What is Going On in Woman's World of Fashion
ill! IVIHV r JV- in. PIMUjr III
I autumn street suits mukeB tt plain
I ttiat t Ko a'lrf ...1 I.,-.
Jacket are not to bo, all predic
tions to the contrary notwith
standing. Suits in such mode In arc Keen on
ell Fide, with the pleated skirts a shale
more voluminous and the leather belts Of
the i ( at reveral degrees wider.
Mu.'iy new Bluffs ore U8?d for tha.e prac
tical i oatiiDien, which in some raws wLI be
liccompanled by headgear In the same ma
ti rial. English textures In rich dark color
ings lire Bern and many of thorn show the
old Klbellno lnfluence.4. The contrasts In
color are rich and bcc.itnlng, and a certain
Iron uray, with flecks of plum, Itt a combina
tion of exoi-cdlng distinction. .
Willi all of these roft wool stuffs, which
arc of an extreme lightlies, bra Us and
gimps in black or contrasting shades will
be employed. With the broken plaids, of
which there are a number in the market,
the trimming used may match a bri.llant
thread of color In the ma.tcr.al. The plaid
of ono gown In In red, brown and green,
with plain broadcloth bunds In the last
shade. Another frock In brown, black and
scarlet haa scarlet cloth used In the aume
way. Black continue to be the accentua
ting note in both textures and trimmings
ml Iron gray effects, relieved by a touch
of color, are coiwidVrod extremely stylish.
Somo plain cloth suits are seen with cdl
box-pleated aklrU, the routa fitting tight
Into the figure. Tight coat alcoves and
niarmlHh re vers are thought appropriate
detail with such styles. The louse coats
for there are numbers of perfectly loose
BtyliH-oaay bs double or Mingle breasted
and display effects In many cuts. Their
sleeves r puffed or flowing, vary long
shouldered yokes going with small bell
cuts.
Of course, with a suit for first autumn
wear smooth stuff seem more appropriate
than woolly textures, which, however light
In weight they may b. lo k ho:. The silky
braid and plain cloth bmda. now employed
wlih rough wool mater a s add much t th sir
beromlngnra by giving them a more sea
sonalite appearance. Plain taffeta bands
will da even more, us well as wash vests
anil white undr raleeveg, which arc mora
worn than rver.
A delightful street suit of black Bngl'flh
suiting was mad (harming win touches of
searVt taffeta. In a rhort pleated klrt and
lOton coat model the taYMa was employed
for fiidngi that thawed only the mivemsnL
A roft kid belt, six inches d:p and in the
aame sparkling red, gleamed under the little
Kton, which hung louas from the body and
was worn over a white wash skirt.
The headgear for this bewitching gerup
seemej even more dirlng. It was ni more
and no leas than a turban of ayarlet berries
with vivid green leaves. In a very flu
shape, and worn tilted over the no3 In
something of the oil style way.
If the autumn street suit must dn service
for dressier occasions a black cloth skirt
and covert coat ay 1:1 rrovlde co-nblnatlort .
thru admits of quite elegant effects. The
newest shade for covert cloth and cravan
ette la a dim sage green, which shows up
well ovet tho white ahirt waists so much
worn.
Tho best coats In such textures exhibit
Kiigllsh influence in the long ehouldorej
cut, which la not Infrequently produced by
the yoko Itself. This quite ofton Includes
the entire aleeve, or a deep point may run
down almost to the elbow; for since under
sleevrs and garlands, and mottt of the
pretty ginacracks which pertain to their
period, are with us ahoulderj can only be
lot's".
Wreaths and garlands are seen on the
majority of the evening textures and even
street headgear will run to velvet stlmuU
tlons of auch effects. The back of a brim
hat h landing straight up In front will
turn, and lot against the flat crown will
be a quilted or braided velvet wreath with
tho i endant ends accorded the Greek hero.
Exquisite blue sash ribbons for evening
gowns In plain gauaes have garland i of
pink rones looped acrors; a chlft n, which
will 1 e trimmed with plain ribbon or velvet,
will be painted with garlands all over, or
the front of a skirt may show a n irrow
panel of Greek wreaths, ono net stiffly
above the other In a atraight row.
Vans to match this evening finery are
tiny and the toes of satin slippers are
treated to laoe Insets or embroideries of
rare lieauty.
Aa to the new lines of fashion in general,
they fall mora than ever downward.
Shoulders and hips are made to look nar
row and sleeves ami skirt bottoms wide.
Block continue to tit tho throat with
definite tlitutnuu, and the cuff l ands, which
finish the huge puffed sleeves, are equally
snug In fit.
As to these voluminous puffed sleeves, it
Is evident from the models seen in them
that they are still to be much worn. When
untitled they are delightful in the diaphan
ous textures, and to creite tlda look of
airiness the sleeves aro sometimes in a
different textile from the rest of tha
costume.
Thla oddity was expressed In a green
satin tea gown which had sleeves of green,
spangled net. not a scrap of which showed,
hiewhere In the costume. Another gown
a French model for dinner and evening re
ception wear showed all Ifcs bodloe of
- - - --- ssr d t n 1 1 1 a , v .1. s-v mi r .w vs v" i,H i 'n
fuCnaM
net and the skirt or silk. White groa grain
and white net spangled with Jet were the
materials of thla conatume, whose skirt
was cut en princess and faced with under
ruffles of black chiffon. The net bodice wan
in surplice form, the Jet embroidered girdle
of the skirt coverti It some dis'.ance.
There is no doubt but that a reaction has
set In against the very narrow belli, for
most of the girdllngs of the new season are
extremely wide. Toilets In many thin mt
tcrltUa ure held In at the waist by shirred
belts of velvet and silk almost short-corset
deep.
A beautiful house gown in pale blue silk
muslin. Inserted with cream embroideries,
U girdled In this way with blue velvet.
Upon a frock of rose-colored tulle a gird'e
effect definitely suggestive of the corset
was used, and this was far more charming
than It sounds. The ahort athletic girdle
of tape stripe was simulated In plain pink
ribbon. The ladder of tiny bows which
went down the back was repeated on the
apron of the skirt.
Pale colors and thin materials will be
more than ever approved for house wear
this winter, so the woman to whom pretty
house fineries are becoming will be In her
glory. At all of the shops this growing
tendency for summery house effects Is
well understood, and, however late the
season, the summer house gown of silky
muslin, lace and ribbon rarely drops In
price. Then the models of such garments
If In wrapper or tea gown shape change
little with the seasons, and a Blight altera
tion of the sleeves Is often all that is
necessary for effects genuinely passe.
This, with ready-made models. Is made
possibly by the fact that with most toil
ettes of flrst-class orders an extra piece
of the material la generally supplied; but
If It Is not, as far as wool and silk stuffs
are concerned, the license of the hour al
lows many new contrasts.
The rule of keeping good ready-made
house garments at the first price Is de
parted from when It cornea to wash tex
tures, distinctly understood. Figured dim
ities and batistes come under this reduced
head; but If the gown Is In a plain color
and displays a novel lace. It often goes
over to the legitimate fall stock, whose
new furnishings are ribbon-trimmed wools
of the most delicate weave.
Ribbons are employed on all house toil
ettes and , upon underwear In enormous
quantities. Tho dainty pompadour sort In
tints to mates, the skirt appear on soma
PRACTICAL. STREET SUITS FOR AUTUMN.
French petticoats In thin brocaded and
covered silks. Such skirts are exceedingly
beautiful, and as they will bo sported with
black or darkly hued gowns, their glorify
ing effect may be relied on. Rich contrasts
for these skirts and gowns are violet with
plum, yellow with gray, green with brown
and black and white with blue. A black
gown will admit of a petticoat In any
color, but the more de'.lcate its hue the
better, unless the skirt is for the roughest
kind of wear.
The trend of the moment is all toward
decoration and a return to the feminine
softness which distinguished our grand
mothers. So even If fair woman bows to
the need of one practical dress, her frivo
lous petticoats will relieve its eombreness.
Her shoes may be stout for the "pave
ment" dress demands a return to sensible
shoes but her stockings will be of em
broidered silk; her chemise handwork and
her rain cloak lined with a silk that would
make one bless threatening skies.
As to the clothes designed chiefly for
ornament, they may be as foolishly sweet
as they p'eose. And what more adorably
foolish and sweet than pompadour ribbons,
petticoats tinted like morning glories and
undersleeves. MARY DEAN.
Frills of Fashion
The belt of the moment is white leather,
a quite new example being of soft wrinkled
suede arranged on a shaped foundation.
Fringe, fringed ornaments, encrustations
of guipure and passamenterie are seen on
some of the new semi-titting mantles of
cloth.
Hlark enamel swallows with diamond
tipped wings and large drugon flies vdned
and outlined with diamonds are among hair
and corsage ornaments.
The much abused monogram haa even
been Introduced In evening nhiH-s, being
placed. In more or less elaborate design,
on the left side of the shoe.
Flat lace stoles of Irish point or point
d'Alencon form charming dress accessories.
They have spoon shaped ends and are fin
ished with soft frlllings of chiffon.
For auto enthusiasts on auto watch has
been introduced of the eight day size and
having a crocodile case so cleverly planned
that the vibration Is not excessive.
A new form of trimming has a great deal
of platinum combined with the embroidery.
This has the advantage ovtr ordinary goid
and silver In that It does not tarnish.
The fur-felt hats In Bailor shapea are
worn by the small boy, some of them with
plain fell crown, and fur felts are bent
Into close three-cornered shapes for them.
8ubtl and illusive tones continue to be
modish In the world of dress. Tha blues
are nearly greens, the pinks combine with
yellow, the reds are almost pink and tho
white verges on gray.
A smart black hat of higb-rlmmed toque
effect is of black silk embroidery and Jet,
and around the top of both crown and rim
is a twist of pale blue chiffon. Pale blue
and black are always good.
Fruits In cold weather dress are ready for
the adornment of winter hats. They are
made of velvet and Include green almonds,
mulberries, blackberries, grapes, apples and
peaches. Nuts are likewise simulated in
velvet.
For and About Women
Mia La Verne W. Noye of Chl.ago la one
of the most accomplished amateur photog
raphers in the country. She has taken in
the last nine years nearly WO.OtO pictures.
Miss Kathleen Nonah Fields Is the young
est musicul director In the world. Though
but 11 she presides over a choir of boys in
the Roman Catholic church at Ongar, in
ICssex, Kngland.
Mrs. Maud Richardson, wife of a piofe sor
in the University of California, chased a
burglar into a closet In her home lu Berke
ley, slammed and locked the door and stood
guard until the arrival of the police.
Mrs. W. W. King of I.os Angeles. Cal., is
a phenomenal til teen-ball pooi player. She
has defeated all comers save her husband,
who is the recognized champion of the Pa
cific coast, and lias at times nearly wrested
the supremacy from him.
MIkb May Goelet has agreed to settle
l4.WJ0.iAK) upon her future husband, the duke
of Koxburghe. Miss Goelel'a fortune Is
many times that amount, and she will not
miss It, even though the duke should rend
It after the Anna liould millions.
For the first time in fifteen years the
Marchioness lie Mores is at her old heme
in New York. She is the daughter of A. L.
Van Hoffman, a Wall street broker, and
mairled the adventurous French Marquis
Do Mores in 1KX3. For several years past
she has devoted all her energies to the pur
suit of the Hedoufns who muidered her hus
band in Tunis, and, having secured the r
punishment, has returned to her native l:tnd
to lead a quiet life.
You sometimes see a woman whose old
age Is as exquisite (is was the ixrfeot bloom
of her youth. You wonder how this has
come about. You wonder how it Is her life
has been u long and happy one. Here arj
some of the reaeons: She knew how to for
get disagreeable things. She mastered tt a
art of saying pleasant Ihingn. She irnde
whatever work enme to her congenial. S .e
wtaind her illusions and did not be'iovj all
the world wicked and unkind.
Alfred llaimsworth, the joungtst and
most successful newspaper pub'iriier In Fu
rope, announces his intention to pulling
poon in London a daily newspaper In ended
exclusively for women. Harmsworih Int Tds
to prove whether the time is ytt r'p for a
newspaper for women only. It will he en
titled the Hal'y Mirror. It l not Jn'erded
to appeel to the new womsn nlon-. but wil
contain all the news cf the day. ul h
feminine features heretofore contninel cnly
In women's weekly papers, ricturta will be
a feature of the paper.