What is Going On in Woman's World of Fashion
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IJ I fashions for sporting use Include
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conveniences that the get-up
seems almost a failure If these
are not provided.
In Tarls the costume for automoblllng,
especially for long distances, presents a
muffled and swathed appearance, for In
this case the Parlslenne eschews the
frivolous for the practical. Ixnj.ie coat,
covering the gown from neck to heels, are
often worn- Their proteeliveness is their
chief virtue. A baggy hood envelops the
bead and under the brim of the' plain hat
big goggles loom with a grotesque ugltne-s.
If the goggles are not worn a combined
mica mask and veil may be substituted.
When the thoroughly disguised beauty
lifts her skirts In getting out of the
equipage, top boots of stout leather, almost
as clumsy as those worn by duck hunters,
are sometimes disclosed.
The gloves for "active service," ns the
Slang phrase Is, are proportionately heavy,
with hygienic perforations at the doubled
palms and unstiffoned gauntlet tops button
ing over tho sleeves.
Many little conveniences nre to bo h:id
separately, among them the desirce, a
combined mica mask, veil and hood. This
adjusts Itself to any hat, the gathered top
fitting around the crown with a rubber
drawstring. Another drawstring pulls in
the neck of the hood and a ruffled tail gives
further surety against grime and grit.
Shower-proof gloria In soft greens, grays
and browns are much used for these cloaks
and hoods, which, when removed, some
times reveal costumes of a finished ele
gance that contrasts delightfully with the
hell thrown off.
Thus emerging from her chrysalis, the
automobile butterfly Is ready for the smirt
luncheon or breakfast given at the country
bouse or club to which she has Journeyed.
In this country, though long trips are
frequently taken, automobile attire doei
not go to such extremes, except In the cae
of the ultra-fashionable. A silk rain cloak,
assumed only for this occasion, may display
the ruffled bond, but the coat generally
worn takes to unnumbered elegancies, and
the hat above it may show all the splen
dors of the season.
At the recent coaching parade In Paris
many large hats turned up at the sldo dis
played a single wreath or more of tiny
flowers, disposed against the otherwise tare
brim, as If flung there. Two or three of
these dainty little wreaths, when ornament
ing a hat, were Interlaced with charming
effect, the headpiece showing no other
flowers than these minute garlands of pale
pink or blue.
Stunning coats seen on the occasion were
of cloth. In colors to suit the gown which
would be worn beneath, for, curious to re
late, during the Hols pageant these coats
were folded In narrow parcels and laid
over the knee. Some brilliant tints were
ecn scarlet, pastel blue and rose and
Hortensla violet among them. In contrast
with these exquisitely smooth cloths all
sorts of airy textures composed the gowns
themselves.
Inexpensive and smart ready-made coats
to be hud for automobltlng and driving,
both abroad and In this country, are made
of brllliantine and fancy tweed or cheviot.
An effective model In dark blue brlllian
tine is handsomely trimmed with an Orien
tal banding In black, red and white. This
Is double breasted, with flowing sleeves,
as are the majority of such coats,
but the heavier wool stuffs, especially if In
novel weaves, are more frequently trimmed
with plain cloth than unything else.
Tourists summering In France and En
Eland will do well to provide themselves
with one of these coats Immediately upon
arrival, as they are indispensable for coun
try jaunts. The traveler who comes In
Vrfitact with the most entertaining people
on these excursions is always the one who
is properly dreseed. The notion that any
thing will do for the "tramp abroad" is a
great mistake.
In Paris especially careful toilette is al
ways a necessity, for there are no people
In the world who are so offended by a bad
one as are the French. Many are the bit
ing remarks the wearer of shabby, unfash
ionable clothrs will hear as she passes
along the street, and since to do as the
Romans do is everywhere a protection,
the wise woman will not invite tho scoffs
of the world simply because she is away
from home.
Golf toggery presents no exception to the
rule of sporting things, and every trilie
that can be thought of is provided for the
girl who wields the stick. However, the
maid who Is out of town all summer will
soon s!lp up In the matter of prescribed
golf effects, and In the end she may be
. met In tennis shoes and the remnant of a
gown never Intended for the links.
It was this growing Indifference to golf
traditions which gave rise to tho eunbon
net, assumed in the first Instance merely
beta life it offered more protection for the
eyes than did the cocky little hats. The
golf sunbonnct la a thing of hairt-break-Ing
prMtlness, and It would be taking no
great risk to wager that Its present mis
sion Is (lie purely of heaiitiiicalinn. In
deed, it is bumetimea a little stagey in its
effects, for the newest shapes are In straw,
somewhat on the old-lady scoop order, and
these are trimmed with mulls and ribbons
In white or brilliant color. Sunbonnets
even prettier, if not so new, are made of
white or tinted lawns, after the shirred
models which piniiantly frame the face of
the fashionable country child of today.
Conventional golf headgear takes all the
Jaunty shapes displayed by "ready-to-wear"
millinery, but the small sailor nnd the
quill-trimmed "Tarn" are favorite styles.
The sailor may be cither simply banded or
decked with flowers and mull. Quite as
many women play golf bareheaded as with
heads covered. It only depends on how
long one has been at the game, and by the
newness and correctness of her get-up is
the novice known.
A ' swagger dress recently worn on the
links consisted of the usual dark skirt
and contrasting shirt waist. Made of black
French broadcloth, the side pleats of the
skirt were stitched at the edges In the
present approved way. The dapper wa'st.
of white wool momie cloth spotted with
red, was cut out nt the neck and finished
flatly with a red embroidered band, end
ing with a stole effect at the front. A red
straw sailor, red shoes and a red leather
bt-.lt completed the get-up.
Many black skirts are seen for golf,
and contrasted with either white or
Should
OT WITHSTANDING the current
eastern idea concerning the char
acteristic woolindss of the wild
west, the fact that San Fran
cisco Is not sufficiently of the
m
Kan
frontier to permit of women walking its
streets in male attire was aptly demon
strated recently when three dashing woman
tourists were made to know the august
majesty of the police authorities because
they had seen fit to discard their skirts and
dainty lingerie for sack suit.
Albeit that the women were chic, that
they were strikingly handsome, even In
flowered vests and derbies, and despite the
Frills of Fashion
Plum color, ruby and poppy shades are
fashionable for millinery use.
leather fobs with metal coin purse for a
pendant represent an attractive novelty.
To the list of mlllnery trimmings has
lately been added straw grapes and other
fruits.
As tops for hat or stickpins rough nug
gets of turquoise have been introduced this
season.
Colors of solf shades and designs of soft
or Indefinite outline are the leading char
acteristics of the zibelines.
Among recent Importations aro green and
blue tartan plaids in small patterns, with
n boucle effect In black yarn.
Small blossoms have the preference as
garniture for hats and fruit plays a con
spicuous part In the ornamentation of
modish toques, turbans and picture hats.
It Is predicted that the ltusslan blouse
Skirted coat with Its Blight pouch In front,
and in a length that reaches almost to the
knee, will make its uppearance in tho early
fall.
White taffeta woolen waists are pretty
and smart. Tht-y are made In different
simple ways, but usually embroidered down
the front in dots or other conventional
designs in the long stitch embroidery.
For the best grade of wrist bags saffian
a species of morocco is the preferred
leather just now ar.d a rich red Is the best
liked color. Uzard, alligator, walrus and
si lion leathers have not altogether lost
prestige and there Is a tendency for leather
coviied handles in place of the familiar
clinins, ihe latter it is claimed proving in
jurious for the glove.
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THINGS WOKN BV THE UIIII. WHO AFFECTS THE
colored waists they are charmingly ef
fective, liut tho skirts in dust colored
covert and those in invisible gray gold
cloth, with which white and colored waists
also combine prettily, are more practical.
Some ready-made pique suits are seen
for golfing purposes These look swpgger
with red accessories, for red is the thing
for the linko this summer. The most vivid
shade of scarlet is the one preferred, which
is positively sparkling against green back
ground. A cloth skirt in this color had a
white shirt to modify it, and a floating
while scarf for the red hat.
Correct golf skirts, If the golfer wishes
to follow the latest caper, are made with
habit backs and fasten at the left hip.
The apron gore is extremely narrow and
put in with plain seams. Instead of the
old double hems, with their Interminable
rows of stitching, the skirt bottom is often
made heavy with Inch-wide tucks placed
close together.
The approved shirt walBt Is in wash
materials. Stout linens and delicately
figured cheviots above all black and white
provide the most stylish effects.
Many old models are seen in the made'
to-order gowns, but the shops stand by the
conventional things, displaying suits with
the Eton coats seen this long while.
Other coats will le in belted blouse shape,
fastening at the left side and sometimes
trimmed there with a border band of some
Women Wear
fact that it was only on Chinatown's streets
that they aired their graces, they were
Ignomlnlously hauled before Captain of De
tectives Martin and Police Chief Wlttman.
Tears In plenty that rolled down the
starched shirt fronts and fascinating
feminine sobs beneath the flowered vests
at last melted even the frigid dignity of
the captains of the law and they allowed
the culprits to escape with a parental
reprimand.
It was a few minutes before 10 o'clock in
the morning when Officer Brown of the
Chinatown squad saw a Jeering crowd of
Chinese kids following a big man and three
For and About Women
Miss Helen Could has arranged to take
thirty poor boys from the slums of Man
hattan to Woody Crest, her home for poor
children, at Irvington, on June IS. Twenty
boys have been kept by her all winter at
her home at Koxbury, in the Caatsklll
mountains.
Through the efTorts of the trained nurses
five states have during the past winter
passed laws fixing regulations for licensing
nurses and conferring the title of registered
nurse upon those who have passed certain
educational standards.
Miss Natica Ileeves, a wealthy young
sojourner In Newport, appeared on the I
street there a day or two ago with ribbon- I
bound hair hanging down her back. Home I
tuiiir young women or ine swell set nave
followed suit nnd the style bids fair to be
come general for the hot weather.
Miss Thompson, teacher of philosophy at
Mount llolyoke college, after two years
experimenting with twenty-five young men
and twenty-live young women, has decided
that the former are more emotional than
the latter. The test is hardly a fair one.
As between the two sexes, the emotional
initiative has to be taken by the young
men.
Miss Anna lilng of Kansas City was sent
ss u missionary to Japan some years ago
lo see whether It was possible to Introduce
music in the mission Reboots with success.
Though encountering many difficulties Miss
King has linally succeeded in creating much
Inlcrot among the Japanese In music as
she teaches It. One Japanese girl, as a te
stilt of her efforts, is now in the New Eng
land Conservatory of Muaio.
U'JKAU
sort. A border at the left Bide of the skirt
repeats this, nnd the turn-over cuffs of the
sleeves may display the same trimming.
Nobody sa3 unything about the golf
pet tl '(Kit. There Is a good reason why.
The golf petticoat does not exist, wasl
silk bloomers having taken Its place, to
the Increased comfort and satisfaction of
everybody concerned. 3"hese nre Invariably
In the color of the skirt worn, with flounc
ing frills sometimes put below the knee to
simulate a petticoat. However, there are
more golf bloomers without tho petticoat
frills than there are with them.
The girl with truo sporting blood In her
veins grows Indifferent lo such smalt things
as old-fashioned traditions, for the time
was when a woman could not go without
her petticoat and be a woman still. An
occasional glimpse of the feminine leg Is
not a sin nowadays, ony more than It Is
a sin to see a plump young figure entirely
without corsetc
Apropos of corsets, a pretty and com
fortable one for sporting purposes gets a
hint from the boned linen waists that our
grandmothers fashioned. The lower part
In In distinct corset cover shape, but the
straps which go over the shoulders nre of
French tape elastic. Elastic gussets. In
serted over the hips, insure further enso of
movement. For slight figures no more
desirable stays than these could be advised
for summer occasions. MART DKAN.
Trousers
dainty little gentlemen on Dupont near
Sacramento street. He investigated and
found that beneath the brown derbies of
the delicate young men coils of hair wore
massed and high-heeled shoo. peeped from
beneath the trousers hems. Promptly sum
moning a hack, discreet OffWr Brown took
the gentleman nnd his three chic com
panions down to tho hall of Justice.
"What does this mean?" said Captain
Martin in his severest tones.
"If it please your honor," said one of
the nattily clad figures between sobs, "I
am from Chicago und my friends are from
El Paso, and we had heard that it is al
ways customary for women to dress this
way when they do Chinatown."
There was a pitiful tremor In the dulcet
tones, which struck to the chivalrous heart
of the captain of detectives. He consulted
at length with Chief Wlttman and at la-st,
with a bless-ynu-my-chlldren smile, the
chief dismissed the trembling women and
their equally perturbed escort.
To avoid the Inquisitive newspaper men
the hack, awaiting In the court of the hall
of Justice, was quickly entered and the
horses whipped up Kearney street at a mad
rata
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V' mil in im l,i,,r1
Sold by Druj'jtrttt or
may tt ordtred direct.
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