What is Going On in Woman's World of Fashion
KW YORK. Auk. lt-To the mind
prone to Idle fancies, lata suro
mcrclothes have a sentimental
air. Specially over the muslins
and other gauzy and perishable
N
textiles may a requiem be said, for unless
they are "renewed." a season's wear leaves
such fabrics in sad condition.
The renewing Is done at the cleaner's
or by the dressmaker herself, and consists
In a slight stiffening with gum arable water
and carefully pressing arterward. Muslin
gowns thus rejuvenated come out as good
as new, unless they are enviously Boiled.
In this case. If the colors stand water, the
trimmings are removed and the costume
treated to an honest bath at a good French
laundry. None but a French laundress can
restore a muslin frock to anything like Its
pristine glory. Considerable manipulation
Is done with the fingers to promote good
efforts after ironing, such as lifting the
gathers with a coarse needle and rounding
out waiRthanda and armhoies.
For doing up a fairly simple muslin
frocks 13 is charged, the price mounting
with greater cluboratness till it may reach
1S.
The end of a season rewires some littlo
renewal or other, and after the tinkering
tho wearing possibilities, with almost
every garment, take on a new lease. To
uLstitute new hat flowers for faded, wind
blown ones Is one of tho August duties of
tho milliner, while even the smartest dress
makers rauft descend at this season to
renewals of all sorts.
One maker of fashionable garments dis
plays luce and ribbon collars for the revival
of bodices past their freshest period. These
are almost capes In depth, and while some
hang open at the front, others fasten In
child-bib fashion down the hack. One such
collar of antique lace and ribbon velvet
was almost waist deep, and hung with such
a sloping simplicity over the shoulders aa
to suggest a circular cut.
The growing fad for snort racq-.o-liko
effects gives other opportunities for lace
In eking out the wear of a damaged bodice.
These dainty little aacqura are no more
than waist length, and have, with their
wide bottoms and loose sleeves, something
of a klmona look. Made entirely of lace
or embroidery, they form part of charming
bouse gowns, whose deep skirt flounces,
or the band above them, may be of the
same material.
The same models are a?ao used far bed
room negligees, which nre sometimes fash
loned of large cotton handkerchiefs
bordered and printed with tho gayest colora.
These are called "bat" klmnims, and a
graceful arrangement of them leaves the
fronts some Inches apart, with narrow rib
bons tying across tho chemise bosom.
The end of the season finds the most
treasured toilettes used for almost any
occasion. Tho Idea Is to wear them out,
and so a threatening day may see women
In costumes of garden party loveliness
lolling In carriages, or halting for a mo
ment by some park bench. Oreat quanti
ties of lace bedeck many of them. Often
many different sorts of lace, in widely
differing patterns, are disposed over the
same gown. Square, diamonds and ovals
of one species of web will show fragments
and accentuations of other sorts. Fragile
insertions letween longitudinal tucks form
one arrangement for the top of a skirt
trimmed at the. bottom with the stoutest
lace.
Tho fu'v for Irtih crochet Is virtually
over, and the entire gowns designed of it
have been consigned to tho limbo of things
too expensive for mortal use. Anyway,
these all-over crochet frocks could never
quite escape the home made tidy look,
and one never saw them without a mo
mentary distaste for their inherent home
liness. On the ether hand, laces far leas
precious, flimsy and almost rag-like in
quality, have lent themselves to fairy ef
fects, which the more beautiful crochet
could never achieve.
In fart, it is only In rather large pat
terns and in odd bodice ahape that Irish
crochet Is really effective. One wuLst with
a design of huge pond' lilies, held together
by tho slenderest threads, seemed divine
over its chiffon lining, but ten minutes
later a little frivolous bo'dy of cream
blonde seemed equally ravishing.
Not slnoe the days of the waterfall and
the side curl have so many laces of the
"blonde" variety been used, and now, to
give the appetite a new fillip, the same
webs are called by any number of new
names. Modern art comes In with the dye
ing, for any number of rich and novel
colors are seen in these silky laces, the
pearly-white sorts of which continue to
trim thin silks, as they used to do long
ago.
Even In the disposition of such laces one
recognises the Influences of defunct styles.
With the close wristband and Innumerable
gathers, the old puffed undersleeve Is seen
In them, the upper one, perhaps, spreading
over It In tho equally old (lowing way.
Then, upon both evening and day skirts. In
thin striped and figured silks, deep edgings
Wilt bo hung in gathered garlands, the nar
row ribbon or velvet rosettes which loop
them exactly matching the old-time ones.
The fringes used on voiles and linens are
also revivals of former styles, aa well as the
Imply gathered waists, some of which.
with their cut-out necks, are only a shudo
more complicated than the ancient and
adored "spencer." These are even worn
with flounced taffeta skirts In the o'd way,
and very likely the owner cf such a get-up
who Is generally a person of modest tastes
will have a silk pelerine tippet to top It
on cool days.
What are we If not reminlscrnt In fash
Ions? The tippets, capes and capelines of
long dead belles urn with us. So are tho
petticoat, whose bouffant foot llounces take
the place of the vanished hnopsklrt. and the
tiny cairlago parasol whose bend at the
handle permits of Its being turned Into a
fan on breathless occasions.
And this brings us to the purely modern
parasol, which. If not quite ns formidable
for coquetry as the tiny sorts. Is still a
powerful weapon Those designed for car
riage or other dressy use. are frivolous In
the extreme, sr.me of them being mere bou
quets of artificial flowers and gauxe. Su
perb effects are Been in black and white,
the lares which Incrust the frail chiffons
and mouraellnes sometimes , taking the
forms of butterflies, swallows and large
stomltss roses. Or. again, the black em
phasis may be of the slightest description,
some tiny cord of chenille or belie velvet
outlining the top and bottom of a flouuco
and forming a ruche or Bhaping a looped
tow at the Terrule.
With the smartest toilettes the parasol
Is plainly a part of the get-up, so carefully
Some Timely
UK apostle Paul was of the opin
ion and he expressed the opinion
forcibly that women should "keep
silence In I lie church," but the
modern members of the sex ut
terly disregard this admonition. They
say the apostle was "a crusty old bache
lor" and was not qualified or authorized
to lay down laws for their government.
At any rate, they refuse to keep silent
and many of them have taken the places
of men In the pulpits.
One of the muni successful women preach
ers in this country is Rev. Caroline Part
lett Crane, pastor of the People's church of
Kalamazoo, Mich., for come years, and
now pastor of the Unitarian church in
Jackson, Mich. She is a western woman
whom the late Robert O. Ingersoll called
a "remarkable woman of divine enthusi
asm," and he declared that If he lived In
Kalamazoo he would join the People's
church, of which she was then pastor. It
might be interesting to know something
about the creed of a church a man like
Ingersoll would have been willing to Join.
The People's church of Kalamazoo has no
creed but a "bond of union," which la as
follows:
"Karnestly desiring to develop in our
selves and In tho world honest, reverent
thought; faithfulness to our highest con
ceptions of right-living, the apirit of love
and service to our fellow men, and alle
giance to all the Interests of msrality and
religion as interpreted by the growing
thought and purest lives of humanity we
join ourselves together, hoping to help one
another in all good things and to advance
tho cause of pure and practical religion in
the community, basing our union upon no
creed test, but upon the purpose herein
expressed, and welcoming all who wish to
join us to help establish truth, righteous
ness and love In the world."
The People's church Is one of the finest
houses of worship in Kalamazoo and one of
the moat Influential churches. When it was
completed the first festive occasion under
its roof was a dinner to which were in
vited every man who had hud any share in
the work of actually building the church.
The carpenters, the masons, the hodcar
riers, the plasterers thoy and their f:unl
llea were invited to be the guests of this
extremely liberal church and to partake
of a banquet spread for them.
Mrs. Crane was pastor of the church for
ten years and resigned the pastorate to
contlnuo her studies at the Chicago uni
versity. r I " I delightfully deft with their fin-
a I mm Kilt ttiA wnm.n iuiiin)l tf
sewing for Americans. A New
York modiste has learned this to
her sorrow. She waa to prepare the cos
tumes for a fancy dress party, and one
of the men connected with it conceived the
bright Idea of employing Japanese- women
to assist in the work. The ucsigns for the
costumes were made by a Japanese artist,
and It would give more atmcsphrrc to the
costumes, he thought. If natie women
made them. Ha knew a liitla Japanese
matron who made her own klmonas, and
she would be giad to sew for the Americans.
In due time she appeared at the rooms
of the modiste with a sister-in-ia w, another
little woman of the same race. They were
ready to go to work and there would lie no
preliminaries but one. They mast have
their money In advar.ee. The modisto
argued. She never paid her work women In
advance; they would be paid. The littlo
brown-faced ladies were gentle. but
persistent. They must have their money
or tlicy could not come. They got their
does It accord In material and trimming.
Flounced sunshades go with flounced frocks
and tucked onea with tucked gowns, but a
bright red or green parasol need not neces
sarily match gown In color.
With such brtPl.mt mushrooms to en
hance the!,- complexions or shade the eyes,
pretty women go bareheaded about the
various resorts, gowns of white duck or
black veiling rendering the parasol all the
mine conspicuous. Kven frocks of linen,
duck and pique. If they nre very smart,
have parasols to match, and they are made
so that the covers can lie taken off and
washed. Mussed and tumbled fineries nre
not smiled upon by Dnnw Fashion. On the
contrary, her favorites show nn exag
gerated fastidiousness In all matters of
neatness. To look ss If you have Just come
out of a bond box is the correct thing.
Apropos of this very serious matter, the
walking frocks summer travelers are bring
ing back from France are no longer of
even touching length. They are called
costumes "trottolr" (literally, pavement
gowns, though meaning street ones), but
all escape the street stones by nt least
two inches. A skirt shorter than this Is
not considered to lie in gooil taste. Neither
is it becoming to any but the slimmest
and youngest wearers.
Pressed In Ikien, duck and pique frock
of this curtailed description, the fate of
the Parisian shopjter Is a Joyous revel
compared to our burdened one. Her short
Tips for Up - to
money und they came. That was the
beginning of a series of tribulations for the
modiste.
The hour of the littlo ladles suited them
selves. They came at 8:30 9, 10 any time
In tho morning they pleased. Then they
must remove their small shoes, get out
their bonbons to nibble as they worked,
and make themselves comfortable. As they
sewed thoy chattered incessantly. At noon
they made tea. They brought their own
tea service, and It took them a good hour
to heat the water and make and driuk the
light-colored liquid they called tea. At 5
they left.
This was too much for the modiste. She
really could not have It. All of her work
women were expected to sew until 6, and
the little Japanese Indira must do tho tamo.
Put they did not.
"Wo must go at 5," they reiterated
gently to everything she said, and as soon
as their toilets were made they left.
Tho toilets, however, required consider
able time. Never were there such prlnkers.
Kach little lady rouged her cheeks, touched
her lips with carmine an-1 darkened her
eyes. Then, when they wnrf at last ready
to depart, every small boy In the neighbor
hood gathered around t see them off. It
was altogether too much, even If the
Japanese women had been good seam
stresses, which they were not.
They were able to make women's cos
tumes, but about thos-.t for the men they
had no Idea. The modiste had prepared
herself for the work anil her Ideas were
clear and well defined, and she knew how
to get work out of the. wny In a hurry.
She could give the Japanese women points
ns to the designs and cut nut a dozen
a alow process of measuring and marking,
garments to their one. Their cutting waa
One American workwoman could do three
times as much sewing aa the two Japanese,
and do it better. Atmosphere at that price
waa too expensive, and the little Japanese
women, their bonbons, paint boxes and tea
things, departed. The modiste Is not look
ing for other Oriental needlewomen.
I VXJ-T- ... n u V, ti .flan
1 la one beauty's good advice.
' I "Don't w.iBh It at nil " la
another'a counsel.
Don't bo a goose," says a third.
"but use a little common sense and wash
jour face twice a day night and morning."
Don't wash It oftener. If cleansing la
necessary during the day, tise a little
cream. Washing the fnce too frequently
removes the natural oil and gives the skin
a withered look.
Don't use hard water if you value your
complexion. The excess or lime in hard
water neutralizes the oil In the pVres of
the skin, and thus hardens the cuticle.
Don't use any but rain water or distilled
water. Rain water la, In fact, the only
water fit to wash the face with. Many
beauties of romance owed their charma
to its saving virtues. It keeps the skin
soft und velvety, and makes beauty last aa
long us life Itself.
Don't be afraid of soap. It is rot the
enemy to the complexion that many people
consider It. It is infinitely better for the
skin than the dirt which will collect In the
pores after a warm day.
Don't forget, however, to rinse the face
with clear-water, after using soap, because
you don't want any left on the face to clog
the pores. Once u day Is quite often enough
to use soap.
Don't use a sponge; It no longer fills a
long-felt want on the toilet table, because
It is apt to become filled with germs
poisonous to tho skin. Uso a bit of
antiseptic cloth, or the hunds.
Don't bo afraid of a complexion brush.
skirt, with Its careful rut and make. Is
another coquetry. Cap collars showing
embroidery, lace or tucks lend a touch
of elegance to the bodice of the practical
littlo frock, and the flat hat worn with It
may rev ml numlx-rless others.
"Such flat hats ns are being worn now
In Paris," writes one correspondent. "Tin y
are aa big round as an Kngllah bath tul
the portable sort and with wreaths of
roses as huge as coffee saucers massed
about the crown. At the back, under tho
brim, there ore festoons of narrow ribbon
velvet hanging In stiff loops. These fall
over the coiffure, which Is as frequently
worn low as high, and the front of tho
chaneau tilts over the nose In the old
way."
A word as to this. Paris Is not the only
place for such I'irge ami lowly built rli.i
peaux. All the good shop- in this country
are showing them complete patterns of
the French models down to the velvet
festoons at the buck. The roses have not
yet reached the coffee, saucer size, but thcrj
nre many such In the market mach re
duced In price, and their arrangement upon
a hat is easy.
White ostrich feathers. In combination
Willi black ribbon velvet, form a French
combination also seen here on brim hats
of conrse cream panama. One novel shape
has the side of the brim tied basket fash
ion over the crown. MAItY PKAN.
- J3ate Women
Used gently. In connection with a toilet
cream. It has a wonderful effect In remov
ing the blotchy upearunce of the skin.
iHm't dry the face with a rough towel
If you want to keep the skin smooth; In
stead, use a fine, damask one, and "dabble"
tho face with It. This preserves the delicate
appearance of the skin.
lAltRIACK would no longer lie a
failure if tautology were under
stood by tho people who now wed
blindly, for better r worse, l.ub
iology Is a most Important scien
tific study the study of character by tho
shape, expression and texture of the lips.
It should be the very A II C of love, the
key to one's dcattny. for with a thorough
knowledge of lablology no woman will mako
a mistake in choosing a partner for life."
So declares Miss I.llllan Kemble of Chi
cago, who is so firm a believer In the lgnn
of the science that she will let them decldo
her matrimonial fate.
"Among society women the study of lab
lology Is rapidly liecoming a fad," says Miss
Kemble. "It is certainly Interesting, to say
nothing of instructive. Many a man and
woman realize to their chagrin what a
rarity is a perfect nose, but until I began
this study it did not occur to me how low
perefct lips there are.
"It is simply a revelation. Kit her the lips
are too thick or too thin; some looking llko
a square cut In the face a mere porthole,
for food and an export hole for talk while
others appear weak and Infantile.
"And again Dame Nature lias made tho
lips too severe, angular, contemptuous, bit
ter, hard or too mild, characterless. Insipid.
And so on through the entire Up category.
"I talked with many scientists and others
whose favorite themes are physiognomy.
"It seems that two fleshy folds surround
ing the orlt.ee of the mouth or. In less
technical terms the lips are Ineffaceably
Impressed with marks of character and may '
be read with the aame ease and Interest as
the latest book by one Initiated iato the
mysteries or the lip language. These, for
Instance, are the infallible signs for ymiths
to study ir they would shun an unhappy
alliance and find the road to connubial bliss.
"if the lips of your lady love herder a
large and generous mouth, you may rest
assured that she is warm hearted auid uf
fectionate, and aa a wife would be gent In,
loving and truthful. If this generosity of
form la too pronounced the ptisueHr Is of
course nature and would make uu undeslr
ablo mate.
"A small mouth, with tightly drawn lips
indicates great self-control, with occasional
bursts of affection and ill temper not a bad
combination, as occasional clouda often
make sunshine all the brighter.
"A desirable outline la formed in tho lips
that develop their fullness In the center,
which Is the sign of refined love."
yf-5v laaiirta PTt,Soft,Whitt Skla
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