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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (May 24, 1903)
Lace Riots on Summer Waists and Gowns NTTK wise woman bat lone consid ered bar lares to be as precious m ber Jewels, a never-falling source Of beauty. Bat no nutter bow Ju diciously she has bought. how care fully aha has hoarded, this summer will overtax ber resources. Bhe can make us f every scrap of real lace she possesses and still need snore, for two or three kinds are bow frequently bring used on one gown tone. If aha does not possess a Ions; purse she will be forced to fall back on the Imitation lares. To her delight she will find that th Imitations are so excellent that their au thenticity Is seldom questioned. Thus reas sured, she may trim erery dress with lace. Bad lace, and more lace. Although every sort of lure Is used, the summer has its favorite. Valenciennes Is no longer the power which It used to be, for there is a reaction against Ihe sheerer laces. No doubt the heat of the dog days will make it seem mors delectable. Even ow It Is charming on some of the flow ered organdfea. It Is extTffve'y laser-tod on the lawn waists, and even on the white Japanese silk blouses, but it recalls last year's style too vividly to please the smart On lingerie It still holds Its own, although even In these fields 'joarser laces arerlvals. Point d Venise, Paraguay and torchon are used on the sheerest fabrics with pleas Ins effect. The different varieties of silk lace are far prettier for the si'Jc blouses. The shop Windows are full of cuffs, collars, capes and stoles of Maltese lace. They are so Sill arming that to sea them Is either to IIC ... ........ to t Ian, 1 I chiffon and moussetine flounces, make up this year's parasols for spring and summer use furnah so soft and lovely a frame for the face that every girl longs to possess one or mors of them. But an up-to-date parasol cannot be indulged in by the woman of lender means unless she can procure it la some other way than by purchase. Many have parasols left over from last year which probably show wear about the center of the top. In white and colored parasols thla Is almost sure to be the case and the outer ribs and inner fold often abow streaks as well. Buch parasols, which are ri'U good enough tor use and are too good to throw away, can be made la the latest styles with on outlay of some time and perhaps a little If the parasol to be treated Is of colored Ilk, suitable for street use, cover the center of the top. with a straight band of ilk, put on In a, circle and shirred several tlmea to fit at the stick, leaving about an Inch of the silk free to form a frill about the stick. If preferred, a bow of ribbon can be tied there. The edges should be fastened down with one of the popular Wins Wealth FTKR ten years of service as housekeeper at the Waldorf Astoria hotel In New York, Mrs. Kate Sewering has Just retired to Drivate life with anouarh mnnpv saved from the emoluments of her position to maintain her In comfort for the re mainder of her life. Mrs. Sewering has long been a conspicuous figure around the famous hostelry. It has been said of her that she probably knew more millionaires than any other woman In New York city. It hi through vigilance, readiness of re source and tact that the many prominent guests have largely owed the comforts they "Joy- That this fact was thoroughly appreciated Is evidenced by the many flat tering offers Mrs. Sewering has had to leave the hotel for a private mansion. One of those most desirous of securing her ser rice was Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt th alder, who wrote to her from Europe. But Mrs. 8ewerlng preferred to remain at the hotel, where ahe has been since Its opening, as the head of a staff of TOO. com prising the chambermaids, parlor maids, Frills of Fashion White chip lecture hats trimmed with Mack velvet ribbon and red or pink roses r in high favor. Many of the loosely fitting coats are of .? f ewJu"BO" "i,k richJ aarnlahed with Blouses are being built very often In quite plain designs and sre intended to be worn with the stole collars. A distinctly elegant gown Is of oyster white doth with a sun-ray skirt and Hun garian embroideries in green and mauve. KIbow sleeves characterise many of the saualia bodices, and one sees gaugbigs on almost every other skirt. Ab evening gown of the new cornflower shade in tulle was finished with a btlt of black taffeta and a deep ecru and bluck A decorative pin cushion la made of a bow and ends of sat la ribbon five inches wide and snatching th geoeral color ton covet or to buy. While they appear to best advantage on the thin silk waists, they are largely used M fine lawns, mulls and batistes. Their soft creamy tone contrasts pleasingly either on white or on any of the more delicate summer shades. But the heavier laces are the most popu lar. They combine most fittingly with the heavy linens and other mercerised fabrics now so fashionable. The Cluny and an tique laces are en rag! on almost every style of gown and on almost every ma terial. 'They are marveJously imitated at a cost which brings them within the reach of every purse. In spite of the coarseness of their thread, they are so open as to give a cobweb effect. Many of the lace waists are nnule of strips of antique Insertion sewed together. They ore extremely plain, as if fearful that ornamentatioa would detract from the beauty of the lace. Ihey are generally worn over a silk slip in white or some con trasting color, but midsummer will find them unllned. The woman who has dainty lingerie will have need of It, for the average waist Is literally a cobweb. Special corset covers made with little fullness mill give a more slender effect to the figure. 1 A pretty waist on this order was made of alternate strips of aide and narrow In sertion, giving the effect of a pattern In stripes. These waists are sometimes orn amented with narrow stitched bands of white silk. On one waist the short vertical bands ending at the bust give a yoke effect. Each How to Remodel Old Parasols fancy stitchea or an edging of braid imi tating some fancy stitch. Inside the edge an irregular border, formed of several color of French knots. Is pretty. The knots, or whatever de:orx tion the applied top baa, about 1 bi put on before it is fastened to the parasoL Tuck a band, from two to four inches In w d'h. of the same sort of silk that focnu the top circle, and edge it with the braid or stitch ing which has been used at the top. Thla trims the edge of the parasol. A tow of th same color may trim the hand'e. Blue, green, white, light ecru, red and nickel gray are favorite colors for parasol borders. Of these white is the favor to. In refurbishing aa old parasol a color must be used that does not make the milertal of the parasol look old. Another way to trim a paravnl U with a flat, fitted circle over the top. decorated with circles about the aise of a dollar. 'Worked with Oriental colorj In chiia stitch or French dots. These can be pur chased, ready made, by th yard. The same disks scattered over parasols aro fashionable. Where the parasol has streaks on the ribs and inner folds, aa inch-wide bind of' silk can be stitched or frilled over the streaks. In this case the border of tho as Housekeeper seamstresses, laundry clr'.L and housemen. While other hotels ordered their upholstery supplies front without Mrs. Sewering pre ferred to have cushions made on the prem ise and kept a large force of sewing women' employed. Her assist an la presented to ber a diamond ring valued at $300 in token of their regret at her departure. Bora in Ireland, Mrs. Sewering was brought to this country When an infant and made her home during the earlier part of her life In Brooklyn. Her husband was an architect, who left her a young widow with one child. It was over the death of this child soon after that her brown hair turned white and her friends believed her grief Incurable. It was some time after that she associated herself with Manager Boldt. In every large function, the Bradley Martin ball and Mrs. Clarence Mackaya fate, at the Waldorf-Astoria the house keeper's hand baa been vial bin. On the ssnny side or X Mrs. Sewering retires with a competence. or the room. It Is Intended to hang be akle the dressing table and different varie ties of pins are arranged in an orderly way on the loops and ends. Pale blue, mauve and rose tints are lead ing fa von lea in linen, batiste and other wash fabrics. Black lace medallion encrusted upon white lace or white medallions of a differ est and finer kind of lace than that of the foundation are details which give a finish asd refinement to deep collars. A pleasant variation of the cape collar is the lace fichu cut deep behind, with tapering ends to the waist. This corsage finish is also seen made of the aims ma terial as the bodice, with tnserUooa and easing of lac. Chiffon gathered and plaited and deco rated with petals of silk, or spots of che nille, or lines of ribbon velvet run through insertions of lace make some elaborate deep cape collars. There is a renewal of favor thla season for the old-fashioned Yak lace, that coarse m finished by a white silk cord and tasseL Similar strips are en the upper half of th sleeve, which is tight-fitting. Below the el bow the sleeve falls away In a huge puff. The narrow ruff is also banded with th ilk. On another waist the stile-hod silk In braid-like effect is appliqued la scroll de signs. Heavy Irish lace, eitaer In Insertion or all-over. Is used not only for waists, but also for coats. It Is the right weight for us on the thin wool fabrics as well as with lighter silks. It Is often made up without either lining or trimming. The lace Is elegant enough to stand alone. Irish lace is used In the latest develop ment of the skirt coat. The blouse proper has a French hack end a slightly nouvhed front. It has a high collar finished with a shell-like lace, which matches the all-over. The sleeves are only moderately tight-fitting and widen out into a alight puff above the cuff. The cuffs are narrow and edged with an Inserting similar to that used on the collar. The metn feature of the coat Is the skirt. It Is deep and flaring, edged with the lace. Its particular attribute Is that It is detachable. In a moment the coat can be changed to a waist and vice versa. The amount of band work displayed on some of these lace waists Is remarkable, and often faggoting gives the effect of lace. A dainty blouse of pale blue mousse line Is cut into leaf-shaped pieces which are faggoted together. Th yoke and standing collar are of oddly Inserted ba tiste bun. No lining Is used. A chiffon parasol is usually finished with the same border or frill. Checked, striped and figured ribbons are much used for this style of trimming. 11 li J ribbon 1 can be use! with good effect on plain color founda tions. A white or ecru parasol trimmed in this manner has beads of white or eoru lace galloon, or gathered chiffon, extending from the center to the border of th parasol, where flounces of lace over chiffon are ap plied. Appliques of lac are scattered over the parasol, one or more In each panel, according to the sise. Around the stick of the parasol, at the top. to laid a circle of shirred chiffon, with or without a bit of lace spplique. A flat circle of lace. In stead of chiffon caa be used for this pur- Whit trimming Is popular upon ecru, and the bitter color la lace is stylish upon white. Another fad of the day Is to trim white parasols with black lae or fancy bl irk stitching. A woman who cannot afford laco trim ming for a paras! can work in coxrs embroidery silk upon white bands, a wide herringbone, or feather stitch stripe with borders of French knots. She can also make disks of the same and apply the kind of decoration which was much in ogue some years ago. It is boing used upon the iigiit spring woolens, and also upon linen dresses, being dyed to tho same color as the material. For and About Women Mrs Isabel Beecher Albert, a grandnlnca .of Henry Ward Ueecher. has Just made her appearance on the lecture platform. Miss Elisabeth W. Martin, whose stories for children were widely known. Is dead. She wss a cousin of Samuel I. Clemens and Colonel Henry Watterson. A number of men has been Invited to ad dress the coming meeting of the New York City Federation of Women's club., which fact has moved Mrs. LJUie Deveraux Blake to indignation. "Men are talking too much," quoted Mrs. Blake, "and ere are becoming the silent sex. They are forever talking In pulpits, on platforms and in legislative assrmbiiea. It is not necessary that w should provide further opportunities for them." Mrs. Kllen Bnencer Mussey, dean of the Washington CoDege of Ijw nt Washington, D. C, is one of the ablest lawyers In the United States. She is the daughter of Piatt R. Spencer, author of the Spencerian sys tem of penmanship, and was associated with her father in law practice. Mr a. Mussey was intrumental In securing from congress the bill giving mothers in the IHstrict of Columbia the same right in the children as the fathers; aim giving married women th right to do business and to con trol their own earnings. A few days ago Baroness Burdett-Coutts celebrated ber eighty-ninth birthday. Lady Burdett-Coutts is one of the most interest figures of modern times. Her schemes of philanthropy. In which she has been ably seconded by ber American-born husband, have been many and various and she has given immense sums to charity. In many respects Lady Hurdett-Coutts Is extraor dinarily converativ and it is said lo be owing to her wish that the partners and employes at Coutts' are ail cleaa shaven. By a vote of twelve to three Mr. Alma A. Wllliston. a woman doctor, has been appointed municipal physician by th town council or rniuipsuurg. Warren countr. N. J. Her rivals were the two former physicians, whose salary was 114 a year. Ir. Witiistoa will draw (art). Ia addtUon the council will provide her with an automobile and will allow her II 00 for medi cine. She claims to be an immune and declares that she has no dread of typhoid fever, diphtheria or smallpox. Dr. Willis ton is probably the first woman doctor to be employed by municipal authorities to MW Jersey. ruffle, which lines the mouth of th wta bell sleeves, gives grace to hand and wrist. Th bell sleeves are unusual, the puff below the elbow generally being caught Into a cuff. Another waist on which much hand work has been expended Is a combination of chiffon, faggoting and vegetable lace. Th IwvMoe la entirely of hand work. It Is formed of Inch-wide circles of white chif fon. Joined together by faggoting and In terwoven with vegetable lace. The shallow yoke, which extends over the sleeves In the popular broad-shoulder effect. Is en tirely made of the chiffon circles. 80 Is the collar. The blouse below Is of tho lace, al though a chain of the circles outlines the bust. Tho sleeves are capped with th lac and are of chiffon closely shirred to the el bow. Below this they fall in a puff of chif fon, on which tho clrclos aro appliqued Ir regularly. They are again shirred above the deep cuff of the circles. Renaissance lace Is still used for th open mash waist, but It seldom appears without a lining of silk or chiffon. It has too little tiody and crushes too easily Into a shapeless mass to have much uso other than that of an Insertion. It Is particu larly dainty when made up over chiffon. The sleeves In most cases aro entirely of the chiffon, though baps of the renaissance . lace are pretty. The lower half of the sleeve takes the form of a puff. Chiffon lends Itself readily to this style and though It Is far from serviceable, no woman will consider her summer wardrobe complete unless It Includes a lace and chiffon waist, HARRIET HAWJ.KT. bands and dinks to the parasol. If th scheme of decoration is black snd white, shaded effects can be produced In th disks by making the knots on one side fewer In number and smaller than on the other. It light blue, pink, green or yellow em broidery silk Is used, several shades should be employed and the border ot th parasol should be wider. The spools or Bilk are only three cents apiece, and a parasol worked with coarse silk Is as pretty ns It Is stylish. A frill ot net. cheap lace, chif fon or quilled ribbon Is attractive on th edge of a parasol made over with fancy stitching and appliques of disks. It Is a fad to line parasols of black, whit or colors with a contrasting color of plain or figured liberty silk, chiffon or gause, shirred in. Sometimes the shirred lining is only a wide band. In pompadour colors, set In the lower part of the parasol. In any case, the effect of the soft shirring and colors against the face Is ho charm ing that the style Is ' worthy of imita tion. Another hint to the woman of small means Is to buy plain silk parasols as cheaply as possible and apply her own trimming. The difference In the price of such a parasol trimmed at homo and one trimmed In the shops makes the small amount ot labor involved well worth while. A al ia of benuls i$ a Joy fortwer. DI.T. FCLIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM. 02 MAG1CAI KFAiiriciBB Kaaaeva Taa, Plmplaa. rracklaa. Mala Patch, -x naaa aa Bkia nil ' aa inrj "yr'ia aa tear, j- 1 wwun. ffVl JJ f aft,-w rais. .1 I K 11 aaa la aa harmlaaa1 we taau M U ka ear U la prsparlr . Aatcpt a maufwi 01 anal-: tar pan. Or. W A. Sayr Bald ta lad W ta haul. 'toa (a aaUeat): I "A re Uaiaa rill W f "fimiH AIIIYB flUUH l banalal ot ail tba akla araaaratuma. For ami, ay ail arucftat aa lane? gcxxU daalara la tha liaHai statae a4 garopa. nCRD. T. UOFKIM, Prop'r. I Oraat Jaaas a. H T Turn tetan Psrt.Saft, Walt SUa asd Bcaatifal CaiapUxWn, J9i V- rea gnsaaaa sad TWtter. Ab soiaaalr and raraaanaatly 1 1 laaaaia maciniani, in, ktaa, rinpiaa, kadaaaa. Ban apot 4 Taa. llaad with spat a4 Taa. Caad with) Danaa-aVoraia Boa a r fast aaia at iasara. tohJ by Brer?, t aaay k artarm sirwta aid. yaA ateaap, B a last a. by suOla . iWvaid mmd jafhaaasiaf atmtm vgmtit. One Bottle FREE to Agents yjUl lram bTTAU CO, C-latra-MaU. A- EvD nnnnfrip..npmri Ul I aa LAtmAWCM HABITS atird by a and a d fcy iaavatag paiyafa.ia.iie. A trial naai jaa, aaae rre an laairJBtl sift V' Wr-V a mm . w D i 1 1 J V-
