What is Going On in Woman's World of Fashion
I presented everywhere for yacht-
I Infr nun ulHltn Ihu itlmitrvlnir ovn
e?c-;w
as much .simpler than those worn
last summer. On the other hand,
bathing clothes are more elaborate than
ever, whleh Is saying a great ileal, con
sidering what fixy, costly things they have
been for two seasons or more.
Some lately Imported "sea toilettes." us
both yachting and bathing clothes are
called by the French, strike a happy me
dium between too much extravagance and
too much simplicity. True, luithlng suits
are short enough to show trousers which
are unmistakably trousers those left loosa
below the knee have even a pantalette look;
and equally true It Is that the first salt
breeze would deplorably wilt the materials
used for some of the yachting frocks. Hut
the Bummer girl must get used to bathing
trousers, for after all it is more modest
for them to be seen than not. And as for
the yachting frocks In flimsy materials, let
her merely follow their lines and she will
be all right.
It Is quite evident from a few of the tex
tures used that French women sometimes
take their sailing trip? on dry land, so to
peak. In form the gowns are perfect, the
skirts hanging with correct plainness and
the blouse bodices suggesting Just enough
of the Jolly mariner not to seem exaggera
tions J?ut whlta nnd oVllralcly tinted veil
ings, exquisitely fine, are seen, nnd linens,
ducks and piques far too fragile in quality.
Into these are also sometimes inserted the
heavy laces and embroideries of the pea
son, but though the sensible maid will
rcliel at such frivolities, she cannot hut
admit that In form the French yachting
frock Is a dainty charmer.
Rules laid down by good makers for
yachting wear forbid flounced skirts and
elaborate sleeves. The skirt trimming may
be put on with a flounce suggestion, but the.
model Is gored to the hem and often
weighted there with lead. As further pro
tection against the winds, yachting skirts
are also narrower than those worn in the
street, and some of the kilted designs fit
without a gather down to the flare point.
The prevailing sleeve of the summer, the
Inverted mutton-leg. Is more seen than any
other, but Its size Is always kept within
sensible bounds. For the rest, sailor collars
of all sorts are seen, and almost every
bodice fastens at the front with a soft
rautical tie.
The low canvas shoes, which are preferred
In white, have rublxr soles, and the pop
ular cap so nearly resembles the headpiece
worn by man for the same service that
they cannot be told apart.
The blue flannel and white pique com
bination of the masculine sailor Is also
imitated in some of the costumes, with the
difference that the feminine coat generally
sports brass buttons of the brightest hue.
The pique skirt has strapped seams and a
heavily stitched deep hem.
A coarse wool buntiag, introducing the
uneven weave of the flag quality, is em
ployed for some of the most serviceable
frocks. Rands, belts and collars and cuffs
in plain color provide neat and effective
ornamentation, and In the way of color
effects red and white Is a combination
much seen. Some all red bunting gowns
arc also observed, but dark blue is moro
frequently noticed than any other color,
and the old white trimmings continue to
embellish it.
A number of yachting frocks made for
the opening of the season, which Is gen
erally In July, show the predilection of
the smart world for this time-honored com
bination. Gowns in flannel, duck, bunting,
pique and linen all present the homely blue
and white effect, and designs were so simple
that It looked as if the fashionable world
must think anything else vulgar. It is
astonishing how unpretentious smart
women often are in the clothes designed
for all outing occasions. So when one
wmes across a frivolous yachting frock,
furbelowed and foolish to the top notch,
the mind pictures with it a pair of uneasy
sea legs. Only a novice in marine pleasures
would buy such a gown, or expect to be
happy In It, for rolling decks, salt sprays
and brisk winds require toggery that will
stand wear.
The under rigging necessary for correct
yachting gowns also leans to the practical,
for more bloomers nre worn than petticoats
and no attempt at ornamenting them to
made. Wash silks, either In the color of
the costume or in black, are used for
them.
Tretty and novel yachting dcialls are seen
In belt', sto -kings ami cap., which last are
soft wool Tarns" on the beret order. Tho
lulls are of white and colored ducks and
pi H lies, with sometimes a contrasting bund.
In plain or spotted stuff, down the middle."
They are extremely narrow at the tongue
portion nnd gilt harness buckles give them
a pretty finish.
The Ftcckingsto put It mildly are loud.
With the most brilliant colors there nre
pronounced piebald effects in pattern, open
worked ln!'teis and elaborate clocking, all
of which magnificently make up for tho
plain frock worn with them. The sex Is
nothing If not Inconsistent, but when M hi
considered that fancy stockings do nut
Interfere with the business in hand the
present lapse may be explained. Far below
the surface of thine there is genen.lly a
reason for woman's madness; and Inci
dentally the rest of this reason is that
the gay stockings are really fetching.
Going from this dry sea pleasuring to the
wet sort, one feels Inclined to marvel at
the frivolity of tho fashionable bathing
girl. Her salt dips will be taken in nothing
else than silk, satin and brilllantine of the
gayest pattern. The little suits whleh
these rich textures realize nre also most
elaborately made, rlblwtn lacings, stitched
bands and tucks nnd shirtings knocking nil
preconceived notions of salt water exig
encies on the head.
The old blue flannel bathing suit of baggy
make and jhrinklng tendency is c inspleu U:!
by its absence. In Its place the new mode
suggcat, with their short puff sleeves nnd
smartly flared skirts, stat;c s! irt waiat
gowns or French doll dresses.
The bhuisirg bodices, which are as long
watated as those for street wear, are
girdled tautly Into corsetted waists by gay
wttr.h lel!s. Many bodices are high in the
neck, but the sailor collars of others roll
away from an open V of modest depth, or
the nock may be cut out round or square.
In no case is the bathing deoolletiigc very
low. though the sleeves are Invariably the
shortest puffs, and the skirts are of the
most abbreviated description, for here, as
well as against stockings which imitate
Some Timely
,OT satisfied with her own rest-
N
cures, the up-to-date woman has
taken to resting her clothes. It
works like a charm. Nothing
induces shabblness in coats nnd
gowns more than the lines and wrinkles
which show that they have been worn und
reworn. Sitting creases and the walking
creases make a garment old lefore it has
done half its duty.
Men know this better than women. A
man Is well dressed with a small wardrobe,
because every week or no ho makes a
change of clothes, sends the suit he has
been wearing to the tailor, and never by
any chance allows a wrinkle to become
fixed In his garments.
Not all of woman's frocks can go to the
tailor; though, with the inexpensive tailor
service now to be had, she will do well to
send her street frocks frequently to be
brushed and pressed. Hut she can manage
to change her rlothea often enough to give
them all an entire rest. Many sermons
have been preached on this point concern
ing shoes. Kveryone knows how necessary
it is to change them frequently and put
those not in uso away on shoe trees to pre
vent the formation of wrinkles that become
permantent more quickly in leather than,
in dress goods, liut it is quite as iiniiortant
to treat coats and frocks In the same way.
The lest rest is given by putting both
skirt and bodies in long hnx'js or bureau
drawers, where they can lie in light folds.
If sleeves and trimmings are filled out
with issue paper, so much the belter. Coat
and skirt hangers can be had at reasonable
prices. They economize room in a clothes
press and skirts and coats placed on them
lose in a few days thu lines where they
have conformed to the figure. These lines
not only spoil the frush appearance of a
frock, but the material wears around them
and loses color In streaks.
Wash frocks should always be put away
In trunks, drawers or tioxes, whether they
have been worn or not, for In hanging they
grow stringy, are more easily affected by
dampness and lose their freshness before
they are worn.
A pretty girl with more taste than money
always put away her ribbons and laces
to rest. This Is not an much to freshen
them, though they are Improved by it, as
to have something which is new to her and
her friends when she rewears them ufter
their "rest-cure."
w-. OKCH parties nre now lite 05ue.
I A clever hostess recently rent
FimH.I out Invitations for a 'Tolly
L'frH'Effl "lH,r party. The cards gave
mi 1:11113 tu nit? ii-iiure 01 me
aff?.ir and each guest was left to wonder
what a 'Tolly I'iper" might e.
When the guests assembled on the wide
porch they found it set with liw tallies
and chairs of all sorts and conditions.
Gay cushions promised comfort, plants
and hanging baskets offered sweetness, but
no 'Tolly 1'iper" was In evidence.
On the small tables an array of clay
pipes was spread, all new and sweet
smelling. Were the fair guests inv.ted to
a smoker? The appearance of the host-as,
loaded down with sheaves of tissue anl
cree paper of every imaginable shade,
with scissors und with mucilage Ixittb-s,
relieved their perplexity. When she an
nounced that each guest Must make hi r
own 'Tolly riper" there was an instant
babble of questions and exclamations.
Kach guest was given a pipe, with in
structions that she was to dress It within
forty-live minutes, at the end of which
tlmo prizes were to be awarded to the two
whose work should be Judged Im-sL F.'ich
one might select three strips of paper from
which to fashion a costume. To make the
doll complete each one must have a fai-e
drawn also.
' Tho guests, went immediately to work,
socks, the line of taste Is drawn. Some re
gard for propriety- as the Invich signs put
it- is the first and only commandment for
battling clot In
A number of the h st phops arc showing
bathing suits patterned accurately after
the French models, all of whleh allow the
trousers to appear Iw low the edge of tho
skirt. The American method of having
theiri hidden by the skirt Is considered on
the other side .1 little shocking, for t'lls
graphic Kin:llsh word, whleh has bi-eu
added to the French vocabulary, is now
frequently tid against us.
Vlth the Imported suits go giy silk
handkerchiefs or oiled s!IU caps for the
head, or maybe coquettish pique hats
which are net expected to take the witery
dip. The strings of these tie child fashion
unWr the chin, crd the wearer of such a
pret'y headpiece will doubtless conieni her
self with merely wetting her equally pretty
ankles.
A black satin f-ult with scirlet hands
presents one stylish scheme of color, and
a blue and white checked brilllantine with
black rlblxri lacings another. More thin
one of these suits is provided with a bril
liantly tinted sish of silk, satin, pongo,
or brilllantine. which encircles the waist,
knots at the left side and there falls In
Iun,j ends, one smart little brilllantine
Tips for Up - to -
selecting their papers with reference of
the character whleh their partlcul ir dill
was to assume. Gray and w'.iitc. pa; e s
were chosen for the doll which w.ia t J do 1
Quaker garb, navy blue and red for the
Salvation Army girl, blue and white for
the yachting costume, while the gayest
colors on the table went to rig out a
veritable Toiay. Needles, thread and
thimbles were furnished mil luiste for
those who preferred to use lt
After selecting her material.-! eicli guest
was expected to seat herself as far ai
possible, from the others, in order to give
undivided attention to her own dull. At
first It seemed impossible to do anything
with the awkward pipes, but by degrees
the interest quickened and one after an
other became absorbed in her w irk.
At the end of the time allowed the dolls
were required to be handed In for criticism.
There were bahlet In long dre-sca, ballot
girls In short full skirts, summer girls with
frou frous of drapery, full ruffs of softly
crumpled paper nnd picture hata, nurao
maids indeed all kinds of dolls were rep
resented. Hut tho lirst. prize was given t
"Utile Hed Hiding Hood," whoae costume
was not only well made, but whosr; f.;ct
had been drawn upon paper and fastened
over the open end of tho pipa, do.'n? away
with the little "knob" nose which every
other doll possessed. 8he also had been
made complete with paper arms. The sec
ond prize was awarded to a Chines min
darln, whose Oriental robes were well
simulated.
The award of prizes was followed by the
serving of luncheon and the nffiir wai
voted one of the most successful of the
season.
ON'T think that you can lay the
j I cornet stone of beauty and health
1 unless the laws of hygiene are
fejVWkl observed.
1 1 ir J Don't be afraid of freau air.
Not fresh air, but the lack of It Is the
cause of a sallow skin and dull eyes.
Don t be afraid to take deep breaths
from an erroneous Idea that the lungs are
favored in this way. Conscious, deep
breathing practiced dully make strong
lungs and clear complexions.
Don't carry your worries to bed with
you if youwnnt to have 11 smooth ukln and
attractive expression.
Di.n't take your beauty aleep after 6 In
the morning, but before-11 at night.
Don't sleep In garments worn during the
day.
Don't wash your face before going out In
the sun or wind.
Don't go out In the sun sans hat, sans
veil, sans gloves, unless you want the
complexion of a North American Indian.
Don't use the complexion brush with a
heavy hand.
Don't put the complexion brush away
without scalding It.
Don't put sticky cold creams on the face.
Don't wear a facemask at night. Youi
skin needs ill the air it can get.
Don't try to doctor a miserable com
plexion with medicine taken by the quart.
Substitute exercise, air and wholesome
food for drugs, and the complexion will
take care of Itself.
Frills of Fashion
fjualnt little stickpins have stone arrow
heads for heads.
Some of the new wide leather Iel1 fasten
In front with a lm of leather instead of
the buckles.
Fxecedingly pretty babies' caps made en
tirely of Mexican wheel work are run
with narrow ribbons In colors.
A prettv h.it trimmed with deep pink rose
has :i delicate pink veil worn with It, and
a hat with deep red roses is shown with a
Veil of delicate blue.
A faddish handkerchief hs n liltle pocket
In one corner, with a buttoned Hap, to
frock, whose bodice sported a tucked shirt
yoke, displayed this sasll in spotted rod
and white silk. The head handkerchief
matched and plain scarlet stockings wore
advised for tho get-up.
A word further as to scarlet bathing
alocktrgs- ver body may not sport tlietn
however stylish they are. lied ha sonio
l..i.v a magnifying quality, so thick utikl
I. .". better cling to black, which Is nlwi
"slimming" in tendency. Cotton stocking
of moderate weight are better than the
thin gauze 1'sle ones more frequently worn.
For the trip from the bath house to tho
water, French makers supply long doiksj
of s'-ift Manuel and strap sandals of canvas
or leather, which are delightful coquetries
in themselves. In buying them it slmi'I I
Is remembered that the cbtak and Kami lis
must match in color. The clumsy bathing
stockings provided with cork soles are worn
only by Aunt Amandas nnd Cousin Sallies
from I'odunk.
Hatliing setts for children follow the oil
sensible lines and simple textures 1'u
shrlnkuble blue flannels with white braid
trimmings nre used for both sexes, with
ti mixture of cotton nnd wool In a niottl ' l
weuv , by way of a new material. Hut
flannel is the favorite texture, snd hhnt
and white the popular combination as ever.
HAHY DKAM.
Date Women
hold car fare. The heavy silk or linen
ones are sometimes affected by bicyclists.
This is a green season almost as pro
nouncedly as it Is a white season. All
shades of the clear color urn worn, tint
bright parrot and leaf greens predomi
nating. A charming hat for a child is made of
white horsehair braid, the different rows
having the effect of being runlet! m. Tint
hat l: trimmed with lilies of the valley
and a large knot of white ribbon.
A 1 .mtty outdoor wrap for Ihe small girl
is a Liltle K'd Hiding Hood nnd cape.
These are of cloth lined. The hood Is gath
ered around the face, but a little long at
either side, not drawing up unpleasantly
under the chin.
A fairy-like gown of while organdie has
for a foundation a slip of white taffeta,
finished at the Item Willi a plaited rullle.
Yoke and high collar are of Valenciennes
lace, with a touch of Irish lace rroiiiid tint
base of the collar. The blouse is tucked
for fullness and the lower half is inerusted
with Valenciennes and Irish lace. The
skirt has a princess girdle of lace In points,
and below this the sktrt Is tucked. Tho
graduated flounce starts In points from a
lace heading which forms a deolgu of
ix.ints and how knots on the body of tho
skirt. The sleeves are lucked half way to
the elbow, where they are finished with a
very uecp pointed rullle, lace trimmed.
For and About Women
Miss Annie Perk, the inouutnln climber,
has left for Bolivia and says she will not
return home unill she has c!lmled Mount
Borialu and planted her alitenstock upon
its hitherto unconqucred crest.
The. author of that well known hymn,
"Safe In the Arms of Jesus." Mrs. Van
Alstyne, has Jhsl entered on her elghly
llun year, in ner day she is said to nave
produced no fewer than 2,Ui hymns.
feme. l,oi bet, v if j of the French prcsl
di n . be.ieve.-i in education. Kcceully at
a society uf Frencn mothers cue brought
down upon herself severe criticism by
advocating American methods of training
girls.
I-ady Glentw.irlh, an English won. an who
distinctly remembers seeing the guards
march on on Ihtir way to Waterloo, cele
brated her l(Mtn birthday recently. She has
borne her present title fur slxty-clght
years.
Having won the degree of master of arts
at the New ICork university nfter 11 three
years' course of study. Mrs. Chsrlcs II.
Trtiax, wire of Judge Truax, will begin
active work in a philanthropic MKiely that
will look after poor inebriates.
Mrs. Sarah Snook uf HI. Joseph 1s Mis
souri's oldist Inhabitant. She is lu:i years
old. She eats pie, liw cream and other
things; walks a mile every day for exer
cise; e;in see ns far and reads 11s well with
out ,'l -.s:es as many yiuig people and re
members well many great characters of
this country almost a century ngo. She
rt-lc I ruled the hWd anniversary of her birth
at. the ho-ne of her daughter. Mrs. Agues
Jacquny. Airs. Snouli id a native of Louis
ville. Ky.. and sjcnt many yea's or her lite
in Kansas.
Counttss von Waldersee. who was born
nnd educated In this country, lias been
writing reminiscences for a magazine In
speaking of Von Mi. like she sas Hint "11
more retiring und nudist man thnu Von
Moltke i o ild not be found. He insisted
upon having the smallest room In the Iioiihu
for his hid r om. with scarcely any deco
ration In It but the port ml I of Ills wife, 10
whose memory he was very devoted. At
his chateau, t'relsau. he chose slso a mod
es! room. He built there a maufolcnni for
bis wife. Ihe tiey to which was alv.'uvti l-i
Ids pixkct. ral he had fresh lluwcrs jilav-ed
there every day."
, Insures Pure.Soft.U'aitcSlila
and a Iieantiful Complexion,
earoi y.ezecia am! Trtfr. An
' ailutlv and Pt.ra-.nni:itl
N'i i. , tin, l'lmplm, llmJni .-, bun
wy v V i.U ml Tn. bV-d witbl
J Iierm 1; Tl 8o s I'er
jL:. ft-1 nUii in insured.
.trV So!d fc BmooW. or
'rVY ' miy b ordered direct.
-Royal. 1 r bo tile. pr paid.
v-tta)il Mump, US cent'., by mail.
JUotti pairkaHr, tl.W, ciira4 pi.idW
1 Portrait and TtHmotaals sent en rrutit.
One Dottle FREE to Agents.
tUC l-tSI A-HOTA L.H r einriaizmcl. C,
A
Derosa
Uarama
