Long Skirt Coats Are Strongly
IBI
u i i uo nui use inpsp, saiu ihh
American woman Impatiently. "I
want one of the long skirt coat;'."
The French modiste shrugged
her fat shoulders dcprecatingly.
"We have them not, mndame."
It was too true. The American glanced
down the long anion and saw drew coats
And wraps of every material and color. But
Whatever their length, whatever their or
namentation, they were all after one model
loose and flowing.
The Bklrt coat 1m a distinctly American
creation. It marks a daring step taken by
the American modistes In thus disregarding
the dictates of the Parisian arbiter of
fashion. The long skirt coats are becoming
to so great a variety of figures that the
style will have a greater following than
ever this winter In this country. It will be
followed, however, mostly in the coats of
suits. Paris has been too long the teacher
to take reudily upon herself the attitude of
a pupil. Therefore, the Imported dress
coats will be loose.
Perhaps with the idea of making them
more acceptable to the American market,
these loose coats are more beautiful than
ver and moro richly trimmed. Color con
trasts are more strongly emphasized In the
trimmings, and elaborate applique of silk
r cloth tell the tale of Infinite handwork.
A delicate gray etamlne coat comes half
Way between the hip and knee, and Is lined
with pale blue watered silk. Around the
Beck and down the front runs a three-Inch
wide band of white and silver passemen
terie. It Is a design of white popples on a
liver liackground, and the poppy leaves are
delicately tinted with pink. The sleeves are
full, with a decided puff below the elbow.
Hut the fullness Is drawn Into an oddly
shaped cull of the passementerie. The coat
Is closed down the front with silver cord
With long tassclled ends.
The crare for Oriental fabrics and col
orings seems to be shifting from the
Japanese to the Chinese. At least a mem
Unique Ways of Celebrating Wedding Anniversaries
LONG with the revival of old
fashioned ideas In dress, the
twentieth century woman Is tak
ing up a custom that has gradu
ally fallen into disuse these many
A
M8.
years ago the celebration of wedding an
niversaries. She las gone back to the be
lief of her grandmother that it Is a gocd
thing for the wife to make much of the
anniversary daya in order to keep the
heart young and to renew the ties which
were formed In the daya of courtship.
According to the tradition of ages there
are fourteen anniversaries to be celebrated.
Theee are:
First year, eotton; second year, paper;
third year, leather: fifth year, wooden; sev
enth year, woolen; tenth year, tin; twelfth
year, silk and fine linen; fifteenth year,
crystal; twentieth year, china; twenty
fifth year, silver; thirtieth year, pearl;
fortieth year, ruby; fiftieth year, golden;
seventy-fifth year, diamond.
The first ten wedding anniversaries give
cope for the most variety in the way of
entertainment, as many Ingenious things
ran be planned at a small expense. After
the tenth year it is necessary to entertain
en a more elaborate scale.
With tho revival of this custom comes
an Innovation for the first anniversary.
Which Is sometimes varied by being called
a sugar wedding, and which gives oppor
tunity for much merriment in the way of
a candy pull and similar gaiety.
In any event, the form of invitation is
a follows:
1902. 1903.
Mr. and Mrs. Oeorge B. Root re
quest the pleusure of your company
on Thursday. October 15, at 8 o'clock
in the evening.
414 Maple avenue, Detroit.
It goes without saying that the special
anniversary must be indicated by the dates
at the top. The Invitation Itself may be
written or etched on the material which
the anniversary stands for.
If the sugar wedding is celebrated In
stead of the cotton on the first anniversary,
the invitation may be sent on large candy
hearts. A novel idea is to have a Noah's
Ark for the centerpiece on the table. This
should be made of candy. Any ingenious
woman can make it herself without the aid
of a caterer, if she will buy a mould the
shape of a boat, and make her candy of
light brown sugar to give the correct tint.
For sails she can dismantle an ordinary
child's sailboat or use common manila
paper pasted on flag sticks. The animals
may all be made of sugar, molded Into
Shape while the candy Is warm, or made
In animal molds. Kaislns, dried currants,
cloves and allspice are excellent accessories
for eyes, ears and nones. In lieu of better
material for tails, wrapping twine and
shoe strings will do.
The ark may rest on a mirror to represent
the sea. Near by should be a strip of land
ML Ararat elevated and rocky, with
green things growing. Some of the aalmaU
should stand in the boat, others may be
on land, but each one should hare a ribbon
tied about Its neck and be attached to the
place card ef the guest to wham U Is la
ber of the "400" has started the. tide of
fashion In that direction. She Is a collector
of some taste, and possesses some beautiful
Chlneso dresses and embroideries. At
recent function she attracted attention by
her wrap. It was in reality the loose,
Jacket of a Chinese costume In a rich
golden brown with a wealth of hand em
broidery In gold, coral pink, emerald green
and dull blue. Although blxarre. the rich
mingling of colors and the elegance of the
brown silk made it a strikingly effective
wrap.
Indian embroideries a re being used as
well as the Chinese on drrss coats and
wraps. It is not unusual In a shop which
deals In eastern fabrics and curios to tind
a woman in the upholstery department
seeking for bits of embroidery which may
be utilized for coat or dress trimming.
"Our foreign buyers are making a regular
business of hunting up such scarfs," the
clerk explained.
Hut among all these brilliant color fan
cies, blark and white effects hold their
own with undiminished popularity.
A black satin-faced broadcloth makes a
"stylish reception or evening wrap. It Is
cut after one of the new long shoulder
effect models, and the yoke extends half
way down the arm and forms the cup for
the full sleeve. The front and back nre
shirred to this yoke, to fall In straight
folds. There Is a parrow vest of black
velvet, braidexl in black and silver. The
front falls open to show a facing of black
velvet, on which wide white crepe tks lire
drawn through velvet loops. The loose
bell-shaped sleeves are shirred Into tho
yoke caps. They are trimmd around tho
bottom by double rows of black and silver
braiding. The same braiding outlines the
oddly-shaped yoke and emphasises the line
of the shoulder. The coat la collarless and
the neck is finished with black chenille
fringe mixed with silver.
The military cape coat Is another out
growth of the whim for long shoulder
be given as a souvenir. Candy canes for
the men and candy flowers for the women
will also make good souvenirs.
Candy refreshments in the guise of fish,
fruit and vegetables should masquerade for
the occasion in dainty candy and bon bun
boxes.
One of the prettiest cotton weddings re
cently given was a colonial affair. The In
vitations were etched on white pap r
cambric and issued according to the usual
form. In the lower left corner were tho
words: "Please come in colonial costume."
As a result the men came attired in
cavalier costume and the women in colonial
dress fashioned from the various colored
paper cambrics, all becomingly slashed
and befrilliMl. Powdered wiga and queues
helped to carry out the idea, which was a
decided success, particularly the cotillon
In "the wee sma' hours" whe.i candlet
burned low.
For a paper wedding fancy can run riot
with artistic results, for one can purchase
crepe papers in exquisite shades and with
floral designs that rival real flowers them
selves. In spring or summer a cherry blossom
fete, a la Japanese, could be carried out
nicely and would be most upropriate. For
such an affair the invitations should br
sent out on small Japanese fans which
have cherry blossoms painted on them.
The guests may be requested to come in
crepe paper kimonas and parabola, or thu
host, hostess and their waiting maids alone
may receive in Japanese costume.
If the weather Is pleasant, Jap-inese
lanterns may be suspended from the trees
about the lawn or the house may be deco
rated with lanterns and paper garlands.
The mantel and corners should be banded
with cherry blossoms made out of crepe
paper, and In one comer of the drawing
room a bower may be made for the bride
and groom. For this the background may
be of decorated crepe paper In Japanese
For and About Women
Mrs. Kdith Maynard has been appointed
postmistress at Sheboygan, Wis., a city of
13. UH) inhabitants.
The portrait of the dowager empress of
China, now being painted by Miss Kate
Augusta Carl, an American artist, is to be
placed on exhibition at St. Iouis next year
by the consent of her majesty, who, it is
said, will also send other exhibits.
For the first time in the nlstory of Co
lumbia university a woman has been di
racvtly appointed to a professorship by the
bourd of trustees. The new professor is
Miss Margaret K. Maltby. Ph. I)., a gradu
ate of Barnard, who will be installed at
the beginning of the academic year as ad
junct professor of physics.
Mrs. Minnie F. Folllett of Cleveland is the
only woman banker west of New York. She
has recently opened an institution where
women can speculate in stocks. All the
employes in the oflloe are women, and girls
instead of boys will mark the boards. Mrs.
Folllett was the tirst woman in the real
estate business in Cleveland. She also
started the Union Investment company and
was its manager for about three years.
Mrs. Penelope Morris, who lives on an
Island off the coast of Beaufort. 8. C. is an
exception to the great majority of her sex
to preferring to live the life ef a hermit.
effects. In Its simplest form It Is a mod
erately loose reefer with shallow shoulder
capes. It has a standing collar uiul neat
cliffs on tho coat sleeve. Both collar and
cuffs are usually trimmed with many rows
of braid. If the braid Is gold or sliver
the effect Is pretty. The buttons are nearly
always gilt. Indeed, the fancy for gilt
buttons Is growing, so that they arc being
used on many coats that can by nu means
lay claim to the title military.
A pleasing little coat with triple shoulder
capes partakes of the nature of a yachting
Jacket. It Is in the true shade of yachting
blue and has a double row of anchor but
tons down tho front. It Is collarless and
the r.eck is rounded out into a V. Around
the neck and down the front runs a two
Inch band of the blue cloth, closely braided
In alternate gilt and turkey nil. Tho same,
alternate rows of braiding finish the seams
and shoulder capes. The sleeves Hare at the
hand to show a red silk lining, and a cuff
effect Is given by many alternate row of
he braiding.
But many of the military capes ore not so
pretentious. On many of the capes they
furnish the dominant note. One of these
more extreme models Is of fawn broad
cloth. Tho cape falls from the shoulders
and its sharply pointed back hangs to tho
bottom hem of the coat. It is lined with
black surah. The lining is displayed where
a gilt button turns it baik over the shoul
der. The coat has a semi-fitted back and
loose fronts, decorated with gilt buttons.
It has a high standing collar of the broad
cloth, completely covered by a turnover col
lar of velvet, braided In gold. The sleeves
are bell-shaped and trimmed with three
deep folds of the broadcloth. The uuder
slccvo is a plain coat sleeve except that it
puffs slightly above tho round cuff. The
cuff Is also of the velvet, braided in gold.
For shopping purposes tho semi-fitted
coats of covert cloth are fashionable. They
are the next step to the cornet coat and are
less trying to many figures.
design. A large clothes tree should be
transformed Into a trellis and covered with
the cherry blossoms nnd their leaves.
Suspended from the celling In this corner
should be an immense bonbon bag of pink
crepe paper shaped like a balloon. The
foundation bag may be of atout manila
paper, the outside decorated with cherry
petals pasted closely together. This bag
should be filled with snapping bonbons.
At a signal from the hostess each guest
Is blindfolded and given a small wand,
wound with cherry blossoms. He or the
Is led In the direction of the hag, and is
told to whirl around rapidly, then to strike
the bag. As can be Imagined, there are
many misdirected blows, but In due time
the bag Is broken, arid the candy distributed,
whilo their mottoes are read amid much
merriment.
The centerpiece on the table may be of
branches of cherry blossoms arranged to
represent a trre under which stands "Miss
Cherry blossom," a medium siaed Japatieve
doll attired in a dainty kimona.
Small bis(ue Japanese dolls, which may
be purchased at any 10-cent store, should
have the legs broken off and their bodies
fastened on bonbon boxes. These should
be dressed In crepe paper kimonas, and
Btood by each plate for souvenirs.
For the leather wedding tho Invitations
should be etched or burned on oblong cards
of leather. A burnt design or the
monograms of the host and hostess at the
top would be most appropriate. The
hostess who does pyrogrsphy herself has
many resources at hand to make a success
of her leather wedding. As to the refresh
ments, they may be served In all the
leather tones from chamois to chocolate
brown.
A unique entertainment for the wooden
wedding is to make it a Dutch affair. The
hostess should receive in a Dutch costume
made of crepe paper In a Delft design
wind-mills and all. A Dutch cap rhould be
Born on the island, which her father owned,
she has spent all her life there. Though 6t
years of age, she has both the stature nit
strength of a man. She is a capital sailor
and her boat was built entirely by herself.
Her nearest neighbors, who live some ten
miles away, declare that she Is a match for
any of the men in the vk-inlly at sailing,
rlHhiiig. oystering. shooting or tending cat
tle. When stormy weather stops outdoor
work she knits socks for the fishermen
round about her Inland home.
Mrs. Iaura Tilden Bay, who was not long
ago admitted to practice law before the
Supreme court of Colorado, Is a daughter
of Judge Tilden of Sacramento, Cat. She
began her course of legal training with her
father while yet in her teens. After suc
cessfully passing her examinations she
went into practice with her father In ltOt
Miss Tilden organised the Woman's Suf
frage club at Sacramento and was its presi
dent for several years. Though living very
quietly, she takes an active interest In
everything. She has time to be a member
of the Business Woman's club and also to
do some writing. In 1U98 Ojvemor Mark
bam made Miss Tilden a notary public
After her marriage her practice was for a
time suspended. Deciding that Colorado
was mors beneAcial for her health, she re
moved to Denver a few years ago.
in Vogue
A pretty surtout is of the covert cloth.
It is in the threc-nii. ii ter length which h.ta
proved ho serviceable for traveling. The
buck is tight titling and the fronts thrce
quutter fitting. The scams are strapp. I in
corset design. The nsrrow turnover collar
Is of golden brown velvet, and the fr uits
fasten under a fly. The plain coat sleeves
hive the culTs fastened by pearl buttons.
For outing civit models the Ameri-m
cuatmaker is often constrained to follow
tho Knglish tsilors. This is not strange,
considering that Knglund is the one nation
whose women are avowedly devote I to
sport.
One of the Knglish importations is a
long oat of brown broadcloth, which would
be admirable fur automohlling or steamer
wear. It is devldodly long, extending to
within four tncl es if the dress hem. It has
a semi-lilted back and loose fronts. Yet
the goods la so heavy it falls In straight
folds and takes away any effect of fullness.
The coat Is double breasted and the front
is ornamented and fastened by double rows
of big gilt buttons, which are over r.n
Inch In diameter.
The oat has no standing collar, but a
deep capo collar. This is in reality formed
of triple collars of tan anil white broad
cloth, lilting smoothly one over the other
to give the effect of only one collar. Tho
sleeves flare ami are trimmed around the
4bottom by triple handings of the tan i. ml
white broadcloth, giving nn effect similar
to that obtained in the collar.
Another traveling "auto" coat Is of Scotch
tweed, and Is made something after a Nor
folk design. It Is also long. It has a yoke
back and front, and deep pleats extend to
tho bottom hem. A belt passes through
these, thus gathering in the fullness at tho
waist. Curved pearl buttons are used for
fastening and decoration. The silk lined
hood is especially attractive for steamer
wear.
IIAKKIKT HAWI.KT.
made of the same material. An apron of
plain white crope paper will tone down the
blue. She should also wear wooden shoes.
On entering, the women guests should bo
given crepe paper Dutch caps and the men
Dutch nccklits.
If natural woodbine Is not to bo had,
artificial vinea ran be used, and these ci un
billed with shaving will be effective for
decoration. lambrequins and portieres
thould be made of shavings, and all tho rus
tic chairs and seats that ran be produced
should be brought Into requisition.
At one end of the room a dais may bo
covered with shavings, and two high
backed Dutch chairs for the host and hos
tess on the dais may have a canopy ot
shavings, woodbine and crepe paper chrys
anthemums. Wooden mugs should bo used for serving
the punch and other liquid rwf rcshruants,
while the punch itself should be s rvinl
from a wooden pall, chopping bowl or
"moss-covered bucket."
Wooden knives and forks or chops tcks
may be ut-ed; and ices should lie served, in
small wooden pulls lined with paraillne
paper to prevent any sssibln flavor of
wood. Wooden tubs, shots and pigging
may be utilised for jellies, rclbhes, ullve.t,
salted ulmonds, etc. Shu who is so for
tunate as to bo ablo to procure birch bark
can make pretty thing of this for fun
venlrs. A tl in of btitiuty is a joy forever.
. T. FELIX GOURALD'S ORIENTAL
CREAM. OR AAulCAL BEAUTIflEI
Raatavas Tan, Ftsiplaa,
fracktaa. Moth fatcbaa.
aV aaas aaa Bkta uia
fill aaaa, ana at mrf
y F Mamlah m baautr,
V aua 4aaa datactloa.
it Baa atos4 tha tail
ot Sfl-a ynrs,
ana la a harmlaaa
a iaata It to La
aara II la prop'!
Aceapt 04
couularfall of alml-
lar naoia. Ir. X
)A. Sayra aai4 to a
ladjr of tha haiit-
'laa patient):
as tan laalaa
ill uaa tham. 1
rate amend "OOI.'UAI'D'S CKEAU" aa tha trait
Sarmrul of all tha ahla preparations." Kor aala by
a truulata au4 (a at? (oovla oral era la tha l)tilu4
awtaa an4 Karupa.
FKHD. T. HOPKINS. Prap'r.
17 mat Jooaa St.. N. T.
Usarts Psrt.Soft.UbJu Skta
aed a Bcaatlfal fsssolnlan.
eerca Knioma sad Ttjthaj . Ab
aoluiaiy aua Par
felackk
klaa. 1-iBDtaa. Kadoaaa. Bnw
it apals see Tae. UeaS vltla
1 Darauvkoraia Hoap a fat
Sot by
ataqratle Caa, M
4efssif.
On Bottte TO EH to A&tmtBm
w m- a a a i w
t r -
if ' ssqbsttsjsrsa sMct.
at fc.tila. aiinanH
rA. fcy bbjhU.
yfm i sM s
as Tprtiiaeiafi mm
