Mannish Effects Banished from Neckwear
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DUCllKsia LACK CUlL,Ail WHICH GIVES THE IXNQ 8HOUL.DKR EFFECT.
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EW YORK, Jun 13. The choice
of neckwear is a- sure Indication
of tasto and an Item of dresa
potent to make or mar a cos
tume. The most charming coif
fure, the inuat artistoci alio features and
the most delicately rose-tinted complexion
may be coarsened by the Juxtaposition of
slipshod neck arrangement. On the other
hand, a dainty stock can redeem an en
tire toilette from the crime of mediocrity.
Even the woman whose tastes incline to
ward masculine cut and finish in her gar
ment cannot resist the attractions of
dainty neckwear. The eternal fetnlnlce
asserts Itself In spite of education or en
vironment. The business woman who Is forced by
reason of economy or the rules of prac
ticability to adopt the pluinest of garb,
finds In the stock her only outlet for the
love of the beautiful. With hur, too, the
taste for high, mannish, linen collars
aeenis to have passed away with the styles
of other seasons. The only stiff linen col
lars which the shops nro showing are low
affairs with a turnover. Often this is
broken Into roundtd tabs, or ornamented
by a line of hemstitching or openwork em
broidery. The old-time stiffness is entirely
lost. A morning walk along the boule
vards shows tliut even these collars ore
worn with thin, fluffy wash ties of linen
and lawn. The effect is decidedly feminine.
Cuffs come to match these linen collars,
and they are suitable for either morning or
shopping wear. The touch of white at
wrist and throat relieves the monotony of
the one-tone linen costumes. Often the
cuffs and collar are stitched In color te
match the gown. The effect Is very good
and carries out the idea so much sought
after this sesHon that every article of a
toilette has been made with the distinct
purpose of matching. The rule Is an old
and valuable one In 1'urla, where the
humblest grtsette knows how to Impart In
dividuality to her everyday dress. One
tone costumes, with perfect matching or
skillful contrast of colors. Is her maxim.
Her example is now being followed by the
women of every nation, and this summer
brings the stock particularly under Its
sway.
White Is the most fashionable color for
the summer stock, although colors are
also used. Hut In the latter cases the
stock or collar la only Intended for use
with a particular gown.
A wealth of handwork Is expended on
the white stocks and collars. Drawn work.
Ince applique and Insertion and hand em
broidery make them things of beauty.
In the all white collar and ruff sets per
haps the simplest are bands of fine linen
hemstitched on all sides. The Inner apace
Is often entirely filled by a drawn work
pattern. Beautiful models are coming front
Mexico and clever fingers are Imitating
them In all countries. Thee are Intended
to te worn over plain storks and cuffs of
the dress material. They are kept In place
by snail pins of gold or silver, which come
In sets of three for the purpose. The leas
conspicuous the pm the better.
Equally simple linen and lawn collars
A MKXICAN HANDWORK TURNOVER IS EFFECTIVE OVER A BLACK STOCK.
cuffs which are In some color or embroid
ered in color. Care must be taken that
the color suits the color scheme of the
gown with which thry are to be worn.
An effective hand embroidered collar and
cuff set has a belt to match. The founda
tion Is of a heavy white linen. The hand
embroidery takes the form tf dots, em
broidered in a solid color. The belt has
an inconspicuous harness buckle of gilt.
French cambric forms the foundation of
an extremely dainty collar and cuff set.
collira and cuffs are oddly curved in art
nouvenu desiKns, with the edges button
holed in white. They are finely worked
with sprays of shamrock in the natural
colors. Other sets are ornamented with
forget-me-nots, violets and buttercups.
For tho linen colored gown nothing Is
prettier than hand-made collars and cuffs
of heavy blue or ecru canvas. They are
oddly shaped and are button-holed and em
broidered in heavy tlax thread. Other
dainty ecru colored collars and cuffs are
of grass linen embroidered in white and
colors in small flower designs.
Real cr imitation Bulgarian embroidery
is very effective on the canvas collars.
Coarse thread in bright blues, reds and
greens is used. It also forms a striking
means of ornamenting the turnover col
lars of natural colored pongee. Silver and
gold threads are also Introduced with good
effect. A pongee collar Is embroidered with
butterflies, whtse wings flash all colors
and cleam with silver and gold.
White silk forms the foundation of many
of the daintiest turnovers. It lends Itself
readily to drawn work, applique or em
broidery. A pretty white silk cross tie has
embroidered sky spots outlined with black.
It has n fine Point de Venise border and
ends. A white Kiik turnover which extends
In a long tab down the front Is embroid
ered in a spray design of wisteria In
natural colors. Others have clusters of
fruit cherries, grapes or atruwbr nies.
A STRIKING STOCK OF SATIN FOLDS AND LACE.
and cuffs have fine pleats for their only
ornamentation. On some the fine pleats
run straight up and down, on others they
run around the collar, and still again they
are arranged diagonally. Pleated effects
obtain In the fine lawn "judge" collar.
The long "Judge" atole la finely pleated.
Small white pearl or linen crocheted but
tons make an effective garniture between
the pleats.
These "Judge" collars are but a recent
outgrowth of the popular atole collar. In
fact the atole forms the motif of nearly all
the summer collars. It Is modified In shape
and multiplied indefinitely to such good
purpose that one woman may be possessed
of an almost Innumerable number of stocks
and collars without having a single dupli
cate. The crate for roarse mesh laces, which
has pervaded every other article of dresa,
seems powerless in the realm of neckwear.
If real laee la shaped Into a turnover or
atock It la of the finer thread varieties.
Point de Venlse la a favorite for the turn
vers. Man of the lace stocks are coav
tlnued down In tabs and points to give the
effect of a shallow yoke. This fashion does
away with the neck line and will prove
a boon to the woman with the short neck.
A still further development of the lace
collar Is the deep round or pointed yoke
collars which are attached to a standing
collar. They give the long shouldered ef
fect, which must be attained at all costs.
Sometimes they are woven In one piece
of Point de Venlse, guipure or Van Dyck
laces. More often they are hand-made
from strips of lace Insertion, Joined by
fagotting or other fancy stitching. A
pretty effect Is obtained by using colored
silk for the fagotting or stitching.
These deep cape collars, whether they
have a standing collar or not, are useful
for turning a decollete waist into one
suitable for street wear, In which case
they are fastened up the back with fancy
pins, or the collar may only serve its
original purpose of adornment, and then
la merely fastened at the throat In front.
French cambric, canvas, lawn and linen
form the foundations of those collars and
A ikin of bvtutrj U a Jvy fortver.
DR.T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL
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Statea aud Europe.
FERD. T. IIOI'KIXs, Prop'r.
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ORPHIIIE-OPlUr.1
aad LA UDANl'S HABITS nml by a
pelaliw aueaa Imilnnel. nlnru.H xml
Seed by leaMllag pkyaleiaaa. A truU
treatment aumotaai to ooBue you, aeni free ua
not ad imuiieli la aaeiae. Oarraapack-- f ' MaA,
auVa4.AAA,A M tt Jt, ii. Chicago. I1L