Extreme simplicity of Winter Costumes
EW YORK, Auk. 21. A fashion
able woman was hoard complain
ing the other day that she dirt not
JA& "v ,n tne troP,c"- "Then " she
exclaimed, we would only have
two seasons the wet and the dry. In the
former we would wear mackintoshes, and
In the latter next to nothing. And the
anxieties of the seasons between would
bo don away with."
The seasons spring and fall are always
periods of uncertainty, tentative periods
In which society decides between the va
riety of new styles offered for its in
spection by anxious modistes and milliners.
Fall Is, perhaps, the more trying of the
two, for the change from summer flufllness
to the more rigid rulings of winter fash
ions Is always a wrench. Therefore, the
first fall hats are always extremely Blmple
In shape and trimming.
This fall Is no exception to the rule.
There la considerable harking back to the
Bummer styles, shorn, however, of much
Of their flamboyancy. The new tailored
suits are so decidedly plain that tailored
hnts are a necessity.
Until the advent of the fall ralna veils
of every description will add lightness to
the fall hats. Hair nets will be worn with
them. They are useful for keeping stray
locks In their proper places. Indeed, they
will be found to be invaluable for milady
If she wears her hair low on her neck.
They come In every conceivable shade to
suit every coiffure, and so melt into the
hair aa to be barely perceptible, except
Under the closest scrutiny.
The summer fad for the weai-J;-g of many
Veils has created Home unusual shades and
olor combinations. They either match a
costume or give a contrasting touch of
vivid color. Wash veils are a recent im
portation. "Wash veils of crepe and
chiffon" sounds alluring. The veils so ad
vertised are certainly pretty, whatever
their condition after washing may be.
Chenille plays an Important part in fall
millinery, as well as in veilings. The latest
things in the line of veils are those dotted
with chenille tufts. The chenille Is soft
and fluffy, giving a softer effect to the face
than the velvet dots which were the rule
In fashionable veils last spring. The tufts
re in every shade on white, ?Xaok or gray
Bet of a very open mesh variety.
A fall hat which Is more dressy than
the average la a combination of black
chenille braid, pale-blue taffeta, and a lus
trous black coq feather. The hat seta back
a trifle from the face and has a low,
broad crown and a moderately wide brim
Which curves and flarea gracefully. The
crown la of the chenille braid, and the
brim is covered with soft folds and flutlngs
of the blue taffeta, edged with an inter
lacing of chenille braid. The coq plume
tarts on the left side of the brim, under
the folds of taffota, and falla over the
bair In the back. The hat Is raised slightly
on the left side by a bandeau covered with
black velvet. A amaller coq feather sets
on thia in front and resta against the fluffy
pompadour of hair.
Coq feathers and wngs are the favorite
fall millinery trimmings. These feathers
are used with remarkable differentiation.
There seems to bn no form of feather
ornamentation which they are Incapable
of producing. SUfly wired, they make
military aigrettes. Fluffy feather pompons
are found-to be of coq, while longer coq
feathers moke Veasts, feather plaatrona
and graceful curling plumes.
A pretty fall hat, which sets back from
the face, Is of white felt. The brim is bent
Into Napoleonic curves are bound with
Inch-wide black velvet ribbon. Binding of
a contrasting shade of silk or velvet is to
be aeen on many of the fall hat brims.
The soft conical crown la encircled by folds
of black velvet, and a soft choux or pom
pon of curling coq feathers trims the left
aide. A number of short, curling coq feath
ers covers tho bandeau which lifts the
brim from the hair.
Another fall hat Is of blue felt. The stiff,
rolling brim is bound with inch-wide folds
of dull green velvet. Folds of the sums
velvet encircle the crown, while a cockade
of mingled green and blue coq feather Is
set under the brim on the left side.
Black and white chenille. Intermingled
in braid effect, makes a smart roll brim
sailor. The chenille gives auch richness
that the hat la absolutely untrlmmed, ex
cept for two paste buckles. A huge curved
one accentuates the low crown In the
front, and a smaller one decorates the
bandeau under the brim on the left side.
Buckles of every sort are features of the
fail millinery, although those of more
striking siie appear most frequently. They
are of paste, of Jet, either dull or sparkling,
or in oxidized or gun metal effects.
One of the new picture shapes in beaver
ia in a tan, with the brim bound In silk
of the same shade. A shallow bandeau cov
ered with silk fits the head and lifts the
shape sufficiently to keep it from looking
too heavy. The wide brim Is bent down
over the hair in the back. Its only trim
mine; Is an Alsatian bow of three-Inch wide
velvet In a golden brown shade, set off with
a huge paate buckle. The contrast of the
golden gleam of the buckle and the warm
brown of the velvet against tho sort tan
beaver la a pretty one.
Alsatian bows of silk or velvet make a
Very acceptable trimming for the Jfrwoch
Bailors In various shades of felt. A French
sailor of fluffy white beaver has for Its
only trimming a huge Alsatian bow of
royal blue velvet, set off with a gun-metal
buckle. A tan felt Is trimmed with an
Alsatian bow of croam silk. Indeed, the
possiN( combinations of colors and ma
terials are Innumerable.
A favorite way of trimming the French
sailors Is to lay a long stiff feather or quill
flatly across the low crown. It gives a
distinctive touch to tho hat
A stylish French sailor with a rolling
brim Is of tan felt. The flat crown Is en
circled by folds of brown velvet. Folds
If You Would Be a Belle
ON'T think you are too old to do
this, too old to do that. You are
always ns young as you feel.
People grow old by thinking
theinselvea old.
D
Don't think you are too old to be young.
I,lve a young life, which has a tendency
to keep up youthful looks. Woman, while
not being kittenish or a "bud," need never
be obi In her ways.
Don't think that you are forbidden to
think of your looks, or to attend to your
appearance, because you happen to be 30.
Balzac has said that a woman of 30 Is at
her most fascinating and dangerous age
that Is, dangerous to the hearts of men.
Don't make a mistake about it to be
young, to be In the first faint flush of
youth. Is no longer the fashion. The fash
ionable age for a successful society woman
Is between 30 and 40.
Don't, however, go on the housetop and
proclaim to the world that you are 40 and
glad of it.
Don't attempt repair and preservation
Woman Directs a Detective Bureau
OMKN detecttves there have been
for a good many years, successful
ones, too, despite the old llction of
women and their secrets being
soon parted, but tn Miss Cora M.
W
Slrayer Chicugo has the first to lake the
direction of an agency and employ others.
She tells the story of her work forcibly
and earnestly, and It carries conviction of
her enthusiasm.
"I drifted into the work without deliber
ate choice," she said to a Chicago Tribune
interviewer. "An attorney asked mo to do
a little investigation on a case for him.
I had studied and practiced law for sev
eral years, but had been forced to give it
up on account of 111 health. The lawyer
thought I had some ability In the investi
gating line, and I found quickly what a
demand there was for this kind of work.
"A woman with her quicker synipathlea
and intuition has a great advantage In
. winning confidence. Although I am usually
fortunate in this respect, still I often have
people come to me and tell me a story
which I can percelvo immediately Is hut
half truth. I ask them to wait until they
have thought the matter over and then
come, and tell me everything. Sometimes
an hour will elapse, again several days or
weeks.
"Mine Is a difficult business, wearing to
Houselold Suggestions
The most beautiful things In lamp shades
are of white taffeta made over book cloth
and trimmed with lace and gold spangles.
As a finish for the very necessary aofa
cushion fancy gulmp or braid In coloring to
match the top, blended wlih gilt or silver,
ia taking the place of the plain colored
heavy cord formerly in vogue.
Blue Japanese linen, which reiomblea soft
alik, is being utilised for some exquUite
tea table cloths, centerpieces, buffet and
bureau Bear I a. The decoration .o..aials of
embroidery with white mercerlxed cotton In
Chinese and Japanese designs.
In candle shades there are the moat de
ll g h t f u I and dainty things imaginable one
In white book cloth, for instance, with a
delft design in the delft bluea painted upon
It. These shades are finished with a tiny
rurhlng of white chiffon at top and bottom.
Men nowadaya come aa nearly aa possible
to wearing the chatelaine which Ue.ightj
the feminine heart by tta numberless trink
ets. To his key chain the man hangs any
thing he might loose a knife, very likily,
and certainly a matchbox of silver.
Knives and handles of silver and gold
have a ring at the end for the key
chain.
Pretty cushions are square and tufted,
covered with pretty plain silk in blue or
pink or black or yellow, or other college
colors, perhaps. Tnete are ant solidly with
white pina or may be tilled with pins to
match. On the corners are gay little
rosettes of ribbons. Tho cushions are alx
or eight inchea square and a couple of
inches thick.
Nothing is more attractive for cither
match or cigarette cases for men than
lh03c of gun metal with tho monogram aet
on In silver. In some of these it is put
on In comparatively large letters in the
center of the body of the case, but prettier
than this is a cigarette case which has on
one side of the cover a tmall monogram
in rllver. It stands out distinctly on the
gun metal, but is free from that aggres
siveness monograms In metal sometimes
have.
Home of the moat beautiful new lamp
shades are made of an exquisite aatln
straw in colors. These are in cd1 rhtpes,
and at first glance they suggest an old
time poke bonnet. Tbcy are made In many
panels, broad at the lower edge, narrowing
til t the ncck. ami then broadening out to
form a flare ton. The edcea of the ahadea
are finlxhed with a laceTlke edge uf the
straw, and around the ne.uk is tied a big
broad ribbon fastened in an elaborate bow
at one
of soft Loulslne allk in a cream, dotted
with brown, start under the brim on the
right side and are drawn up over the
crown. On this Is laid a long brown quill,
starting on the left side of the crown un
der a rosette of the silk. The end of the
quill extends a good two Inches beyond the
brim on tho right side.
The new sombrero hats are being dis
played in all the shop windows, and will
undoubtedly make one of the season's suc
cesses. Although rather extreme, they are
becoming to a "youthful face. The brim la
wide, raised from the head by a shallow
bandeau, and bent down a trifle in the
of beauty with palnta, powders and veils.
Take plenty of exercise, stand erect, sit
erect. When you apeak, let your voice
possess volume and energy. When you
think, think freshly.
Don't say you huven't time for the after
noon'a "forty wlnka." Take it, and your
renewed strength will show In a freshened
complexion. A half hour's nap after lunch
eon will do morn to eradicate wrinkles
than all the bcautiflers In the world.
Don't think that a life of ease and luxury
Is essential to preserving youthful, delicate
looks. A certain amount of work and ex
ercise Is necessary to keep the muscles
firm and elastic and tho flesh hard.
Don't let go of love or love of romance.
They are amulets against wrinkles. Not
all of the world's homago Is poured at the
feet of girlhood.
Don't fancy that the dew of youth, with
Its complexion of roses. Is alone able to
Inspire passion. A woman's best and rich
est years are from 36 to 40. Tho old saw
tho nerves and depressing. At times 1 have
gone to pieces, completely and had to get
away from the town, but In a few days let
ters and telegrams arrive find the old
eagerness to be up and at it returns. Sud
denly I feel entirely rocovcred and come
back to begin again. The work is terribly
confining. 1 can scarcely get out for suf
ficient exercise. I am like the switchboard
of a telephone, constantly In touch with all
my subordinates.
"My observation led me to believe that
most people get Into difficulty from a fail
ure to distinguish between right and wrong.
In most cases it is a lack of training in
youth. Many times I am aDle to make the
person see this, and that la ono reason
why I can recommend this profession to
other women who havo any adaptation for
It."
Despite the general depression of having
to deal bo constantly with wrongdoing and
foolishness, the comedy Bide will turn up
now and then. For Instance, an elderly
couple living in the country received In
formation concerning a young man engaged
to their daughter stating that he wna a
married man with three chlloren. Tho poor
parents were almost frantic. It took the
young man's solemn oath and Miss Stray
er's subsequent investigations to convince
them that their future son-in-law was as
For and About Women
Hetty Green a few daya ago dropped a
remark which hinta at a romance of daya
5 one by. Home one Baked her if she knew
Ir. Choate, the American ambassador at
Indon. "Know Joe ChoateT" ahe ex
claimed. "I should aay so. Why, he was
one of my beaua when I waa a girl."
Miss Alice Dun lap has managed the West
ern Union Telegraph business In Peru, Ind.,
for thirty years. In appreciation of her
long and efficient service the company some
time ago assisted Miss Dunlap in the way
of transportation on a trip around the
world.
Miss Wllhelmina Jackson, who at 25 years
of age la professor at the Scottish college
of iJarlington, haa been offered tbo chair
of Kngllsli at the University of (Jrenoble,
which haa bOO foreign pupils. Hhe will be
the first woman to teach In a French uni
versity. After a prolonged effort, Mlas Minnie
Klotse Kehoe, a practical stenographer of
Penaacola, secured the enactment by the
legislature of Florida at Its session Just
closed of a law providing for tho appoint
ment of olllclal stenographers In the cir
cuit courts of the state. She is the rirnt
appointee under the new law. being ap
pointed for the first judicial circuit of the
blate.
The most gifted of all women composers
waa Clara Schumann, yet shortly before her
marriage she frankly wrote In her diary: "I
ufed to think I had talent for creating, but
1 have changed my mind. Women should
not wish to compose; not one has ever suc
ceeded. To suppose that I waa destined to
be an exception would be an arrogant as
sumption, which I made formerly, but only
becaube my father prompted me."
A woman of Washington, D. C, who ap
plied for a license as engineer was ex
amined in accordance with the law, and,
having been found qualified to act as man
ager of a stationary engine, a liocnao haa
been Issued to her. This is the first license
of the kind ever Issued to a woman in the
capital city. Her husband la a baker and
doea a large business, requiring the use of
a steam engine in the running of his estab
lishment. Two years ago his wife was
made his aaslatant in the boiler and engine
room, and by this dally contact with the
machinery, aided by Instruction from the
husband, the wife became quite expert In
the management of the engine. Having a
ltcenae, the woman can now be placed In
charge of the engine without violation of
Jaw. Tha examination was conducted by
the regulat Hoard of Kxamlnera. and the
woman is sal4 te Wve peaaed very credlt-Aaljr.
front and more In the back.
A pretty sombrero hut Is of brown fett,
The edge of the brim is strapped on hotli
sides by four-Inch long pointed tabs of tan
colored silk. The tabs are stitched In the
same shade. An interfacing of pleated
Ilk mull In the ton shado starts three
Inches from the edge of tho brim and fur
nishes a soft background for the face. A
deep folded land of tan-colored liberty
sating ribbon is drawn around the conical
crown and caught br a silver buckle. A
pair of fluffy while wings, set against tho
ribtvon on the left side, furnish the only
other trimming. HAItniBT IIAWL.tUi
at Forty
about "sweet sixteen" Is exploded.
Don't bo glum If you wunt to be young.
Danoe and sing, and, above all, laugh.
Hide, drive, row, swim and walk a mile
or make It three dally. Keep your heart
young, and thus defy Father Time.
Don't belong to tho "old folks" and nod
through the evening hours because your
boy ia at college.
Don't be afraid that some one will say,
"Why, she goes about like a young frlrl!"
If you feel light and e.isy In motion, why
be stnld, moping, artltlclal, because you
are supposed to be so, being no longer
young?
Don't bo envious or disheartened or Im
patient. Those evil habits make ugly lines
In the face. Do gentle, kind, generous
things wlthi ut thought of return.
Don't think there Is Intense rcepw-tO-billty
in being rather ugly because you
are old. No old person has a right to be
ugly. Hhe has had all her life In which to
grow beautiful.
straight u young bachelor us the city af
forded. In comparing men nnd women operatives,
Miss Stray er said: "I have about an equal
number of men nnd women under me. The
women are better In some things, but, of
course, men are absolutely necessary In
others. Some of 1 m hnve been In my em
ploy for ycara, and to them I often confide
all the details of a ease. To others I
merely give their instructions for the day.
What I demand of my people la tho truth.
Failure I am willing to pardon and assist,
but If a man or woman will lie to me he
will lie under any conditions, and is liable
to betray my client. For tho faithful and
skillful there la alwaya good pay and con
fidence. "It'a wonderful what ever renewing Inter
est one can get nut of work if ahe only
puta enthusiasm Into It. I am constantly
drawn to mine by the opportunities I find
for helping people. Kvcn aeove pecuniary
reward I place some of tho grateful hearts
which I know thank me for what I have
been able to do for them.
"I certainly have a big opportunity to
study human nature, but If 1 were to write
some of the strange things that come under
my eyea they would not be believed."
A tJctn 6 beauty to a ju'fomtTk
DM. FELIX GOUtAUD'S OMENTAL
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