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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (May 17, 1903)
What is Going On in Woman's World of Fashion -ft "A 7 m J S 5r.r-:7 Mw !il 1 "4 -v. t BUTTERFLY HOW8 OP CHANQBAHUK UIBHON MAKK A IHES3 HAT. KW TfOKK, May 15. It mum be ad mitted that the general trend of fashion la toward lavish display. Never were so many precious laces worn more profusely; never were chiffons and grenadines such works of art as they are- now, with their painted and embroidered figures; and never 'were hats bigger or more burdened with brilliant flowers. With It all there are enough modest and sensible designs in the Held to antlsfy the less florid In taste, and some of these, in their perfect finish and exquisite correct ness of detail, strike an even more elegant note than do ttao extravagant modris. Bom excellent hlnls are also given for the eco nomical employment of short lengths, of stuff, for one frock may show as many as three different textures. Perhaps the smartest tailor gowns of the season are those made of mottled cheviot and homespun, In models composed of a plaited Skirt and long coat All the shades of white, pearl, oyster, blue, gray and cream are seen In the materials used for . these costumes, whose pipings are of the black, blue, green or brown, of the mot tling. White, and black Is conslOei-ed the most swagger combination, and the most popular coat, which Is very loose at the front, belts Into the figure at the back. Such suits, and others fitting more tightly, will 'be worn all summer at resorts whose tempera ture permits their weight. The skirts are unlined, and, instead of the attached drop, some of them are worn over the regulation Ilk petticoat, which is made only a little longer for this accommodation. A neat suit of black and white Scotch homespun has the bodice portion of the closely fitting Jacket In wide side plaits. Fitted Into a pointed yoke these end at the waist, below which the plain tails flare lightly. The trained skirt Is finished with a flounce put on in a novel way and bor dered with plain white cloth. The emtridered linen frock, which Is made up In shirtwaist style. Is the last thing In these rich materials, and many are the stole effects achieved on the bodice and skirt yokes of such gowns. One b'.ue linen frock, machine-braided and embroidered in white, showed stole pieces extending from the bodice yoke down the sleeves In a highly ornamental way. . The ' stoles of the skirt yoke hung straight In front, after the fashion of the Sandwich Islander's apron, and all the tucks were stitched at the edge. Remember this. If you wish to reflect the novelties of fashion first run your Inch-wide tucks by hand, then finish the edges with machine stitch ing. The long. loose coat has. prove Itself too' Indispensable a garment to be abol ished, and so, with details frivolous or severe. It Is here for summer wear. Made of thin French cloth, linea-caavaa, brll llantine and satin not silk, mark you the ' uses of these stylish and accommodating wraps arc too many to be numbered. 8om dashing driving coats In mush room white eleta the aewest and Moat desired auaaee. If whit can be called a hade, are provided with triple hoaider rapes and revera of ailk In the sasse whiu. Cata of coarse white linen, brUHaatlna or lace will have atrajpina c taffeta. a4 ItmnON ROSK3 SET OFF A PRKTTY FACE. A NEW IDEA IK TABLE DKCO RATION. perhaps ornaments of silk gataon, shaped In buttons with dangles and looped in cords from shoulder to shoulder. The covert coat, considered a necessary, requirement for spring wear. Is taking te Its old tightness and a strap, whose over doing. It may be safely predicted, "will finally be Its undoing. Some models are pleasing on wearers whose figures show oft to advantage with the almost tight fit. Others give the body a wooden and patchy look, and the many cheap cloths used recommend them strongly to the kitchen belle. Indeed, It is everywhere observed that If woman wishes a plain, ready made gar ment of distinctive style, she mast pay for its privilege. For having decided upon ornamentation as the dominant note of the season, Dame Fashion has no time to think of plainness, and the demand for It Is often met at the shops as a presump tion. On the other hand, if one wishes the orna mental and can afford it in its best form, never did the market afford such oppor tunities for perfect beauty. Only to study the costumes worn by the wax women In some of the shop windows is a liberal edu cation In clothes; and on reading their prices woman Is no longer inclined to regard the private maker as the only pirate In the world. The combined cost of four gowns In a glass cage at a leading shop was exactly 11300. Three frocks, priced at N each, were miracle ef hand stltchery, and ene charmer la shaded rose chiffon had Its fiouaos edges ruched la a way te exactly Imitate crash reees. By such perfeetloa at make the dearness of these creations la ae couated for, aa ehlfloa w a comparatively Inexpensive material, and another frock was acdy ag wwat veils Speaking of voile, "pinch" tucking the narrowest variety made Is a simple deco ration used for It with subtly effective re sult. In skirt panels, over blouse bodices, across sleeves, this delicate tucking, which takes up a scarcely appreciable grasp of the stuff, is looped In garland borders, shaped In vast plnwheels, or built in squares and ovals framing lace medallions. A new material which lends Itself charm ingly to this treatment la coller-ne, a species of veiling which falls more softly than the usual kinds. Many gowns for garden party wear are being made In collenne. In which the pink ish amber of champagne Is the preferred tint. A gown destined for a June function at Lenox shows a mad spider-web treatment of pinch tucks In combination with white antique luce. The odd tucking forms the hip yoke of the skirt and a pointed band tn the bottom, which surmounts at both points three wide tucks in the gown mate rial. The simple blouse waist fastens at the back under a deep cape collar Inset with the antique lace and bordered with silk fringe. A second stunning dress for garden party or other high dress use. Is of whits band kerchief linen with Insertions of Irish lac in grape dexign. One point Is noticeable with all fine wash materials, and that Is that where ever It can be employed, tucking la used. Shaped flounces are tucked at the top, skirts fitted at the hips with tucks, and sleeves radiantly manipulated with them. Aa to the form ef the dressy sleeve all opinions agree that the arm covert ag which la flat at the top pouchinc at the wrist la the one for twentieth century beauty. Many devioes, scarcely noticeable to tbeaMwlvesv bwt adding aubtig t iha whole, are employed to bring about the perfect development, of the fashionable sleeve. Threo tiny tucks may shorten tha wrist pouch at the Inside arm and one at the Joint of the arm give ease to tha elbow. But whatever the trick uned, they form part of the trimming, as it were, and from the button-holo loops, which fasten transparent stocks and cuffs, to the tiny net covered buttons themselves, this is all in perfect relation. A sleeve of unusual beauty is shown In a garden party frock of saffron Valenci ennes nnd white mousseline de sole. The deep yellow and dead white of this gown is a combination much admired by French makers, one of whom has sent over the cuHtume for a handsome young matron in the smurt set. In form the creation la of. exceptional grace, for, on both skirt and bodice, the wide lace flounces are used in a way to Increase the clinging effect. The upper flounce of the skirt, of which there are three, borders a tucked tunlo of the moUHsellne. Below this only the lace of the other flounces shows. Upon the bodice the lace continues the three-flounce suggestion, the two upper ones crossing tho tops of the drooping sleeves to form shoulder caps. Singularly enough this fragile gown Is girdled with a belt of tur quoise velvet, a bias of which appears above the edge of the stock. All accessories provided for garden party wear express a superlative elegance and some of the gausy parasols seen are mere excuses for the burdens or flowers that they carry. A parasol ns expensive as It Is smart tS Is its price la of dead white silk, with a green wooden handle. Others of a smllar sort have bright red or white handles, the ribbon bow matching In all cases. Many borders In graduating satin Btripea are seen on summer parasols of both satin and gauze, and on all materials wide and narrow tucking is used with happy effect. But the perfectly plain parasol of white or green silk or scarlet or white gauze Is considered exccptlontly smart and the French woman has turned her fancy to shnplng this sunshnde in a pccnlliir wny. Called the "Crusoe," this novet parasol, which, of course, borrows something from our old friend Robinson, is In form a huge mushroom with the bottom line lightening In real Crusoe fashion. In one white gauxe case a fringe of small pink roses hung around the ferrule over the top; but the other two Crusoes seen for. of course, they are only novelth-s wire of plain white and green silk with harv.lles of jointed bamloo. The Pnrislenne Is nothing if not indepen dent In idea, yet so gracefully are her fads taken up and worn that the charge of eccentricity can never be brought against - her. Then In her own wny she conforms to public opinion, and, though she might wear red shoes the whole day long in Nice or Mentone. nothing would Induce her to appear In Paris with a breast knot of real flowers. The wearing of the knots of violets and single roses our own women are given to Is considered bad taste in the French capital and since the habit Is confined to the dedase. the American or Eng lish woman so offending Is frequently tha target C much coarse ribaldry. MARY DBAN.
