Comic Opera Existence in Corea ft- ' fc , Xt ' '..v ... . COREAN WIVE? IRONING. A COREAN SCHOOL. (Copyright, 1903, by Mary Gay Humphreys.) HIT.rc .liimin nml Ttn4sia nre tn:i W- lng faces at each other across I Corea. the Iinil of tho Mornlni? Calm retulus its composure and pursues an existence conipanible lo nothing outside of comic opera. A land in which the dynasty was hatched from nn egg; In which the men dress like old women; In which a bachelor, though an old man, Is regarded as an infant, U called by a pet name and talked to In baby talk; In which boys aro invariably married to women; in which men at nightfall are expected to stay Indoors and lot th Ir wives roam the streets and gossip with their friends; In which the poor take plain pills and the rich have their plllls decorated and elided, Is truly the Land of the Libretto. China Is the parent of Corea. In tho mists of ages the favorite of the king of a Chinese province, wandering by the river, saw a glistening vapor which floated Into her bosom and became an egg. From this was hatched a boy, whom the enraged king threw to the pigs. But the kindly pigs fed him with their breath, and the king, believing that heaven willed that the boy should live, took him Into the royal household, where he was called the Light of the East. The boy was skilled in archery, surpass ing every one. The king became jealous, and the boy fled. Coming to the river Yalu, he shot an arrow into the stream, and thousands of fish came and made a bridge of their bodies that he might pass over. When his pursuers arrived at the stream the finny bridge swam away, and they were left helpless. The Light of the East found an amiable people on the other side, who made him their king. Thus the king of Corea is re garded today as the Son of Heaven. In point of fact, ho Is the son of Tai-Won-Kun, and was appointed to the thro.io by the Dowager Queen Cho. His father and elder brother are his subjects, for primogeniture does not obtain in the Orient. LI Hsi, as the Corean emperor Is called, Is an amiable gentleman of 50, at present a widower if a gentleman with 100 concubines may be called a widower. Queen Min, who was murdered by the Japanese, was, the Americans living in Seoul say, a woman whose mental powers surpassed even those of that very remarkable woman, the emperor dowager of China. For over thirty years she was the power behind the throne literally behind the throne, for the queen, no more than any other Corean woman, could be viewed by men other than those of her Immediate family. The most subtle, diplomacy was conducted from behind a screen, and so ably that the only resource of her enemies was to kill her. Even this murder had its enlivening features. The American missionaries, who were the only people In Seoul that the king could then trust, took turns In guarding the king and the crown prince while they Blept. Another missionary and his wife cooked all the food that the hapless pair ate, sending it to them In a locked box, lest, after the Oriental fashion, they should be poisoned. Now enters the I.ady Om, concubine No. 1. Lady Om announced a venerable aunt with sudden cramps. It was necessary that she should leave the palace for her home, and Lady Om would accompany her. Two palanquins were ordered, and In the seclusion of the women's quarters the king and the crown prince were bundled In and escaped safely from the palace, where they were virtually pris oners, for a haven at the Russian legation. It must be understood that In Corea not even tho boldest of secret service men would dare to look Into a woman's palan quin. Naturally, ever since, Lady Om hns had lier hopes of advancement. It Is not amusing to be a widower In Corea. For three years the unfortunate must abstain from all pleasure, and go bout with a sort of gunny bag veil screen- ,. ... -.-.. w CITT GATE AT SEOUL. lng his face. Dlscipllno of this Bort facili tates marriage. Nevertheless, the king has thus far evaded the Iidy Om. She has her faction, which ascribes every national evil to the king's failure to take unto himself a new queen, and has memorialized the king in her behalf. Memorializing Is otvo of the occupations of Seoul. In front of tho palace (rates the sightseer never fails to behold a couple of men squatting behind a low stool on which lies a roll of paper. This Is the memorl il. There are memorials about cveryth'ng under the sun. Here they sit day after day, for time is of no conFoquence in Corea. Perhaps in time the memorial reaches the king, who In tma responds, perhaps In the summary fashion in which he responded to the memorial concerning I.ady Om. "April 27, 1S97. Reply to Kim Kon Vok and others. Your views are quite patriotic, but the government has laws and cere monies which do not require your sugges tions. Therefore, you need not confuse us any more by sending , us memorials. You are therefore ordered to go away." The king's tdlcts might be Issued by the sultan of a comic opera. After the Chines j JapaneBO war, which gave Corea its inde pendence, tho king determined to be abreast of the times. The army was taken out of Its petticoats and put into trousers, and the king ordered that the most sacred object, the topknot, as their gun-trigger style of hair dressing la called, be cut off. Thus the edict ran: "Laws and rules proceed from the king. Treaty relations must now be observed with the rest of the world, and changes be In troduced into politics. We have, there fore. Introduced a new calendar, a title of the reign, and changed the style of dress and cut off the topknot. "You should not regard us as loving in novations. Wide sleeves and topknots have become familiar by linage. The topknots and hair bands stand in the way of health as you know. "Nor is it right in this day of ships and vehicles that we should stick to these cus toms." This edict nearly created a revolution. To cut off the topknot, the Corean evi dence of dignity, was an abasement; and the amiable king finally let his own hair grow out and resumed his topknot. More permanent Innovations were his home and foreign oflices, with tlieir Cham I'an (help to decide) and their Cham Wl (help to discuss.) The difficulty of taking the!e dignities seriously sometimes disturbs the foreign ers. The secretary of state, as it were, wnt to see the German consul about somo disputed mining concession; and the Ger man pushed him off tb doorstcj) and shut tho door. The feelings of the official were so hurt that he went Home and resigned. The king has abandoned the palace In which the queen was murdered, and 1.1 building a new palace at the foot of the. slopes, on which the legations are housed, and where the frogs crouk by day and night. Here In an emergency he can climb over the wall Into the grounds of the Eng lish resident, or shin Into tho American minister's compound. The palace is a collection of Corean houses for the king's hundred of super numeraries and Is enclosed by a hinh wall. Except that he Is allowed to have more steps the king's houses do not differ greatly from other houses of the bettor sort. Hut unlike other householders the king can go on to one of his own roofs without asking hln neighbors' permission; a pro vision to keep the Corean from looking by chance at his neighbors' wives. The Corenn house has some beautiful features. Chief of these is the roof with Its re-entering curves. The roof Is tiled and the tiles rent on a bed of earth. In this the Moating seeds find :i place, and in the spring the roofs burst Into bloom and are gay with tulip, wild pink, forget-me-nots and riotous foliage. H'autiful woods and paper windows and walls are the other materials used. Nothing could be. more barren than tlui interiors of theso houres. Caught In a driving rain, we sought the shelter of a gate. A little servant ran out and insisted on our coming indoors. We were led through various courts until we reached the women's house. Here were two wives, whose delight ut our company was like that of children. They led us through their empty rooms, a low bed and a wardrobe furnishing a, room. Tho furniture, however, was im posing. The wardrobes were gaily decoruted with landscapes Inlaid with mother of pearl, and the hinges and locks were of ornamented brass. One conspicuous feature wns the cash tlust to accommodate the Corean money, of which the for Igncr frequently pays XJ cash for u sedan shopping excur sion and l,44io for a day's board. The Corean women wear a sort of Turk ish trousers anil several stiffly starched skirts. Over all tills is u very full skirt gathered to a band that reaches (he arm pits, the last garment being a tiny bolero. The band of the peasant woman Is much narrower and the Jacket so small that the baby, which she carries low on the back, sticks its lu-ud under its mother's arm and feeds Itself without disturbing her conver sation. The woman of position never goes abroad xcept In a. closed palanquin. Then she la pally painted nnd adorned with Jewels, liairpltiH being her favorite ornament. The middle class woman goes out, but wears over her h- ml a green silk coat. Which slm holds tightly with one hand so that her face cannot be seen. This coal hast sleeves so small that a child could not get Its arms into them. This Is u cuslom front time Immemorial, the origin of these use less sleeves 1 elng unknown. At home the Corean wife lool :s after the household, her chief duty being to see that her or their-husband's white gauze coats are smooth and shining. Ironing Is, In deed, a line art In Corea. This Is done wltlt two rounded sticks which the little women handle deftly. When Coreans talk It always seems as If the air were full of brickbats, eo harsh and curt is the tongue. Hut a group of Corean gentlemen on tho street in Ihelr long, white, shining coats, with their pipes and reti cules, always suggests a company of spick and span old women going to u tea party. Nothing Is ever seen like their head cov ering. This Is a tall, cylindrical hat, with wings woven of horsehair, and ho thin that the topknot can be plainly seen. This it Is etiquet not to remove. Even at Minister Allen's last Fourth of July re ception the Coreans kept on their hats. When a boy marries he puts up his hair and assumes this hat. If he does not marry he must wear his hair braided down his back In a pigtail, and has only a pet name and must submit to Itelng tootsle-wootsled until he is loothUss nnd dies. All Corenn bo.vs have a feminine appearance. The girls are never seen. The Corean gentlemun, unlike his wife, does not lack for enti rtalnment. He U devoted to nature, plenli s, fiaiti and the Corean geishu or gesang that Is to sa.y, singing girl. These girls are the necessary accoin lanlment of a c'.vlKzation that shuts up Us wives and sisters. As they depend on their attractiveness, they are taught to be gooil Matured, always pleasing, to ba accomplished, witty, to sing and to danoo. This necessity gives the gesang Incentive to Ftudy and tlmu for devoting herself to refined occupations. She dresses modestly, even when wearing the brilliant silks and gauzea of her calling, and what seems the greatest of her privileges, she can go freely abroad. After the feast, death Is tho greatest of Corean functions. Four duys after dying the departed has u send-off in tho fashion of a great feast, ills coffin is then pro vided with money and pieces of rich Bluffs for the journey. If he is a person of consequent o, the geomancer it culled In to determine the time of his burial. This may not be for three months. Tho family graveyards, which occupy an ino:dinate space of Corean territory, uro the. occasion of what are known as graveyard lights, in which the contending parlies toss out tho sacred unceslors' bones without ceremony. Corea Is the leust religious of all the na tions of the, east. A mild form of Con fucianism serves for ph.lopophy, and an cestor worship in the only thing that re sembles religion. There is not a temple In Seoul. In the country there are monasteries, but to the monasteries tho Corean gentlemen repair for their high revels. On the roofs of the Corean houses squat grotesque imago, intendtd to scare away evil tiptilLs, and beforo the doors of hovels are seen wisps of plaited straw and strips of garments for the same purpose. There are devil trees, also, on which tiVse strips hang. The Corean devil is to stupid that coming across theso strips he fancies he has the wearer of the clothes. The cultivated Corean gentleman Is a delightful acquaintance. He has a charm ing sense of humor, a lightness of touch In conversation and a pK-asing gallantry, all of which make him an eminently social person. The Coreans are good linguists, and thosa who speak Engliah do it without accent. MAHY GAY IJ UMl'UKEYS.