Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, November 23, 1902, EDITORIAL SHEET, Page 16, Image 16
TTIE OMAHA DAILY JIT.Ta SUNDAY, NOVEMBEH 23, 1902. IN THE DOMAIN Of WOMAN. IIS 2T T ' GOWNS FOR YOISO C.I HI,. Frrttr Clothes Associated with the Day ( Olvlns Thanks. NEW YORK. Not. 21. Why the fol-de-rols' of drees should be coupled with ths day on which we Rive tbankt to heaven for Itt mercies la something that cannot en tirely b explained. But here are the si gnu In the ahop windows: "Thanksgiving walsta." "Thanksgiving towns." "Thanksgiving hats." Pettlcoata with the prefix were wanting, but finding some short, warm bright under skirts, It pleased a wandering woman to give them the timely title. Theae pettlcoata were In hand-knitted German wool and coarse silk comfortable, homely things that the aenslble school girl would take to If she haa a country home to visit at Thanksgiving. The gowns, which were of a stout outing variety, combined well with them; and the flat French sailor hats, simply trimmed, jaunty and youthful, topped the useful outfits delightfully. Tor the rest It waa quite plain from the framing of some of the window exhibits that the foot ball game, which Is alwaya a feature of Thanksgiving, had been con aldered. Surrounded by streamers In the favorite college colors, heavy outdoor gowns competed for notice with dainty, cloud-like evening frocks. Harvard, Tale and Princeton rosettes adorned the breast f many a fetching shirtwaist shirtwaist simple enough for the girls themselves to make. But before we come to them there. Is an entire costume that should be Introduced natty thing worn by wax girl of per haps IS. It waa of white and brown checked tweed In one of the newest models designed for young persons not yet "out." Trimmed with golden-brown velvet and six medallone of white cloth embroidered with brown, a skirt yoke and ehoulder cape In deep tucka were ita most effective features. Aaide from this narrow yoke the skirt, which waa in aeven gorea, waa perfectly plain. The tucked bodice waa In blouss shape, with velvet forming the roung yoke, the cuffs and girdle. One of the square cloth medalions was placed at the front of the stock like a brooch. Three others, posed at the same diamond angle, orna mented the front of the bodice, which fastened under the left arm. The baggy puff sleeves were very small at the top, .with a single medalion on the velvet cuffs, and the crush belt hooked little girl fashion under a "chou" at the back. Last, but fnr from leaat, the costume was lined through out with brown taffetallne, a lining cheaper and warranted more durable than the taf fetas once used. Made In all the colors of the season, taffetallne can be bad at 39 cents the yard. It Is lighter In weight and a Utile less lustrous than pure taffeta, but the effect la equally elegant, and a goodly rustle Is obtained. . Charms of Simplicity. Very charming were other gowns for ! maidens who have passed the little girl stage, and yet muBt cling to the simplicity I good taste requires for golden youth. Some tartan wools of rich coloring were ubdued with black braids and black taffeta Hands, put on in many odd ways. The popular puffed sleeve and the equally popu lar postillion belt were everywhere visible; the latter take all the shapes the mind of mortal can devise. A V-shaped fan In pleats, the V upside down, was on rear appendage found more than passable. It waa part of a wool canvas gown In the brightest blue that sparkling mazarin-lsh shade which suggests the ball that the washwoman drops into ber rinsing water. 1 The model was delightfully simple, a bablt aklrt with three narrow foot folda and a blouse Jacket plainly atitched. With all thla modeaty the poaMUlon fan at the back of the belt seemed veritable magnificence. Three dainty little waists gave other hints for effects to be obtained by simple methods. A bodice in Sevres blue delaine was made radiant by a black embroidery outlining Its scattered round flowers. The only other trimming was a bias band In plain blue, which, running completely around the shoulders of the bodice, took a jagged, lightning-like line at the side busts. At the front this band dipped very low, with the falllng-off look of the present style of decolletage. A smoked pearl but ton fastened one lapping end. Dainty Trimmings. i Black aatln pipings trimmed several sim ple flannel walata with good effect. On a little aklrt in art green diagonal the black edged two auspender pleats; a glistening round braid did some scroll work on the bottom one. . Epaulette shoulder treatments abound, and, aiDce the shoulders are the hardest part pf the waists to fit, these seem a good device for hiding indifferent work. Down the bias bands, which are used on some of them, tiny silk or velvet buttons, put on In close row, are sometimes employed with stylish results. But when it comes to the really dressy wal4t, neither buttons nor atln piping are adequate decorations. Bomethtng genuinely . elegant Is necessary, though the trimming may be only the slightest "touch," as the modistes put it. On a blouse bodice of ivory white gros (rain silk thla touch took the form of a .bertha or Irish guipure ralaed grapes with leaves and tendrils applied -to a pointed yoke band of the silk. The lace waa dead white, a narrow edge and some rings in the same lace trimming the high stock and the bottoma of the open sleeves. Under these, which fell a little below the elbow, were wrist puffs In pure white moussellne. This waist, as well as othera In pale silks with lace and chiffon decklnga, suggested economical possibilities for the girl who cannot afford an entire Thanksgiving din ner dresa. For. of courae, every school girl expects always to be fine on her holidays, the meeting of her college boy frienda be ing not the least of her reason for the same. , This brings us to the little dances and popcorn parties and other gentle functions, which are part and parcel of the youthful notion of Thanksgiving. So let us turn from day elegancies to evening ones. Tarty Frocks. Two party frocks shown by a shop dedi cated to juvenile wear alone are charm ingly Ingenue in style. Both cost a pretty penny In their present shape, but If yoti have a sharp eye for bargains In summer gauzes you may copy them for a song. Embroidered bastistc in the fashionable shade of butter yellow embodies the more elegant of the two. It Is trimmed with fancy bands of the same, one shaping a swirling heading for the deep skirt flounce, the other a bertha for the low cut bodice. On the sleeves a matching band forma a shoulder cap, under which loose puffs ex tend to pointed waistbands of the embroid ery. A lacing of black velvet ribbon fastens the waist at the left front; a simi lar treatment ornaments the sleeve caps. The girdle Is also of black velvet ribbon, but In a four-Inch width. At the back the sash strips are finished In the new way at the bottom with big bows. Quaintly old-fashioned is the second Tii 1 BUTTER YELLOW BATISTE. frock. Made of pure white blonde net, with narrow stain ribbona especially suited to the girl of quiet tastes, whom the world calls "old-fashioned." ' The model Is almost little girl, so youth ful is the effect of the low-pufTed bodice and frilled skirt. Edging these ruffles, which are cut straight, are three in num ber, and heading the group Is the ribbon In straight rows. The top of the skirt is shirred In a straight girdle band. A shirred body yoke and the finish of the short sleeves match. A look almost babyish Is secured by a narrow gulmpe of plain net. Simplicity of material and modesty of cut are the things for your young daughter, and aee to It that some sort of a sleeve appears In her party waist. When this Teaches no further than the elbow, long gloves of suede or silk should cover the lower arm. Among the lesser frivolities for young girls are very charming evening girdles In pompadour ribbons with slldes'and buckles of tinted enamel. These also show the pleated and shaped postillion tails and the designs of all are so simple that they can easily be copied at home for less than half the cost of the ready-made models. In the way of Jewelry, pretty bowknot brooches are seen In colored enamels, which quite successfully Imitate the tied ribbons. Then coral Is much worn by young girls, In long chains of the broken twig sort, and in round beads, in bracelets, brooches and buck combs. Some of these are the basest Imitation, In a substance which more nearly resembles red sealing wax than coral. But never was real coral cheaper than nor, and since it Is the birthright of youth, let every girl own at least one rosy trinket as long as the fad Usts. MARY DEAN ORIENTAL, INVASION. Fashion Welcomes a Host of Articles from the Far East. There Is an Oriental Invasion of the fash ionable world thla season. On ewry hand evldencea of the fad for Oriental colors and material are seen In the tailored coatume with Its appliques of rlch-hued silks and embroidery, In shirt waists and what not. One trouser's leg from the outfit of a Bulgarian prince is sufficient to trim a gown with solid Bulgarian embroidery, or. If the wearer prefer, the trimming, includ ing a dress yoke and vest, panels, collar and cuffs, may be cut from the embroidered portions of a silk East Indian shirt. What matter if the other parts of the soft and rich colored silk shirt show signs of wear? This only enhances the old coloring in th embroidery which la exquisitely beautiful Wholly different from the Persian, the Indian and the Turkish and Bulgarian em broideries are thoae of Chinese and Japa nese make. China, perhaps, has the lead In Oriental fashions for American wesr al though lt would har(1 u un whher China Is much ahead of Japan. Not a few persons term the straight coats slit up the sides Japanese kimonas. Shades of the mandarins, hear them! They are no '" "Pienaiaiy embroidered gar ments h!eh once aid duty upon the shoul der, of some Chinese mandarin of wealth and distinction. "These." aald a prominent Importer of Chinese garment, for fashionable people, a. he lifted a splendid mandarin1, coat that had been Amerlcanlxed by adding chiffon puffs In the wide sleeves, "are the very newest thing out for wear at the opera." The klmona coat often have larger flow era In heavier styles of embroidery upon them, and are finished In a style peculiarly their own. These are not slit up the sides, but fasten In front or to one side. Flannel and silk shirt waists trimmed with Persian bands arc among popular nov elties in the Oriental line, and all manner of Oriental silks come all ready embroidered for making up waists. Oriental bands for trimming all sort of costumes are quite the vogue, and are made so that they will combine with almost any color and material. Nor are silk Japanese and Chinese doilies despised as a mean of trimming dresses. The borders and corners are cut off and these constitute trimming. The most elegant gowns, however, are the ones which are appllqued with bunches of flower cut from a Chinese garment, often with panels from a Chinese skirt set In the skirt. Not less beautiful are the silk gauzes embroidered over with garlands of small flower In delicate shades, like faint visions of flowers seen through a rose-colored mist. Sometimes the gauze gives the effect of a pale cloud of blue, silver or gray. If the silk brocades and gauzes are lovely, words can hardly do Justice to the Japa nese obis, magnificent broaended silks of the heaviest and stiffeat quality, with em broidery which glitters with the subdued glow of old gold and which is so rich that It literally stands up. These obis run from $4 to 140 a yard end show marvelous designs of chrysanthemums, ' Japanese foliage, wistaria and strangely Interwoven patterns that are harmonies of soft colors. While some very elegant gowns can be made of obis, they are used for Jhe roost part to face and trim coats and elaborate decorative scheme of rich costumes.. Not only do gowns and coats show the Oriental style of decoration, but hat are stuck with large Oriental pins. Oriental purses, jewels, chains and card case find a part In the new costuming. Oriental embroidery appear upon slippers and shoes and touches of China, Japan, Turkey, Persia and Bulgaria appear with charming disregard of unity upon some of the most beautiful costumes. The western mind has never fully grasped the Oriental ability In handling colors and combinations of color; this sea son may teach It much In this respect. SMASHED HER WAY IS An Iowa Girl Discovers a New Occu . patlon for Her Sea. It Is a poor week for women nowadays, says the New York Sun, when they fail to Invent or to discover a new occupation be tween Monday morning and Saturday night, besides thinking out a few possibilities dur ing the leisure hour of a Sunday. There are all sorts of way of finding these new occupations. Some women ll-j awake nights trying to figure out one. Oth ers tumble by sheer good luck into an avenue of success. But lt remained for an Iowa girl to have a piece of bad luck which turned out to be a blessing in disguise, for it pointed the way to a money-making enterprise In which she shine at present, a solitary feminine performer. , rgulsed when it first reached the Iowa girl. it was tne smashing of a plate glass win dow, and it was the girl who smashed it. It was not her window. It wa In an archi tect's office and she wa hi assistant in a small way. Everything in thl story was tolerably mall except that plate glass window. The town was small. The architect waa invis ible to the naked eye, being off on a Jaunt to Mexico. The girl was small. But the window was "not o deep a a well nor so wide a a church door, but lt was enough." It would have been enough if It had been simple plate glass, unadorned. But it was more than that. It had the architect's name and profession emblazoned in gold letter upon It. It really seemed to the girl a If this was adding insult to Injury. She. negotiated with the owner of the building a generous bargain for the Installation of a new piece of glass, but those golden letters must also be replaced. She aw a sign painter about lt. Then she west home and wept. Sho herself, after a course at the Chicago Art Institute, had painted sundry pictures, but lt seemed to her as if the financial returns from these pictures had been Insignificant compared with the price for painting signs. Then she had an Inspiration. She decided to paint those costly gold letter herself, nd paint Ahem she did. Now thla Is a true story, otherwise no one could be expected to believe how good that sign painter was to ber. He let her have materials at cost, he took her to a plate glasa window where he himself bad a sign to paint, he showed her how to draw the letters on the glass, how to paint them when outlined and he let her work under bt. direction. The consequence wa an outburst of en thusiasm on his psrt. He vowed she could paint signs to beat the band and that sho could make money hand over fist it she would learn the business and then take ber skill and herself to a city where she could get a good deal of high-class work. He sola no anew or no other girl In the business and that that was, strange, sinoe It waa a work requiring taste and skill rather than plain strength. Thus, a the pious starles say, was mis fortune Droved to be a bleaslnv tn (Manila And the moral of thl Is, it' an 111 wind mass? k SCOTCH TWEED AND VELVET. that blow nobody any good and It' a eold day when a husky young woman can't break Into a new profession. NEW FAD IX RINGS. Clusters of Brilliant Gems Now Worn Outside the GIotcs. At a recent performance at Mr. Osborn'a theater In New York City a woman promi nent In the "smart set" made a startling effort to Introduce a new fad in rings. As she raised her opera glasses to scan the house from her box it was seen it could not help but be seen that she wore on tha little finger of her left hand a cluster ring of brilliant diamonds surrounding an enor mous pearl. The ring was one to excite attention In Itself, but what made It a startling feature of the woman's appearance was the fact that it was worn outside the white kid glove. As to -the woman's posi tion In the inner circle of the "smart set" there is no question. She has influence, audacity and force. Though no longer in her first youth, she Is always perfectly DAWN-ANTICIPATION. Th physical ills and needs of an expectant mother hare been the theme of thought and study for ages, and all physicians know that ber peculiar condition require an additional id to nature , an elaaticifier for the expand ing muscle and a strengthener for the mews upon which is brought the strain of child weight; so that the little one shall have per fect health and symmetry of form ; a lubri cating balm that will enable her to go about with grace and ease; quiet and steady nerves, and her whole beintj acting harmoniously for the good of herself and child. MOfriirs f WIND, if used diligently through out gestation, will soften the breasts, thereby preventing cracked and sore nipples. AU tissues, muscles and tendons straining with burden will soften, relax, become soothed, supple and elastic from its continuousappli- ah cures in me aoaommai region will respond readily to the expandin? cover the embryo if MOIHIR'S iftlEM) is containim administeredexternaily allduring pregnancy. A tnatUe MuiharWd' FRr.E. Writs. TltS BKAUrltU) KbOVLATOK CW.. Attests, Oa, which one can hardly tell from the hand embroidered kind, may now be had In very heavy effects. Borne of the daintiest of the new stock collars are embellixhed with tiny roue petals and the little scarf ends are flAioheri with them. Vests, yokes and undersleeves of bright nued Oriental embroidery lend a very effective touch to costumes of plain cloth in uam cuiorings. Borders, bunds and manv similar devices ornament the bottoms of the fashionable skirts, but the greatly reduced flare has eiiminaieu tne nounce almost entirely. Veils were never more popular than at the present time and the woman with the slender purse and she of the plethoric pocketbook alike may find Just the thing di.ii uiu i lasiv. An exceedingly decorative wall pocket that Is useful as well as pretty and dainty la fashioned from wire-bound, hand-painted gaure decorated with Watteau scene or heads of animals. A dream of daintiness is a pair of Empire coreetg of Imported batiste, their design being an empire scroll of yellow silk form ing the outline of the pattern, with a delicate rosebud Inside the scroll. The smartest suede slippers are adorned with bows of suede, fastened with big colonial buckles of dull gold, and are a welcome change from the silk or satin rosette that has done duty for so long. One of the prettiest specimen) of Italian pottery is a flower candlestick, the top being formed of a big, deep, purple pansy. In the heart of which sinks a candle. The standard Is formed by the green leaves In soft colorings. Outline stitch Is fashionable In embroid ery work at the present time and lt has extended also to note paper decoration, the latent examples showing sheet and en velope flap decorated with outline stitch in red upon white. Orape garniture for millinery use his be come too popular for the modish woman and the chrysanthemum in velvet has taken Its place, entire toques being formed of chrysanthemums In various colorings com bined with leaves. . The prettiest thing In the way of a bead bag, or of finishing a bead bag at the top, is a pointed network of silver chain, edged by a tiny ball fringe that can be drawn up with a silver chain. The bag Is In the de sign of one of the old-fashioned wrist bags and most of these now to be seen are mounted with modern silver frames. They close with clasps. Drawn up at the necks, they have the old-time effect, which Is desirable. THE OLD-FASHIONED GIRL. AND HER OLD-FASHIONED FROCK. groomed and no debutante can boast more exquisite or more expensive toilets. It ha been regarded as "the limit" to wear rings over the gloves. It Is considered worse than wearing diamonds at the break fast table. That lt Is Infinitely more con venient to put them on over the glove than to put a tight glove over them has nothing to do with the case, of course. None but a woman strongly Intrenched in a social po sition could have dared to do lt. The ques tion Is, Will she set a fashion? Frills of Fashion. Black cloth appliques on satin make an incongruous combination considered very swagger. Machine embroidered wash shirt waists, For and Abont Women. The mother of King Alfonso of Spain is one of the most expert billiard player In the world. Before her marriage she waa the champion of the court of Austria and found it easy to defeat all the archdukes who challenged her. Miss Nora Stanton Blatch, a grand daughter of the late Elizabeth Cady Stanton, will take up the work of her grandmother. She was the first and only woman to enter the civil engineering de partment of Cornell university. Following are the large employment for women: Servants,' 1.1S3.763; agricultural laborers, 663,209; farmers and planter, 3(i7, 7S; dressmakers, 344. 71M; laundresses, 336. 2X2; traders, iC7,14; textile workers, 277,872. There are 3.S3 women clergymen, 1,041 architects, 7S6 dentlstft, 2.1S3 journalists, 1,010 lawyers, 7.387 physician and 14 women veterinary surgeons. The Wisconsin State Labor bureau has been collecting reasons why girls prefer work In factories and stores to household service. Inquiries were sent to 769 persons. Among the answers were these: "If ladles would only give girls better rooms, kinder treatment and warmer beds and let them live independently more girls would do housework;" "I went into the factory be cause 1 wished to be treated like a human being;" "The reason I won't do housework Is because 1 will not be treated like half a slave and always a nobody;" "I love house work, but, like the host of other girls, I refuse to do lt under present conditions;" "None of the girls I know would do housework, because a girl who does It la always looked upon as a kitchen drudge always on duty and seldom treated Justly'' "I am treated better In the factory in every way, and. besides, I am no longer uungeu iv entertain in tne ajicnen or re ceive my friends at the back door, since I can live at hums with my own people." SWEET THINGS IN WAISTS. . MOTHERS.. CRAMER'S Kidney and Liver Cure Should he on the closest terms ofintimacv How often are the children scolded and many times whipped for wetting the bed ? Did it ever occur to you that there might for this unpleasantness ? The doctorin chargeof CrOfTier klSnryr COUl?, ,?ui0kly explain to y that the nrZy .lLCi!!1(l;eVen Could be OUt Of " y V. 7 , be OI a grown person. In ? tefe f ,-rvous temperament it 7: t -y De tne case and during such times they are innocent of any wilful neglect to answer nature's demand, as nature does not xFH1c luc in oi ner wishes. I hey are absolutely r w h-tvtut wcumg inemselves or the bed CRAMER'S Kidney and Liver Cure is unquestionably the only sure and safe remedv on th. . day reaching the case of children (and adults rhiH 1 i71ar?et. tv it for it very pleasant taste, and the Tdea orhumbugeinr lenn,.' rnak,na; nou bltter , order f ood ? w?on Pi?pl! by little one wet the bed or Its clothing, it's kidney treuw's,HfhJfUr Joubt. and Cramer'. Kidney and Uyev Cur. BhoW K glUTll once In order to test it. let bottle &.nd colored book entirely free. We'll esteem it a favor. Cramer Chemical .Co. , ALBANY, N. Y. Genuine, fresh Cramer's Kidney and Liver Cure may be found In two sizes, 50c size for 40c, $1.00 size for 75c, at Schaefer's Cut Price Drug Store, 16th and Chicago Streets, Omaha. All goods delivered free in the city. Open all night. 41 CHICAGO AND RETURN November 30, December I and 2. Leave Burlington Station, Omaha, 7j00 a, m,, 4;00 p, m, or 8 j05 p, m. All good trains and fast Tickets, 1502 Farnam St. D A SKIM OF BEAUTY IS A J0V FOREVER I.T. FELIX 00LRAUD S ORIENTAL CREAM. OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIES rracklM. Tin. rimplta. Huh and Bkla Die ..4 -war ;blmli so SMUtr- saS aAM teMctloa. It ku Mood tb Unl st tt-i r ud Is w hrmlM tut U Ktad. ' Accept urn IcouoMrtctl ot lml Jr Dam. Dr. I 'a. bin Ml to a Uiy ol tha haul tuu (a vatlauq; "As you ladles will use them. I reeom. mnd 'UOURAUB'S CRKAM' as the laast harmful of all th skin preparations." For sale by all druggist and fancy goods deal ers In tha U. 3. tad Europe. FERD. T. HOPKINS. Prop'r. ' XI Great .Wes St.. N. T. Evory Woman ISSM 111 IIS AOlWnH Skoal u wt.4airfa) MARVEL WhlrliBfl 6prsy 5k ELI. I ' M - 1 -M-al CWaolaii. tirnninlaaij rtvaa lull artleulraaa4 djrarl.f.ii. tm- valuaMa la ladiaa. Biavi) (A feoom m Tiuas Bids.. N T. For Hal by iCHAEFER'B CUT RATH DRUG BTORE. Corner Xtita and CWvugo Bu., Omaha. CURED BT WHITE RIBBON REMEDY . No taste. No odor. Can be given In glasf of Water, tea, ur codes without patient! knowledge. White Klbbon Remedy will cur or de stroy tha diseased appatlta for alcofiollc stimulants, whether th patient Is a cun. Brined inebriate a "tippler," social drinker or drunkard. Impossible for anyone to have an appetite tor alcohollo. liquors afltr using White Klbbon Remedy, ladoraed by Members ul W. C. T. C Mrs. Moore, preaa superintendent of Wo man's Christian Temperauo Union, Van tura, California, writes: "I have tet Whit Klbbon Remedy on very obstinate drunkards, and the cures have been many, in many cases th Remedy was alven - c.etly. I cheerfully recommend aod Indorse Whit HlbDon Kemeay. siemboi or our Union are delighted to find so economical treatment to aid us In our temperancs work." lrugglsts or by mall. II. Trial package free by writing Mrs. A. M. Townsend (fot years secretary of a Woman's t'hrtstlai Temperarc Union), 211 Tremout Bt., Ko ton, Mas. Boia 10 umini oy SCHAEFER'S Pbons 7J7. B. W. Cor. Mtk aod Chicago, (tarts AUvi4 fiUkJfi lo jgr part si ait)