What is Going On in Woman's World of Fashion
EV YORK, Juno 5. Always a fas
cinating garment, the new negli
gee Is now more Hum ever u r
suaslvc. Of the mofl tiopicai tint
sea grttu, mist gray, or nnc of
the many shades of white It Is ephemeral
in quality and Indescribably feminine in
line.
In this soft feminine essence lies the
chief charm of a. I the dainty foldcrols
fashion has designed for mmmcr boudoir
use. These garments have always ex
pressed some such appealing; sentiment.
When a graceful gown is in white tho
poetic feeling of the new designs Is also
marked, especially If the sleeves are wtda
and flowing, as many of them are. In fact.
In thin department, as In all the others of
dress, everything Is done to enhance the
charms of the fair, and new gowns destined
for the most cloistered use radiate with a
delicate coquetry
No matter whether the things have been
fashioned with an eye to a man's apprecia
tion or not, they strike the gentle note a
man loves. Somewhere on the staircases
of smart country homes, through the cracks
of doors supposed to he closed, it Is quite
safe to assume that his henrt will be glad
dened by the sight of them. For, after all,
who does sweet woman dress for but man?
The :iberty silks employed for many of
the most picturesque of tTie tea-gowns are
tn colors as exquisite as novel. "Horten
sia" Is the title given to n delicate shade
of violet. In one Greek model this shade
was trimmed with I, narrow border band
In polil and purple. The Greek look of this
was obtained by the square cut and flat
treatment of the neck, and by the addition
of a opium Jacket disposed over the gown
proper, which hung from the shoulders
with a closely gathered fulnes-. The flow
ing sleeves, which were shortest at the in
side arm. fell with Greek simplicity, and
the bordering band was disposed around
the ed'ie of the peplum.
Som empire ff"cts are seen among the
dressier of these gowns, and not a few
have soft mill! fichus, -which becomingly
drape open necks, and tie at the hack of
the waist In regulation fichu fashion.
One exquisite "slip robe," as the unique
dc3lgn waj called, revealed the pnss-IblliMcs
of yellow in a marvellous blending of a half
a dozen shades of this color.
All the tints which lie between the palest
maize and wall-fiower ye'low, were used,
and the gauzy silk manipulated In a way
to appear 3haded. Hanging from the t boul
ders in the usual tea-gown way, this dis
tracting garment fell from neck to hem In
Lole Fuller pleats, which is the French
name for the finest made.
Gowns in soft wools, destined for wear
at cool resorts, are often lined with soft
gauze silks in contrasting colors, or white.
A very tender and becoming shade of sago
green is to be observed in some of these,
as well as a magnificent shade of liberty
red called tho "Morris."
A certain Inndon firm is more successful
than any other firm in the world in the
matter of artistic dyes, and the best of
American negligee models come from Its
establishment. The colors they employ owe
their beauty to Willhim Morris and other
gifted poets and artists, and nmre
than one tea-gown is an exact
copy of some classic robe In a
well known picture. With definite picture
effects, rich colors and stuffs are sometimes
combined with jeweled girdles and clasps,
producing gorgeous results, for the rose
gems and unique settings used by the firm
are highly effective. When a gown is shown
off, the living model assumes the neck
chain, belt, or bracelet which should be
worn with It, with the result that the jew
elry Is sold as well as the garment.
Some delightfully simple gowns Bent over
by these people, and copied here in domestic
tuffs, are in two or three shades of thin
silk, one forming the garment, the others
the trimming. The sleeves of these are
Jarge unlined puffs-though, in fact, no part
of such gowns are lined three-quarter
length, and finished chiefly with a narrow
cuff band. Others have a shaped fall of
silk for the sleeve finish, which Is repeated
by a capelike flounce around the cutout
neck.
Only upon house garments of a preten
tious nature is lace employed, and the neck
and sleeve frills of the silk used instead
Bhow only modest edges of selvage.
Next tn Importance to the picturesque tea
gown is the cofTee jacket, which presents
an appearance a little less careless. If we
may employ the word. Many smart women
are now wearing this dainty litt'.e garment,
which runs to unnumbered furlielows in
lace and ribbon with skirts that match it
in elegance Instead of the full length gar
ment. Constituting an effect more "ad
Justed," as the French put It something
more of a look of fit the cofTee jacket may
be worn on less Intimate occasions than
are required by negligee models.
Many very pretty coats are seen In the
shops, but a woman with the knack of the
needle will do well to fashion hers at home,
as ready-made fineries are always expen
sive. It is only the indispensable garments
sanctioned by custom and provided in large
numbers which are cheap.
In form the approved coffee or tea-coat
Is a sort of flouncing bodice. It is only
waist length, with deep lace embroidery
frills falling from square, pointed or round
I IN
yoke effects. The sleeves are elaborately
picturesque, generally falling away from
bare nuns to disclose dimples uiul bracelets.
The neck Is cat out as much a. propitcty
ami nfternoi n will allow.
A!l the soft silks, batistes and nets In the.
market may bo used for them, and If the
tea-pouring Is a modest occasion the sim
plest batistes may be employed.
A toilet y girl who Is to summer nt the
seashore has provided her3elf with three
charming cofTee jackets, which cost all
told $6. They are made of striped dimity
In pale yellow, aznlta pink and azure white
point d'esprlt. The trimming Is edging at
8 cents the yard. It Is put on the edges of
the frills, which are in clusters at the
top, ami this butterfly prettlness is worn
with white duck and pique skirts. The
girl cnl'.s her delicious and Inexpensive
finery "hot weather duds." For f out wear
she has bought Ingllsi pnndals of tnn
leather. Remember these wonderful foot
coverings if you have small feet to shoe,
for no healthier shoes can be found In tho
world. In the most pretentious quarters of
London elegantly dressed children go by
with the bare skin of their small feet only
covered by sandal straps, and their legs
entirely bare. These snndals are sold at
several of the good shops in New York.
Some Timely
ON'T exited chllilren to be beall-
B I tlful unless healthy, happy and
I fnhlnnlc.1 This Ititlied. ifoes far
towards making thein lovely.
Don't think too much time can
be devoted to physical development. In
nothing is it of more importance to take
time by the forelock.
Don't let children sit without support of
their backs; and encourage them to rest
their spines by lying back in a chnlr. Onne
a day make both boys and girls lie fiat on
the floor for half an hour. This will make
fine figures.
Don't give el-ildren chairs that are soft
and low In the middle, or their necks will
be certain to sink within their shoulders,
and their figures become distorted.
lHm't let them sit still too long at a
time; if they do, they will fidget, move
restlessly from side to side, and take at
titudes which may make them grow
crooked.
Don't let a stooping lesson, such as writ
ing or drawing, end without some simple
arm exercise.
Don't have, heavy curtains at bedroom
windows; let the sunshine pour In.
Don't paper bedroom walls; paper catches
all floating gases. Finish the wills with
soma non-absorbent material.
Don't have any carpets on the bedroom
floors; use rugs Instead. Have few hang
ing and little bric-a-brac.
Don't let them spend any more time in
the bedroom than la absolutely necessary.
Don't allow a child to sleep with an older
person.
Don't give a child a harsh rub after a
hath. Drying should be dono carefully with
a soft towel; there should be a warm "tub"
in the morning and a quick sponge bath at
night.
Don't comb a child's hair too much.
Brush carefully with a soft brush.
Don't use curling tongs. If locks abso
lutely must be curled in "little sugar
curls" twist them at bedtime on soft
cloths.
Don't think a child can have brightness
of eyes, clearness, softness and smoothness
of skin without good food.
Don't coax a child to eat. Lack of ap
petite often Indicates lack of necessity.
Don't allow a child to grow up with
squinting eyes or crooked teeth. The
scientific treatment of physical defects has
reached a high point of skill, and many of
nature's unkindnesses may be overcome.
N- i Hum viciona valley
I Forge there is located a flouring
I v.m ... , . ..
mui Brmos nearly nil me
wheat raised by the farmers of
the neighborhood. which Is
owied and operated by a girl of "sweet
seventeen," Miss Sallie Furslckler. and all
the patrons declare that she understands
her business as thoroughly as does any
"dusty miller" in the country. Miss For
slckler carries on her business entirely
on her own hook nnd shows much aptitude,
good sense and shrewdness in it. She Is
her own master entirely, makes her own
rules, does her own business, keeps her
own books and carries on her own cor
respondence, obeying nobody's orders but
those of her customers.
The mill she runs is one of several In
those parts which were In existence In
revolutionary days. Washington's soldiers
slept within Its walls and their bread was
often made from the flour It had ground.
It passed Into the hands of Miss Salllc's
grandfather and from him to his son. and
now the son's daughter has It. She played
In the mill as a child and as she grew up
helped her father, and, half unconsciously
and half with thought of the future, learned
the miller's business from him thoroughly.
When he died there was no one else to
carry it on, so Miss Sallie took his place.
For two years now she has operated the
mill and the community likes her and
Hut to return to our muttons -negligee
nnd tho lesser splendors that come under
that head.
Klmona gowns and sacques of crinkled
cotton cr-e nnd plain and llgurcd wools
in s.iuzy quiiiit.es are to be had in all the
shops at moderately low prices. Flowered
and striped wash t ihlmns. in dainty Wnt
toau nnd pompadour designs, border them
prettily around the neck and sleeves, where
such modes are alone trimmed. Philippine
suiting and tiasucs thin cotton weaves
somewhat like cheesecloth in quallty-cotn-jHse
some of the odd klmonas. They are
decorated with bands of a similar material
In a contrasting effect plain bands with
figured textiles or figured borders with
plain bands.
These Imported cottons nre new to the
country, nnd they show the brilliant vege
table dyes employed alone In tho Philip
pines. The rr. t gorgeous yellows, blu-s
and rods wash without losing a tinge of
their brilliancy. Some of the tints, es
pecially a deep blue on the moxarln order,
are Indescribably rich.
Upon coarse straw hats. Intended for
rough country wear, scarfs and bands of
the 1'lillippine tissues arc sometimes seen
Headgear thus decorated Is. of course,
considered very modest, but tho smart
Tips for Up - to -
helps her to get along. She has been a
in I lie r so long i.ow that she is an expert.
She can make good wheat flour us well us
rye flour, and also grinds corn and oats
for tho farmers' horses. She ran even
prepare the ir.iilstor.e-it took yenrs to
leirr. how to do that cutting thirty-two
clean furrows to an Inch, with a fino
sharp feather edge to each. And her mill
Is the cleanest In the valley.
The huge grinding stones, which weigh
nearly a ton each, are lifted with screw
pins when it Is necessary to redress then',
but wielding the sharpened mill picks,
which weigh nearly five pounds apiece,
gives tho young woman a fine pair of
bleeps, which she needs In other branches
of her business.
She puts her flour Into 200-pound sacks
and these she has to gather from the flour
reel, transfer to the scales, weigh them,
sew them and pile them ready for re
moval. 8he doesn't pretond to be an ath
lete, yet she considers It easy to hoist p
three-bushel sack full of rye to the upper
floor of her mill.
Its output, when water is plentiful like
all the mills along the Porkiomen it runs
by water power average 2.000 pounds daily.
I lenities being a thoroughly capable mil
ler. Miss Salliu has won another sort of
reputation In the last year and a half.
The farmers round Hbout consider her an
expert on rye in all its stages from the
seed to the ground product.
She is able to estimate the yield while
the grain is still standing in the field and
f9
Every Piece a Work of Art
The clearness brilliance perfection cf cutting and the
beauty of its exclusive design has made LIBBEY the
standard by which cut glass is judged.
The
name
KXULL'KIVK AUKXT FOR OMAHA
SAMUEL BURNS
A Aln of beauty i a joy forever.
DI.T. FELIX GOUtAllD'S ORIENTAL
CRKA.tt. Oil AtAtjtCAL BEAUIifiEl
P 4 1 J
Hh and 8km Dia-
it mma am IMI
el Bftr fl ramrft.
aod Is m biraliH
tut II It bi
ura It la properly
aoada. Accept b
counterfeit of simi
lar aajna. Dr. !,
I A. Sairre al to a
ladr ol tha haut-
'toa (a patient):
"Aa o laolaa
will uaa them. I
rx.-mmend "COUHA UD'O CHS AM" aa tha l-t
barmlul of all tha akin preparation." Per aala or
all 4ru(lta aad faacjr geoaa aulm la tae (Jelled
talea and Kvroo.
FKltl). T. nOTKITfl. Prop';
Jl Wraat Joaaa fi., Ji, X,
a trzr a i
r a - aa mm ri m y
world has endorsed the Philippine stuff
of all sorts. A dame who might buy and
sell her neighbor wears the gauzy cottons
of the orient. il peasant, while the neighbor
disports herself in t tv? silks and satin
which are supposed to Indicate gentility.
Another hot weather wrinkle comes from
the Philippines In the tdiapo of bedroom
v' I I ers. In that land of perpetual suu
iv.ito. ladles of exalted station think noth
ing of going out with bare feet thrust Into
slippers, without heel or heel piece. These
slippers are held on merely by the v.nnp,
Which ends in a blunt point. They are
spelled "t 'luinlles" and pronounced quite
differently. Those worn by the common
Philippine women nre of coarse car
pet stuffs and gaudy flowered vel
vets, which are warranted to last a life
time. Hut the great lady has her little
"chenille:-." of the finest satins and silks
with rich embroideries of lace medallion
nppllqtied on. Such slippers, and otheis of
his own Invention, the American merchant
now offers for bedroom use In the "dog
days."
One of the Inventions Is a slipper of thin
French kid of correct "chennllle shape" In
delicate pastel shades. These make a
charming accompaniment tn a gown of the
same color. MA It Y 1 J 10 A N .
l)atc Women
she knows the grades of grain better than
most of her customers.
For and About Women
Mrs. Helen Ames of Huston. Miss., owns
one of the finest private collections of an
tiques tn that city, and has just added two
old vhiliua, ne Hn Atr.atl of 1641, and tho
other ii Kti adi viii lus of 17 0.
State Insurance Commissioner I.ullng of
Kansas i.-i the first oltl-iiil to appoint n
woman is examiner of Insurance cum
panics. Mrs. M. Wadlelgh, his stenog
rapher, left today for San Francisco to ex
amine the assets of a company. liler she
will look into the affairs nf other Insurauco
companies doing business In Kansas.
Mrs. James It. Hnpley of P.ucyrus, ().. Is
ihe only woman who has been given a place
upon tiie centennial program commemorat
ing the P.tlli aimlvers.il y of the udiiilxslon of
Ohio to the union. The theme of her ad
drew will be '"I ho Value of Good Women In
Influencing Civilisation." Mrs. Hopley is u
former president of the Ohio Federated
clubs.
Governor Garvin of Ilhode Island has p. t
himself on record as a believer In woman
suffrago in a recent address before the
Rhode Islnnd Woman Suffrage association
he said: "I think woman suffrage will Im
adopted In Rhode Inland and in other New
Knglund states. It has been tried In other
states and has worked well and sooner or
later It will prevail throughout the union."
In that most fashionable of all cities, Vi
enna, a reform in women's dress In In full
swing. Its first requirement, the throwing
away of corsets, has been Indorsed by some
fashion magazines that print sketches of
"reform" toilets, which are said to suggest
dressing gowns, and women with pretension
to style wear them to concerts, public as
semblies and on the street. Another set
wear fashionable gowns, but do without the
cornet, which seems the better taste.
CUT
The World's Best
engraved tn every piece.
1318 FARNAM ST.
lemmjtoYtii
.Daarca Pare, Soft, WbiteSkIa
sad Biaotiful Complexion,
cnn r.ecams a4 Tatfar. Ah
aololi-lf and t'arraacaiitlr
' remowa Illackhaada. Frec
; kin, I'irjiDloa, liednesa. Him
.r i apotl ami TD. b'aed wltt
. ' i. . i a - i .
' ; A'... nm-A. i.jwia oftvp 4 C (
"j fact akin la insured.
001a Dy orogjirt.
may ba ordered dlrtot.
nerma-Boyaln, $1 p- bolU. ripraai palif.
Uormavltoyala Soap, 5 cent a, by mall
UoU. la oaie patrkaga, f I.S3, express pavltl
I Portraits aid Testimonials tent on request, ,
One Dottle FREE to Agents.
THE IH.ltH A BOTAI.K CO.. riral-tswtl. K
TWENTIETH CENTURY FARMER
Kent Aj-.rlcuHoral Weekly.
