12
THE OMAHA DAILY JVET. SUNDAY, JANUARY 4. 1903.
(4
4
mmmmm
fa.iiios yon midwhteu.
Ileal of the F.nrly "' Style Are
Retained.
NEW YORK, Jan. 2 January li not a
month when one looks for new styles, but
Just now winter fashions take a second
tart with variation" on established effects.
Modes whlrh seemed prrfprt enough la the
beginning bloom with unexpected
touches," and thi'se, with their novelty
and becomlnsness, reveal the fart that Im
provementa ran always be made. Nowhera
Is thla more pronounced than with evening
clothes, which grow dally more ourprlalng,
numberless new motives showing In dinner
bodices, especially.
Invented originally for purposes of econ
omy, the odd dinner waist has been mada
''legitimate by smart approval, and with
plain velvet, silk and cloth skirts for ac
companiment, they arc now worn by many
stylish women. The fad, however, still bas
Its economical side, for. If some of the
waists are very splendid, others are simple
enough, and with a single black skirt three
:WllI make the evening wardrobe seem lux
uriously lavish.
Perhaps the best Bklrt for all-round even
ing use Is one of black silk point d'epprlt,
which fashionable textile black ribbon vel
vet trims prettily. Tho velvet and silk
kirts worn with odd waists are usually
made very plain, and with a white bodice
of any sort, a white cloth skirt Is consid
ered the last notch of elegance.
As to the waists themselves, Inwness of
cut and plcturesqueness of effect are their
aallent featurea. Their sleeves are elab
orately graceful In line, always fitting the
top-arm very tightly and dropping In great
puffs at the wrist, or flowing in flounces at
the elbow. With these limitations as to
length for few really short sleeves arc
een the models take to unnumbered kinks
for variety.
Charm I us? Bodice.
Three charming bodices, recently turned
out by a fashionable dressmaker for dinner
use, display effective details.
Nile green gauze, spangled with sequins.
In a metallic shade of blue, composes one.
The long, transparent sleeves bang In the
prevailing puff, and they are finished at
the wrist with shaped flounces of white
gauze eoged with lace, a unique bertha
band about the low-cut neck introducing
these materials in diamonds covered by a
equlned netting. But tinsel pendeloquea
DAINTY EVENING FROCK OF WHITE
GR03 GRAIN AND FRENCH LACE.
Inlsh the lower points of the diamonds and
Dingle with a lace and gauze jabot at the
front.
Even more unique as to combination of
materials and contrast of color Is the sec
ond waist. Illack novelty net, black velvet
ribbon, white and rose-colored silk are the
materials used, the silk, cut in pointed
flounce, shaping the sleeves alone. These,
banging in a fall half way down the arm at
the back and above the elbow at the front,
re topped by rap effect mado by the lace
band which surrounds the low cut neck.
At the front this band runs up In a straight
atrip to the stock of lace and velvet, worn
around the bar throat; (or, with the ex
ception of this trifling protection, the neck
la exposed. Tho lower purtlon of the waist
Is of the black net over white chirr on and
Ilk,' the velvet ribbon simulating a sus
pender effect at the Bide fronts. Additional
trimmings for this complicated creation are
rose-colored silk cord, used on the sleeves,
and some black velvet appliques employed
on the lace yoke.
A bolero Jacket Is outlined with black
Chantllly lace on the third bodice, whoso
neck cut Is a shallow V. Plain white chif
fon and white striped with black are the
other materials mainly used, the last mate
rial being plain for the deep aleevo flounces
and tucked tor the yol:o and tops of sleeves.
Black velvet tics these graceful details at
the middle arm, and deep falls of plain
white chiffon show under the outside ones,
which are edged with a scalloping band of
the Chantllly. Finally, there Is a shoulder
yoke of whlto embroidered with black, an t
a jabot ornamented with lace ovals. Below
the black Jacket all the bodice Is puro
white.
Simplicity In Evening Vorru .
A simplicity which contrasts enormously
with this Intricate beauty is seen la some
of the evening gowns, which are frequently
composed of only two textures. For in
stance, if the frock Is of sl'k. flowered,
trlped or plain, the deecratlon is only
chiffon or a very delicate and Inexpensive
quality of lace. The chiffon Is used In
kilted skirt frills, for eeshrs. the ends of
which aro doubled and gathered Into
rosettes at tho bolt cm, and for bodice
A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS AJOYFaiEVcl
DR. T. FELIX GOUKAlD'i ORIENTAL
Cat A. OX MAGICAL BtAt' IlflEi
Ts. Umpt
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ma is "
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are tt 9'""l
Ut ftlUl. I" 4-
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uujr wi ia siui
kuu u eiu:
As you
kin .is, ihrm. 1 recom
mend XloLKAtDS ChtAk as the lrt
harmful of all tlie (Kill inviumuun' i
sal by all rtrutgll and fancy good deal
er in tho V. 9. :d lurop.
ifc.HU. 1'. liol'KINS. rri'r,
S Great Joaea St. N. X.
a - W 'l t Wj
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
draperies. The lace li put on similar
materials in many ways, tint one method
seen had certainly the merit of extreme
newness. It also suggested facile Ideas
for the woman who can make her own
clothes and who loves loveliness without
great expenditure.
A French model in Ivory white gros grain
silk wss the almost girlishly simple gown
which displayed this treatment. Three
narrow silk frills over other of chiffon
trimmed the bottom of the trained skirt,
the back of which was covered by a wide
tabbed sash of thin white lace. This was
caught to the Bklrt breadths, a bolero effect
In the lace on the silk and chiffon bodice
giving a talled-roat look. The lace em
ployed was an inexpensive allover sort,
but, of rourse, only the French would think
of using It in this way.
Any arrangement of lace whicb imitate
a Jacket is popular, and the longer the fall
of the postillion, the better. Seldom Is a
bodice seen without some drop at the back,
and since the hat "tails" arc predicted soon
to pans. It looks as It we were consoling
ourselves In tbt way.
Ronni for the lloose.
Negligee do not usually come under the
low-neck bead, but all of one's collar
bones show In some of the present house
things. Long boudoir gowns and short cof
fee and tea Jackets are taking to this one
time Immodesty, with the result that the
fnlr one' who receives the morning or after
noon caller Is always the better looking.
For, however charming high effects may
be, a low-rut la vastly more becoming to
nine women out of ten; and if the tenth
woman cannot bare her throat, thin lace
yokes and muslin gulmpea will simulate It
to her benefit.
Fur and lace figure on many of the hand
some bouse clothes In combination with
the most diaphanous gauzes. A dainty little
coffee Jacket, cut out at the neck. Is of
these three materials. Canton gauxe in a
deep shade of marigold yellow composing
the main part of the garment. The model
is very loose, a full skirt flowing under a
pointed bolero of the pure white lace. The
bolero Is bordered with an edge of sable
and tied at the bust with a flat velvet bow.
Its snug sleeves, which are pointed at the
bottom, fall short of the elbow, below
which are long puff undersleeves of the
ganze.
In such pretty frivolities and with the
throat encircled by a short neck chain of
some sort, one 'see the presiding hostesses
of many afternoon functions. A look of
delicate festivity is achieved by the bared
neck, and if the jacket is all of lace, as it
frequently is, and the skirt of velvet, the
getup sometimes seems splendid.
A beautiful lace used on elaborate even
ing waists and these semi-dress things as
well, is made of a vast, round cord. As
soft in effect as chenille, tbl cord weaves
always a very open pattern, through which
several layers of chiffon over silk provides
a rich background.
Whole bodice mado In this way are seen
In block and white over white and deep
cream over color, but the best results
show a more discreet use of the lace. The
body of tite waist may be covered with it,
the woven piece falling short of the collar
line to display chiffon and gauze yokes
exquisitely needleworked. With this the
sleeves may be entirely of the chiffon or
gauze, with perhaps one rich application of
the cord lice, or deep shoulder cap of It.
Gown Trimmings.
Negligee strictly speaking, the loose
garments in which fair woman take the
best of her home comforts are both aeml
decollotte anl very high at the throat.
Many a wrapper of fine cashmere or nov
elty wool displays marvels In band stitch-'
ery, delicate ribbon trimmings and har
monious combinations of color.
Cheeked ribbon, in apple green and black,
decked one smart gown of pale pink nov
elty wool. Tho ribbon was manipulated to
form pointed bands, Joined with fagottlng,
and shaped an entire bolero which set upon
the wide-sleeved garment as it It wore a
separate detail.
Flowered, striped and spotted ribbons,
tho last sort in black and white, are alco
pretty garnishing for wool wrapper, whose
deep sailor collars may also show a touch
of lace. Silk ball and tassels, In the same
shade as the ribbon, disposed at the bottom
of the bolero or ending tie-strings, are fre
quently seen.
But pretty as It Is, all thl flummery
lose It charm before certain severely plain
bouse styles, worn here and there by
women of elegant pretensions. One of these
Is a sort of empire wrapper made of a
ccarr.o soft wool In ivory white. The limp
skirt and puff sleeve are side kilted, and
below .tho round embretdered yoke hangs
a deep worsted fringe entirely covering the
short body. Black velvet, cut bias, forms a
girdle and side bow, the same material
in narrow ribbon tying the sleeves at the
wr'..
Nothing Is more beautiful for the house
than white, and such clatslc styles, even
thcugh suggesting a nightgown, lend grace
to slight figure. MARY DEAN.
MIDWINTER WEDDINGS.
Correct Style for Ceremonies la
Church and Home.
NEW YORK, Jan. I. Weddings are the
enly social functions whore Dame Fashion
finds her Iconoclastic progress balked by
the power ot tradition and sentiment. In
the ball room she may supplant the stately
minuet by ragtime twostena and the mu
slcale ot old drawing room day may give
place to polite vaudeville, but wedding
will be wedding to the end of the chapter.
With a delicate touch she may alter deco
rations and other trifling details, but In
many of the more Important point), the
ide of l!Hil goes back two or three gene
ra. ion for precedent, a well a for the
family bridal veil.
,i. i. .v.i.j i ih. vnii
that her mother and her grandmother wore.
It may be a trifle yellow with age. but it
will reek with lavender or rose petal cdors
and lend a distinction not to be secured
from the. latest importation In real lace.
The ancestral veil is bound to occasion
! comment and rouse envy In the hearts of
prospective brides, whoso grandmother
were not thoughtful enough to band down
the accessory of their wedding frocks.
Green and white are unquestionably the
correct eolors fcr the midwinter weJCiog.
Indeed, thl is a whit winter In all sorts
of decorations, a fact upon which interested
parties may be congratulated, for no other
color scheme I at one ao simple and ef
fective. It It be a church wedding, white
flowers harmonize most correctly with the
dignified surroundings, and if the ceremony
is at home, they prov? decorative with any
furnishings.
For church weddings chrysanthemum
make the best showing, smaller blossoms
being dwarfed by their surroundings. In
large churches woere the altar is bankel
with palms, florist are resorting with
great success to the artificial plants. At
8t. Bartheiomew', tb millionaires' church,
in New York City, a florist recently em
ployed artificial eoceanut palms which
towered up to the celling and were banked
In by smaller varieties. The palms near
est the chancel and around tb choir tall
1
W
were natural. Artificial plant are set In
Christmas tree holders and are cheaper and
much easier to handle.
Hoik Dcroratloni.
In a bouse wedding few palms are em
ployed, as every inch of floor space ia
needed. Laurel or southern xmllax Is used
effectively and rose and carnations are
less cumbersome than chrysanthemums.
The decorations for a house weJdlng should
be lighter than for a church function, and
they reflect more accurately the taete of
the bride and her mother.
A very beautiful effect wos attained. at a
recent house wedding where the decora
tions were in the Inevitable green and
white. A broad staircase in the square
ball, which was in full view of the guest
assembled in the drawing room, was
wreathed in smllax, caught with white
rosebuds. Down this came the procession,
headed by six young girls In the simplest
of white frocks of mousellalnc de sole, car
rying lilies of the valley and maiden halt
fern. They sang the bridal chorus from
Lohengrin, and formed an aisle at the foot
of the stairs through which the rest of the
bridal party passed into the drawing room.
The well-trained but girlish voices sounded
the keynote for the entire function, which
was marked by an elegant simplicity which
can be attained only in one's own home.
It wa at thl same wedding that the lit
tle flower girl carried lilies of the valley
In a pale green basket of exquisite work
manship, end the bride's cake was dis
tributed In weo boxes of sliver and white
brocade, tied with silver cord.
The matron of honor is still seen at
church weddings, but she Is apt to be too
stately a figure for the simpler house func
tion. In fact, unless a house I truly
palatial in size and appointment the bridal
party should be small. The length of church
aisles lends Itself admirably to a retinue
of pretty girls and broad shouldered men,
but the same number of people make the
average drawing room look small and
cramped.
Wedillag Ilresre.
In the matter of wedding dresses there
is no happy medium. Either you are much
be ruffled and befrllled, or you are severely
COFFEE COAT AND NEGLIGEES.
Dlaln. Either you are enveloped in cloud
I of tulle ana lace, or you wr
I Uk. 'Wcb literally .land, alone and Is
made accoraingiy. Ana n mu ua.
you must wear, no matter what the ma
terial employed.
A recent bride who rebelled on this one
point and Introduced a surplice effect said
It was the om cloud In an otherwise
brilliant wedding day sky. Every woman
who came up to wish her Joy fixed a dis
concerting gaze on that V-shaped neck.
Pearls are the preferred Jewels for the
bride' ornaments, and they are also Intro
duced In the passementrie used in trim
ming the dress. The new drops rr pend
ants, formed of seed pearls, arc used ex
tensively in combination with satin and
peau de sole.
Despite the efforts of modistes to intro
duce moire as a wedding dress fabric. It
bss not attained any popularity. You must
take your choice between the sheen of satin
or the flutter of chiffon.
For bouse weddings moimclaiue de sole
and point d'esprlt bold their own for mailt
of honor and flower girl. For church cere
monies heavier goods are employed, broad
cloth for the bride's lialds and albatross
or similar soft fabrics for the wee maid
who carrte he flowers. For the latter
styles are very simple when the heavier
texture are employed.
It 1 mistake to think that Jutt any
4 . . 4
1 .i fa wt. . r
dress suit will do for the groom. He re
ceives as much attention from hi tailor
as the bride from her modiste. The tailor
Is apt to think this is one occasion of a
man's life when he to the cynosure of
many critical female eye and he forthwith
Introduce the small details which distin
guish this year's evening suit from last
reason's.
A suit recently sent home by a Fifth
avenue tailor showed several Innovations
In the finishing. The stripe down the
side of the trousers was of a tightly woven
silk braid In a distinct pattern and very
different from the absolutely plain effect
of last year. The braid which finished the
top of the waistcoat was Irregular In It
weave like a coarse double-rdgrd saw, and
very narrow and very flat, and visible only
upon close examination. The same pattern
appeared on the buttons, and the coat had
a deep and clearly defined cuff.
A single spray of lilies of the valley, or
a very small rosebud, is used for tho
groom's buttonhole. The bride's bouquet la
still of the shower type, each blossom being
tied to a narrow ribbon. White rose and
lilies of the valley are the favorite combi
nation, although thoee who arc ready to
pay 75 cents to 12 a blossom may select
white orchids.
For the going-away gown the new
tailored effects are chosen. This means
tailored lines In the cutting, but consider
able elaboration In the trimming. Even lace
Is Introduced In such a costume and I not
considered Incongruous, no matter how
heavy the fabric.
VERY ML't'II I, IKK EVE.
UJoseph'ne Dodge Daakain Astonishes
the Pilgrim Mothers.
Miss 'Josephine Dodge Daskam,' the au
thoress, astonished the members of the Pil
grim Mothers' society in New York re
cently when she expressed her views on
"The Glrla of the Future."
"The young girl of the future," she said,
"I hope may find no greater responsibili
ties, no wider paths, no more difficulties
than the girl of the present has. Many
women who are most valiantly .anxious to
gain their rights have always forgotten one
thing that the party of the first part, our
brothers, are today where they we e in the
beginning; they have always bad the same
advantages, the same responsibilities, the
same difficulties, and, fortunately, they
have the training to meet th'jm. The girl
has all of these things and 753 extra tasks.
And her back is no stronger and ber shoul
ders are Just as small as they ever were.
I do not think there is much difference be
tween the girl ot today and Eve.
"The girl of the future will be definitely
obliged to choose between her ever-present
privileges and her rights. And. if anybody
were to ask me, I would advise ber to bang
on to her privileges and let ber rights go."
The silence that followed thai remark
was relieved by the laughter caused by
Miss laekatn's next remark, that "It you
can't get your vote, you can always get
your voter, and you ran Influence him In
bis vote."
Two things. Miss Daskam said, she re
garded as absolutely necessary in an en
tirely satisfactory girl, and these things,
the said, were precisely the same in the
furthest Itlatd of the Pacific and In a h'.fb
ihool In Massachusetts. These were tbst
the girl must be good and she must be
cbarmlDg.
Miss Daskam, because of an engagement,
was obliged to leave aa soon a she had
finished speaking. Mr. Llllle IVveraut
Blake, president of the New Tork Legis
lative league, who presided, said:
"The speaker Is a successful writer, is
you all know, and she get the same for
her book aa men do. If she were a school
teacher or an employe under civil service
st Washington, perhaps she would think
differently."
for and About Women.
Miss Helen Miller Ontild I a volunteer
fireman, having been elected an honorary
member of the hose company at Kuxbjry,
Mrs. Vlnnle Ream Hoxle he presented
Cornell university with a life-nlse bust, her
own work, of Ksra Cornell, founder of
Cornell university. The Rift is made on
the condition that the ligure be transferred
to bronsa.
I Governor Crane of Ronton ha appointed
Mis Caroline Hazard, president of Welles
ley collepe. a member of the Massachusetts
State Hoard of Education, to fill the va
cancy caused by the death of Mrs. Alice
Kreemin Palmor.
Half a century ago Mr. Alcott, the
American authoress, wrote the followlna;
about Albert Kdward, prince of Wales, now
King Edward of England: "He Is a yellow
haired laddie, very like his mother. Fanny
and I waved and nodded to him a ho
passed and he oenly winked his boyish
eye at us, for Fanny, with her yellow
curls and wild waving, looked rather rowdy
and the poor little prince wanted some
fun."
rollowin the lead of Mrs. Stuyvesnnt
Fish, ultra fashionable New York women are
taking to sitting In theater boxes with
their backs to the stage. Mrs. Fish origi
nated this fad a few evening ago, hardly
looking toward the footlights even, much
less nttemlliiir to the olnv. nnd keening up
an animated but subdued conversation with
threa friends. Another fad ot the nour
among New Yorkers is to abbreviate
"Thank vou" until it Bounds exactly aa
thou it h the Derson were saving "kw.'
A nervous woman who realize her lack
of repose was lniuring her health and dis
turbing he friends determined to overcome
a condition that was described as "to ner
vous to sit still a minute." She realized
that If fhe had some occupation that would
require her to sit still for a certain length
of time she would be likely to overcome her
habit of being constantly on the move. So
ehe decided to pose for an illustrator, two
hours a day being devoted to this task,
with rests in between, and the result was
exceedingly beneficial as a nerve and rest
cure. Not every one la likely to be In de
mand as a mixlel for an illustrator, but
the same result might be obtained by a
nervous woman holding a pose for twenty
minutes or so in her own room arid keep
ing regularly at the work.
Frill of Fashion.
Fringe Is extensively used for trimming
evening dresses.
Steel and silver trimmings are more In
evidence this year than gold.
An exceedingly dainty Dendant Is in pansy
form, cut out of one piece of opal, with a
diamond center and suspended from
platinum chain.
8quare-eiit emeralds, surmounted by
small brilliants,, are among the novelties
In ear rings.
White, psle blue end old pink are the
most fashionable colors this season for
evening wear.
Slender platinum neck chains, set with
?uaintly-shaied jt-wels, repreitent a new
eature in gem work.
pressy waist are fashioned from white
mohair and trimmed wlih narrow white
satin ribbon or bold braid.
Thm tmronue neurla In white lend an ex
tra touch of embellishment to a lovely
stock of soft si:k In pale pins.
Hl.-i, u ntvrtttei fur the hair are tinned
with diamonds and exceedingly beautiful
are these siiutillutlug ornaments.
A wing-Hhaped belt buckle of blue enamel
with a greenLli cast Is decorated with the
head and tail feathers of a peacock.
One of the extreme novelties In evening
i-hor Is a slipi'ir or green aatin, with side
Insertion of d tent leather and green satin
heels.
The rnml rose has been revived and In Its
I delicate pink preitiness it is now found
ailornlllg Some long uroocne nui iiiiik
Ucki'ina.
of the many chains that have mad their
appearance this aon one formed cf
twisted gold wire bad, el with pearls,
la uullcuable.
SVVAIMSOIM'S "5
o) fir
ill UL
1
nnnn rK?
11!) UVU b U
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rmiam uwu.-e. Our I nulni i- iiJL iw,ui,
bM u.4 rV.ll of u.pa simI ua.L Audiaa
aaatnincrifTttiiiia.tiW w'. '.Umu., t etty.
- DROPS" CURES
nn
M
iwAnsori -OBorr i rJti
for this disease. U makes no riiflerenco bo
Severn the case may bfl, "o-OmTM," if used a
directed will five quick relief and affec. a per
manent enre. Kheomatistn U causrd by
cid poison which accumulates in the system,
ettlins in the joints, nerves ot ransdes, nJ
causing the most intense pain. It i blood
disease nnd can only bo cured by cleansing
the Wood of its impnritiev No liniment caa
ever cure rheumatism, although if tho right
kind is used it will stop the pains for tho tira
being. Swanson M5-DR0PI" is both an inter
nal and external remedy. Applied externally
it will prevent those borriblo pain with which
a rheumatic victim suffers. Taken internally
it will make a permanent euro of tha disease)
bv (t"ing directly to tin seat cf tha trouble and
removing the cause. "S-DnW purities tha
blood by dissolving all poisonous matter and
removing It from the system. This is tha only
correct method of treading this disease, and
thaonlyone whereby instant relief is giva
and a complete cure obtained. "S-OROPI" ia
the only remedy that will thoronghly and per
manently cure Kheuniatram, Lumbago, Sciat
ica and Neuralgia. ,
FR FID SMITH, AJemblo, Mich., writes; "I sen
to Mi. Pl.-a.tnui after a bottle of "a-OROPS" think
ing, of course. It wss only aneiher dollar wasted.
Well stUDre to snr I wss trailed by two of our best
Free
charge to every reader of this paper upon
us with your name and address. Writ today.
FREE
COUPON
Cmt Mi .hft and and It '
with yourBavtuftBnd 41rM F
to Hwsnion ltltcumattctur I 3
Co.,C"hlcfcyo,nrt vou will b V '
bwmiC trial hottl of fri
P110PS" fre, postpaid.
triUDK MARK J
J
1 1
Those 81
m.t..U f n
Onrse .
. OF
mm
CURED BY
WHITE RIBBON REMEDY
No laete. No odor. Can be tiven In glass
ot VVaur. tea. or co0.ee without uatieat a
fcnowleuge.
White itlbton Hemedy will cure or de.
atroy the diseased atetttu for alcoioile
stimulants, whether the patient is a tun"
In und Inebriate, a "tiniler," eoclal drinker
or drunkard, linposaiuie fur anyone la
have an appetite lot alcoholic lluuurs aftur
u.lng White Klbbon Remedy.
Indorsed by Members ui W. C. T. V
Airs. Moore, press superintendent of We
mane Chrietiku Xeiupertaoe Union. Vea
luia, CallloruU, wriiee; "1 have teste
While Hibbon Remedy on very obstinate
dtunkurds. and the cures have been many
la inaur '-axes the Remedy wa given -c.-etly.
1 cheerfully recommend and Inuors
White Itibbor. Remedy. Membeia of our
l.nlon aro delighted to find aa economical
treatment lo aid us in our temperwuc
vorK,
Druggists or by mail. 11. Trial nackac
free by writing Mrs. A. M. Townsend (for
var. eecreta-y of a Woman Christian
'femperai ca Union). 218 Tremout St.. Bo,
ten. Mukt. Sold In Omaha by
SCHAEFER'S SSuWi
Gotfclivi MVa:
Every Woman
uulerfsj
MARVTI Whirl;. n i...
!eiS-
1J l rear SrauUI fcr H.
"So accino 't
lull PlUlilrail rtiiKVi.u .
Boom fc Time Bid-.. W. fr.
'jr bale by
bCHAEKKH 8 CI T ItATt DRUG 8 YORE,
corner lCib and Chicago tits.. Omab.
TWENTIETH CENTURY FARMER
Popular aaa Timely Article.
U
y
