Collarless Shirt Waist a Hot-Weather Fad
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8WKKT SIMPLICITY IN A COKURD SIMC.
BAND OF APPLJgUK UOKS SKHV1CB FOK A CULLAK.
8 IN j
KW YOKK. Jun 19. New Btylra
RIMitr with the ec-iilv hv&l
which too oftrn mnrtiB tnldnum-
di-nrn over all othT thhiga, but
the never mudlnteB have founrt a way to
comlilno it with beauty. The result ia the
CullarlH lloun.
The fanhlon atartl laat year, and haa
hH' wlilmprcad urowth. Aa tha thrmnmo
ter mounta hlh)r, collarh ahlrt walata
will miiltl4y In numbw and IncrfAae In
bitatity. In net, dotted and plain; lace. em-,
tiruhlery and the aheerent of aummer
fHl.rliFi they will have a cool appearance
In the lietteat weather.
White la the dominant color, though em
brolilery In color la uaed with dainty efTect.
Kvt-n the heavier llnena are made in the
collnrh'HB fanhlon They are more durable
and tmltt their ahape better than the thin
ner niHterlala. They are usually orna
nienU'd with hematltchlns, drawn work or
eiiilirollry
A Hlmple Ihien Wouae la Btrijed with
band of drawn work half an Inch wide.
These run three Inchea apart, up and down
on the wnlst, and around the arm on the
sleeves. The aleevea are elbow length,
eaeh flnlnhed by a nnrrow shaped frill
edfted with the drawn work. A short,
round collar of solid drawn work finishes
the neck.
A similar waist was finished at the throat
by a black satin Hiring- tie and a turnover
collar of drawn work. This la a novel way
of converting- a stock shirt waist Into a col
larlens one. The sutln tie may be of any
Bhad and the turnover of lace or em
broidery shiiwa to km1 advantage over It.
The woman with a round, columnar
throat can rpjolre In these collarless waists,
but for her who ts It as fortunate there are
Mil inline frills at the neck which are cool
and becoming. There are also boned col
lars of open-work lace, or of ribbon or lace
lattice work.
A dainty blouse of white mull haa an
ovcr-botlk-e of black hice Insertion lattice
work, through whose Interstices the white
mull folds look delightfully cool. The col
lar Ik also of the luce lattice work.
A strip of nppll'iue in an open design
often forma an apology for a collar. It in
tinUmed, as are the collars on most of the
all-over lace wnlKt. These are formed of
a wldo strip of Ince Insertion and crush
down In the wearing.
due of the npptltiue collars is used on a
w:ilnt of Persian lawn. The blouse Is orna
mented with wide tucks of the material and
with litch-wldo luce Insertion. Two of the
lucks meet to form the pleat effi-ct down
the front. On either side rows of the In
sertion alternnte with clusters of the tucks.
Th. insertion la fancifully applied above
the bust to give a round yoke effect. A
wide tuck, headed by a band of the inser
tion, runa around the arm six Inchea below
ttm top of the Bleeve. A similar trimming
emphasis the puff jiist above the mod
rulely narrow, tU;bt fitting cuff. This is
formed of the tucks and Insertion. The
blouae 's fastened down the back with
small pearl buttons.
Something of the collarless waist effect
la obtained in the blouses which have a
narrow standing collar of openwork lace,
which is continued down in a shallow
rounded or pointed yoke. The collar line,
so unbecoming to many throats, is thus
done away with.
A cool blouao of wash silk is made with
a certain girlish simplicity. It Is almost
tight fitting, only blouslng slightly in the
front over a deep belt of the silk. This
latter is rather unusual. It is slashed at
Intervals to allow flowered ribbon in pastel
rhades to be run through and tied In the
back In a bow with long loops and ends.
The shallow, oddly pointed yoke and the
narrow standing collar are in one piece
of heavy white lace. The elbow sleeves
puff slightly at the bottom over a loose
frill cuff of the lane.
Elbow sleeves seem the fitting accom
paniment of the collarless blouse. A geisha
waist of white India linen has elbow sleeves
finished by wide ruffles. The linen is
tucked to form a yoke. The fullness over
the bust is furnished by Inch-wide bands of
embroidery Inserted between the clusters
of tucks. Rach band is headed by an eni
brodiery medallion In a peacock pattern.
Larger medallions are set as a finish
around the neck. The sloeves are ver
tically tucked and the wldo, hemstiched
ruffles are pleated a trifle at the Inside
arm seam to relieve them of clumsiness.
Another elbow Bleeve blouse is of white
Persian lawn. A wide strip of embroidery,
flanked by Inch-wide hemstitched tuck:),
gives a panel effect to the front. Shorter
embroidery strips and hemstitched tucks
extend down to the bust line on each side.
Embroidery finishes the round neck. The
sleevoa are vertically tucked and their
ruffles are finished with hemstitching.
Strips of embroidery or applique are fre
quently set on the blouse, ray fushion, to
give the effect of a round yoke. They
extend a trifle above the neck and form a
A chic blouse of pale blue dimity is thus
finish.
trimmed with white applique In a daisy
clii-.ln pattern. The strips are set on the
tucked yoke so that they meet around the
neck. The elbow sleeves puff above full
nifllea of the material. They are orna
mented with strips of the applique. Scat
tered duifios are set at intervals on the
edge of the ruffles.
IVtlsles, whether of hand embroiilory or
applique, arc favorite Mowers on summer
waists. When they are embroidered In the
natural colors they are extremely pretty.
The desire for drawn work on the sum
mer blouses lias brought about the discov
ery that Mexican drawn work doilies can
be used nt, a dress trimming. A chain of
small square dollies can be applied to form
a panel front. They are set oa diagonally.
Smaller doilies finish the neck or ornament
the bust line on either side of the front.
Small Mexican drawn work wheels can now
be obtained fur dress trimmings. Entire
yokes are made, of them. They are often
Joined by fancy stitching, thus giving aa
even more cobwebby effect.
IIAKKIET HAW LEY.
Seven Miles of Wedding Rings
a ltlliVI J a v J v;rsa u smiu sv
I " I In New York In the past year
at I Minurh WMidlnir rlnir tn rMrh.
if placed one bt-fore the other,
from the city hall along Broadway
to One Hundred and Twentieth street,
a distance of about 7.1 milea. This Is the
estimate of a manufacturer Interviewed by
the New York Sun.
According to his calculations there have
been sent out in the past year some Ov).(W)
wedduig rings. Of these he has manu
facture! more than SOO.'X1. and In their
making he has tired an even ton of pure
gold. The rings sell from (3 to 115, but
where' they all go le a mystery to him.
"There are only about five wedding ring
manufacturers in the city," he said, 'but
these five are kept constantly busy with
orders from all parts of the country, every
month In the year.
"It seems as if everybody It) the United
States must have leen mnrrled and pur
chased one of my rings since 1 have been In
business, for I have sold several million.
This Is equally true of my competitor
across the street and my competitor up the
avenue.
"Many people might suppoao that tho
$15 ring would lf the one purchased by the
millionaire to pr. f-ent to his bride, and that
the fJ ring would be ImiiRht by the work
Ingman, but the case is exactly tho reverse.
The workingman stems to want the wed
ding ling that will cover his wife's entire
hand, while the wealthier purchaser wnnts
a small ring, so as to allow room for a
finger full of diamonds and other gem.
"When you talk about style In wedding
rings you are talking about something
that does not exist. The station In life de
termines it all. Perhaps the most common
and most prevalent variety, in the past
few years at leust, is that about three
tenths of an Inch la width and weighing
six pennyweight."
At this point the manufacturer set out
on the counter fifteen or twenty rings,
ranging In width from a circle no more
cumbersome than an engagement ring to
the broad, thick band.
"There are your styles." he said. "They
vary in diameter from half an inch to an
Inch, the average being about three
quarters of an Inch."
His interviewer did a little figuring on
a iKid, and announced that euO.OuO rings, at
three-quarters of an Inch In thickness,
wXiulil nmke about 450.000 Inches, or nbout
37.500 feet. If placed one before the other.
This number of feet divided by 6,0, the
number of feet In a mile, would make the
total string of rings 7.1 miles, or the dis
tance from the city hall to One Hundred
and Twentieth street In Harlem.
"Do you Imagine." the dealer was asked,
"that these rlnps seal GUO.OTO marriage con
tracts every year?"
"No," he replied. "Of late years it has
become the custom, and the custom is
growing, for both parties to n marriage to
wenr the ring, and this accounts for the
Increase In the number made and sold.
Trobably. out of thla 600.110 ring-" sold,
from 75.0VI to 0,000 are worn by men."
"Do you manufacture engagement
rings V
The mnnufneturer smiled.
"There Is a funny thing about that."
he said. 'Last year I sold 15,000 more
engagement rings than wedding rings.
and I suppose my competitors have run
about the same. Of course, that places
the sale of engagement rings far ahead
of the number of wedding rings sold."
"How do you account for the difference?"
he was asked.
"Well," he said smilingly, "when a man
buys a wedding ring he usually means
business, and when he buys an engagement
ring, well well he may mean anything.
And where one man may buy a dozen en
gagement rings, usually one wedding ring
Is enough for him. How this overplus
of engagement rings compares with the
breach of promise suits I cannot say."
TR.T. FILiX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL
J CS-FAM. 0 MAGICAL BhAUflPIFI
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FKRD. T. HOPKIKI, Prop'i,
IrTYBf ii-a-aw I
