What is Going On in Woman's
World of
Fashion
j
SMART TOURIST CLOTHES FOR AUTOMOBILE AND STEAMER WEAR.
I which have aa yet presontod
(ewer faults than Is generally the
case. Everywhere one sees a
tendency to correct the exaggerations
which come from the popular acceptance
of on Idea, and skirts bid fair once more
to adapt themselvea to humnn possibilities.
The short, closely fitting, pleated and box
pleated skirts of the summer, which had
such a "bobbed -off" look with their long
tailed coats, are conspicuous by their ab
sence. There is a pleasing relationship between
the length of the new coata and their at
tendant skirts, and both show a comforta
ble Increase In width. The tails of the
fitted coata are In some cases extrava
gantly long, but a careful flaring of them
at the hips results In an easy fall, more
becoming than the late skimpy fit.
Skirts, too, are much wider, and a sensi
ble arrangement of the reaey-made sorts
Is to have the front and sides only of the
top put Into the belt. The back breadths
are left to be pleated or gathered in or
eveu pulled In with a drawstring and, aa
almost all ready-made skirts need to be
altered at this point, the new condition of
things Is a happy advance over the old one.
The coata, costumes and hats shown for
first autumn use run largely to outing
effects, for styles displayed as early as
these must In a measure fit the conditions
of late summer. Stunning long-coated
gowns of novelty brllll&ntlne, available for
sea voyages, are to be seen. One such In
brown and white displays a narrow band
of plain brown, put on with a novel bead
ing of brown silk cord. This outlined the
neck and front of the coat and edged the
bottom of the skirt, the trained sweep of
which seemed very graceful.
Of course, short skirts are both useful
and hygienic; but, Because of tin more ele
gant possibilities, the trained Jupe still
wins the blue ribbon In the race for lasting
favor. Nevertheless, short skirts for prac
tical street wear will still be seen In stuffs
which lend themselves to a dapper tailor
finish, the difference from former styles
being that they will be less like sausage
skins and more like human garments.
With these will go tailor coata of reasona
ble length, wtth the still fashionable puff
sleeve modified In atae. and the aecks
finished with mall turnover velvet collars.
For such costumes, colonial shoes of
black Russia leather with Hlucher fasten
ings, are approved, though the feet which
attempt such shoes must be tolerably small
to carry then off properly.
The long coats of rain-proof silks fash
toned for automobile use are more cap
tivating than all the other autumn things
put together. The, with muffling caps
fashioned to go wtth them, reveal such
coquettish possibilities that no on la sur
prised that the "auto" fever has become s
prevalent Tartan affects a freejwestUy
observed, the coat and cap sometimes dis
playing the same clan, which, however. Is
one that often originated alone in the
French brain. Everything is grist which
comes to the French fashion mill, and the
plaid of Stewart may show a Campbell
stripe. Not without profit, too, as Scotch
plaids are not always the most harmonious
things in the world. A plaid of the most
audacious French description was shown
In a long "auto" coat of red and blue rain
proof cloth. The yoke of this garment was
Its most distinguishing feafure. Dipping
down over the puffed sleeves till the deep
points almost reached their cuffs, it formed
a striking ornamentation for them. The ac
companying cap was of deep red rain
proof silk with a patent leather visor and
an enclosing curtain of the silk.
This shrouding species of headgear, with
goggles elaborately constructed. Is more
used for out of town automobillng than
more dressy get-up. But for a brief spin
through the park, or up the favorite city
drives, one sees the most coquettish flower
and tulle of straw hats enveloped In lace
veils of equal elegance. These, folding
tightly under the chin, hold the head In a -gauxy
bag, the ends of the veil crossing
at the back and tying in front in a smart
bow.
Numberless are the trifles and toilet con
veniences offered for the tatr automoblllst,
who may now have her watch and powder
box In one, or extract her purse from her
long boot top.
A correspondent writing from Paris de
clares that nine out of eveiy ten women
automoblllats carry their small change
"Monnale" In a tiny purse attached to the
front of their long boots. Bloomer under
wear lends propriety to the extraction of
the change, but so leveling Is this brisk
sport that even the cool and open lifting
of flounced petticoats for the fishing op of
a tensou piece Is not regarded as a grave
Indiscretion.
Chain charms In the shape of tiny gold
and silver automobiles abound, some of
these even displaying a chauffeur or chauf
feur In full and dashing "auto" attire.
Leather belts with pendant leather set
watches are other automobile novelties, as
well as lace veila with mica eye coverings
set In, and leather gloves with perforated
palms.
As long as the fever for the sport lasts,
commercial genius will cater to It, and
when It ends the hundred and one trifles
which honored It will end also. Meanwhile
ordinary people look on one moment in
admiration, and the next long for a gun
and the privilege of using It. It Is hard
Hnes to dodge Incessantly for life, and only
the pretttness of the feminine costume and
the grotesque ugliness of the masculine
atones for the outrnge.
But to turn to the frills and flounces of
femininity. Softer examples la thelt au
tumn finery display a strong leaning toward
the always delightful details. Tfcv
flounces which ornament the newest of the
silk and other light material skirts, being
of circular cut, are almost as flat as folds.
Different widths are put together until
often nearly the whole skirt is covered and
tho last, flounce Is no more than three
Inches wide. Buttons enclosed in a rouche
of ribbon, the whole shupinu a large
rosette, form another novelty likely to be
carried over to the winter for house and
carriage gowns In airy, dressy textures.
The ornaments thus made not only deck
the fronts of short jackets, but are vari
ously disposed over tho entire costume,
two perhaps appearing at the back of an
elbow sleeve, two upon a belt, etc
Any effect which borrows or savors
openly of a departed mode Feems to be
fashion's fad for the immediate future.
So the short, squarely-tied, lace cravats of
the Louis periods are with us, together
with flounces, frills and underalceves of
the " '60" and high heels of the powder
and patch decades. Hats, even, it is pre
dicted, will take on their share of ancient
elegance, and a few of the crowns already
conceived by designers are aa high as the
present ones are low.
Whether or not these w:.'l take with the
smart world remains to be seen, for nov
elty and effectiveness in the hand may be
very different when perched upon the head.
Look at the fate of the "Victorian bonnet,"
a delicious straw poke which a few Lon
don elegantes tried to make the thing
this summer. One even had the temerity
to cross the ocean a ravishing creation
In cream straw and white glace ribbon,
with even the old rosebud face trimming
but one brief appearance settled its fate,
as the fate of these in London was set
tled. Society Is not yet prepared for the more
picturesque of the old fashions and only
borrows from such as will not seem outre.
One rain-proof traveling coat In Scotch
plaid silk green and blue had acquired
quite an ancient fullness in the tall, sug
gestive of the time when waterfalls and
bustles were In fashion. The rounded
fronts accentuated the antiquity of" the
idea, as well as the puffed sleeves, which
were slashed at the back to simulate a
flowing effect.
September styles for children are not
appreciably novel and seem to depend more
on a chunge of material than tin cut. A
smart traveling coat fur a girl of 8 was
made in the box-pleated, belted model used
In the spring. Black and red plaid mohair
compoaed this effective dust cloak, to
which a red patent-leather belt gave a
stylish finish. A departure from conven
tional styles win seen in a ready-made
dress for a maid of I, which had a pic
turesque Greenaway flavor. Made of green
and white challke, with narrow green rib
bon bands, short sleeves and a cut out
neck, this dainty little frock was plainly a
revival Mother Hubbard days, Plaia
green challle formed a slashed berth
around the neck and for cool days a whits)
wash gamp was provided.
MART DEAN.
Frills of Fashion
Wool laces were never so much in vogus
as this year
Medallions will be much worn during tha
coining seuson.
Scarlet, brown, blue and green with lace.
Is much in evidence for trimming just now.
Point d'Art, a course kind of thread lace,
is much In evidence for trimming just now.
The newest boa has a broad round pat
terned collar behind and two long Btols
fronts.
Gold and silver tinsel wtth spangles to
correspond ure conspicuous in the new trim
mings. Wide bands of luce edged with quaint
fuellings are to be employed as garniture
for eveuiug gowns.
In two-toned veilings exceedingly artistic
and effective patterns have been introduced
for the coming seasons.
Round hats of pongee, with stitched
brims, are Bet off with scarfs of heavy
silk in Roman colorings.
The fashionable woman of the early '70s
would rind familiar the new parasols with
folding handles and trimming of fringe.
Some of the latest effects in embroideries
show the Tenuriffe design, either in its
original cartwheel form or an adaptation.
A smart outing hat is one of the three
cornered white felts, trimmed with u fold
of white silk and with a military pompon
in white on one side.
For millinery use ribbon will be largely
used during the coming full and winter,
with three to five shades of one color
blended In some novel design.
Jet Is conspicuous in fall jewelry, long
chains, necklaces, old-fashioned brooches,
heurt9, crosses and many other articles
being introduced in the latest productions.
The chief characteristics of the new dress
fabrics is the soft blending of shaded. Green
and blue are the principal colors, but in
nearly all combinations black has an im
portant part.
Deep purples are seen in the new hats
and with the popular mauves entire cos
tumes are worked out, the gown frequently
showing Bhaden of the colors, those must
prominent lelng the delicate mauves work
ing up to the purple hat.
The popularity of shirring as a form of
trimming for gowns and accessories has
brought about the introduction of shirred
bands of moussellne de sole ready for use
by the dressmukcr. These bands come in
black or white, bordered Willi Juby ruch
Ings, fancy and plain braid or fringe.
At a recent outdoor function one of the
loveliest costumes on view was nn amber
niousseline de sole with many foaming
flounces all edged with narrow silken fringe
In various shades from lemon to orange.
The hat worn with this gown was of white
chip trimmed with pale yellow ostrich
plumes and u white oeprey.
Miss I-eary. who Is the leader of the fash
ionable Catholic set in New York and New
port, will Immediately go Into mourning
after the death of the poe is announced.
It is understood that the Mackavs, the
Plants, the Ielancy Nicole, the W. K. Van
derbilts, Jr., the Nlelsons. the Roorevelts
(family of ex-ininlsttr to The Hague, the
W. R. Graces. Charles Astnrs, the John D.
rrlmmlnsi-3. the Oelrii lm. the P. K. ('uliiera
and ether promise n I Catholic' families will
cancel many of their social engagements
for a month at least.