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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 8, 1903)
What is Going On in Woman's World of Fashion EW YORK, Nov. 6. So much la a graceful softness now Admired In dress that even (own for the hardest service are, so to sneak, f tirbelnweri. The F!nvtfn1i tailor costume Is still In exigence, but the French creation Is the thing that fashion especially approves, and the majority of her - daughter are obedient to her com mands. The French creation, which Is something far more Ideal than a costume, when seen In Its beat shape, Is almost too subtle for analysis. Details are so gently and cunningly submerged In the whole that for a long while the beholder merely re ceives an Impression of completeness, as If the wearer' fineries were a part of her own prettlness. In fact. This suitability to individual type. and absence of hard lines now distinguish all Imp gowns of any degree of excellence. Those fashioned by private makers are as beautifying, and In a single costume as many a half a dosen different materials will be seen. Say a gown Is or some sort of wool cloth In shaggy black and white, or Mack, white and color.. In either event white panne velvet dotted with black may be us?4 In small quantities upon the bodice, which may likewise show a touch of r'lc h color, lace and passementerie. A costume of brown wool. In a soft, pale hade, was combined with green kid, coral panne, and yellow lace. The kid shaped In wide crush belt with a triple tongue, a narrow vest edge and sleeve straps. The coral panne was In the form of tiny folds, used upon the lace blouse and under sleeves, and the result of the combination was, something Indescribably harmonious. These soft, leathery shades of brown arc, with rich plum tints, among the choice colors of the season. Bometliues a gown In either color will be all In one tone, for a charming fad Is to have the braids, laces and embroideries used In the tint of the gown material. One such scheme Is dis played by a visiting gown In pale brown cloth and braid lace. Thta trimming, In deep pointed entrcdeux, la Introduced In tbe skirt, and na forms part of the round cape collar and puffed sleeves. The wa beauty who wore the costume for It wus part of a great shop display sported with it a neck piece and mutt in whole sable. H,r flattlsh hat was of brown vel vet, trimmed with a white plume and an under band of white satin gardenias. A second smart shop gown suggested the old Princess models In design. The skirt was cut to lie without a wrinkle over the Mp. the French back of the belled bodice Increasing the close-fitted effect. An odd feature of the get-up was a strip of block panne, which, running from the yoke, ex tended down the entire back ot the cta tume. Over this were looped black chenll'e cords with pendant ends. As the material of the costume was champagne-colored cloth, this contrast was superb. All sorts of fancy buttons with swinging ends are used upon, these handsome suits, which, as has been Intimated, may grace any oicnMen. With them, upon . the dressier visiting toilettes, will sometimes be combined bits of brocaded silk, bebe vel vets and the thin luce nets of the hour. A reception gown of French cloth In a faint plstache tint dubbed at one place Robes pierre green had such a voluminous and flxy skirt that one waa fain to see that something- more than the trimmings or the 60s has come down to us. The ribbon skirt frills edged and put on with the bebe vel vet were recognized as from this period; but why "Robeapleire green?" 'Oh," re turned the person who was showing off the toilette, "don't you remember that the wretch's complexion is always described as green T" The fragile touches on these visiting and reception toilettes are well-nigh number less. The lower portions of sleeves are frequently of chltTon In folded tucks, flounces of chiffon or lace will show under HOMES the edge of skirts, and into the sol Id est silk will be Inserted fairy Insets of gause and lace. Upon cloth gowns for more practical service odd strappings of the same will frequently be used with stylish effect. A trig gown of plum -colored cloth shows these strappings on both the skirt and Eion coat. The band of the coat Is placed low around the shoulders, to Increase the long effect now admired.' The" ends of it form the vest of the Jacket which Is worn over a blouse of white poplin and lace. The headgear which accompanies these street toilettes partakes of the same dressi ness. In truth, so fixy are the majority of the new hats that the woman to whom a plalnlah headpiece Is a necessity finds it difficult to be suited. Salient featurea of all millinery are the marked lifting of crowns and up-curving brims. Nothing rents upon the head with the absolute flatness of re--cent headgear, and so completely and so quickly have the times changed that wear ers of such- styles produce the impression of being utterly out of date. Brim hats In the new oval form, flaring away from the face, are liked, by young women of extreme tastes, whose youth and good looks carry them oft well. But ma turer faces require the sort of thing usually dubbed sensible. 'Admired styles for these types are the stiff box turbans, but the fancier made turbans lend themselves to many types, and In consequence are more worn. The boat model is more seen In such headgear than any other, a blunt, stern and pointed front distinguishing this. - The turban Itself Is oftener In made shape than In trimmed form, velvet cloth of felt being used In Intricate folds and puffings over buckram frames. At the left Fide drooping ornaments of some Bort are much seen, sometimes made cock or pheasant plumes, and sometimes a fancy fall of chenille or Jet. Slides and. buckles of Jet and steel ure other ornaments for those practical hats, which accomplish a degree of becomingness rare In ordinary street millinery. If you must economise on your winter get-up, don't let your hat feel the skimp ing, for. topped by correct millinery and gloved and booted neatly, many a defect In the rest of the toilette may be hidden. Simple us they sound and look, the new hats cannot be turned out by every home mljlfner. Experienced lingers are needed tq give them the proper cachet, and especially la this so with the turbans, which In home- A Boon to Housewives I1INA In open stock sets Is one of the conveniences of the present day. The increasing prevalence 41 I of the course dinner and the Tir r t li'A nf lifttnir ipvapuI vuHa. ties of china for .its service Is largely responsible for the change. A woman who aome years ago purchased a handsome din ner set now feels that If she used it alone she would make a poor showing before her guests. Different - plates are used for every course. The service plates are of particu larly fine china. The plates for the meat courke are of a simpler and more substan tial design than those for the dessert, and the fter-dtnner coffee Is served In cups aa delicate as can be found. In the larger establishments dinner Is served from the butlwr's 'pantry. Many of the dishes used In ai simpler menage where the roast and Its accompaniments are placed on the table are not required In the former case. The needs of the different housekeepers are aa varied aa the houses In which they live. It .is no more expensive to have several different kinds of china than to have all the pieces alike. Open sets have made this possible. Within the last five years tfeaM have Increased in sis and number. Now there Is practically no style of china that cannot be bought in open stock. A set of china which the merchant keeps on hand and from which his customer makes her selections Is much more com plete than the one he would have formerly sold her entire. lie Is prcpured to suit all tastes and meet alt needs. He has teapots In all sises, chocolate pots equally varied and sugar bowls and creamers to match. A woman with a large, small or medium family finds it exactly the set slse she requires. If 'her family Increases she la able to increase her number of pieces and to obtain the larger elites. It is also possible to replace any pleoe of china. The housekeeper la not, as In the old days, heartbroken over the loss of a dish. It can easily be duplicated. There are open sets not only In the fine china, but in the pottery. In this leaa expensive ware are delightful reproductions or old-time dark blue with quaint little low teapots, augar bowls and creamers. The pottery In lighter colors, tn pinks and In plnka and greens combined, has some thing or the art iwuveau designs. They are pelasing, even If they have not quite the charm of reproductions. WAISTS SHOWINO DECORATIVE COLLARS. made shape are sometimes anything but pleasing. At many of the large shops 3 Is charged for making a hat and tl.60 for trimming a set shape. Among these last are numbers of high crowned velvet and beaver hats npon which black ostrich feathers are much used. Late models in odd blouse waists run more to elaborate collars than other trim mings. Upon soft moire and gros grain silks, and on other silks which have a definitely poplin finish, batiste laces In plain white and cream are much employed for them. The collars are frequently placed below the stocks, with a round neck line and tabs running far down upon the sleeves. At the front similar tabs may form double stoles, but the cuff of a blouse so decked are as often of the plain bodice material as of the trimming. One blouse of white Russian crash a wash material which nearly resemble kitchen toweling In quality boasted such a collar and cuffs of red Russian embroidery. Teneriffe wheels and edgings appear on waist of the lightest silks, a well aa on a bodice of silk mull, whose hand-run tucks and other dainty stltcherles are not the least -of their charms. No longer doe woman wear somber color and burdensome materials because the calendar tells her that winter Is here. Mora white cloth evening gown are sent than cloth gown In color, and the daintiest negligee are all In wash materials. A for hats, so widespread Is the demand for light weight that many are made of the most delicate silk and mohulr braids. All tulle and lace winter hats are likewise seen, and the most charming or the evening wraps are in white or delicate pastel tints. Every thing Is now done for the glorification of woman's charms, and they must be of an Inferior grade, indeed, if they do not respond to the hour's tenderness. What being could seem plain when surrounded by such things as wreaths and garlands, plumes, undersleeves, spangles and frillsT Some or the house effects designed for bride and other lucky beings are strik ingly artistic. A petticoat and kimon sacque compose one bewitching little negligee which Is seen in wash silk and lace, and mull and lace. The petticoat are often kilted and made to trail somewhat, and the ribbon drawstrings form sash end when tied. More than one of the little jacket which accompanies these ' has the pointed handkerchief fall at the bottom now In vogue. Frequently the klmona I entirely formed by a deep lace attached to a round or pointed yoke, flowing angel sleeves being made in the same way. With uch jackets, which are built upon white' or colored silk linings, a black silk skirt will supply a costume suitable for an in formal luncheon or tea. A breakfast toilette for a bride Is mad of marigold silk with a brocaded pattern of white bud and green leave. A petti coat and handkerchief kimona compose the model, whose flouncing skirt Is cut short enough to display high-heeled bronco Uppers. Upon this wide lace I looped in garlands, headed by other garlands of narrow white and green ribbons. Rosette of the same hold these at the points. MART DEAN. rn " 1 " r v-JaWaBj swsafJTsswkttllalW -iasai J if fn If !1M t 1 Dust docs it makes the com plexion look like a London fog, thick, dingy, dull. Wise men and women combat dust with I Woodbury's Facial Soap - Revivifies the skin, leaves it as smooth, I - - . m 4 dear and rosy as a baby s cheek, r or iaces. Your dealer h-s It. aS cents cake. C-rlsl nffr Our booklet, trial sUe package apeci&i oner o( &otip and FacU1 Crelrn sent for 6 eta. to par postage ; or for 10 cts. the game and sample of Woodbury's Facial Powder and Dental Cream. Address Dept. 17 jftw Trade rm mark package THE ANDREW J ERG ENS CO., Sol Owners, X Cincinnati, 0. r