will start eirly in the spring and will carry a port. i hie th ick. Joule Smith, a young girl of Mount Oar mel. 111., daughter of a civil war veteian, who is sexton o fthe town cemetery, is the first feminine grave elzger of thit part of the country. Her father has be come too feeble to attend to the dutici of sexton and the girl has taken up the work, digging the graves and looking after ull the duties of her father. It Is a tussup since the last policy was taken out. which woman carries the heav iest life Insurance, Mrs. Inline! Stanford of California or Mrs. James Duns-nnlr of Toronto. The olils are in favor of Mm. Stanford, for she now is rat el at un even $l.00O,OH). There is no question they are the most heavily Insured wo'iien on the American continent and far ahead of any of their sisters in the eat. The next nearest is Mrs. I'.ail N. Duke nf Durham, N. C, who has policies amounting to t'SSi. 0i). Dr. Mary Walker, being In Washington, decided to attend the hciring nf the Smont case, but when she reached the committee room the place was so crowded that the doorkeeper would not let her pass. Sho cletmed to l,e a mimluT of the press, but could not show a newspaper worker's card. The doctor finally found her wav Into tho spectators' gallery, but had hardlv seud herself when the committee went Into ex ecutive session and she was hurr1e out with other visitors. She forgot a fine c ! lar, which she left on u seat, and had to wait until the committee adlmirned. several ho'irs later, before she recovered It It is raid that some of the doctor's rem irSs rii.r Ing this weary wait were almost masculine In their vigor. I'erhnps no woman has escaped the ob servation ( f the newspapers in resect of her charities as much as Mrs. Klliott K. Hlicpard. lmg liefore her husband died, a decade or more ago, this daughter of the house of V unite! hilt made sordid y miss her wh'le she gave her mornings to her chlMn n and her afternoons to the hospitals in whl 'h she was then, as now, interested. No wnmiii In the city gave so much time to practical charity from l.i; to l!l." and if Mrs. Shepard has withdrawn somewhat from her old activities l-eoauso of the sor rows that have come with the rears, her pocketlxHik still has the clasp oh" and her private secretary is kept busy doing sumo kindly act. on the presidential table. China so slightly chipped or cracked that the average house wife would pass over the defects Is rigor ously banished from the White House china clcsets as soon as the defect l noticed, writes Waldon Fnwcilt in th:' March Housekeeper. It might naturally be supposed that thii 1.VJM pieces comprlsisg Mrs. Roisevclt's handsome new colonial china service, mad s express. y to order, would constitute the largest single representation of china In the great collection, yet such Is not tho case. Mrs. Roosevelt's record as a pur chaser of fine china was surpassed by Mr.. Cleveland, who left as a legacy to future mistresses of the executive mansion 1,715 pieces of china. Yet, strangely enough. Mrs. Cleveland never ordered a complete china service, but merely made purchase as occasion demanded. This same plan was followed by Mrs. McKlnley, and more than WO examples of her taste yet remain at the White House. Several of the earlier mistresses of th White House exercised the prerogative of the First I.ady of the Isnd and ordered for use nt state and private dinners com plete china services, exemplifying their In dividual taste In form and decoration. Of the service secured by Mrs. Lincoln less than 150 pieces remain, and even a STial'er remnant is left of the service chosen by Mrs. fJrant. There Is a single plate of tho Dolly Madison service, which stands an n Frills of Fashion Spanish lace is finding favor once more and is used both for scarfs and parasols. Orannle shawls of embroidered crepe aro to be a part of the summer girl's outfit. New h it straws are dyed to match all the latest and most subtle colorings in silk and wool. llosierv Is even more beautiful than it was last season. The heavy embroideries are once more giving way to small dainty embroider 'd sprays and figures. Ripo apricot, sand color, cavalry, a bcauiiful yellow with deep shading, puce, a brown wilh a pink mauve tone, and parchment white are new and popular colors. The tucker beloved of our grandmothers is once more in fashion, and In lace, net or sheerest lingerie m tiff appears InshU. tli2 low round decolletage of many of tha newest evening frock models. Huttons of suede overlaid with metal are ono of the choicest novelties. The bather makes a soft, rich surface back ground for the metal, and is chosen to harmonize with the frock material. The soft leather bell Is evidently lo re tain the vogue it acquired during the win ter, and Is shown in almost all colorings, with leather covered or metal buckles. Some of the smartest Imported belts of thin tdass have two-inch elastic set In over the hips to insure the right clinging curve. To accommodate the full skirts and do away with the superfluous number of seams, manufacturers are turning out all sorts and descriptions of goods in extra widths. Some of the new silks are forty-six inches wide, and II Is possible to buy embroidered Swiss and other lingerie fabrics In forty two ii'ch widths. The most exquisite of the new lingerie in trimmed in the fine embroideries which are the season's triumph. The new head ings are especially pretty, the ribbons being run under dainty clusters of flowers, fl Mir de lys, etc.. Instead of Islng threaded In and out of simple slits. The extremist point of change In women's footwear for the spring is in shoes and stockings made to match street costumes. The tnngueless shoe und the shoe, built on the plan of the lid of a craiils-rry pie aro to be in vogue, but whatever the design It must match the skirt in color. Of com sc. It will not be necessary to have the shoes made of the same material as the gowns an approxiinute matching of the coloring will no very nicely, and the fashionable shoe dealers have un abundant supply of fabric-topped shoes. It is only women who wmt lo lush a fad for all it is worth that will have shoes made of the exact nut teiial of their gowns. Many girls will be content to wear patent leather low shoes with spats made to match their street suits, though naturally the complete shoo Will be the smarter of the two. lone rcmltuW of the china used during the first half century of the history of the White House, but, there are yet on hand upward of too pieces of the .famous china service painted for Mrs. Hayes by Theodore H Davis. Mrs. Roosevelt's new china Is Wedgwood and was made In Kngliind, but almost all the ntlcr ware at the White House Is llavl land and wiib made at Limoges, France. The decoration of the various services rep resents a wide range of feminine taste. The Lluoln china, the llrst service of the par chase of which there Is nny record, was ornamented In maroon, with the t'nitid States seal In colors occupying a conspicu ous position upon each piece, A Unlet llonr. ft.KASK stale to the court exactly I I what you did between 8 and 9 I. J o'clock on Wed riesd.'i v fnornlni? " mm said the lawyer to a delicate look lug little woman on the witness stand In a I'lttsburg court. "Well." she said, after a moment's re flection, "1 washed my two children and got them ready for school and sewed a button on Johnny's coat and mended a rent in Nellie's dress. Then I tidied up my sitting room and watered my house plants and glanced over the morning paper. Then 1 dusted the parlor and set things to rights In It and washed my lamp chim neys and combed my baby's hair and sewed a button on one of her little shoes, and then I swept out the front entry and brushed and put away the children's Sun day clothes, and wrote a note to Johnny's teacher uskihK her to excuse him for not being at school on Friday. Then I fed my canary bird and gave the groceryman an order and swept off the back porch, nnd then I sat down and rested a fov min utes before the dis k struck 'J. That's all." She'll a Metal Worker. 1110 has a little forge in one of I ho rooms of her home, und thero this clever New Kugland girl works away with mital and semi precious stones, turning out buckles, buttons und odd dress ornament that are the envy of ull who cannot afford to buv them. The fad Is a comparallvcly iu w nr.o with her. Inspiration for it came on a recent trip abroad when she became deeply In terested in the exquisitely wrought metal ornaments she noticed In the shops of the dealers In antiques, it was the doblgua on these ornaments that first uttract"d her attention, because for a good many years she had been Interest! d In the study of design and had carried out many original Ideas In embroidery. When she got home she bought u forge and tools and began work. Her small forge biases uway day after day and her enthusiasm keeps blazing uway, too. The fad Is now tie. longer really a fad, for she takes orders for her work and has established u business of such proportions that she is justified In believing tint she can boon take another trip abroad to study. She has made buckles her specialty. "I was fortunate enough." she explained to a friend, "to get my trade startel Just when tho craze for fancy buttons was so violent. Mv friends are nil crazy for thn ones I make Iwcause I make them to go with the gown snd I study the wearer's Individuality. This old gilt set w!tli gar nets was made to go with a beautiful deep rud velvet clonk. "Individualism In dress in all the go now. That is why I have such a market for my bluttons and dress ornaments. My custom era know they are getting something po.il. tlevly unique." "Doe:i the work take strength?" "Yes, and ixitlence."
