What is Going On in Woman's World
A ., I ' II 'I
" - -Wist . x-
I look upon the new styles in hair
I . I I 1 .. .. I . ,
1,1 mm lift in iu vuilTlllie lUf U
holder that fashions have reached
a very ceremonious stare. Not
since the days of recognized wigs have
Coiffure effect been more stately, and not
since the mar.pl ve chignon took its poufs
and side curls to the utoreroom of passe
modes huit so much false hair been worn.
Imhrd, It la the lightly thatched woman
who Is now the next off. for only mragerly
dowered heads can lend themselves to the
numhci less "transformations" employed.
A transformation Is tm artiliclal piece
f hair of nny sUo, which may be put
Underneath or over the natural hair. If
disposed outside, It In attached to a frag
ment of net which so nearly simulates the
human sculp that it Is difficult to dis
cover the subterfuge. If the hair at the
top of the held Is thin, a Kelf-dlvlding and
adaptable trariHformatlon may be used,
which permits of u center or side parting
or pomapdour effect. AKaln. the maid of
nuager Klory will achieve her pompa
dour throiiKh the medium of a "frame,"
or throiiKh a lonK fringe with a cord Un
Ish. Kit her of thene nre fantened across
the top of the head from car to car, the
tin I u ml hnir Bolntf over the art Itli lnl, or
the frame, which Is a shell round comb and
bundeuu combined.
l'or many heads the rat la all that ia
net'ss:iry to rala the pompadour to stylish
hdKhu. though many a mnid will crepe
or French her locks besides.
Thin rulTtlnir of the hulr, which is done
by combing it toward the roots, ia injurious
In the long run; but po many curative treat
ments nre continually employed that, de
spite the rutfllntf, the heat of the false
piece, and the deadly crimping Iron, the
health of the average head of hair I rather
toward Improvement than decline.
NumlM-rlcsH are the expressions of the
motllxh pompadour, whose main tendency
Is rather to mount ut the middle of the
head than to spread at the temples. But
the long, looflo puff thus raised has many
plume, toppling over the forehead in what
ever way beconilni; to the wearer, and pro
ducing in numhcrlcHH instances the coiffure
now recognised as dl-ttinctlve of the theat
rical xhow Kill.
alalris and matrons of more moderate
taxtc are content with a modllieU topple,
u i id since the uiilnoken puff is becoming
to only the iiiont clatslc features, light
partings und lovelocks have come to glor
lly aiders.
For every-duy life and the high-necked
street gown, there ia not much scope for
elaborate, coluuie effecta. The majority of
hats requiring a high dressing, a soft
round knot Hanked by round and side
coinlm the color of the hair Is most fre
quently seen. Shell slides hold up the
loose hairs, and when the hut Is removed
nine times out of ten a Mack taffeta or
velvet bow la revealed ubove the left side
of the knot.
It is only with the evening costume of
low cut that the set elegance of the present
coiffure 1m fully displayed. Then nn 1m
pivMHion is received of superbly rippled
frjnt locks, of back ones braided, puffed
and! curled and caref.sing the nck In ob
long or round knots, shining with care
and cdoious with delicate scents. Some
tlmea natural or artillclal flowers or rib
bon rosettes form part of the hack ar
rangement, thtse coining as near the ears
as MsvihIe.
When dressed higher a wired bow or
osprey pompon may effect that aristocratic
look which any stand-up ornament rives
the bead, and those women accomplished
In the art of clothes carefully consider tta
airajtfi-emertt l the out of the bodice.
llettda properly dresevd for etening func
CHARMING PHASES OF THE NEW E
tions have exactly the polished finish of
the wax cranlums In the coiffeur's window.
Needless to say, their magnificence Is often
est really due to this artlst'a skill, for
not all amateur fingers can coax locks Into
the studied loveliness necessary.
Dressed completely, the party-going girl
awaits the coming of the prestidigitator
of beauty, who begins proceedings by
covering over the fineries, of his client with
a huge towel. Then, calling the woman's
comb and brush to his aid, he begins, with
his own bags and boxes open. The trans
formation may even be a toupet, a wig
In the germ stage, but invisible and visible
hairpins are soon about him, straight locks
ripple, and presto, change! the charming
vision rises from her chair, delicately
coaxes her eyebrows te a droop at the
outer corners and says coolly: "Do you
think I'm rouged enough for that effect?"
The cut of the bodice In not the only
thing to be considered with a stylish hair
arrangement, nut think how times have
changed, when woman dares admit she
uses the boughten blush.
Frills of Fashion
Brmlno hi, also Imitated in silk and is
uaed for trimmings.
Tokes and sleeves of evening gowns are
made of gold net.
Jet chains are relieved here and there
with a small bead of gold.
Fringes of other sorts, like chenille, wool,
and silk, are in for a distinct revival.
Moleskin and chinchilla are very success
fully imitated in a fine quality of plush.
A new style of hand mirror chows one side
ordinary glass and the other magnifying.
Borne of the large collars are hemmed
with chenille and trimmed with lace of
the same hue.
Panne de chine Is a new stuff, which
lends Itself to trimmings of tea, gowns and
to many other uses.
A belt novelty is one of crushed leather
with small medallions united by chains
in imitation of metal girdles.
Ermine Is employed as a trimming for
all descriptions of garments and la fre
quently mingled with mink and chinchilla.
The Henri Deux hat, with pointed peak,
high crown, and nhaiply turned up brim
at the buck, la greatly in favor Jut now.
Spangled robes appear In brilliant color
ings such us red, blue and gold, the Kequlne
being closely massed In Van Dyke effect.
Heco ml lioness Is the first rule with re
gard to a veil, and for general wear the
most becoming is a line Uiaiuond-meahcd
net, without spots.
Navy blue in a leading color and a re
lieving mite, is introdu-ed in pipings, fac
ings, strappings and the machine stitching
in fawn, ivoiy and white.
Short coats and waistcoats of canvns,
with thick ro;-l for linings, for the auto
mobillHt are to be succeeded thLs year by
long wool-lined coats of corduroy,
A tuavy machine stltcheiy la being
largely employed as decoration on the lat
est tailor mades of best repute. 11 is in
the nature of au ordinary stitch worked
with a very loose tension, and In close
Hues.
A pink chiffon fancy bodice has a packet
effect given It hv means of licuvy cords
covered with the chiffon. This Is a pile
pink, and it Is made up with onlv one
thickness of the materl il over the lining,
but the cords with th chiffon closely
shirred deepen to a rute tint.
Some of the uew muffs ar anon the
uglivst thing imaginable, but ihev have
advantages. They are big. buglike 'affairs,
a detp pouch forming the lower part, and if
it could be used for that purpose large
enough for a traveling bag. The oM-niag
for the hands is not In the center of tho
sale, tiut in the very top, where there are
smail round holes Just large enough to ud
mlt the hands, but no unnecessary cold ulr.
A handkerchief It utilized In an attract
ive way In making h set of narrow turnover
collars and cuffs. The handkerchief has a
narrow hem and Is edged with hue. The
collur Is dimply made of one side, including
two corners, of the handkerchief. These
corners are used for the front or hack of
the collar where the ends meet. The euffs
are ingeniously made, one of the corners
forms he center of each cuff, a little box
plait being taken In it to give It the proper
straight line to the edge, which, fits ever
the fcleeve.
VETTING COIFFURE.
With heads getting more and more pre
tentious In their dressing, it follows that
costumes, too, must. In a measure, turn
to stately effects. The influence of the
days of puffed, curled and powdered wigs
are already felt in some evening frocks
lately Imported. Narrow silky ribbons and
wreaths and garlands of small artificial
flowers are employed upon such of these
as are fashioned In diaphanous materials.
With gowns In the stiff silks which are to
be again much worn, satin ribbons will
form the wreaths and garlands, whose
courtly prettlness Is much admired.
An evening costume in pink and blue
pompadour silk displays these ornamenta
tions in pale pink satin ribbon. The
wreaths, which have the classic tying and
short ends, are disposed upon a white silk
and chiffon skirt apron and upon the
bertha and cuffs of the sleeves. The back
and side breadths of the skirt are very
full and are made to stand out with a
light Interlining of crinoline.
A similar stiffness Is carried to the
For and About Women
Miss Ollvt. Hack us has Just closed by res
ignation her continuous service of forty
three years as a teacher in the public
schools of Chicago. She is 70 years of ago
and is going to California to make her
home there. She has taught 20,0H) pupils,
and an effort ia being made to get as many
of the survivors together as possible for a
monster reception to her before her de
parture for the Faclne Coast.
In an effort to organize in Paris a club
for American girls and women Mist; Nina
Kstabrook, publisher of the Paris World
and a former Chicago girl, has been In Chi
cago for the paat few days. It is her plan
to establish in the French capital a club
similar to the Empress club in I-ondon. If
it is formed Miss Kstabrook Intends it
shall become the headquarters for Ameri
can women traveling In France.
Miss Carro M. Clark of Roston has the
distinction of being the only woman at the
head of a book-publishing concern In Amer
ica. Se he'leves thoroughly in the efficiency
and ability of women and has proved her
loyalty to her sex by putting women in po
sitions which generally ure tilled by men.
Her bookkeeper Is a young woman, her ad
vertising manager and literary adviser Is
a woman and even her shipping clerk ia a
woman.
Kronson Howard, tho dramatist, indig
nantly denies that New York women, out
sid. of the "40," are addicted to drink, hut
declares that thore of what has come to be
known as "tha fast set" Indulge to a de
plorable extent. Such women, however, urn
In his opinion Ignored by refined person..
Mr. Howard says that stories are heard
daily in New York of women who become
more or less Intoxicated at dinners and
other functions.
Miss OabrleTe Townsend Stewart was ad
mitted to practice in the supreme court.
New York, Tuesday by the Justices of the
apellate division on motion of Walter S.
1'Ogun. She said to be the first woman
lawyer admitted on motion ufter practice
In another state. Miss Su wart was ad
mitted to the Ohio bur in lH) and practiced
in Cleveland, where r-he achieved promi
ii nee by freeing a client indicted for burg
lary by invoking an old common law doc
trine. In consequence of this case the legis
lature passed u special act to correct the
law.
Mrs. O'Ktefe of Savannah, though never
herself a quec n, Is, it appears certain, to
enjoy substantial advantages from the cir
cumstance that her lute hifelmnd, upon be
ing shipwrecked on a South Si-a savage
island, set up ns king of Yap and took to
himse'f a duskv consort In the person of
the W 'ecu of Dolly hoy Island. The king
of Yup exhibited as a royal personage a
canny, albeit an adventurous and pleasure
lcvlng character. He went Into trade his
Island subjects being free from prejudices'
prevailing in Europe bu'lt a fleet of
schooners, made money uud put it carefully
pway in the English bonk at Hong Kong.
His widow she of Savannah is now con
soled for her husband's lou- absence and.
untimely demise by the prospect of a for
tune of JMIO.'iOu lovlng'y devised her bv thrt
deceased king. This la not a plot for a
comic opera; it U a plain recital wf a news
tor)' of the day.
of Fashion
bodice, whose cut Is below the shoulder,
and whose foundation begins with white
silk, over which chiffon is placed. T'pon
these is put a double bias of the pompa
dour silk, the two forming a Jacket and
bertha look. At the front of the waist a
puff of the plain white shows, and it is
girdled high with panne velvet in a deli
cate asure. The sleeves are short puffs
with elbow falls of kilted chiffon.
A second gown, which is almost too
fairy-like for either verbal description or
pictorial illustration, is of white point
d esprit spangled with silver and trimmed
with pink ribbon with silver rejections,
artificial flowers and French lace. This Is
deposed In a skirt border between bands
of the ribbon, which, at the hips. In hori
zontal strips, shapes a pointed yoke. Be
tween this and the skirt border the pink
wreaths, tied and garlanded together with
ribbon and lace, are placed above a row of
separate scattered ones. A deep bertha of
the spangled esprit, decked as Is the skirt,
and a girdle of pink louisine are the
features of the low sleeveless bodice.
For gowns in these reminiscent styles;
there are details which accentuate their
courtly suggestion satin and kid slippers,
whoso high heels, which are evf-n occa
sionally red; stockings which may show
stiff floral vases, and all the tiny fins of
the Louis epochs. The embroidery, op.-n
work or lace of the stockings is routined
to the front of tho leg. as side trimmings
are apt to disfigure that member. Tiny
oval mirrors frequently enhance feminine
appreciation of the fans and their spangled
and painted glories are framed In mother
of pearl.
A choice dcdign In nny of thse I,ouis
fans costs anywhere from J:5 to J1.V. Many
are even dearer in price, but quite reason
able imitations art seen in silk, gauze, and
even paper, which ore astonishingly pretty.
Conventional evening f istiior.s are. of
course, everywhere seen, but the taste of
tho fastidious is running nwro and more
toward revivals. Anything which crtates
an effect quaint to the majority is seized
upon. "1 woBiier," said an old-fashioned
soul the other day, "whether a rettiru to
ancient siatclltK s will fleet an improve
ment in our manners. With shepherds pip
big to their mistresses, upon fans, with red
hei'ls. garlands, stiff silks and coiffure
like wigs, the women of today certainly
should acquire mine of that deportment
which mad.? women of the long ago such
breakers of hearts. Since the taJlor-m ids
glil was born, with her mannish stride,
stiff lines aid hearty -ha: ha" the soft
nesses of American womankind have all
but disappeared."
An indescribable number of textiles. In
troducing gilt and silver motives, iipxux
among the new evening materials. Tin-Be,
When suflicienlly Elmp'c-, permit of very
girlish effects, for all the lines of fashion
strive l'or the narrow hips and clelli ute
pliouldtis of youth. Many of the most de
lightful of the French gowns, in fact, ure
so treated nt these points as to exaggerate
their slimness, and with the really thin
maiden n pnrcr doll look Is the result.
Ilowfvir. she Is usually a very 'harming
paper doll, nr.d when the flouncing lo'tom
of her outside skirt Is lifted It Is se.n that
the elaborate shaping of the petticoat
flounces have much to do with its set.
A new petticoat with splendid "stick out"
qualities at the bottom has a plain shuptd
flounce bordi red with bias. Cut at the top
in deep shallows that form a garland lino,
this Is hung over three narrow frills, two
edging the widest. At the top of the petti
coat a new method of cutting achieves
a closely fitting look without the discom
fort of the ordinary snug tit.
MAltY DEAlt