IBrrcmber, IS. 1001.
k .
Una M. CARTER, PIONEER MERCHANT. CONTRACTOR AND MANU
FACTURER, OF OMAHA.
Dainty
TXT IT T T TTX-mX7XI rorl.lun mnil'iU
iCX I has announced this season that
I h mflkH anenlnltv nf "flrpaa
waists." It la conclusive proof
that. In spite of predictions to tha
contrary! the aeparate blouse continues to
hold much of its old-time popularity. In
deed, there are many occasions where the
blouse Is almost a necessity. At the mati
nee and the afternoon card party It will
hold its own against all rivals.
The tailor-made girl insists on the sepa
rate blouse. For shopping and traveling
ahe weara the simplest of shirt waists, but
for more elaborate functions she Insists
on dress waists. The modistes are putting
forth their best efforts to meet her de
mands. The separata waists are more elaborate
than ever before, although their quiet ele
gance la not so striking as the ruffles and
furbelows which once adorned the dresa
waists. More costly fabrics are used
hand-painted and embroidered chiffons,
brocaded silks that stand alone and cob
webby films of lace.
Crepe de chine ia extremely faahionable
for dress waists. It lends Itself readily
to the fine shlrrlngs and cordlngs which
are now en regie, and haa a sheen which
many women prefer to that of smooth
finish silk.
A dainty theater blouse ia of white crepe
de chine, trimmed with square medallions
ef honiton insertion. White is the most
fashionable color for blouses, although an
occasional pastel shade prevents monotony.
This white blouse has long shoulders and
somewhat of a round yoke effect produced
by the honiton medallions. They are ap
plied obliquely down the front to within
alx inchea c?the waist line, and follow the
French curve which the waist displays.
The sleeves are tucked to the elbows and ,
have the circular flounces which are a
feature of some of the most stylish waists.
They are edged effectively with the medal
lions. This blouse, in common with most of the
dress waists, is fastened down the back.
The new style of trimming straight across
the bust to give the long, shoulder effect
Is interfered with ttxhe waiat la closed
down the front. The fastening down the
hack is sometimes made with Invisible
hooks and eyes, but tiny pearl or silk
erochetted buttons are even more fash
ionable. The sleeves of the new dress waists de
serve an article all to themselves. As ons
woman of fashion remarked: "The only
distinctive feature of most of the new
walsta are the sleeves. Otherwise they are
all alike as two peas."
In the main she is right The smart
woman must depend on sleeve arrange
ments as an outlet for her taste and
originality. There are bell sleeves with
tinder puffs of laoe or chiffon, sweeping
angel sleeves, and bouffant sleeves wltl
long and slender cuffs. This latter style to
perhaps the more feasible for daytimo
TUB
Dress Waists
the hand to prevent unwieldiness, while
tho deep cuffs accentuate the curves of a
pretty arm. In most cases these bouffant
sleeves are tight-fitting above the elbow
and, thence widen suddenly to remarkable
proportions. The tight-fitting effect above
the elbow is often obtained by a deep
sleeve cap, which may be a continuation
of the trimming across the blouse front.
"I have to have an extra dressing room
maid on my reception' days now," slid a
fashionable woman recently. "The long
shoulder effects and tight-fitting sleeve
caps on the new gowns will not permit
my guests to raise their arms above their
heads even to rearrange a stray lock of
hair."
The same thing is true of the separate
waists, but It in a style that is very be
coming to the girl with a good, broad pair
of shoulders.
Pastel blue is a new and fashionable
color. Bilk in that shade ia made up into
an attractive waist which will redeem the
severity of the tailored skirt with which
It is worn. It has a shallow rounded yoke
of folds of the silk joined by fagoting, and
the low crush collar is made In the same
fashion. Below the yoke runs a five-inch
band of cord shlrrlngs, bordered by three
tiny lace ruchlngs. This band ia continued
over to form the sleeve cap. The sleeve
baa the big puff below the elbow, falling
; J
I r
m-: 1:
ILLUSTRATED DEE.
?
it taw
S!
)-''
i
' h if
i
Jr
i t"
i
rBim msEsxxBCr mmr seastoer
PTTLA A BTEBRAaKA. BOX WUU
RATES XXVI.
for the Matinee Girl
over deep cuffs. The cuff Is itself orna
mented with a five-Inch band of the cord
shlrrlngs, and with an equal width of lace
ruchlngs. The effect Is extremely dainty.
The deep cuffs are of the cord shlrrlngs,
trimmed with medallions of Maltese luce.
Tho same medallions ar,e used across the
pouch of the blouse front. This has the
fullness laid in fine tuclts on either side
the bust below the cord shlrrlngs, while In
front It is simply gathered. Lace ruchlngs
are used to encircle the Ince medallions,
thus increasing the handwork required by
this apparently simple, but really elabo
rate blouse.
Lace ruchlngs are a favorite trimming
for all the eilk blouses. It Is a re'.lef after
the rather coarse laces which found favor
during the summer months. It shows the
Valenciennes and the finer mesh laces are
slowly coming back into favor.
Fagoting is much used and Is being put
to new and attractive uses. Where once
it was sufficient as a Joining for straight
bands applied either vertically or horizon
tally, it now forms part of elaborate spider
webs and intricate serpentine designs,
A pretty silk in a blue shade is com
bined with fagoting and ecru lace me
dallions in a grape design. The collar and
ahallow square yoke are of fagoting and
ailk bands. Below this come crescents of
fagoting and bands, alternating with the
OFFICERS' QUARTERS AX THE NEW CAVALRY POST,
13
- at-arms, ftaoship raittbow, ma-
HAS WON 1118 WAY IN TUB UNITliU
applied lace medallions. The yoke is con
tinued to form tho sleeve cap, similarly
trimmed with crescents and lace medal
lions. The sleeve itself Is of the silk elab
orately corded. It widens gradually into
a ruff above the deep cuff. As Is the case
with many of the sleeves, the lower part
of the puff is trimmed with wide fagoting,
garnished with the lace medallions. Tha
cuff is also of the fagoting and the silk
bands are ornamented with French knots
worked In black silk. The same handwork
adorns the collar. The blouse front la
corded In the same fashion as the sleeve
and has a tiimmlng of fagoting and lace
medallions down the left side.
Brocade silks are back in favor. Indeed,
flowered patterns are obtaining even
among the velvets. Borne of the patterns
hark back to tho days of our grand
mothers, hot have lost none of their fresh
ness through the lap ing years.
Waists of these flowered silks are gen
erally made along simple lines which will
best display the beauty of the material.
It would take but little to bring about
the crime of over-ornamentation, so In these
doubtful cases the wise woman has her
silk made up after a shirt waist pattern.
A charming silk waist Is patterned with
poppies In a Japanese design. No shirt
waist could be of simpler construction, and
(Continued on Pago Sixteen.)
x
FORT DES M0LNE3.
1
The big puffs are far enough from
3f ONOOMillSHIONED '..STAFF "QU ARTER3, FORT DES MOINE3.